Hengersberg to Engelhartszell via Passau

This was a day of two halves.

Part 1 Hengersberg to Passau.

For a cyclist an all you can eat breakfast buffet is a dream. The day before just cycling I burned through 3,500 calories. On top the passive calories (sleeping, sitting, etc). So this morning I tanked up for a shorter ride than the day before 72km vs 104km. To be clear the aim of this ride is not speed, although I now realise that I planned at least two days too many. I have decided to split the difference and go slower so that I arrive one day early not two.

The morning route took in a mixture of the Danube, ponds that were former paths of the river, and the old Danube which is actually the Danube. In some parts for barges and pleasure boats there is the canalised Danube. The weather was not as good as the day before. Grey skies. So the landscapes are not in their best light. But it was still peaceful and serene. I must check why water makes humans happy.

Check out the frog calls in the short video.

I reached Passau about 11:30, bought lunch in a supermarket (Wurstsalat €3.50), and walked though the old town and along the two rivers for an hour.

Part 2. Passau to Engelhartszell

Have I mentioned my bottom yet? No! That's because he, or is it she, is being taken better care of. For example a 15 minute break after 30km. But the most important thing for him, or her, is the smoothness of the road surface and after Passau, so far it is perfect. My bottom's favourite stretch so far.

In addition it just happens to be a truly beautiful stretch of the river. Forrested hills either side of the river and far fewer villages combine to make this feel special. I need to add to my listvof psychological questions, why do lucious green forrests make us happy?

The last part of the ride was special, as I took alone a cyclist ferry across the river to Engelhartszell. I could'nt pay the €3 fare, but the captain wasn't stressed. "Bring me it later". Do you want my Drivers Licence as security? Nah. Special views, special hospitality from the captain. Only strange thing. This is another monastery town. The only open restaurant is a Mexican one. No tourists in it but plenty Austrians. Eat where the locals go is generally good travel advice. In this case, not sure the result is one I can recommend. Not bad, not great.Read more