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Around the world (again)
  • Ezyian
  • Florence McGillivray
  • Ezyian
  • Florence McGillivray

Around the world (again)

Some highlights from last time, some new places. Same team, mum, dad, Lennox, Lola, Nora, Oscar Read more
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  • Trip start
    August 4, 2024
    Around the world (again)
    1

    The 2nd beginning of a world tour

    August 4, 2024 in France ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

    Today, we begin a 2nd world tour. Again, a full year, again home schooling all 4 kids.

    The question we got a lot in recent months was "Why a second time?"

    Well, the trivial answer is we can do it, because I retired and because Flo can teach most subjects. Also, we have few inhibitions because we know how to plan this, and we can do all the details .

    What it's really about, what the real benefits are is quite well explained by an advert starring Ewan McGregor ( Obe One Kanobi in Star Wars ), selling travel for Expedia. He asked in 10 years' time, will you care about the stuff you bought today? More generally, will you think back fondly about gadgets, social media posts, games, perfumes, cars, etc? Or will you cherish most the experiences you shared with others? For us, the answer is clear. (https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=ZMINW5g5KEY)

    It's also for us about experiences that make you think, make you compare your life at home, and the immeasurably different situation and experiences of those that live elsewhere. With the kids, it makes teaching history, politics, geography, and culture real. It's not dry theory. It's lived experience.

    Enough preaching from me. I would be delighted if you followed us over the next 12 months.    Read more

  • Around the world (again)

    Leaving Switzerland

    August 4, 2024 in Switzerland ⋅ ⛅ 26 °C

    Well, due to Turkish airlines, we had little time for photos, and I took none. Beware that from this airline, not all boarding cards are sent by SMS, and check-in ends 90 min before take off. At 90 min, you can't access boarding passes via their app, so we had a mad rush back to the airline desk to get printed boarding cards. On board the service was great.Read more

  • Around the world (again)

    Stopover in Istanbuhl

    August 5, 2024 in Turkey ⋅ ⛅ 27 °C

    There's not much to report. Arrived , managed to find our van ( complicated 😀), hotel, kebabs, bed, breakfast from small shop 12€ everything, as opposed to 48€ in hotel, back to airport for flight to Mongolia 🇲🇳.Read more

  • Around the world (again)

    Where will she be when she is older?

    August 7, 2024 in Mongolia ⋅ ☁️ 28 °C

    Last time we were in the desert, it looked just as you would imagine a dessert. Totally dry with a sandy coloured landscape. But a desert is defined as an area with less than 7cm (2 inches) of rain per year and that means that sometimes it actually rains in some deserts, and recently in the Gobi desert it rained, and wow what a difference! For a short period at least it's green, really green. There are small and not so small plants and bushes that sprout up. At the same time, there are suddenly small streams and ponds that can be 100m across. The latter cause us problems because the dirt track road disappears, and we must drive round on virgin terrain, and just hope we don’t hit a soft spot. (We don’t although a day later we do)
    The White Stuppa cliffs are about 4 hours south of the capital. We stayed in a Ger (aka Yurt), as we did last time, but again with some major differences. Last time, we froze on hard beds and slept poorly. This time, we stayed with a different family, and what a change. Real mattresses, quilts, and other luxuries (e.g., toilet paper 😊 ). After that, we have dinner and here rein a change. The food is mutton soup, or mutton. Well, wait, there is innovation, we are offered camel yoghurt and (separately) camel milk. It tastes as bad as it sounds, bitter and rancid. Let’s hope given that it's probably not pasteurised, that there is not a special surprise in a few hours.
    I should be so hard on the camels, as after dinner, the kids go camel riding. They are “observed” by the granddaughter of our host, who is 1 year old, and I capture the photo of her that you see in this post. I can’t help wondering how different her life will be from her grandparents. This place is still by any standard very remote and underdeveloped, but things have changed in the last 50 years. Motorbikes have (largely) replaced horses for herding sheep and horses. The people live (at least partially) in proper breeze block houses or portacabins. The internet has arrived, even if its still slow, or snails pace. Some have satellite tv. Progress-! Well sort of, but actually the biggest change is tourists. Numbers are still small with only 10 flights from Europe per week. 2000 Europeans across this vast country won’t make much difference, but here and there we see big investments in “Yurt” hotels. To be clear we stay in Yurts that are family run and they actually live in them too. The modest income from low t level of tourism has helped them have a better life, (we pay $8 per person for B&B), but the investments in places with 20-30 yurts, will probably destroy the low density culture they aim to sell. If I had to bet on how the little girls life will be different, it is that she will at 18 be working either a yurt hotel, or she will have given up on country life and moved to the city. Already around the capital genuine culture has been replaced by “experiences” at $50-100 per day for those who visit but don’t have te time to spend 10 days in the desert. I suspect in the Gobi, things will also quite quickly move from indigenous families making supplementary income, but still farming herds of sheep, camels and horses, to experience parks with full service (yurt) hotels. A box to tick, not a thought-provoking, tough trip.
    The Saddest of all those future tourists will miss out on the mutton soup and the mutton and rice 😊, because already the economics of sheep farming are precarious. Pizza Mongolian style, anyone? (Joke based on real-life experience in Bolivia)    Read more

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    Olympic tug of war Mongolia style

    August 9, 2024 in Mongolia ⋅ 🌬 16 °C

    Our car is the 1st white one.

    We had planned to visit a family near the Khongor sand dunes today, but an extremely unusual amount of rain made the road impassable, worse we got stuck halfway, and we didn’t just get stuck once we got stuck multiple times, I think seven in all. Luckily, this happened on a day when 3 car drivers who knew each other decided to travel in convoy.
    On 3 occasions, other cars pulled us out of the wet sand. In return, we pulled out several cars, but sometimes, where we were stuck was too risky for other cars, and so we had to resort to manually pulling the car out. No mean feat when the car weighs two tons, and when Mongolian drivers don’t understand that to get out you need to reduce the revs on the wheels. Often, they started by making the situation worse, and then they would dig the wheels out by hand. Oh, I missed out the part where they would take 30-40 minutes sometimes to decide what to do. In the three cars, we had 11 adults, so 10 plus the driver for getting the cars unstuck. So we had about 5 pulling like a tug of war team and the rest pushing from behind. Somewhat amazingly, we managed to get the cars out each and every time, though sometimes it took several attempts and additional digging.
    So we were lucky that we didn’t have to overnight in the dessert in the car. Only 14 hours to progress about 100km. We learned the next day that many others had not been so lucky. Top subject on Mongolian Twitter and Facebook!    Read more

  • Around the world (again)

    Goat’s milk vodka

    August 10, 2024 in Mongolia ⋅ 🌙 19 °C

    To take account of the impassible roads we have changed the order in which we visit families, so today it’s the time to visit our favourite sheep- and goatherd. Mr Amaraa and his family.
    En route, we do a short trek through the flaming cliffs where the 1st discoveries of dinosaur eggs were ever made. Last time we were here, there was a replica of the find. This time, there was a rather odd blue sculpture that looked nothing like the raptor and its eggs. It's not clear what is happening here.
    Then, after lunch, we headed off for Mr Amaraa, and en route, we climbed a hill for 20 minutes to see ancient rock carvings. Considering that they are outside and uncovered, they are in remarkably good condition. The camels, deer, goats, carts, and humans are all impossible to mistake.
    Another hour through the dessert and we arrive at our destination. We are greeted with the usual hospitality of goats milk tea, and various biscuits, cheeses, and snacks. This time, it's easier to avoid the rather awful lumps of cheese. From there it’s a short jump to all the children “helping” Mrs Amaraa and her daughter to prepare beef dumplings for dinner. Although the kids' handiwork is not as elegant as the locals, all the dumplings taste the same.
    Then out comes the vodka, and not just any vodka, its homemade goats milk vodka. An amount equivalent to 3 shots is poured for me and me alone. So there is no escaping. I try it and it's strangely not too strong, so maybe it's only been once through the still? The taste? Well, imagine drinking vodka and chewing on old mutton at the same time. To cover up, as it turns out temporarily, I offer a beer to our hosts and driver and take one myself. Unsurprisingly, after Flo tastes the vodka, she takes a beer, too. Naively hoping that only one vodka would be offered turned out to be just that, supremely naive. Oh well, we survive with lots of laughs and the beer to rinse out the taste. Oscar was and is a favourite of Mr Amaraa, and he takes up his offer to taste the vodka (just a tiny sip). That is enough to have Oscar contorts his face to make it clear that he is not a fan. There are lots more laughs. The other kids try it too, with the same result.
    After all the kids and Flo have gone to bed, (turns out she was not going to bed, but she missed the nightcap), the other adults move to the kitchen where a real, normal bottle of vodka is opened. The driver gets into bed as he sleeps in the kitchen on the floor. It's good for him, as 4-6 more shots would have been dangerous the next day.
    I eventually wander back to our yurt and marvel in the total darkness at the clear sky flooded with stars and the prominent milky way. It's not a scene that many drunk people can experience.    Read more

  • Around the world (again)

    Khongor: Exponential Growth

    August 11, 2024 in Mongolia ⋅ ☁️ 27 °C

    Photos to be added later

    Last time we were here and had a great time staying with Ulzibat, we were his only guests, and when we climbed the nearby monster sand dunes, we met one other tourist all day.
    This time, Ulzibat has expanded from 4 to 10 Yurts and added facilities like showers and proper toilet. I'm not sure if its down to him or his son and daughter in law who told us they did the building. And at the dunes, this time there wasn’t one other. There were several hundred other tourists. Not just on foot, but with sledges to slide down the dunes. Needless to say, much of the charm has gone, but the kids still loved it.
    Ulzibat himself and his wife were a no-show on the 1st day, and we later learned from him that his wife was in the local clinic with severe stomach problems. He seems a bit stressed by that, but still very happy to welcome us and look at our old photos. We also learn that traditionally the youngest son and their wife live with the parents and work with them, later taking over the work and looking after the parents, and that’s exactly what Ulzi’s son and daughter and law are doing. Their rapid expansion may work for them, but its not without risks as everyone else in the area seems to have the same idea. Some have a much more professional and high-end approach. For example, the yurts have twin glass doors, and they have a large block with showers, bathrooms, and restaurants. Since we are Facebook friends, I guess we can follow how the Ulzibat’s do.    Read more

  • Around the world (again)

    Desert Life : Chives,goats, stars, vodka

    August 12, 2024 in Mongolia ⋅ ☁️ 26 °C

    A blog, even with the aid of photos and videos can’t convey many of the things we experience because we have five senses, not just sight and sound. So I struggle to bring you the experience of today, where we drive for hours through millions of square meters of wild chives. The gentle oniony smell is all pervasive, but it's not unpleasant, and the plants with their purple flowers alongside other plants with white flowers make for beautiful scenery.
    Those huge volumes of chives, don’t go to waste as the driver shows us. We big a full plastic bag of them. Approximately 0.0000000000000001% of the amount available, and later he chops them finely, adds salt, and then stores them in a jar. Then, like a tv show, our hosts produce a jar that they had made a few days earlier. It's quite delicious.
    After the drive, we are back staying a 2nd night with the Amaraa family. They have a treat in store for the kids and a test for Flo, namely milking 40 goats. The towns people of course, are embarrassingly bad at it compared to the locals. There is a correct way and a wrong way to squeeze a teet.
    In the evening Flo and I are sitting peacefully outside the yurt, admiring the endless horizon and the sky packed with scars, when unsurprisingly Mr Amaraa, rolls up with his wife and some friends and of course the goats milk vodka and real vodka. I was again prepared, and we had some beer to wash away the muttony taste of the milk vodka.    Read more

  • Around the world (again)

    "I think they just killed a sheep"

    August 14, 2024 in Mongolia ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    “My brother lives over there”, says our driver as we pass through the northern Gobi. So I suggest we can stop and say hello. “Five minutes”, he says, “No problem” I reply.
    Two and a half hours later, we leave 😊, but it was worth it, if at times rather stressful on the palette and the nose.
    We are, of course, invited into the yurt, and this is a sight to behold and to smell. Not only do 5 people live in here, with everything in one room (sleeping, cooking, storage), but it’s a mini factory for transforming goat and horse milk into yogurt, cheese, vodka and more. It's a pretty wild mix. Super interesting.
    We now all fear what is to follow. They are going to offer us milk and cheese and we can't refuse, can we? Nora gets out of the process by saying she has a bad stomach and goes to pay outside. The rest of us are trapped in this well-meaning expression of hospitality. First, the milk. Oh no, he offers me an enormous bowl filled to the top. Luckily, this is meant for sharing and not just for me. On to the cheese! It's a bit better than usual, but it's still not our taste. In front of us is a huge drum full of milk, what for? It turns out to be a brew that is the basis for Mongolian goats' milk vodka. They put a large pan on the stove and fill it with brew. On top comes a big pot with a hole in the bottom, and on top of the pot is sealed with a big bowl of cold water. It’s a basic still for alcohol. 40 minutes later, the still has worked its magic, and we have two litres of spirts. It’s only 11:30am but still hospitality demands that we drink the brew. Luckily again, it's to share, and we get away with mini sips.
    The hospitality is not over as Nora enters and says “I think they just killed a sheep”. True enough, in our honor, a sheep has met a sad end, and they have started to skin it and butcher it. I thought the kids would be freaked out by the sight, but no, they were actually interested to understand what all the “bits” were.
    At around 12:30, we hear that food is ready, and so we have the freshest mutton with noodles that we have ever had. Quite good, really, even if our appetites are somewhat dulled by the overwhelming smell of cheese, milk, and other foodstuffs.
    When we are in the car, our drivers brother approaches with a gift. Two litres of (goat or horse) milk in a coke bottle. Incredible, even if this poses the problem of how to dispose of it.
    The height of hospitality.    Read more

  • Around the world (again)
    3

    Bye Bye Mongolia

    August 18, 2024 in Mongolia ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    Mongolia is a rollercoaster of emotions and deeper thoughts for me, and I think all of us.

    We love the stunning landscapes from the desert to the mountains, we adore the people we were lucky enough to get to know better, but at the same time we struggle with the traditional foods and mattressless beds, and we see the country, and in particular tourism, developing in away that endangers all that makes the country so uniquely charming.

    The path of development is unstoppable. We can't expect people to live in tents in such a cold country rather than insulated modern houses.
    What maybe can be shaped is the development of tourism, and here I have to be completely hypocritical and schizophrenic. There are some positives already. for example, the museums and pushing tourists yurts back away from the sand dunes. The Gobi remains only accessible by dirt track roads. (Only an expansion of tourism would justify the laying of tarmac). My solution would be to slow down or channel the growth in tourism and maybe make it more expensive. (Today if you self organise, it's one of the cheapest places on earth. 12c for a coffee, $12 for a great meal, incl 2 beers). Tour operator margins are 80% or more, so the big money in tourism is staying in the capital, not the countryside. It's always like that, but in Mongolia, the margins are extreme.

    So today, on our last day in Mongolia, we are exhilarated from the wonderful experience we had here again, but we worry about the future. We are tired, and we look forward to matresses. We look forward to food free of mutton and drinks free of goat milk, but we are very sad to leave, especially since we don't know when and if we can come back, and how the country will develop. What is the future for all those we met and loved?    Read more

  • Around the world (again)
    2

    Forget Taylor Swift tickets...

    August 19, 2024 in China ⋅ 🌧 25 °C

    ... the hottest tickets in the world are for the Forbidden City in Beijing. 80,000 tickets per day, 6 days a week, year in year out. It would take 55 years for everyone in China to visit, so supply is nowhere near demand. Its no wonder then that when 7 days before the visit date, the tickets go on sale that they sell out in seconds. Since most foreign tourists are unaware of this, only very few get hold of a ticket. That was our fate last time, but not this year. We got the hottest tickets for a modest $72 in total (with a little help from an agent and his superfast computer). Eat your heats out, Swifties!

    Was it all worth it?

    Hmmm, it's a bit like visiting Mount Fuji on a hazy day. The splendour and the serenity are a bit difficult to see. In this case, what blocks the view are the other 79,994 visitors.

    Of course we too are part of the mist.

    Just for fun, it's a hot, humid day, and so our energy levels are somewhat low. Nevertheless, we all agree it was worth the visit. The architecture and layout are interesting. The old trees are beautiful ( though there could be more of them ).

    Included here are also photos from the Temple of Heaven that we visited the previous day. This has some very beautiful and serene trees and Asian roses, and far fewer visitors than the forbidden city, but by European standards still a lot. I found myself thinking that humans and ant colonies have a lot in common.    Read more

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    Half way to the roof of the world

    August 23, 2024 in China ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

    We are in XiNing (西宁市), which means Western Tranquillity. With our lot, we don't even dream that it'll be like that. It's on the Eastern edge of the Tibetan plateau, at the modest height of 2250m above sea level, so stopping here for a couple of days will help us to acclimatise a bit for the much higher altitudes in Tibet.

    I would bet that not even 0.1% of people in Europe have heard of this place, even though it's a bustling city of 2.5 million and the biggest city on the plateau, being more than 2.5x the size of Lhasa.

    What makes XiNing interesting is that it's a cultural crossroads. 75% of the people are still han Chinese, but there are substantial numbers of other ethnicities like Hui, Monguor, and Tibetan, so you can see some different faces and people practising budism or islam There is a huge and active budist monastery called Kumbum, on the edge of the city, and a large mosque in the city centre.

    We visited both those places, and the monastery is particularly impressive and very definitely active.

    We arrived here from Beijing on the high-speed train yesterday. 10 hours for 1700km, though the stange mix or green tree filled mountains and multiple big Chinese cities with their innumerable high-rise appartements. Tomorrow, we carry on the journey to Lhasa, a mere 1920km away. It'll take 19 hours, but at least we have 4 soft beds and two seats. It will climb as high as 5072m, but we shouldn't feel it because the train is pressured a bit like an aeroplane.    Read more

  • Around the world (again)
    5

    On top of the roof

    August 26, 2024 in China ⋅ ☀️ 27 °C

    I have quite bad vertigo, so I wouldn't go on the roof at home. However, the rooftop of the world is a different kind of roof . It's the world's highest country with an AVERAGE altitude of 4500m above sea level. Thar means elevated risk of altitude sickness and even worse problems with oxygen deficiency. We should know last time we evacuated Flo from Everest Base Camp.

    Even walking here takes a lot more effort than usual, and climbing long sets of stairs to the Potala can't be done without frequent rests. Hence, the photo of me with my head in my hands.

    Why go through all this self-inflicted torture? The answer is easy. Tibet is quite unique. Of course, a lot of the monasteries disappeared, or the number of monks has diminished, but there's still plenty left of the heritage, and monks are still very visible and quite numerous .

    On our first full day, we visited the Potala, and it was every bit as grandiose as Flo, and I remembered it. The kids loved it and had plenty of questions for our guide, Tashi.    Read more

  • Around the world (again)

    Tradition and Transformation in Tibet

    August 27, 2024 in China ⋅ ⛅ 5 °C

    On the long 22-hour journey from Xining to Lhasa, I read on the Chinese Tourist Boards site that since the railway line opened in 2006, the income of Tibetan farmers had quadrupled. I thought that's pretty far-fetched given how dry and dusty the place is. Well, my scepticism was definitely misplaced even if 4x is a stretch. The countryside has been totally transformed with irrigation schemes . Gone are the bare dusty fields, having been replaced by fields of (mainly) barley, vegetable, and fruit growing in tunnels, and 100s of millions of new trees, especially eucalyptus.

    I had thought that there would have been a lot of immigration from China, but the ethnic hans are currently only 5%, and Tibetans still make up 95% of the population.

    Last time we were here, the roads were a mix of the good bad and the ugly, now there are good roads almost everywhere, and even a motorway and high speed railway between the two main cities.

    Transformations that have to be seen to be believed.

    Of course, in the transformationen there are some parts that Tibet, would have been better off without ( faceless high rises in Lhasa), but at least Unesco was listened to and that ugly part is away from traditional areas.
    As far as I can tell, the transformation has not had a major negative impact on local traditions and culture.
    The number of monasteries and monks will never return to the levels prior to the cultural revolution, but the remaining religious sites have been renovated, and there are plenty of young monks. (Not something we can claim in Europe).
    I'm not going to get into politics, but my impression is that Tibetans are benefiting/enjoying/on board with the transformation. Last night, we watched people from school age to grandmas,dancing traditional Tibetan style to modern local music in a park. Can't remember anyone dancing the highland fling in a Dundee park at 9 pm!

     In the West, we pushed for change in many places (Iraq, Libya, Syria, etc) and created huge messes. In my view, be careful what you wish for, and in this case, my bet is Tibetans don't want chaos. They may want more freedom of expression, but not at any price. Except for political freedom, almost every measure of quality of life has improved significantly.

    There is no going back to a theocracy, which itself restricted political and other freedoms.    Read more

  • Around the world (again)
    211

    Suckers for punishment...

    September 1, 2024 in China ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    … and we’d gladly do it all again.
    The list of ailments, impediments,and tribulations that we had on the rooftop of the world is long. It’s not as if we had no warning, since Flo and I have been here before, and weirdly, a pattern repeated itself. I was impacted by the high altitude at the start, and maybe because I had a bad stomach from the previous stop, and Flo was more impacted in the last days when we went up to and slept at 4500-5500m (15,000- 18,000 ft). Carbon copies of our last visit in Tibet. Same story in Peru near Lake Titicaca, and it was the same story in Bolivia at Uyuni. This time we had prepared! Acclimatisation for 2 days at 2200m, slow ascent in the train over nearly a day to 3,600m, 3 nights at that alititude. Flo took the prophylaxis drug Diamox, but it's all to no avail (or maybe it would have been worse).
    Despite this on our last full day, we did not shy away from visiting Lake Namtso. A beautiful salt lake with a view of 7000m mountains good views across the vast open plains. We had planned a little hike along the lake shore, but after taking some photos of Yaks with the kids, we paused for an hours rest, with local teas, and then did the rest of the (planned) hike, in a double decker red London bus, which plays Chinese music all the time. Rather strange type of Shuttle bus for the location, but my lot (me excepted) had exceptional uninterrupted views from the front of the top-deck.
    After another shuttle (this time electric) took us back to our mini-bus, we headed for Lhasa, and we all expected to feel better by descending 900m, and that’s just what happened. Our appetites all came back, and we were not afraid to order what we could smell each day in our hotel, but didn’t have the courage, fearing consequences, to order. “Six curries, nan, and rice!”. Well nearly normal, but the customary beer, although available, was a step to far for our cautious minds.    Read more

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    Who doesn't love Pandas?

    Sep 2–6, 2024 in China ⋅ 🌙 29 °C

    When I was a little boy, my absolute favourite activity was visiting Edinburgh Zoo. I loved the tigers, penguins, and so on. It was a dream place, but it was missing something: a panda bear. When I went on my 1st school trip (age 11) to London, I hoped I would see one there, but the teachers didn't take us to the zoo, where there was at least 1 panda.

    And so, through life, by mistake or design, I never got to see a real live panda.

    I was even here in Chengdu for a couple of days in 2007, but it failed to register then that I was in the middle of panda lover heaven, and so I left not even knowing what I had missed.

    Not this time!

    For the ill informed, the airport now has not too subtle hints of the big attractions here . (Statues, loads of ads, and a huge variety of souvenirs). The kids are photographed at the welcome sculpture.

    Today, we went to see the animals themselves!

    Not the best time of year we heard, as they prefer temperatures less than 25C, (it's 35+), "so go early," which we duly did. Up at 6 am.

    We weren't the only ones. As is custom in China, even before opening at 7am, there is a football crowd like queue. The only surprise is that it's 99% adults. (School day ;) ). Otherwise, who knows how big the queue would be?

    Luckily, the park is very large. We end up walking 12km. And that means after a while the crowds disperse quite a lot

    The place is ostensibly for breeding, and true enough, we see many less than 1 year old, though not any cute tiny ones.

    I didn't count, but maybe we saw 25-30 pandas. Strangely, I wasn't that happy or excited . I wasn't fulfilled . I'm not sure why, and Flo was also underwhelmed. Maybe we simply recognise the conflicting priorities of breeding and having the animals in captivity.

    Needless to say, all the kids, unburdened by such thoughts, had a wonderful and very memorable experience    Read more

  • Around the world (again)
    22

    Too good to be True?

    September 6, 2024 in China ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    A friend was once on a human rights visit to inspect Zimbabwe. She came back with a pretty glowing report. I lampooned her that she had been hoodwinked, and I teased her by calling her Robert's best friend.

    On leaving China, I'm thinking I might be in her shoes. Much about this country is worthy of hyperbole. The amazing infrastructure is well known outside the country. Its world leading industrial power in solar and electric cars. Lifting 500m people out of poverty in less than 20 years, and so on.

    And you can add that life here doesn't at all feel like it's sometimes portrayed on US or European tv. The towns are lively, bustling places. People have a good laugh. They smile a lot. They approach us constantly, i.e., they are not at all afraid to interact with foriegners . They eat, drink and party. Life is better for this generation, and they believe in the future.

    There are struggles, of course. For example, there is fierce competition for the best university places and jobs. But some things we struggle with seem less stressful here. The upside of a construction bubble bursting is that rents now fall due to high vacancy rates. Take that alongside incredibly low food and drink prices, and it's likely young adults are not so stressed as Europeans or Americans by the cost of living. ( A good meal in a restaurant costs $4, a good lunch $2-3. A metro ticket is $0.40).

    There is no political freedom, but unlike almost all other non democracies, China does deliver for its people, and economically, they are free to do as they please.

    Did I miss something? Was I hoodwinked?

    Photos of Pandas in the Bifengxia valley, near Ya'an, and Urumqui, an Ughyr city of 4 million people in remote north western China. "Near" to the borders of Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan. It took a 3 hour flight to get here. The distances are vast (2900km by road from Chengdu). On the flight in, we have amazing views of high snow-capped himalayan mountains. Urumqui is the one place we see much heavier security. As far as I know, it's the only Muslim area in China, and the influence of the neighbouring Stans is unmistakable. Nevertheless, the bazaar is lively and bustling    Read more

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    🇰🇬Kyrgyzstan: A room with a view

    September 9, 2024 in Kyrgyzstan ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    The ladies of Edwardian England in E.M Foster's novel may have had a good view of Florence, but Florence and I have a more spectacular view. It's from the mother of a friend's house where we are staying in Bishkek. Photos don't do justice to the 7000m high mountains that tower over the city.

    This is the 1st time that we have stayed with relatives of friends. We get a very hearty welcome and an even heartier meal in a local restaurant. Our host orders so much food that we need FIVE doggy bags for the food left over.

    The hospitality continued back home with snacks of local cheese and beer. 1st time that I have a beer from a plastic bottle, but why not it tastes great.    Read more

  • Around the world (again)

    On the beach in the Himalayas

    September 12, 2024 in Kyrgyzstan ⋅ ☀️ 15 °C

    We left Flo's friends house this morning. Like any city, leaving in the rush hour took a bit of time, but in Bishkek, you have the compensation of beautiful views of the Himalayas. They literally tower over the city.

    We were headed for Lake Issyk Kul, a summer favourite with the Kyrgz and other central Asians. It feels pretty unique, a sandy beach with stunning views of the Himalayas. The lake itself is at an altitude of 1630m.

    The kids lap it up and are quickly in the water and building sand castles.

    Flo takes a well-earned rest whilst they play.    Read more

  • Around the world (again)

    Karakol: Sandstone Cliffs @2200m

    September 15, 2024 in Kyrgyzstan ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    We've been a bit lazy most days in the last 6 weeks, sometimes it was too hot, sometimes the air was too thin, and often one or other of us was just not up to it for health reasons. But today, we changed the pace.

    Our driver/guide wanted us to go to "Sky Park", at least that's what Google Translate said, but we were a bit sceptical because he couldn't show us any online photos. I suspected it was some kind of park with rides, so I proposed to go to a hiking area that I had seen on the map, called "Bear Cliff." Only afterwards did it occur to me that there are bears in this region, but we unfortunately/ luckily didn't see any.

    It turned out my idea was pretty damn good. It is a beautiful area, and a great place for a walk. The lower area comprises of sandstone cliffs and mountain streams, and the upper area is dominated by snow capped Himalayan mountains. In September, the temperature is perfect for walking. The whole area has an idyllic charm.

    On the way there and back, we see local farmers' children herding cattle on horseback. Also, we see many in the fields doing the potato harvest by hand and the wheat harvest without a combined harvester. It's a bit like 1950s Europe. The fields are too small for the efficient use of modern farm machinery. They could be very much larger, but I suspect some tradition of how land us inherited is holding modernisation back. It's odd to see such primitive methods in a country that's otherwise quite modern.

    After this great day at 1530, the driver again suggests "Sky Park," so we give in. Turns out it's actually called "Ski Paradise." Sky, ski easy to mix up 😉. It's a luxury ski resort for Russians and Kazachs. Of course, in summer, nobody is there, but it does offer stunning views, even if in late afternoon the highest peaks are in the clouds.    Read more

  • Around the world (again)
    4

    Choose your poison

    September 20, 2024 in Kyrgyzstan ⋅ ☀️ 27 °C

    We are now in Kyrgyzstan, heading slowly towards Uzbekistan. In the past we have been in other central Asian countries such as Mongolia, Nepal, Bhutan, and Kazakhstan. Not forgetting Tibet. What they all have in common is that their history, development, and military allegiances are very heavily shaped by one of three regional superpowers, namely China, Russia, and India.

    Of course, Tibet is now ( irrevocably) integrated into China. Anyone who thinks otherwise is dreaming. But the others are almost as deeply intwined with a superpower. If you observe that, then it's not a surprise that two weeks ago, Putin was in Mongolia as a guest of honour. There and here, the Russian alphabet/language has replaced the local language.

    India may be more subtle than the other superpowers, but Bhutan is effectively an Indian protercate. If you visit, don't be surprised to see Indian troops.

    Which one should smaller countries cosy up to ? It's too late for that question since unless Russia collapses, the spheres of influence are pretty much frozen. But maybe I'm wrong. Nearby in SE Asia, Laos and Cambodia happily opened the door to massive public and private investment from China. Of course, that will not be for free. The only major exception in Central and SE Asia would appear to be Vietnam. But can they resist modern railway infrastructure and roads on offer for much longer?

    Here in Kyrgyzstan, after being 98% dependent on Russia in the Soviet era, the country has diversified its partnerships, but the Russian language is more prominent than Kyrgz in the cities. This seems to be partly driven by Russian tech (apps), Russian media output (TV and films), and Russian brands (e.g. restaurant chains). Maybe the Chinese can push their feet in the door economically, but culturally, that is difficult to imagine.

    We spent the last few days starting at the SW of Lake Issyk Kul going for a hike in the bizarre sandstone and clay mountains, then we were in the Himalayas in Tash Rabatt at about 3500m. There is no phone, no Internet, and a long walk to the outside toilet. The lack of the phone wasn't a hardship, but the toilet location was because I had Dehli belly. Outside in full moon, it was beautiful at 1am, 3am, 5am, and 6am, and the frosty ground didn't bother me, but boy, was that an uncomfortable and scary walk.

    From there, we stayed a couple of days in Naryn so that Lennox could download lessons, and the kids had online lessons. The Dehli belly returned, and so I was delighted to have an en suite loo.

    For the route that followed from Naryn to the Uzbekistan border area, we have to say how pissed we are at Google, Rome2Rio, and the Kyrgyzstan online chat line. All three told us there was a direct route, taking 7.5 hours. Warning to others: the route does not exist! At least we found that out pretty quickly, so we had an 11-hour journey that cost $250, not $80. Mind you, where can you get a 7 seater ride for anything like that price?
    Our driver was clearly a formula 1 fan. He was pretty skilled, but in the last half hour, we worried he was getting tired, and the traffic was the heaviest it had been all day. My Dehli belly was better, so no shitting pants, but genuinely worrying.

    Since you can read this, it's clear we made it to Jalal-Abad. No, not that Jalal-Abad (Afghanistan) but instead the Taliban free border town in Kyrgyzstan.    Read more

  • Around the world (again)

    Osh to Andijan

    September 27, 2024 in Uzbekistan ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    Osh is the one on the Kyrgyzstan side of the border with Uzbekistan . Andijon is on the other side about 70km away.

    We stayed in Osh for 4 nights, largely because we were all exhausted, tired, or a bit sick.

    The rest worked more or less, except that on the day before last, I had food poisoning again. That would be the 7th or 8th time! It's not serious, but it does lead to fatigue.

    On the last day in Osh, we walked up and down the mountain Suliman Too. It is in the city and it's not very high, 1300m ?. It has a lot of historical significance as the site of a bronze age settlement, the foundations of which are still there, and as a site of pilgrimage and healing for muslims on the silk road. There is a rather odd museum, with an ultramodern facade and inside a cave with exhibits that have seen better days.

    Later, we went to the market, which was not that interesting. In the evening we had yet again kebabs, largely because >90% of restaurants are kebabs shops.

    The next day, we took a public bus to Andijan . The Matrushka bus leaves when it's full, so the 1st step is 45 minutes waiting for that. Then, it is about an hour to cross both border posts before we eventually reach our destination.

    Since we have a very early train, we take it easy, watch a film, then go off to an early bed.    Read more

  • Around the world (again)
    1

    Simply the best in Asia

    September 28, 2024 in Uzbekistan ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

    Registan Square in Samarkand, Uzbekistan is undoubtedly the most stunning place in Central Asia, and it could go 15 rounds with the Taj Mahal for the best in all of Asia or the world championship.

    Its relaive remoteness means that there are only a small number of people who will ever come here, compared to the Taj, St Peters, Venice, or Il Duoumo di Milano. That only adds to its attraction because it's accessible and not crowded. Indeed, we meet no less than 3 groups of people here that we met as far away as Tash Rabatt in Kyrgyzstan. There is not much crowded to get lost in.

    What lies below the surface here is a rich history that most Westerners are entirely ignorant of. These buildings are not just facades. They are fully fledged buildings for study and accommodation with large internal courtyards, that in the past, at the time they were built housed some of the world's leading scholars on subjects such as maths and astronomy.

    The three madrasas ( religious colleges ) were built in very different times from the 1400s to the 1700s, but they harmonise perfectly.

    We, and particularly I*, got lucky to visit on a beautiful sunny day, with a clear sky at dusk. Such weather just adds the finishing touch to the beauty.

    * On a previous visit, I had a bad stomach , and in the last few weeks, I had that a lot.But not today! So, Murphy's law is not infallible 😀.    Read more

  • Around the world (again)

    Drama Queen - On a set fit for Aida

    October 1, 2024 in Uzbekistan ⋅ ☁️ 24 °C

    Don't panic, don't panic, but maybe Lola has broken her arm. Is a short summary of a call from Flo less than 2 hours before we have to leave Samarkand. I had decided to sit outside Registan Square, whilst Flo, Lola, Oscar, and Nora Skye went inside.

    Then, there's a bit of the usual confusion when there's an accident. "We are coming out of a special exit on the right...you can see me on Google Maps. So I tried to join them, they are 600m away , but of course they were moving.

    Luckily for all of us, they were guided and helped by the tourist police, who took Lola and her entourage to a clinic, then to a hospital, and then somewhat unbelievably to the train station. All in about 75 minutes, i.e. in time to catch the last train with enough seats for all of us.

    Meanwhile, I had set a plan B in motion . I walked back to the hotel, where Lennox was, and together we crammed ourselves and 8 bags piled high into a small taxi and went to the station. I booked 2 of the last 4 tickets for Flo and Lola on the slow late train , which I then cancelled when I saw on Maps that to my surprise, they had made it on time.

    And what about the central character? Well, the initial opinion was that the arm was broken based on how much pain she was in, but thankfully the X-ray didn't show any break, hairline fracture, or chipping. Exactly why it was so painful is unclear. If needs be, we shall have it examined the day after tomorrow in Singapore.

    I shouldn't forget the last part of the dash to the train station. I got a call that I should come to the entrance to meet the police. So I dutifully went, thinking I would have to sign something. But no, nothing to sign. Instead, the policeman hands me the X-ray and the prescription for pain relief because " you are the head of the family". He explains the details to me, whilst a baffled Flo looks on. She describes this as a "significant cultural difference." 😂

    It was worth noting that despite the cultural difference, the police were a fantastic help, doing lots of driving, skipping queues at the hospital and all the while being calm and reassuring.

    I should also mention that today was haircut day for all of us with short hair, Flo included. You don't need smalltalk, or even to speak, just a photo of a recent haircut. In each country the result is similar, but the means is different. In this case the haircut is washed after, facing into the sink. All this fun for a total of $15.60, for all of us.

    Finally I did not forget about Aida. I saw it once at the open air Arena in Verona. Drama in a beautiful place, just like us today, but unlike Aida it looks like a good ending for Lola.    Read more

  • Around the world (again)

    An orgy of flights

    October 4, 2024 in Singapore ⋅ ☁️ 30 °C

    Earlier in the year, I delegated the planning for Indonesia to Flo and Lennox. Maybe a mistake on several fronts. 1st, it turns out that you remind the delegates that flights are limited from Uzbekistan and that prices invariably rise, that you make yourself the bad guy. But more importantly, they come up with wishes that are difficult to fulfil on our budget. Flo showed me some pictures that she liked. Where is that? Raja Ampat? So I check out costs. Whoa! $1000 each to get there and a similar amount per person per night. So I give the bad news and get a grumpy response. OK, I'll see if there is another way. Turns out there is. It's not simple, but actually faster than the expensive route. ( The flight search engines exclude options where you switch airlines and stay overnight en route). Then I did a bit of research on accommodation, and it turns out you can get a full board home stay for $30 per person per day.

    So we have a plan!

    The route is Tashkent, Delhi, Singapore, Manado, Sorong, and then a ferry and a long boat. Two stopovers. 1st two nights in Singapore and then one night in Manado. 4 flights, two boats. Cost $450, so not cheap but ok.

    The former is a great stop because Flo has a couple of friends who live there. We met Lilly for a walk around the Marina and lunch in a food hall. The Marina is unrecognisable compared to my 15 year old memories. Brash modern skyscrapers all around. Some interesting designs.

    Later, we meet Laurent and his wife and kids, who had visited us in Geneva last summer.    Read more

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