Pontedeume to Betanzos

We got off to a cracking start with an extravagant breakfast of fresh orange juice, toast, two types of jam, a huge croissant, some cheese and finally several slices of cake! Not the usual black coffee and vamos.

Even though our lodgings gave us a head start it was still a good slog out of Pontedeume. We met up with two American pilgrims and casual conversation had the miles slipping by. So much so that we completely missed the 3km detour to Igrexa San Miguel de Breamo. Next time ( perhaps )

For the first time we had extended walking on pleasant earth paths through open woodland. Eventually a steep descent brought us down to Ponte Baxoi and a welcome cold drink at a great cafe. From here we skirted the golf course on the outskirts of Mino then over a 14 century bridge commissioned by Fernán Pérez de Andrade 'The Good'.

We then descended fairly uneventfully into Mino where we left the Americans. Mino was a busy town and by now the sun had risen along with the temperature. Now the long slog began

First up alongside the Mino estuary to the oddly named Ponte de Porco. As you'll see from the picture, there was a statue of a pig. We rambled along more tarmac until we came to the medieval Ponte Lambre.

Then we went up. And up. And up.

I ran out of water but begged some from an elderly chap doing what elderly chaps do best. Messing about in a shed. He said it came from high in the mountains and I could believe him. Cold and sweet.

On we trudged looking for shade under anything we could find.

At last we arrived at Igrexa San Martin de Tiobre. A "beautiful 12th century romanesque church with exquisite corbels, tympanum and motifs". It was shut.

Just to add to the misery, we now started to plummet down towards Betanzos. We had a chance for a break when we found the church of Nsa. Sra. Do Camiño open. A quiet and cool spot to recollect ourselves before the bustle of Bezantos. An elderly lady began the ascent towards the church. She looked every inch the Spanish widow, all in black with a medal of St. Benedict around her neck.

Arriving we crossed the Río Mandeo using the handsome medieval bridge Puente Viejo and into the town via an arched gate. Then we went up again. In fact the whole of Betanzos seems to be built on a thimble with roads pouring down from it.

I was struggling by now and paused to gather myself. Hearing a familiar voice to my left I turned and found Christof tackling a platter of pulpo. At this point we realised we were outside our rooms for the evening. A quick check in and we were sat with our fellow pilgrim dining on a Betanzos tortilla. All runny and gooey, we'd been told in Pazo da Merced that they were some of the best in Spain. I'd not argue with that.

We had a choice of churches for Mass. The Igrexa San Francisco was at 19:30 but the Igrexa de Santa María do Azouge pipped them to the post with an advertised time of 19:00. There was also the prospect of a pilgrims blessing. That swung it.

However, come 19:00, we kicked off with Exposition of the Blessed Sacrament. Followed by Benediction. Followed by a continuation of a novena to Our Lady of Fatima. Then Mass. After Mass we had a continuation of a novena to San Roque. Finally we were called forward for a pilgrims blessing. Just to add to the Catholic element of all this, there was a collection. A couple of hours kneeling on hard wooden kneelers. Ah well.

Back to the rooms for an early night. The Southward march continues tomorrow.Read more