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Camino Portuguese 2025
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Camino Portuguese 2025

A 49-day adventure by Terri's Trails Read more
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  • Trip start
    April 24, 2025
    Terri's TrailsCamino Portuguese 2025Traveler
    12

    Layover in Dublin

    April 23 in Ireland ⋅ 🌬 52 °F

    I arrived at the Dublin Airport around noon for a long layover. My Irish Camino forum friend Nuala picked me up at the airport, and we went to lunch and a lovely walk along the Irish coast. It was a great way to acclimate to my new time zone before my final flight to Lisbon.Read more

  • Terri's TrailsCamino Portuguese 2025Traveler
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    1111

    First day in Lisbon

    April 24 in Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 68 °F

    After approximately 24 hours of travel I arrived by Uber to my hotel around 10:30 pm, ready to hit the sack.

    My room can best be described as a shoe box with ensuite. No much room to maneuver, but the bed is comfortable and the location is quiet.

    Showering is quite a challenge in such a tiny shower. Every time I move I bump the controls with my elbow or bum, changing the temperature to cold or scalding! I won't attempt to wash my hair.

    Although I was so tired it took me a while to fall asleep, but I slept for a long time, not waking up until after 11 am. Then I set off to wander around. My first stop was the Decathlon store, then next door to El Corte Inglés department store. It's such a huge store that I had trouble finding the exit - I could have spent hours wandering around somewhat lost.

    Then it was time to go to the newly opened Pilgrim Office where I got my credential, maps, and other useful information.

    The last time I was in Lisbon I watched as a tour bus drove right into the river. It wasn't an accident, it was an amphibious vehicle. I thought that then that it looked like a lot of fun, and that I should try it if I ever got back to Lisbon. So I bought a ticket and took a Bolt (similar to Uber) to the HippoTour meeting point.

    The land part of the tour was a bit ho-hum, but the tour guide on board was quite entertaining. The fun part was when we entered the river. It was a beautiful day, and a wonderful vantage point for the Belem Tower and other landmarks.

    I walked back to the central tourist area and had dinner at the Time Out Market, a kind of large indoor food court.    Read more

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    211113

    Sintra

    April 25 in Portugal ⋅ 🌬 59 °F

    I'd heard so much about Sintra that I booked four nights in Lisbon so that I'd have plenty of time to enjoy it. However, I decided not to book a ticket for the Pena Palace (the most popular place to see in Sintra) before I left home because I wasn't sure how early I'd want to wake up. It turns out that my body wanted to sleep until ten. 😊

    So I actually waited until I was on the train to Sintra to buy my ticket for a 5:00 slot. I bought a ticket for the Quinta da Regaleira for 2pm. Both timings worked out perfectly, as I had plenty of time to walk to both places, though the walk from Quinta da Regaleira to the Pena Palace was more of a hike, with about 850 ft of elevation gain over 1.7 miles. But it was a beautiful hike on wooded paths.

    The main attraction of the Quinta da Regaleira is called the Initiation Well, but it turns out that it's not a well at all. There seem to be a number of stories about its purpose, one of which is that it was part of initiation rites for the Knights Templar. More information here: https://www.quintadaregaleiratickets.com/initia…
    Whatever its original purpose, it was fascinating to descend down its steps.

    The Pena Palace was actually less interesting, but because of where it sits there are wonderful views.    Read more

  • Terri's TrailsCamino Portuguese 2025Traveler
    114Iberian Lynx by Bordalo IIFrog by Bordalo II

    Head start on Camino day one

    April 26 in Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 59 °F

    I decided to walk the 8 km from Lisbon and return by metro to my hotel before I "officially" start my Camino tomorrow.

    On the way I visited the National Tile Museum.

    After the Tile Museum I was mostly walking through a kind of warehouse district, but discovered an area converted to house some small galleries and eateries.

    I ended my walk at the Parque das Nações before heading back to the hotel.

    For dinner I discovered a great restaurant right across the street from my hotel, which is located somewhat away from the central tourist areas of Lisbon. When I entered at about 6:15 all the tables had "reserved" signs on them, but I was early enough that they could seat me before those with reservations arrived. It was a Mexican restaurant with a Portuguese flair. Unfortunately, I forgot to take pictures of all the food, but I started with a shrimp tostsdita with avocado, then had yummy tortilla soup, a beef taco, and chocolate mousse with bits of crunchy meringue for dessert.    Read more

  • Terri's TrailsCamino Portuguese 2025Traveler

    Camino Day One

    April 27 in Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 63 °F

    Parque das Nações to Alverca do Ribatejo ~19 km/12 miles

    The walk out of Lisbon is now mostly on a boardwalk beside the Tejo River.

    It was a pleasant warm day, and I put my umbrella to good use against the sun.

    My room for the night was in a nice pensión type place, and there was a bar/restaurant in the same building where I had both lunch and dinner. I didn't have an ensuite bathroom, but the bathroom down the hall was modern and spacious with a GREAT shower, which I really appreciated after the tiny shower at the hotel in Lisbon.    Read more

  • Terri's TrailsCamino Portuguese 2025Traveler
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    2The children's bathroom at the school with tiny toilets!My room1

    Camino Day Two

    April 28 in Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 55 °F

    Alverca to Azambuja ~ 28 km/17.5 miles

    As I was leaving at 7 am another pilgrim was just walking out the door - I learned that he was Ğirts from Latvia. We walked together all day to Azambuja. The first part of the walk was on a busy road, then it was fairly pleasant until Vila Franca de Xira where we had breakfast. The latter part of the walk was a long hot slog, mostly beside the train tracks. We had to take stairs to cross over the tracks three times, which was pretty much the only "uphill" walking we did.

    I didn't have anything booked in Azambuja because there's an albergue there with 16 beds that doesn't accept reservations. I didn't think that it would be too busy because we hadn't seen anybody else walking except for a couple from New Zealand who had stopped for a break. So I was quite surprised when I arrived at the albergue a half an hour before their opening time of 3:00 to find that all of the lower bunk beds had already been taken and I would have to take a top bunk bed. But the biggest surprise was when the hospitalero asked me if I knew about the problem with the electricity. I said I didn't know and he said there is no electricity here. I responded that maybe I should go to a hotel instead, and he said no, there is NO electricity anywhere in Portugal and that's when I found out that there was a massive power outage in Portugal, Spain, France, and Italy.

    Since their hot water system was electric that meant a cold shower. Being hot and sweaty that was better than no shower at all. I had resigned myself to sleeping in the top bunk when a couple came in and were told that there were no beds left but there was an overflow area at a preschool. When I heard that I asked if I could possibly go with them to the school. A young Dutch woman named Kelly also wanted to go to the school. It turned out that the school was a much nicer place to stay than the albergue. They brought out nice mattresses for us to put on the floor to sleep on. There was a kitchen, a bathroom and two showers with hot water because they used gas. Of course there was still no electricity but it was a much more comfortable space to be in than the albergue. I even sort of had room to myself! We found out that there was a grocery store in town that was open because they had generator so we all walked to there. We bought a whole chicken to share and some side dishes plus some fruit and other things to take with us the next day.

    Then around 8:30 the power came back on! I slept very well, especially knowing that the power had been restored.    Read more

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    Camino Day 3

    April 29 in Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 64 °F

    Azambuja to Porto de Muge
    ~17 km/10.5 miles

    A much shorter day today. I walked with Kelly from the Netherlands. We had both booked Quinta da Burra in Porto de Muge.

    It was a much cooler day, with the possibility of rain, which fortunately didn't start until we were at our destination.

    Quinta da Burra is a lovely old home, and we had a private room and bath to ourselves. We had been advised to buy food in the prior town for dinner, so we got some frozen meals and other things.

    Later on a couple from Idaho, Todd and Kate arrived. They wandered next door to a winery, and came back with several bottles of wine.

    We all enjoyed our grocery store dinners with the local wine.

    Apparently I didn't take many pictures today!    Read more

  • Terri's TrailsCamino Portuguese 2025Traveler
    12Pilgrim SwingKelly on the Pilgrim Swing3There were tons of snails on the trailReally cool mosaic in Santarém. You can only see the faces well from a distance or through a cameraMural when entering Vale de FigueiraMy room3BBQ pizza for dinner, and I saved half for breakfast

    Camino Day Four

    April 30 in Portugal ⋅ 🌧 55 °F

    Porto de Muge to Vale de Figueira
    ~27.5 km/17 miles

    A little longer day today, but it was mostly overcast and cooler - perfect for walking.

    We had a great breakfast at Quinta da Burra before setting out.

    Kelly and I walked together as far as Santarém where she split off to walk to Fátima, but not until we had a good lunch in a tiny café.

    Most of the day was spent walking amongst vineyards and green fields, then we had the climb to Santarém, which was the first real elevation change on this route. Along the way we saw a "Pilgrim Swing."

    I had booked a room at Casa das Laranjeiras, which was a very nice "Alojamento Local." The owner had texted me the code to the keybox and gave me my room number the night before, so I was able to enter as soon as I got there. Other than two cleaning women I never saw anyone else, and the owner asked me to put the payment in the night table drawer. It was nice and quiet, so I had a good night's sleep. 😴    Read more

  • Terri's TrailsCamino Portuguese 2025Traveler
    It was a pain walking on these tractor tracks11This area is know for equestrian tourismStatue Nobel prize winning author José Saramago in Azinhaga1

    Camino Day Five

    May 1 in Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 70 °F

    Vale de Figueira to Vila Nova da Barquinha
    ~28.5km/17.7 miles

    The day started out cool and misty. I ate some of my leftover pizza before starting out. Today's walk was once again through an agricultural area, this time with many newly rolled and planted fields.

    The first town I came to was Azinhaga, the birthplace of Nobel Prize winning author José Saramago.

    Since today is the Labor Day holiday the road between Azinhaga and Golegã wasn't nearly as busy as it was when I walked it during rush hour traffic in 2022. About halfway along this stretch I met Chris from Massachusetts, who was staying at the same place as me in Vila Nova da Barquinha.

    This area is known for its equestrian tourism and festivals. Those that I saw reminded me of the model horses that young girls play with.

    I had planned to meet Kathy, another forum member who lives here who had invited me to dinner. She and her partner live just a few blocks from our guest house. When I stopped by before checking in I told her that I had been walking with another woman and she graciously she invited Chris to dinner too. It was nice to have a home cooked meal and a tour of their property and to hear their plans for it.    Read more

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    Camino Day 6

    May 2 in Portugal ⋅ 🌧 57 °F

    Vila Nova da Barquinha to Tomar
    ~21.5 km/13.4 miles

    I walked with Chris from Massachusetts today. We decided to start at 8am since we didn't have a particularly long day.

    We encountered our first real hills not long after leaving Vila Nova da Barquinha as the trail went through a eucalyptus forest.

    Rain was predicted, so I donned my rain gear, but we only had a couple of rain "drills" when it seemed like it was going to really rain, but it only lasted a couple of minutes.

    We reached Tomar by lunchtime and checked into our accommodations. I stayed in the same decripit hotel as in 2022. I doubt that anything has been updated in the last half century. But it's in a great location at a good price, and has a comfortable bed, which I'm sure isn't 50 years old.

    Another thing that was the same thus year as in 2022 was being barked at by the same dog. But this time he wasn't wearing the same ridiculous onesie outfit.

    After a shower and laundry I met Chris to go see the Convento de Cristo. Her feet were really bothering her so I got an Uber to take us up the hill, which ended up being a good move because the skies opened up just moments after I requested the ride and the rain came down in buckets.

    More on the Convento in the next post.    Read more

  • Terri's TrailsCamino Portuguese 2025Traveler
    3211Oratory of the Templar Rotunda11Check out the buckle on this belt!One of the corridors of monks' cells1

    Convento de Cristo

    May 2 in Portugal ⋅ 🌧 66 °F

    The Convento de Cristo is a massive complex of interconnected buildings that forms quite a maze! We were unsure of where we had been and if we had seen everything.

    Construction began in the 12th century by the Knights Templar and continued for hundreds of years.

    Read more here: https://whc.unesco.org/en/list/265/    Read more

  • Terri's TrailsCamino Portuguese 2025Traveler
    2Breakfast
    I haven't seen one of these cloth towel things in years!Only two of ten beds occupied. 😊Dinner

    Camino Day Seven

    May 3 in Portugal ⋅ 🌧 57 °F

    Tomar to Calvinos
    ~11 km/6.8 miles

    This was a short, semi-rest day. I didn't worry about waking up early because I only had a short distance to cover.

    Just as I was about to eat breakfast around 9:00 Kelly messaged me that she would be arriving on the bus from Fátima at 9:33, so after I ate I walked towards the bus stop to meet up with her. She is staying in Tomar tonight, but we will connect again in a few days because she will walk the same distance that I've divided into three days into two days.

    I got on the trail about 10am, and it was a very nice walk along the river, then up (and down) some dirt roads. It finally rained for real, but it was the kind of light rain that you can ignore until you realize that you are actually getting wet. So out came the rain gear and umbrella. There was a gentle rain most of the time until I reached Calvinos.

    I had been instructed to call the hospitalero when I arrived, and I was glad that there was a covered area to wait until he arrived because it started raining harder.

    This is a really nice albergue with ten beds, lockers, a great kitchen, and wonderful showers.

    I was able to shower, wash some clothes and get situated with no one else here. Then I decided that I needed to go look for food. The apps and Gronze website indicated that there was some kind of café here, but it didn't really have much to offer. However, a tiny store was also a part of it. I ended up buying a couple of cans of Portuguese bean soup/stew and some other items. The soup also has some pork (I'm not sure I want to know which parts of the pig) and sausage.

    When I got back to the albergue anotger pilgrim was just approaching - Evan from Australia who is a retired GP. After he got registered I offered to walk back to the store with him. He also bought bean soup, and we also bought dessert and wine.

    I finally got caught up with my blog posts from the last couple of days before we heated our dinner in the microwave.

    The rain and wind have been pretty steady all afternoon/evening, but it's nice and cozy in the albergue.    Read more

  • Terri's TrailsCamino Portuguese 2025Traveler

    Camino Day Eight

    May 4 in Portugal ⋅ 🌧 61 °F

    Calvinos to Alvaiázere
    ~21.25 km/13.2 miles

    The theme of the day was rain!
    I walked today with Evan from Australia who was in the albergue last night.

    First a light drizzle, then real rain and the donning of rain gear. Then the sun would come out and my poncho became a sauna suit, so off it would come. Only for it to start raining again 15 minutes later. This went on all day. Fortunately it wasn't a long day of walking. We arrived in Alvaiázere around 12:30.

    Today brought more hills and eucalyptus forests. At least we were rewarded with some nice views after the hill climbing.

    I couldn't check into my accommodation until 3 pm, so I went looking for something to eat while I waited. I found Evan had the same idea and had just arrived at one of the two restaurants that were open on a Sunday. My hotel has a restaurant, but it's closed today.

    We decided that we should go for a pretty big meal since there might not be anything available later on today. The specialty of the place was pork and we thought that we had both ordered pork but somehow we got a portion of pork and a portion of bacalhau (cod) . It turned out that the bacalhau was really the better choice of the two. With the fish and pork we also got chips, French fries, rice, salad, bread, olives, and something called migas which was bread mixed with some sort of greens and beans - quite delicious. There was enough left over that I can have it tonight and/or tomorrow for breakfast!    Read more

  • Terri's TrailsCamino Portuguese 2025Traveler
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    1Randomly placed drinking fountain1I loved the paintings on the "windows" of this building1This was a really pretty part of the trail3

    Camino Day Nine

    May 5 in Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 64 °F

    Alvaiázere to Alvorge
    ~22.7 km/14 miles

    I walked by myself all day, which was kind of nice. I enjoy walking with others, but it's nice to walk at my own pace, and stop to take photos or rest when it suits me.

    There was a light rain most of the morning, and a lot of mud on the trail. My sandals and socks were covered with mud, so the only thing to do was to walk through some clear water when I found it.

    There are so many crumbling buildings in the area that add to the landscape that I enjoy taking pictures of, so that was sort of the focus for today when I wasn't sloshing in the mud.

    I stopped for breakfast in Ansião which had a lot of interesting public art.

    I'm staying at a very nice albergue in Alvorge where I was tempted by the single private room. It was a good choice as the dorm is full of guys.

    We all had a really good dinner of pork, rice, salad, dessert and wine for only €10!

    Evan from Australia is here along with two Germans, an Italian, and a Korean man who has walked many Caminos.    Read more

  • Terri's TrailsCamino Portuguese 2025Traveler
    Me with María, who I met on the Camino in 2017Pilgrim refuge owned by María and her husband1

    Camino Day Ten

    May 6 in Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 55 °F

    Alvorge to Conímbriga
    ~19.6 km/12 miles

    I'm writing this post a few days late. I'm just going to post pictures right now, then add text later.

  • Terri's TrailsCamino Portuguese 2025Traveler
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    Yummy pastriesBreakfastFirst glimpse of CoimbraCrazy steep stairs. Each step was at least a foot high - and there were a lot of them!Yellow arrows to Santiago, blue arrows to FátimaAncient aqueductGroup dinnerCharcuterie at dinnerMy dinnerMy room2View from my room's terrace

    Camino Day 11

    May 7 in Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 59 °F

    Conímbriga to Coimbra
    ~17.3 km/11 miles

    Sorry, I'm writing this several days later. My days have been full - walking, sight-seeing and socializing with other pilgrims. I will try to write more later.

    I did meet up with my friend Angie from home - she arrived on the bus just before I got to town. Angie, Kelly, and I walked around the University, the New Cathedral and the Old Cathedral.    Read more

  • Terri's TrailsCamino Portuguese 2025Traveler
    So many headed to Fátima! We saw many groups like this.3Entrance to our hotelLittle castle on hotel groundsThe hotel's exterior was quite impressiveOur room1My roast chicken dinner

    Camino Day 12

    May 8 in Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 66 °F

    Coimbra to Curia
    ~29 km/18 miles

    Today was a pretty long day - fortunately, it was overcast and fairly cool.

    Because of the thousands of pilgrims heading to Fátima accommodations were in short supply. So Kelly and I booked a hotel in a town slightly off the Camino. We were very surprised to find out that it was at a 126 year old spa/resort. The place had obviously seen better days, but retained much of its grandeur.

    Our large comfortable room was fitted with three beds, and a bathroom that you could ballroom dance in.

    On the grounds were a small lake with beautifully colored ducks, paddle boats, tennis courts, and a children's playground. But all a bit worn around the edges.    Read more

  • Terri's TrailsCamino Portuguese 2025Traveler
    Breakfast buffet
    1Fátima shrine in the front yard of a homeSantiago symbolsEmergency station for Fátima pilgrimsPatio at the albergueMy room1More "trash art" by Bordalo II

    Camino Day 13

    May 9 in Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 63 °F

    Curia to Águeda
    ~21.5 km/13.4 miles

     After a buffet breakfast with assorted pastries and bread, meat, cheeses, fruit, etc. we left the hotel and rejoined the Camino about 4 km from Curia.

    The day started out sunny, but we soon saw dark clouds, and there was quite a downpour as we stood partially sheltered by tress on the side of a busy road.

    Most of the day was spent walking on asphalt and dodging raindrops. We both had reservations at Residencial Celeste/Albergue de Peregrinos San António. Kelly was in the dorms, and I had a private room. Unfortunately, not as luxurious as the day before.

    A lot of other people we had met previously were also staying there, and we made some new friends. A group of 8 of us enjoyed dinner together in town.    Read more

  • Terri's TrailsCamino Portuguese 2025Traveler
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    Camino Day 14

    May 10 in Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 59 °F

    Águeda to Albergaria-a-Nova
    ~23 km/14.3 miles

    Two weeks completed! A short time period that feels so much longer because of everything place I've been and every person I've met.

    Not too many photos today. I walked with Kelly today, and we also ran into others we have met along the way. Mostly walking through small towns with fornerly grand old homes.

    We also passed through the larger town of Albergaria-a-Velha which was quite nice.

    I stayed in a very nice private room with shared bath at albergue. There were only four of us staying in the entire place. Katy from France and Kristina from Slovakia in the dorm. Peter from the Netherlands and me in private rooms.

    We went to dinner at a restaurant called Há Leitão, which roughly translates as There is Suckling Pig, a dish that this region is known for. From the outside the restaurant looked all but abandoned, as did the other businesses on this street.

    I hadn't had the suckling pig yet while in this area, and luckily there were two servings left that day. In addition to our main dishes we also had vegetable soup, salad, rice and French fries. Wine was served in a rustic clay pitcher. The owner brought us sliced fresh strawberries and a glass of port wine homemade by his friend.

    The national championship football (soccer) game was on TV, and we all cheered when the owner's favored team scored. As he was serving us he always had one eye on the game.    Read more

  • Terri's TrailsCamino Portuguese 2025Traveler
    A sign reminding drivers that it's "pilgrim season"
    No train station, so this was set up to board the train121

    Camino Day 15

    May 11 in Portugal ⋅ 🌙 54 °F

    Albergaria-a-Nova to São João da Madeira
    ~22 km/13.7 miles

    Today marked the first day of new territory for me on this route. In 2022 I tested positive for Covid while I was in this area, and isolated in a nearby town for 6 days before taking a train to Porto.

    I left my albergue and walked about 40 minutes to the albergue where Kelly was staying. After helping Omar, a pilgrim we had met in Águeda with some tech issues we set out.

    We enjoyed really good weather for walking. No rain, and not hot.

    The big excitement was a bicycle race that passed us by.

    I was surprised by how large São João da Madeira is after being in so many tiny towns where everything is closed on Sundays. It was very different in São João. Several large grocery stores and a mall were all open and busy.

    I had booked a studio apartment for me and Kelly which was really nice and very new. Apparently Omar's initial plans for the day were too ambitious, and he messaged me for help finding a place. Fortunately, there was one room left for him.

    Our friends Cliff and José were in the building next door, and made reservations for our group at a Chinese buffet restaurant with a HUGE variety of dishes. There were the standard rice and noodle dishes plus an area where you could choose meat, seafood, veggie stand noodles to be cooked in a wok. At one end of the buffet were dozens of sushi rolls. Then there was fresh fruits and a huge choice of desserts.    Read more

  • Terri's TrailsCamino Portuguese 2025Traveler
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    First horreo sighting. The horreos in Portugal are much more basic than those in Galicia.1

    Camino Day 16

    May 12 in Portugal ⋅ 🌧 59 °F

    São João da Madeira to Grijó
    ~19 km/12 miles

    Note - I am writing this many days late, so my memories have faded.

    Kelly took the bus to Porto so that she could spend more time there, so I walked alone today. We will meet up tomorrow.

    The municipal albergue where I'm staying has several rooms with just a single bunk bed, so we three of us had our own rooms. There were only five of us staying here.

    It was rainy, and there weren't really any good places to eat within walking distance, so three of us took an Uber a few kilometers away to join the rest of the group I have been having dinner with most nights.    Read more

  • Terri's TrailsCamino Portuguese 2025Traveler
    1Cork tree

    Camino Day 17

    May 13 in Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 63 °F

    Grijó to Matosinhos
    ~26 km/16 miles

    Note - I am writing this many days late, so my memories have faded.

    The walk between Grijó and Porto was tougher and prettier than I had expected. There were some beautiful wooded areas with some hills to climb.

    As I got closer to Porto I caught up with Jaewoong, a South Korean man who had stayed in many of the same places as I had. We walked across the bridge into Porto together, then headed to the Cathedral where Kelly was waiting.

    After getting some pasteis de nata fresh from the oven Kelly and I said goodbye to Jaewoong and went for lunch.

    Then it was a nice walk along the Douro River, then a right turn up the coast when we got to the Atlantic.

    After checking into our respective hostels we went to a tour of the Pinhais Sardine Factory. Unfortunately, the catch that day hadn't been good, so the company didn't have any fish to process. Instead, the workers were packaging tins that had been already processed. Part of the tour was learning how to properly label a tin of sardines. Then the best part - sampling them. By that point I was pretty exhausted, so after some dessert and sangria I went to my hostel and bed.    Read more

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