Travels

October 2018 - May 2024
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  • Day 23

    Day 23/72: Singapore

    November 19, 2018 in Singapore ⋅ ⛅ 30 °C

    Woke early this morning and got packed ready to go to the airport. On the way in, Phuket airport was stressful so we gave ourselves plenty of time to check in etc. Luckily though, we passed through breezily and changed our 1000's of Baht for a disappointing amount of Singapore Dollars (the days of bartering in hundreds are behind us). We stepped off Thai soil, the feeling of leaving Thailand for good not quite sinking in, and flew on to our next stage of the trip, Singapore.

    We expected a change but even so, the difference between Thailand and Singapore is significant. We got on the train that runs above the streets of the city and looking down, saw what looks like those CGI make-ups of new building developments you see outside building sites, or on the internet. It's such a clean looking, modern city. Best compared to a large, well looked after European city like Brussels, with a distinct air of business. We got tourist 3 day underground/overground rail passes, and everyone speaks English so we arrived at the hostel with ease. We'd just set ourselves up on the bunk beds and decided to head out to explore, when the rain came down and the streets were suddenly rushing with water. We decided to wait for another 10 minutes before borrowing an umbrella from the hostel and making a run for it.

    The first stop on our exploring list was the long bar at Raffles Hotel, famous for making the cocktail the Singapore Sling. In this very bar in 1920, men would frequent to have a drink or 5 and observe the women walking along the street below. The women, who were not allowed to drink in those days, were given fruits and juices to drink. The barman at the time then came up with the idea of making a drink that looked like juice but adding clear spirits so the women could drink alcohol without being caught. It worked a treat and over time, dispelled the social norm that it was bad taste for women to drink alcohol. It's a gin based cocktail with cointreau, benedictine, pineapple juice, lime juice, grenadine and cherry liqueur. Extremely tasty! The bar itself was bizarre too! It had bamboo fans that wafted lazily overhead, and sacks of peanuts that you could eat and then drop the shells on the floor, so that it looked like the ground of a very chic monkey's house.

    The second stop was the Gardens by the Bay. We found these after going to the wrong station and having to walk through constriction site Singapore but that was soon forgotten. The beauty of the gardens in the post rain haze was incredible and they have these huge "trees" that help the environment in some way. We're returning tomorrow to find out more, as there are 2 glass houses, one with a huge flower garden and the other with a forest in a cloud. We aren't sure how they managed to catch the cloud yet...
    It was really quiet, which was strange as we were sure Singapore was a fairly touristy spot. We wandered around the gardens, taking photos of the trees (which as night fell had been lit with a bedazzlement of lights) and nature and generally getting lost. Then, as we were making our way back to the nearest station, we came through the main tree area and saw a huge crowd crammed in together, all looking at the lights. Feeling pleased that we'd somehow avoided all the crowds, we headed up towards the station. As we got higher, we turned back to look at the trees from a different vantage point and saw that a light show had begun. The LED's flowed and colours burst up and down the branches and trunks! It was brilliant to watch and a real treat to end a very good day.
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  • Day 24

    Day 24/72: Singapore day 2

    November 20, 2018 in Singapore ⋅ ⛅ 30 °C

    We woke up and had a lazy breakfast at the hostel this morning, enjoying the cake we picked up from a bakery late last night. We got the MRT to the botanic gardens and spent an absolutely beautiful and very hot and humid morning wondering around the gardens. The gardens are huge, with so many different areas, lakes and trees, with rainforest sections, fountains of all kinds and English country garden sections to make us feel slightly at home in the sweltering heat.

    The really impressive part of the garden was the orchid gardens, which cost about £3 to enter, and were absolutely huge and gorgeous; crammed full of the most beautiful hybrids of orchids in the world. There is a whole heritage and vip section of the orchid gardens, where famous or influential people who come to Singapore botanic Gardens get an orchid hybrid bred and named in their honour. A special favourite of ours was the Princess Diana orchid, which was absolutely beautiful.

    The heat in Singapore is very different to the heat in Thailand. In Thailand the heat is the first thing you notice when you walk out the door, whereas in Singapore the heat kind of sneaks up on you, to the point where you don't realise how hot you are until you find it impossible to try to cool down. We walked around the orchid gardens baking in the heat, wishing desperately that there would be the slightest lick of wind to soothe us, and standing slightly too close to the fountains to try and get the cool water to possibly splash on us a tiny bit.

    Once we had exhausted the gardens we headed to Chinatown where we enjoyed a huge lunch at a Chinese restaurant. The lunch consisted of egg fried rice, sweet and sour pork and kung pow chicken, and was absolutely incredible. We were very obviously the only tourists in the restaurant and the only people who had no idea how the whole premise of sharing large plates of food worked, but luckily the waitress was very friendly and explained it all as she gave us forks instead of chopsticks...

    We spent a while wondering around the shops in Chinatown, marvelling at inner painted bottles. Our next stop was the Gardens by the Bay. This time we paid to go inside the Cloud Forest: a dome very like the Eden Centre, in that it's an environment inside a dome where many plants are grown. It's quite incredible, huge waterfall in the middle and clouds hovering to create environments for many different types of plant, including lots of carnivorous ones. The centre had lots to do and learn about, and at the end had a huge portion on climate change and how to do better.

    The next dome we went to was the Flower Dome, which wasn't quite as impressive as it seemed to be mainly dedicated to Christmas decorations... But included a lot of roses which smelt incredible.

    We walked across a very impressive bridge past part of the F1 track and wondered into a very expensive shopping centre and got an enormous chocolate brownie and dark chocolate cake from a chocolate shop called The Dark Gallery. It was incredible; the richest brownie, but still incredibly light and fluffy!

    Right now I am writing this blog post while Tom gets his hair cut at a very expensive barbours, and absolutely raves about having a head massage while they are washing his hair; 'I'm never washing my own hair again!'
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  • Day 25

    Day 25/72: Singapore to Brisbane

    November 21, 2018 in Australia ⋅ 🌬 28 °C

    Today was a travelling day: a 8 hour flight from Singapore to Brisbane. Not the most exciting but we are finished with the southeast Asia part of our trip! Very sad to be leaving such a wonderful part of the world but looking forward to the weeks ahead!Read more

  • Day 26

    Day 26/72: Brisbane to Airlie Beach

    November 22, 2018 in Australia ⋅ ⛅ 30 °C

    Today was another travel day! After an awful night's sleep at a hostel above a nightclub in Brisbane, Tom went for a long run in the morning around Brisbane, which was great and loads of runners/cyclists were out at 6 in the morning! We got the train to the airport, where our flight was delayed due to thunderstorms over the airport. We finally boarded our plane and arrived in Proserpine. A quick shuttle bus (with a very enthusiastic driver who told us about the places we passed through) to Airlie Beach and we found our hostel and got settled in. We grabbed burgers for dinner, and went for a walk down on the beach front where we ran into some friendly guys who were also staying at the hostel who invited us to come and join their barbecue on the beach. They served us completely raw chicken, which we ended up cooking for them so that it was edible, but the conversation and company was nice, and the beach was lovely.Read more

  • Day 27

    Day 27/72: the best day ever!

    November 23, 2018 ⋅ ⛅ 28 °C

    We woke up early and walked down to Airlie Port to board our boat out onto the Great Barrier Reef. The reefsleep guests (people spending the night on the reef) had their own tables reserved, and we spent some time filling in forms and getting our itinerary from a guide. During the beautiful 3 hour boat journey to the reef there were lots of presentations by the photography team (telling us how to order both the above water and underwater photos they would be taking through the day) and the diving team (giving us a demonstration on how to dive...) which we ended up booking straight away.

    Once we got to the reef, all the day guests and us scrambled onto the huge pontoon sat on the edge of the reef and we quickly put on our stinger suits and flippers and went for a snorkel. The reef was incredible, so many fish we couldn't count, and so many different types of coral.

    After morning tea and a buffet lunch, we were feeling sufficiently like we wouldn't float any more, and headed to the diving team for our dive. They set us up with weight belts, oxygen tanks and all the gear, and explained that we would go down into the moon pool (!) and practice kneeling underwater and breathing. Because it was an introductory dive, our guide explained she would be holding our hands, taught us some hand signals, and how to clear our ears every 1/2meter we went down. They also taught us how to inflate our life jackets if we ever found ourselves on our own or anything.

    The sensation of breathing underwater is absolutely bizarre, and concentrating on your breathing that much just feels weird. After a few minutes we ended up getting used to the feeling, and she grabbed both our hands and led us under the ledge out of the moon pool. After 5 minutes or so she asked if we were okay to let go of our hands, and we swam along side her, staring around in awe of all the coral and fish we were seeing. It was surprisingly hard to control whether we were sinking or floating, and more than once she ended up pulling us up or down to keep us at the right depth.

    We came back up absolutely buzzing, it was one of the most amazing things I have ever done in my life. She congratulated us on being quick to stop panicking, and spoke to us while we took off our tanks about how she'd ended up moving from London to Aus to become a scuba diving instructor.

    We snorkeled again until we had to get out to wave the 158 day passengers off on the boat back to the mainland, and the 14 of us reefsleep passengers had the pontoon to ourselves! We met the team who would be there over night, and quickly found a turtle nibbling at the seaweed growing on the edge of the pontoon. When the boat had safely got away we went snorkeling again with the turtle, who was completely unphased by us being there.

    We had to stop snorkeling by 5pm because it started to get dark, and the staff could no longer be on look out and rescue because they had jobs to do to prepare dinner. The staff always have one person out on look out and if the helicopter (that was doing trips all day) sees a shark on the reef (a scary one, not a reef shark) then they radio to the staff and they get in tenders and scare away the shark. They also have huge fish (about 2-3m long) living around the pontoon which are very territorial and gang up on any shark that comes into their territory. (or that's what they tell us to make us feel better, still slightly scary swimming over the 50m depth around the pontoon to the reef).

    The sunset was absolutely beautiful, we all had showers and had our antipasti platter and drinks while watching the sunset over the sea. The moon was very nearly full and the tides were quite big, the reef was really out the water. One of the boat guys took us on a trip up to where rivers run through the sea when the tide gets that low: a phenomenon that only happens every 6 months or so for one night. They seemed to think that a tide drop from 3.2m to 1m was big, I told them they hadn't seen Guernsey tides.

    Dinner was served, huge fillet steaks and a butter bay bug (some big shrimpy thing). Dessert was lovely; chocolate cake and lemon tart. One of the staff them took us down into the underwater observatory and helped us identify coral, sea snakes, crabs, and all kinds of fish floating past the windows.

    We headed up to our swag quite early, it had a clear panel where we could see the stars while lying on the comfy mattress, although it did get warm without any ac.
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  • Day 28

    Day 28/72: Day 2 on the Reef

    November 24, 2018 ⋅ ☀️ 28 °C

    What a day! We woke up to the light from the sunrise coming through the fly sheet on our swag. It was about 0445, so we pulled up a chair and sat on our pontoon, looking over the reef, drowsily saying hi to our fellow reefsleepers who'd also woken up to catch it. We watched the sky turn from deep red through to blue as the sun that we had watched set the night before, rose to announce another day in Australia. While the sun was rising over the reef we happened to see a reef shark swimming along the edge of the reef! A very rare sight that close to the pontoon! It was such an experience, and we got another hours happy sleep before breakfast.

    We packed up the swags and headed for a breakfast of toast, bacon and eggs, yoghurt (yo-gurd), and fruit. Delicious! After our breakfast a turtle decided to join us by the edge of the pontoon. We then chilled out and read in the morning sun, feeling the wind slowly pick up before our morning activity; a surprise snorkel safari! The staff were kind enough to try and make time to take us out, although I'm sure they enjoyed the trip just as much as we did. They took us on a boat to the other side of the reef to experience something different. There were less fish on this side of the reef, but a much greater variety of coral which Katie the guide was very excited about. As everyone else got left behind in the strong current, we followed Katie along listening to her describing various aspects of the coral, how if you see blue tips it's good as that's growing coral, however if it's all blue it means it's stressed and is on the brink of bleaching (for example). It was very interesting stuff, and the more we slowed the more we saw. It was hard work swimming against the tide, a large one as it was the full moon, and we were almost glad to reach the pontoon for a break. Before long we were back in the water though, for a last swim before the day trippers arrived.

    The day followed similarly to the previous one. We snorkelled, daring to go deeper and swimming with a great variety of fish and turtles. We dived, and had Flic the same dive instructor as the day before. This was great as she let us off the leash early on, and we had a brilliant dive searching for baby lion fish, puffa fish, and swimming with Maggie who is about 1.5m long (insert her fish type when I remember). It was fantastic and got us hooked on diving, so much so that Izzi made contacts and got info about coming back and working on the reef to get diving qualifications! We had a lunch and one last snorkel (with turtles!!) and then it was time to say a sad goodbye to our little pontoon. We sat on the boat and watched the pontoon grow ever smaller, thinking back over the past couple of days dreamily as we made our way back to Airlee Beach.

    That evening we went for some pizza and banana/oreo milkshake, and returned to the hostel, shattered after a couple of the best couple of days of our lives.
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  • Day 29

    Day 29/72: Airlie Beach back to Brisbane

    November 25, 2018 in Australia ⋅ ⛅ 28 °C

    Sunday was a lazy day. We got up and checked out of the hostel, as we were flying back to Brisbane in the evening. We spent the morning lying down at the lagoon - really cool pools in the middle of the park for swimming in just off the beach! It seemed to be the thing that everyone does ona Sunday, loads of people lounging about. After some very relaxed swims, and a lot of sunbathing we wandered back past all the surf shops (not without buying some essential shorts and swimming stuff).

    We even saw Bella (one of our really good friends from LHS) which was lovely and it was so odd to see someone so close to home so far away! We then got picked up and taken by a bus back to the Airport to fly back to Brisbane.

    The evening in Brisbane was relaxing - we went to a Chinese restaurant and got dumplings and a beef soup, all really tasty and surprisingly cheap! We then got back and finished our books, and now Tom has to read my sisters keeper and Izzi has to read the beach.
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  • Day 30

    Day 30/72: Lone Pine Koala Sanctuary

    November 26, 2018 in Australia ⋅ 🌬 32 °C

    The day started with a debate about whether we should got to the Australia Zoo or to Lone Pine Koala Sanctuary. We decided that Lone Pine was probably more our thing- our reasoning being that it was probably more like the Owl and Hawk Conservancy (one of our favourite days out back home).

    We got an uber to the sanctuary and made it in just in time for the wild lorikeet feeding! We held up plates of oat mixture and the little colourful birds came down and sat on the edges of the bowl to feed. Izzi got pooed on, but that's lucky isn't it?

    After a clean up we went into the Kangeroo enclosure which was like a large park, and wandered around their huge paddock watching them lazily hop around and eat food that people were giving them, very similar to the stuff you'd feed animals at a family farm. We walked past the enclosures for loads of Australian animals- they had freshwater crocodiles (smaller, thankfully, than their saltwater cousins), they had dingoes and tons of koalas!

    We went to a sheep dog show which was really good: the border collies they used to use in Australia found it a bit too hot working on the farms, so they bred their own type of sheep dog which is 15% dingo. The dog was great, and when the sheep were in a tight enough enclosure would get up on the sheep's backs to run across them- much safer than being on the ground with them. We spent a while talking to the farmer about sheep farms in Australia and the training process for the dogs.

    After getting some iced teas to cool off we went to hold a koala. They were surprisingly heavy, soft and quite complacent with being held! They all seemed completely nonplussed by the days activities.

    We went to the snake keeper talk, who taught us basic first aid if you are bitten by a snake; not something we get taught in first aid classes back in the UK. The sanctuary had two of the most venomous snake in the world, and luckily the keeper told us that there was no way to tell which snakes were venomous or which aren't unless you're amazing at telling apart every type of snake. But there is a universal anitivenom so no need to bring the snake to the hospital, and if you put a compression bandage over the bite and lie down, you can salvage yourself 9 hours where if you ran to a car and didn't compress the wound, you'd be in a coma in 3 minutes. Wow!

    The next talk was the koala keeper talk, they sleep for 20 hours a day and eat nearly 1kg of eucalyptus each day each. The eucalyptus cutters have to cut more than half a ton of eucalyptus a day for all the koalas at the sanctuary. They only like 40 of about 800 species of eucalyptus and of that only eat the juiciest leaves at the very top, fussy animals!

    The platypuses (platypi? Help!) were really cool- they are nocturnal and lived in a dark house thing. They weren't blue, nor did they look like they solved crime very well. The males are venomous though! They have a venomous spike on their heel which can cause excruciating pain in humans that morphine can't subdue. Also, they're an egg laying mammal, so don't have teats but secrete milk through the skin of their stomachs so that the babies can drink it out of a furry milk pool on the mother!

    The Tasmanian Devil talk was good- it started with the handler giving them half a rabbit and the next 1/2 hour they fought over the best bits. They are named this way because they scream, so people thought they were devils or ghosts.

    We went on a quest to find the wombats next- a pretty tough task because they are nocturnal. We spotted one asleep in a tube in his enclosure though. He was huge! Much bigger than you'd imagine, about the size of a large pillow! As a defence mechanism, wombats have a large flat bottom that they can use to crush anything against the sides or ceiling of their homes if say a snake was to slither in unawares when they were asleep.

    After some more feeding of the kangaroos (the grown up males were huge and muscly, the joeys were all so cute), we headed out for the day. Interestingly, any marsupial gives birth to a joey, which is about the size of a jelly bean. The joey then crawls it's way up into the pouch, and latches onto a teat and stays there until it is fully developed. It's more than likely for a kangeroo to have more than one joey in its pouch at once, one tiny one and one nearly fully developed one.

    After we got back into Brisbane, we went to the cinema to watch Fantastic Beasts and had a burrito. Both were good but interestingly enough they don't have sweet popcorn in Australia! After the film we wandered around to some lagoons by the river and then headed back to the hostel.
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  • Day 31

    Day 31/72: A day on the Gold Coast

    November 27, 2018 in Australia ⋅ ☁️ 23 °C

    Today we went down to the Gold Coast for the day, an area known for its extremely long beach and surfing. We didn't know exactly what we were going to do there, but got the train (equipped with questionable savoury muffins) there to have a look around.

    The journey took just over an hour, and from the train we took a tram which went down the coast, about 1km from the beach front. We got off early and walked to the beach. It wasn't something we'd seen before. Dotted along the coastline, right on the beach front, were areas that looked like major cities, with skyscrapers, but were really the size of large towns! It was quite odd, walking along the soft sand, watching the waves crashing and being disturbed by the wind, and then looking right and looming above you a 70 story building. It's always nice to be back on a beach, and we wandered along the sand towards the city. The sea was relatively choppy and the weather cool, so there were very few people surfing but we could see how the beach would be ideal for it.

    There were areas of swimmers, so after a while we put down our stuff and jumped in. The waves, however choppy for surfers, were great for swimming and diving around in, and we spent a good while body surfing and diving through the waves.

    After we'd got cold and hungry, we got out and the sun came out to dry us off, we sat and read our books for ages, until about 3 when we went to a beach front cafe to have burgers and iced tea/coffee. The burgers were fab and suitably full we went back to the beach to do some more reading. The sun began to drop behind the buildings so we gathered our stuff and as we walked back up the beach towards the tram, we had a mini photo shoot in the light between the gaps in the skyscrapers.

    We got the train back to Brisbane and as we were heading back to the hostel, decided we needed something small to get us through to breakfast, so stopped at a churros cafe we'd seen the day before and had, well, churros. They were very good with the dark and white chocolate dipping sauces and we sat on the street, reading and watching the world go by. We ended up staying there, getting more iced teas, for a good hour and a half and left only when they were closing up the cafe!
    A very relaxed day overall, our last full day in Australia! The time has flown by and it seems so odd that we're going onto NZ already! We've had a fantastic time in Australia though, and before the flight tomorrow we're going to do some more wandering, and look around Brisbane for the morning/lunch.
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  • Day 33

    Day 33/72: A day in Auckland

    November 29, 2018 in New Zealand ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

    After the events of the night before, we managed to get into the hostel and sleep at about 0400! Blimey we were tired, and ended up crashing until about midday! We decided to head out for some lunch, which was more of a breakfast anyway, lots of eggs and bacon.

    After breakfast, we headed to one of the cities parks to sit and plan some of what we were going to do in NZ. This was a great idea as the park was lovely and felt/smelled very British. We sat in the sun and moved quickly to the shade as it was a very hot day. We planned our 10 or so days in the North Island, before planning where we were going to stay over Christmas and NY. Everywhere around Queenstown was booked, and after ringing around, we got some advice. The site receptionist said "right, I can hear you're not from here so let me tell you how the Christmas thing works. Through the year we limit our site to 100 guests. Over Christmas and NY, ie the NZ summer holidays, we have over 5000 Kiwi's decend on our site alone, and spend it there with their friends and families. If I can give you any advice, get out of the most popular areas, you'll be swamped by people if you try and stay in these places, and tbh most of them will be booked up months in advance" (she was right). "If I were you, book somewhere quiet with fantastic scenery inbetween the coast and the city, so you can still move around, but enjoy Christmas at the same time!" Strong words, but we took heed and hopefully it'll pay off!

    Feeling much better after having some structure to the next couple of weeks, we headed down the main street looking in shops and generally taking in the city. We wandered down to the harbour and had a look at what day trips Auckland had to offer. We were enticed by the whale watching safari, something we were both really keen to do, so booked that for the following day (writing this in retrospect, it was sadly cancelled due to weather conditions, but not to worry, we have something planned for later in the trip!). We then headed back to the hostel, a strange place where the reception and pool/table tennis area is occupied by loads of people, not just hostel guests. We had a few games of pool, then trash talk turned to bowling so we went up the road and had a game. Interestingly enough in NZ, the barriers can only be raised for under 12's no matter how hard you protest, which put Izzi at a great disadvantage.

    After the bowling, we headed for dinner and came across a very small pizza place, tucked away in a corner. They served brilliant pizzas though, and we enjoyed an extra cheesy margarita and a carbonara pizza, they were lovely. We then headed back to the hostel and played another couple of games of pool to finish off the day.
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