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Fénix Camino
  • Deryker
  • Deryker

Fénix Camino

The Camino de Santiago is an ancient (900AD) pilgrimage to Santiago de Compostela in Galicia, Spain. I did the first 180 miles in 2023. I'm planning on doing another 180 miles with this trip. That would leave me with 130 miles to finish the route. J Read more
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  • Trip start
    April 18, 2025
  • DerykerFénix CaminoTraveler

    Madrid

    April 19 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 36 °F

    The weather flying into Madrid looked a little ugly. The weather forecast matched it. 😳 Looks to have some breaks, though.

  • DerykerFénix CaminoTraveler

    Madrid metro

    April 19 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 45 °F

    Took the metro from the airport to the train station. It's about a 45-minute ride with two transfers. The metro is impressive. Has the vibe of London with all the crazy station tunnels, but it is super clean. The metro cars are up to date and sparkling. They're better than the cars in London or DC.Read more

  • DerykerFénix CaminoTraveler

    Atocha train to Burgos

    April 19 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 46 °F

    Train station was extremely busy. Easter weekend is a big deal in Spain, as you can imagine. Hit my favorite cafe shop - La Pausa. Love my european breakfast - cafe con leche and a fresh croissant. The weather is getting better! 😁 Burgos is a go!Read more

  • DerykerFénix CaminoTraveler

    Oops! Wrong train station!!

    April 19 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 50 °F

    I did have a fleeting moment that Burgos may not be a go today when the ticket taker mentioned my ticket was for a different station. 😳 I had an hour to make it. But I had to take another train. Got there in a cool 45 😎 Then the wonderful Anna from Georgia got pretty friendly after I helped her at the station. She asked if she could take a picture of me, and I said sure. Then she proceeded to take a headshot pic. Whoa! Of course, I had to reciprocate but with a 'standard' picture. Then she wanted to see it. To make sure it was a "good" picture. 📸Read more

  • DerykerFénix CaminoTraveler

    The City of Burgos

    April 19 in Spain ⋅ 🌬 48 °F

    The Catedral de Santa María de Burgos is pretty amazing. I toured it back in 2023, and it was massive. But some of the smaller churches along the Camino are spectacular with all their gold. Always enjoy the city square. I like the idea of a common area for the community and all their activities. I guess in the U.S. its called the mall. Wrapping up the day with a cerveza. That will be a common theme. 😋 It's nice to be back. I'm staying at the same hotel when I stopped walking the Camino. The real work starts tomorrow. Hope I can find a place to sleep. 🤞 Enjoy!Read more

  • DerykerFénix CaminoTraveler

    Day 1. Stg 13. Hornillos del Camin

    April 20 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 37 °F

    Getting started with where I left off on April 11, 2023. Stayed in the same hotel - Norte y Londres.

    This is a fresh start for a new journey in life!

    Early rise to get on the road to Burgos by 6 AM. Needed to get an early start to make sure I had a place to sleep in Hornillos del Camino.

    Thanks to Kim Sholtis for turning me on the Camino de Santiago in 2021.

    This trip is due to Maureen Gillekson's great timing by sending me an email on March 31st. I took it as a sign to get back to Spain. As a little background, I met Maureen walking up Alto del Perdon, which has a sculpture of pilgrims walking outside of Pomplona. We talked for about 45 minutes. It was a wonderful discussion about life and why things happen for what seem like a reason. It hit home. We are now friends for life. She sent me the prayer.

    And Drake without a goatee hasn't been seen since 2008. It's coming back.

    Restaurants are closed for Easter Sunday but the bars are open 😁    Read more

  • DerykerFénix CaminoTraveler

    Camino Living

    April 20 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 55 °F

    I'm staying at an Albergue tonight, which is a hostel that has a shared dormitory-style sleeping arrangements.

    15 euros. You get what you pay for. Although the reviews on this place believe the price is too high. People are thinking a fair price would be more like 9 😯Read more

  • DerykerFénix CaminoTraveler

    Day 2. Stg 14. Castrojeriz

    April 21 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 46 °F

    It's another 15-mile walk today.

    Woke up to a cool and foggy day.

    On the way to Hontanas, I crossed two small plateaus along a long and solitary dirt trail, then I entered the flat San Antón valley until I reached Castrojeriz. It was pretty, but lots of time to think 🤔

    Got lucky since the rain passed to the south of us. Lots of people on the trail. Forty percent are from South Korean. A reality TV show from 10 years ago made it extremely popular. There's a Korean podcast on the trail with his entourage. It's pretty funny to watch.

    These old towns just pop rounding a corner. Small town with a church and a castle at the top of the knowl. They are spectacular. So, much history.

    My hostel was much nicer. Also signed up for a pilgrams dinner, which was simply a pasta salad and baked chicken. We all eat together at a large table. Spoke with a father and daughter who came from Australia. Great conversations.

    Hiked to the castle, which was a chore. Came upon a sheep hearder with his 200 sheep and three dogs. The generation of dogs from a senior citizen to his newest one. Beautiful animals working the sheep 🐑.

    The views from the castle were wonderful. But climbing some parts of it were scary. Can't imagine the people building such a structure. Only three people at the castle, so I had it to myself.

    I ended up connecting with Dawn from Oaxaca, Mexico 🇲🇽 . She recently moved there from New Zealand to retire. Ended up going to a bar and chatting. Friendships are easily had on the Camino. People are more open and true to themselves. I'll be walking with her and her friend Tanya tomorrow.

    Had five people in dorm room. Rod from England snored so loud that the germany woman dragged her bed into the common area to get some sleep. Rod never woke up during her move. Too funny!    Read more

  • DerykerFénix CaminoTraveler

    Day 3. Stg 15. Frómista

    April 22 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 45 °F

    The quest today was 20 miles.

    I connected with one of my dorm mates as i was walking out the door this morning - Iker. He's from San Sebastián which in the northern east part of Spain. He takes a week off every year to walk part of the Camino. Phenomenonl human being. So, much heart and compassion for life. His 5% English, my 5% Spanish, and google translate worked out well. But today was his last day. That's how the Camino works. I will see him again one day.

    We ended up catching up to Dawn, who I met yesterday at the castle, and her friend Tanya. Tanya is from Australia and is a joy. We all walked together for 15 miles, and we had such a splendid time chatting and drinking at our restaurant stops.

    Once we got to our destination, Tanya and I had a couple cervezas, then we to a grocery to make a group salad. Eating together is always festive.

    Today was an absolutely wonderful day. Don't know if it can be beat in the next week. But I'll give it a go. Enjoy!    Read more

  • DerykerFénix CaminoTraveler

    Day 4. STG 16. Carrión de los Condes

    April 23 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 37 °F

    Recovery day with only 11 miles on the docket.

    Met an interesting couple who walked the Camino 10 years ago - Stephen and Lesley. He was a nurse and she was a teacher. They mentioned how much has changed on the Camino. It's much more commercial nowadays and built-up. I guess it felt more remote. They were cute holding hands in front of us as they walked.

    Had an in-depth conversation with Stephen about the medial field and how patient care has evolved over the last 30 years. Especially those in senior citizen care and hospices. Extremely fascinating. Dealing with implementing cultural change.

    It was an uneventful walk with lots of open space, but way too much exposure to the sun. Plus, being able to see all the way down to where you are going makes for a very long day.

    Staying at an Albergue supported by nuns. Getting scolded in spanish seems a little bit harsher. Nice facilities, though. Everyone has been hand washing their clothes since it's such a beautiful day. Large group of South Koreans at this place.    Read more

  • DerykerFénix CaminoTraveler

    Day 5. Stg 17. Ledigos.

    April 24 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 45 °F

    Another 15 miles, but the heat was turned on today. I'm not complaining since rain will not be tolerated.

    A long walk. Pretty uneventful. Ledigos is a sleepy town with only two albergues (hostels). Absolutely nothing else. Finally feeling the groove of Camino social. No judgment. Just acceptance.

    Yes, a dos cervezas day 😀

    Hope to post what I carry in my backpack tomorrow.    Read more

  • DerykerFénix CaminoTraveler

    Day 6. Stg 18. Bercianos del Real Camino

    April 25 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 52 °F

    Today was a 16-mile walk to Bercianos del Real Camino.

    Hit the road at 7 am. Stopped by the lone cafe around 8.30 am. Cafe con leche and a croissant never gets old. But it was a long warm walk.

    Today, we passed through the "halfway" columns for the Camino de Santigo in Sahagun. Then we picked up our certificate in Santuario de la Virgen Peregrine shrine for 3 euros. Did a little lunch at a cafe.

    Shared an outstanding burger, fries, and salad at the hostel. 😋 Hug out with some new friends from Fort Worth, Texas - Dennis and Rita. They met on eHarmony five years ago. Talked on the phone for three days. Married in three weeks. They are doing the Caminos, PCT, and AT. Definitely a down to earth lifetime couple. So nice to see their openness and honesty with each other.    Read more

  • DerykerFénix CaminoTraveler

    Day 7. Stg 19. Mansilla de las Mulas

    April 26 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 63 °F

    Camino de Santiago pilgrimage 2024 stats:

    Walking – 404,175 pilgrims
    Bicycling – 22,881 pilgrims
    Blank entry – 5,726 pilgrims
    Horseback – 606 pilgrims
    Wheelchair – 198 pilgrims

    A 16-mile walk today that took approximately 6 hours.

    Today was a turning point for me. I started this trip with an extremely heavy heart, and with each step, it has got lighter with the help of mis peregrinas (my pilgrims). I'm hoping a new journey is in my near future. As a bonus, I got to experience a spontaneous Camino gauntlet today (see vid). What a treat! I didn't know any of them. People can be absolutely on target with what I needed the most. May be there is a god 🙏 or not 🙃 The camino provides what you need. There are "Camino angels" which I'll cover in the future. Looking forward to Leon tomorrow.    Read more

  • DerykerFénix CaminoTraveler

    The Camino backpack

    April 26 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 50 °F

    A number of people have asked me about what I carry on the Camino. Here's my list:

    - Backpack (30 liters)
    - Jacket (synthetic)
    - Running shoes
    - Phone
    - Keffiyeh (headscraf)
    - Two sets on clothes (wear one, carry one). Wash daily.
    - Two sets of socks and liners
    - One pair of shorts
    - Summer weight top/bottom thermals (mainly for sleeping but also for the cold)
    - Electronic chargers
    - Thin sleep liner
    - Blowup flight pillow
    - Emergency bivi
    - Watch
    - First aid kit
    - Security belt for passport and cash
    - Rain poncho, jacket, pants, and hat
    - Lightweight foldable backpack for quick access to rain gear.
    - Toothbrush and paste
    - Small Dr. Bonner liquid (Shower and clothes)
    - Lip balm
    - Extremely lightweight towel
    - Earbuds
    - Ear plugs for snoring
    - Snacks
    - Two liters of water.
    - Baseball hat
    - Second pair glasses. Backup.
    - Shower bag
    - Indoor/Shower shoes
    - Dog tags

    Approximately 21 lbs.

    Enjoy!    Read more

  • DerykerFénix CaminoTraveler

    Day 8. Stg 20. Leon

    April 27 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 55 °F

    Today was our shortest walk - 11 miles.

    The Puente sobre el Río Porma (1st video) was a roman built bridge. It was most likely built in the Middle Ages, probably around the 12th or 13th century. It served as a major river crossing for merchants, locals, and especially pilgrims walking toward Santiago de Compostela.

    The bridge is specifically mentioned in the Codex Calixtinus (a 12th-century guidebook for pilgrims), highlighting its role as a key crossing point. Pilgrims would have had to ford many rivers otherwise, so a strong, reliable bridge like this was crucial. Some records suggest that local monasteries or towns maintained the bridge to support the pilgrim traffic.

    Leon, at least the historic district, is such a unique place. León was originally founded as a Roman military camp called Legio VI Victrix, and later Legio VII Gemina. It was set up around 29 BC to guard the gold mines of northwestern Spain and to defend Roman interests. The name "León" actually comes from "Legio" (legion).

    The Cathedral of León (2nd video), officially known as the Santa María de León Cathedral, is one of the best examples of Gothic architecture in Spain. The site originally hosted Roman baths during the Roman Empire. Later, in the 10th century, King Ordoño II of León built a palace there. After a victory over the Moors at the Battle of San Esteban de Gormaz (around 917), he decided to convert the palace into a church.

    Gotta love history.    Read more

  • DerykerFénix CaminoTraveler

    The credential and Compostela

    April 27 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 66 °F

    The credential is the pilgrim's passport which must be stamped on each stage. The Compostela is the document which certifies completion of the pilgrimage.

    The pilgrim's credential is the sort of passport which must be stamped on each stage of the route. Its origins date back to the Middle Ages and the document which was given to pilgrims for use as a safe-conduct. It must be stamped at least two times a day over the final 100 km (for pilgrims on foot or horseback ). The only official and valid credential is issued by the Pilgrim Office.

    It provides access to pilgrim hostels and serves as proof of the pilgrimage, allowing the pilgrim to request the Compostela upon completion.

    In order to obtain the Compostela, it is not necessary to have completed the route over a consecutive period of time, but the journey must be geographically consecutive. This means that it is possible to follow the route on weekends, for example. However, it must always be taken up again at the previous destination, as skipping a section would invalidate the right to obtain the certificate.    Read more

  • DerykerFénix CaminoTraveler

    Camino angel

    April 27 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 63 °F

    My Camino angel for this trip is an Aussie named Tania Bromley. I met her seven days ago. She has been savior to me. I can not express my gratitude for all her help. I really don't know where I'd be without her.

    In general, a Camino angel refers to a person who unexpectedly helps pilgrims during their journey along the Camino de Santiago — the famous network of pilgrimage routes leading to Santiago de Compostela in Spain.

    These "angels" aren’t literal angels, but kind strangers who offer assistance, encouragement, food, shelter, first aid, or emotional support when it's most needed — often when a pilgrim is feeling exhausted, lost, or discouraged. Sometimes they’re locals, volunteers, other pilgrims, or even anonymous helpers who seem to "appear out of nowhere" at just the right time.

    Some people believe these moments are almost miraculous, which is why they call them "Camino angels."    Read more

  • DerykerFénix CaminoTraveler

    Day 9. Stg 21. San Martin del Camino

    April 28 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 39 °F

    Brutal 16-mile walk today.

    The walk out of León was nice with all it's buildings, enclosed streets, and history on display.

    The first defensive Roman walls (1st video) were built during the Roman period, around the 3rd–4th centuries AD. These walls formed a fortified rectangle around the settlement. The walls were about 5 meters high (16 ft) and up to 4 meters thick (13 ft) in places. Parts of the wall can still be viewed today. Massive!

    Once out past the city limits, we pretty much hugged a busy truckers road. It really is mentally fatiguing to see where you are going for 5 miles in a straight line. Totally exposed to the sun beating down on us. Makes for a long day.

    At least the Albergue was nice, but we've had no power since Spain, Portugal and France's power grid went offline around 1 pm.

    The feet are doing well. Lots of people are cutting their Camino short due to injuries. Knees, ankles, and feet are the main issues. The toe socks are popular this time around. Guess i need to give them a try next time.

    Finally! Power back on at 3.25 am.    Read more

  • DerykerFénix CaminoTraveler

    Day 10. Stg 22. Astorga

    April 29 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 48 °F

    The 15-mile walk to Astorga was a great way to end my Camino. The walk itself had a little bit of everything, the people were entertaining, and it was a perfect spring day.

    I walked stage 22 of the Camino to celebrate Simon Bromley's life. Simon was Tania's husband, who passed away in 2016. He always wanted to walk the Camino, and now Tania is walking the walk for/with him. He was a wonderful human being and husband. Big hug to Tania my Camino angel 😇

    As we walked, we came upon a hippy Camino food stand out in the middle of nowhere, and I firmly believe Simon had something to do with it. It had a huge buffet of food and drinks. It only accepted donations and had a wonderful vibe to it. The dog (hector) was a bonus (see video) .

    The city of Astorga has a rich and ancient history dating back over 2,000 years. Founded as Asturica Augusta in the 1st century BCE by the Romans, it was a key military and administrative center due to its location on major Roman roads, including the Via de la Plata. It became an important hub for gold mining in nearby Las Médulas. Pretty old!

    We visited The Palace of Gaudí designed by the renowned Catalan architect Antoni Gaudí. His most famous work is without a doubt the Sagrada Família in Barcelona, Spain. Also visited the Iglesia de Santa Marta cathedral, which was built in 1751.

    As I mentioned, this is my last stage for this trip. I'm taking the train back to Leon tomorrow to explore the city a little more. I'll spend the night and take a train to Madrid to catch my flight back home on Friday. Hopefully, I've instilled a couple of you to consider the Camino de Santiago. It's challenging physically and mentally but well worth all the great lifetime experiences. I'll be back next year to wrap it up. Thanks for joining me on my adventure. Enjoy!    Read more

  • DerykerFénix CaminoTraveler

    Day 11. Leon

    April 30 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 50 °F

    A short day in Leon. Visited the Leon Cathedral, which was pretty amazing. Stunning inside with all its stained glass windows.

    It was a sad day to say goodbye to my Camino angel - Tania Bromley. It's not the end but the beginning of a great friendship.

    Nice to finally stay in a hotel. Dormitory bunk rooms and shared living spaces gets old. Plus, the view from the room was a view to die for. Especially at night. Enjoy!

    A woman capturing some Camino insights and feelings - see the last two images I posted. Pilgrims pick up some unique perspectives during our journey. It keeps everyone coming back.    Read more

  • DerykerFénix CaminoTraveler

    Day 12. Madrid

    May 1 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 68 °F

    Train ride into Madrid was uneventful. The hotel room was small, but after all the bunks and snoring, it was luxurious.
    Ate at my favorite calamari restaurant - Restaurant 3B in San Blas-Canillejas, Madrid. Way too much food, but it was as delicious as two years ago.Read more

  • DerykerFénix CaminoTraveler

    Day 13. Madrid - Airport

    May 2 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 55 °F

    Thunderstorm on top of the Madrid airport ⛈️ Some serious microbursts. Should be a fun takeoff. Back to my Navy flying days. BTW, I once took off in Pensacola, Florida, with two visible tornadoes. Safer to be in the air. :)

    As a note, it rained when I flew into Spain. Then twelve cool but beautiful days. Last day - thunderstorm. Timed it perfect! The gods love The Drake. Just saying...

    Sorry, to all the pilgrims walking in the rain. Stay safe!

    Bonus! Open seat next to me. Time for a bourbon & coke 😋    Read more

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