• John Dunford
  • John Dunford

South America

A 159-day adventure by John Read more
  • Trip start
    November 1, 2024
  • Buenos Aires 1

    Nov 2–8, 2024 in Argentina ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

    Arrived in BA at 09:45 getting through customs etc. in about an hour. Directly outside customs is a shop selling public transport cards, so that was my only arrivals worry sorted out. I was a bit taken aback when the guy asked if I'd like to load it with nine thousand dollars. Took my brain a couple of seconds to register that was about 10 euro.
    Long bus ride through the teeming outskirts of BA ending in a diversion because of Gay Pride. Got to my hostel and had a quick walk round San Telmo. Seems a nice , relaxed area. Changed 100 USD at the Western Union.
    Sunday is market day in San Telmo. Had an explore and even saw a tango demonstration. Googled live music and saw a show this evening 100 meters from the hostel so I bought a ticket.
    Very good 4 women show about the evolution of music from the rain forest. Excellent show, I guessed what it was even though I didn't understand the Spanish. A woman sitting at my table confirmed what I thought though.
    Monday starts with heavy rain ☹️
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  • Buenos Aires 4

    November 7, 2024 in Argentina ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    An opera house visit is always a must. Unfortunately with a performance on tonight the house lights were down to perform stage lighting checks.
    Only tickets left for that nights performance cost 158,000 ARS (150 USD)Read more

  • Tigre

    Nov 8–9, 2024 in Argentina ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    An unexpected day in Tigre after I misjudged my ferry to Carmelo. A very tourist town, but beautiful weather for a walk along the river front.

  • Ferry to Carmelo

    Nov 9–11, 2024 in Uruguay ⋅ ☀️ 27 °C

    Finally got my ferry to Carmelo. Very nice 2.5 hour crossing the river. Easy transfer to the bus to Colonia. First company said I heir next bus was in 5 hours, but she drew me a map to another company round the corner whose bus left in 30 minutes. Gave me time to find an ATM and buy some water. My Spanish is improving 😁Read more

  • Montevideo

    Nov 11–13, 2024 in Uruguay ⋅ 🌬 21 °C

    Arrived about 14:00 and after easily getting to my hostel the first thing I did was honto the bus station and buy my ticket to the next stop. I had a specific bus I wanted to take.
    Then to Teatro Silos but too late for tour today so I'll do it tomorrow.
    A walk round the old town then up to the 22 floor of the Mirador for the sunset.
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  • Montevideo 2

    November 12, 2024 in Uruguay ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

    3 places left to visit today
    1. An out of centre art museum
    2. Carnival museum
    3. 4pm opera house tour

    1. Art museum doesn't open for another 2 hours ☹️
    2. Carnival museum open every day except Tuesdays ☹️
    3. At least I checked on the opera house tour! But no, today's tour cancelled due to a concert for children.

    Plan B. The ONE thing that will never let you down. Cheers.
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  • Santana do Livramento to Puerto Iguaçu

    Nov 14–15, 2024 in Brazil ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    The twin towns of Rivera and Santana do Livramento. The border runs straight through the middle and is completely ignored. Brazil is cheaper than Uruguay so the Uruguayans do their shopping in Brazil. But Rivera is a duty free town, so the Brazilians go to Rivera to shop tax free.
    Had an educated guess as to where the bus station was and managed to get a taxi to take me there.
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  • To Salta

    November 20, 2024 in Argentina ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    Fined 100 USD for being in the country illegally! Bus didn't stop at Paraguay border when coming from Argentina.
    Ferry costs 2 USD. On the Argentina side there's only a border post and it's 12km to town. Uber lets me down. And tells me there are no available drivers.
    Hitch a ride in a pick-up and discover I can't find my Argentina pesos so my tide costs me 20 USD and my remaining Guaraníes.
    So I'm at the bus station with no money except USD and no bus ticket. And my bus doesn't go from the bus station of course. Wander round town looking for a western union but non of them have any money. At least I get directions and find where my bus goes from in 4 hours. Go looking for money but all banks are closed and ATM s refuse my cards.
    The one thing that is working in this town are the money changers so I can change 100 USD.
    Have a steak and ice cream lunch to celebrate and to add a cherry on the cake I can buy my bus ticket online 👍
    17:30 I'm on the bus ready for my 17 hour ride to Salta.
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  • Hiking in Salta

    November 21, 2024 in Argentina ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    After picking up my washing 😁 went for a hike. First challenge taking a local bus to the starting point. Hostel reception tell me you need a card on the bus but if you don't have one you just ask someone who has and give them 1000 peso.
    So I get to the hike. I know alltrails say it's hard. If I'd known how hard I might not have done it.
    But I got up and started down. It was begining to get dark and my phone battery was getting lower and lower.
    I got lost several times but eventually made it down just as my battery ran out.
    Got my colectivo back to Salta andade it back in time for the evening asado.
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  • Fitzroy trail, 26 km

    December 1, 2024 in Argentina ⋅ ☁️ 1 °C

    26 km there and back. Starts off ok, but the last km is like a rocky dried up riverbed on a vertical cliff face.

  • Mirador de los Cóndores

    December 2, 2024 in Argentina ⋅ ☁️ 10 °C

    An evening hike after the park rangers have packed up and gone home 😁
    Easy walking mostly on a sandy path. Great views of Fitzroy now that the clouds that have hung around the top all day have blown away.Read more