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Dos Perigrinos

Commercial photographer / videographer, world traveler & retired airline employee (that really helps with the world traveling!). Read more🇺🇸Austin
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    • Dos PerigrinosTravelerCamino de Santiago Frances

      Day 22: To Mansilla de Mulas

      June 2, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 70 °F

      I left Bercanos del real Camino headed to Mansilla de las Mulas around 8:30 accompanied by Terry, his granddaughter Emma, and her boyfriend Jack. We ended up walking much of the day together and we were all looking forward to having our own place with private bedrooms this evening.
      Today wasn’t the prettiest or most dynamic of days. It was basically just a long (partially shaded) hike along a trail next to a medium busy road. Going through the village of El Burgo Ranero, storks were working on their nest on the bell tower. (You see them in a lot of the bell towers. I’m wondering if they have some sort of barter system worked out with the Catholic Church….)
      A little later I ran across a row of trees where someone had knitted little sweaters for the trees along the path. (Perhaps to make them more huggable?)

      Tonight, we had the apartment for Sue, Terry, Emma, Jack, and me. The “kids” offered to make dinner for us, so they went out and picked up groceries to cook a great pasta dinner while I worked on laundry for the gang.
      The original plan was that Sue (a salsa and swing dance instructor) was going guide a dance party, but that plan pretty much fell apart when the reality hit home that we had all already walked over 18 1/2 miles earlier in the day and none had the energy for any kind of party. So, after dinner we just all said our good nights, and headed off to bed in preparation of our hike to León tomorrow.      Read more

    • Dos PerigrinosTravelerCamino de Santiago Frances

      Day 21: To Bercianos del Real Camino

      June 1, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 70 °F

      This morning I left before 7am and the sun was just up. It was a beautiful time to walk. After around 4K I arrived at Moratinos for a much-needed coffee break. After enjoying my coffee and pastry, I continued to a (fairly) major town on today’s hike, Sahagùn. Shortly before I entered the town, I passed over a medieval bridge and then through a monument that signifies the theoretical 1/2 point from St Jean Pied de Port France to Santiago de Compostela Spain. (You walk between two statues that mark the official 1/2 point.) That is of course if you walked directly from SJPDP to Santiago or about 400K of the 800K total.) Of course, I’ve been walking around the towns, having lunch, looking for bathrooms etc, so as of lunchtime today I have walked 321 miles or 517 kilometers since leaving SJPDP.
      Entering Sahagún you pass another great pilgrim mural and then a big gate “The Arch of San Benito” that was originally the entrance to a church but is now an entrance to the city.
      I went ahead and had lunch while in Sahagùn. I joined a nice French guy that I had seen several times on the Camino (Johan) for lunch. He started his Camino in a Le Puy France. It’s a gateway to the Camino that is about 750 kilometers before St Jean. So really where I started (Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port) was actually his 1/2-way point. I thought my 800k trek was a lot. Just goes to show, it’s all relative…Wow!
      After leaving Sahagún I continued my hike for a couple more hours to my stop for the evening; Bercianos del Real Camino. I’ve been walking with some of my Camino family from the US (Terry, his granddaughter Emma, and her friend Jack) off and on the past few days. It happens we are staying in the same Albergue this evening. We were all on our phones this evening looking for beds for tomorrow and I found a very reasonable four-bedroom apartment for rent. So tomorrow we are all splitting it along with another pilgrim (Sue) we just met. It should be fun!      Read more

    • Dos PerigrinosTravelerCamino de Santiago Frances

      Day 20: To Terradillos de Los Templarios

      May 31, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 72 °F

      I left the monastery about 7:20 this morning and surprisingly almost immediately ran across a restaurant that was open. So, I sat down a bit for breakfast. Really, it was just bread and coffee because I knew I had about an 18-mile day ahead. Then I headed out of town past a nice tribute to the pilgrims and an old Roman road headed off somewhere. (They don’t build them like that anymore…) I then continued my trek through the Meseta.
      Pretty soon I was out of town and beginning a 17k segment that is stated in the guidebooks that is often without any services. No water, no food, no toilets, nada. Fortunately, it was a flat, easy (if long) walk past grain pastures etc. After a few kilometers there actually was a nice Guardia Civil officer parked in case anyone needed help and a little further there was a pavilion that fortunately was open. It made for a great rest and refresh place. I ran into a couple of members of my more recent pilgrim family (Collin from Austin and Kelly from Atlanta). Of course, I had to photograph some of the beautiful wildflowers along the way as well as the creative rock work from previous pilgrims. As I walked the final hour or so towards my final stop of the day thunderstorms were building around me and the temperature dropped. The cool was nice, but the thunder was a little disconcerting (my metal hiking poles and I were the tallest objects around…), although, the darker sky’s did make for some nice photos. I made it to my albergue “Jacques de Molay” before the rain hit. After dinner it wasn’t too many hours before I was tucked into my bunk to write this and then off to sleep.      Read more

    • Dos PerigrinosTravelerCamino de Santiago Frances

      Day 19: Carrión de Los Condes

      May 30, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 73 °F

      It was a little shorter day today at a little less than 15 miles. It’s officially about 20k but I always manage to get a little distance just walking around. I started off about 7:30 this morning and passed by the XI century church; Iglesia de San Martin (consecrated in 1066) in the warm morning light. Then I passed by a little pilgrim monument in Villovieco. There was a fork in the path pretty early today that would either take you by the road or the river. The river route was only a bit less than 1k longer and shaded so it was an easy choice. Then I stopped for lunch in Villacázar de Sirga. While there, I stepped inside the local church the Santa Maria La Blanca that was built in the last 1/3 of the 13th century to check it out.
      The Knights Templar built it with the help of the Cistercians as literally a church-fortress to protect the pilgrims bound for the holy land. What is truly amazing to me is not just that these amazing structures were built around 1000 years ago… but you run across one in practically every little village.
      Speaking of churches and such, tonight I’m staying in a working Monastery. The Monasterio de Santa Clara. Although few would say I am at all “monk like” I’m pretty sure I slept in a room that has been used for monk or sister’s quarters. I have been keeping my eyes out for Julie Andrews but no sightings yet…      Read more

    • Dos PerigrinosTravelerCamino de Santiago Frances

      Day 18: To Frómista.

      May 29, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 70 °F

      Today was a little bit longer day. It ended up being just over 17 1/2 miles or 28k. The morning started with a pretty steep climb up and then down a big hill that is between Castrojeriz and Frómista. From the top on one side, I could see Castrojeriz through the morning haze where I started this morning, and on the other side, my long path West past multicolored fields I would be walking later. From there, it was (mostly) downhill to Frómista. Shortly after starting out, I entered the Provincia de Palencia. (It’s sort of like crossing state lines.) I have definitely begun my passage through the Meseta of Spain. The land is flattening out and the fields are a rainbow of crops.
      I passed by two more memorials on the hike over the hill. Reminders that life is short. One appeared to be for a 44-year-old young man.
      Again, the pathways were often lined with wildflowers, and some fields were made up entirely of poppies. Beautiful.
      Along the way I passed through the villages of Itero de la Vega and Boadilla del Camino, that made for nice coffee and lunch spots. (In Boadilla del Camino I discovered even the manhole covers have a Camino motif.) The last part of today’s hike was along the canal de Castillo which was a nice shaded hike along a working canal just before crossing the canal into Frómista. After checking into my hostel, I relaxed a bit and then met up with my New Zealand friends for dinner.      Read more

    • Dos PerigrinosTravelerCamino de Santiago Frances

      Day 17: To Castrojeriz

      May 28, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 70 °F

      I was able to get out of my albergue about 7:00 this morning and start my hike to Castrojeriz.
      I had a minor emergency yesterday evening when I discovered I must have left my towel at my previous albergue, (albergues don’t provide towels, they’re strictly BYOT) so I was unable to take a shower and needless to say, every little village in Spain doesn’t sell lightweight fast drying microfiber towels (or any towels for that matter). So, my solution was to stay in an inexpensive hotel this evening and purchase one of their hand towels until I can get something better. (They actually ended up gifting it to me.) Simply going without a shower isn’t really a viable option…

      Shortly after starting out this morning I met Katarina and her daughter Julia from Sweden.
      On the trail today there were more spectacular poppy fields. (I never get tired of those.) so my Swedish friends and I took the opportunity to take each others photos with the pretty background.

      About two and a half hours into todays hike, below us in a little valley, the village of Hontanas suddenly appeared. It was the perfect time to stop, take off our shoes and get some coffee and breakfast before continuing.

      A couple of hours later we came across the Monastery of San Anton ruins. It seemed pretty incongruous to have such a large structure literally in the middle of nowhere. (It was very cool though.)
      A little history….
      The convent was founded in 1146 under the patronage of King Alfonzo VII and was dedicated to care of the pilgrims and treating the “Fire of San Anton”, a desease that spread during the Middle Ages. The huge arched entrance was added in the 1400’s.
      (That’s the end of today’s history lesson….)
      We stopped and took our shoes off for a bit (never miss an opportunity) before heading out again for Castrojeriz

      Approaching the town you see the Castillo (Castle) de Castrojeriz up on the hilltop and a large Catholic Church below surrounded by scattered poppy fields below. (The village climbs up the hill to the left, but you can’t see it in my photo.) After passing the church I made my way up the hill into the village. (When you’re walking, villages seem to always be on hilltops even if they are down in valleys.) Although it was still early afternoon I had walked over 22k and was feeling pretty beat so I settled into my hotel for a (much needed) bath. Then I went down to the bar for the 12€ Menú del Dia (includes the wine) and took the afternoon off. Back to my previous comment of some considering the Meseta to be ‘dull’, it’s actually pretty spectacular in spring.      Read more

    • Dos PerigrinosTravelerCamino de Santiago Frances

      Day 16: To Hornillos del Camino

      May 27, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 73 °F

      This morning I woke up in my comfy hotel and repacked and organized my backpack before meeting one of my Camino friends I’ve been walking with the past few days downstairs for breakfast. Elana from Bulgaria was diagnosed yesterday with tendonitis in her ankle so she is staying off of it, per the free ER Dr’s orders. Ahh… universal health coverage… (Drop by any hospital and they will do what it takes to get you better for free…)

      It’s interesting how people you meet on the Camino disappear over the next or previous hill because of a difference in walking pace or a meal stop and then magically reappear days later. Yesterday, in the Burgos plaza, I ran into a family from New Zealand that Dorothy and I met in SJPDP the evening before we started the Camino. When I arrived at my albergue this afternoon, here they are again! You never know who you may see again, and who you may not. Sorta like life I suppose…

      Back to my Camino, I started a bit late (nearly 9am) walking out of Burgos. It really is a pretty town so I spent a little more time walking around. Leaving town there were a number of art cutouts representing Peregrinos in different styles. When I reached the village of Tardajos there was a festival going on where people were dressed in costumes including the (adorable) children. I asked a local and was told it was an annual local celebration; ‘La Virgin de las Aguas’. (The Virgin of the Waters.)

      Passing through Rabé de las Calzadas there were several murals celebrating the peregrinos and one that confirmed I am between 1/3 and 1/2 the way to Santiago. Yea! One step at a time…
      A few minutes later I passed a small church with a couple of elderly folks sitting on the front porch and a sister in the doorway. I motioned to see if it was ok for me to take a photo and she motioned me in. Once inside she gave me a tiny gold medallion with a hug, then wished me “Buen Camino” and stamped my passport with an image of the medallion and a Peregrino. It instantly became my favorite sello (or seal) for my pilgrims passport. It was very sweet and a moment I won’t forget.

      Today I entered the Meseta. It’s a large fairly flat area in Spain that you walk through on the Camino between Burgos and Leon. Many peregrinos actually skip over it entirely and take a bus to Leon because of its reputation for being hot and visually dull. I would agree with the ‘hot’ description (and I’m here before the really hot months), but I would definitely not call it dull. So, speaking of ‘hot’, I became the coolest peregrino around by putting on my official hiking umbrella with a mounting attachment for my backpack. I may (or may not) have looked cool, but I was cool, and that’s what counts.
      As I walked, I continued past wheat and barley fields and a gazillion wildflowers lining the pathways. Before long I entered Hornillos de las Camino (my shelter for the evening.) As soon as I arrived at my albergue, I dropped off my backpack and then went to the square for a glass of wine.
      That evening at the albergue they served up a great pilgrims dinner including a good salad and the largest iron skillet I’ve ever seen full of Paella. After a great dinner, I was off to bed.      Read more

    • Dos PerigrinosTravelerCamino de Santiago Frances

      Day 15: To Burgos

      May 26, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 64 °F

      I intentionally hiked a longer day yesterday so today would be a “short” 16-kilometer day and I would have time to explore Burgos. I passed one small village Orbaneja Riopoco before entering the outskirts and walking past the airport. After that it was pretty much just business suburbs (and more churches of course) until I got near the old town city center. I went straight to my hotel to drop off my pack and clean up before exploring the old town. I did pass a large outdoor photography exhibit on my way to my hotel.
      Although I really like the group dinners in the albergues, I’m less of a fan of sleeping in a room with multiple bunk beds, so I splurged and used my son's employee discount (he is a cook for a major hotel chain) and booked a nice hotel room. Thank you Dustin! My own room with an en-suite bath was a luxury!
      After settling into my hotel, I went out exploring the old town of Burgos and the Cathedral. Not being critical here, the gates to the old town really reminded me of something you would see at Disneyworld. (Guessing these gates are older…) The first thing you see when entering the old city is the Burgos cathedral. It’s enormous. I purchased a discount peregrino ticket by showing my pilgrims passport and proceeded to walk through the tour. The place is amazing. As I’ve previously expressed, I’m not religious and certainly not Catholic (although I did sing for a while in a Catholic choir…. It’s a long story…) still it was impossible not to see the beauty and feel the majesty of the art and architecture. Afterwards I had a nice dinner and Vino Tinto at an outdoor bar on the plaza before retiring to my (wonderful) hotel room and a hot bath.      Read more

    • Dos PerigrinosTravelerCamino de Santiago Frances

      Day 14: To Cardeñuela Riopoco

      May 25, 2023 in Spain ⋅ 🌬 63 °F

      Today was a nice but challenging day. I started off about 8:00 this morning, left an apple from my pack for the horse, and then walked for about 6.5 hours (not counting lunch, visiting, etc. for a total of just over 30 kilometers or nearly 19 miles.) I really pushed a bit more than I have been, because I wanted to get close to Burgos so I will have time to explore the city tomorrow. I also splurged and actually booked a ‘real’ hotel for tomorrow night. The weather was nice today and one of my Camino family caught up with me, (Elena from Bulgaria) so we walked together for the first part of the day, then I walked with my Swedish friends Maria and Oso for the last part. As I’ve mentioned previously, I always tend to walk faster when I’m around others.
      One thing I have been doing the past few days is carrying my entire backpack instead of getting a few pounds off my back by forwarding a daypack to the next destination. The majority of people don’t actually carry everything on their back that they need. Most just carry a day pack and there are services that will take your big pack to your next albergue for 6€. Since I prefer the feel of my ‘real backpack’, I’ve been sorta doing the reverse by carrying my backpack and forwarding a little daypack with dirty clothes, electronic cords etc. and saving a few pounds. It is nice getting rid of the extra pounds, but the downside is you must decide in advance where you are going to want to stop for the evening instead of letting your body decide. The reality is however, they say “we carry our fears” and one of my fears is that I will arrive in a village and there won’t be an available bed for me. So, I will probably continue to book a bed the evening before to know for sure. Tomorrow, Burgos.      Read more

    • Dos PerigrinosTravelerCamino de Santiago Frances

      Day 13: To Espinosa del Camino

      May 24, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 63 °F

      Today was a day of rain, flowers and reflection.
      I left the Albergue about 7:15 this morning and before very long I was taking off my pack to put on my poncho in the rain, it stayed on until I was just a few kilometers from Espinosa del Camino about 27 kilometers (17miles) later.
      Despite the rain, it was a nice day because every few kilometers I walked through a tiny town and would take off my shoes for a moment and enjoy a cup of coffee. I also ran into a few friends during my coffee stops and that’s always a highlight. (That also no doubt added to my time, but it was well worth the breaks.) Perhaps because I hiked alone all day, today was a longer day. (I’ve found I’m a slightly slower walker than many, but if I’m with someone, I will match their pace.)
      One of the remarkable things about the Camino is the amount of resources and support it gets from the communities. In addition to the artwork you often pass, (I passed several murals today celebrating the pilgrims), there are regular fuentes (water fountains) and amazingly well marked trails (it's hard to miss the yellow arrows (or inlaid bronze shells on the sidewalks in larger cities)) that are well kept, mowed and some even have stone pathways where regular paths may be subject to erosion. Many paths seem to follow rural roadways, but many no doubt cross private land.
      Another random example today of supporting the pilgrims, this afternoon I passed a chair placed under a tree, literally in the middle of nowhere, just to provide a place to rest if you need it.
      Today someone in front of me was leaving little bouquets of wildflowers in the road. At first I thought someone had dropped one, then after passing others on the trail it was obvious it was a pattern (a gift to the walkers). Although I only photographed a couple, I passed at least 4 of them on todays hike. I have no idea who left them, but I do know they no doubt brought smiles to many Peregrinos following behind them.
      Near the end of the day, I met a nice horse and rider that is doing the Camino. When I arrived at my Albergue “La Taberna”, I discovered the rider is staying here also.
      (The horse is sleeping outside.)      Read more

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