The big one

A 255-day adventure by Katarina Read more

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Day 16
Friday, November 24, 2017 at 7:25 PM
☀️ 16 °C
Altitude: 31 m
Argentina Cabildo -34.6086, -58.3729534°36’31” S 58°22’23” W
Demonstration for women rights
November 24, 2017 in Argentina ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C
One if many demonstrations at the Plaza de Mayo in Buenos Aires. This one was for women rights. There was so many people hanging around, sipping maté and shouting. There is no occasion in Argentina where you would not find asado or parilla.Read more
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Day 18
Sunday, November 26, 2017 at 1:54 PM
☀️ 26 °C
Altitude: 38 m
Argentina San Telmo -34.6152, -58.3716634°36’55” S 58°22’18” W
Sunday San Telmo Fair
November 26, 2017 in Argentina ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C
Almost 3 km of Defensa street gets filled up with thousand of people every Sunday for the regular market day. The atmosphere is electrifying, in parking spots you discover temporary dancing floor with local tango dancers where smoke from parilla mixes with music. Shame we could not get anything, as the choice was plentyful.Read more
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Day 19
Monday, November 27, 2017 at 1:33 PM
☀️ 22 °C
Altitude: 17 m
Argentina Retiro -34.57623, -58.3857734°34’34” S 58°23’9” W
To the south! Vamos a la Patagonia
November 27, 2017 in Argentina ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C
After great couple of days in Buenos Aires, we are finally leaving big cities behind and heading south to Puerto Madryn. The journey that will take us 19 hours on the bus shall drop of us in the capital for wildlife watching. With any luck, we should be able to see whales, dolphins and hopefully some penguins!Read more
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Day 20
Tuesday, November 28, 2017 at 4:08 PM
⛅ 7 °C
Altitude: 15 m
Argentina Puerto Madryn -42.76281, -65.0351342°45’46” S 65°2’6” W
Puerto Madryn
November 28, 2017 in Argentina ⋅ ⛅ 7 °C
Lovely little town located 19 hours drive from Buenos Aires. It lives by wildlife watching and every year thousands of tourist visit this place hoping to spot a whale or dolphin or penguins. We have spent the first night in the camp that was about 5 km from the town. Once we have returned from the tour in Peninsula Valdes, we have found quite few dogs right next to our tent. Thankfully the camp had a WiFi and we booked ourselves in the cheapest hostel there was available. It the ed our to be directly in the centre and short walk from there, right on the beach we have found our empanada guy. The beach was filled with guys on a windsurf and dogs. The sky at the sunset was so beautiful and we couldn't help to walk along the beach.Read more
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Day 20
Tuesday, November 28, 2017 at 7:18 PM
☁️ 27 °C
Altitude: 14 m
Argentina Punta Cuevas -42.78013, -65.0180842°46’48” S 65°1’5” W
Beach finds
November 28, 2017 in Argentina ⋅ ☁️ 27 °C
The beach in Puerto Madryn was full of shells and dogs. But we have managed to find few other things while walking at the sunset.
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Day 21
Wednesday, November 29, 2017 at 12:20 PM
☀️ 11 °C
Altitude: Sea level
South Atlantic Ocean -42.86542, -64.3974942°51’56” S 64°23’51” W
Whale watching trip
November 29, 2017, South Atlantic Ocean ⋅ ☀️ 11 °C
As we have received a 20% discount from Mr. Bottazzi who we have met on our way to Puerto Madryn, we decided to add a whale-watching trip to the one in Peninsula Valdes. We have spent about two hours on the gulf searching for them. We got lucky enough to see dolphins that were showing off right in front of our boat and in a distance a southern-right whale. It wasn't the as great as on the pictures we have seen but it was still amazing. Our tour guide told us all about their habits and rituals when they arrive. Next time we have to come in September when they are visible directly from the town's beach.Read more
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Day 21
Wednesday, November 29, 2017 at 1:40 PM
🌬 17 °C
Altitude: 15 m
Argentina Punta Cantor -42.50728, -63.6059642°30’26” S 63°36’21” W
Peninsula Valdes
November 29, 2017 in Argentina ⋅ 🌬 17 °C
After reading so much about it, we finally got to the peninsula that is famous for its wildlife.
We have visited several spots and our guide did a great job at pointing out guanacos, sea lions and penguins.
It was such a treat to see all those animals in their natural and protected environment.Read more
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Day 23
Friday, December 1, 2017 at 12:20 PM
☀️ 19 °C
Altitude: 36 m
Argentina Trelew -43.21801, -65.3000143°13’5” S 65°18’0” W
On a way to Punta Tombo
December 1, 2017 in Argentina ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C
Another trip, for me very much anticipated was towards a huge penguin colony.
On a way we stopped at a huge dinosaur statue that is tribute to a skeleton th at was found nearby and I got to try maté for the very first time. It tastes like a strong green tea and was quite nice.Read more
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Day 23
Friday, December 1, 2017 at 1:25 PM
🌬 17 °C
Altitude: 25 m
Argentina Departamento de Rawson -43.68192, -65.341243°40’55” S 65°20’28” W
Sea Lion colony on a way to Punta Tombo
December 1, 2017 in Argentina ⋅ 🌬 17 °C
Another stop was a beach with several sea lions lying around. We got to see them at the Peninsula Valdes but this was much closer.
Our guide explained how to approach them without disturbing the animals and we got as close as 5 m from them.
They were making funny noise, snorting out salt from their nostrils. Most of them just relaxed on the beach but few of them swam in the sea and were much faster.Read more
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Day 23
Friday, December 1, 2017 at 3:32 PM
🌬 17 °C
Altitude: 6 m
Argentina Fondeadero Homero -44.04456, -65.2223644°2’40” S 65°13’20” W
Punta Tombo Penguin Colony
December 1, 2017 in Argentina ⋅ 🌬 17 °C
We have finally arrived!
The colony of around 250 000 penguins is the biggest one in South America.
The minute we got there, we started to taking pictures.
As it was the time when the penguins had chicks we could witness feeding of them and popping their little heads from the nest.
We have spent several hours walking around, laughing at those little guys making their way and giving them a way.
I think I took around hundreds of pictures and just couldn't stop.
Definitely one of the best experiences we had in South America so far.Read more
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Day 25
Sunday, December 3, 2017 at 1:25 PM
☀️ 18 °C
Altitude: 12 m
Argentina Río Gallegos -51.62752, -69.2474751°37’39” S 69°14’51” W
Rio Gallegos
December 3, 2017 in Argentina ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C
After 17 hours journey from Puerto Madryn, we have arrived to Rio Gallegos. This is place where north American bandits Butch Cassidy and Sundance Kid robbed Banca Londres. The town is now dedicated to petrol industry and therefore not too turistic. We have seen only the coach station before we head to the most South point of our journey, Punta Arenas. The big shop right next to the station is great source of food while you are waiting.Read more
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Day 25
Sunday, December 3, 2017 at 9:39 PM
☀️ 19 °C
Altitude: 160 m
Argentina Monte Aymond -52.14024, -69.5130852°8’25” S 69°30’47” W
On a way to Patagonia
December 3, 2017 in Argentina ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C
After hot days and nights in Puerto Madryn, we were finally ready to head to Patagonia.
We had our first workaway ahead of us and first experience of Chile.
I got almost arrested as I had a bulb of garlic that I forgot about.
Chileano are very strict about the customs and a doggie did discover what I was hiding. Thankfully O got away with filling up a new form.
Then we just over-took a house on the road and Chile, here we are!Read more
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Day 29
Thursday, December 7, 2017 at 5:30 PM
🌬 11 °C
Altitude: 16 m
Chile Rada Punta Arenas -53.16297, -70.9088353°9’47” S 70°54’32” W
Punta Arenas
December 7, 2017 in Chile ⋅ 🌬 11 °C
The southenmost city on our journey became our home for three weeks. It had definitely more European feel and turned out to be a great place to chill for a while.
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Day 31
Saturday, December 9, 2017 at 11:50 PM
🌙 7 °C
Altitude: 12 m
Chile Rada Punta Arenas -53.16074, -70.9080553°9’39” S 70°54’29” W
Karaoke night
December 9, 2017 in Chile ⋅ 🌙 7 °C
A bit spontaneous night. We had a bottle of red at the mirrador and then decided to check out the nightlife in Punta Arenas!
Not to go into too much details, we ended up having a fantastic night with quite few beers.
We found place called La Tabla where we grabbed last table. It was a karaoke night and after second beer, we starting research onto what we could sing.
We sang a Mamma Mia from ABBA and thankfully we couldn't hear ourselves.
The morning next day was a bit tough as I slept about 3 hours before serving breakfast and Petr got a bit conquered by cerveza Torres del Paine :)Read more
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Day 33
Monday, December 11, 2017 at 12:04 PM
🌬 12 °C
Altitude: 20 m
Chile Cabo San Isidro -53.78495, -70.9750653°47’6” S 70°58’30” W
Faro San Isodoro
December 11, 2017 in Chile ⋅ 🌬 12 °C
The southernmost lighthouse in the American mainland! All together 33 km walk in new shoes in absolutely stunning countryside. It was so peaceful and quiet. On the way there we haven't met single person. The dolphins swam in the bay and on the beach was random things to find as skeleton of unspecified animal! Would a beautiful part of the world!Read more
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Day 41
Tuesday, December 19, 2017 at 2:14 PM
🌙 14 °C
Altitude: 7 m
Chile Río Marazzi -53.46492, -69.3082553°27’54” S 69°18’30” W
King penguin colony
December 19, 2017 in Chile ⋅ 🌙 14 °C
The best Xmas present ever! Visit to the king penguin colony in Tierra del Fuego! We could spend all day watching this amazing creatures! They are so funny when they are walking around, feeding their chicks or having a little fight among themselves. The fluffy chicks is just the cutest thing ever! I can honestly say! We love penguins!Read more
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Day 42
Wednesday, December 20, 2017 at 3:10 PM
🌬 9 °C
Altitude: 304 m
Chile Provincia de Magallanes -53.14263, -70.9955953°8’33” S 70°59’44” W
Reserva de Magallanes
December 20, 2017 in Chile ⋅ 🌬 9 °C
Beautiful but very windy walk to the Reserva Nacional Magallanes! The views of the entire Punta Arenas and Tierra del Fuego at the back make the walk worth it!
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Day 44
Friday, December 22, 2017 at 5:15 PM
⛅ 9 °C
Altitude: 28 m
Chile Punta Arenas -53.15821, -70.9119653°9’30” S 70°54’43” W
Chocolate cafe
December 22, 2017 in Chile ⋅ ⛅ 9 °C
We have been walking around this one for ages. But on out last day in Punta Arenas, we just had to pay a visit to this amazingly looking place. We have scooped last two places and dived into menu of purr indulgence. Everything looked and smelled amazing! We have decided for a slice of chocolate cake that was so rico and muy grande and two cups of hot chocolate. OMG! It was super sweet and super delicious! If we ever return, we are coming back to this place!Read more
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Day 45
Saturday, December 23, 2017 at 12:40 PM
🌬 10 °C
Altitude: 11 m
Chile Rada Punta Arenas -53.15979, -70.9039753°9’35” S 70°54’14” W
Leaving Punta Arenas
December 23, 2017 in Chile ⋅ 🌬 10 °C
After almost three weeks so far South, we are leaving! We haven't just found place to stand still for a while on our travels, we have found home, work and new friends. We will miss Francisco and his passion for bread, Samuel and Marcela that always had a smile on their face and all the nice people who joined us at the hostel! Now it's time to continue our adventure and head to the North!Read more
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Day 46
Sunday, December 24, 2017 at 9:15 AM
⛅ -1 °C
Altitude: 128 m
Chile Ascencio -50.9698, -72.8727150°58’11” S 72°52’22” W
Arriving to Torres del Paine
December 24, 2017 in Chile ⋅ ⛅ -1 °C
After 3 weeks waiting in Punta Arenas and months since we have booked the trip, we were finally on a way to the national park. We were lucky and we could see the peaks where we were heading from far away and the weather looked promising. At the entrance to the park We have been explained the park rules and paid the fee. CH$ 21 000 for the foreigners and off we go. We grabbed a last proper coffee before heading to out 9 days journey.Read more
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Day 46
Sunday, December 24, 2017 at 12:00 PM
⛅ 17 °C
Altitude: 157 m
Chile La Victorina -50.8567, -72.8911350°51’24” S 72°53’28” W
Day 1 Torres central - Campaneto Seron
December 24, 2017 in Chile ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C
First day was quite an easy hike. It started with a bit of hill but continued along meadows filled with daisies and river that lead us all the way to the camp Seron where we would stay out first night.Read more
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Day 46
Sunday, December 24, 2017 at 6:30 PM
⛅ -1 °C
Altitude: 233 m
Chile Torres del Paine -50.88776, -72.7239950°53’16” S 72°43’26” W
Christmas Eve
December 24, 2017 in Chile ⋅ ⛅ -1 °C
After arriving to the first camp on our journey, we got to relax a bit. We pitched the tent and set to cook a Christmas dinner. It wasn't the usual several courses dinner we are used to back home. Even though It was Czech! Knedlo vepřo zelo from a Czech outdoor company followed by assorted cheese fron Puerto Natales, sausages and bag of crisps. The weather was great and sun just kept shining. We did not have snow but it felt as white Xmas thanks to thousands of daisies that covered all the meadows around.Read more
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Day 47
Monday, December 25, 2017 at 10:00 AM
🌬 17 °C
Altitude: 145 m
Chile La Victorina -50.87048, -72.8906950°52’14” S 72°53’26” W
Day 2 Campaneto Seron - Refugio Dickson
December 25, 2017 in Chile ⋅ 🌬 17 °C
A late start again for the two of us. I think we left as one of the last ones from the camp. On second day the 17,4 km trek took us again around meadows full of daisies and beautiful scenery. As the weather was really nice, we were lucky enough to see the towers from the other side. After an uphill trek, beautiful view of Lago Paine and the mountains opened ahead of us. The camp is set directly next to the Lago Dickson surrounded by mountains. Couple of times throughout our hike we have seen helicopter flying above us towards the mountains.Read more
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Day 47
Monday, December 25, 2017 at 5:30 PM
⛅ 22 °C
Altitude: 219 m
Chile Torres del Paine -50.88201, -73.0677250°52’55” S 73°4’4” W
Refugio Dickson
December 25, 2017 in Chile ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C
After a very steep hill down, we have arrived to the camp. We have signed once again with the CONAF and checked in to the camp. The lovely chap who was working here smelled of marijuana and was very helpful. We set up our tent and while doing so, we heared the helicopter coming. That kind of answered our question of the day. We have ran to pick up GoPro and phone to take pics and video. The helicopter that brought supplies for building another shelter did not land. It was fantastic experience. For dinner was usual packed instant food and early bed.Read more
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Day 48
Tuesday, December 26, 2017 at 11:30 AM
⛅ 21 °C
Altitude: 411 m
Chile Torres del Paine -50.92088, -73.0929150°55’15” S 73°5’34” W
Day 3 Refugio Dickson - Los Perros
December 26, 2017 in Chile ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C
The third day was starting rather unpleasantly. First of all we had to hike uphill to the Mirador Valle de los Perros. With the backpack it wasn't the easiest but we have managed and were rewarded by wonderful views. The rest of the 11 km journey was not that difficult and we could enjoy the fresh air and not that many people on the trail. Just before the camp a little detour took as to a mirrador of the Glaciar Los Perros and the laguna that was formed underneath it.Read more
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