Stray - Bangkok to Chiang Mai Part II

We were woken by the strangled chorus of an attendant selling orange juice through the carriage from 5:30am onwards. Yet we swiftly arrived in Chiang Mai, jumping down from our berths, hauling our bags out of stowage and descending the carriage steps.

Even by 8:00am the sun's heat was ferocious against our bodies. After 24 hours of travel in such conditions we chose to spend the day in close proximity to a swimming pool. It seems incredible to say as sun-loving English but we were relieved for the sparse shelter offered by clouds from the pounding heat.

In the afternoon Kim went for a traditional all-body Thai massage, which in Chiang Mai is 60 minutes for the price of 30 minutes in Bangkok. Taken into a room separated into 3 areas by white curtains, each with bed on the floor, and changing into the cotton top and trousers provided, Kim lay down and had the wear and tear of backpacking nursed out of her muscles and joints. Although it tickled in areas on her legs and back, she felt (and looked to Alex) very relaxed afterwards.

Every Sunday Chiang Mai holds a night market, which includes an array of food stalls and we ventured through these for our dinner. Eager to sample as much a variety as possible on our budget, we ate spicy sausage filled with meat and rice, potato and vegetable deep fried cake covered with a curry sauce, partridge eggs and coconut pancakes served in banana leaf boats, deep fried shrimp and naturally, chicken Pad Thai. For dessert we had freshly-made fruit yogurt shakes.

Squeezing back through the market crowds we moved along the streets, where men our fathers' age drank beer and played pool with young women (and possibly ladyboys), to the Chiang Mai 'Ladyboy Cabaret'.

With a ear-drum perforating soundtrack, the performers took to the stage in sequins, feathers and dress. The audience, who was almost entirely White Caucasian, sat back drinking Chang beer with varying degrees of fascination and bemusement. The performers clearly aware of the (male) insecurities and playing upon them but all in good spirit.

The transformations were varied, with some displaying the femininity of a hairy arsed plumber in drag and others with naturally striking feminine faces, cleverly enhanced with make-up and clothing. This was most noticeable during a solo performance, where under spotlight she removed her make-up and wig, changed from a sequinned dress to a man's suit, whilst miming to Frank Sinatra's 'My Way'.

There were also those who had used cosmetic surgery to give them breasts, larger bottoms and more feminine facial features but unfortunately this made them appear unnatural and even freakish in appearance. Nevertheless it was fun to experience what, for better or worse, has become synonymous with the country's culture.Leggi altro