Stray - Hoi An to Hue

We drove through a wet gloom to Danang, where we stopped at a marble workshop to view artworks that feature regularly both outside and inside homes and businesses. After being quarried, the slabs of milk are hand chiselled and sanded into the detailed features of Buddhas, lions, dragons and much more. Those completed stood on parade in the slick air, some as tall as 3 metres and as wide as front doors. Inside the workshop, chunks of a amethyst and other stones glistened in the electric light that reflected off the smooth surfaces of multi-coloured marble globes, the lines and swirls appearing like the gaseous surfaces of Jupiter and Saturn.

Our destination, Hue, was the capital of the imperial Nguyen dynasty that ruled Vietnam until World War Two. Despite damage caused during the Vietnam War, centuries old architecture remains in and around the city.

Crossing the Perfume (Hurong) River, so named as autumn flowers fall into the water to give a perfume-like aroma, we arrived before the squat terraces of the Cot Co (Flag Tower), its giant bronze cannons once protecting the ancient citadel. Moving under its watchful gaze and across the moat we came to stand before the broad colourful gates of the Ngo Mon (Royal Palace). Before it, a second moat lined with water lilies was cast grey by the steep stone walls, which were bathed in the late afternoon sun. Carpenters and roofers clambered around the palace's upper reaches to restore it to its former glory.

Walking back under a setting sun we past rusting war machines of the Vietnam War, abandoned by the departing Americans and now proudly displayed as a reminder of Communist Vietnam's victory. We were going to post another playlist of music that has accompanied us on this leg of our adventure but far better is the soundtrack to the brilliant Robin Williams film, 'Good Morning Vietnam' (https://open.spotify.com/user/somebodyalreadyha…). Better still, watch the film for a satire on the Vietnam War and Williams' comic genius.Læs mere