A semi-serious adventure

kwietnia - października 2015
  • Kim and Alex
186-dniowa przygoda według Kim and Czytaj więcej
  • Kim and Alex

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  • 180ślady stóp
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  • Kiwi Exp. - Auckland to Hot Water Beach

    10 czerwca 2015, Nowa Zelandia ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

    Going new places and meeting new faces we travelled southeast bound to Hot Water Beach on a larger and fuller Kiwi Experience bus. We were now travelling on the main circuit of the Kiwi Experience that the buses run around the country. There are a large number of Brits including a sprinkling of Hooray Henrys but they get everywhere. We spent the time to our destination sharing travelling stories and how we all ended up in New Zealand.

    After zig-zagging up and down switch back roads on forest covered hillside we came upon on the Coromandel peninsula. Off the bus and walking along a trail to our first destination, Cathedral Cove, we passed an area of land that has been designated as a memorial to the fallen soldiers of the First World War. The plan is to plant 3000 trees to represent the lives lost but currently there are crosses made from reeds lining the trail path on either side. This simple but haunting representation of loss made Alex think of how lucky he and the other men in our group were for being alive now and not 100 years before when he, Jamie and Pierrick would not have been travelling round the world but as young men would instead have found themselves in the mud of France and Belgium.

    The trail dropped down through the tree-studded cliffs to the white sands below. There stood Cathedral Cove, a cavernous tunnel of cathedral proportions (duh) carved out of the cliffside by the sea. The shuffles of our feet through the sand echoed inside the damp of the cove as the smell of the sea wandered through on the breeze. As the sun was setting we returned to our lodgings for a communal dinner with our dorm room mates.

    Afterwards we went back out into the black of the evening in search Hot Water Beach. More specifically, the hot springs that can be found in certain spots under the sand, which send hot water up to heat the surface. Armed with shovels the group set about digging self-made spas, which we then sat in as the hot water rose from the sand into a shallow pool. The moon appeared to race through the moving cloud above and the tide crashed onto the shore in front of us.

    The temperature of the water and sand was certainly hot and too hot to stand on in some places. It was a challenge to find just the right temperature and people were hopping over the sand as they found spots too hot or cold to stand. The evening sea breeze hungrily snapped around the walls of the spas but the hot water kept the real cold at bay like a fire normally would. It was a memorable experience, made more so by the fact that we were doing it in winter darkness.
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  • Kiwi Exp. - Hot Water Beach to Waitomo

    11 czerwca 2015, Nowa Zelandia ⋅ 🌙 14 °C

    We both slept lightly after a night in our dorm (Alex got up at 5:00am). This is as good time as any to explain that along with Pierrick, Jamie and Abi, the other member of our travelling family is Gali, a young Israeli woman who is travelling between finishing her compulsory 3 years service in the Israeli Army and starting her new job and life in Paris. The absence of mentioning Gali before has not been intentional and she has very much been part of our group. However when travelling you will meet many people, some very fleetingly and others you will stay with as you move about. Yet it is not always certain for how long.

    We left Hot Water Beach behind as the sun was still rising over the waters, moving further south onto Waitomo, stopping to walk along the trail and swing bridges of the Karangahake Reserve. Once at Waitomo we went underground in search of its famous glow worm caves. Kitted out with wet suits, helmets and most importantly guides from a local company we descended into rushing waters of the caves, lit only by the lamps on her helmets.

    The noise of the water was deafening in places and we struggled to keep our balance over wet rock and the strong current that flowed around us. Our hands clasped at oily rock, trying to maintain a grip and remain upright. The ceiling would rise and fall to become as tall as a building and so low that we had to float underneath on the inflated rubber tubing that we carried with us, our faces just inches from the rock face.

    It became necessary for us to jump down waterfalls and to do so our guides would get us to turn our backs to the falls with the tubing held behind us before jumping backwards to land afloat on the water. This took nerve and trust in our guides as we were descending into black water and the unknown below. It was an exhilarating experience that revved your adrenaline. This was needed as the temperature inside the caves with all its water was cold even with the protection of our wetsuits.

    In contrast to the excitement of the waterfalls was the serene calm felt as we turned off our lamps and floated in complete darkness to gaze upon the glow worms on the ceilings above us. They appeared like a sprinkling of stars that glowed a bluish haze. Only our breathing and the drip of water from above could be heard.

    When we ascended back out of the cave, sunset had been and gone so the darkness of the cave continued. This caused some confusion as the presence of trees made it appear as if we had entered an underground forest. The hardest part of all was yet to come, with us having to take off our cold wet suits outside. We shivered and struggled to pull the clinging material away from our bodies before rushing into the embrace of hot showers. This with hot soup brought our body temperatures safely back up. It was smiles all round as we relived our experience through the photos taken by our guides along the way (we were not permitted to take our own cameras) before returning to our hostel for dinner and sleep.
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  • Kiwi Exp. - Waitomo to Rotorua

    12 czerwca 2015, Nowa Zelandia ⋅ ☀️ 13 °C

    We began the day by taking a short hike through the nearby Ruakuri Reserve. This would not have been particularly noteworthy had Alex not smacked his head on the hanging rock face of a cave ceiling. Swearing and bleeding but still walking, Alex will now be more attentive and move out of the way of large rocks.

    With Alex nursing his head we travelled to the Hobbiton movie set, where Kim was in her element exploring the neat gardens and hobbit holes as seen in the films. After the Lord of the Rings trilogy, the set, then made from plywood and polystyrene was taken down. However for the Hobbit films it was rebuilt as a lasting structure for people to visit after filming ended. We wandered through the scenery of the books, made famous by the films, along paths, through orchards and past colourful doorways to Bag End itself. From this vantage point you look out across Hobbiton, over its pond and Party Tree, toward the river with its working watermill and The Green Dragon Pub. At the pub we drank amber ale and ate steaming steak pie before leaving the fantasy world behind.

    We rolled onward to Rotorua from where we entered the replica Pre-European Maori village, Tamaki, for our overnight Maori cultural experience. We had heard that this was highly rated and we were not disappointed. Originally created by two Maori brothers who wished to share their culture 26 years ago, it offers visitors the chance to engage in Maori culture as well as stay overnight at the village. Our accommodation was a ‘Wharemoe’, a traditional wooden carved sleeping house, albeit with the modern trappings of electricity and beds.

    We were greeted by a display of the traditional Maori challenge, which was to determine whether visitors came in peace or war. The Maori warriors, adorned with their facial tattoos and brandishing their Taiaha weaponry with a roaring chorus of their challenge, made an intimidating spectacle. You can only imagine that it would have been 'brown trousers' for the British emissaries and soldiers who first engaged with the Maori tribes in the 19th century.

    After this and further demonstrations of Maori culture, we were invited to eat a delicious ‘Hangi’ feast, which included meats and vegetables cooked in the ground. Alex ate his body weight in New Zealand lamb and still ate the pavlova and steam pudding for dessert before being invited by our hosts to undertake a topless Haka (ceremonial war dance) with the other males in our group. We spent the rest of the evening into the early hours of the morning drinking beer by the fire and in outdoor hot tubs under the trees and stars above.
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  • Kiwi Exp. - Rotorua to Taupo

    13 czerwca 2015, Nowa Zelandia ⋅ 🌬 10 °C

    The morning was greeted with some fragile looks after the late night/early morning hot tub and beers. Reluctantly leaving Tamaki village behind us, there was an option to visit TePuia, Rotorua’s geothermal park, however we chose not to after seeing so much of this when in the USA. Instead we chose to hike through the area’s Redwoods park, so called because – you guessed it – the presence of Redwood trees. This was something we had not been able to do in California and wanted to see these giants of nature up close.

    A morning mist still lingered between the trees as the forest enveloped behind us. Although there were other people out, a great silence still held court, causing you to whisper your sentences as your footsteps were cushioned by the soft ground beneath. A damp smell of wood sat on the air as we crept between the red sentinels. The Redwoods came in different sizes but all shot up to the sky from thick trunks that signalled strength and age. Along the way we crossed a small body of water, made a garish blue by the local geothermal activity, which created a colourful scene with the evergreen of the ferns in contrast to the slate sky above.

    After this it was a short drive to our destination, Taupo, which sits next to the lake of the same name. The grey waters of the bay were chopping in a strong breeze as we arrived and were informed that the nearby Tongariro Alpine Crossing (an 8 hour hike through epic scenery including Mt Ngauruhoe - Mt Doom in Lord of the Rings) was closed due to severe weather. This will now have to be something that we hope to do when we returned north to Auckland next month. For the remainder of the day we relaxed in the warmth of the quiet town, recovering from last night and planning our adventures to come.
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  • Taupo

    14 czerwca 2015, Nowa Zelandia ⋅ 🌬 10 °C

    As the Tongorario Alpine Crossing was closed due to severe weather we chose to hike to the Huka Falls. However we deliberately took our time in doing so after a week of near constant travel. Taking the trail parallel to the Waikato River, which flows into Lake Taupo, our expectations were more for a solid hike than the falls themselves. Admittedly, our excitement at seeing the falls was somewhat muted due to having already seen a number in New Zealand already and likely more to come. Yet we were surprised by the colour and the power of the Huka Falls when they came into view. The deep turquoise of the river is sucked into a narrow corridor of rock where it is thrashed into a white frenzy before being projected out as if from a tap. The noise is thunderous, eclipsing the wind and wildlife around it.

    Once back in Tapou we decided to visit it's own hot water beach, curious to see how it compared to what we experienced on the Coromandel peninsula. We walked along the shoreline of Lake Taupo, which is the crater of a dormant super volcano. It is so big that you can fit Singapore into it and when it last erupted over 1000 years ago, there were reports of ash falling in China. Luckily there were no eruptions today but we were disappointed to find that what little hot water was present at high tide, was scalding in temperature. So instead of bathing we sat at its edge and watched the sun set as gulls and ducks paddled at the tide's edge.

    We returned to our hostel for dinner and a night in with a film. It felt surreal yet relaxing to be doing something so familiar to being at home after so many new experiences.
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  • Kiwi Exp. - Taupo to River Valley

    15 czerwca 2015, Nowa Zelandia ⋅ 🌬 7 °C

    We continued southward toward our last destination on New Zealand's North Island as well as the country's capital, Wellington. However before this we would be staying the night at the remote River Valley lodge near Taihape.

    On the way to River Valley we stopped at the Tongorariro National Park. Despite the Alpine Crossing still being closed, we could hike through some of the park. We took a short trail to, you guessed it, Tawhai Falls. We walked through a landscape similar to Dartmoor in November as the rain came at us sideways. You could see in places where the scenery may have been used for scenes in Lord of the Rings where Frodo and Sam begin their journey into Mordor.

    When we returned to the bus, Jared, our driver, told us that he had previously had two very big Lord of the Rings fans on his bus. These fans were so big that they not only purchased a replica Ring from Hobbiton for several hundreds of NZ dollars but then chartered a private helicopter for thousands of NZ dollars to take them up to Mt Ngauruhoe (Mt Doom in the films) to have their pictures taken in poses similar to those in the film. Geeked out.

    We took a small road that switched back and forth around and down hillsides into River Valley. We got as close as we could but a jeep from the lodge still had to take our rucksacks the last 2-300m of steep track that we trudged down on foot. The rain continued to follow us but the fire in the lodge threw out a warm embrace as we entered. The smells of dinner and the shiny clink of glass from the bar greeted us furthermore.

    It was Gali's last night with us before returning for home so we celebrated with happy hour jugs of beer and drinking games that including trying to pick a matchbox up with your mouth from behind a chair from a starting position of sitting and not touching the floor throughout. Also trying to get under a large wide table without touching the floor. Sounds stupid now but at the time, very fun.
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  • Kiwi Exp. - River Valley to Wellington

    16 czerwca 2015, Nowa Zelandia ⋅ ☁️ 10 °C

    It was a cold wet morning in River Valley as we got up to meet the day. We shared a dorm with Pierrick and a South Korean, Chang, who is not on our bus but also happened to be staying at the lodge. Chang was very pleasant but snored like a buzz saw, so much so that it even woke Alex.

    After last night's drinking game antics our bodies were marked with bumps and bruises where gravity had got the better of us when trying to get matchboxes from chairs and get under tables without touching the floor. Alcohol had dulled any injury at the time letting us believe we should have another go...

    After breakfast we took a walk with Gali and Abi in the crisp morning air. We were given a lift out of the valley on the floor of a staff van that threw us around as the chassis bounced over unmade track. Let out at the top of the valley we walked back to the lodge. Sheep grazed on the green hillsides around us whilst in the distance the white cold of mountains and grey frost on alpine forests reminded us how cold it was. Here the road was tarmac and the decline gentle but on the final 2-300m it turned to gravel and became much steeper. The decline pushed our feet forward so we felt as if we were tip-toeing down the track. When we all left the lodge to get back on the bus at the top of this track we were panting for air by the time we reached the top.

    Even by the admittance of our driver, Jared, the day was an uneventful drive to Wellington, although to lighten this we did stop at a large adventure playground with equipment for all ages. We swarmed into the park like children; running on giant hamster wheels and through swing bridges; screaming down tube slides and zip lines; swinging from monkey bars and ropes. It was a great way to burn off some energy built up from a long bus ride.

    That wasn't the end of our exercise however as when we made our way to our hostel it included an unexpected steep climb, this time with the full weight of our rucksacks. The fresh air and the exercise still coursed through us as we sank into our bed and a deep sleep.
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  • Wellington

    17 czerwca 2015, Nowa Zelandia ⋅ ☀️ 5 °C

    The sun invited us out into a bright blue Wellington morning, making it ideal for climbing up Mt Victoria for views over the city. The short but steep climb brought us to a viewing platform giving 360 degree views over the city and surrounding mountains. The bay glistened as tankers and yachts navigated the waters. The network of streets and buildings sat in contrast with the deep green of the wooded hills.

    We returned to street level to stroll along the marina where bird life vied with each other for the possibility of scraps from our lunch. Turning back into the high rising office blocks and shops we took the landmark bright red cable car up out of the small city to the top of the hill and Wellington's botanical gardens. Plaques on park benches reminded us of New Zealand's history as a destination for immigrants as well as refugees. One bench is dedicated to an Austrian couple with a Jewish surname who left Vienna in 1938. Reading this we imagined how frightening Austria would have been in 1938 to the extent that you would travel to one of the furthest destinations in the world.

    We walked back to the city through the park with its gardens, cold and silent in the winter afternoon. We passed through a cemetery of old names and dates in marble and stone before coming across the parliament buildings with its 'beehive' architecture. After seeing a number of cinemas and advertisements for film releases, our group realised that we wanted to relive our childhoods and see 'Jurassic World'.

    Like when we sat in to watch television the other night, it felt surreal because it was something we might do at home but it was great fun, particularly to do as a group on a winter's night in Wellington. Alex kept humming the theme tune so much that Kim thought she might have to punch him.
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  • Wellington

    18 czerwca 2015, Nowa Zelandia ⋅ ⛅ 12 °C

    The morning was spent planning out our forthcoming adventures on New Zealand's South Island, to which we depart tomorrow. After this, some lunch and laundry we visited Wellington's Museum of New Zealand, Te Papa.

    Entry is free to the museum, which covers five large floors of exhibits on art, nature, history and culture related to New Zealand that we roamed through. There were exhibits including an enormous whale skeleton and a preserved giant squid; a house that simulated an earthquake and furniture made from the recent earthquake in Christchurch; a preserved Waka (Maori canoe) and Wharemoe (sleeping house), similar to that which we slept in at Tamaki.

    The most emotive exhibit was that to the centenary since Gallipoli. The exhibit included over-sized but incredibly lifelike models of those who were at Gallipoli, accompanied by their stories. The last of these figures waded through a pool of paper poppies left by visitors. There was healthy reference to the Maori, who, following fierce debate to allow them, fought and died alongside European New Zealanders.

    The museum also exhibited the ambiguous Watangi treaty as well as how the famous Haka has been commercialised and imitated without Maori consent and required legal action to rectify.

    The museum stays open until 9:00pm but by 6:00pm hunger and tiredness lead us to the exit. We stopped off at the supermarket for a large portion of cooked chicken and rice (bargain at only $4) before heading back to our hostel. It would be an early night as tomorrow we were back on the road and over the water to the South Island.
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  • Kiwi Exp. - Wellington to Kaiteriteri

    19 czerwca 2015, Nowa Zelandia ⋅ 🌙 14 °C

    Wind and rain lashed against us as we walked from our hostel to our pick up point for the bus. Alex somehow managed to stay upright with the weight of his rucksack when his foot slipped on the wet metal of a manhole cover at the end of a steep street. Some expletives and more rain later we sat damp on the bus, making our way through morning traffic for our ferry to the South Island.

    The big white ferry with its streaks of orange rust sat in the grey drizzle of the port. We boarded along a gangway, taking front row seats on the top deck. This gave us commanding views across the bow and out over the waters as we left the port and moved out onto the open water. However after an hour it also gave us a rollercoaster experience as the ferry surged up and down and waves sprayed against the windows. The floor gave way beneath our feet and the room swung back and forth around us. We could only stand this motion for so long before we retreated downstairs to the back of the lower deck where it was calmer. Nausea quickly passed as we moved into calmer waters through the rocky outcrops of the South Island's coastline. Rocks turned to hills covered in alpine forests, the greens contrasting with the blues of the sky and the sea. The sun now shone where it had hidden behind cloud back in the north.

    We docked at Picton and returned to the bus to drive to our destination, Kaiteriteri. Due to 'hopping off' the bus and staying in Wellington for the last 3 days we had a new driver, Kane, as well as new fellow travellers on the bus (the majority of those on our last bus had chosen to continue travelling on). However the bus was far less full with only 15 of us in total compared with nearly 35 on our last bus (we also heard today that our previous bus broke down today so luck is with us for now).

    The sun remained out as we drove through wintering vineyards and the landscape became reminiscent of that in Montana and Wyoming, USA with cattle farmland against a backdrop of alpine mountains shrouded in mist. The mist grew into a fog, masking the sun to a yellow halo against the silhouette of pine trees on the ridges. The fog grew further around us as we wound our way down through the hills but as we past a shoreline the sun re-emerged on the horizon as it set behind a distant mountain range. With only the peaks of the range visible by the sun's glow, it gave the impression of being the spine of a great beast lumbering through the cloud around it.

    We arrived in complete darkness and were immediately surprised by the sounding of an alarm similar to a 1940s air raid siren. Seeing our surprise the receptionist at our hostel explained that this was the rural community's alarm for its fire service as two men sprinted from a nearby bar clearly responding to its call. Wherever the fire was we did not know of it again and it was a quiet night in, in what felt like the middle of nowhere.
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