• Giorno 33

    Budapest: "Poets and Cabaret"

    13 ottobre 2019, Ungheria ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    Our first day in two weeks where we were having to fend for ourselves, and we decided to ease ourselves gently into it. After breakfast we set off on foot to explore the immediate neighbourhood while picking up a few odds and ends from the shops. Even at 9am on a Sunday the streets were quite busy with both cars and pedestrians. Budapest is a city which never seems to sleep. Public transport runs frequently and almost non-stop. Shops open quite early and close late and the traffic is constant.
    We phoned Brian's cousin Panni and arranged to meet her for lunch at 1.30pm, which left us with the morning free. Ever since we reached Budapest the weather had been perfect. Having experienced cold and rainy Amsterdam we'd worried that maybe we had left our trip until too late in the year. Certainly the current weather in Budapest and the forecast for the following few days had laid any doubts to rest. With temperatures in the low 20s,little wind and partly cloudy skies it was perfect for photography and for wandering around. Even though things were still quite busy, we were definitely clear of the peak season crowds.
    We had only recently been told about the No.2 tram route which travels from the Pest side of the Margaret Bridge south along the river bank past Parliament Building, the big hotels, Chain Bridge and many other places of interest. With our seven day transport passes it was perfect for what we wanted.
    We had the time so we decided to give it a go. The trip is only about 20 minutes from end to end and the trams run every 5-10 minutes, so it was perfect for what we wanted. This was just a trial run for our city exploration but we jumped off midway through the return trip when a particularly impressive building caught our eye. It turned out to be the Vigadó Concert Hall, a beautifully restored art nouveau building. We wandered into the main foyer which was really quite something in terms of its decor. It is up there with the best that we have seen anywhere.
    We met Panni at the agreed time and then went looking for a restaurant with an available outdoor table, which wasn't easy because everywhere was packed with diners. Eventually found a table at a restaurant serving only chicken dishes and spent the next three hours chatting away vigorously and catching up with all the family news.
    Brian and Panni have a second cousin, András Körner who has lived in the United States for most of his life. András is a retired architect and a very accomplished artist. He happened to be visiting Budapest for the launch of his latest book, his sixth. Panni had been invited and she suggested we join her for the 5pm event. Brian had met András once previously, in 1974 when he visited and his former wife at their home in New York. We have the first of his books, "A Taste of the Past," a thoroughly researched book about life and about food in the early 20th century in a rural Hungarian Jewish community. András had researched the old family recipes and tested each of them by recreating them with modern cooking methods and ingredients. The book contains many detailed pen and ink drawings of the life and times, all done by the author.
    His new book, entitled (in Hungarian) "Poets and Cabaret" is exactly about that - the early 20th century cabaret scene in Budapest and the poets and performers involved. It is a substantial book containing hundreds of old photographs, and as with his previous books, it must have involved a lot of detailed research. This particular book is being published only in Hungarian so there was no point in us buying a copy.
    The launch was held in a large bookshop in the centre of the city. It has an auditorium upstairs, created presumably for this type of event, and the place was packed with close to 100 people. Things were hectic but Brian managed to chat with András for a couple of minutes. He clearly remembered Brian's visit.
    Panni had warned us that the entire event would be in Hungarian, so we more or less knew what to expect. We were still happy to go along for the experience and to meet up with other members of the Körner family who we knew would be there. The event was very well organised though, as expected, it wasn't all that interesting for the two of us when we didn't know what was being said. It ran for about 70 minutes.
    We then retraced our steps, said goodbye to Panni, arranged to meet her again for dinner before we go home and headed off for a nice pizza Hungarian style.
    Another full and enjoyable day. We now know that there is so much to see and do in this great city that we will have no trouble filling in our time here.
    Leggi altro

  • Giorno 32

    Budapest: Hitting the ground running

    12 ottobre 2019, Ungheria ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    After two full weeks of interesting experiences and of being waited on hand and foot, including unlimited food & drink nobody wanted to leave the ship.
    Everything had been so well organised and coordinated during the entire two weeks. Despite there having been some 70 coach trips and 50 tour guides to organise everything had gone like clockwork without a single noticeable hitch.
    Our final day was similarly well organised. Some people were going straight to the airport to catch flights at various times to various destinations, some were extending the APT tour by travelling with them by bus to Prague. Then there were others, including us, who needed taxis to hotels in Budapest.
    All this got pre-booked several days beforehand and it all happened exactly as scheduled. The only stipulations were that we had to be out of our cabins by 9am and off the ship by 1pm.. Drinks and snack food were available the entire time. There were many fond farewells as people went on their separate ways while promising sincerely to keep in touch.
    The weather was absolutely perfect for exploring the city, so even while we were waiting for our midday cab we decided to take a nice relaxing stroll along the river bank. The lighting was perfect for photographing the buildings and other scenery of this stunningly beautiful city. It looked cleaner and brighter than when we had last visited, and there was far less by way of cigarette butts and other rubbish lying around. We managed to get some really good shots with the new camera and without the usual masses of tourists getting in the way, as had been our continuous experience over the previous five weeks.
    Our taxi arrived as scheduled and dropped us off at our floating hotel. The receptionist was most apologetic. Our travel agent had booked the first three nights but hadn't requested a room facing the river. We had booked the final three nights ourselves and, knowing how much quieter and more scenic it was to be looking across the river to the famous Hungarian Parliament, we had paid a little bit more for the river view. Due to them being heavily booked she told us apologetically that she couldn't give us a river view for the first half of our stay and that we'd have to change cabins after the third night.
    The converted river cruiser, now a hotel, is moored in a prime location. It seemed to us though to be a little more tired and shabby than when we'd stayed there two years previously.
    After unpacking we took a wander to reacquaint ourselves with the area . We wandered over the Margaret Bridge to the Pest side and brought ourselves seven day transport passes. Previously, apart from some illegal tram rides we had walked everywhere, but we since found out that the penalties for travelling without a ticket are quite severe. Furthermore we wanted to travel further afield this time so the transport passes made good sense.
    Budapest has an excellent public transport system, provided you speak Hungarian and/or know where you are going. For anyone else it is quite challenging. Despite this we did manage to get ourselves to Heroes Square where the zoo, the famous baths, the lake and the gardens are. We wandered round there for quite a while, enjoying the scenery and soaking up the atmosphere of the place. Miraculously we then managed to navigate ourselves back to the hotel via metro, tram and on foot.
    After a bit of a rest at the hotel we headed out again and grabbed ourselves a Hungarian meal. Both of us chose the paprika chicken with potato dumplings and a refreshing cucumber salad. Very enjoyable, very filling and really quite cheap.
    We then took a nice slow walk back across the Margaret Bridge. The nighttime views from the bridge would have to be among the most stunning of any city in the world. All the bridges, all the major buildings and all of the monuments are tastefully floodlit with subtle orange lights, and the overall effect is stunning.
    Now, a word of caution for the wise. If you are ever visiting Hungary then try your very hardest to stay healthy and avoid their ambulance service at all cost. We were about 100m from our hotel when a woman rushed up to us and in broken English asked if we knew the phone number of the ambulance service. She said her partner had fallen down some stairs and was injured. We quickly checked to make sure it wasn't a trick and sure enough there was a man lying on the ground obviously in pain and with some blood coming from his mouth. We rushed to our hotel and asked the duty manager to call an ambulance. Instead of doing so, he insisted on accompanying us back to where the man was lying. This got Brian a bit cross as he seemed to be doubting our word.
    The fellow then phoned the ambulance and was talking to them on the phone for ages. It turned out that they needed to know the victim's age, weight and much more, including the nature of the injuries and the circumstances of the accident before they would despatch an ambulance. Even then, it took a good 20 minutes before it finally showed up. We felt very sorry for the two people who were visiting from Italy for just a few days. The night manager explained that he knew what was going to happen and that was why he insisted on attending the scene, so that he could answer all the questions. Peace was restored. By the way, the number to call is 104. Pretty hard to guess correctly.
    Leggi altro

  • Giorno 31

    A very full day in Budapest

    11 ottobre 2019, Ungheria ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    Our very last day on the cruise and a very packed program. The buses collected us at 8.30am and took us for an orientation tour of the city, which we found useful. We stopped for an hour or so at the Castle District and Fishermans Bastion overlooking the city. On that visit in 2017 we had been highly privileged in that Zsuzsi, Brian's second cousin who is an architectural historian and has published a couple of books on the subject had given us a comprehensive private tour of the area. Nevertheless it was good to be able to see it again. The bus tour also took us round the Heroes Square area which we had explored extensively on foot during our previous visit.
    We were taken then to the old Nyugati Railway Station where our next transport was awaiting us. It was the "Grand Empress" steam train. The fully restored steam engine indeed a magnificent beast and it was towing four fully restored old carriages comprising two dining cars, a lounge car and an Orient Express style compartment carriage. It was being run this day exclusively for our tour group.

    Once we'd taken our photos and settled into our seats the four course lunch was served on vintage style crockery and with crystal glasses. Talk about being made to feel special. On the return journey the train stopped for 20 minutes for a photo opportunity and for those who wished to to climb into the driver's cabin. The whole train ride was an interesting experience. With the excellent wine and food served while travelling in luxury on a vintage steam train it kind of set the stage for our next visit - to a nearby royal palace.

    When we reached the station closest to our next port of call the buses were waiting to take us to the Gödölö Palace where we were given an extensive guided tour. The palace had been a favourite of the much-loved Elisabeth of Bavaria (Empress Sisi) one of the last of the Hapsburgs. She and her family still feature strongly in Hungarian history and our very knowledgeable guide told us a great deal about the life and times of the Hapsburgs in the years leading up to the end of the First World War. As palaces go, it was quite modest, but still opulent by our standards.

    After we had toured the palace itself we were taken to the theatre within the palace where a string quartet gave us a most enjoyable concert of light classical pieces.

    That night a team of six musicians and dancers treated us to some traditional gypsy music, which was a bit of fun.

    All the talk among the passengers was about how much everyone has enjoyed themselves and how nobody was looking forward to having to pack and then vacate their cabins before 9am.
    Leggi altro

  • Giorno 30

    Vienna, day 2

    10 ottobre 2019, Austria ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    The Hapsburg family ruled the Austro Hungarian Empire for nearly 650 years, which is one of the longest of any dynasty. It certainly gave them plenty of time to build palaces and other major structures. One of these is the Schönbrunn Palace just outside Vienna which they used as their summer retreat . The best-known inhabitant was Maria Theresa who spent her later years in seclusion there following the death of her husband.
    Today it is one of Vienna's major tourist attractions. Crowd numbers are strictly controlled and we were given a precise time slot when we had to be there. Our very informative and chatty guide from the previous day, Wolfgang was our guide this time too. Broadly speaking Schönbrunn is built in the style of Versailles with its palace and gardens though it is on a somewhat smaller scale. The place was one of the busiest we'd been to, though evidently this was nothing compared to what it is like in the height of the season.
    Both the palace and the gardens are impressive, and it would have been good to have wandered round for a bit longer but we were on a tight schedule.
    On the way back a few of us elected to be dropped off in the city and to find our own way back. By then it was about 1 o'clock and with the ship due to sail at 3.45pm we had no time to do anything too ambitious. In the end the two of us wandered round town for a bit, grabbed some coffee and cake then headed back to the ship via the Metro. The consequences of missing the boat don't bear thinking about and we didn't want to leave anything to chance.
    Leggi altro

  • Giorno 29

    Good morning, Vienna

    9 ottobre 2019, Austria ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    Shortly after breakfast we headed off, initially by bus, for an introduction to the city of Vienna. Our guide warned us that we'd be madly turning our heads left and right as though we were at a tennis match, and he was right. We took the ring road which basically circles the inner city and were quickly overwhelmed by the sight of the beautifully presented buildings, the statues, the gardens and all the other features that were continuously coming into view on both sides of us.
    The bus then dropped us off near the Town Hall and our guide took us for a walking tour of an hour or so where he pointed out many of the key features of the inner city. It was quite overwhelming, being surrounded by so many beautiful things. Rather than take the tour bus back to the ship we decided to explore the inner city for ourselves then take the Metro back to base. We wandered around in a leisurely fashion taking it all in and getting plenty of photos.

    Vienna is full of museums and galleries, so our greatest challenge came in deciding which one to visit. In the end we opted for the Albertina, and that was quite something. Much of their display area is given over to the works of Albrecht Dürer. There are something like 140 of his original paintings, sketches and engravings on display. But that's far from everything. Just about every well-known artist is represented there from Renoir to Manet to Klee to Picasso and many others. After a couple of hours at the gallery we were suffering from information overload so decided to head back to the ship.
    As we'd been told, the subway was very easy to navigate and we then had an easy ten minute walk back to our ship.
    Our first day in Vienna wasn't over yet. After a light dinner we hopped on the buses for what should have been a 20 minute trip to the Lichtenstein Palace for a Viennese concert. Things started badly with the trip taking twice as long as it should have. Evidently there was a street protest taking place and one of the major roads was closed. It was raining and this caused Brian to get into a row with an officious young lady from the Palace. We'd been invited to deposit our brollies in a receptacle just inside the front door, after which we walked up the 64 steps of the grand staircase to the room where they were serving drinks and the room where the concert was to be held. One of the attendants then told Brian that brollies, including our small folding one, weren't allowed and that he'd have to trek down the stairs to leave it at the entrance. A couple of others were caught out similarly. Honour was restored when our guide found us a secret hiding place on the 2nd floor.
    What about the event and the venue? The Palace is in the rococo style which means that everything is over the top in terms of ceilings, murals, chandeliers and so on. It has been spectacularly well restored. The concert too was quite enjoyable, including pieces by Johann Strauss, Mozart and Lehar. It ran for about an hour and the orchestra was accompanied at various times by three boy sopranos, a tenor and a female soprano. Towards the end the room was starting to get uncomfortably hot so we were quite pleased that it finished when it did.
    Leggi altro

  • Giorno 28

    On the Melk run

    8 ottobre 2019, Austria ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C

    Overnight we had left Linz and had arrived in the town of Melk in the Wachau Valley, whose main claim to fame is the baroque styled abbey. Originally it was the residence of the Bamberg family, but since the year 1089 it has been a Benedictine monastery. It is still an administrative centre for the order, and it houses a school with 750 pupils.
    The current building was created between 1701 and 1726. It is on a hilltop overlooking the town and is spectacularly beautiful. We were split into two groups and taken round by guides supplied by the abbey. We drew the short straw in that our guide was totally robotic in her delivery and seemed bored by the whole process. Evidently the other group's guide was excellent - the exact opposite.
    One wing of the building, formerly the guest quarters, has been set up like a museum, and it was interesting. Of particular interest was the library which was filled with thousands of old books most of them several hundred years old. It is strictly forbidden to take photos inside though from time to time Brian's finger accidentally seemed to brush past the shutter release. Maybe he was so annoyed with the tour guide that he became twitchy.
    The interior and exterior are so ornate, unexpected for a monastery. The building's exterior and the views from there are really stunning. We then wandered down from there to the old town. It has been restored and it too is beautiful. Even though we have been seriously over-eating and drinking too much we simply couldn't resist the urge to stop at an outdoor café for a coffee and apple strudel each.
    Once we were all back on board we continued down the Wachau Valley and stopped a couple of hours later at the small town of Dürnstein.
    It's a quaint town, not too badly overrun by tourists and great for biking. Its main claim to fame is the castle ruins on the hill high above the town. Richard the Lionheart had been imprisoned there at the time of the crusades.
    The climb to the ruins practically requires one to have the heart of a lion. It is very steep and rocky, no handrails and it is little more than a dirt track with a few steps cut roughly into the steeper parts. Mary, wisely, decided to remain at ground zero while Brian, less wisely and along with a handful of other intrepid souls, decided to try the climb. It was certainly no walk in the park, but the effort was well worth it. The view from the top, overlooking the town, the Danube and the surrounding vineyards was simply great.
    After dinner the on board entertainers put on an evening of ABBA tunes. Mary was in her element and was once again the star of the dance floor.
    Leggi altro

  • Giorno 27

    Three border crossings in a day

    7 ottobre 2019, Repubblica Ceca ⋅ ⛅ 7 °C

    So many choices. Sometimes it is hard to decide which one to go for. Our options were a walking tour of Passau, a full day Salzburg 'Sound of Music' tour or a full day tour to Český Krumlov in the Czech Republic. We chose the last one.
    We hadn't had a chance to look at Passau, the port where we were docked, but as our bus was driving out of the town and the morning sun was in just the right position, Brian spotted some stunningly beautiful views of the old buildings. Sadly there was no time to grab the camera in the small time slot before they disappeared from view. These Kodak moments went unrecorded, which was rather a shame. Fortunately, and by way of compensation, we were to get other equally good shots elsewhere as the day progressed.
    Český Krumlov is nearly two hours away by bus, and we thoroughly enjoyed the views as we travelled from Germany to Austria to the Czech Republic.
    The Bavarian landscape was the prettiest and tidiest by far. It all looked so green and fertile and we went through large forested areas. In true German fashion everything was tidy and orderly. The Czech Republic isn't nearly as rich, and by contrast it was far less tidy, it was less heavily wooded and the buildings in the towns and villages that we passed through generally looked a bit rundown. Our guide pointed out that much of this was a legacy still from the communist era, when there were no environmental considerations.
    A few kilometres before our destination we reached a large artificial lake, Sebevrah, which is a major holiday resort area for people from the Czech Republic and neighbouring areas. The lake itself is most attractive, though we were less attracted by the large number of hotels, pensions, guest houses and eating places throughout Evidently it is ridiculously jam-packed at the height of the holiday season. One definitely wouldn't want to be there. Furthermore, all the narrow country roads which lead to the place get totally jammed up.
    Reaching Český Krumlow the first thing we saw as we walked from the bus was the spectacular Castle Bridge. It really does stand out. Walking under it and into the town itself it was obvious that we were going to have a great time and would get the chance for some good photos in the fine sunny (but 12 degree) weather.
    Our excellent guide took us through the town, pointing out various things of interest, then up the hill to the castle. Český Krumlow has been awarded a UNESCO world heritage listing, and as a result a great deal of international money has been poured into its restoration. The result is a beautifully restored town offering many spectacular views.
    Our guide then took us up the hill to the castle, after which we had a few hours of free time. Even though the place wasn't packed, by our standards it was quite busy, with many (mainly Asian) tour groups. It made it that bit harder. But then, something surprising happened. We decided to walk a further 200 metres or so up a steepish path above the castle and we came upon these large and immaculately maintained gardens, with hundreds of metres of perfectly trimmed hedges, beautiful flower gardens and several fountains. The best part of all was that the place was almost deserted. Clearly, very few tourists take the trouble to walk those extra few metres, which was clearly to our benefit.
    After taking numerous photos we wandered down to the town, where we decided to have some lunch. After all the food we had been eating over the previous ten days or so neither of us was really hungry but Brian nevertheless was determined to try some genuine local food. We went in to one of the many restaurants. Mary wasn't at all hungry so decided on a plate of chips, done Austrian style - sliced very, very thinly and really crisp. Whenever there is duck on the menu then that’s what Brian orders. The dish he got served was huge. As well as the potato dumplings and red cabbage there was the most beautiful duck breast and leg on the bone. This giant bird had not died in vain. It was the most tender and flavoursome meat which was totally fat-free and so tender that it fell off the bone. By then Brian was absolutely full, but he simply couldn't leave it there. The cherry strudel was to die for.
    By then the tourist crowds had thinned, so Brian grabbed the opportunity after our lunch to take a lot more photos.
    We were due to rendezvous with our guide outside the Museum of Torture at 4.15pm. As we still had a bit of spare time we decided to visit the aforementioned museum. The displays were done realistically, so much so that we started wondering why anyone, us included, would voluntarily subject ourselves to the torture of thinking about such things while enjoying a dream holiday. We didn't stay there very long.
    Leggi altro

  • Giorno 26

    On yer bike in Regensberg

    6 ottobre 2019, Germania ⋅ ☁️ 9 °C

    We must have made good progress because by the time we woke at 7am we were already moored at the Bavarian city of Regensberg. We hadn't expected to arrive until around 9am. After breakfast we set off on a tour of the old town with a local German (ie non-Scottish) guide. He told us that he was a final year student majoring in politics. Regensberg is a university town and it seems that most of the local tour guides are university students.
    The city boasts many beautiful well-kept buildings and our guide told us quite a bit about the history of the place.
    It has a magnificent stone bridge which, stupidly, the Germans blew up in the dying days of the war when they were clearly facing defeat. They thought that they would slow the Allied advance, which it didn't. The bridge was subsequently rebuilt. Being Sunday all the shops aside from cafes and restaurants were closed. As it was, this suited us because it meant there were fewer people around to annoy Brian by getting in the way of his photographs. We wandered round the town for a couple of hours and visited the cathedral, which is large even by normal cathedral standards. As seemed to be the case with so many of the cathedrals we'd seen, the exterior was difficult to photograph properly because of all the scaffolding and building materials about the place. Most such buildings seem to be in a permanent state of undergoing restoration.
    Our guide had pointed out to us the best place to buy traditional Bavarian food of sausages on a roll with mustard and sauerkraut, and certainly the cooking smells coming from there were almost irresistible. Brian was keen to try some, but there was such a long queue outside the door that he reluctantly gave up.
    Even though the weather was dry it was bitterly cold so after about three hours we were quite happy to head back to the warmth of the ship.
    Brian, along with two fellow passengers, Carolyn and Juri, had booked bikes for the late afternoon. Mary wasn't terribly keen on the idea of Brian tempting fate yet again, but bike rides round the area had been highly recommended.
    The three of them duly set off, with Brian being the oldest, least experienced and by far the wobbliest.
    They rode for quite some distance along the banks of the Danube and criss-crossing the various bridges. They discovered extensive parklands and bike tracks surrounding the city as well as a really picturesque lake. In the course of their ride they covered maybe eight to ten kilometres and thoroughly enjoyed the experience. Whether the many pedestrians and cyclists who came so close to being run down by an out of control cyclist enjoyed themselves similarly is another matter.
    We had booked in that night for dinner at the Chef's Table, the up-market restaurant on the ship. It was a very noisy gathering, though that was largely self-inflicted because we'd arranged to go there with a lively group of people whom we'd dined with there on the previous occasion.
    We then headed to the lounge where a very good Bavarian entertainer and his ten year old son put on a lively show with piano accordion, alpine horn and other such musical instruments.
    Leggi altro

  • Giorno 25

    Notorious Nuremberg

    5 ottobre 2019, Germania ⋅ ⛅ 9 °C

    Nuremberg's recent history is rather notorious, but the good thing is that the city doesn't shy away from its role in the period up to and including World War II.
    No leisurely lie-in this particular morning as we were due to head off at 8.15am for a tour of Nuremberg. We had another Scottish - born guide who was very pleasant, knowledgeable and informative. She is at least the third such guide we have encountered - Scottish born, long-term German resident and married with family to a local spouse. Is it a form of Scottish emigration that we were hitherto unaware of? Could it be that the Scots are always able to find better quality partners overseas? At least that's Brian's line and he is sticking to it.
    It was about a 15 minute drive to our first stop, the ruins of the giant and infamous Zeppelinfeld parade ground which was the scene of Hitler's Nazi rallies. One has to be there to really appreciate the extent of Hitler's megalomania and the scale of the buildings that he commissioned and his architect Albert Speer designed. To give an idea of size, some 700000 Nazi Party supporters attended the 6th party congress in 1934. Sufficient of the structures, including the grand platform from which Hitler harangued the party faithful, remain. One can get some idea of his megalomania by visiting this and other nearby structures, including an overscale copy of the Roman Colliseum which was never fully completed. Sheer madness.
    From there, we drove past the courthouse building where the famous Nazi war trials took place.
    We then headed to the other side of Nuremberg where our guide took us for a walk around part of the old city. It is certainly very attractive and boasts the biggest enclosed area of any walled city anywhere.
    We were then free to wander round and explore for a couple of hours. Nuremberg has a lot of interesting old buildings as well as some excellent shops. We lost a bit of time while Brian searched out a camera shop where he could get a replacement lens cap for the new camera. Camera shops are few and far between these days so we were very pleased to have found one. We could have happily spent a lot longer in Nuremberg, but unfortunately time was limited as we had to move on. One good thing was that even though it was cold the rain held off for the entire day.
    We were leaving the Main river and setting off on the Main-Danube canal which links the North Sea to the Black Sea. It is a major engineering feat, being 171 kilometres long, and has 16 giant locks. Many of the passengers, us included, spent a couple of freezing but fascinating hours on the top deck as the ship manoeuvred its way through some of these locks, which are impressive engineering structures. Three of them each have lifts of 24.7 metres, and most of them are at least 15 metres. They are 12 metres wide,. making it a tricky feat to steer our 11.5 metre long ship in there without hitting the concrete sides. We calculated that the largest of the locks required over 50000 cubic metres of water each time to fill it, equivalent to more than 1000 times the volume of our pool back home. Each lock took over half an hour to navigate. We were very lucky though because we got green lights all the way. If there are other ships either ahead of us or coming towards us then we could get delayed for a long time.
    In the afternoon a guest lecturer came on board and gave us an excellent half hour illustrated presentation about the canal and its history, which really put things in perspective.
    It seems the original canal dates back to Roman times when, obviously, it would have been dug entirely by hand. Nowadays the locks are all controlled remotely from three control rooms.
    Early in the day we were told that we'd be meeting the sister ship to the Amaverde heading in the opposite direction. Then, later, we learned that it wouldn't be happening because the other ship had had to abandon its voyage due to the low water levels in the river system. In other words we were very lucky to have made it through without us having to be offloaded and put on buses.
    After dinner we relaxed in the lounge with a couple of drinks while the on-board entertainers played and sang songs from our era. Mary made a name for herself and received many compliments for her enthusiastic singing and dancing.
    Leggi altro

  • Giorno 24

    Destination Bamberg

    4 ottobre 2019, Germania ⋅ ☁️ 11 °C

    We'd got used to the pattern of sightseeing in the morning and then having free time in the afternoon. This time we had a leisurely morning on board while we continued on to our destination of Bamberg.

    We were warned that, unlike all the other places that we had visited, Bamberg's port area is totally unattractive. As we saw when we arrived just after lunch, that was certainly the case. Fortunately we had buses to pick us up and take us to the centre of town.

    Bamberg is certainly a very attractive town and we began by walking alongside the river from where we could admire all the old houses along the water's edge on the opposite bank. With good reason the area is known as Little Venice. We then walked quickly through the old town and up the hill to the cathedral. It and the surrounding buildings are quite spectacular, though our guide unfortunately was in a bit of a rush which limited the opportunity for photographs. Opportunities were further limited by the large amount of road and foot traffic in the area and by the fact that many of the buildings were undergoing repairs and restoration work. Nevertheless, what we did see was quite impressive.

    Our guide then took us back down the hill to the old town, leaving us to our own devices for a couple of hours. That was fine, except for the fact that round about then it started to rain. This was unfortunate because up until then the weather had at least been dry, though overcast and cold.

    Bamberg contains many shops and restaurants, and would have provided many photo opportunities also if the weather had been kinder. We were tempted to try the smoked beer, a local specialty, but as we had been eating and drinking so much on board the ship we decided to give it a miss. At the appointed time we were happy enough to get back on the bus and return to the comfort of our ship. We were certainly pleased to have visited Bamberg, though a little disappointed that the weather had prevented us from getting a lot more out of the visit.
    Leggi altro

Unisciti a noi:

FindPenguins per iOSFindPenguins per Android