A trip on the Ponant ship Le Laperouse with my old NZ friend and travel companion Elspeth Leer más
  • Spydah
  • Elspeth Preddey

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Crucero, Amistad, Naturaleza, Fotografía, Viaje corto, Visita turísticas, Desierto, Fauna
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  • 14huellas
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  • A wobbly arrival, then goodbye sun

    2–3 jun. 2024, Australia ⋅ ⛅ 31 °C

    Brian: A smooth transfer to Brisbane airport conducted very kindly and punctually by Julie and Helen who were keen to ensure that their aging father didn’t accidentally wrap the luggage tag around his arm instead of the suitcase handle and that he knew which flight to catch.
    The flight was smooth and much of the time was spent chatting to the pleasant young engineer sitting alongside me. He and colleagues were heading to an airport base south of Katherine for a few days. We covered many topics, which made the time go quickly.
    A hiccup in Darwin however when there was nobody there to meet me and take me to the hotel. Apparently the land transfer company hadn’t been advised of my booking. Having established that I’d be reimbursed by Ponant I hitched a ride with another limo company ($90, and thanks for coming)
    The hotel is clean and basic, which is really all we need as a staging point before boarding the ship tomorrow. While writing this I’m awaiting Elspeth’s arrival some time after midnight, having travelled from Waikanae to Wellington by train then to the airport from where she flies to Sydney then boards a Sydney-Darwin flight. Unfortunately it will be a challengingly long day for her.
    There are no shops or restaurants close to the hotel, but following a strong recommendation from my personal limo driver and impending millionaire I set off late in the afternoon on the 2km walk to the legendary Mindil Beach Sunday markets. It was hot and humid and this Darwinian body certainly felt the heat from the Darwinian sun. Covering a large area, the place was packed., clearly a major attraction for locals and visitors alike. The main emphasis was on food outlets. There was no lack of laksa stalls, and if you knew sushi like I … (sorry, but I’ve been waiting ages to be able to write that joke). Going against the prevailing trend I bought a Greek snack.
    But that was just the start of the excitement. From 6 o’clock onwards crowds started descending on the adjacent beach to observe the sunset. It was like a mass stampede with hordes of people heading towards the water’s edge in time for the daily phenomenon, scheduled on this day for 6.28pm. There would have been many hundreds in the crowd. The sky was clear and I have to admit that the sunset was impressive. But the surprises weren’t entirely over. Just as the last piece of the glowing orb disappeared below the horizon the crowd burst into a loud and vigorous applause. Sun, take a bow! Even the ancient Egyptians, who worshipped the sun god Ra, probably didn’t get this excited. Just imagine the frenzy if ever Darwin experiences a total solar eclipse.
    From there it was an Uber ride back to the hotel and a quiet evening while awaiting the arrival in the wee small hours of my old friend and travel companion, Elspeth.
    Fortunately Elspeth’s flight was on time. (I followed the aircraft’s progress on the FlightRadar app just to make sure). If only the land transfer company was as reliable, however. The driver managed to drop an elderly female solo traveller at 1am at Argus Apartments rather than the Argus Hotel, the former being quite some distance from the intended destination. Fortunately the considerate night manager at the apartments helped her organise a taxi and I was quite relieved when the two of us were eventually in the same place at the same time and eagerly awaiting the start of the big adventure.
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  • The tugboat departs, while Elspeth looks most contented
    We can't get enough of those sunsetsThe Darwin pilot boat

    An auspicious start

    3 de junio de 2024, Australia ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    A full day in Darwin. The first priority was to catch up on some of the lost beauty sleep,, but we each found ourselves waking up early. Checkout time st the hotel was 10am but check-in time at the cruise terminal wasn’t until 3.30pm What to do? We decided to check out as late as possible then fill in the ensuing 5.5 hours by discovering Darwin. Leaving our bags at the hotel we Ubered to the NT Museum. It was an interesting place, rather eclectic in its choice of topics - dinosaur bones, Cyclone Tracy, WW2 bombing, and a host of other random topics. Interesting in many ways.
    Having reached the footsore stage after a couple of hours we then Ubered across town to the other place we’d been recommended, the Darwin waterfront. It’s certainly a very attractive area with lots of parkland and a very good variety of restaurants. To add to the excitement we could see our ship, the Le Laperouse, in the distance, dazzlingly white and most inviting. Uber did very well out of us this day because we then took a return ride to collect our luggage from the hotel and bring it back to the nearby cruise terminal in time for the start of the boarding process with all its paperwork and rigmarole.
    Very much to their credit Ponant had responded immediately to Brian’s strong letter of complaint about the experience which both of us independently had had with the airport pickups. They were full of apologies, agreed to pay all out of pocket expenses and have added a 200 euro credit to our shipboard account. We certainly can’t fault them on that score.
    First impressions on board were excellent also with everyone smiling and friendly, aided by some excellent French champagne for the boarding passengers. Our cabin isn’t huge but is certainly comfortable and very well laid out and with generous storage space.
    Once boarding was completed all passengers were required to attend the mandatory briefing in the ship’s theatre where key crew members were introduced and we were given a rundown of the general rules and how things operate. The ship is beautifully appointed, the staff go out of their way to be friendly and we’re confident that we’re going to have a most enjoyable and relaxing time.
    It was shortly after the compulsory lifebelt training session, and we were underway, that the captain announced firstly that the port pilot was about to depart and secondly that the sunset would be visible from the port side. We rushed up on deck and were able to observe the pilot boat pulling away just as the sun was setting behind it.
    Fast forward to dinner which we enjoyed in the Nautilus restaurant. Of the two restaurants on board this is the more formal, Certainly the food, the wine and the service were all impeccable, very much up to the standard of a high-class Parisian establishment. We lingered long over dinner, sharing the table with a Port Macquarie couple from our age group - a thoroughly enjoyable evening, Everything points to it being a really memorable holiday.
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  • King George Falls
    A picture of blissA sample 5-course dinner menuThe first of many Zodiac ridesDrinking to a great holidayTypical of the interesting Kimberley cliff facesThe geological strata can be clearly seenElspeth could hardly wait to try out the pool

    Zodiacs bring good fortune…

    4 de junio de 2024, Australia ⋅ 🌙 23 °C

    …but bad luck for a few others. A very full and educational day began with an all too tempting breakfast. What with the variety and unlimited quantities of food and drink on offer one could easily become an 18 stone alcoholic. Clearly discipline, but not too much, will be required.
    The day’s formal activities began with a series of presentations, mainly about staying safe on our forthcoming Zodiac expeditions. It was also a chance for the dozen or so expedition leaders to be introduced.. Most of them are quite young, but all are highly qualified in one or other of the natural sciences.
    Late morning Elspeth , the water baby, declared a pool swim to be a necessity, and proved to be one of the only passengers, at least so far, to use the pool. It does look inviting, though it is closer in size to a baby bath than an Olympic pool. For a bit of fun the two of us attended a French pronunciation class presented, somewhat tongue in cheek, by the ship’s tour director.
    Later, in the ship’s theatre, we watched a fascinating hour-long documentary “Malice or Mutiny: the Koolama Incident” which was about the eponomously-named ship with 200 passengers on board which was bombed by Japanese Zero fighters just off the Kimberley Coast. It limped to a cove near the King George River where most of those on board struggled to shore. Meanwhile the captain and a few loyal crew members worked hard to repair the damage so that the ship could struggle back to Wyndham, the nearest point of civilisation. Those on shore refused to assist, a form of mutiny. The story of how everyone eventually reached Wyndham, some by a gruelling overland journey, others by the barely seaworthy ship is really interesting.
    Having been fully briefed in the morning on all the do’s and don’ts of Zodiac travel we set off at 3pm in a convoy of half a dozen Zodiacs to travel up the King George River to the falls, a 14km round trip. Ancient and spectacular sandstone cliffs line the coast and the river banks from the falls to the river mouth. They really are quite something and are unlike anything we’d seen before. Definitely well worth a visit. The lower reaches of the river are also lined with a proliferation of various mangrove species. We were also able to more fully appreciate the privations which those on board the Koolama must have experienced in that crocodile-infested and dangerous environment.
    The falls themselves are spectacular, and that was despite the fact them apparently flowing at nowhere near their peak. Brian was fiddling with his camera, so was the only one of the seven of us on board our Zodiac to miss the sight of a small crocodile surfacing a few metres away just at the base of the falls to swallow a fish.
    We then headed back just as the sun was setting to cover the 7km back to our boat, not knowing that one of the other Zodiacs was close to experiencing its own maritime crisis. During the homewards run there was quite a bit of radio traffic between our Zodiac and a couple of the others regarding an apparently missing Zodiac. Eventually they agreed among themselves that it must have reached Le Laperouse already so we carried on with our own trip back.
    It was only later in the evening that we learned that the missing Zodiac had indeed been missing and had got itself stuck in the mud. Behind the scenes a rescue operation was taking place to collect those who had been onboard. They arrived back an hour or two late, but apparently still happy and smiling. We later found out that a rescue crew returned at 1am when the tidal waters had risen and successfully retrieved the marooned Zodiac. Chatting later to the unfortunate driver of that Zodiac, the ship’s photographer, he said that the tides in the area are very unpredictable, and he simply got caught out. They downplayed it, but unwelcome visits from the odd passing crocodile was likely to have featured in their thinking.
    This was the night of the captain’s gala dinner where we were all asked to dress up in our good clothes. The requested dress code included a suit and tie, with dinner jacket as a suggested option. Brian had reluctantly packed the former. He is proud of the fact that he can still squeeze into his 40-year old dark suit. We were slightly disappointed to see that about 3/4 of the men hadn’t bothered and had chosen to dress casually. Those dress code instructions are probably more appropriate for less casual societies. Very clearly the women had put in far more of an effort than their male counterparts.
    The dinner itself was most pleasant and provided a fitting end to an action-packed day.
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  • Ancient Aboriginal cave paintings on Jar Island
    Ancient Aboriginal cave paintings on Jar IslandThe paintings are much clearer in photos such as these compared with real lifeAncient Aboriginal cave paintings on Jar IslandThe age is uncertain, but it's somewhere between 10,000 and 30,000 yearsElspeth on Jar Island with Le Laperouse in the backgroundBrian in a state of bliss

    And the fun continues

    5 de junio de 2024, Australia ⋅ 🌙 25 °C

    We had travelled overnight and by the time we woke up our ship was anchored several hundred metres off Jar Island, so named because an early explorer, believing he was the first non-native person to visit the area found shards from pottery jars littering the beach. (Later it was found that the jars had originated from Indonesian trochus fishermen). The main point of the day was visiting some very early Aboriginal cave paintings, possibly dating back 14000 years. We were warned that it would be hot on the tiny island, which it was, and that some agility would be needed in order to reach the two caves - also true. We’d be away for about an hour and a quarter.
    Our Zodiacs duly deposited us on the beautiful sandy beach and both of us were glad to have our walking poles with us to navigate the uneven terrain. The paintings themselves don’t stand out clearly, and it is difficult to do full justice to them in photographs. We were forewarned that access to the second cave, 100m or so away, was even more challenging and that anyone with limited mobility shouldn’t try. Those paintings were from a different era and in a different style. Despite the warning both of us managed to clamber over the boulders and succeeded without injury. On return to the ship everyone realised how hot and dehydrated we had all become. The two of us successfully self-medicated with cool cleansing ales.
    After lunch Dannii, one of our knowledgable and competent naturalists, gave us a fascinating hour-long presentation “Kimberley, Land of Extremes.” In it she covered a broad range of topics including the area’s history, climate, geology and wildlife. It was most informative and has certainly whetted our appetites for the days which lie ahead. Later in the afternoon Brian attended a workshop run by the ship’s photographer for the few SLR camera owners on board. It took the form of one on one discussions, which we could all tune in to, about making the most of the camera equipment we had. Brian certainly picked up some very useful pointers.
    An unexpected but spectacular highlight took place when we went up to the Observation Lounge to watch a spectacular Kimberley sunset. This was the first evening where we’d had a truly cloudless sky, and it so happened that our ship was heading due west at the time. The lounge is located immediately below the bridge and offers a 270 degree view. It was quite an experience to watch the sunset from that vantage point.
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  • The briefest overseas trip

    6 de junio de 2024, Australia ⋅ 🌬 26 °C

    Due to Australian Government regulations overseas-run ships such as Le Laperouse have to drop anchor in an overseas location at least once every twenty days. Otherwise, presumably, they are regarded as Australia-based and would have to be crewed by overpaid Australian sailors. To comply with this absurd requirement, on the trip from Darwin to Broome the ship diverts out to Ashmore Reef 320 kilometres offshore in the Timor Sea. On the northbound return journey this legal requirement isn’t necessary.
    The expectation for this day of visiting an exotic location is that there would be no Zodiac excursions. In keeping with our newly-established routine Elspeth began her daily activities by attending a pre-breakfast gym class while Brian busied himself with sorting out the previous day’s photos and blog. We then attended an interesting lecture from Brett, our resident geologist, on the geology of the Kimberley. It was followed shortly after by a somewhat less interesting lecture “Navigating Nature - Understanding Water Signs” given by one of the other naturalists.
    This was a day of informative lectures, with Elspeth then going to a late morning workshop on bird identification while Brian headed up to the Observation Lounge to meet with Alex, the ship's official photographer, and practise using some of the more advanced features of his camera. By then our ship had reached Ashmore Reef and had dropped anchor a kilometre or so away from a moored Australian Border Force vessel.
    It was during this period that the captain’s voice came over the loudspeakers with a major announcement. We were going to be able to go on Zodiacs to the reef lagoon. Evidently this is a huge privilege which occurs only occasionally on these trips. Not only does the captain have to be confident that the conditions are right but the Border Force people have to give their OK. While we wouldn’t be going ashore it would give us a chance to take a closer look at the wildlife. We were warned that the sea was a bit rough and the Zodiacs would be bounced around. Elspeth, along with many other passengers, elected not to go, while Brian chose to join the brave and foolhardy. We would travel for about half an hour each way and would spend half an hour at the reef.
    The Zodiacs set out in a convoy carrying half of the reef passengers and when that group returned they would take the second group, which included Brian. The first contingent duly returned, all of them wildly excited. The place was so full of wildlife, with turtles surfacing everywhere around them, but a red-footed booby had actually landed on one woman’s head and had calmly sat there for about three minutes. But then came the anticlimax, A mere one hour later Brian and his fellow passengers in the second group saw far less. A couple of people got brief glimpses of surfacing turtles but apart from them and the occasional passing sea-bird there was virtually nothing. Despite this Brian thoroughly enjoyed the experience and returned happy but soaked.
    Continuing in the manner to which we’d like to become accustomed we headed once again to enjoy cleansing pre-dinner ales in the Observation Lounge with its 270 degree views high up on the sixth level. After then attending the daily briefing about the following day’s exciting planned activities we rolled up to another beautiful dinner in the Nautilus restaurant - just the usual sequence of amuse bouche, appetiser, main course, cheese and then dessert. For the first time on this trip the sea was somewhat choppy and poor Elspeth decided to restrict herself to a mere two courses.
    From there we went downstairs to the quiz night where our ad hoc four person team performed quite respectably.
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  • The famous graffiti in Careening Bay
    Admiring a spectacular sunset from the observation deckClear skies and beautiful sunsets. Drinks and a great view from the observation deck on Level 7.Amazing cycads at Careening BayCareening Bay cycadsA more recently inscribed boabOur group on Careening Bay beach

    Bay of boabs

    7 de junio de 2024, Australia ⋅ ☀️ 27 °C

    A nice easy day on the schedule. Elspeth began it by attending a talk entitled “Indigenous Astronomy” while the ever-cynical Brian decided that it was an oxymoron and chose to give it a miss. Elspeth found the talk interesting and was particularly intrigued with the concept of the ancient knowledge being seen as a cultural archive.
    We then had free time until 1230 when we set off for a short ten-minute Zodiac ride to the shore of Careening Bay. It takes its name from an expedition led by Philip Parker King in 1820 which was forced to beach its ship, the Mermaid, for repairs. The Mermaid had suffered damage in North Queensland but those onboard didn’t realise the seriousness of the damage until they had reached the Kimberley coast and it started taking in water at an alarming rate. They were fortunate that the extreme tidal variation in the area allowed them to careen their ship on sand which was often dry while they made it seaworthy again. They were there for 17 days, during which the ship’s carpenter carved the ship’s name and the date into the trunk of a nearby boab tree. This tree now has a girth of 12m and the original inscription is still highly visible. Today’s graffiti vandals should be envious as the tree with its historic inscription is now officially part of our national heritage. Aside from the boab trees the area is known for its impressive cycads and the for the many varieties of mangroves which thrive there.
    The day ended on an absolute high with a session of stargazing, held in total darkness on the uppermost level (Deck 7) of the ship. Our guides, using a laser pointer, were able to point to many stars and constellations in the night sky, The real revelation was in the number of stars which were visible, many times more than we ever manage to see in the skies above Brisbane. It was truly amazing to view the night sky in such detail and with such incredible clarity.
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  • Flying high

    8 de junio de 2024, Indian Ocean ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    Despite being travel companions our paths barely crossed today. Elspeth’s morning gym classes coincide always with Brian’s preferred breakfast time, but we are generally in the same small tour groups and on most occasions we wine and dine together.
    However… Brian bravely decided to book himself on the Mitchell Falls helicopter tour which meant that his zodiac visit to Swift Bay would take place afterwards whereas Elspeth as the ground-dweller was scheduled to visit there in the morning. Fun fact: the bay is named after Jonathan Swift, the author of Gulliver’s Travels. He was a family friend of the early explorer of the region, Philip Parker King.
    Great excitement. A short zodiac ride to a nearby beach where three small choppers landed just a few minutes later. A detailed safety briefing from the pilot and it was all aboard a small four-passenger chopper. To enable better viewing the choppers don’t have side doors and Brian managed to score one of the side seats. The seats are very narrow and there’s a very strung downdraft from the rotor - 200kph according to the pilot. The only thing stopping the side passengers from falling out is the safety harness, and this certainly sprung to mind each time the chopper banked steeply to give us a better view. Dropping 1000 feet into the jaws of a waiting croc gives a whole new meaning to the term fresh food delivery.
    As expected, the views over the Mitchell Plateau during the 20 minute ride were great and we got an excellent birds-eye preview of the falls themselves.. Once we‘d landed it was a 500m walk, some of it over rocks and boulders, to the first lookout point. It provides a great view, but we had been told that the second lookout, 100m further on, was better still. We were also told that it requires a fair bit of agility, which isn’t Brian’s strong point these days. Of course he had to try and meet the challenge and get the best photos possible. It was certainly a difficult scramble but well worth it.
    There is a safe swimming hole near the helicopter landing site. Several people went in but Brian wasn’t tempted. The ride back to base was just as scenic, but viewed this time from the less breathtaking centre rear seat.
    Our return to the ship was late which meant a rapid turnaround for Brian to board another zodiac for the ten-minute ride to shore to see some more recent Aboriginal cave paintings. As mentioned, Elspeth had already visited the paintings. Many of the pictures were on the ceilings of what are really a series of rock overhangs rather than caves. Interestingly the images show up better in photos than they do in real life. We have been told that it is fine to share these images with friends and family but were asked not to share them on social media.
    After lunch one of the naturalists, Francesca, gave a detailed and interesting talk entitled Stuck in the Mud in which she spoke about the many species of mangrove and the animal life which depends on them for survival.
    We had asked if we could have dinner with one of the naturalists and found in fact that we’d been allocated a table for four at which the other two were Brett, an older geologist and Vish, a young lady whose major area of interest was anthropology. The four of us had a great time and, while we’d had presentations and lectures from both of them it was good to be able to chat with them in an informal setting.
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  • Off to Porosis Creek
    Searching for crocs and other wildlifeYes, a young crocodileWe really enjoyed our many Zodiac excursionsBrian preparing the day's blog before retiring for the night.Pre-dinner drinks by the pool

    Where has all the wildlife gone?

    9 de junio de 2024, Australia ⋅ 🌙 18 °C

    Crocodiles, sharks, dolphins, crabs, mud-skippers and birds of all varieties. The Hunter River, where we were anchored, abounds in them and so much more. The morning started off really well with the rising sun shining brightly on a monolithic rock of sandstone and basalt nearby. We were to go on two zodiac tours during the day, The first, of 1.5 hours’ duration was around Porosus Creek, named after its major wildlife species, the dreaded crocodilus porosis australis which supposedly abounds in the area. Our ship would then move a short distance and we would then embark on a one hour zodiac expedition to circumnavigate the nearby Naturalist Island.
    The large number of bottle-nosed and snub-nosed dolphins visible around the boat as we were waiting to board our zodiacs got us all excited and seemed to augur well for the profusion of wildlife which we could expect to encounter on our morning excursion. It wasn’t to be. Cruising all along the mangrove-covered shoreline of Porosus Creek and up and down several of its narrow tributaries the best we could manage was the sight of a small croc sunning itself half out of the water on a mudbank. From a distance we could also see the fascinating mud-skippers jumping about while there were the occasional birds flying overhead, but that was pretty much it.
    Despite this, we weren’t too disappointed. It was still a very pleasant trip, the scenery was outstanding and there was a great deal to see, even if most of it was inanimate.
    The afternoon expedition was similarly anticlimactic with most of the wildlife having gone into hiding.. Those characteristic reddish-brown sculptured cliffs are fascinating and we got to learn a lot about the different species of mangrove which abound in the area and the various techniques which these plants use to survive in salty water. Our time definitely wasn’t wasted.
    On board as usual there was plenty going on, not to mention the unlimited quantities and varieties of tempting food and drink which was always beckoning. .Brian attended a lecture, “How to survive a crocodile attack; understanding an ancient predator.” The bottom line; you don’t stand a chance. The lecture in fact was very interesting and covered far more about the dreaded crocodile than the title suggested.
    Intriguingly, in the afternoon there was a scheduled showing of a 52-minute documentary entitled “The Maori Heritage” which didn’t really seem to relate to the theme of our expedition. A mixture of curiosity and patriotism persuaded the two of us to attend. We were literally the only ones in the entire theatre. It was a French production and pretty much in line with the title. However we found it to be rather trite and predictable and gave up partway through.
    During the day there was a so-called shark workshop which Brian also attended. It was really an informal talk and was certainly more appealing than the aforementioned film.
    The evening’s highlight was a beautiful sunset enjoyed by everyone while attending the captain’s cocktails on the boat deck.
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  • Approaching the famous Horizontal Falls
    Battling the incoming tideA school of sharks was attracted to the ship's lightsHorizontal FallsAdmiring the view from the Observation Deck

    Falling horizontally

    10 de junio de 2024, Australia ⋅ 🌙 21 °C

    Travelling overnight we arrived in the early morning at Talbot Bay. Many of the passengers were up on deck to see our ship squeeze through the narrow entrance passage at the scheduled time of 0811hrs. The bay itself is very scenic, being filled with many small rocky islands. As our geologist guide Brett told us, the area is a geologist’s paradise. Even to our untrained eyes the granite cliffs topped with sandstone appear complex and interesting with the distorted and folded layers indicating a complex and violent history. At around 1.8 million years these are among the oldest rocks in the Kimberley.
    Two zodiac tours were on the schedule. Our first, leaving at 0940hrs was for two hours, initially taking in a tour of the coastline within the bay and finishing with a visit to Horizontal Falls to view the incoming tide.
    As we moved around the bay, Brett took great delight in showing us the features and fine details of the rock structures. We were also on the lookout for the very agile rock wallabies which inhabit the area but we didn’t see any. Evidently they are very hard to spot except when they are moving.
    The area is renowned for its extreme tidal range which can exceed 14m, this being among the biggest in the world. Horizontal Falls is a gap about 30m wide between two cliffs through which the tides flow at an extremely rapid rate.
    This first visit to the falls was for us to experience the incoming tide. Apart from one crazy adventure company, boats generally don’t go through the gap as it is much too dangerous. In fact the traditional owners are banning all transits through the falls from next year. Our zodiacs definitely can’t get too close as they would get sucked into the gap and have nowhere near enough power to fight against it. We approached within about 30m of the gap and even there it was a wild and bumpy ride. We then returned to the ship in time for Elspeth to have a swim before our usual giant buffet lunch.
    After lunch Elspeth watched a documentary film, “The Kimberley; land of the Wandjina” which she thoroughly enjoyed while Brian enjoyed a less active doze next to the pool.
    At 1710hrs we were off again in the zodiacs, this time to experience the outgoing tide at Horizontal Falls. This was far less hazardous as the tidal flow was pushing us away rather than sucking us into the gap but it was an even wilder and more exciting ride. We witnessed one of the adventure company’s boats power through the gap and it was bouncing all over the place. It must have been a scary ride for those onboard.
    An unexpected bonus came early in the evening when a school of sharks visited, apparently chasing fish which were attracted to the lights from our ship.
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  • The amazing Montgomery Reef where the water is constantly flowing
    Getting ready to go to Montgomery ReefAboriginal cave paintings at Freshwater CoveCave paintings at Freshwater CoveThe gallery and shop, Freshwater CoveElspeth and friend enjoying champagne en route to Le Laperouse from Freshwater CoveA surprise diversion for champagne on the beach

    Good reef

    11 de junio de 2024, Australia ⋅ ☀️ 28 °C

    Our group was rostered for an early 6am start which caused a few moans and groans among the fellow passengers but both of us are early risers so it certainly wasn’t a problem. With calm, clear, mild weather it was great to be setting off early for the 15 minute zodiac ride to what is a totally unique place, Montgomery Reef. A bonus was being to watch a wonderful sunrise in a nice clear sky. The manner in which the extreme tides partially submerge then expose this extensive 400 sq km reef system means that water is flowing over its surface vigorously and continuously. It craetes an attractive environment for turtles, seabirds and other wildlife. Despite our expectations, we caught only very brief glimpses of the rather shy turtles as they momentarily stuck their heads above the water. There were however many seabirds visible including white and grey egrets, grey shore plovers and sea eagles.
    En route back to our ship a surprise awaited us as we diverted to a small sandy island where glasses of cold champagne were waiting.
    On our return there was an interesting and enlightening talk, “Introduction to sea turtles of Australia” where we learned a great deal about the seven species of turtle, one of which is endemic to Australia.
    The big event of the afternoon was a zodiac trip to Freshwater Cove to meet with an Aboriginal family living there a largely traditional lifestyle in extreme isolation. We were given the choice between a short walk inland from the beach or a far more demanding 1.5 hour return trip over some rough terrain to visit Aboriginal cave paintings. Brian elected to take the easy option and was thankful he did as the weather was rather warm. Elspeth meanwhile decided bravely to do the walk and we’re pleased to advise that she managed it rather well and only required some assistance over the rougher patches. She reported that the highlight for her day was having an Aboriginal elder from that area talking about the paintings. She arrived back safely to the ship and quickly revived after a martini.
    We then watched another wonderful sunset from the observation deck, a fitting end to a day in which we had also enjoyed the sunrise.
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