• Beautiful WellingtonBrisbaneWaikanae Beach with Kapiti in the background

      All good things must come to an end

      15 juni 2024, Indian Ocean ⋅ ☀️ 27 °C

      Our flight out of Broome was scheduled for 2pm, so we were delighted when Mangrove Resort extended our checkout time to midday. Not only that but they offered us their courtesy bus for the trip to the airport. Hence, we could enjoy much of the morning, when we weren’t packing, lazing by the pool.
      Not much to report about the trip home. Broome airport subjected everyone to the most rigorous security scans that we’d ever experienced. The flight was only about 1/3 full so we were able to spread ourselves out.
      Perth airport was a bit of a challenge. Brian’s flight was due to leave from the same domestic terminal, so that was fine, but trying to work out the departure arrangements for Elspeth’s Auckland flight was more difficult, with Qantas ground staff nowhere to be seen. In desperation Brian even tried to ask the girl behind the newsagent counter, but she knew even less than we did. Eventually we established that Elspeth had to catch a transfer bus to Terminal 1, but even the bus stop was well hidden. Eventually we made our fond farewells as Elspeth boarded the bus.
      Brian scored a points upgrade to Business Class for his flight to Brisbane, which was nice - again easing the transition from absolute luxury to everyday life. A short time luxuriating in the Business Lounge followed by a seat at the pointy end of the plane made for a comfortable trip home. Julie and Helen were there in the middle of the night to greet their father and drive him home.
      Even though everything went to plan the solo part of Elspeth’s homeward journey was more challenging, starting with the long overnight flight from Perth to Auckland. A bonus was breakfasting with daughter and son-in-law Jeannie and Simon who greeted her at Auckland airport before she boarded the flight to Wellington. She then endured a bus to the railway station, a train trip to Waikanae station and a bus home.
      Looking back, we agreed that it had been a great couple of weeks, and that our travel companion arrangement had worked well. Even in the confines of a small twin cabin we were able to accommodate each other’s habits and foibles without too much effort. Here’s to the next trip, wherever and whenever that may be!
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    • The famous Cable Beach camels
      The much-loved Lord McAlpine who put Cable Beach on the mapSome of the amazing rock formations at Gantheaume PointA few of the 4Wds at Cable Beach - to see the sunset but not the camelsElspeth in her element at Cable BeachThe Japanese cemeteryCable Beach just before sunsetCable BeachCamel ridersThe famous Cable Beach camels

      We sweep through Broome

      14 juni 2024, Australië ⋅ 🌙 25 °C

      The Mangrove Resort proved to be so tempting and comfortable that we could easily have stayed there and done nothing. It would however have done Broome a great injustice as there is quite a bit there to see and do. We were collected at 0830 for a 2.5 hour orientation tour which we had booked the previous day to explore Broome and immediate surroundings .
      Our starting point was the famous Cable Beach and the statue of Lord McAlpine, a true supporter of WA and the creator of Cable Beach out of nothingness. He is very much a local hero. Next stop was Gantheaume (pronounced ‘Gantam’) Point with its interesting rock formations and from where one can get spectacular views over the bay. Many dinosaur footprints have been discovered in the area. We then travelled to Roebuck Bay and from there to the impressive Japanese cemetery, With 900 headstones it is the biggest in Australia. Many of those buried there died very young from the effects of free-diving for pearls. Next stop was Town Beach and the World War II commemorative artwork. We finished at Chinatown (previously known as Japtown until WWII) , where we were dropped off. This is the town centre. After a light lunch we endured the heat for a ten minute walk in the blazing sun back to our resort and a very pleasant afternoon relaxing by the pool.
      Our sightseeing wasn’t over, and in the late afternoon we caught the local bus to Cable Beach, intending to see the famous camels. We were there strictly as spectators, neither of us having the slightest desire to ride one of these creatures. Crowds of people were heading down to the beach while there was also a massive procession of 4WDs heading there as well. In the end there must have been at least a couple of hundred vehicles lined up along the water’s edge. However there no more camels to be seen than there are on Waikanae or Surfers Paradise beach. After quizzing a couple of the locals we established that everyone was there to see the sunset. Mindil Beach all over again. It seems that people can’t get enough of sunsets, though admittedly, they are spectacular in that part of the world. On further enquiry we were told that the camels had left already and were heading northwards along the beach. They were well and truly out of sight, though a local told us that they would return eventually.
      The sun sank below the horizon on schedule (it usually does), and delivered us a beautiful sunset. At that stage most of the locals, both on foot snd in endless lines of 4WDs started to head off. It was at that time, just on dusk, when the long-awaited camels, two groups each of 14 animals, finally appeared. And what was the crowd’s level of excitement? Zero. A seagull landing on the sand would have received as much attention. We were among the very few people who bothered to take any notice. It seems mighty strange that a sunset, which happens in some form or other every single day and can be seen from many vantage points in Australia, can get people more excited than can the unusual spectacle of 28 camels walking in single file along a beach.
      All round it was an exciting and interesting day, and our last full day before we head back to reality.
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    • Mangrove Resort, the perfect way to wind down.
      Mangrove Resort, BroomeThe view from Mangrove Resort

      Halfway house

      13 juni 2024, Australië ⋅ 🌙 23 °C

      It is truly fantastic to be treated to an environment where one is waited on hand and foot and has access to unlimited food and drink. This is in total contrast to the reality of the home environment where there is nobody on hand to undertake the menial chores of cooking and cleaning, and one is struggling to prepare even the most basic meal. Surely it is unreasonable to expect anyone to make this traumatic change overnight. We were fortunate in that we had wisely planned for two nights at the Mangrove Resort in Broome which has proved to be very comfortable but with nowhere near the offerings and service aboard Le Laperouse. Our strategy is to make the transition from luxury ship to home as painless as possible.
      Disembarkation from the ship was handled very smoothly and methodically using a system which clearly has been refined over many voyages. We were instructed to have our bags packed and outside our cabins by the disgustingly early time of 6am. Fortunately we still had access to the cabins until 8am. Colour-coded labels were provided according to whether people would be flying out immediately or, like us, were going to various hotels. The system ran like clockwork and disembarking passengers together with their luggage got loaded on the appropriate buses.
      As planned we, along with quite a few others, were deposited at the Mangrove Resort, though our room wasn’t going to be ready until some time later. After exploring what looks like a rather magnificent resort with two swimming pools and many other great facilities we decided to kill time by exploring the town itself.
      The ‘five minutes’ walk up the road’ directions from the hotel receptionist clashed slightly with the reality of a 10-minute walk in the blazing sun, but we got there. Central Broome is actually quite large with many shops. Clearly the place is orientated towards the tourist trade because a large proportion of the places are either cafes or gift and souvenir shops. We used our time productively in finding a replacement for Elspeth’s almost-new lost sunglasses, having a light lunch (while recovering from the excesses of the previous night’s Gala Dinner) and booking a guided tour of Broome for the following day.
      We then wended our way back to the resort, unpacked and spent a totally lazy afternoon by the pool.
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    • The Captain's Gala Dinner, our last night on board
      Introducing the kitchen staffOne of the Lacepede islands - and that's a croc lying on the beachA boobySearching for foodBrian with shipboard friend AndreaElspeth with shipboard friend Carol

      Our last full day

      12 juni 2024, Australië ⋅ 🌙 25 °C

      A leisurely program was planned for our last full day at sea, the highlight being what was expected to be the best among all the places we had visited. This is the Lacapede Islands, famous for its proliferation of wildlife, Not only was Elspeth able to attend her morning gym class but could follow it up shortly after with a relaxation class. She even managed to squeeze in a swim before lunch.
      Both of us attended a nature talk entitled Migration which dealt not only with the well-known species of birds and whales but covered a lot of other ground as well (pun intended).
      We were scheduled to head off at 2pm for a 1.5 hour tour covering two of the four Lacapede islands. Unfortunately Brian was feeling slightly off and chose not to risk doing this tour. Most disappointing and frustrating as he recovered very quickly and probably would have been fine. Elspeth did the tour and thoroughly enjoyed it. As expected she saw huge numbers of turtles, though they were difficult to photograph as they would stick their heads above the water for just a few moments. This is the top place in the world for boobies and they were there in vast numbers, along with a myriad of other birds including many squawking pelicans. To add to the excitement a stingray floated under Elspeth's zodiac.
      There was a bit of tension as a 3.5m crocodile swam rather too closely alongside the zodiac. Earlier they had spotted a smaller croc sunning itself on the beach.
      Elspeth’s group returned just in time to attend our final daily briefing where we were somewhat put out to learn that we will have to have our luggage packed and outside our rooms by 6am the next morning.
      This last night was also the night of the captain’s Gala Dinner where again we were asked to dress in more formal attire. As before, it was mainly the women who complied, with many of the men still looking very casual. It was, nevertheless, quite a grand affair beginning with champagne all round. Then, in a highly choreographed but entertaining manner almost the entire crew of the ship were presented to us. Chefs, waiters, stewards, engineers, naturalists and so on came running in their respective groups on to the deck and were greeted with enthusiastic cheers and applause by the assembled passengers. It appears that the former are almost equal in number to the latter. There is no doubt that the service they provided over the entire voyage was impressive.
      Then followed the dinner itself, something like eight courses. The main course was duck and certainly none of the four of us at our table were able to finish their food. For Brian not to finish a duck dish is totally unprecedented, but coming after the previous nine days of over-indulgence it was just too much. The food certainly was spectacularly good. A great finale to a wonderful trip.
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    • The amazing Montgomery Reef where the water is constantly flowing
      Getting ready to go to Montgomery ReefAboriginal cave paintings at Freshwater CoveCave paintings at Freshwater CoveThe gallery and shop, Freshwater CoveElspeth and friend enjoying champagne en route to Le Laperouse from Freshwater CoveA surprise diversion for champagne on the beach

      Good reef

      11 juni 2024, Australië ⋅ ☀️ 28 °C

      Our group was rostered for an early 6am start which caused a few moans and groans among the fellow passengers but both of us are early risers so it certainly wasn’t a problem. With calm, clear, mild weather it was great to be setting off early for the 15 minute zodiac ride to what is a totally unique place, Montgomery Reef. A bonus was being to watch a wonderful sunrise in a nice clear sky. The manner in which the extreme tides partially submerge then expose this extensive 400 sq km reef system means that water is flowing over its surface vigorously and continuously. It craetes an attractive environment for turtles, seabirds and other wildlife. Despite our expectations, we caught only very brief glimpses of the rather shy turtles as they momentarily stuck their heads above the water. There were however many seabirds visible including white and grey egrets, grey shore plovers and sea eagles.
      En route back to our ship a surprise awaited us as we diverted to a small sandy island where glasses of cold champagne were waiting.
      On our return there was an interesting and enlightening talk, “Introduction to sea turtles of Australia” where we learned a great deal about the seven species of turtle, one of which is endemic to Australia.
      The big event of the afternoon was a zodiac trip to Freshwater Cove to meet with an Aboriginal family living there a largely traditional lifestyle in extreme isolation. We were given the choice between a short walk inland from the beach or a far more demanding 1.5 hour return trip over some rough terrain to visit Aboriginal cave paintings. Brian elected to take the easy option and was thankful he did as the weather was rather warm. Elspeth meanwhile decided bravely to do the walk and we’re pleased to advise that she managed it rather well and only required some assistance over the rougher patches. She reported that the highlight for her day was having an Aboriginal elder from that area talking about the paintings. She arrived back safely to the ship and quickly revived after a martini.
      We then watched another wonderful sunset from the observation deck, a fitting end to a day in which we had also enjoyed the sunrise.
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    • Approaching the famous Horizontal Falls
      Battling the incoming tideA school of sharks was attracted to the ship's lightsHorizontal FallsAdmiring the view from the Observation Deck

      Falling horizontally

      10 juni 2024, Australië ⋅ 🌙 21 °C

      Travelling overnight we arrived in the early morning at Talbot Bay. Many of the passengers were up on deck to see our ship squeeze through the narrow entrance passage at the scheduled time of 0811hrs. The bay itself is very scenic, being filled with many small rocky islands. As our geologist guide Brett told us, the area is a geologist’s paradise. Even to our untrained eyes the granite cliffs topped with sandstone appear complex and interesting with the distorted and folded layers indicating a complex and violent history. At around 1.8 million years these are among the oldest rocks in the Kimberley.
      Two zodiac tours were on the schedule. Our first, leaving at 0940hrs was for two hours, initially taking in a tour of the coastline within the bay and finishing with a visit to Horizontal Falls to view the incoming tide.
      As we moved around the bay, Brett took great delight in showing us the features and fine details of the rock structures. We were also on the lookout for the very agile rock wallabies which inhabit the area but we didn’t see any. Evidently they are very hard to spot except when they are moving.
      The area is renowned for its extreme tidal range which can exceed 14m, this being among the biggest in the world. Horizontal Falls is a gap about 30m wide between two cliffs through which the tides flow at an extremely rapid rate.
      This first visit to the falls was for us to experience the incoming tide. Apart from one crazy adventure company, boats generally don’t go through the gap as it is much too dangerous. In fact the traditional owners are banning all transits through the falls from next year. Our zodiacs definitely can’t get too close as they would get sucked into the gap and have nowhere near enough power to fight against it. We approached within about 30m of the gap and even there it was a wild and bumpy ride. We then returned to the ship in time for Elspeth to have a swim before our usual giant buffet lunch.
      After lunch Elspeth watched a documentary film, “The Kimberley; land of the Wandjina” which she thoroughly enjoyed while Brian enjoyed a less active doze next to the pool.
      At 1710hrs we were off again in the zodiacs, this time to experience the outgoing tide at Horizontal Falls. This was far less hazardous as the tidal flow was pushing us away rather than sucking us into the gap but it was an even wilder and more exciting ride. We witnessed one of the adventure company’s boats power through the gap and it was bouncing all over the place. It must have been a scary ride for those onboard.
      An unexpected bonus came early in the evening when a school of sharks visited, apparently chasing fish which were attracted to the lights from our ship.
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    • Off to Porosis Creek
      Searching for crocs and other wildlifeYes, a young crocodileWe really enjoyed our many Zodiac excursionsBrian preparing the day's blog before retiring for the night.Pre-dinner drinks by the pool

      Where has all the wildlife gone?

      9 juni 2024, Australië ⋅ 🌙 18 °C

      Crocodiles, sharks, dolphins, crabs, mud-skippers and birds of all varieties. The Hunter River, where we were anchored, abounds in them and so much more. The morning started off really well with the rising sun shining brightly on a monolithic rock of sandstone and basalt nearby. We were to go on two zodiac tours during the day, The first, of 1.5 hours’ duration was around Porosus Creek, named after its major wildlife species, the dreaded crocodilus porosis australis which supposedly abounds in the area. Our ship would then move a short distance and we would then embark on a one hour zodiac expedition to circumnavigate the nearby Naturalist Island.
      The large number of bottle-nosed and snub-nosed dolphins visible around the boat as we were waiting to board our zodiacs got us all excited and seemed to augur well for the profusion of wildlife which we could expect to encounter on our morning excursion. It wasn’t to be. Cruising all along the mangrove-covered shoreline of Porosus Creek and up and down several of its narrow tributaries the best we could manage was the sight of a small croc sunning itself half out of the water on a mudbank. From a distance we could also see the fascinating mud-skippers jumping about while there were the occasional birds flying overhead, but that was pretty much it.
      Despite this, we weren’t too disappointed. It was still a very pleasant trip, the scenery was outstanding and there was a great deal to see, even if most of it was inanimate.
      The afternoon expedition was similarly anticlimactic with most of the wildlife having gone into hiding.. Those characteristic reddish-brown sculptured cliffs are fascinating and we got to learn a lot about the different species of mangrove which abound in the area and the various techniques which these plants use to survive in salty water. Our time definitely wasn’t wasted.
      On board as usual there was plenty going on, not to mention the unlimited quantities and varieties of tempting food and drink which was always beckoning. .Brian attended a lecture, “How to survive a crocodile attack; understanding an ancient predator.” The bottom line; you don’t stand a chance. The lecture in fact was very interesting and covered far more about the dreaded crocodile than the title suggested.
      Intriguingly, in the afternoon there was a scheduled showing of a 52-minute documentary entitled “The Maori Heritage” which didn’t really seem to relate to the theme of our expedition. A mixture of curiosity and patriotism persuaded the two of us to attend. We were literally the only ones in the entire theatre. It was a French production and pretty much in line with the title. However we found it to be rather trite and predictable and gave up partway through.
      During the day there was a so-called shark workshop which Brian also attended. It was really an informal talk and was certainly more appealing than the aforementioned film.
      The evening’s highlight was a beautiful sunset enjoyed by everyone while attending the captain’s cocktails on the boat deck.
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    • Flying high

      8 juni 2024, Indian Ocean ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

      Despite being travel companions our paths barely crossed today. Elspeth’s morning gym classes coincide always with Brian’s preferred breakfast time, but we are generally in the same small tour groups and on most occasions we wine and dine together.
      However… Brian bravely decided to book himself on the Mitchell Falls helicopter tour which meant that his zodiac visit to Swift Bay would take place afterwards whereas Elspeth as the ground-dweller was scheduled to visit there in the morning. Fun fact: the bay is named after Jonathan Swift, the author of Gulliver’s Travels. He was a family friend of the early explorer of the region, Philip Parker King.
      Great excitement. A short zodiac ride to a nearby beach where three small choppers landed just a few minutes later. A detailed safety briefing from the pilot and it was all aboard a small four-passenger chopper. To enable better viewing the choppers don’t have side doors and Brian managed to score one of the side seats. The seats are very narrow and there’s a very strung downdraft from the rotor - 200kph according to the pilot. The only thing stopping the side passengers from falling out is the safety harness, and this certainly sprung to mind each time the chopper banked steeply to give us a better view. Dropping 1000 feet into the jaws of a waiting croc gives a whole new meaning to the term fresh food delivery.
      As expected, the views over the Mitchell Plateau during the 20 minute ride were great and we got an excellent birds-eye preview of the falls themselves.. Once we‘d landed it was a 500m walk, some of it over rocks and boulders, to the first lookout point. It provides a great view, but we had been told that the second lookout, 100m further on, was better still. We were also told that it requires a fair bit of agility, which isn’t Brian’s strong point these days. Of course he had to try and meet the challenge and get the best photos possible. It was certainly a difficult scramble but well worth it.
      There is a safe swimming hole near the helicopter landing site. Several people went in but Brian wasn’t tempted. The ride back to base was just as scenic, but viewed this time from the less breathtaking centre rear seat.
      Our return to the ship was late which meant a rapid turnaround for Brian to board another zodiac for the ten-minute ride to shore to see some more recent Aboriginal cave paintings. As mentioned, Elspeth had already visited the paintings. Many of the pictures were on the ceilings of what are really a series of rock overhangs rather than caves. Interestingly the images show up better in photos than they do in real life. We have been told that it is fine to share these images with friends and family but were asked not to share them on social media.
      After lunch one of the naturalists, Francesca, gave a detailed and interesting talk entitled Stuck in the Mud in which she spoke about the many species of mangrove and the animal life which depends on them for survival.
      We had asked if we could have dinner with one of the naturalists and found in fact that we’d been allocated a table for four at which the other two were Brett, an older geologist and Vish, a young lady whose major area of interest was anthropology. The four of us had a great time and, while we’d had presentations and lectures from both of them it was good to be able to chat with them in an informal setting.
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    • The famous graffiti in Careening Bay
      Admiring a spectacular sunset from the observation deckClear skies and beautiful sunsets. Drinks and a great view from the observation deck on Level 7.Amazing cycads at Careening BayCareening Bay cycadsA more recently inscribed boabOur group on Careening Bay beach

      Bay of boabs

      7 juni 2024, Australië ⋅ ☀️ 27 °C

      A nice easy day on the schedule. Elspeth began it by attending a talk entitled “Indigenous Astronomy” while the ever-cynical Brian decided that it was an oxymoron and chose to give it a miss. Elspeth found the talk interesting and was particularly intrigued with the concept of the ancient knowledge being seen as a cultural archive.
      We then had free time until 1230 when we set off for a short ten-minute Zodiac ride to the shore of Careening Bay. It takes its name from an expedition led by Philip Parker King in 1820 which was forced to beach its ship, the Mermaid, for repairs. The Mermaid had suffered damage in North Queensland but those onboard didn’t realise the seriousness of the damage until they had reached the Kimberley coast and it started taking in water at an alarming rate. They were fortunate that the extreme tidal variation in the area allowed them to careen their ship on sand which was often dry while they made it seaworthy again. They were there for 17 days, during which the ship’s carpenter carved the ship’s name and the date into the trunk of a nearby boab tree. This tree now has a girth of 12m and the original inscription is still highly visible. Today’s graffiti vandals should be envious as the tree with its historic inscription is now officially part of our national heritage. Aside from the boab trees the area is known for its impressive cycads and the for the many varieties of mangroves which thrive there.
      The day ended on an absolute high with a session of stargazing, held in total darkness on the uppermost level (Deck 7) of the ship. Our guides, using a laser pointer, were able to point to many stars and constellations in the night sky, The real revelation was in the number of stars which were visible, many times more than we ever manage to see in the skies above Brisbane. It was truly amazing to view the night sky in such detail and with such incredible clarity.
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    • The briefest overseas trip

      6 juni 2024, Australië ⋅ 🌬 26 °C

      Due to Australian Government regulations overseas-run ships such as Le Laperouse have to drop anchor in an overseas location at least once every twenty days. Otherwise, presumably, they are regarded as Australia-based and would have to be crewed by overpaid Australian sailors. To comply with this absurd requirement, on the trip from Darwin to Broome the ship diverts out to Ashmore Reef 320 kilometres offshore in the Timor Sea. On the northbound return journey this legal requirement isn’t necessary.
      The expectation for this day of visiting an exotic location is that there would be no Zodiac excursions. In keeping with our newly-established routine Elspeth began her daily activities by attending a pre-breakfast gym class while Brian busied himself with sorting out the previous day’s photos and blog. We then attended an interesting lecture from Brett, our resident geologist, on the geology of the Kimberley. It was followed shortly after by a somewhat less interesting lecture “Navigating Nature - Understanding Water Signs” given by one of the other naturalists.
      This was a day of informative lectures, with Elspeth then going to a late morning workshop on bird identification while Brian headed up to the Observation Lounge to meet with Alex, the ship's official photographer, and practise using some of the more advanced features of his camera. By then our ship had reached Ashmore Reef and had dropped anchor a kilometre or so away from a moored Australian Border Force vessel.
      It was during this period that the captain’s voice came over the loudspeakers with a major announcement. We were going to be able to go on Zodiacs to the reef lagoon. Evidently this is a huge privilege which occurs only occasionally on these trips. Not only does the captain have to be confident that the conditions are right but the Border Force people have to give their OK. While we wouldn’t be going ashore it would give us a chance to take a closer look at the wildlife. We were warned that the sea was a bit rough and the Zodiacs would be bounced around. Elspeth, along with many other passengers, elected not to go, while Brian chose to join the brave and foolhardy. We would travel for about half an hour each way and would spend half an hour at the reef.
      The Zodiacs set out in a convoy carrying half of the reef passengers and when that group returned they would take the second group, which included Brian. The first contingent duly returned, all of them wildly excited. The place was so full of wildlife, with turtles surfacing everywhere around them, but a red-footed booby had actually landed on one woman’s head and had calmly sat there for about three minutes. But then came the anticlimax, A mere one hour later Brian and his fellow passengers in the second group saw far less. A couple of people got brief glimpses of surfacing turtles but apart from them and the occasional passing sea-bird there was virtually nothing. Despite this Brian thoroughly enjoyed the experience and returned happy but soaked.
      Continuing in the manner to which we’d like to become accustomed we headed once again to enjoy cleansing pre-dinner ales in the Observation Lounge with its 270 degree views high up on the sixth level. After then attending the daily briefing about the following day’s exciting planned activities we rolled up to another beautiful dinner in the Nautilus restaurant - just the usual sequence of amuse bouche, appetiser, main course, cheese and then dessert. For the first time on this trip the sea was somewhat choppy and poor Elspeth decided to restrict herself to a mere two courses.
      From there we went downstairs to the quiz night where our ad hoc four person team performed quite respectably.
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