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Camino de Santiago 2024
  • Kurt Bonhamer

Camino de Santiago 2024

A 36-day adventure by Kurt Read more
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  • Kurt BonhamerCamino de Santiago 2024Traveler

    Rabanal del Camino

    May 15, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 50 °F

    The worst of the weather held off long enough to get today’s walk in, but it was windy and cold as the mountains grew closer.
    Breakfast is usually fairly small - toast, juice, and coffee; leading many to stop for second breakfast after the first hour or so of walking. Today’s second breakfast lead to a surprise reunion of about 12 of us that someone knew each other, some we didn’t realize knew each other through other connections. The wind and cold made our reunion on picnic tables outside short, and before long we were on our way to our respective destinations.
    Tonight a number of us visited the local monetary for a Gregorian chant service.    Read more

  • Kurt BonhamerCamino de Santiago 2024Traveler
    2

    Molinaseca

    May 16, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 54 °F

    This morning I was in and out of the fog line as I went over each hill and then into a valley. Sometimes the wildflowers seemed to be out of a Bob Ross pairing. Other times the deep forest and fog made it seem like I was in a Steven King novel.

    Eventually, I reached the Cruz de Ferro (Iron Cross) which is the highest elevation point on the Camino. It is traditional to bring a rock in your backpack and leave it there, to symbolize leaving your burdens at the cross, and that it is all downhill from there. Many carry stones in memory of loved ones, also. I left a stone that I gathered from my uncle’s yard when I was in California for his memorial service.

    Unfortunately the weather was less than ideal - it was windy and actually snowed for a minute while I was there, so I didn’t as stay long as I would’ve liked. The descent was so muddy that some of us decided to walk on the road for a few miles.

    Eventually we were out of fog, and I continued my slow descent into Molinaseca. The architecture has started to change as I approach Gallacia, as more stone buildings have started to appear.    Read more

  • Kurt BonhamerCamino de Santiago 2024Traveler
    1

    Villafranca del Bierzo

    May 17, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 57 °F

    This morning’s walk started with 6 miles go Ponferrada, home of the Knights’ Templar Castle. While waiting for it to open I had breakfast with some friends I ran into.
    The hot chocolate was delicious , but so thick - I think they just melted a candy bar. I used some of it to top my pancakes, since they didn’t have any syrup.
    The castle grounds were huge and fully open to walk around and explore. It was visually the highlight of the day, as most of the rest of the walk was along the roadside, in and of of towns.
    Villafranca is relatively small, so what started as 3 of us having dinner turned into 12 as someone would walk by, know someone at our table and join us.    Read more

  • Kurt BonhamerCamino de Santiago 2024Traveler
    2

    La Laguna

    May 18, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 48 °F

    What a Camino day! The sun never came out, or if it did, never for long. I was reminded of the Smoky Mountains by the scenry. If we’ve ever been to the Smokies, camping, whitewater rafting - or even talked about those topics, you were thought of today

    Spain’s older roads pass through the villages, while the modern highways go over them. It makes for some interesting scenery.

    Two memorable things.
    A rancher was walking his cattle down the road for miles, when some made a break for it and turned back towards us, so I guess I did participate in the running of the bulls. The owner ensured us it was safe to pass the reaming part of the herd. I could’ve touched the bull as I passed. Later on while we were eating lunch, the herd, under control passed by us, again.
    After lunch it started raining…. Just in time for the steepest part of the entire Camino. So the final 5 miles were uphill in cold weather, ankle deep mud, that then turned into a running creek. Needless to say that the rest of afternoon consisted of a hot shower, then sitting under a blanket in my bunk as the rain came down.    Read more

  • Kurt BonhamerCamino de Santiago 2024Traveler

    Tricastela

    May 19, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 54 °F

    What a difference a day makes. This morning I crossed into the region of Galicia. The trails instantly improved. The weather was foggy , with some occasional mist and drizzle. The views through the fog were impressive. Combined it may for an enjoyable day of walking. There were more cows be walked through the streets today, but no run aways.
    I can’t believe there are only 6 more days of walking until reaching Santiago! We are all excited that the goal is within reach.    Read more

  • Kurt BonhamerCamino de Santiago 2024Traveler

    Sarria

    May 20, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 59 °F

    The sun came out day and it didn’t rain while we were walking! Today felt like an easy walking day for the first time in a few days. The small climb out of Triacastela took is above the fog layer. Each small village had cattle (we’ve called this stretch the cow-mino). Talk of getting close to the end is a mixture of excitement and reflection both internally and on conversations.
    In Sarria, the local delicacy is octopus. There was a market selling and cooking it in the town square. I didn’t feel the need to try it again. Later, we had a final dinner with one of the pilgrims stopping here for his son to arrive and walk the final few days with him.    Read more

  • Kurt BonhamerCamino de Santiago 2024Traveler

    Portomarín

    May 21, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 59 °F

    I crossed into the final 100km of my Camino today. At times it seems like this has been going on for a while; in other ways it seems like I’ve come a long way in a short time.
    Heavy rain again for the first hour. Andre and I went separate ways at a split in the trail only to find each other at the first coffee shop after the trail reunited
    Many additional pilgrims start their Camino in Sarria, as it can be completed in a week. We saw 2 bus loads of school kids in Sarria about to start, in addition to several large groups during the walk. The additional pilgrims on the walk.
    The final mile was a steep descent, only to have to climb up a staircase to enter the city. A small group was able to gather dinner. Overall a good day, though    Read more

  • Kurt BonhamerCamino de Santiago 2024Traveler
    3

    Palas de Rei

    May 22, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 55 °F

    Another day in and out of the rain. Good thing the poncho is holding up! The countdown is really on at this point, as each signpost marks my journey closer Santiago. Galicia continues to be beautiful and green despite the rain. I have gotten used to a light breakfast - toast and coffee; followed by second breakfast - coffee/orange juice and a pastry (maybe bacon and eggs) a few hours later. Going back to one breakfast may be difficult 🤔

    I left my phone charger in Portomarín, so when my phone battery died it made for an interesting scramble in and out of 6 stores this afternoon looking for a charger, each one pointing me to another location (with no GoogleTranslate or Maps to help). I finally found one, and reconnected with a fellow pilgrim in time for dinner.    Read more

  • Kurt BonhamerCamino de Santiago 2024Traveler

    Arzúa

    May 23, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 61 °F

    I almost escaped the rain. Only 15-20 minutes of it though. The rest of the time the sun was out and I even got to wear shorts and a t-shirt for the afternoon. That really puts a Floridian in a good mood!

    The backpack felt light today (I didn’t forget anything) and it went by quickly, despite going almost 20 miles.
    Now that it’s over, I truly feel in shape for this. My feet look forward to the end though 😂

    After dinner, an Irish pilgrim I met on day 3 and haven’t seen since appeared in my hostel. Great to catch-up with him and some others from the start.    Read more

  • Kurt BonhamerCamino de Santiago 2024Traveler

    A Lavacolla

    May 24, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 73 °F

    Today I passed many people I had met along the way and spent time reflecting on my journey. After lunch I passed through one of the last rural area and for a brief time, I was the only one in-sight, walking through a natural canopy. It was a nice break from the morning, which was packed with what seemed like a line of people .
    Each pilgrim carries their own credentials “ pilgrim’s passport” and gets a stamp at their hostels, church, or other places they visit. I was an able to find someone who creates a wax stamp, and got that added to my passport.

    I ended the day only 6 miles from the cathedral square in Santiago.    Read more

  • Kurt BonhamerCamino de Santiago 2024Traveler

    Santiago de Compestela

    May 25, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 57 °F

    Over a million steps (a few missteps), I have arrived in Santiago de Compostela. It’s such a mixed set of emotions, that will take time to process. I’ll be here until Monday and will post more in the next few days. For now, I’m taking it all in and celebrating with friends I met along the way. It’s great to see fellow pilgrims in the street that you’ve seen, but don’t know theirs name or language they speak - yet still you wave, high five, say cheers or congratulations to.

    My shoes are officially trashed - held together by medical/sports tape for the last 200km. Fortunately, I had a bag of clothes and comfortable sneakers waiting for me in Santiago that o had shipped ahead on day 1. It was nice to wear something different for a change - too bad many of my clothes are too big now!    Read more

  • Kurt BonhamerCamino de Santiago 2024Traveler

    Santiago de Compestela II

    May 27, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 64 °F

    The last few days have been filled with reunions, goodbyes, and sharing stories over great food and drink with fellow pilgrims. I was also able to take a night tour of the cathedral, with only 25 people in it. I’ll try to put some random statements together into something coherent.

    The pilgrims on the Camino restore faith in humanity - 99.99% of the people I met, I would like to have as a neighbor or friend. Stories of returned wallets by someone walking miles out of their way, looking out for those who got sick or injured, paying for someone’s meal, paying it forward, getting to know the person for who they are and not who they vote for. Language barriers exist, but so does understanding that overcomes it.

    We all walked our own Camino, for different reasons, learning more about others, but also ourselves. Now, it’s time for me to leave, trying to put what I learned into practice… but as I head home a quick 24 hour layover in Dublin.    Read more

    Trip end
    May 27, 2024
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