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  • Day 20

    Search for a Good Raicilla (Rye-see-ya)

    December 30, 2019 in Mexico ⋅ 🌙 12 °C

    Mexican Moonshine - Tequilla, Mescal, Raicilla. We had heard of the first two but Raicilla? What is Raicilla?

    In a few days we will be meeting up with our Bellingham friends, Pat and Gail in the beach town north of Vallarta. A few happy hours will probably be on our presently non-existent agendas. So ...why not look into finding a good raicilla to take to Chacala?

    Raicilla is a pre-hispanic, moonshine-style version of mezcal that is distilled in the Jalisco coastal towns like Puerto Vallarta and its surrounding little villages, such as Mascota. Coastal raicilla tastes different than the raicilla made from a small wild agave grown in the mountains.

    The process of making raicilla is similar to that of Oaxacan mezcal.

    1. Grow a wild agave (typically Maximilana or Lechuguilla) for six to eight years.
    2. Fire-roast it in a clay oven.
    3. Mash it by hand in an oak ‘ canoe-shaped’ log trough.
    3. Ferment the shredded cooked agave “mash” in wooden oak barrels.
    4. Distill once.
    5. Water down with fresh spring water.

    (Distilling tequila requires Blue Agaves to be steamed in stainless steel ovens.)

    The drink itself is ancient but has started to become an upscale drink. I believe that it is now sold in the U.S. and quite expensive. Funny knowing that it was once a humble beverage, primarily enjoyed by farmers.

    Mezcal was forbidden and taxed heavily after the Spanish conquest. So production moved underground. When tax collectors came to small villages, locals lied and said that it wasn’t made from the piña or agave heart (which was taxable) but from its root (raicilla)” — which, of course, is the same thing. They called the drink Raicilla which means “Little Root”.

    We have seen bottles of Raicilla all over town and when we first arrived, there was a raicilla festival taking place. We learned that the best raicilla is made from the wild Maximilia agave plant, which is known as Lechugilla here. It grows in the mountains surrounding the town

    The raicilla museum here is housed in a very old mansion in the centre of town, which is being renovated right now. Not much of a museum but we were able to sample a few shots. Strong stuff (70 - 150+ proof!). The people who enjoy drinking it, take it straight, on the rocks or mixed with Squirt/grapefruit juice.

    Buying a bottle of raicilla for us would be a hit or miss when it comes to quality and taste. We don’t know enough about good and bad, or the cost of a bottle. So, we thought that we would ask our land lady, who would most likely could give us good advice regarding what kind and where to buy it.

    I did do some research and the few good commercial raicillas kept coming up, like the white Estancia Raicilla Maximiliana. But that raicilla is made in the neighbouring town, Estancia, and we wanted something from Mascota.

    Well, Margarita gave us more than good advice. She asked her husband, who grew up in this area,
    if he would find us some good quality stuff. He kindly went out to a ranch and he got us the real
    deal. No label and in a 2 litre plastic bottle. Thanks Andres!

    So, Pat and Gail, are you ready for a few (lol) 4 o’clock happy hours with ‘the best’?

    P.S. We did find a great roast chicken place and bought a full chicken, coleslaw, tortillas and salsa for dinner.

    No label and in a 2 litre plastic bottle. He assured us that it was really good.

    Well, Margarita gave us more than good advice. She asked her husband, who has lived here all of

    his life, out to get us some good stuff. We got the real deal, without a label!

    I did do a little research and Estancia Raicilla Maximilia keep popping up as a good commercial
    raicilla. But that is made in Estancia, not Mascota. We will see what Margarita says.
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