Day 3 - Sailing Up the Nile

Yesterday, we moored in Gilbil El Silsila where the cliffs on both sides make this spot the narrowest point on the Nile. At one time a long chain was strung across the river and people had to stop to show what they were carrying and pay a tax before going on. We actually saw the hole that the chain went through the rock on our side.

During the early morning the Nile is lovely. It is so calm, quiet and peaceful. While we were doing a little birdwatching, we noticed that some plastics have collected at the side of the river - water bottles mainly, as well as plastic bags, etc., but not a lot yet. Most garbage is burned from what I can see.

About 430 species of birds have been seen in Egypt. We saw herons, a bittern, plovers, kingfishers, swamp hens, ducks, egrets and an osprey in this spot. Of course, we have seen lots of pigeons, house sparrows and crows too, but we are actively looking for a sighting of a hoopoe or a black ibis.

Once again, we had beautiful weather. After eating a hearty Egyptian breakfast, we went ashore and checked out this site.

The pyramids in Cairo were made primarily of limestone but the temples in Luxor and the areas south of it were made of blocks of sandstone. Gebel El Silsila was the major quarry site for sandstone. Blocks were cut out and floated down the Nile to Luxor tied to tree trunks. Thousands of workers lived here.

Shrines dedicated to Horemheb, Seti I, Ramesses II and Merenptah were carved into the rock here. You could see that the Christians were here as white crosses were painted over the images in several spots. We walked along the shore and saw where masons carved their signatures and saw several old tombs. Our guide can read hieroglyphs so he explained what the writing said.

We returned to the boat and continued up the Nile towards the double temple of Haroeris and Sobek the crocodile god in Kom Ombo.

But before we got there, we had an opportunity to go swimming in the Nile! The boat stopped at a sandy beach and several brave souls, including the two of us, donned bathing suits and jumped into the cold water (18C?). We were surprised by the strength of the current even just a few meters away from the shore.

A delicious and healthy warm lunch was served shortly afterwards. I must say that we have only eaten very tasty Egyptian meals - lots of different local vegetables at every meal, a meat, pasta or rice, a salad, bread and more. The food is served attractively in big dishes that we pass around. For lunch today, we had carrots, cauliflower, zucchini, chicken, pasta and salad. So good.

By the time that we finished lunch, we were close to Kom Ombo. We had travelled through fertile farming areas where sugar cane grew and cows and water buffalo grazed. Kingfishers swooped down and water birds waded in the shallow water. In the past, sacred crocodiles basked in the sun on the banks.

We rounded a bend in the Nile and saw the city. At one time it was an important trading centre and military base. Gold was traded here but more importantly African elephants that were brought in from Ethiopia.

We docked and then walked a short distance, through children selling trinkets, to the temple. As the temple was dedicated to two gods, it was built in a symmetrical manner. Two entrances, two linked halls with carvings of the two gods on either side, two altars, and twin sanctuaries. I read that there may even have been two groups of priests.

As usual, we were in awe of the carvings and the height of the temple. Supposedly it took 400 years to build this temple. Building it up must have been a feat as the blocks are so big. Abdullah told us that they built sand ramps and used animals to pull the blocks up to the top. It took years to get them in place, Then the carvings were started and painted.

Outside of the temple, we visited the Crocodile Museum that houses the mummies of 40 sacred crocodiles ranging from 2- 5 m long. There were crocodile coffins and sarcophagi, eggs and fetuses and statues of the crocodile god.

On our return to the boat, we noticed that the harbour had filled up with cruise ships and taking people on tours to see the temple. Our beautiful sailboat is so much nicer than the ships we saw. Also, we can go into and stop at places that the bigger ships can’t. And best of all the boat moves silently. We all love it.

We moved on to the island of Maniha, where the Dahabiya will moor for the night. It has been a full day so we are all just relaxing, reading or writing before our 7 p.m. dinner. What a life…Read more