A Walk Through the Old Jewish Quarter

Before we left home, I cut up a Rick Steve’s Andalucia guidebook and just took pages of the places where we were going to stay. He recommends several interesting places in Seville, including a walk in the old Jewish area, so we decided to check it out after eating a filling breakfast that was included in the price of the hotel room.

We packed up our belongings and the receptionist said that they would move our stuff to a new room when it was ready while we were out.

So with Rick Steve’s guide we went to visit “ the narrow lanes of its oldest quarter - the Barrio Santa Cruz”.

This area, once a thriving Jewish neighbourhood, was a maze of winding narrow streets. We were thankful for the little map that we had! But getting lost in this area would have been fun too. Apparently, the streets were built narrow for their shade when it gets really hot here. It reminded us of the medinas in Marrakesh.

Anyways, we started in the Plaza de La Virgen de Los Reyes where the huge cathedral and Giraldo bell tower are located. So much history surrounds this square! The tower has blocks at the bottom from when Seville was a Roman city, 2,000 years ago. The main body of the tower was built by the Moors as a call-to-prayer tower for a mosque and the top was built by the Christian’s in the 16th Century. All of Seville’s history in one tower.

We opted out of visiting the cathedral as the line ups for entry were very long. Maybe another time. Maybe…We have seen a lot of churches! One interesting fact though… there were columns and chains around the cathedral. Why? If a person from Seville was running from the law, they just had to cross these chains to find sanctuary. A border between the secular and Catholic worlds centuries ago.

We proceeded on to the Plaza del Triumfo that is surrounded by the walled Alcazar (palace fortress), the cathedral and the archives building which is filled with historic papers.

Going through an arched opening in an old wall, we ended up in the Patio de Banderas, an old military parade ground surrounded by barracks. Under this area, archaeologists found remains of a Moorish palace and 2,000 year old Roman ruins. They excavated it and then covered the site up to protect it.

We learned something interesting. This patio is surrounded by bitter orange trees. Because they never lose their leaves, they provide constant shade. The oranges are used to make vitamins, perfumes, cat food and marmalade. When they blossom in the spring, it smells lovely for 3 weeks. Bitter orange leaves have a tiny extra leaf between the main leaf and the stem.

We passed a gate and went into a lane way next to an old city wall called the Calle Agua. At the end of the road are 2 old pipes built into the wall. These 12th century pipes, part of a 16 km aqueduct, once carried fresh spring water to the palace.

The heart of the barrio (neighbourhood, is a lovely little square called Plaza de Santa Cruz. A synagogue used to stand here. When the Jews were evicted in 1391, the building was demolished and a Christian church built on the spot. But then Napoleon had it demolished when he invaded. Now, there is a beautiful 17th century iron cross on the spot.

We passed the mansion where Seville’s famous painter, Bartolome Murillo lived during the 17th century. Across the street was a convent that the renowned mystic St. Teresa of Avila lived.

Then, we walked on an incredibly narrow street, Calle Reinoso, that was called a kissing street. This led to the Plaza de Los Venerables that inspired so many operas like Don Giovanni, Carmen, The Barber of Seville and The Marriage of Figaro.

Our last little square was the Plaza of Dona Elvira, a cute square with orange trees, tile benches and a stone fountain. Dona Elvira was the lady love of the legendary Don Juan.

After the Jews were expelled, this whole area went into decline. In the early 1900s it was deserted and run down. But then Seville began a big urban renewal project preparation for the 1929 World’s Fair and the area became a showpiece of Andalusian style. Tradition was respected and the neighbourhood’s 800 year old history carries on.

Thanks Rick! A great free walking tour with no tips!Read more