Andalucia, Spain

janvier - mars 2024
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  • 99empreintes
  • 67jours
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  • Our Hotel - Casa de Reyes

    30 janvier 2024, Espagne ⋅ ☀️ 8 °C

    As we were leaving the hotel to do a morning walk, our hostess Carmen waylaid us and told us to come with her as she wanted to show us something.

    She told us that the owner of the hotel owned 5 buildings in a row and had the plan to make a big hotel that contained a museum of medieval objects. She opened the door to House 13 and we were stunned by what we saw.

    We walked into a medieval foyer full of large olive wood carvings, knights in armour, swords, shields, heraldry, stained glass and even a large Don Quixote and Sancho Panza sculpture! It was the hotel’s museum.

    Once we got over the initial shock of seeing such a room, Carmen told us to look around as she had to get back to her desk. We could look around and then close the door when we were done.

    Well, the next room was a medieval dining room with a table set for six. The next room was once again jaw-dropping with what looked like two huge doll houses.

    You have to check out the photos. It goes without saying (but I’m saying it anyways) we were pleasantly surprised by our ‘detour’.
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  • Beer, Tinto de Verano, and migas tapas
    Chicken pate, toast, olivesAn egg on ratatouilleSaladChicken, vegetables and couscousRibs and potatoesChickpea tapas

    A “ Menu del Dia” & Free Tapas

    30 janvier 2024, Espagne ⋅ ☀️ 15 °C

    Did I mention that tapas are free here with a drink? With every round of drinks, you also get a free and delicious small plate of food. It’s part of the local food culture.

    Tapas can range from something as simple as a plate of olives or potato chips to a bowl of stew with bread. In Granada, some of the tapas we ate or saw included fried fish, soup, olives, ham, croquettes and even mini hamburgers.

    If you are smart and don’t want to spend money on food all you have to do is order the caña, a small beer, 8-10 oz. It’s not quite equivalent to a can of beer. The benefit of ordering a caña is that it still comes with a plate of tapas. Yes, it’s smaller, but it’s also cheaper. The caña is the perfect companion to tapas. Lol.

    Our hostess suggested a great place for tapas in Granada called Las Bodegas Castañeda. It is right in the middle of the old town, just around the corner from Plaza Nueva.

    It looks like the kind of place that would be a tourist trap with Its decor - legs of ham ready to be sliced at the entrance, stuffed bull heads, big barrels made into tables and plenty of wood. It looked a bit like a movie set of a tapas bar, designed to bring in tourists. But I think that we were the only tourists there.

    So, we went in to get a drink and try their Menu del Dia (menu of the day) , for around $18 Cdn each. We ordered an Alhambra beer and a new drink for me - Tinto de Verano, red wine, soda, lemon and ice. Mmmn. So refreshing. Of course, two tapas came with the drinks called Migas. And olives and toast. Delicious. Will we really need a big lunch?

    Next came the menu choices - 5 starters, then 5 main courses and small dessert. Oh, oh.
    But we had already walked 8 km and it was 3 pm…

    I chose a salad (enough for a meal) and Chris chose a vegetable stew (like ratatouille). Both were so tasty. Can we eat more?

    Our main courses were ribs over potatoes and a chicken in sauce dish over couscous. It was so good and I felt like another Tinto de Verano!!! Guess what another tapa came with it - some bean dish that neither of us could even think of eating!

    Then a dessert? No way! We got it to take home with us - a small traditional pastry that is soaked in Sherry. We saved that to have later with our tea.

    What a meal! We’ll have to walk another 8 km after I recover from my Tintos!
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  • Pomegranates (Granadas)

    River Walk and a Perfume Museum

    31 janvier 2024, Espagne ⋅ ☀️ 8 °C

    On our way to the Alhambra, there were a lot of things to see and we had a bit of time to check things out before our guided tour at 12 p.m.

    We went into the daily market and picked up a bocadillo (sandwich) and then walked beside the lovely Darro River on the narrow, cobblestone Carrera del Darro that is at the foot of the Alhambra. Cute stone and brick bridges, built in the 17th Century, cross over the river and its little waterfalls.

    There were numerous and interesting buildings from the 16th and 17th Centuries as well as remains of Arab houses from the Nasrid period. There are also old convents, palatial houses, churches and historical buildings along the road.

    We stopped and went in a beautiful Renaissance palace from the 17th century, originally built by the Marqués de Sálar. It has been transformed into a Museum of Perfume.

    The front section had a store with perfumes made from the region’s plants like patchouli, sandalwood, lavender, frankincense, myrrh, etc. Downstairs , we saw photos of the interesting history of this area’s perfumes. There were ancient flasks that were used for storage and an explanation of the newest present-day extraction techniques used for modern scents.

    Outside, there was an open air patio full of aromatic plants and fresh herbs. It was a serene and beautiful space. Chris just wanted to return with his book and read there all day.

    A nice smelling side trip.
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  • Chris took a perfect photo of the reflection pool
    AqueductHigh hedgesOverlooking the gardensWater and gardens everywhereKing Charles palaceThe inside of Charles palace was roundIf someone stands in the middle, everyone around can easily hear him/her.The fortress.

    The Alhambra

    31 janvier 2024, Espagne ⋅ ☀️ 12 °C

    The Royal Alhambra Palace was built in the 1200s by a Muslim king named Muhammed Al-Ahmar. He was the founder of the Nasrid Dynasty (the last Muslim dynasty in the Iberian peninsula), and he ruled over the region of Granada for many years.

    However, during the Reconquista (1492 in Granada), the Christians took back Spain from the Moors. The Alhambra Palace was also recaptured during this time and, since then, has been ruled only by Christian kings. Despite this, the architecture of Alhambra has remained predominantly Islamic, making both the interior and exterior exceptionally beautiful to look at.

    Because of its fascinating story, it’s no surprise that the Alhambra is one of Spain’s most visited historical sites. In fact, its history and beauty are so incredible that it’s been made a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

    Two weeks ago, I booked a tour with Get Your Guide, as was recommended by many people- both booking early and booking a tour. Both were good recommendations. Apparently, 3,000 people visit it every day. Wandering around the Alhambra and not knowing what you are looking at wouldn’t be a good idea.

    So we met our guide and 25 other English speaking people at 12 pm. We had to have our passports or ID with us as we were checked three times during the tour. Backpacks and big purses were checked too. We were given headsets so we could hear our guide. Great idea! Now we were ready to enter.

    The Palace of Alhambra is mammoth! The palaces and the grounds sit within a large area, so it takes a fairly long time to walk between and around the sites. For this reason, our tour lasted about 3 hours and we walked 6 km.

    We saw three different areas, starting with the Generalife area.

    Generalife was the recreational residence of the sultan and his family. This villa is located a short distance from the Alhambra and stands out for its gardens, which were once orchards. The most striking part of the Generalife is the main courtyard, which represents the Muslim concept of paradise - lovely walkways, fountains, tall hedges, and giant ancient trees. In the spring/summer, the gardens must be really beautiful when the flowers and rose gardens burst into bloom. We spent around an hour wandering through this peaceful place.

    The second place we visited was the oldest part of the Alhambra - the military fortress of Alcazaba. It is located on the highest point and looks out over the city, so it’s easy to see why this building was chosen as the best location for defense. There is a bell tower that we climbed up via a narrow circular staircase for incredible views over the city of Granada and the valley below. We could see across the valley to the old city wall, the Cave Houses and the San Nicolas viewpoint where we were yesterday. At the base of the tower, was the Plaza de Armas, where we saw the foundations of the quarters where the military forces were housed, as well as some dungeons and a beautiful garden area. This took another hour.

    The final hour was spent in the Nasrid Palaces - the pièces de résistance. The Nasrid Palaces were the primary homes of the Moorish kings, full of typical Muslim architecture with beautiful baths, tilework, and extraordinary Moorish courtyards all with with stunning fountains. You could hear the tourists, ‘Wowing’ as they entered new rooms, each one a gorgeous work of art.

    The Palace of Comares is built around the courtyard of the Myrtles. Its main pool has one of the most famous images of the Alhambra, a gorgeous reflecting pool. In total, three monarchs were involved in its construction. It houses the famous Throne Room, where politics were made, and rooms where parties were held.

    The Palace of the Lions or Harem was the private area of Sultan Mohammed V, who resided here with his family and his harem. Here is the famous Patio de Los Leones, the crown jewel of the Alhambra..

    Every detail in these palaces is breathtaking - the stonework carved into the most beautiful patterns and even the heavy wooden towers carved with beautiful Islamic-style details. It’s hard to believe you’re in Spain and not in Morocco! Those old rulers certainly lived the life of luxury!

    Next to the Nasrid Palaces, we went into the palace of Charles V, (Queen Isabella and King Ferdinand’s grandson) which is a complete contrast. This palace is from the Christian time of the Royal Alhambra, so there are huge differences between the architectural styles. This palace was built in the newer Renaissance style, a far cry from Islamic architecture. However, it’s still extraordinarily beautiful with its expansive circular courtyard, massive columns, and circular ceiling opening where you can see the blue Granada sky. Emperor Charles V decided to build this palace near the Alhambra for his own pleasure and that of his family.

    Although its construction began in 1527, due to a lack of funds and internal revolts in Granada, the Palace was not completed until the twentieth century. It currently houses the Museum of Fine Arts and the Museum of the Alhambra.

    After the tour, we were told that we could stay in the Alhambra until 6 pm, to visit the museum and wander around on our own but we decided that we couldn’t take in much more of all of the Alhambra’s sensual and historical splendour. We had walked up a very steep road to get there and now we had another 3 km walk home so we decided to head back to the hotel We grabbed a quick lunch on the way and then headed home for a well-deserved rest.

    Writing about this place and even our photos do not do this place justice. You have to see it to believe it!
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  • And Even More Alhambra Photos!

    31 janvier 2024, Espagne ⋅ ☀️ 14 °C
  • Massive columnsCleaning the ceiling!Look now mall the person is who is cleaning the floor!One set of organ pipes. The other set were on the other side!!!!The King and Queens chapel

    The Incredible Granada Cathedral

    1 février 2024, Espagne ⋅ ⛅ 10 °C

    I have run out of adjectives to use for all the ‘Wow’ places we have visited. The word ‘incredible’ just doesn’t cut it when describing this cathedral. Chris and I have seen many beautiful cathedrals but we both feel that this one is one of the most beautiful.

    Queen Isabella ordered the construction of the Cathedral of Granada in 1505, shortly after the capture of the city in 1492. The first stone of the Cathedral was laid in 1523 and its construction lasted 181 years. It was finished in 1704.

    We were given a code to use with our phones and we followed numbered posts, getting a self-guided tour this way and at our pace.

    It was an incredible place!

    Now onto the Royal Chapel.
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  • Isabella & Ferdinand’s Burial Chapel

    1 février 2024, Espagne ⋅ ☀️ 11 °C

    We were not allowed to take photos inside this chapel so I have posted some photos I found on the web.

    Next to the cathedral is the Royal burial chapel (Capilla Real built in 1517) that holds the tombs of Isabella I of Castile and Ferdinand II of Aragon, and of their daughter Joanna and her husband Philip. Both tombs are carved in marble and represent the figures of the monarchs on a large scale. The funerary monument is decorated with medallions, figures of saints, and angels.

    Under the tomb, there is a small crypt that can be accessed by stairs. We went down and saw the lead coffins of the four members of royalty and a sarcophagus holding their grandson who died as an infant, Miguel de la Paz.

    The Royal Chapel also houses an exhibition of the legacy of the Catholic Monarchs. In the Sacristy Museum we saw several paintings by Flemish artists that were part of the private collection of Queen Isabella, the ceremonial costumes of the monarchs including her crown and sceptre, and books and jewelry that they used in their daily lives.
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  • The view from our balcony right up to the fortress.
    The long hallway to the front door.LivingroomDining areaMaster bedroom with big closetsSecond bedroomBathroomKitchen with everything!Laundry and cleaning areaThis is not our photo but gives a picture of what the city looks like.Watching cyclists go byDinner tonght!

    And on to Antequera…

    1–16 févr. 2024, Espagne ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C

    It’s February 1st and we are almost halfway through our Andalusia trip and what a trip it has been so far. We are going to ‘rest’ for a bit by staying in one spot and do day trips for 2 weeks. Should be fun!

    Only a 1 hour drive away from Granada, through miles and miles of olive groves, and we are now out of the tourist milieu of Spain and into the old city of Antequera (5,000 years old!) where we will recharge our batteries (maybe) during a 2 week stay.

    Our first sighting of Antequera in the distance was that of a typical medieval town, with the spires and bell towers of several Gothic churches and the walls and towers of the great Moorish fortress high on a hill. Spread out in the valley below lie rich farmlands irrigated by the Guadalhorce River. For centuries this has been one of Andalucía's most fertile areas, and is currently a leading producer of asparagus, cereals and olives. In summer, we have read, its fields turn brilliant yellow with sunflowers.

    The town also is one of the richest archaeological areas in Andalucia, with Bronze Age and Roman ruins ranking among the most important in Spain. Then there is also El Torcal park, the flamingo-filled Pink Lagoon and three megalithic Dolmans. making it the perfect spot for us - both history and nature.

    We rented a good-sized, two bedroom apartment ($73/day) in the city, called the Vera Apartment. It is very typically Andalucian, in a white-washed building. It is set up for Spanish tourists more than it is for foreigners. The owners have provided us with everything and more - a bottle of red wine, chocolates, bread, oil, vinegar, salt, pepper, coffee, tea, sugar, soap and shampoo. Amazing. The configuration of the apartment is odd by the way we set things up at home but after being here for a day or two, we understand the reasoning behind its shape.

    The living room, dining area, 2 bedrooms and bathroom are on the sunny side of the building. A long corridor with a door joins this area to the back where the front entrance, kitchen and an indoor porch with a washing machine live. Summers are hot here (32C +) and many places don’t have air conditioning. Makes sense to have the kitchen and laundry away from the main living areas.

    Surprisingly, our TV has several English channels with some great shows. We watched Oceans Thirteen last night.

    We have pink bathroom fixtures and a bidet. The floors are cold tile floors so we are happy that we brought our slippers. The bedrooms have very cozy duvets as it gets cold once the sun sets. Every room at the front has a heater that we can and will use.

    From our balcony we can see and hear daily life as it happens, as well as a view of the fortress. Across the street is a school and a church that rings its bells hourly.

    The grocery store and market are a 5 minute walk away with a little park in between. The grocery store has been built to fit the space. It is on two levels with flat ramp-like escalator (for shopping carts) that goes to the second floor. The first floor has meats, fruits, vegetables and wine. The second floor has mainly packaged foods and a bakery.

    A real bonus is having free parking for the two weeks and a very short walk away, past a bakery with amazingly good-looking pastries.

    Today’s dinner will be a lovely-smelling, crispy and juicy roast chicken that Chris bought in a take out chicken place. Can hardly wait.

    We think we are going to have fun exploring this interesting town!
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  • Antequera’s Bullring or Plaza de Toros

    3 février 2024, Espagne ⋅ ☀️ 10 °C

    We went for a walk around town and came across Antequera’s bullring. It was built in 1848 but rebuilt in 1984. It is considered one of the most attractive bullrings in Spain.

    The main doors were open so we walked in and wondered about, admiring its architecture and trying to imagine what it had been like in its heyday. It has a seating capacity of 8,200 people.

    Only afterwards did we learn that there was a museum of bullfighting somewhere in the building. We’ll have to check that out later.

    Now it is used for large group events like concerts and rarely for bullfights. It is also used as a location to shoot advertisements and was used in the Madonna music video, ‘Take a Bow’.
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