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    🇲🇽 Coapan, Mexico

    Coapan

    8. februar, Mexico ⋅ ☁️ 27 °C

    Sometime, (we can’t remember when) someone (we can’t remember that either) recommended that we go to a tiny village north of Ahuacatlan and have a buffet brunch there. The restaurant is only open on the weekends and only for the morning. This is our last weekend here so we decided to go.

    We hopped on the bus to Jala, 7 km away, and then took a taxi, 6 km away, to the very small village of Coapan.

    Coapan is located at the foot of the huge volcano and the whole area is very picturesque. This is a prime agricultural area due to the volcanic nature of the soil. We passed greenhouse after greenhouse filled with sweet peppers that are sold to the U.SA. The largest cobs of corn in the world are grown here too.

    This two street village only has about 300 people living in it and they are either cow farmers, make cheese or work in the only restaurant in town, El Rincon del Campesino. That’s where we were headed.

    When we went, it was packed but of course they had room for two more. It’s Mexico.

    The restaurant seating is outdoors under a giant Tamarind tree.

    A young lady gave us a tour of all of the foods offered and explained the procedure. We were supposed to pick up a pottery plate and filled it with delicious traditional foods. We could go back for as much as we wanted.

    One area had all the foods, another all the interesting condiments and cheeses, a third area had cut fruit and a fourth table had fruit drinks and Cafe de Olla, a delicious coffee made with cinnamon and possibly sweetened with an unrefined sugar made from boiled sugarcane called piloncillo.

    All the food was cooked over wood fires and bbqs made out of lava rock. It is quite a place. The cheeses are made on site. Everyone was very kind and loved showing us what they were cooking. Even the guests explained what we were eating - the cactus paddles, the chiles, the traditional mixed dishes, etc.

    After a wonderful meal, they called a taxi for us (I think that there is only 1 in town) and while we waited, we were treated to a shot of tequila, lemon and salt. They make the tequila on site too.

    Next door, there was a tiny shop that had small items made of lava rock. Chris bought a pumice stone for his feet. Authentic!

    As usual in this area, we were the only outsiders but were made to feel very welcome. We are happy that we made the effort to go to Coapan. Maybe, just maybe, I will attempt a Mexican breakfast when we get home…if I can find cactus paddles, handmade tortillas, homemade salsa ingredients, and so on…
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  • Amatlan de Canas

    5. februar, Mexico ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    We were starting to get hungry but continued on to the Magic Town of Amatlan de Canas. This is where Javier went to high school. There weren’t any school buses so Javier had to board with a family while he went to school.

    Amatlan is an attractive and clean town in a valley surrounded by mountains. It is known for its rugged beauty, old churches, and chocolate workshops.

    We got out of the truck and walked through the park and around the town.
    The church built in 1750 with its lantern-shaped tower was impressive.

    Javier told us that a very tall man, Tomason, lived in this town. He was almost 2 m tall and was born in 1863-1924. There are lots of photos of this friendly and happy giant.

    Javier drove us to Los Tukanes restaurant that had quite a choice in food. Chris, Javier and I all had tasty shrimp dishes with rice and a salad. Javier had a dish that had an Aguachile sauce on it. Delicious!

    We thought that our day was done but no. Javier took us to the place where very hot mineral water (50-80C) comes out of the mountain. There is a spa close by with several pools of water of different temperatures.

    What an adventure we had. But it wasn’t over! We went back to Javier’s house where several members of his family were having a get together in honour of one of his sisters who had passed away 2 years ago. We were offered drinks, cornbread and a chocolate cake to take home with us. Everyone was so friendly and had lots of questions. One of Javier’s brothers has a tequila operation so we were given a bottle of his tequila.
    We left with a big bag of goodies!

    Now we had the windy road up and over the mountain to look forward to while the sun was going down. We made it home just in time before it got dark.

    So, we were pretty tired of all the new experiences as well as talking in Spanish but we had to go to a party that Javier was having for his employees!! It ended up being low key (thank heavens) with music and bbq meat for tacos.

    We had an amazing day and loved every minute of our time with this kind family.
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  • La Estancia de los Lopez

    5. februar, Mexico ⋅ ⛅ 29 °C

    Our next stop was at the small village of Estancia de los Lopez, the village where Javier grew up with his 11 brothers and sisters.

    He owns the house that his family grew up in so we were invited to see it. He has done some renovations but has kept the character of the original house. It was hard to imagine that two adults and 12 kids lived there.

    Javier took us around and showed us old photos of his family. We especially liked a clock that had each child’s photo in small frames around the clock. Javier was #6, right in the middle. He was one of three kids that actually finished elementary school and high school but he was the only one to go to university and he became a gynaecologist.

    We didn’t take any photos here. It was a short stop to drop off a wooden bed frame and meet a few of Javier’s family who still live in this .tiny town. Javier mentioned that it was a wonderful time in his life living in this town.

    La Estancia de Los Lopez means ‘the ranch of the Lopez family’. Javier took us to see the original hacienda. It looked like it has been made into several apartments.

    I read that this town has a peanut factory where the production of making a special peanut sauce and candies has been passed down for generations.
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  • El Manto

    5. februar, Mexico ⋅ ⛅ 30 °C

    We finally got to the tiny town of El Rosario where we turned right on a dirt road to El Manto. From the parking lot we had no idea what we were about to see.

    Javier paid the $15 Cdn entry fee for each of us and we entered a magical world. One hundred and forty four stairs carved into the natural rock sides of a canyon took us down to the river below. It was beautiful.

    El Manto is a crystal-clear, spring-fed river with a 7 m waterfall that has been gently adapted into a water park. The word ‘manto’ means aquifer or a cloak. I guess the waterfall resembled a cloak when it was named.

    We walked on a well-maintained path with lush vegetation on the sides of the gorge, to the waterfall. We had our bathing suits so were able to jump into the water at the base of the waterfall. The water was warm and crystal clear. It was a lovely experience.

    After our swim we joined Francisco and his dad and walked to the end of the park where there were several swimming pools and places for people to have a bbq and picnic. We were told that during Easter the place fills up with vacationing Mexicans. Being there in January was perfect as we were the ones there.

    I’m sure that our photos don’t do this lovely place justice …
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  • El Barranco del Oro

    5. februar, Mexico ⋅ ⛅ 29 °C

    Heading down from the Saint Death shrine, we passed through a few small towns. The people living there are pretty isolated.

    We stopped to walk around the central park in a quiet village called Barranca del Oro. This small village is nestled among the mountains. The scenery around the town was lovely - hills covered in vegetation, colourful houses and a beautifully kept little church.

    We had a nice chat with a woman vendor who said that there aren’t any young people there. There aren’t any jobs for them and the kids go to Puerto Vallarta or Punta Mita to work. At one time though this town had been a thriving gold and silver mining town.

    Javier bought a couple of Mexican flag candies for us made from coconut.

    At the edge of town, we stopped to get a drink of a traditional drink made from corn called Tejuino.

    Tejuino is a cold, sugary fermented drink made from corn dough, the same kind used for tortillas and tamales. The dough is mixed with water and piloncillo (brown sugar) and boiled until the liquid is very thick.

    When you buy it, they add ice, lime, a bit of salt and a bit of a hot salsa if you want, before mixing it up. Very thirst quenching and delicious!

    And on we went.
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  • A Day Trip with our Hotel Owner

    5. februar, Mexico ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    The owner of this hotel, asked us if we had ever been to a place called El Manto, close to another Magic Town called Amatlan. We had planned on taking a bus there but Javier suggested that we go with him in his Toyota Tacoma truck. What a bonus!

    So, at 10 a.m., Javier, his son, Francisco and Chris and I set off. Little did we know that we had to go up and over a mountain on an extremely windy road. Not great if you are the type of person to get car sick easily!

    We saw and did so much on this trip that I think it’s best if I do several short blogs with photos.

    Here is part 1…

    Reaching the top of the mountain, we stopped at a great mirador (view point) and a shrine dedicated to Santa Muerto (Saint Death). This saint, not recognized by the Catholic Church, is an "amoral saint" who grants miracles. She is associated with healing, protection, and safe delivery to the afterlife by her devotees and accepts offerings like tequila, cigarettes, or candy.

    Santa Muerte almost always appears as a female skeletal figure, clad in a long robe and holding one or more objects, usually a scythe and a globe - a little like the Grim Reaper.
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  • Temple of the Immaculate Conception

    4. februar, Mexico ⋅ ⛅ 29 °C

    Now story #2, because there is a 2nd church on the square with a little school next to it. It looks really old but it isn’t as old as the St. Francisco de Asisi church. I think it was built in 1871, after the 1870 eruption of the volcano.

    We asked if we could go inside to look around and it wasn’t a problem. A caretaker (actually the mop and broom lady) opened doors for us .

    The lady is the restaurant told me that it had been built by the women or largely by the women in town. They were upset after the big church was destroyed. The men were not interested in religious ceremonies or rebuilding the church but instead built themselves a Freemason temple on the other side of the river.

    The women held protests (haha no sex) and finally took matters into their own hands with the help of a priest. The church took 3 years to built and there is a tunnel going somewhere that we saw behind the altar.

    Now, this church is only used for catechism classes for kids and a few special events.
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  • The Old Church in Ahuacatlan

    3. februar, Mexico ⋅ ☀️ 28 °C

    There is a very old church in this town, Templo de San Francisco de Asís, that dates from the 17th century. We have been curious about it because part of it looks new while other parts are crumbling. There is very little written about it on the internet.

    While I was looking at an old photo of the church in a restaurant, a lady explained in Spanish the history of the church. I was confused by what she told me and figured that I just didn’t understand her Spanish. But today, a n interesting man who speaks very well in English told me the story of the church and I had totally understood the lady!

    The original temple was built by the Franciscans out of adobe but over the years, the temple broke down. The nearby river flooded and weakened the foundation, the nearby volcano erupted and the tremors destroyed the roof and walls. People couldn’t use it so it was abandoned.

    A new temple built by the Freemasons was built across the river. That temple no longer exists but a man who bought the property and was going to put a house on it, dug down and accidentally found a cemetery as well as the foundations of a church. Now that building is a hotel and it houses artifacts found on the site. The owner was thrilled to be able to tell us about their findings.

    After years of neglect and the partial collapse of the church roof on several occasions, the old church underwent major reconstruction between 1929 and 1935, during which the church was restored and re-roofed. And that’s the church we see today.

    On the top of the church there is a clock that was donated by President Álvaro Obregón in around 1924.
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  • A Relaxing Sunday

    1. februar, Mexico ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C

    This weekend is a long weekend for Mexicans celebrating Constitution Day.

    Last night, we walked around the park and then had a delicious sushi dinner. So many good restaurants here! It has been fun making plans for where and what we will eat.

    The owner of our hotel, Javier, and his son are going to a fiesta in a neighbouring town. Javier’s brother produces tequila and is having a big party. So for 2 days, we will be the only people here. He is leaving us in charge. lol.

    For the past 3 or 4 days, we have gone up the 500 stairs and on the way down we have collected plastic bottles and wrappers to clean up that beautiful place. Yesterday, we finished and it looks great. Tomorrow it will be another day but we will take a small bag for garbage up with us every time we go up.

    Today Chris had a ‘date’ with a man that we met on the stairs a couple of days ago. He has a house close to the stairs but works in the U.S. He wanted to show Chris some other nice trails.

    Chris enjoyed his hike and talking with Jose. I think they walked up and down in the cerro for 9 km. through farmers’ fields and even met a farmer who showed them his lime grove.

    I, on the other hand, went up the 500 stairs and it felt so much easier this time. Such good exercise followed by a swim afterwards.
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  • Every Day is a Treat

    30. januar, Mexico ⋅ ☁️ 29 °C

    We are so thankful that we can be here to enjoy what Mexico offers. We definitely do not take anything for granted.

    Now after two weeks of being here and feeling like we are fitting into life, we are starting to enjoy some of the daily routines that we are getting into.

    We get up early, between 5 and 6 a.m. and enjoy a coffee while reading the news and emails.

    Sometimes we have feathered visitors who feel they need to wake us up.

    Just after 7, while it is cool, we get dressed and head up into the hills (cerro). Actually up a set of 500 stairs (eacalinatas) to a wonderful mirador. Chris has two rocks to use as weights as he walks up. Lol. A very rewarding workout because of the beautiful views of the town, the volcano and surrounding hills and valleys at the top.

    We noticed that there are some people who go up with a drink or food and just throw their garbage on either side of the stairs so we decided that we would each take a bag with us and pick up one bag of garbage each every time we go up. Maybe others would see this and take up a bag too… it’s great because at the bottom of the stairs are two big bins that we can drop our bags into. Bending over to pick up stuff is good exercise too.

    This activity works up our appetite so we go somewhere for a late breakfast. Today we jumped on the local bus and went to Jala. There is a good little restaurant overlooking the square that we went to last week and were happy to return to.

    After eating, we went into the Casa de Cultura to visit the museum.
    It is situated in a historic mansion that was built in the 19th century.
    This small museum, 3 rooms, houses a collection of historical objects that tells the evolution of Jala since its native beginnings.

    There were archaeological pieces in cases and old photographs documenting the life of the town over the centuries.

    There also is a 7 headed giant parade serpent. In this area, there are legends about this horrible beast.

    We sat outside on one of many benches in the quiet and beautiful centre and just enjoyed our time there. Some kids walking by had pastries in trays so we bought a flan to share later.

    A couple showed us where the bus station was and we went back to Ahuacatlan. It’s only 7 km away - a $2.00 trip.

    Then a short nap, a swim in the swimming pool and reading in the sun. There is always a breeze here and no humidity so it is very pleasant sitting out on our patio. What a life we have here.

    The cleaning lady had cleaned our room (she would do it every day if we wanted). She also does our laundry whenever we want to have it done.

    Tonight we are going to a restaurant for their highly recommended ribs.

    Love this place. So grateful.
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  • Ixtlan del Rio

    27. januar, Mexico ⋅ ⛅ 27 °C

    Another short bus ride away took us to Ixtlan del Rio, (place where obsidian abounds) the home of an archaeological site, Los Toriles, that we visited 25 years ago on a trip to Sayulita. We have memories of it as we went with Pat and Gail and Chris Van Bridger (a fellow Culturlingua teacher in Zamora) on the Spring equinox and people were celebrating mystical rites on the old circular temples. Today we just went to the town to check it out.

    Ixtlan del Rio is the main commercial town in the area. There you can buy anything and everything. Vendors line the street with fruit, vegetables, food stalls and small crafts. It was a lot for us to take so we found a place to have a coffee, watch people and acclimatize.

    We walked abound the Central Park, saw the big church and went to the Casa de la Cultura where we had an energetic tour of the little museum. It has two rooms. One room has artifacts from the archaeological site and the other has old photos of the town.

    We noticed some people working in another room making paper mache hearts and flowers for Valentines Day. They love chatting in Spanish with us. I wanted to join them and learn how to make the hearts but… Maybe there will be a little workshop in Ahuacatlan.

    They asked where we were going to have lunch and recommended a place called La Casona. An artist, who painted a big mural in the museum, owned the restaurant and they said that it was like a museum. One guy offered to drive us there as it was several kilometers away. He gently insisted so we got a ride with him. People are so caring and kind here.

    At La Casona, we met the artist who showed us some of his art after we had a very filling lunch. What a nice experience. The restaurant called a taxi for us and the driver dropped us off at the bus station to catch the bus back to Ahuacatlan.
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  • 500 steps up to the Ahuacatlan Letters

    26. januar, Mexico ⋅ ☀️ 30 °C

    Today, at home there was a snow day. Apparently, so much snow fell that it broke a 180 day record for snowfall in Toronto. The airport cancelled all flights, schools were cancelled and parked cars were buried under the snow. Once again, we are happy that we are here.

    On our first day here, Chris just had to check out the trail up to the town’s sign that we can see from our hotel. But it’s not a trail. It’s 497 stairs going up to it. Each stair has a brick on the face of it showing which family donated money towards building the staircase. It is called Escaleritas.

    Those stairs were calling me so we both headed out early in the morning, passing the bullring and it’s iconic bull statue, then saw the entrance to the stairs and walked up. The views of the town and the volcano were beautiful. Walking up maybe a short-lived habit while we are here. Good exercise in fresh, clean air.

    Here’s someone’s video of the walk up.

    https://fb.watch/EUAMyQXCqS/?fs=e
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  • Jala, Home of Two (Three?) Giants

    24. januar, Mexico ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    We took the local bus to the nearby small Magic Town of Jala and its neighbour Jamulco. Jala is a pretty town with cobblestone streets, colonial-era homes, and a very interesting Basilica, which features a four-colored stone facade (green, yellow, pink, and brown). The houses are painted in vivid colours and many of the old colonial mansions have been fixed up and are presently hotels or restaurants.

    There are two giants here, possibly three…

    Giant #1 - Jala lies at the base of the Ceboruco Volcano, or the Black Giant.
    With an altitude of 2,280 meters above sea level, El Ceboruco is an active stratovolcano. Its last recorded eruption was in 1870. Indigenous and Spanish writers reported its violent activity in the 16th century, when its eruptions lit up the skies. We hiked to its craters a few days ago so I won’t go into any details about it.

    Giant #2 - Jala is known for producing the world’s longest ears of corn. The native Jala maize landrace thrives in the volcanic valley at the foot of the Ceboruco volcano.

    Under ideal conditions, a Jala corn plant can reach up to 5 meters tall, and its ears can grow between 35 and 60 cm long. Because of its size and specific needs this variety must be grown by hand and matures slowly. The volcanic soils in Jala provide nutrients and minerals that seem critical for its exceptional growth—a factor that makes reproducing this maize elsewhere extremely difficult.

    Every August, Jala holds a Corn Fair (Feria del Elote) where farmers compete to present the longest ears. This festival draws visitors and raises awareness about preserving this native variety.

    Giant #3 - Chris and I visited the tiny Ahuacatlan museum where there was a photo of a man carting a giant skull in a wheelbarrow. Apparently, the skull of a giant man was found near the volcano. I’m not sure what happened to it but the docent there said that giants lived in this area…
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  • A Hike to Los Arcos, an old Aqueduct

    22. januar, Mexico ⋅ ☁️ 25 °C

    We heard about an old aqueduct called Los Arcos that was located somewhere in the hills behind us. We went to look for it and a lady we met kindly took us to the entrance of the trail that was across from the cemetery.

    We walked up into the hills through agave and corn plantations and weren’t really sure where this historic aqueduct was. Our trails guide wasn’t super accurate.

    The aqueduct was built to provide a consistent, gravity-fed supply of fresh water for the people as well as for agricultural, and industrial needs during Ahuacatlan’s time as a significant colonial-era trade hub.

    Aqueducts were essential for bringing water from distant places in order to support the town's growth as a key stop on the Camino Real connecting Guadalajara with the port of San Blas.

    Finally we found the top of it spanning a ravine. We didn’t go down far enough to get a good photo of the arches as the path down looked a little dicey!
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  • Volcan El Ceboruco

    21. januar, Mexico ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

    Seven km away is an another small magic town called Jala. It lies at the foot of the big, active volcano, Ceboruco, The Black Giant. We read that we could take a taxi 17 km up the volcano and then do a 2+ hour hike, 6 km, to two craters. The taxi driver would take us up, wait for us and then bring us home. And that’s what we did.Læs mere

  • Hotel Quinta Valentina

    18. januar, Mexico ⋅ ⛅ 28 °C

    We found a gem of a hotel in Ahuacatlan. We booked it for a week but without a second thought, extended our stay here.

    This lovely hotel has beautifully manicured, park-like gardens with friendly wandering peacocks and harlequin chickens. From our balcony, we have wonderful views of the pool area, the cactus gardens and the big Ceboruco volcano. It is truly a Garden of Eden in little Ahuacatlan.

    The room is large and comfortable with a king-sized bed and a quiet air conditioner and fridge. The washroom is modern with lots of hot and cold water. We have a balcony that overlooks the gardens and has comfortable furniture and lights.

    The owner, Javier, is a retired gynaecologist who built this place as a retirement project. We have had some lovely conversations with him in Spanish about Ahuacatlan. His son Francisco takes care of the hotel and speaks quite well in English. The staff are quiet, friendly and very respectful. They even will do our laundry if needed.

    We couldn’t have found a nicer place to spend a few weeks.
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  • Ahuacatlan, Place of Avocados

    18. januar, Mexico ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

    We wanted to spend a few weeks inland where it would be cooler so we looked for an interesting place, not too far away but inland, to use as a home base,

    In our search, what came up and interested us, were three villages, close together, all Magic Towns - Ahuacatlan, Jala and Ixtlan del Rio.

    “Mexico's 177 Magic Towns (or Pueblos Mágicos) are villages awarded with this designation for their mystical and mythical character and for maintaining their original architecture, culture, folklore, and history intact.” Every one that we have been to, has been special.

    We figured that we could spend a week in each of the three villages, starting with Ahuacatlan, to check out what made them magic. What was great was that it was an easy 2 hour bus ride away from Chacala. A quick taxi ride took us to the hotel.

    We booked a week in a beautiful hotel with gardens and a pool in Ahuacatlan, the place of avocados. More about the hotel in the next blog.

    Little did we know that it didn’t take long to fall in love with this little town, the people and the hotel and staying longer became the new plan. By the way, Jala and Ixtlan del Rio are a very short local bus ride from where we are so there was no need to change hotels.

    From our hotel, we can see the town’s name up in the hills. People told us we could take a long set of stairs up to the sign. On the first day, Chris decided to go up on his own. A half an hour later, he phoned me to tell me to look up at the sign on the hill and check out if I could see him sitting on the L of Ahuacatlan. I could see him! So funny.
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  • The Beach Town of Chacala

    6. januar, Mexico ⋅ ☁️ 25 °C

    We have been to Chacala, a small fishing village north of Puerto Vallarta at least two other times and each time we have shared a two bedroom, two bathroom apartment with our travelling friends Pat and Gail.

    The two weeks that we stayed here this time was spent revisiting old haunts and seeing what had changed since we were last here. It has been pretty hot and humid so our day was pretty simple.

    Every morning when it was cool at 7 a.m,, Chris walked up the volcano sometimes with me and sometimes with a fellow he met called Garret, a retired judge. If I didn’t go up, I walked along the beach.

    We stop in at a beach palapa and have a glass of freshly squeezed orange juice and watch people strolling on the beach. Then we would head home for a late breakfast.

    We loved reading on the upstairs patio with the views of the lake.

    On occasion, we would go into the bigger town of Las Varas for money, lunch or just to wander around the town.

    For a few days, we went hunting for a house to rent for our kids and grandkids. They are coming on February 14 for a week. Luckily we found a place with three bedrooms, two bathrooms and a pool, directly across the street from PnG’s apartment! They will love it.
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  • Escaping the Winter

    5. januar, Mexico ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

    Once again, Chris and I decided that a trip back to Mexico would be a good thing to do. But the question is, “Where do we want to go. There are so many wonderful places to visit. Sometimes, we just look for the least expensive flight to a country and start from there. This time it is Puerto Vallarta.

    We got a one way ticket as we aren’t sure when we will return or from where. Our friends Pat and Gail will be in Chacala for 3 months and they have a 2 bedroom apartment that they are happy to share with us for a couple of weeks. From there, we will make decisions about where we will go.

    Our family would like to join us somewhere in Mexico for a week in February. Playa del Carmen was an idea but Puerto Vallarta won out.

    Luckily we were able to rent a new house for them in Chacala with three bedrooms, two bathrooms and a pool. Perfect for the 7 of them. We will stay with PnG for that week. Their house is right across the street from the apartment.

    After the kids come, we will head to Guadalajara to visit our cottage friends who are staying there for a few days and then possibly head to Ajijic to visit our Ontario friends, Janet and Andrea, for a couple of days.

    Then we have booked an apartment in the historic area of Puebla, a new city for us, for the month of March.

    We are still up in the air re our travels at this point but it will all come together.

    I do not plan on writing much but will include a few photos of each new place that we go to.
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    5. januar 2026