• Ladyandtramp
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Mexico Otra Vez

An open-ended adventure by Ladyandtramp Read more
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    🇲🇽 San Francisco Totimehuacán, Mexico

    Going Home Plans and La China Poblana

    March 26 in Mexico ⋅ ☀️ 9 °C

    Today is Thursday and on Monday we will be flying home.

    After a bit of research, I realized that even though the big Mexico City airport has flights to Toronto, we would have to take a 2 hour bus ride to the airport, the hours are not great for non stop flights and it is super expensive! We do not want to stop in the States either.

    So, we have decided to take a short Uber ride to the Puebla airport, catch the inexpensive 8:30 a.m. Viva plane to Guadalajara (1 1/2 hour), have lunch at the airport and then catch the nonstop Flair flight to Toronto (4 1/2 hours) at 12: 30 pm. Way better flight times and the cost is a lot less. Then the Red Car shuttle home.

    Now about the China Poblana …

    Everywhere we have travelled to in Mexico, we have seen ladies selling dolls dressed in a traditional costume. That same costume is also worn by folkloric dancers in performances. Well, there is a story about how those costumes came to be and it all started in the 17th Century.

    A young noble girl came to Acapulco, Mexico in the early seventeenth century (1620). She is believed to have been captured by South Seas pirates when she was nine. Evidence indicates that she was named Mirrha and came from India, through Spanish controlled ports in the Philippines.

    Mirrha (La China Poblana), is believed to have been bought by Miguel de Sosa to be a servant in his house in Puebla. He baptized the now eleven-year-old "Chinese girl" and gave her the Christian name Catarina de San Juan. After Sosa and his wife died, Catarina married Domingo Suárez, the Chinese servant of a local priest, adding to the legend that she was Chinese. After his death, she was taken in by a convent, where it is said she began to have visions of the Virgin Mary and Baby Jesus.

    Most accounts of her life agree that she was revered by the local folks in Puebla. Following the Mexican Revolution (1910), the state sought to unify the country by promoting indigenous and local traditions. The China Poblana became a key emblem of this new national identity, often with a charro (cowboy) to represent the stereotypical Mexican couple.

    She always wore her sari which evolved into the white blouse and colourful embroidered red and green skirt that is seen today. This outfit now often includes the national symbols of Mexico - an eagle clutching a snake, and a prickly pair cactus. A woman who wears the dress usually braids her hair on two sides, tied with red, white and green ribbons.

    The “China Poblana look,” as it came to be called, first captured the women of Puebla (Poblana means Puebla) and then jumped 80 miles northwest to become a hit in Mexico City. From there, the look spread through the rest of the country, By the end of the 17th century it had become the traditional dress of Mexico. And it still is.

    Catarina de San Juan (1609-1688) is believed buried at the Templo de la Compañia. Tours are conducted to see her tomb on Saturdays and Sundays. Puebla has a monument of her on a major street. The Museo Casa del Alfeñique exhibits China Poblana costumes and a local restaurant is named Las Chinas de Puebla. The house that she worked in is now a hotel, Hotel Boutique Casona de la China Poblana.
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  • Palacio de Gobierno (Government Palace)

    March 25 in Mexico ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C

    In front of the bustling Zócalo and close to the Cathedral, there is a beautiful stone building that is the Palacio de Gobierno (or Municipal Palace) where the Puebla City Council meet.

    We have walked past it almost every day and even saw a concert in its courtyard. We knew that we wanted to have a tour inside the building one day. Our neighbours, Steve and Jenny, said that they were going so we joined them for an English tour.

    The building is a beautiful architectural landmark, made in gray cantera stone and featuring an exquisite front. It was completed sometime from 1887 to 1906.

    Historically, the municipal authorities have been on this site since 1536. The very first municipal palace consisted of only three rooms and occupied just a quarter of the present space. In the early 17th century, a second floor was added.

    In 1714, the city mayor began construction of the second palace. In 1897, the need for another (third), modern council building emerged. The architect opted to keep parts of the structure, the heavy masonry and quarry walls and the third palace was inaugurated in November 1906.

    Our guide was very knowledgeable about the history of Puebla and could answer all of our questions clearly.

    He took us up the Italian cabrera granite stairs to the gorgeous Council Room that houses the original Royal Certificate signed by Isabel of Portugal and dated March 2, 1532, that granted the city the title of Puebla de Los Angeles. Puebla comes from Latin meaning “settlement”.

    Outside the Council Hall, there is a relief depicting the city along with the images of peace, labor and the arts. Below the relief is a stone plaque, previously attached to the outer wall of the second palace, commemorating the 1714 remodeling, and complete with the lintel and jambs from the first building.

    It’s a beautiful building and the tour guide was wonderful.
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  • The University’s National Bookfair

    March 25 in Mexico ⋅ ☀️ 8 °C

    Today is Tuesday. Next Monday, we leave Puebla to go home. Our next door neighbours here left to go back to Kalamazoo and our other neighbours are leaving next week too. But Puebla continues to rock on with numerous activities planned for April.

    The big event here now is the University’s book fair called FENALI (Feria Nacional del Libro de la Benemérita Universidad Autónoma de Puebla).

    It is an annual, major cultural event held in Puebla and in its 39th year. Hundreds of publishers, book presentations, musical performances, workshops, and artistic activities focusing on literature, culture and art are taking place from March 20 to 29 in the Carolina Building.

    It is surprisingly big with 148 national and international publishing houses taking part that cover a vast array of genres. There are over 400 activities planned including workshops for kids, book launches, musical performances and artistic activities exhibits.

    I badly needed a haircut so I walked into the centro and on the way back went into the Carolina Building to check it out. I don’t think I have ever seen as many books in one place as I saw there today. Amazing.
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  • A Busy Sunday

    March 22 in Mexico ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    Our friend, Andrea, who recommended Puebla to us a couple of years ago, mentioned that she used to love going to a library/restaurant called Profética, or prophetic. We decided to give it a try.

    Located in a beautifully restored 16th-century house in the historic center, it is known as "Casa de la Lectura" (House of Reading). It was founded in 2003 and serves as a vibrant cultural hub, offering:
    A public library with about 13,000 titles, especially in literature and the humanities.
    A specialized bookstore.
    A café and bar serving Mexican cuisine.
    Space for cultural events, book presentations, and workshops, making it a gathering point for literature and arts lovers.

    We can see why Andrea loved it. We loved eating our breakfast in the courtyard of the huge library that surrounded us. There were lots of little reading and cozy working niches in the library.

    After breakfast, we met up with Richard and Martha (our apartment neighbours) and went to the Casa de la Cultura to see the free Sunday orchestra and singers concert. We went early as seats are taken quickly! The traditional music was chosen to celebrate Puebla’s musical roots.
    At the end of the concert, people were invited to get up and dance and many people did just that. It was nice to see.

    Following the concert, we spent the afternoon in two museums. Museum entry is free on Sundays so we wanted to take advantage of this deal.

    The first building, Casa de los Hermanos Serdan, is the home where the Mexican Revolution began on November 18, 1910. Bullet holes remain on the outside wall of the house as well in the front living room. The exhibits on the second floor document the family's sacrifice against the Porfirio Díaz dictatorship.

    Touring the 26 rooms is a fascinating experience.

    There were at least ten rooms on the ground floor apartment that showed the daily life and furnishings of a family in 1910.

    The upper floors have about 16 themed rooms that gave us a better idea of the Porfiriato period, the anti-reelection movement, and the dramatic events of November 18 and 19, 1910 in Puebla, and thereafter in the entire country.

    Visiting the house, gave us a much better understanding of what life was like under Porfirio Diaz. Good for the rich and bad for the poor. It’s a complicated period in Mexico’s history.

    Then on to the Alfeñique House Museum that houses a collection of approximately fifteen hundred pieces in 16 exhibition halls that show the daily life of a wealthy family in the 18th and 19th Century. It also has a display of Pueblas famous blue and white Talavera ceramics.

    It has been called the Casa de Alfeñique since 1790 because of its richly decorated facade that seems to be made from sugarcane paste (like marzipan), egg white and almonds. Many Day of the Dead candy skulls are made from this paste and are called alfeñiques.

    Another great day!
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  • The Legend of Puebla’s Two Volcanoes

    March 21 in Mexico ⋅ ☀️ 9 °C

    There seems to be a legend around every corner here.

    Here’s a legend that has been passed down from generation to generation since the time of the Aztec Empire about the two volcanoes we can see from our rooftop…

    Popocatépetl is the name of the biggest volcano we can see. Its name comes from the Nahuatl verb “popoa” meaning “smoke” and the noun “tepetl”, meaning “hill”, so its name literally means “Smoking Hill”.

    Popocatépetl is an active volcano that is approximately 730,000 years old. It has a symmetrical conical shape and a maximum height of 5,450 meters above sea level, which makes it the second highest in Mexico.

    Iztaccíhuatl, the other volcano, gets its name from the Nahuatl words “iztac”, which means “white” and “cíahuatl” which is interpreted as “woman”, so its name translates as “White Woman”. Today it is better known as the “Sleeping Woman” due to its profile that resembles a woman lying down with her face towards the sky.

    Iztaccíhuatl is an extinct volcano and is the third highest mountain in the country with an altitude of 5,220 meters above sea level.

    The legend of Popocatépetl and Iztaccíhuatl is a story of love and pain that has been passed down from generation to generation since the 14th century. Legend has it that Popocatépetl was a Tlaxcalan warrior and Iztaccíhuatl was a princess of Tlaxcala. They fell in love and Iztaccíhuatl's father promised Popocatépetl that he could marry her if he won a war against the Aztecs.

    However, a warrior who hated Popocatépetl sent a false message to the emperor, informing him of his army's victory and Popocatépetl's death.

    Iztaccíhuatl refused to eat or leave the palace and died of sadness.
    When Popocatépetl returned from battle, he learned of Iztaccíhuatl's death and took her body to the mountains. There he built a funeral altar for her and stayed there watching over her until he died of grief. The gods, moved, turned them into mountains.

    It is said that Popocatépetl is the smoking mountain that still releases smoke from time to time to confirm that he watches over Iztaccíhuatl, who sleeps next to it.
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  • Aviary, Turned into a Themepark

    March 20 in Mexico ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

    Last week Chris and I walked to a nearby Ecological Park and noticed a big dome surrounded by water and water birds. We figured that it was an aviary but it was closed on the day that we were there. We said that we wanted to return as it looked like an interesting place.

    Until today, we didn’t realize that the aviary had closed and since 2017, it has been a small theme park called Arboterra. It cost us $10.00 each to enter at 11:15 a.m. and we had no clue what it was all about.

    But we were early, so we had a coffee in the cozy restaurant overlooking a pond with waterfowl. It was very pleasant.

    From what little I read about it, “it is an immersive natural, educational, and conservation-focused theme park located inside Puebla's Parque Ecológico. Designed as an "Arcane Tree" adventure, it offers interactive, story-driven tours aimed at families, highlighting birds, reptiles, and flora.”

    We were greeted by Angie, who was dressed in an explorer’s costume and acted as a storyteller. She told us in pretty good English that we could follow the path on our own and if we needed information, she would be there to help us out.

    We walked on bridges over the pond and got up surprisingly close to a flamboyance of pink flamingoes. lol. (We learned that word today.)

    We passed a waterfall and went in an underground cave to visit some underground creatures, like Mexico’s endangered salamander, the Axolotl, some snakes, moles, etc.

    When we came out, we entered the Aviary where there was a peacock with the most beautiful tale. No wonder the Aztecs decorated their headdresses with peacock feathers! Gorgeous.

    We were in a jungle and didn’t see many birds except for two Guacamayas,
    or macaws, and some doves. But what we saw was a huge fake tree with a hot air balloon caught in its branches. The tree, called an Arcane Tree, was massive and focussed on teaching kids about protecting nature.

    The next part of our ‘journey’ was to go up into the 13 m tree into a treehouse and finally into a huge birds nest at the top.

    We came down on the other side of the tree and there was info about roots and inside the tree, there was another information room. The whole experience was pretty awesome.

    Continuing on, we spotted a Pygmy owl and tortoises.

    Then, we went into a dark room that had an interactive surround sound screen and ‘boarded’ a jeep for a ride into a jungle with dinosaurs. The floor tilted and jerked as we avoided stegosauruses and pterodactyls. What a ride. Kids would love it for sure!

    Our two hours there was so much fun! We were happy that we came back.

    Tonight we are going to the free Symphony Orchestra at 7 pm. We look forward to Friday nights in Puebla.
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  • Cuexcomate-the World’s Smallest Volcano?

    March 19 in Mexico ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

    This morning Chris and I and our apartment neighbours, Martha and Richard from Kalamazoo, took Didi (like Uber) to an interesting park in the Zaragoza neighbourhood in Puebla - Parque Cuexcomate. A school borders the park on one side and a community market is on the other side.

    Cuexcomate comes from Nahuatl, meaning "a large clay pot to store grain".

    In the park, there is a mound of volcanic rock with a crater that is in the shape of a small volcano. But it is not a volcano crater, it is an empty cone of an extinct geyser. The cone is 13 meters high and 23 meters in diameter. The central crater inside the cone is up to 8 meters wide and 17 meters deep (4 meters below ground level).

    Geologists speculate that Cuexcomate was created after an eruption of Popocatepetl, causing the circulation of magma in the area, around the year 1064. However, several investigations affirm that the formation could be more than six thousand years old.

    Cuexcomate Geyser is a unique natural wonder located in the city of Puebla, Mexico and we were able to go down a spiral metal staircase to the bottom of it. Below it was cool and there was a little waterfall and an underground stream. It is our first time in a geyser!

    We heard stories that the natives used this cave as a cool storage area for grains. And that the bodies of captives or people that committed suicide were disposed of in the crater. Who knows? I recently read that a quartet will be performing there with candles all around. Not sure where the audience will sit…

    After this visit, we walked around the neighbourhood and into the market where we ate tasty quesadillas on homemade blue tortillas filled with Oaxaca cheese, onions,mushrooms, squash flowers and jalapeños. Martha especially loved every bite of her quesadilla.

    A tiny parade of preschoolers in costumes and their mothers and teachers marched by us in celebration of Spring. It was very cute to see them.

    As Martha said, “It was a very nice day with a great site to visit, great food, great weather and great friends. What else can we ask for…”
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  • Casa de los Munecos University Museum

    March 18 in Mexico ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

    We went to a little family restaurant, Cocina de la Buen Sazon, that is down the street from us for breakfast. Our neighbours were there too as the food is always delicious, plentiful and inexpensive there. We always take home a doggie bag of fruit, pastries and buns. We can’t possibly eat everything that we are served! With a coffees, we paid $15 altogether and that included a tip. (Chris had Huevos Mexicanos and I had Huevos Albanil with beans)

    Today was the day that we were told to pick up our new transition lenses for our glasses. We placed bets that they wouldn’t be in but off we went to pick them up. And lo and behold, they were in! Caesar Julio popped them into our glasses frames, checked them out and they are great! One third of the cost of the same lenses at home… and a whole bag of gifts - 2 coffee mugs, lense cleaners, bottled water.

    The main goal of the day was to visit the Casa de los Munecos near the Centro. It was built in the second half of the 18th century and belonged to Don Agustín de Ovando y Villavicencio, a councilor in 1773 and the chief constable or mayor of the city in 1791 and 1792.

    This building has one of the most beautiful facades in Puebla, with plaster reliefs, balconies with wrought iron railings, and several doors and windows with arches. However, what makes it unique are the 16 tile panels representing characters popularly known as los munecos or "the dolls." These figures depict semi-naked men and women in dancing poses, accompanied by pitchers, animals, or musical instruments.

    The Museum is a cultural center that houses a valuable artistic and scientific collection depicting Puebla’s history. Its collection includes antique devices, furniture, photographs, musical instruments, plasterwork, engravings, watercolors, and an impressive collection of 200 colonial paintings and 17th-century oil paintings. Among its most striking pieces are a perfectly preserved mummy brought from Atlixco, mammoth bones, and even a shrunken head. You could spend hours in this building.

    Around the corner from the Casa, we were ushered in to see the inside of La Casa de los Cañones or the House of Canons that is 400 years old. It is now a university library.

    This house dates from the 17th century, has had more than 15 owners and has been a convent, hotel, theater, warehouse and even factory. a historic 17th-century baroque building located in the city center. It was formerly the Mangino family residence and later a luxurious hotel (1915), noted for its cannon-shaped gargoyles (water spouts), colonial history, and rumored paranormal, ghostly activity. Haha. It also has one of the first electric elevators installed in the city during the early 20th century.

    It was past lunchtime so we looked for a small restaurant and found one in front of El Parian (handicrafts market) and had some delicious pozole. There was so much soup that we took half of it home for tomorrow’s dinner or lunch.

    The owners replaced our hard living room sofa bed couch with a super comfortable one while we were away. What a bonus! Good day all around.
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  • Ecopark

    March 17 in Mexico ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    A week ago, Chris went for a walk to quickly scope out a large Eco Park that is located about 1.6 km away from our apartment. His initial photos looked intriguing so we went for a long walk to further check out the park. It was great!

    Before it was an ecological reserve, it was a military airfield that not only serviced military flights, but was also used as a racetrack due to its oval shape

    In the past, the military airfield was on the outskirts of the city, but as the city grew and for safety reasons, it was decided that the land, 150 acres, should be used for another use. The idea of having an eco park was born that would include an aviary, a lake, botanical gardens and an open theatre as well as spaces for culture, education, sports and recreation.

    While we were there, the 3.2 km bike and walking/running trails in the park were being used by a lot of people, young and old. In the park, groups of people were playing volleyball, tennis, paddleball, soccer or exercising on outdoor exercise stations. Other people were sitting under trees reading, contemplating life or sleeping. It was nice.

    We saw and heard lots of birds especially near the lake. The aviary was closed today but we want to return to visit it.

    At one end of the park was a coffee shop, so we stopped for a bit and ordered a coffee. Life is good in a beautiful park with a good coffee.
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  • Coffee Produced in Mexico

    March 17 in Mexico ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    We saw this on a serviette in a coffee shop…It says…

    Did you know that coffee…

    - fills you with energy
    - diminishes the risk of developing cancer
    - reduces the risk of suffering from Parkinson’s
    - improves asthma and allergies
    - reduces the risk of developing diabetes
    - reduces the risk of developing Alzheimer’s
    - diminishes depression
    - wakes up the feeling of alertness, concentration and memory in the short term
    - reduces head aches
    - avoids blood clotting
    - is a potent antioxidant
    - is a diuretic
    - is an excellent fountain of potassium, magnesium and fluoride
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  • El Paseo de Los Gigantes Park

    March 15 in Mexico ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

    The Paseo de Gigantes, (walk/alley of the giants) is located right next to the former La Constancia textile factory and admission is free.

    It is an outdoor park in two sections that houses more than fifty 1:1000 scale replicas of different architectural wonders of the world, from the Cathedral of Puebla to the Great Wall of China, Eiffel Tower, Sydney Opera House, Statue of Liberty, etc.

    Each little building had accompanying music playing of traditional music from the country the building was in. Yankee Doodle was playing at the White House.

    We really enjoyed our walk as we recognized and checked out each model.
    And… we did feel like giants…
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  • Puppet Museum

    March 15 in Mexico ⋅ ☁️ 25 °C

    I was so hoping that we could catch a puppet show while we were here but the puppeteers are having a break from performing during the month of March. It was too bad, but we found out that there is a puppet museum in the disused Constancia textile factory that now is a cultural space housing a group of museums. One of them is Casa del Títere, the House of Puppets, a collection of hundreds of dolls and marionettes from Mexico's most famous puppeteers.

    The puppet museum displays 630 hand puppets from the Bellas Artes Golden Era collection, and more than 800 marionettes from the Rosete Aranda Collection. Rosete Aranda was Mexico's most renowned family of puppeteers, who gained such acclaim in the 19th century they were invited by President Benito Juárez to perform at the Presidential Palace. Their puppets are now the most sought after among collectors.

    The museum is on two floors of an old warehouse. The bottom floor has a variety of puppets from all over the world - string, hand, shadow, rod, etc.

    The upper floor of the puppet museum is divided into scenes, which represent different eras of the history of Mexico. There are scenes of circus puppets, puppets from children's tales, and historical figures. There's a wedding, skeletons dancing, a bullfight, a baroque carriage, and the famous 1940s actress Maria Victoria, singing with her orchestra.

    Underneath each of the showcases there are videos of the puppets' past performances.

    We thoroughly enjoyed our Sunday free visit to this museum and took lots and lots of photos. Only a handful could be put here!
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  • La Constancia Museum Complex

    March 15 in Mexico ⋅ ☁️ 26 °C

    La Constancia Mexicana is a historic textile factory complex in Puebla, originally established on January 7, 1835. It was the nation's first mechanized cotton spinning and weaving mill.

    The factory was built inside an old mill estate called Santo Domingo Hacienda that ground wheat into flour. The buildings of the hacienda were updated to take on the style of the 1800s which gave the factory a very unique and special look.

    Located along the Atoyac River, the factory harnessed water power from the river to drive its machinery and it operated continuously until its closure on September 11, 1991.

    After closing, the facility was preserved as a historical site and converted into a complex of museums that honours its industrial legacy.

    We took a half hour ride with Uber or Didi to get to this museum complex as it was on the outskirts of the city.

    So what museums are there? I believe that there are seven altogether but we visited the five below.

    1. Museo Textil (Textile Museum) that displays historic machinery, including 19th-century English looms and exhibits illustrating the history of textile production in the region.

    2. Museo Infantil (Children's Museum) that is an interactive space focusing on science, technology, and natural phenomena.

    3. Museo de la Música Mexicana (History of Mexican Music Museum) that traces the evolution of music in Mexico from pre Hispanic times to the classical Mexican musical traditions during the viceroyalty to the present day.

    4. Casa del Titere (House of Puppets) that has displays of the historical development of puppets in the world and in Mexico

    5. El Paseo de Los Gigantes (Walk of the Giants) that is a collection of 50 miniature famous architectural wonders.

    6. Museo de Automovil that features Volkswagens. We didn’t have time to visit that one

    The next footprints will go into more detail about two of the museums - the Puppet Museum and the walk of the Giants.

    Another great free museum day!
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  • Benito Juarez Holiday Weekend Mar. 14-16

    March 14 in Mexico ⋅ ☁️ 23 °C

    This weekend is a long weekend for Mexicans. Benito Juárez Day is on Monday, March 16, in Puebla and throughout Mexico. This public holiday celebrates the birth of the former president (March 21) and is observed on the third Monday of March. Banks, schools, and government offices are closed.

    On Saturday, the only thing planned was a Classical Guitar concert at 3 pm in the Casa de la Cultura. We had a great breakfast at El Buen Sazon, a local restaurant, and then walked into the Centro.

    It’s a holiday weekend and the Centro was full of markets and was already rocking, early in the morning! We went through the flea market again. Then a handmade market, then a women’s market, then a children’s handicraft market and more. The streets were full of music, vendors, bands, umbrellas and tents!

    We got a little respite when we went into an art museum, Edificio Carolina, that will be hosting a huge weeklong book fair starting next week. This major event features numerous publishing houses, book presentations, and cultural activities. We are looking forward to checking this out next week.

    Men were setting up the courtyard in the building for the fair but we were able to wander through the rooms looking at some disturbing water colour paintings…

    We went back into the organized mayhem in the Centro for a bit and then went to El Comal for a late lunch. Super busy there too but a nice break. Then on to our guitar and violin concert and …

    An exposition set up around the courtyard recognizing the role that women in Puebla have in mescal production.

    P.S. March 13th is also the volcano’s birthday. Locals spend 5 hours climbing the volcano to offer gifts, songs, and food to the volcano, often to appease it during high activity.
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  • Friday at the Market and Chamber Music

    March 13 in Mexico ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    Mercado del Carmen is a historic market built on former 19th-century church cemetery grounds founded by the Carmelite friars in 1844, which was closed in 1880, demolished in the 1890s, and later redeveloped.

    This market is the closest fruit, vegetable and meat market to our apartment so we go there for basic fresh foods and the occasional breakfasts. Martha, our apartment neighbour came with us.

    The market is highly regarded for the long-standing family businesses, and
    famous for 37-year-old traditional cemita stalls. Cemitas are huge sandwiches on sesame seed buns and filled with pork or chicken milanesa,
    poblano peppers, Oaxaca cheese, avocado, onion slices and chipotle.

    We bought one just to try it out. Way too big for us!

    At night we walked into the historic centre to once again hear the free-on-Fridays concert in the Museo San Pedro del Arte. The concert was focused on Chamber Music so the first half featured woodwinds and the second spectacular half featured an amazing brass band. Each of the players was amazingly talented and the conductor was a joy to watch. One of the pieces was for two Piccolo trumpets and what a joy to listen to. The last piece warranted the long standing ovation it got.

    Several of our apartment neighbours went too and our next door neighbour saved us great seats near the front. We’ll be back next Friday for sure!
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  • Three Museums in One Day. Oh My!

    March 11 in Mexico ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    Puebla is known for having some of the best food in Mexico. Being a UNESCO World Heritage Site, it’s also known for its many Baroque churches and beautiful colonial architecture.

    But what some people may not know, is that Puebla is home to over two dozen museums, most of which are located in the heart of its Historic Center. We could visit one a day for 3-4 weeks!

    Every building in the Historic Center of Puebla is gorgeous. Many tourists, like ourselves, walk by these buildings without realizing there’s a museum inside. And what’s great to find out that on certain days, museums have free entry. So far, we have only paid one entry fee for a museum that cost us $3.50 each and that entry fee included a great guide who spoke very good English and answered all of our questions. What a deal!

    Jim, an apartment neighbour, recommended that we visit two museums outside of the Historic Centre - the free Army and Air Force Museum and the big Train Museum. We figured that we would do one today and the other on another day.

    So we started our day by walking to the Army and Air Force Museum. This two-story free museum has 15 rooms with exhibits recounting significant moments in Mexico’s military history. There are lots of guns, ammunition, uniforms, and miniature battle reenactments scenes.

    It also had an exhibit giving credit to women and children who helped out.

    Exiting the museum, we walked toward the Historic Centre and noticed another museum Fundación José Luis Bello y Zetina y Museo. This is the one that we paid for.

    It is an interesting house museum in the heart of downtown Puebla. It features one of the largest private collections of American, European, and Asian art pieces in Puebla, some of which are almost 2,000 years old. The house itself was beautiful.

    The building that houses the Museum began construction in the seventeenth century. At that time it consisted of two levels and the spaces were distributed around two successive courtyards. As time went on, a third level was added.

    My favourite room used to be a living room. Members of the Puebla bourgeoisie wanted to imitate the customs of the European aristocracy, so this main room became a music room. Music played an important role during the meetings of the bourgeois society and this room is decorated with figures linked to music as well as a collection of musical instruments.

    At one end of the room was a magnificent baroque tubular organ built in 1720 with ayacahuite woods, red cedar, pine, oyamel, oak and flutes of lead and tin alloy. Two people would pump the bellows while a third person play the organ.

    Another musical instrument in the room was a piano with vertical bass strings called a Euphonicón. Apparently, this old instrument is the best preserved in the world.

    What we saw in this amazing house was definitely worth the entrance fee!

    Now we were staying to get hungry and knew that if we ate at La Mendruga, we could enter their museum for free. So we had lunch there.

    Museo Casa del Mendrugo Museo Casa del Mendrugo is a fascinating museum located on the second floor of the Casa del Mendrugo restaurant. It features beautiful examples of Talavera pottery and many intricately carved human skulls, bones, and seashells.

    This historical building once functioned as an educational institution and Federal Treasury building. Rescued from total abandonment in 2010, a number of important archaeological artifacts were uncovered during its restoration, including a grave with human remains dating back 3,500 years.

    The first section of the museum shows photos of and explains the history and reconstruction of the building as well as the grave and other interesting artifacts.

    The second part of the museum focuses on Zapotec funeral rites from Oaxaca. All the exhibits have well-written English descriptions so was easy to understand what we were looking at.

    It was such an interesting and varied day for us. Even though we have visited several museums, we still have lots more to see!
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  • Pueblas’s Tunnels

    March 10 in Mexico ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

    There was a legend that said that under the city of Puebla, there was a network of tunnels connecting churches with ancient buildings, and they were also used as escape routes by Mexican revolutionaries during the war.

    In 2015, a system of tunnels that extend more than 10 km and believed to be 500 years, old was found under the city. The tunnels are high enough in some areas (3m) that a person can easily ride through on horseback.

    These tunnels begin in the historic center of Puebla and end at the Loreto fort, where the Cinco de Mayo battle happened. Researchers consider these tunnels may have been used by soldiers during the battle of Mexican liberation, though they also could have been used by clergy or also common folk.

    Various old and antique items including toys, marbles, kitchen accessories, guns, gunpowder and bullets, were found trapped in the mud. Most of these items and weaponry were from the mid-19th century, about the time of the Battle of Puebla dispute between Mexico and France.

    We walked 2 km straight up Calle 2 Sur to one entrance of a main tunnel called the Pasaje Historico 5 de Mayo that tourists can enter. Today being a Tuesday, entry was free.

    There were very few people in the tunnels - one small tour group and a couple. We walked about 500 meters and looked at the displays showing items that had been found when the workers cleaned out the tunnels.

    We ended up at the top of the hill where the Loreto Fort is located. Today is not a free day, lol, so we didn’t go into the fort. We can do that on a Sunday.

    After the 1910 Mexican Revolution, the tunnels were forgotten but they lived on thanks to grandparents’ stories of the past.

    On the way home, we stopped and had an Italian pizza at the Arugula restaurant. Great pizza and fast service. Lots of different pizzas to choose from!
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  • Lucha Libre

    March 9 in Mexico ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C

    This morning, we went to the Carmen market to load up with fruit and vegetables. We also decided to have breakfast there. Chris had a huge omelet and I had a wonderful chicken soup called Chulada de Pollo. This soup is a tasty soup made by boiling chicken (breasts or pieces) with garlic, onion, tomatoes, zucchini, carrot, chayote and corn. It is seasoned with oregano and cilantro, served hot with lemon, avocado and tortillas. It was so good that I asked for a double portion of it for takeout. Dinner tomorrow.

    About a block away from our apartment, there is a Lucha Libre arena. We read the following promo re the fight on Monday and thought it that it would be a fun night out:

    “Experience the excitement and folklore of Mexican wrestling at its finest with a visit to the iconic Arena Puebla. This venue, known as the "cathedral of wrestling in Puebla," is the stage for epic matches filled with adrenaline, acrobatics, and the unparalleled energy of the crowd. You’ll witness a unique tradition, where masked heroes and villains face off in a spectacle that combines sport and theatricality. The magic begins here, as you will see mask shops, enjoy street snacks, and then enter the thrilling world of lucha libre.”

    We bought $35 ringside tickets on Ticketmaster and walked over with another couple who have an apartment in our building at 7 pm.

    The street was full of vendors selling Lucha Libre merchandise. We were early but able to walk into the arena and watch the people coming in. Our seats were next to a family with a 3 year old and a 1 year old. The show was for all ages.

    Vendors walked by us selling beer and pop, wedges of cucumbers with salt and lemon, shrimp in huge baskets, chips and candies and giant sandwiches. The whole place had already started to get ready for the show by making a lot of noise.

    Actually, I’m sure the place was built to create noise. The upper seats had metal balconies that people banged. The seats weren’t totally fastened to the floor so moving the seats was noisy,. The wooden floor under the seats was hollow so you could make a lot of noise by stomping. All the noise adds to the excitement of seeing masked and caped wrestlers enter the arena.

    The audience was made up of people of all ages - some wearing masks, others wearing Lucha Libre tshirts and others with signs they had made. There were a lot of women in the crowd, young and old, hero-worshipping their favourite wrestler. As the room filled up, the noise level rose too and the wrestling hadn’t even started. It made us laugh. In fact, we had smiles on our faces for the next 2 1/2 hours!

    At 8 pm, the announcer came in and started the show. He was followed by a referee walking in, in time to loud music. Then the real fun began.

    The first fighter entered dramatically, leaped into the ring and stood on the ropes around the ring posturing. So funny. And everyone cheered. Then #2 came in with his sparkly cape and had his own way of entering the ring. The fighters are super athletic and strong. More noise from the crowd. It was obvious that this was a show of good vs evil. And who knows who will win.

    Anyways, every match was different and super entertaining. I read “Lucha libre is considered dangerous due to high-octane aerial maneuvers, close-contact grappling, and, in "hardcore" styles, the use of weapons like chairs, glass, and fire. While heavily choreographed, the risk of real, severe injury—including concussions, fractures, dislocations, and, in rare cases, paralysis or death—is high.” And we believe it! These men were stunt men extraordinaire. Amazing to watch and super entertaining.

    We walked home, 1 short block, with sore ears and big smiles along with the hundreds of people who had witnessed this fun Monday night event.
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  • Museums are Free on Sundays! Protests!

    March 8 in Mexico ⋅ ☁️ 23 °C

    So, we planned our Sunday with visiting a few downtown museums. Little did we know that today is International Women’s Day and the Mexican women take this day seriously. Protests and marches were planned for the whole day.

    In the morning, two thousand women took to the streets of Puebla (March 8) to demand an end to gender violence and justice for victims. With slogans, posters and a sea of purple handkerchiefs, the demonstrators denounced the persistence of femicides, forced disappearances and vicarious violence, problems that continue to mark the lives of thousands of women in the state. It was noisy and loud!

    A 2 page pamphlet was handed out to people, like us, who didn’t know what was going on. It explained the reasons for the march and demonstrations.

    We walked to the Centro where every street had large groups of police with shields. There was also an organ grinder with a stuffed monkey and people carrying large bunches of colourful balloons.

    The water in the central fountain was coloured purple for the demonstrations. We avoided the marchers but were still able to see what was going on.

    We looked for a restaurant that sold Cafe de Olla and a lady recommended that we go to the next street, turn right and go down one block to Tomy’s Antojitos, on the corner. What a great recommendation for authentic Mexican food and coffee!

    In the afternoon, we returned to the Centro and there was a second group of protesters, accompanied by their friends, mothers, sisters, daughters or partners. Some also marched with their parents or male relatives who decided to join the mobilization. Dressed in purple clothes, with handkerchiefs or with painted faces, the attendees remembered that International Women's Day is not a celebration, but a day of protest and memory.

    We left the Centro and went to two free museums - the Capilla del Arte (contemporary art) and the big Amparo museum (a collection of more than 1,700 pieces of pre-Hispanic art and more than 1,300 works of art from the Viceroyalty and from the 19th and 20th centuries).

    We ended our day eating a smoked salmon sandwich on Amparo’s rooftop with a great view of the surrounding historical area.
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  • Alley of the Frogs

    March 7 in Mexico ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

    The Alley of the Frogs (Callejon de los Sapos) is a popular street and square in the historic center of Puebla city and a fun place for collectors and art lovers. It is where there are many stores housed in historic buildings. Most of these stores sell antiques ranging from furniture to books.

    Along with the antique shops, the street has outdoor entertainment on weekends. Musicians play open-air on Saturdays and Sundays while vendors sell handicrafts from outdoor booths. There are also several restaurants and cantinas for those who prefer drinking and dining.

    The name of the street is believed to have come from the colonial period of Puebla. The story is that the alley was often flooded with stagnant water. It attracted a large number of toads, which caused locals to refer to it as Toad Alley.

    The buildings are designed with traditional colonial architecture and painted in bright blues, pinks, and yellows. There is a fountain in the middle of the square with a toad sculpture on it.

    The Alley of the Frogs was built in 1849. Actually a bullring was originally in the plaza until it was demolished in 1867. Bullfighting gave way to shops and a weekend flea market that still exists today.

    We had fun looking through the paintings, statuettes, postcards, collectible coins, and old records. It reminded us of the show, American Pickers. Lol.

    There was another market with handicrafts that we also visited. They were also selling chapulines, grasshoppers in English. They are edible, toasted grasshoppers that are a popular, protein-rich snack, delicacy, or taco filling in Mexico.
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  • Uber and Museo San Pedro de los Artes

    March 6 in Mexico ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    Today is a Friday and we thought that it would be nice to walk in the opposite direction from the historic centre to a mall with a big grocery store for a few odds and ends, like scissors. Then we would take an UBER or Didi back home. We have never used Uber but it was easy and inexpensive - $1.63 Cdn to go 1.6 km.

    The people living in this Casona are all really nice and long-term travellers. They have been to lots of the same places that we have been to so we have things in common to talk about and also share information about restaurants and events going on in the city.

    Today, Jim, a retired Lebanese chemical engineer, gave us a couple,of good tips. He suggested that we go to hear the Puebla symphony orchestra in a museum called San Pedro de Los Artes. It is a premier cultural center housed in a historic 16th-century (1542) former hospital.

    This museum is more than a thousand square meters in size and is divided into 5 exhibition halls, one of them is a permanent exhibition of sacred works of art that the State Government is protecting. In addition you can visit the apothecary of the old hospital, which was in operation for more than 350 years. We will save visiting the museum for another day.

    Tonight, will will go to hear the orchestra. It performs every Friday at 7 pm. and is free. Today’s concert is dedicated to the International Women’s Day celebration.

    The auditorium is beautiful and the venue was full of music lovers. The program featured a female conductor and music written by female composers. One composer was in the audience. We were fortunate to be sitting in an area where we could see the conductor. She was amazing to watch.

    “Conductor ALONDRA DE LA PARRA has gained widespread attention for her spellbinding and vibrant performances making her one of the most compelling conductors of her generation. She holds the distinction of being the first woman from Mexico to conduct in New York City, and holds the title of Cultural Ambassador for Mexican Tourism.”

    After the concert, I was somewhat angry knowing how much we, in Ontario, have to pay to see a concert in Ontario. In Mexico, artists are supported and on a regular basis everyone, from any walk of life, can experience high quality fine arts for free.
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  • The Amazing Rosario Chapel

    March 5 in Mexico ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    Built in the 17th century, this golden temple has amazed its visitors so much that since its earliest days it has been called the "eighth wonder of the world."

    We found the Rosario chapel inside the Church of Santo Domingo. It was built in the New Spanish Baroque style. Its purpose was to honor the Virgin Mary as well as to teach the locals the practice of the rosary, of which the Dominicans (the order in charge of the temple), were passionate promoters.

    Built between 1650 and 1690, the Rosary Chapel mixes the traditional Catholic symbols with those of the region. The chapel is covered in gold leaf so the whole place shines.

    The chapel features on its walls six paintings telling the biblical story of Jesus from his birth. Under the paintings there are the blue and white ceramic tiles known as Talaveras de Puebla. They form a gigantic rosary, with each of the 60 beads being represented as an angel's head. Right under the dome there is an altar made in marble but covered in gold.

    The Rosary Chapel is located in a place where gold was scarce. Surprisingly, its 23-carat gold leaf has remained attached to the decorations for more than 300 years. We heard a guide say that It is partially due to the composition of the glue used - a mixture of aloe, honey, bull's blood and egg whites.

    A magical place!

    Following our full morning, we went for some comfort food at Vittorio’s Restaurant - delicious pasta.
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  • Puebla City Bus Tour

    March 5 in Mexico ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

    Thinking that taking a hop on hop off tour bus would give us a good overview of the city, we went into the centre where the tour buses come and go. It was suggested that we take the Green Bus as they provided headphones and we could listen to the commentary in English. Good plan.

    We went into the nearby tourist office and bought tickets for 100 pesos ($7.50 Cdn) each for our 1 1/2 hour tour on board a double-decker bus. At 10:30 a.m., we were the only people on board the bus!

    The bus had a retractile ceiling and we sat in the top in the front seats. The audio guide was really good and explained the history and legends of Puebla clearly.

    We passed by the Zocalo, Cathedral, Los Sapos Alley, Analco neighborhood, Convention Center, and the Loreto and Guadalupe forts. These forts are located at the top of a hill with great views of the city. We could have stayed up there to visit the forts and catch the next bus but we decided we will save that visit for another day.

    We continued on past the flat area where the Cinco de Mayo battle was fought, saw the Cable Car, the Parian flea market, the Artist neighborhood, a Candy Street and the Revolution museum.

    The tour was well worth the 100 peso cost and now we have a good feeling about places to visit. There is a lot to see here!

    We had heard about a beautiful golden chapel in a Dominican church near the Centro so after the bus tour we went on a hunt to find it.
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  • Buying Glasses in Puebla

    March 4 in Mexico ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C

    Today was a low key day but we did accomplish one big thing. We ordered new Transitions eye glasses here. -no eye appointment, way cheaper, free eye exam and will be ready in 2 weeks.

    Before we came to Mexico, we had our eyes tested in Fergus and were given new prescriptions for glasses. We didn’t have time to get them before we left so we decided to get them after we got home. I put the prescriptions in with our passports, just in case our glasses broke or we lost them.

    Yesterday Chris bought a pair of sunglasses in a glasses store and we found out we could buy good transition lenses here for less than half the price of lenses at home and no tax!!

    We showed up at Optica Jeshua the next morning and they were happy to see us again. They did a thorough eye exam and compared our prescriptions with what they came up with. They were practically the same as the prescriptions we brought with us.

    It was a new experience doing the eye exam in Spanish but all went well with a few laughs along the way.

    We ordered them and they will be ready in 2 weeks.

    Lunch was on the second floor of a restaurant called El Comal, directly across from the Cathedral. They serve traditional Pueblo food. We shared a plate of three different cemitas and had delicious cafe de ollas.

    Cemitas are sandwiches from Puebla that are on a crunchy sesame seed egg bun that is typically filled with breaded meat (milanesa), chicken, steak or pork as well as Oaxaca cheese, avocado, and herb-like pápalo ( like arugula).
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