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Mexico Otra Vez
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Mexico Otra Vez

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    🇲🇽 San Francisco Totimehuacán, Mexico
    LadyandtrampMexico Otra VezLadyandtramp

    Buying Glasses in Puebla

    4 marzo, Messico ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C

    Today was a low key day but we did accomplish one big thing. We ordered new Transitions eye glasses here. -no eye appointment, way cheaper, free eye exam and will be ready in 2 weeks.

    Before we came to Mexico, we had our eyes tested in Fergus and were given new prescriptions for glasses. We didn’t have time to get them before we left so we decided to get them after we got home. I put the prescriptions in with our passports, just in case our glasses broke or we lost them.

    Yesterday Chris bought a pair of sunglasses in a glasses store and we found out we could buy good transition lenses here for less than half the price of lenses at home and no tax!!

    We showed up at Optica Jeshua the next morning and they were happy to see us again. They did a thorough eye exam and compared our prescriptions with what they came up with. They were practically the same as the prescriptions we brought with us.

    It was a new experience doing the eye exam in Spanish but all went well with a few laughs along the way.

    We ordered them and they will be ready in 2 weeks.

    Lunch was on the second floor of a restaurant called El Comal, directly across from the Cathedral. They serve traditional Pueblo food. We shared a plate of three different cemitas and had delicious cafe de ollas.

    Cemitas are sandwiches from Puebla that are on a crunchy sesame seed egg bun that is typically filled with breaded meat (milanesa), chicken, steak or pork as well as Oaxaca cheese, avocado, and herb-like pápalo ( like arugula).    Leggi altro

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  • LadyandtrampMexico Otra VezLadyandtramp
    Carved entrance doorway
    The bottom shelves were placed on benches that ran along 2 sides of the room.At one time the library was a chapel.

    Puebla’s Palafoxiana Library

    3 marzo, Messico ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

    Across the street from Puebla’s cathedral and located on the second floor of the Casa de Cultura, there is an amazing library called the Biblioteca Palafoxiana.

    It currently houses a collection of over 45,000 books and manuscripts published between the 15th and 20th centuries. It’s a breathtakingly beautiful baroque library that feels very much like a time capsule right in the heart of Puebla.

     It was the first library in the Americas to allow access to anyone who could read, not just clergy, fulfilling the Bishop's desire to make knowledge accessible.

    The books, magazine and pamphlets are written in several languages, including Spanish, Latin, Greek, Hebrew, French, and indigenous languages like Náhuatl and Mixtec.

    We were surprised to see the extent of what the books covered - everything worth studying at that time, including classical and indigenous languages, philosophy, theology, canon law, geography, astronomy, natural science, medicine, mathematics and physics.

    We asked a guide to take us around to explain what we were seeing.

    In 1981, the Library was declared a National Historic Landmark and earned recognition as a “Memory of the World” site from UNESCO in 2005.    Leggi altro

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  • LadyandtrampMexico Otra VezLadyandtramp
    Organ pipesCarved doorOne of the angels on the fence

    Puebla’s Cathedral

    3 marzo, Messico ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

    Puebla's baroque-style cathedral is one of the largest in Mexico. It takes up a city block and is located in the centre of the historic area. On weekends a half hour laser show is projected on the face of the church, similar to the show on Guadalajara’s cathedral, starting at 7:30 pm.

    In 1531, a decade after the Hernan Cortes conquest of the Aztecs, the Dominican bishop of the local diocese wanted to build a cathedral. In a dream, a flock of angels showed him a great spot for it and he set out to build his cathedral there. In fact her built a whole new city there too.

    Legend says that the angels not only brought holy inspiration to the project, but the latest surveying techniques as well. It's said they used string lines to lay out a grid of streets accented by parks and fountains on all the surrounding blocks where the cathedral would be built.

    But as things turned out, it took quite awhile, 44 years in fact, to wade through the red tape to get the green light to build the cathedral.

    The actual construction took quite awhile, too. Finally, much of the cathedral's interior was completed and its two 200-foot-high towers were ready to welcome the masses.

    One problem remained though. How would they get an 18,000-pound bell up to the top of one of the towers (the other tower is bell-less).

    Sure enough, the angels showed up again and raised the bell.
    As a way of saying thanks to their angelic helpers, the city was named Puebla de los Angeles ("City of the Angels"). In tribute to the angels, the Cathedral is surrounded by a wrought-iron fence featuring 58 bronze angel statues, each with raised arms.

    The cathedral is huge. Rumour says, that the building engineers did a switch and used the original plans for the Mexico city cathedral to build Puebla’s cathedral and vice versa.

    There are three organs in the cathedral but the two old ones are no longer in service since they stopped working at the end of the 19th century. They were never sent to be restored as the clergy wanted to preserve them as artistic relics or decorative jewels. The largest organ or International organ has a total of 3376 pipes or musical sounds. The largest tube measures 12 m and the smallest 1 cm and it is played on big occasions such as weddings, graduations, concerts, etc.

    The cathedral is like a museum full of wonderful art pieces - paintings, sculptures, woodworking, etc. So much to see!    Leggi altro

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  • LadyandtrampMexico Otra VezLadyandtramp
    View from our rooftop
    RooftopEntrance to Casona 212Our kitchen

    Puebla and Casona 212

    1 marzo, Messico ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

    Puebla is also known as Puebla de los Ángeles, a charming colonial city southeast of Mexico City. Its name comes from a legend that angels once helped design the city layout—hence the heavenly reference.

    Puebla is famous for its traditional crafts, flavorful cuisine, and stunning architecture. It’s also surrounded by some of Mexico’s tallest volcanoes. We can see these from our rooftop mirador.

    Andrea, a lovely lady that we became friends with in Ajijic, used to own a house in Puebla and she only had good things to say about it. After doing a little research we learned that the following places are well worth seeing in the historic centre:

    1. Plaza Zócalo and Puebla Cathedral: The city’s main square is a must when exploring tourist attractions in Puebla, especially for its grand cathedral and relaxed vibe.

    2. Palafoxiana Library: Right on the Zócalo, this historic library is one of the oldest in the Americas and worth a visit for its incredible woodwork and peaceful atmosphere. Free on Tuesdays. Closed Mondays.

    3. Barrio del Artista: This creative neighborhood is full of galleries, workshops, and indie boutiques. A great thing to do in Puebla if you love local art.

    4. Callejón de los Sapos: One of the prettiest streets in town, lined with colorful buildings and antique shops. A real highlight among places to visit in Puebla.

    5. Mercado de Artesanías El Parián: The go-to spot for handmade souvenirs. You’ll find everything from Talavera pottery to embroidered textiles.

    6. Museo Amparo: A top-notch museum that covers Mexican history and culture. Don’t miss the rooftop terrace! Entry is 85 MXN, and it’s free on Sundays. Closed Mondays.

    The minimalist apartment we are in is in a perfect location for exploring the city.

    There are 10 small apartments, each with everything that we may need in an old renovated colonial mansion. Where possible, the owners tried to keep the character of this 1800’s building.

    We have a small kitchen with a stove, fridge, toaster, blender, microwave and any dishes or cutlery that we may need.

    In the bathroom there is hot water and lots of pressure in the shower. Towels, soap and toilet paper are provided.

    In the living area we have a table and 4 comfy chairs, a desk and chair, big Smart TV and uncomfortable sofa bed. Lol.

    The bedroom has a comfortable mattress, full length mirror and wardrobe.
    Everything is minimalist but very functional.

    Once a week, the apartment is cleaned and items (paper towels, soap, towels, water, etc) replaced. There is a laundry room that is free for us to use. 24/7 security. High speed internet.

    On the rooftop, there are tables and chairs and a great view of the volcanoes and the city.

    Thanks Andrea for the great recommendation!    Leggi altro

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  • LadyandtrampMexico Otra VezLadyandtramp
    Janet's kitty sweatshirtJanet's mosaic in her kitchenTerry and Chris doing a jigsaw puzzleNew Mexican blouse.Janet's the model for a sparkly capeGardens at ChatterleysJanet's cactus gardenEve and his wonderful tshirtGoodbye to Janet, Terry and HeatherThe flight to Puebla

    Ajijic

    26 febbraio, Messico ⋅ ☀️ 29 °C

    As soon as we knew that the kids were home safe and sound we travelled onwards to Guadalajara. We had planned to spend a few days with our cottage friends, Karen and Rob who are in Guadalajara, but that plan sadly didn’t work out.

    Guadalajara and its airport had been affected by the cartels also. There were lots of burned vehicles and OXXO stores and the airport had also been locked down.

    Our bus trip from Las Varas was pretty good but we passed lots of soldiers and workers trying to clear several big damaged vehicles from the highway. Surprisingly, innocent people were not hurt during the cartel rampage. Around 70 soldiers and cartel members were killed in the shootout in Tapalpa.

    We were doing okay but then the bus stopped. One tire was completely shredded! Another bus came along and took us to the Zapopan bus terminal where we caught a taxi to Lake Chapala.

    The driver was great and one hour later we were saying hi to Janet, her brother, Terry, and his wife, Heather in lovely Ajijic.

    We were really hungry so we all went for Italian food at Janet’s favourite restaurant. We had lots to catch up on since Janet’s husband’s Celebration of Life last July. She seems to be doing much better.

    The next day was spent in Chapala. We went to Chatterley’s restaurant for lunch. It is located on a quiet street in an old hotel where D.H. Lawrence lived for a time. The setting, in a lovely garden, is beautiful. I believe that he wrote The Plumed Serpent there.

    On Sunday, we had lunch in one of our favourite restaurants, Yves. We met Yve who was recovering from a horrible fall down the stairs when he tripped over his dog. He had a big gash on his head and after several months in the hospital and close to death is starting to come around.

    It was a short and sweet visit that brought back lots of pleasant memories. We have visited Ajijic numerous times over 26 years. Actually my dad drove our family to Ajijic when I was 7 years old.

    A taxi took us to the Guadalajara airport and we flew to Puebla. It was an easy flight - 1 1/2 hours and we were there. In a big city!    Leggi altro

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  • LadyandtrampMexico Otra VezLadyandtramp

    Cartel Trouble

    22 febbraio, Messico ⋅ ☀️ 27 °C

    “Canadians have been told to shelter in place in Puerto Vallarta, Mexico, and flights have been cancelled after cartel violence erupted throughout the region following the death of drug lord Nemesio Oseguera Cervantes, known as ‘El Mencho,’ the leader of the Jalisco New Generation Cartel.”

    Just before the kids were picked up at 8 a.m., they got a message that their flight was delayed but it was decided that they would go to the airport (1 1/2 hour drive) and wait for their flight there. We said our goodbyes and of course felt a little sad that they had gone. It had been a great week.

    A couple of hours later, we read a Facebook posting that told us that the airport was locked down and what had happened in Tapalpa. We texted the kids and yes, it was all true and their flight had been cancelled. Armed guards surrounded the airport, not allowing passengers inside to leave.

    Cars and buses were burning and blocking roads, smoke filled the air and it was mayhem in Puerto Vallarta.

    The next 24 hours were worrisome for all of us. Caitlin phoned us and told us that they had heard gunshots and people rushed to hide, in a panic. They were okay but it had been extremely frightening for everyone.

    All the restaurants and food kiosks closed and there was no food or drinks available. No one knew what was going on and the airlines didn’t pass on any information.

    It ended up that they all had to try to sleep in the very cold airport, Sunday night. In the morning, they still didn’t know what was happening. They booked a close by hotel (Splash Hotel) in hopes that they could get to it when the public transportation (cars, taxis, uber, buses) was allowed to run again. They got a rebooking message from Flair for March 3, 9 days after the original flight home!

    Later on Monday morning, things opened up and they were able to take a taxi to their hotel. Thank heavens, it had pools and slides and lots for the kids to do. Their parents were worried about booking return flights but the kids had fun. The prices of one way flights were triple what they had paid for the original return flight.

    Anyways, to make a long story shorter, after 2 more nights, Amy got up from sleeping to get a drink of water and checked for flights again. Surprisingly, Flair had a ‘recovery flight’ home, the next day (Wednesday) at 6:45 pm. Both families quickly booked their tickets for home and were able to enjoy a little more time in the pools and sun. What a roller coaster of emotions everyone had!

    They were in Toronto by midnight and Red Car got them home by 2 a.m.
    Such a relief!

    The rest of their week was a write off but after a few days of rest, they were back in the groove. It was a harrowing experience for everyone!    Leggi altro

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  • LadyandtrampMexico Otra VezLadyandtramp
    At the volcano's rimComing down from the calderaThe trail up to the caldera

    Back in Chacala With the Kids

    14–22 feb, Messico ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

    What a wonderful week we all had! The family was exhausted when they came and rejuvenated when they left Chacala until … they got to the airport…

    Their days started out with either a walk up to the rim of the volcano or a walk on the beach or a swim in the pool. This was followed by breakfast, swims in the ocean, reading, eating, playing cards and relaxing around the pool. The house that we rented was perfect for a relaxing vacation for three generations, close to the ocean.

    On Sunday, we picked up a loaned guitar for Caitlin, Matt and the kids to practice/play on. That was a good idea.

    We loved seeing our family having the time to do what they loved to do - Tim taking photos of birds and beautiful scenery with his new camera, Key making new beaded earrings, Amy reading on the lounge chair and Matt playing the guitar. Audrey, Cal and Nathan loved being in the water all day, wrinkled fingers and all. Nice relaxing days under blue skies and in the sun.

    On Tuesday, we all celebrated Chris’ birthday by going out for a delicious breakfast and cafe de olla at the Lalaxtli restaurant at the foot of our street.
    We have known the owners since they opened a tiny bakery on another street, 6 or 7 years ago.

    Wednesday was a do what you want day. Mostly in the ocean! Tim had found a great spot to buy wood-fired grilled meat with rice, onions and salsas. So every day, he bought a ton of freshly cooked meat (chicken, steak, ribs) that we supplemented with vegetables. No need to cook at the house.

    On Thursday morning, all 9 of us jumped on a big banana boat and were dragged around the bay for 1/2 hour. It’s something that Nathan wanted to do for his birthday.

    Friday, February 20 was Nathan’s 9th birthday so we arranged for an early morning whale watching tour with Jaime. After awhile, we found a couple of humpback whales doing their thing. As always, it was a treat to watch them as they surfaced and spurt water into the air. Later, we went out to have a birthday hamburger dinner at Surfer Boys restaurant. Hamburgers are Nathans favourite food.

    Saturday was an active day. Everyone went up the volcano together except for Nathan and me. We did a photography tour together. I gave him my phone and he took some great photos of pelicans and vultures, cats, Rocky the dog and a marine police boat. Of course, this was all followed by lots of good food, swimming and packing.

    On Sunday at 8 a.m., Domingo sent a driver to pick up the kids to take them back to the airport. It had been a great week and we were sad to see them go.

    What happened next, was not to be expected…    Leggi altro

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  • LadyandtrampMexico Otra VezLadyandtramp

    Ahuacatlan - Odds and Ends Photos

    13 febbraio, Messico ⋅ ☀️ 28 °C

    Our time in lovely Ahuacatlan is winding down. We leave to go back to Chacala on Friday February 13 and the kids come on Valentines Day.

    Our host, Javier, treated us to a last night of tequila shots and we shared thoughts we had of life. In the morning he took us out for breakfast and drove us to the bus station. What a wonderful relationship we have developed with this kind family. We wish them success in their future dreams.

    The photos that we have included here are simply odd photos that didn’t belong in any of the blogs.    Leggi altro

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  • LadyandtrampMexico Otra VezLadyandtramp
    Cafe de Olla, Horchata, JamaicaCondiments - dried chiles, marjoram, sea salt, onion, mint leaves, salsas, cheeses, vegetablesSwishing away any flies from tortilla fillingsCooking facilitiesPancakes and tortillasCooking steak on a lava bbqChicharon and cheese gorditas1MmmnTree covered patioCorn light fixtureTequila shot at end of mealPumice articles for sale

    Coapan

    8 febbraio, Messico ⋅ ☁️ 27 °C

    Sometime, (we can’t remember when) someone (we can’t remember that either) recommended that we go to a tiny village north of Ahuacatlan and have a buffet brunch there. The restaurant is only open on the weekends and only for the morning. This is our last weekend here so we decided to go.

    We hopped on the bus to Jala, 7 km away, and then took a taxi, 6 km away, to the very small village of Coapan.

    Coapan is located at the foot of the huge volcano and the whole area is very picturesque. This is a prime agricultural area due to the volcanic nature of the soil. We passed greenhouse after greenhouse filled with sweet peppers that are sold to the U.SA. The largest cobs of corn in the world are grown here too.

    This two street village only has about 300 people living in it and they are either cow farmers, make cheese or work in the only restaurant in town, El Rincon del Campesino. That’s where we were headed.

    When we went, it was packed but of course they had room for two more. It’s Mexico.

    The restaurant seating is outdoors under a giant Tamarind tree.

    A young lady gave us a tour of all of the foods offered and explained the procedure. We were supposed to pick up a pottery plate and filled it with delicious traditional foods. We could go back for as much as we wanted.

    One area had all the foods, another all the interesting condiments and cheeses, a third area had cut fruit and a fourth table had fruit drinks and Cafe de Olla, a delicious coffee made with cinnamon and possibly sweetened with an unrefined sugar made from boiled sugarcane called piloncillo.

    All the food was cooked over wood fires and bbqs made out of lava rock. It is quite a place. The cheeses are made on site. Everyone was very kind and loved showing us what they were cooking. Even the guests explained what we were eating - the cactus paddles, the chiles, the traditional mixed dishes, etc.

    After a wonderful meal, they called a taxi for us (I think that there is only 1 in town) and while we waited, we were treated to a shot of tequila, lemon and salt. They make the tequila on site too.

    Next door, there was a tiny shop that had small items made of lava rock. Chris bought a pumice stone for his feet. Authentic!

    As usual in this area, we were the only outsiders but were made to feel very welcome. We are happy that we made the effort to go to Coapan. Maybe, just maybe, I will attempt a Mexican breakfast when we get home…if I can find cactus paddles, handmade tortillas, homemade salsa ingredients, and so on…    Leggi altro

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  • LadyandtrampMexico Otra VezLadyandtramp
    In the mayor's officeThe restaurantThe hot river coming down from the hills

    Amatlan de Canas

    5 febbraio, Messico ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    We were starting to get hungry but continued on to the Magic Town of Amatlan de Canas. This is where Javier went to high school. There weren’t any school buses so Javier had to board with a family while he went to school.

    Amatlan is an attractive and clean town in a valley surrounded by mountains. It is known for its rugged beauty, old churches, and chocolate workshops.

    We got out of the truck and walked through the park and around the town.
    The church built in 1750 with its lantern-shaped tower was impressive.

    Javier told us that a very tall man, Tomason, lived in this town. He was almost 2 m tall and was born in 1863-1924. There are lots of photos of this friendly and happy giant.

    Javier drove us to Los Tukanes restaurant that had quite a choice in food. Chris, Javier and I all had tasty shrimp dishes with rice and a salad. Javier had a dish that had an Aguachile sauce on it. Delicious!

    We thought that our day was done but no. Javier took us to the place where very hot mineral water (50-80C) comes out of the mountain. There is a spa close by with several pools of water of different temperatures.

    What an adventure we had. But it wasn’t over! We went back to Javier’s house where several members of his family were having a get together in honour of one of his sisters who had passed away 2 years ago. We were offered drinks, cornbread and a chocolate cake to take home with us. Everyone was so friendly and had lots of questions. One of Javier’s brothers has a tequila operation so we were given a bottle of his tequila.
    We left with a big bag of goodies!

    Now we had the windy road up and over the mountain to look forward to while the sun was going down. We made it home just in time before it got dark.

    So, we were pretty tired of all the new experiences as well as talking in Spanish but we had to go to a party that Javier was having for his employees!! It ended up being low key (thank heavens) with music and bbq meat for tacos.

    We had an amazing day and loved every minute of our time with this kind family.    Leggi altro

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  • LadyandtrampMexico Otra VezLadyandtramp

    La Estancia de los Lopez

    5 febbraio, Messico ⋅ ⛅ 29 °C

    Our next stop was at the small village of Estancia de los Lopez, the village where Javier grew up with his 11 brothers and sisters.

    He owns the house that his family grew up in so we were invited to see it. He has done some renovations but has kept the character of the original house. It was hard to imagine that two adults and 12 kids lived there.

    Javier took us around and showed us old photos of his family. We especially liked a clock that had each child’s photo in small frames around the clock. Javier was #6, right in the middle. He was one of three kids that actually finished elementary school and high school but he was the only one to go to university and he became a gynaecologist.

    We didn’t take any photos here. It was a short stop to drop off a wooden bed frame and meet a few of Javier’s family who still live in this .tiny town. Javier mentioned that it was a wonderful time in his life living in this town.

    La Estancia de Los Lopez means ‘the ranch of the Lopez family’. Javier took us to see the original hacienda. It looked like it has been made into several apartments.

    I read that this town has a peanut factory where the production of making a special peanut sauce and candies has been passed down for generations.    Leggi altro

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  • LadyandtrampMexico Otra VezLadyandtramp

    El Manto

    5 febbraio, Messico ⋅ ⛅ 30 °C

    We finally got to the tiny town of El Rosario where we turned right on a dirt road to El Manto. From the parking lot we had no idea what we were about to see.

    Javier paid the $15 Cdn entry fee for each of us and we entered a magical world. One hundred and forty four stairs carved into the natural rock sides of a canyon took us down to the river below. It was beautiful.

    El Manto is a crystal-clear, spring-fed river with a 7 m waterfall that has been gently adapted into a water park. The word ‘manto’ means aquifer or a cloak. I guess the waterfall resembled a cloak when it was named.

    We walked on a well-maintained path with lush vegetation on the sides of the gorge, to the waterfall. We had our bathing suits so were able to jump into the water at the base of the waterfall. The water was warm and crystal clear. It was a lovely experience.

    After our swim we joined Francisco and his dad and walked to the end of the park where there were several swimming pools and places for people to have a bbq and picnic. We were told that during Easter the place fills up with vacationing Mexicans. Being there in January was perfect as we were the ones there.

    I’m sure that our photos don’t do this lovely place justice …    Leggi altro

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  • LadyandtrampMexico Otra VezLadyandtramp

    El Barranco del Oro

    5 febbraio, Messico ⋅ ⛅ 29 °C

    Heading down from the Saint Death shrine, we passed through a few small towns. The people living there are pretty isolated.

    We stopped to walk around the central park in a quiet village called Barranca del Oro. This small village is nestled among the mountains. The scenery around the town was lovely - hills covered in vegetation, colourful houses and a beautifully kept little church.

    We had a nice chat with a woman vendor who said that there aren’t any young people there. There aren’t any jobs for them and the kids go to Puerto Vallarta or Punta Mita to work. At one time though this town had been a thriving gold and silver mining town.

    Javier bought a couple of Mexican flag candies for us made from coconut.

    At the edge of town, we stopped to get a drink of a traditional drink made from corn called Tejuino.

    Tejuino is a cold, sugary fermented drink made from corn dough, the same kind used for tortillas and tamales. The dough is mixed with water and piloncillo (brown sugar) and boiled until the liquid is very thick.

    When you buy it, they add ice, lime, a bit of salt and a bit of a hot salsa if you want, before mixing it up. Very thirst quenching and delicious!

    And on we went.    Leggi altro

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  • LadyandtrampMexico Otra VezLadyandtramp
    The shrine
    The viewThere she is the Saint of DeathSanta MuerteOfferingsFrancisco, Javier. Connie. ChrisThe former photo was taken by this young lady!

    A Day Trip with our Hotel Owner

    5 febbraio, Messico ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    The owner of this hotel, asked us if we had ever been to a place called El Manto, close to another Magic Town called Amatlan. We had planned on taking a bus there but Javier suggested that we go with him in his Toyota Tacoma truck. What a bonus!

    So, at 10 a.m., Javier, his son, Francisco and Chris and I set off. Little did we know that we had to go up and over a mountain on an extremely windy road. Not great if you are the type of person to get car sick easily!

    We saw and did so much on this trip that I think it’s best if I do several short blogs with photos.

    Here is part 1…

    Reaching the top of the mountain, we stopped at a great mirador (view point) and a shrine dedicated to Santa Muerto (Saint Death). This saint, not recognized by the Catholic Church, is an "amoral saint" who grants miracles. She is associated with healing, protection, and safe delivery to the afterlife by her devotees and accepts offerings like tequila, cigarettes, or candy.

    Santa Muerte almost always appears as a female skeletal figure, clad in a long robe and holding one or more objects, usually a scythe and a globe - a little like the Grim Reaper.    Leggi altro

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  • LadyandtrampMexico Otra VezLadyandtramp

    Temple of the Immaculate Conception

    4 febbraio, Messico ⋅ ⛅ 29 °C

    Now story #2, because there is a 2nd church on the square with a little school next to it. It looks really old but it isn’t as old as the St. Francisco de Asisi church. I think it was built in 1871, after the 1870 eruption of the volcano.

    We asked if we could go inside to look around and it wasn’t a problem. A caretaker (actually the mop and broom lady) opened doors for us .

    The lady is the restaurant told me that it had been built by the women or largely by the women in town. They were upset after the big church was destroyed. The men were not interested in religious ceremonies or rebuilding the church but instead built themselves a Freemason temple on the other side of the river.

    The women held protests (haha no sex) and finally took matters into their own hands with the help of a priest. The church took 3 years to built and there is a tunnel going somewhere that we saw behind the altar.

    Now, this church is only used for catechism classes for kids and a few special events.    Leggi altro

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  • LadyandtrampMexico Otra VezLadyandtramp
    Part of the destroyed part of the church. Looks like a painting!
    From the church garden. See the clock.The interior of the church1890 after the volcano erupted. Roof caved in.

    The Old Church in Ahuacatlan

    3 febbraio, Messico ⋅ ☀️ 28 °C

    There is a very old church in this town, Templo de San Francisco de Asís, that dates from the 17th century. We have been curious about it because part of it looks new while other parts are crumbling. There is very little written about it on the internet.

     While I was looking at an old photo of the church in a restaurant, a lady explained in Spanish the history of the church. I was confused by what she told me and figured that I just didn’t understand her Spanish. But today, a n interesting man who speaks very well in English told me the story of the church and I had totally understood the lady!

    The original temple was built by the Franciscans out of adobe but over the years, the temple broke down. The nearby river flooded and weakened the foundation, the nearby volcano erupted and the tremors destroyed the roof and walls. People couldn’t use it so it was abandoned.

    A new temple built by the Freemasons was built across the river. That temple no longer exists but a man who bought the property and was going to put a house on it, dug down and accidentally found a cemetery as well as the foundations of a church. Now that building is a hotel and it houses artifacts found on the site. The owner was thrilled to be able to tell us about their findings.

    After years of neglect and the partial collapse of the church roof on several occasions, the old church underwent major reconstruction between 1929 and 1935, during which the church was restored and re-roofed. And that’s the church we see today.

    On the top of the church there is a clock that was donated by President Álvaro Obregón in around 1924.    Leggi altro

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  • LadyandtrampMexico Otra VezLadyandtramp
    1

    A Relaxing Sunday

    1 febbraio, Messico ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C

    This weekend is a long weekend for Mexicans celebrating Constitution Day.

    Last night, we walked around the park and then had a delicious sushi dinner. So many good restaurants here! It has been fun making plans for where and what we will eat.

    The owner of our hotel, Javier, and his son are going to a fiesta in a neighbouring town. Javier’s brother produces tequila and is having a big party. So for 2 days, we will be the only people here. He is leaving us in charge. lol.

    For the past 3 or 4 days, we have gone up the 500 stairs and on the way down we have collected plastic bottles and wrappers to clean up that beautiful place. Yesterday, we finished and it looks great. Tomorrow it will be another day but we will take a small bag for garbage up with us every time we go up.

    Today Chris had a ‘date’ with a man that we met on the stairs a couple of days ago. He has a house close to the stairs but works in the U.S. He wanted to show Chris some other nice trails.

    Chris enjoyed his hike and talking with Jose. I think they walked up and down in the cerro for 9 km. through farmers’ fields and even met a farmer who showed them his lime grove.

    I, on the other hand, went up the 500 stairs and it felt so much easier this time. Such good exercise followed by a swim afterwards.    Leggi altro

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  • LadyandtrampMexico Otra VezLadyandtramp
    Chris' weights (rocks)

    Every Day is a Treat

    30 gennaio, Messico ⋅ ☁️ 29 °C

    We are so thankful that we can be here to enjoy what Mexico offers. We definitely do not take anything for granted.

    Now after two weeks of being here and feeling like we are fitting into life, we are starting to enjoy some of the daily routines that we are getting into.

    We get up early, between 5 and 6 a.m. and enjoy a coffee while reading the news and emails.

    Sometimes we have feathered visitors who feel they need to wake us up.

    Just after 7, while it is cool, we get dressed and head up into the hills (cerro). Actually up a set of 500 stairs (eacalinatas) to a wonderful mirador. Chris has two rocks to use as weights as he walks up. Lol. A very rewarding workout because of the beautiful views of the town, the volcano and surrounding hills and valleys at the top.

    We noticed that there are some people who go up with a drink or food and just throw their garbage on either side of the stairs so we decided that we would each take a bag with us and pick up one bag of garbage each every time we go up. Maybe others would see this and take up a bag too… it’s great because at the bottom of the stairs are two big bins that we can drop our bags into. Bending over to pick up stuff is good exercise too.

    This activity works up our appetite so we go somewhere for a late breakfast. Today we jumped on the local bus and went to Jala. There is a good little restaurant overlooking the square that we went to last week and were happy to return to.

    After eating, we went into the Casa de Cultura to visit the museum.
    It is situated in a historic mansion that was built in the 19th century.
    This small museum, 3 rooms, houses a collection of historical objects that tells the evolution of Jala since its native beginnings.

    There were archaeological pieces in cases and old photographs documenting the life of the town over the centuries.

    There also is a 7 headed giant parade serpent. In this area, there are legends about this horrible beast.

    We sat outside on one of many benches in the quiet and beautiful centre and just enjoyed our time there. Some kids walking by had pastries in trays so we bought a flan to share later.

    A couple showed us where the bus station was and we went back to Ahuacatlan. It’s only 7 km away - a $2.00 trip.

    Then a short nap, a swim in the swimming pool and reading in the sun. There is always a breeze here and no humidity so it is very pleasant sitting out on our patio. What a life we have here.

    The cleaning lady had cleaned our room (she would do it every day if we wanted). She also does our laundry whenever we want to have it done.

    Tonight we are going to a restaurant for their highly recommended ribs.

    Love this place. So grateful.    Leggi altro

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  • LadyandtrampMexico Otra VezLadyandtramp
    A mastodon tooth found in the area1How is it built?A paper maché valentines heartMojigangasIn the Casa de CulturaRestaurant La CasonaOur lunch

    Ixtlan del Rio

    27 gennaio, Messico ⋅ ⛅ 27 °C

    Another short bus ride away took us to Ixtlan del Rio, (place where obsidian abounds) the home of an archaeological site, Los Toriles, that we visited 25 years ago on a trip to Sayulita. We have memories of it as we went with Pat and Gail and Chris Van Bridger (a fellow Culturlingua teacher in Zamora) on the Spring equinox and people were celebrating mystical rites on the old circular temples. Today we just went to the town to check it out.

    Ixtlan del Rio is the main commercial town in the area. There you can buy anything and everything. Vendors line the street with fruit, vegetables, food stalls and small crafts. It was a lot for us to take so we found a place to have a coffee, watch people and acclimatize.

    We walked abound the Central Park, saw the big church and went to the Casa de la Cultura where we had an energetic tour of the little museum. It has two rooms. One room has artifacts from the archaeological site and the other has old photos of the town.

    We noticed some people working in another room making paper mache hearts and flowers for Valentines Day. They love chatting in Spanish with us. I wanted to join them and learn how to make the hearts but… Maybe there will be a little workshop in Ahuacatlan.

    They asked where we were going to have lunch and recommended a place called La Casona. An artist, who painted a big mural in the museum, owned the restaurant and they said that it was like a museum. One guy offered to drive us there as it was several kilometers away. He gently insisted so we got a ride with him. People are so caring and kind here.

    At La Casona, we met the artist who showed us some of his art after we had a very filling lunch. What a nice experience. The restaurant called a taxi for us and the driver dropped us off at the bus station to catch the bus back to Ahuacatlan.    Leggi altro

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  • LadyandtrampMexico Otra VezLadyandtramp

    500 steps up to the Ahuacatlan Letters

    26 gennaio, Messico ⋅ ☀️ 30 °C

    Today, at home there was a snow day. Apparently, so much snow fell that it broke a 180 day record for snowfall in Toronto. The airport cancelled all flights, schools were cancelled and parked cars were buried under the snow. Once again, we are happy that we are here.

    On our first day here, Chris just had to check out the trail up to the town’s sign that we can see from our hotel. But it’s not a trail. It’s 497 stairs going up to it. Each stair has a brick on the face of it showing which family donated money towards building the staircase. It is called Escaleritas.

    Those stairs were calling me so we both headed out early in the morning, passing the bullring and it’s iconic bull statue, then saw the entrance to the stairs and walked up. The views of the town and the volcano were beautiful. Walking up maybe a short-lived habit while we are here. Good exercise in fresh, clean air.

    Here’s someone’s video of the walk up.

    https://fb.watch/EUAMyQXCqS/?fs=e    Leggi altro

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  • LadyandtrampMexico Otra VezLadyandtramp

    Jala, Home of Two (Three?) Giants

    24 gennaio, Messico ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    We took the local bus to the nearby small Magic Town of Jala and its neighbour Jamulco. Jala is a pretty town with cobblestone streets, colonial-era homes, and a very interesting Basilica, which features a four-colored stone facade (green, yellow, pink, and brown). The houses are painted in vivid colours and many of the old colonial mansions have been fixed up and are presently hotels or restaurants.

    There are two giants here, possibly three…

    Giant #1 - Jala lies at the base of the Ceboruco Volcano, or the Black Giant.
    With an altitude of 2,280 meters above sea level, El Ceboruco is an active stratovolcano. Its last recorded eruption was in 1870. Indigenous and Spanish writers reported its violent activity in the 16th century, when its eruptions lit up the skies. We hiked to its craters a few days ago so I won’t go into any details about it.

    Giant #2 - Jala is known for producing the world’s longest ears of corn. The native Jala maize landrace thrives in the volcanic valley at the foot of the Ceboruco volcano.

    Under ideal conditions, a Jala corn plant can reach up to 5 meters tall, and its ears can grow between 35 and 60 cm long. Because of its size and specific needs this variety must be grown by hand and matures slowly. The volcanic soils in Jala provide nutrients and minerals that seem critical for its exceptional growth—a factor that makes reproducing this maize elsewhere extremely difficult.

    Every August, Jala holds a Corn Fair (Feria del Elote) where farmers compete to present the longest ears. This festival draws visitors and raises awareness about preserving this native variety.

    Giant #3 - Chris and I visited the tiny Ahuacatlan museum where there was a photo of a man carting a giant skull in a wheelbarrow. Apparently, the skull of a giant man was found near the volcano. I’m not sure what happened to it but the docent there said that giants lived in this area…    Leggi altro

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  • LadyandtrampMexico Otra VezLadyandtramp

    A Hike to Los Arcos, an old Aqueduct

    22 gennaio, Messico ⋅ ☁️ 25 °C

    We heard about an old aqueduct called Los Arcos that was located somewhere in the hills behind us. We went to look for it and a lady we met kindly took us to the entrance of the trail that was across from the cemetery.

    We walked up into the hills through agave and corn plantations and weren’t really sure where this historic aqueduct was. Our trails guide wasn’t super accurate.

    The aqueduct was built to provide a consistent, gravity-fed supply of fresh water for the people as well as for agricultural, and industrial needs during Ahuacatlan’s time as a significant colonial-era trade hub.

    Aqueducts were essential for bringing water from distant places in order to support the town's growth as a key stop on the Camino Real connecting Guadalajara with the port of San Blas.

    Finally we found the top of it spanning a ravine. We didn’t go down far enough to get a good photo of the arches as the path down looked a little dicey!    Leggi altro

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  • LadyandtrampMexico Otra VezLadyandtramp

    Volcan El Ceboruco

    21 gennaio, Messico ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

    Seven km away is an another small magic town called Jala. It lies at the foot of the big, active volcano, Ceboruco, The Black Giant. We read that we could take a taxi 17 km up the volcano and then do a 2+ hour hike, 6 km, to two craters. The taxi driver would take us up, wait for us and then bring us home. And that’s what we did.Leggi altro

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  • LadyandtrampMexico Otra VezLadyandtramp
    Can you see the butterfly?

    Hotel Quinta Valentina

    18 gennaio, Messico ⋅ ⛅ 28 °C

    We found a gem of a hotel in Ahuacatlan. We booked it for a week but without a second thought, extended our stay here.

    This lovely hotel has beautifully manicured, park-like gardens with friendly wandering peacocks and harlequin chickens. From our balcony, we have wonderful views of the pool area, the cactus gardens and the big Ceboruco volcano. It is truly a Garden of Eden in little Ahuacatlan.

    The room is large and comfortable with a king-sized bed and a quiet air conditioner and fridge. The washroom is modern with lots of hot and cold water. We have a balcony that overlooks the gardens and has comfortable furniture and lights.

    The owner, Javier, is a retired gynaecologist who built this place as a retirement project. We have had some lovely conversations with him in Spanish about Ahuacatlan. His son Francisco takes care of the hotel and speaks quite well in English. The staff are quiet, friendly and very respectful. They even will do our laundry if needed.

    We couldn’t have found a nicer place to spend a few weeks.    Leggi altro

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