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Ancient Wonders: Egypt, Jordan
  • Lynyrd
  • Lynyrd

Ancient Wonders: Egypt, Jordan

Exploring the ancient wonders of Jordan and Egypt. Sail the Nile and dive in the Red Sea Read more
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  • Trip start
    November 17, 2025
    LynyrdAncient Wonders: Egypt, JordanTraveler

    The itinerary

    November 15, 2025 in the United States ⋅ ☁️ 63 °F

    To get the most of my time in Jordan and Egypt I found a tour company and they put together a trip plan for me. This itinerary the first two weeks and is the land portion of the trip. The last two weeks will consist of a cruise up the Nile and a week of diving in the Red Sea.

    Day 1 Tuesday 18/Nov/2025: Arrive in Amman / Transfer to Petra /Overnight Petra hotel.
    Enjoy our Jordan and Egypt Tours. Your tour manager will meet and assist you upon your arrival at Amman International Airport. After that, you will be transferred to your hotel in Amman by a private air-conditioned vehicle for check-in. Upon arrival at the hotel, he will do your check-in and give you detailed information concerning tomorrow’s trip. Overnight in Petra.
    Entry visa for Jordan. 
    Note: Petra by Night runs every Monday, Wednesday, and Thursday of each week.

    Day 2 Wednesday 19/Nov/2025: Petra Tour
    On this day of your Jordan and Egypt Travel Package, after breakfast, visit the red rose city of Petra, the biggest attraction of Jordan. Petra was first established around the 6th century B.C. by the Nabataean Arabs, a nomadic tribe who settled in the area and founded a commercial empire. Pass the canyon, the so-called Siq, to see the most beautiful monument: the Treasury. Continue via the Street of Facades to the Royal Tombs and Pharaoh's Castle, overnight at Petra hotel.
    Meals: Breakfast, Lunch

    Day 3 Thursday 20/Nov/2025: Madaba, Mt. Nebo, and the Dead Sea
    Breakfast at the hotel, then drive to the town of Madaba, where you find the famous 4th-century mosaic map of Palestine in St. George’s church. After that, continue to Mt. Nebo, the place where Prophet Moses gazed at the promised land before he died, and it is alleged to be his burial place. You visit an old monastery and overlook the Jordan Valley, the Dead Sea, and parts of the Holy Land. Afterward, we drive to the lowest point on earth, the Dead Sea, where you have leisure time and the chance to float on water. Overnight Amman hotel.
    Meals: Breakfast, Lunch

    Day 4 Friday 21/Nov/2025: Jerash and Ajloun
    Following breakfast, you will travel north to Jerash. It will be here that you will begin to head to the Temple of Artemis, visit the Oval Plaza, and enjoy the fountains and beauty of this city. From here, you will travel to Ajloun Castle and have the chance to explore this historical structure that dates back to 1184 AD. Then you will travel back to your hotel in Amman for another night in the city. Overnight Amman hotel.
    Meals: Breakfast, Lunch.

    Day 5 Saturday 22/Nov/2025: Fly to Cairo
    Breakfast, according to the flight schedule, transfer to Queen Alia International Airport for your flight to Cairo, where you will be met and assisted, then transfer to your hotel and overnight in Cairo.
    Meals: Breakfast
    Entry visa for Egypt.

    Day 6 Sunday 23/Nov/2025: Pyramids Tour
    After breakfast in your hotel, you will start your day in Saqqara, and then enjoy lunch at a local restaurant. Your next step is to visit the Great Giza Pyramids of Cheops, Chephren, and Mykerinus at the Giza Plateau in Cairo. The Great Sphinx and the Valley Temple round out your first day before returning to your hotel to rest. 
    Meals: Breakfast, Lunch

    Day 7 Monday 24/Nov/2025: The GEM and the Egyptian Museum
    After breakfast, the first stop will be The New Grand Egyptian Museum, also known as the Giza Museum, which is an archaeological museum in Giza, Egypt, about 2 kilometers (1.2 miles) from the Giza pyramid complex. The GEM Complex is now offering access to test site readiness and the visitor experience ahead of the official opening. Admission is currently to the Main Galleries, Grand Hall, Grand Staircase, commercial area, and exterior gardens. After that, you’ll go for lunch at an authentic Egyptian restaurant. Then head over to the Egyptian Museum, in the heart of historic Downtown Cairo, overlooking the infamous Tahrir Square. After relishing the magnificent ancient Egyptian artifacts and treasures. Back to your hotel and overnight in Cairo.
    Meals: Breakfast, Lunch
    Included: Entrance to the second Great Pyramid, Chefren
    Included: Entrance to the Serapeum of Saqqara.

    Day 8 Tuesday 25/Nov/2025: Museum of Egyptian Civilization, Old Cairo & Salah El-Din Citadel
    After a hearty Egyptian breakfast, your expert guide will take you to the National Museum of Egyptian Civilization, home to the royal mummies and a remarkable collection showcasing the diverse history of Egypt. From there, you'll head to Old Cairo, where you’ll explore some of the oldest churches in the country. After a delicious lunch at a local restaurant, continue your journey through history with a visit to the impressive Salah El-Din Citadel, where you’ll explore the grand Mohammed Ali Mosque and take in panoramic views of Cairo. Overnight in Cairo.
    Meals: Breakfast, Lunch.

    Day 9 Wednesday 26/Nov/2025: Alexandria Tour
    Shortly after breakfast, your guide and driver will fetch you, and then you will drive north to the seaside city of Alexandria. Enjoy a visit to the city’s famous Qaitbay Citadel which was built during the 15th century by a powerful sultan, and from there head on to see the New Alexandria Library, which is truly beautiful and worth a visit. You will also visit the city’s old Catacombs, as well as an ancient sunken burial ground that was carved out of the bedrock by the Romans. After visiting this spectacular site, you will then be driven back to your hotel in Cairo for the night.
    Meals: Breakfast, Lunch. 

    Day 10 Thursday 27/Nov/2025: Dahshur and Memphis
    Your private tour guide will pick you up from your hotel, and drive you to the south to start your Great Pyramid Tour of the Red Pyramid and Bent Pyramid at Dahshur. Dahshur is a famous royal necropolis in Egypt that holds many famous Pyramids of King Snefru. The site is about 40 km from Cairo. Move on to visit Memphis, the ancient capital of the Old Kingdom. Lunch will be served at a local restaurant. Later, you will be transferred back to your hotel.
    Meals: Breakfast, Lunch

    Day 11 Friday 28/Nov/2025: Fly to Luxor & Valley of the Queens & Habu & Ramesseum.
    Discover the greatness of the ancient Pharaohs by visiting their legendary temples in Luxor. Start your tour by moving from your hotel in Cairo in the early morning towards Cairo Airport, taking the flight to Luxor. Upon arrival at Luxor, you will be met by our representative, then have a blissful day tour to see the Valley of the Queens, containing the masterpieces of the ancient queens' tombs. Then move on to the Temple Habu. Temple Habu has some of Luxor’s most beautifully preserved ancient art, depicting everything from fierce battles to festival scenes in brilliant colors. and Ramesseum Temple is the memorial temple (or mortuary temple) of Pharaoh Ramesses II lunch is going to be served during your trip, and you will be driven to your hotel in Luxor.
    Meals: Breakfast, lunch
    Note: Please note the standard check-in luggage allowance is 23kg checked and a 7kg cabin allowance applies on this flight (Domestic flights).

    Day 12 Saturday 29/Nov/2025: Then transfer to the Nile cruise.
    Wake up and enjoy a good, hearty breakfast at your hotel. Then transfer to your Nile cruise.
    Meals: Breakfast.

    Day 13 Thursday 04/Dec/2025: Then transfer to the Hotel in Aswan
    Wake up and enjoy a good, hearty breakfast on your cruise. Then transfer to your hotel.
    Meals: Breakfast.

    Day 14 Friday 05/Dec/2025: Transfer to Hurghada
    Wake up and enjoy a good, hearty breakfast at your hotel. Then transfer to Hurghada on the Red Sea coast, where you will check in at the hotel where you will be staying during your time in Hurghada. 
    Meals: Breakfast.

    Day 15 Saturday 06/Dec/2025: Final Departure. 
    Wake up and enjoy a good, hearty breakfast at your hotel. 
    Meals: Breakfast.    Read more

  • LynyrdAncient Wonders: Egypt, JordanTraveler
    Case. He met me at the airport. He was helping two Italians when I met him. He speaks 6 languages
    The airportNot much different than homeMy room in Wadi Musa. Translated it means Valley of Moses.2My second plate. I think the meatballs are lamb.

    Welcome to Jordan!

    November 18, 2025 in Jordan ⋅ ☀️ 72 °F

    The flight was long and one poor one year old cried all the way. Several grandmotherly women came by offering the young mother suggestions and even held and rocked the baby with little success. Earbuds blocked most of it.

    I was met by a rep from the tour company and took me through immigration and customs. Was very easy but did take bags a bit to come out.

    I met my driver and we drove to Petra with a bathroom and snack stop along the way. Sun sets about 6 do I didn't get to see the most interesting landscape as we neared Petra. As we went over one pass he told me they get snow here in the winter!

    I'm now checked into my hotel and we've already modified my itinerary. On the plane I read two books on Petra and the is a smaller ruin called Little Petra that isn't as crowded as Petra. They have a trail that starts in Little Petra and goes into Petra, about 5 miles in total so I decided to do that instead of just visiting Petra.

    I didn't pack a jacket cause I thought it would be hot so we stopped and I bought a hoodie, mostly for the Petra at night display tomorrow night.

    Eating at a Jordanian buffet for dinner. Have no idea of what I'm eating but it is good.

    If this is a bit of a ramble I've been up for 30 hours.

    More tk    Read more

  • LynyrdAncient Wonders: Egypt, JordanTraveler

    The backdoor to Petra, The Rose Red City

    November 19, 2025 in Jordan ⋅ ☀️ 64 °F

    The morning air on the high plateau of the Wadi Araba was thin and crisp, carrying the scent of dry scrub and distant thyme. This was not the famous, crowded entrance to Petra; this was the long way in—the pilgrim’s path, the shepherd’s shortcut, the backdoor trail.
    I began with quiet, winding steps carved into the pale, sun-drenched sandstone. Unlike the dramatic compression of the Siq, this route felt expansive, a long, gradual ascension that unfurled the vastness of the Jordanian landscape. The only sounds were the crunch of gravel underfoot and the occasional call of a local guide far ahead. The rock faces, initially tan and white, slowly began to deepen in hue, turning to shades of rose, gold, and violet as the sun climbed higher.
    The path soon narrowed, becoming a strenuous climb. It was a pilgrimage of effort: switchbacks, uneven stairs, and sheer cliff faces etched with ancient rock-cut tombs, minor altars, and nooks where Nabataeans once sheltered from the midday heat. Each step was a commitment rewarded with ever-widening vistas of jumbled mountains, each one looking like a ruined, colossal city itself.
    Then, around a final, agonizingly steep corner, it appeared.
    The colossal facade of Ad Deir, The Monastery, burst into view. It was a shock of sheer, towering scale, carved not into a protected slot, but into the open face of a mountain peak. The air thrummed with the silence of high altitude and immense history. Compared to the Treasury, Ad Deir felt more austere, more powerful, and utterly alone. I sat on the sun-warmed ledge, dwarfed by the urn 45 meters above us, feeling like I had earned my view not just of Petra, but of the entire world.
    From there, the journey shifted to a descent into the city’s main valley. The narrow trail opened onto the wide, bustling heart of Petra. I passed the monumental ruins of the Great Temple, the intricate mosaics of the Byzantine Church, and walked along the impressive Colonnaded Street, where the ghosts of Roman governors and Nabataean merchants seemed to mingle. The valley floor was a rush of color and activity—tea sellers, souvenir stalls, and the steady stream of travelers who had entered the main way.
    The culmination of the back trail meant moving against the flow. Instead of seeing the Treasury first, I saw it last. I entered the famous, dark passage of the Siq and walked backward through time. The canyon walls rose higher, the light dwindled, and then, through a slender opening, the legendary sight began to reveal itself—the honey-colored columns and intricate carvings of Al-Khazneh, The Treasury.
    It was a final, stunning reveal, framed by the canyon walls. It was the inverse experience: entering the world's most famous room from the interior hallway, not the front door. Having walked the rugged, isolated path, seeing the Treasury—the jewel in the Nabataean crown—felt less like a starting point and more like the perfect, historical exit.    Read more

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    1

    🕯️ Petra By Night: Where Silence Holds

    November 19, 2025 in Jordan ⋅ 🌙 64 °F

    The sun had long vanished, taking the heat and the crowds with it. Now, only the deep desert chill remained, and the expectation of something ancient.
    I stepped into the Siq, but it was no longer the sun-drenched canyon of the day. It was a passage into a dream. Where the daylight had defined every crack and ripple of the rock, the darkness now held sway, punctuated only by the soft, warm glow of thousands of candles.
    A serpentine river of light, the candles lined the canyon floor, their tiny flames dancing to the silent wind. Every footfall was muffled by the sand, forcing us into a shared, reverent quiet. The walls of the Siq rose hundreds of feet above, deep shadows concealing their secrets, while the narrow path below led us deeper, guided by the flickering oil-lamps—a path the Nabataeans might have followed 2,000 years ago.
    Then, the final bend. The canyon mouth opened, and the air caught in my throat.
    There, filling the space like a colossal, silent ghost, was the Al-Khazneh (The Treasury). Its majestic Hellenistic facade was no longer the dusty, pink-orange rock of day, but a vision sculpted from moonlight and candlelight. Hundreds of small flames were placed directly onto the sand before it, their light licking up the columns and catching the high pediment, giving the stone a living, breathing warmth.
    I settled onto a woven mat with others, the world reduced to the sound of soft wind and the crackle of flame. A single Bedouin man began to play a slow, soulful tune on a flute, a melody that seemed to rise directly from the earth. He spoke, sharing tales of the stars, the spirits of the mountains, and the great kings who carved this sanctuary.
    In that moment, suspended between the towering stone and the infinite dark sky, Petra was not a ruin. It was a heart beating slowly, revealed only to those who waited for the silence.    Read more

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    Little Petra

    November 20, 2025 in Jordan ⋅ ☀️ 64 °F

    The sandstone walls of the Siq al-Barid—the "Cold Canyon"—beckon like a narrow, winding arm. This is Little Petra, a miniature echo of the great city just miles away.
    It was not a city of tombs, but a vibrant caravanserai—a suburban stop on the Silk Road. Here, where the sun struggles to reach the floor, wealthy Nabataean merchants once hosted grand banquets for visiting traders. Imagine the scene: music and laughter echoing off the carved facades of dining halls (triclinia).
    Within one cool chamber, a rare masterpiece endures: an ancient Nabataean fresco of grapevines and winged figures, a silent testament to wine, wealth, and sophisticated culture. Little Petra is the quiet, elegant stage where the travelers rested and the deals were sealed before they passed through the gates of the capital.    Read more

  • LynyrdAncient Wonders: Egypt, JordanTraveler

    Wadi Musa to Amman

    November 20, 2025 in Jordan ⋅ ☀️ 66 °F

    You may have noticed my travel posts have been sharper. These are still my observations, but they've been refined and polished with the help of AI.

    Today’s journey began with a stop at Little Petra (Siq al-Barid). The walk across the deep sand was a challenge, as my legs were still protesting after yesterday’s taxing 13-mile hike. Little Petra is actually believed to be chronologically newer than its famous neighbor, Petra. Yet, to the eye, it felt older; the rock carvings and façades here possessed a rawer, less refined finish compared to the intricate, polished precision found in the main city.

    Our early stop at Little Petra gave Amer, my driver, the perfect opportunity to take his favorite back route to the Dead Sea—where a highly anticipated 'cork bob' and lunch awaited.
    Instead of the wide, four-lane national highway we took to Wadi Musa, this route cut through the mountains, offering a thrilling, intimate glimpse into the lives of the local Bedouin residents. The road was incredibly narrow, steep, and winding; in places, I genuinely wondered if it was wide enough for a single car. At one memorable point, we rounded a bend and came up behind two Bedouins on horseback, skillfully herding a large flock of goats down the road with the efficient help of several dogs.

    As we exited the mountain road and descended into the plains, we drove through a vast rubble field—miles of dark, jagged rock, a clear testament to an ancient volcanic eruption in the region.
    As we approached the Dead Sea from the south, Amer pointed out the military observation stations marking the Jordan-Israel border. From the road, we had a clear view across the divide and into Israel itself.
    On this southern end, a large industrial complex dominates the shoreline. Here, salt and other minerals are actively extracted from the Dead Sea water. This industrial extraction, occurring on both sides of the border, combined with the diversion of most of the Jordan River’s flow to supply cities like Amman, has a severe consequence: the sea’s water level is dropping measurably every single year.

    Finally reaching the Dead Sea, the water felt slick and warm. The moment I waded in and lay back, I experienced the legendary 'cork bob.'
    The hyper-saline water gripped me, making sinking impossible. I floated effortlessly, arms and legs barely submerged, feeling completely weightless—a human buoy suspended in the lowest place on Earth. It was the strangest physical sensation.    Read more

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    3

    Dead Sea

    November 20, 2025 in Jordan ⋅ ☀️ 81 °F

    The Dead Sea, a sun-baked grave, is the lowest point on Earth, a shimmering blue basin trapped between ancient mountains. It holds a salinity so intense that no fish can swim, no plant can root. Yet, its density is a marvel: a tourist floats effortlessly on its surface, reading a book, suspended by the same minerals that prohibit life.Read more

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    Mount Nebo

    November 20, 2025 in Jordan ⋅ ☀️ 77 °F

    The old prophet Moses, exhausted by the desert, reached the summit of Mount Nebo.
    Below him lay the sweeping panorama of the Promised Land—Canaan. He saw the Jordan Valley, the distant hills of Judah, and the smoke-filled air above Jericho. This breathtaking view was his final gift; he was forbidden to cross the river.
    He stood alone, gazing upon the destination he had fought for, yet would never touch. On that solitary peak, Moses died, his resting place a secret held forever by the mountain, making Nebo the eternal threshold to hope.    Read more

  • LynyrdAncient Wonders: Egypt, JordanTraveler
    This is Amer, he is camera shy so I had to grab an opportunity to get a picture of him

    Greek Orthodox Church of St. George

    November 20, 2025 in Jordan ⋅ ☀️ 77 °F

    Hidden within the small town of Madaba, Jordan, stands the humble Greek Orthodox Church of St. George, but its fame lies entirely on the floor.
    It is here, embedded in the nave, that the legendary Madaba Map survives—a vast, sixth-century mosaic depicting the Holy Land. Though fragmented, it is the oldest known cartographic representation of the region, featuring over 150 sites from Lebanon to the Nile Delta.
    The map's true marvel is its detail: you can clearly discern Jerusalem with its walls and churches, the Jordan River snaking down to the Dead Sea, and even fishing boats on the water. The Map Church is not grand in architecture, but its floor holds a window into the ancient world, preserving geography and history in vibrant stone for fifteen centuries.    Read more

  • LynyrdAncient Wonders: Egypt, JordanTraveler
    12This area was used as a church during the Byzantine era.If you look closer you will see the mosaics

    The Sentinel of Ajloun

    November 21, 2025 in Jordan ⋅ ☀️ 70 °F

    High atop the verdant hills of northern Jordan, where the air is crisp and the vistas stretch toward the Jordan Valley, stands Ajloun Castle, a formidable sentinel of stone.
    Its story begins in the heat of the Crusades, in 1184 AD. Sultan Saladin needed an eye in the north, a fortress to check the Crusader expansion from their castle at Belvoir and to guard the crucial trade routes connecting Damascus and Egypt. He tasked his nephew and general, Izz al-Din Usama, with the construction.
    The castle, originally known as Qal'at ar-Rabad (Castle of the Suburb), rose on a strategic peak, an architectural masterpiece of the Ayyubid military. Its thick walls, moat, and towering structure were a symbol of Muslim resistance and ingenuity, built to dominate the surrounding valleys.
    Ajloun served its purpose, repelling attacks and securing the region. Though it was briefly damaged by the Mongols in 1260, the mighty Mamluk Sultan Baybars quickly restored and expanded it, ensuring its continued use as a vital administrative centre.
    For centuries, its stone halls witnessed the shifting sands of power, from Ayyubids to Mamluks, and eventually to the Ottomans, before earthquakes left it wounded. Today, Ajloun Castle stands proud, a tangible link to a pivotal era, inviting visitors to climb its ancient steps and gaze out across the land it was built to protect.    Read more

  • LynyrdAncient Wonders: Egypt, JordanTraveler
    Arch of Hadrian
    Chariot races were held hereThis is a water drain in the CardaEntry to the Temple of ArtemisDamascus GateTemple of ArtimusTemple of Artimus

    The Walled City of Gerasa

    November 21, 2025 in Jordan ⋅ 🌙 68 °F

    The city, known then as Gerasa, flourished under Roman rule, becoming a primary center of the Decapolis. Its urban plan was formal and precise. The main thoroughfare was the Cardo Maximus, an 800-meter street lined with over five hundred Corinthian columns.
    Early each morning, life centered around this street. Chariots and wagons passed, deepening the ruts already visible in the original paving stones. Merchants opened shops along the colonnades, selling goods that had traveled the King’s Highway—spices from the East, grain from Egypt. All traffic from the south passed first through the monumental Arch of Hadrian, built to commemorate the emperor’s visit in 129 AD.
    The city’s heart was the Oval Plaza, a large, unique public space paved with limestone and surrounded by Ionic columns. From there, the main street connected to all major civic structures: the two large theaters, the sprawling public baths, and the main religious sanctuaries, including the Temple of Zeus and the grand Temple of Artemis, which stood on a high terrace overlooking the city. A complex system of walls encircled the city, providing defense and managing access through several gates.
    Gerasa's wealth and construction continued for centuries, even after the rise of Christianity, when churches were built alongside the temples. However, this prosperity ended abruptly. In 749 CE, a massive earthquake struck the region. Buildings collapsed, columns fell, and large sections of the walls fractured.
    The devastation was severe, and urban life effectively ceased. Survivors departed, leaving the ruins to the element. Over the next several hundred years, desert sands gradually buried the massive stone structures. This covering is ultimately what protected Gerasa. Today, the ruins of Jerash are one of the best-preserved examples of a provincial Roman city in the world, with its colonnaded streets, theaters, and temples standing as clear evidence of its former status.    Read more

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    View of the Nile from my room.
    1Looking for one of these guys holding a sign with my name on it.

    Cairo

    November 22, 2025 in Egypt ⋅ ☀️ 90 °F

    Made it to Cairo! If you look at the map it's a short straight shot from Amman to Cairo, but to do that you have to fly over Israel, which we didn't do. We flew southwest to Aqaba then northwest to Cairo.

    Was met by my guide just before immigration and he took me through there, after which we picked up my bag and went through customs, then out to the curb where our driver picked us up. I inadvertently insulted my driver by putting on my seatbelt. The tour company has nicknamed him Vin Diesel because of how he drives. First thing you notice about traffic here, besides the volume ( number of cars and all the beeping) is that the lines have no meaning. The other thing you notice is the air pollution.    Read more

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    11Inscriptions on the side of the sarcophagus1The Step Pyramid seen from the Serapeum

    The Serapeum of Saqqara

    November 23, 2025 in Egypt ⋅ ⛅ 68 °F

    The visit to the Serapeum begins at the Saqqara necropolis, near the remnants of the avenue of sphinxes that once led to the site. The complex is an underground catacomb used for the burial of the sacred Apis bulls from Memphis.

    You descend into the rock-cut tunnels of the Great Vaults. This main gallery is functional and immense, stretching for approximately 350 meters. The air is cool and still.
    The primary feature is a series of side chambers carved directly into the limestone walls. Inside these chambers rest the megalithic sarcophagi. These boxes are made of highly polished granite or basalt and are staggering in size—each weighing between 60 and 80 tons.

    Historically, these huge sarcophagi housed the mummified bodies of the Apis bulls, which were worshipped as living manifestations of the god Ptah and, in death, became the fused deity Serapis (Osiris-Apis). The site was used from around 1400 BCE until the Ptolemaic period (30 BCE).
    The Serapeum was rediscovered in 1850 by French archaeologist Auguste Mariette, who followed an ancient Greek description to find the sphinx avenue and the buried entrance. The scale of the hard stone sarcophagi and the precision of their construction remain an engineering and religious marvel of ancient Egypt.    Read more

  • LynyrdAncient Wonders: Egypt, JordanTraveler
    Hard to see here but the entrance is only about 3 and a half feet tall and I s very steep
    1This is the chamber before the burial chamberThere is a constant stream of people entering and exiting.It's hot and humid insideThe burial chamber1Heading out. It's about a 40 degree angle up.1My guide, Nesrine, is on the right, sitting next to the entrance.

    Pyramid of Unas

    November 23, 2025 in Egypt ⋅ ☀️ 77 °F

    The Pyramid of Unas, the final monument of the Fifth Dynasty king, stands on the Saqqara plateau. Its exterior today is modest—the casing stones were removed long ago, leaving a weathered mound of rubble—yet its internal structure documents a crucial development in ancient Egyptian religion. It is significantly smaller than the Step Pyramid located nearby.
    The entrance leads into a narrow passage that descends into the substructure. The air is still, carrying only the scent of dust. The visitor moves toward the burial chamber, the intended final resting place of the Pharaoh.

    Inside, the chamber provides a clear statement of purpose. The black granite sarcophagus is prominent, situated beneath a ceiling painted blue and decorated with gold stars. However, the most important feature is the comprehensive inscription covering the walls.
    The chamber walls are entirely covered, from floor to ceiling, in thousands of vertical columns of hieroglyphs. This compilation represents the earliest surviving religious literature in the world, known as the Pyramid Texts.

    These texts were inscribed with great care. The hieroglyphs are meticulously carved into the stone surface. The content is structured as a sequence of incantations, prayers, and magical spells. They functioned as a direct guide for the deceased King, intended to ensure his successful resurrection and ascension to the sky.
    A specific verse illustrates the king's transformation into a celestial being:
    "O Unas, you are the great one, the son of a great one, the wet-nurse of the great one is yours.

    You go forth to the sky among the stars, among the imperishable stars."
    Other sections include the ritual known as the "Cannibal Hymn," where the king devours the gods to absorb their power, as well as instructions for navigating the Duat, the Egyptian underworld.

    The Pyramid of Unas is historically important because it is the first royal tomb where these extensive religious compositions were permanently inscribed on the internal walls. This decision to anchor the king’s eternal journey with the written word marks a major shift in Egyptian funerary practice and theological expression.
    The chamber preserves a critical moment in the history of Egyptian belief, solidifying the relationship between kingship, magic, and eternity.    Read more

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    5This mask is 11kg of solid gold.

    GEM - The Grand Egyptian Museum

    November 24, 2025 in Egypt ⋅ ☀️ 77 °F

    The museum is indeed the Gem of Egypt, and Grand doesn't even start to describe this beautiful building or the amazing artifacts that it contains. One cannot fully appreciate the museum in one short visit but even a short visit leaves you in awe.

    I've only included a picture of the funerary Mask of Tutankhamun because I don't even know where to start with all the pictures I took today.    Read more

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    King Khufu1King Khufu, only 3 inches tall1The silver coffin of Pharaoh Psusennes I.

    The Egyptian Museum

    November 24, 2025 in Egypt ⋅ ⛅ 79 °F

    We went to The Egyptian Museum after visiting the GEM. The cornerstone was laid in 1897 and still contains many artifacts. I told Nesreen that in many ways I lined this museum more than the GEM because in addition to the history displayed inside the museum, the museum itself is historic and doesn't compete for your attention as the GEM does.

    I've only included a few pictures, again so many to choose from.

    The small statue is the Khufu Statuette, an ancient Egyptian statue and the only known three-dimensional representation of the Pharaoh Khufu, the builder of the Great Pyramid at Giza. It is interesting in that it is only 3 inches tall, yet he built the tallest pyramid in Egypt.

    The inner silver coffin of Pharaoh Psusennes I. Dating from the 21st Dynasty (circa 1047–1001 BC is unique because it is the only silver coffin discovered.    Read more

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    Catacombs of Kom El Shoqafa

    November 25, 2025 in Egypt ⋅ ☀️ 70 °F

    The intense Alexandria sun quickly disappeared as we started our way down. The entrance to the Catacombs of Kom El Shoqafa—a vast underground burial site—was a narrow, circular staircase cut into the rock. This passage spiraled down for three levels, moving us from the loud, modern city to the quiet world of ancient history. The air immediately became cold and damp, carrying the scent of old stone.
    After reaching the first level, we followed winding tunnels and corridors. The site itself is important because it reflects Alexandria’s diverse history and served a crucial function. It was built in a period when Greek, Roman, and Egyptian traditions were actively merging, and constructing tombs underground was a practical way to protect the deceased from tomb robbers and potential destruction, ensuring the sanctity of the burial sites. The most interesting part was the art—a clear and striking blend of these different styles.
    We stopped at the main chamber, dominated by a large niche. The carvings here were highly detailed. On one wall, the Egyptian god of the dead, Anubis, was depicted. Unusually, he was wearing the standard scale armor of a Roman soldier. In other areas, Egyptian religious symbols like the winged solar disk were placed next to decorative Greek columns. This space wasn't just a tomb; it was a physical record of cultural mixing, a place where different civilizations prepared for the afterlife together.
    We continued past the Triclinium, a dining hall used by mourners for ceremonial feasts, and saw the deep, narrow shafts used for lowering the deceased. The enormous size of the chambers and the careful detail of the stonework showed the considerable resources dedicated to building this monument.
    Climbing back up to the surface, the light increased, and the sounds of the city grew louder. Stepping back into the daylight felt abrupt. The visit left a powerful impression: a clear understanding of a place where three major cultures converged, building a unique and lasting memorial to their dead.    Read more

  • LynyrdAncient Wonders: Egypt, JordanTraveler
    4

    The Sentinel of the Mediterranean

    November 25, 2025 in Egypt ⋅ ☀️ 70 °F

    Our traverse across the crowded Corniche ended abruptly at the eastern harbor, where the Citadel of Qaitbay stands as an imposing monument to military endurance. Unlike the catacombs, this structure asserts itself against the vast expanse of the Mediterranean, its stone bastions reflecting the intense, late-morning light. Built in the 15th century, the fortress is strategically positioned on the exact site of the ancient Pharos, Alexandria’s legendary lighthouse, lending a profound sense of historical continuity to the visit.
    The citadel's exterior, constructed from substantial limestone blocks, conveys an immediate impression of stolid invincibility. It is an architectural masterclass in coastal fortification, designed to repel maritime invasion. As we passed through the primary gateway, the noise of the city dissolved, replaced by a quiet echo of past sieges and the constant, rhythmic sound of the waves.
    The true significance of the citadel becomes apparent during the internal ascent. Climbing the narrow, helical staircases to the upper levels felt like navigating a strategic puzzle. Each floor reveals chambers designed for specific defensive roles, from guard barracks to storage magazines. The massive, thick walls—designed to absorb cannon fire—create a stark, protective atmosphere.
    Reaching the roof provided the ultimate vantage point. From this elevation, the history of Alexandria unfolds panoramically. To the west, the curving coastline; to the east, the sprawling city; and directly below, the cerulean waters of the harbor, once dominated by the brilliance of the Pharos. The experience is one of historical fusion—contemplating a Mamluk-era fortress that owes its strategic importance entirely to its classical Greek predecessor. Standing there, one feels connected to a relentless chain of defensive planning that has shaped this coast for two millennia, recognizing the enduring human need for security and permanence.    Read more

  • LynyrdAncient Wonders: Egypt, JordanTraveler
    1

    Headed to Luxor

    November 28, 2025 in Egypt ⋅ 🌙 57 °F

    Saying goodbye to Cairo. Was up at 3 am to head to the airport for my flight to Luxor, looking forward to being on the river cruise tomorrow. I really do not like airports but compared to Bangkok or Miami this isn't bad.

    I really enjoyed my time in Cairo and it was made so much more enjoyable because of Nesreen my guide and Mahmoud our driver. I truly think Mahmoud could compete in NASCAR!

    I am a couple days behind on updating pictures, will work on that, but was able to enter two more pyramids, visited an amazing Mosque and two Christian Churches. I also visited the museum where all the mummies are on display but photography wasn't allowed there.

    More tk    Read more

  • LynyrdAncient Wonders: Egypt, JordanTraveler
    1

    Luxor - Habu Temple

    November 28, 2025 in Egypt ⋅ ☀️ 73 °F

    I landed in Luxor around 8:30 after a short one hour flight from Cairo. It took almost as long for bags to show up on the carousel as it took to fly to Luxor. I was relieved to see that my bag was the third off the conveyor, still paranoid after my experience in the Philippines last year at this time.

    I grabbed my bag and headed out the door to meet my guide and we immediately left for our first destination of the day Habu Temple.

    The first thing you notice in Luxor is the traffic, or lack of it compared to Cairo. Maybe because it was Friday (Muslim's day of prayer, like our Sunday) we had the roads mostly to ourselves. In addition there were not the crowds of tourists here as there was in Cairo.

    You can rent Habu Temple for events, like the wedding they were preparing for.

    The massive walls of Habu Temple—the mortuary temple of Pharaoh Ramesses III—stand like a fortress on the West Bank of Luxor. Stepping through its fortified gatehouse, you enter the grand, lasting testament to a turbulent age.

    In the 12th century BCE, Egypt was reeling from the onslaught of the mysterious Sea Peoples. Ramesses III, the last great pharaoh of the New Kingdom, needed a monument to secure his legacy and, more immediately, to celebrate his survival.

    The vibrant, well-preserved reliefs tell the tale. The stone comes alive with scenes of chaotic, hand-to-hand combat against the invaders: Egyptian archers, chariots, and naval battles where enemy ships capsize. It’s a spectacular, propaganda-filled chronicle of military might and divine protection.

    But Habu was more than just a victory scroll. Within its fortified enclosure, it was a thriving administrative and religious complex—a city within a city—complete with a royal palace and barracks. It was a spiritual sanctuary dedicated to the great god Amun, designed to ensure the Pharaoh's eternal prosperity.
    Even after Ramesses III, the sturdy walls of Medinet Habu offered refuge to the local population during times of unrest, eventually housing a Coptic Christian settlement. Through its long history, from a grand temple of the New Kingdom to a medieval stronghold, the temple has stood firm, an enduring echo of pharaonic power carved into stone.    Read more

  • LynyrdAncient Wonders: Egypt, JordanTraveler

    Valley of the Queens

    November 28, 2025 in Egypt ⋅ ☀️ 75 °F

    Tucked away in the rugged limestone cliffs on the west bank of the Nile, near ancient Thebes (modern Luxor), lies the Valley of the Queens. While the nearby Valley of the Kings was the final resting place for the mighty pharaohs, this secluded desert necropolis, known in ancient Egyptian as Ta-Set-Neferu—"The Place of Beauty" or "The Place of the Royal Children"—was primarily reserved for the most important women and young royalty of the New Kingdom (roughly 1550–1070 BCE).
    The Afterlife for the Royal Elite

    The decision to create a separate burial ground underscored the growing political and religious importance of royal wives and children, particularly during the powerful 19th and 20th Dynasties. Instead of being tucked into a corner of their husband's giant tomb, queens were given their own chance at eternity.

    The over 90 known tombs cut into the rock are not just simple burial chambers; they are elaborate blueprints for the afterlife. Unlike the simple tombs of the earlier 18th Dynasty, the later ones—especially those from the Ramesside period—are masterpieces of ancient Egyptian art. They are adorned with vivid, intricate wall paintings that map out the deceased's journey to the netherworld, guided by gods and protected by sacred spells from the Book of the Dead.

    Nefertari's Masterpiece: The "Sistine Chapel"
    The most spectacular tomb in the Valley of the Queens belongs to Queen Nefertari , the beloved Great Royal Wife of Pharaoh Ramesses II.

    Discovered in 1904, the tomb's decorations are so exceptionally preserved and artistically refined that it's often called the "Sistine Chapel of Ancient Egypt." The paintings show Nefertari, serene and elegantly dressed, playing the game of Senet, being welcomed by gods like Isis and Hathor, and undergoing the rituals necessary for her to be reborn as a divine being. The sheer quality and vibrant colors on the walls offer an unparalleled glimpse into the royal vision of the Egyptian afterlife.

     Unfortunately it is closed to tourists because of the deterioration caused by the crowds of tourists. Plans for restoration are in progress.

    While queens and royal wives were the main focus, the Valley's original name—"The Place of the Royal Children"—is also telling. It holds the tombs of several princes and princesses, including sons of Ramesses III, as well as a few high-ranking nobles and officials from the 18th Dynasty. These royal children, who often died before their fathers, were guaranteed an honorable resting place adjacent to their royal mothers, ensuring their passage to the next world.
    Today, the Valley of the Queens stands as a crucial site for historians and archaeologists, providing unique evidence about the status of women, the complexities of royal succession, and the enduring power of funerary art in ancient Egypt.    Read more

  • LynyrdAncient Wonders: Egypt, JordanTraveler

    Nile River Cruise

    November 29, 2025 in Egypt ⋅ ⛅ 55 °F

    Today I board the Nile Queen II to cruise the river from Luxor to Aswan.

    I received an email from Aggressor about the liveaboard I'm on next week to dive the Red Sea. It was put into dry dock early because of some issue and my heart stopped for a second because I thought they were cancelling the trip. They have brought in another boat that used to be in Oman and the trip will go on as planned. This boat is larger than the one taken out of service and we'll dive the full itinerary as scheduled. Earlier this year in the Cocos Island trip the boat had one engine fail so the trip back took longer on only one engine. About 48 hours instead of the normal 36. They sent a second boat to follow us back to Costa Rica in case the other engine failed.

    More info about the Nile Queen can be found here:

    https://www.aggressor.com/boat/ANQ

    Linda, you can take a look at the menu here:

    https://www.aggressor.com/boat/ANQ#dining

    Not your Carnival cruise ship...    Read more

  • LynyrdAncient Wonders: Egypt, JordanTraveler
    1Our Tuk Tuk transportation
    These are the mud walls of the city still standing. Unfortunately the city is not.The ancient mud brick wall of NekhebOur guides, Mustafa and Ali1There were still bones in one of the lesser tombs1She was running behind our Tuk Tuk trying to sell us baskets

    El Kab

    December 1, 2025 in Egypt ⋅ ☁️ 63 °F

    The sun was already high as we approached El Kab, the ancient city of Nekheb, nestled on the Nile's east bank. Immediately, the immense scale of the mud-brick town walls stunned me. They were a towering, rust-colored testament to millennia, thick enough to hold back an army—or maybe just the sheer weight of time.
    Beyond the walls, the main draw lay in the cliffs: the rock-cut tombs. These weren't the colossal tombs of the Valley of the Kings, but intimate, vivid canvases of ancient life. Inside, the colors in the tomb of the warrior Ahmose, son of Ibana, were breathtakingly preserved. I traced the painted stories of battles and court life, realizing this was where the founding of the New Kingdom was chronicled.    Read more

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