• LouisaJames
Apr – Jun 2017

Australia

A 86-day adventure by LouisaJames Read more
  • Trip start
    April 4, 2017

    Sydney

    April 4, 2017 in Australia ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    Well we have arrived in Sydney! We were treated to a flight around the city before landing. Michelle (Jenna's friend) very kindly picked us up from the airport, in style too, in her new red Mustang and took us to her apartment for the next three nights. It's in the perfect place to explore the city, only 6km from the Opera House or a thirty minute walk. After a good cuppa we walked into town along the harbour bridge and explored The Rocks area. It us where the first European settlers arrived although many of the original buildings have since gone. Those that do remain make you think you are in any British town.Read more

  • Sydney - Manly

    April 5, 2017 in Australia ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

    Took the ferry across the harbour to Manly today. What a lovely and easy way to get to and from the city. We loved the atmosphere around Manly, very relaxed compared to the big city. Visited Manly beach before walking the 10km coastal track to Spit Bridge. Treated ourselves to happy hour beers and a meal over looking the town beach as the sun set. The night lights of Sydney skyline were great to see from the ferry on our return journey.Read more

  • Sydney - Bondi Beach and the CBD

    April 6, 2017 in Australia ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    Had to go and visit Bondi after seeing 'Bondi Rescue' on tv! We were surprised by its size, thought it would be a longer bay. However, it is a lovely beach with very fine sand. Everyone behaved themselves while we were there so no action from the life savers. Can't imagine how busy the beach can get when they have been kniwn to rescue 100 people a day. We had a little stroll around the coast then headed back into town for a look around the Botanical gardens. Really enjoyed being in the middle of the buzz in the CBD at going home time. It was best viewed from a bar of course!Read more

  • Blue Mountains: Wentworth Falls

    April 8, 2017 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

    Its gets light early but pitch black by 6pm, we've adjusted our day accordingly. Yesterday we picked up a car and drove from the centre of Sydney up to the Blue Mountains, staying in a free rest/camp area on the way. We stopped for a picnic lunch at a bowls club and were invited to play (declined unfortunately due to time).
    Getting up early gave us the advantage when walking, having the trails all to ourselves. We walked the National Pass, a track cut into the cliff face of the canyon. Built in 1908 by 4 people in 2 years! Incredible sights of the valley and the Wentworth Falls. Further stops at xx and xx lookouts gave amazing views of the canyons.
    Finished the day in a wild bush camp below the cliffs, surrounded by gum trees.
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  • Blackheath and the Grand Canyon

    April 9, 2017 in Australia ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    Rising early to get the best of the day, we went to the Grand Canyon - a circular walk that took us down a cleft in the cliffs towards the valley floor then explored the huge gulleys filled with ferns and other rainforest foliage. Incredible views and landscape, expecting dinosaurs to still be in there! One of the best walks we've done on our travels.
    Continued to xx viewpoint where Charles Darwin had admired the view (strangely his name has been scratched off the info boards, possibly by someone who thought his evolutionary ideas could never be right??).
    As we left a storm was rolling in, so hastily drove to a camp site in Lithgow and pitched the tent just as the rain came on and thunder overhead. A huge downpour meant the tent was surrounded by 2 inches of water and rising - quick decamp and repitch to safety on higher ground.
    Met an Aussie family who we spent the evening chatting to and sharing their dinner. So far everyone we've met have been so friendly and share the same sarcastic humour!
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  • Wollemi National Park

    April 10, 2017 in Australia ⋅ 🌙 10 °C

    A cold (5 degrees plus wind) night, but thankfully we stayed dry. Left Lithgow and headed up a one way road on a whim, turning out to be one of the best days we've had. Taking a rough track off the road for a walk, we found an area of huge Aboriginal significance by accident and was strangely not signposted. Under a huge overhang of cliffs are the outline prints of hands - some large, some really small ones and in red and white paint. They haven't been fenced off and there isn't much information on dates etc, but was a fantastic find.
    From there we drove further into the park area and went for a walk along a long gone railway line. This snaked up the side of a steep hill and rock face finishing at a 600m long tunnel through the rock. The whole thing must have been a feat of engineering and sleepers, rails and reinforcements can still be seen in places. The tunnel also held a large number of glow worms, so turning off the torch made the tunnel look like the night sky. We returned via an old coaching road carved through the hills, again a massive task.
    We left the paved road and continued on rutted and potholed gravel/mud tracks to the end of the road. Along the way we encounterd our first kangaroos and wallabies in the forest and by the roadside. Also spied a wombat, a massive ball of fur! Spied plenty of bird life including various species of parrot.
    So far we've also seen a snake (plus a huge dead one on the road) and funnel web spiders.
    The wild bush camp is in a clearing surrounded by gum trees and cliff faces, absolutely stunning. A group of wallabies wandered by and we watched them boxing while we ate our dinner.
    Another cold night, but with the nearest street lights 40km away the stars are out.
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  • Gangudy (Dunns Swamp) Wollemi NP

    April 11, 2017 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 15 °C

    Cold but beautiful start to the day where an unusual bird flew in and stood right next to us while eating breakfast. Interesting finding our way back along the track past some old buildings and relics from the oil shale mines to Lithgow, trying to miss the pot holes, etc. Thankfully while back in civilisation we noticed we had a slow puncture thanks to a screw in one of the tyres! Once sorted we made our way further north west through the Capertee Valley (second widest canyon in the world, just not as deep) and back into the Wollema NP where this area is also recognised by the pagoda rock formations. Another bit of unsealed road, where we saw our first kookaburras, and we got to Dunns Swamp. This is a great camping spot where apparently there are platypus! Haven't seen any but plenty of other wildlife like parrots, wallabies, waterfowl and possums that creep up on you in the dark.Read more

  • Dunns Swamp

    April 12, 2017 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C

    Loud and very varied bird call early this morning was a nice way to be woken. Had a stroll around where we were camping and saw more Aboriginal hand prints thought to be around 1000 years old. Climbing over and walking on the wierdly shaped rock pagodas was good fun. Then took a picnic lunch on a longer walk along the 'swamp', which is actually a river that's had a dam built across it. Saw a long cave and some fine views of the area. Finished the day with a fire, great to cook the dinner on.Read more

  • Mudgee wine region

    April 13, 2017 in Australia ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    Reluctantly left the swamp camp to head on a full days drive North to the Mudgee wine region and loop back towards the coast through beautiful and varied countryside. A quick stop in Mudgee to re-supply and have a wander around the old (for Australia!) buildings. On the way out of town we stopped at a vineyard which also had a great collection of vintage motorcycles.
    The wildlife was out in force and included two emu next to the road and a spiky Echidna, a large porcupine type creature the size of a football and pencil size spines - they can grow up to 50cm long. Much of the mileage today was on dusty gravel tracks.
    Stopped in a free community campsite with bbq facilities and a tennis court! This particular site had drinking water and toilet facilities, however most remote sites we have stayed at are basic with a non-flush compost toilet , no electricity or shelter and water has to be taken with you. Many service stations and sports/parks have free hot showers so we can stay fresh and sociable!
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  • Hawks Nest, Wingham and Coppernook

    April 14, 2017 in Australia ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    Another days drive North stopping off in Hawks Nest to have a swim in the warm ocean and body surf in the (sometimes huge) waves with dolphins swimming behind. On the way stopped at a service station in the shape of Ayers Rock (Uluru) and included a random display of goliwogs!????
    Went inland via Wingham which has a charming feel with early 1900's buildings and a old jet aircraft on the village green. We met a team testing their 6 litre Nascar engined sprint boat on the river in preparation for the Easter weekend races. This boat can get up to 120mph!
    After a spectacular sunset we stayed in a forest clearing site, setting up in the dark after dodging wildlife on the gravel track in.
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  • Taree: Sprint Power Boat Racing

    April 15, 2017 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    After yesterday's chance meeting with a local boat team we decided to spend the day watching the racing which took part on a wide section of the river. The track was an oval circuit where up to six boats would race at once. Some boats were six litre V12, capable of 150mph plus! Loud and fast does not come close to describing them. Loads of people lined the river banks with gazebos and picnics, all very social. Lived the crane that lifted boats in and out of the water.Read more

  • Coast Road to Port Macquarie

    April 16, 2017 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

    Took the coastal road stopping off for an early morning walk along the breakwater at Harrington. Had a look at the old (144 years) lighthouse that's still in use that overlooks the beautiful Crowdy Bay National Park. Captain Cook decided on the name after seeing a crowd of aboriginal people there. It's far from crowded today. Spent time on other beaches up the coast before going to the Koala Hospital. Great ethos here as they take in sick koalas and rehabilitate them before releasing them back into the wild, if possible. Some have been there for a while, some are kept screened to minimise exposure to humans and they are never held. We were lucky as they were quite active when we got there. Some were blind, some limbs missing but all quite capable climbers.Read more

  • South West Rocks

    April 17, 2017 in Australia ⋅ 🌙 19 °C

    Didn't really know where to head today but after talking to another tourist at the campsite this morning we were given the idea of visiting this lovely part of the coast. Like all beaches along here they are lovely but rough undercurrents mean it is only really safe to swim in areas with lifeguards and between their flags. They are usually quite close together and can get quite busy, especially as it's a bank holiday weekend. Instead we went to the really interesting Trial Bay Gaol that was built by convicts so they could be based there in order to build a breakwater and safe harbour. It never got completed and the jail was not used again until the first world war as a prison for German civilians. Whike there we saw some Eastern Grey Kangaroos, one with a joey who kept popping its head out! More great views from the Smoky Cape Lighthouse (Captain Cook named it because of what he saw when he arrived).Read more

  • Waterfall Way

    April 18, 2017 in Australia ⋅ ⛅ 3 °C

    Driving inland now along the aptly named Waterfall Way. Stopped for a great view back across to where we were yesterday and took the opportunity to collect dry wood for our evening campfire and dry the tent outer as it is soaking wet every morning from the heavy dew. Went along a 'skywalk' platform at the Dorrigo Rainforest Centre, which took us over the Gondwana Rainforest canopy before undertaking a 2.5 hour walk through it. This also had some waterfalls like Cascade , which you could walk behind. Fascinating plants and bird life, particularly the fig tree that grows over a host tree eventually killing it and leaving a hollow centre where the host once was. Found a museum in Dorrigo, not yet open to the public, where they have a huge collection of locomotives (75), carriages (280) and other railway things. Dangar Falls fell into a cauldron like basin where as the Ebor Falls fell 100m over edge of the escarpment in two stages, the later one being particularly huge. Needed the fire tonight as we are at higher altitudes now and it's quite cold.Read more

  • Waterfall Way Continued...

    April 19, 2017 in Australia ⋅ 🌙 13 °C

    After a cold night (for Aussie) we still managed an outdoor hair wash, etc... unlike the friendly Aussie's in the caravan next to us with their own hot shower. These free (very basic) rest areas area much more social places to camp than most campsites. Hope we will still be doing this sort of thing when we are their age, at 82! We had to get the waterproofs out for our walk at Cathedral Rocks but thankfully the sun came out later in the afternoon. The scramble up and over these huge boulders, finally using a chain to get to the top was brilliant fun. They are huge granite rocks piled up like giant marbles. From here we went along to Wollomombi Gorge and walked to Chandler Lookout where we had a great view of both Wollomombi and Chandler Falls that plunge into an enormous ravine. The 2nd highest falls in Australia at 220 metres. Found another rest area in the nearby tiny hamlet of Wollomombi, on a piece of grassland just across from the small village shop. Wandered across to have a look, turns out that the young couple who have recently taken over also run a pub at the back. About as rustic as it gets, the locals were very friendly and we enjoyed a couple of beers and a long chat. Great to see a slice of backcountry life off the tourist trail.Read more

  • UK or Australia?

    April 21, 2017 in Australia ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    We went back to Wollomombi to do a walk along the gorge the other way. That was after we had seen the local farmers round their cattle up by horse back. As it was early morning we were treated to Rock Wallabies feeding along the cliff edge. Apparently they have suction pads on their feet for easy grip! As we neared the end of Waterfall Way we visited our last waterfall which wasn't even on the map, there are so many, but it was equally as stunning. We restocked at the small city of Armidale which had a lovely hill station feel about it, with some interesting old buildings, many made of the black bricks used locally. The Autumn colours on the 'introduced' trees were amazing (all Aussie trees are evergreen). We went into the tourist information centre but didn't take the leaflet on '10 things to do for the over 40's' as it was all far too sensible! After the daily drying of the tent while eating a picnic lunch we covered a bit of mileage and got to Glen Innes. Another high town at 1100m above sea level. As we drove we passed through so many place names from the UK: Glencoe, Ben Lomond, Llangothlin, Exmouth, Glen Elgin, Aberfoyle... Then again, this region is called New England. The best was Stonehenge as it had a field of balancing rocks that defy gravity. Enjoying the comforts of a paid campsite tonight, like clothes washing, running water, electricity, lights and a covered kitchen.Read more

  • Bald Rock National Park

    April 21, 2017 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C

    Drove North from Glen Innes through agricultural prairie lands to Tenterfield and had a day walk up the Bald Rock. On the way we passed Thunderbolts hideout, a secret base hidden between the huge boulders. Nearby were tank traps from WW2, seen as wooden poles in the first picture. This remote area was the 2nd line of defence if Northern Australia was occupied. 10,000 troops were stationed here in anticipation it would happen. The rock is considered to be second only to Ayers Rock (Uluru) in size, with the summit 200m above the surrounding landscape and is 1,227m above sea level. It's the largest single granite 'stone' in the Southern Hemisphere that no-one has heard of!! A steep climb to the top led to a rounded summit with large standing stones perched on the top. Perfect for playing on...! 360 degree views from the top look out over the endless forests. The lower slopes are covered in boulder fields with mazes, bridges and tunnels to explore. Turned East again to head towards the coast and our final few days on the East coast. Stayed in a quiet woodland clearing, sharing the large area with a friendly Australian couple from Brisbane and their huge fire.Read more

  • Cape Byron Marine Park

    April 22, 2017 in Australia ⋅ 🌙 17 °C

    Had a change in climate today as we descended down to the coast through lush farmland and pasture. Good to put the shorts and tee-shirts back on! Stopped at the recently flooded Lismore (thanks to Cyclone Debbie) and saved a tree frog from being eaten by birds. We had never heard a frog cry out before and once we chased the birds away we relocated it back to the undergrowth of a tree: Karma plus one! Once we were fuelled by ice cream we drove up the coast from Ballina, stopping at beaches along the way and drying out the tent (from the dew that soaks it every night). We enjoyed a Turkish picnic over looking surfers near Lennox Head before spending time at Byron Bay. Byron has a busy vibe, perhaps more urban than we expected. It does have a certain traveller feel and buzz with a large sandy beach and safer looking surf. Spending the night at a camp ground at Mullumbimby Rugby Club where we have been re-acquainted with mosquitos!Read more

  • Gold Coast

    April 23, 2017 in Australia ⋅ ☁️ 23 °C

    Enjoying being back in the warmer weather and like all the other bank holiday weekenders we went to the coast. While it was busy, it had a really good vibe. Parked at Coolangatta and walked up through a market to Kirri Beach and back. Enjoyed a long swim in the sea trying to body surf on the waves. Once the tent was set up we headed back to town as the sun was setting for an early dinner. Treated ourselves to a 'surf and turf' meal, actually enjoying the prawns! The evening view of the Gold Coast as the sun went down was quite impressive.Read more

  • Brisbane

    April 25, 2017 in Australia ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    Yesterday we stayed put at the great campsite in Tweed Head/Coolangatta to spend the day exploring up the Gold Coast and relax in the swimming pool. We enjoyed a couple of swims and being thrown about on the slide. We stopped at Elephant Rocks (Crummbian Beach) to watch the many surfers as it was a good vantage point out in the ocean.
    Today we made it up to Brisbane and went exploring the city in the afternoon. Today is Anzac Day (Remembrance Day) which also means it is a public holiday. It also means it is the only day in the year that they can play 'Two Up', a betting game played in bars. Bets are made between many groups of two people for two coins to land either both heads or both tails before they are flipped. This is all after many people have been to Remembrance parades starting before dawn. We really like the city. It is a very outdoor city complete with a free swimming pool, beach and water fountains to play in. There is also a free river ferry through the main part of the city from where you can see more outdoor pursuits. There are bolts in the river cliffs for climbing, bbq's, walk ways and people on jet skis and kayaks.
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  • Perth & Fremantle

    April 26, 2017 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

    Arrived in Perth, caught bus to city and are on the train to Fremantle - South West of Perth on the coast. Dropped the car off in Brisbane at 7am and will be in Fremantle around 7pm. Although the flight went via Sydney, it's a very, very big country! Some of the views out of the aircraft window were stunning, taking in the coast and desert with dried up salt flats and dirt roads straight and as far as you can see.Read more

  • Freemantle

    April 27, 2017 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

    We spent a lovely day catching up with friends Laura and Julie and their daughter Solana. We first met them on our travels 12 years ago in South America and by coincidence, they also felt the need to travel again. For a couple of months now we have been a few days or weeks ahead of them so it's been great that our paths finally crossed. We explored Freemantle on foot taking in the round house (another old jail) complete with a cannon that is fired at 1pm each day. Or at 1.05 after a few minor technical hitches! We both enjoyed playing at the playpark, almost as much as Solana, as well as having a picnic lunch and paddle in the sea. We really enjoyed catching up with our friends and hope to do it again soon. We finished the day having a beer and steak before returning to prison for our second night stay! At least we got to share a cell together. It's actually a really good Youth Hostel that's not been open that long.Read more

  • Van Life

    April 29, 2017 in Australia ⋅ 🌙 15 °C

    Yesterday we picked up a rented camper van from Perth that we have for the next 56 days until we need to return it to Darwin. After admin, checking the van over and food shopping we didn't get started til late afternoon. However, we managed to get as far as Kojonup (300km) by sunset but left the unpacking until daylight this morning. Already it feels completely different from the East coast as soil seems to have been replaced by red dust/sand. Looking forward to settling into van life for the next eight weeks. We got to Albany today and after a quick look around town and lunch we went up to the viewpoint and Anzac memorial at Mount Clarence. It has amazing views over the Princess Royal Harbour and King George Sound. It's where all the ships carrying 42,000 soldiers, from both NZ and Australia, left for the war in Europe (WW1) but were diverted to Egypt. Booked into a camping holiday park and have enjoyed the pool and spa this evening, although trying to convince ourselves that it's not our scene!Read more

  • Cosy Corner and the Albany coast

    May 1, 2017 in Australia ⋅ 🌙 18 °C

    Managed to see the women's downhill racing live from Lourdes online last night, the men's race started too late unfortunately.
    After a trip for supplies near the Dog Rock (picture below) we explored the Torndirrup National Park to the South West of Albany. The coast is very rugged lined with granite cliffs and scrub land but with white squeaky sand (it really does when you walk on it!) and stunning turquoise water. Features included the Gap and Bridge where the swell crashed into the inlet, Jimmy Newhills harbour, Salmon Holes, Frenchman Bay and Vancouver Peninsular where we had a long walk on the beach, got accosted by a mahoosive friendly dog and visited a bird hide - sadly the birds were mostly hiding.
    After a drive West along the coast, we are staying at the Cosy Corner beach - a free camp area in the trees next to the sea. Very different to the 'luxury' of the last two nights, no wifi or spa but is tranquil and stunning scenery .
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  • Green Pools and Elephant Rocks

    May 2, 2017 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

    Being away from any lights meant we had great views of the stars again. The clear night also meant it was a cold one but warmed up once the sun rose. This was beautiful to watch at the beach with the mist rising. After having a look around historical Denmark we spent most of the day at Green Pools, like a natural sheltered swimming area that had incredibly clear water which we both enjoyed a swim in. We met Bob in the car park, a motorcycle tourer from Las Vegas, who we had a really long natter with about bikes and touring having been to many similar places as him. While on the beach Lou got talking to a lady who had just collected a dead, blue ringed octopus, in her mask that was in the shallow water. We were told, while inspecting it closely, that it would kill you if you touched it! A little research later and we now know that it is Australia's most deadly creature with the fully grown adult (golf ball size) secretions able to kill 26 humans. They do bite but can be unnoticed and will paralyse you. Unfortunately there is no anti-venom and people die the same day. We don't know the fate of the woman who took it away in her googles to show Tourist Information!
    A walk on the rocks took us around the bay to the huge boulders that actually look like massive elephants bathing in the sea. The evening was spent at another beachside campground set in trees (the warning signs would suggest that deadly snakes like it here too!)
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