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February - April 2017
A 55-day adventure by LouisaJames Read more
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  • LouisaJamesNew Zealand
    11111
    Day 11

    Collingwood, Golden Bay

    February 17, 2017 in New Zealand ⋅ 🌧 17 °C

    Up early to get the tent down so we could beat the rain. A very cloudy but dry morning at least for a spectacular drive up and over Makaka Hill into the area called Golden Bay on the very North of the South Island. Suddenly realised we had been through here on our previous travels but only fleetingly. Small towns are very unique and quirky with an artistic feel. The afternoon turned into a very wet one which made for a quick pitching of our tent. Thankfully the campsites that we are currently using (although more expensive) not only have hot showers but kitchens and a small lounge that you can use too! This one is situated on a peninsula with a river on one side and the coast on the other.Read more

  • LouisaJamesNew Zealand
    1
    Day 13

    Fairwell Spit

    February 19, 2017 in New Zealand ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C

    A dry start but with heavy rain clouds in the distance we set off with waterproofs packed to walk along the southern side of this huge, long and wide spit before crossing over to the northern side. Black swans were enjoying the mud flats while the tide was out but sinking sand stopped us venturing out to where they were. We also saw a big contraption that they use to move stranded whales. This was put it to use last weekend sadly as more than 400 had beached themselves on the spit. Big rescue efforts over a couple of days and they managed to re-float a few of them. The beach was clear of them today as those that didn't make it have been moved further up the spit to be buried.
    There were heavy rain showers throughout the day which just made the cliffs and rugged landscape seem even more wild. Several seals hauled themselves up onto the beach to escape the waves and find a bit of calm - they weren't bothered we were there. Later a seal in the water followed us along the beach, surfing and diving through the waves as if to keep us amused. Thankfully the bay was deserted so others couldn't see us applauding and encouraging it!! A beautiful calm evening with views over the hills and sea finished the day.    Read more

  • LouisaJamesNew Zealand
    111
    Day 14

    Heading to the West Coast

    February 20, 2017 in New Zealand ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    Long drive from Collingwood high on the Abel Tasman peninsula towards Greymouth on the West Coast. Interesting and varied road, but so many corners and bends to contend with. Broke up a journey by staying overninght in a basic DOC (Department of Conservation) camp ground on the Old Ghost Road - an old route from the now disappeared gold rush town to the processor on the West Coast. The route is now a two day mountain bike ride theough the wild and high mountains. The route back may be a little easier for some as there is a helicopter service to return riders and bikes to the start! Landed in the middle of the campsite with bikes on a special rack attached - now there's an idea for downhilling....
    Next morning headed to Westport on the coast and turned left for the West Coast, heading South. This will be our path for the next week or two. After stopping off at Cape Foulwind in weather that described the location, a quick cliff top walk watching the crashing waves and a run back to the car. Further on at Kaipakati point there is a small seal colony with lots of young pups, many of whom were splashing around in a nursery pool. After setting up the tent in Punakaiki we explored the pancake rocks and blowholes. These are amazing stacked rocks that have been eroded by the sea to create some really interesting stacks and formations. At high tide the sea rushes through the rocks and emerges as plumes of water. Nearby is the Punakaiki caves which you can explore, however without a torch we didn't venture too far. The landscape here is rugged but very tropical with fern trees and lots of very dense foliage.    Read more

  • LouisaJamesNew Zealand
    1111
    Day 15

    Lake Ianthe Matahi

    February 21, 2017 in New Zealand ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C

    Had a look at the beach where our campsite was located this morning but there was no way that we were going for a swim as the waves and rip tides were very strong. Speaking to the locals the sea is much colder than it usually is at this time of the year but then it's not surprising when they haven't really had their summer this year with it raining everyday on the west coast for the last 11 weeks. Had a lovely day today though with only a short shower this evening.
    This area is in another National Park and it's not surprising at all as it is beautiful. We think we have found the most stunning part of NZ today while walking on the Pororari River Track that we found by chance, often overlooked by the Pancake Rocks nearby. The track, which we walked along to a swing bridge and back, ran alongside a beautiful shallow river with unique fern trees and tall limestone cliffs.
    We then continued our drive further south stopping off at the beaches on the way including Hokitika where we brewed a coffee and had scones.... Camping by Lake Ianthe Matahi with our hundreds of friends (sandflies) but those aside its very picturesque with a jetty that we sat on to eat tea.    Read more

  • LouisaJamesNew Zealand
    Day 16

    Franz Joseph Glacier

    February 22, 2017 in New Zealand ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

    Rain stopped enough to get the tent packed away, cook some breakfast then take a 'bath' in the surprisingly warm lake (just after seeing 2 large eels swim past - backpacker life! You just have to ignore the other campers while undertaking such necessities). A short drive continuing south to Franz Joseph and glacier country. The rivers have changed colour to that glacial blue / grey colour and are very cold and flat lands suddenly give way to hills rising steaply up, covered in dense forest. We were lucky with the weather while we went for a walk up the glacial moraine towards to end of Franz Joseph glacier. It's unbelievable how much the glacier has retreated in the last 12 years. A recent fracture in the now unsupported rock, since the glacier isn't holding it up, has closed the path towards the end as a huge rock fall is imminent. Had a nice treat of scones given to us by a man with a basket full from a local cafe back at the busy campsite, mmmm. Another example of NZ hospitality.Read more

  • LouisaJamesNew Zealand
    1111
    Day 18

    Fox Glacier and the mid west coast

    February 24, 2017 in New Zealand ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

    Left Franz Joseph this morning and headed 30 minutes down the road to the Fox Glacier, the less popular sibling of Franz. Despite not being able to see as much of the glacier, the setting was far superior to Franz. A tall steep sided valley led in a curve towards the snout of the glacier. A drizzly morning gave way to beautiful sunshine. There was a curious sign on the path by the glacier, appearing to warn of being attacked by a seal when swimming .... (pic below). It's amazing how much the glaciers have receded in the last 12 years since we were here last, well over a km in one case.
    Drove further south on a mix of winding mountain roads, coastal tracks and long straight sections where the glacier base would have been. Called into Ship Wreck beach where a boat that sunk off Tasmania floated 2000 miles to NZ and was covered with sand, only being discovered centuries later. The sand flies (think midgies, but larger and nastier) were out in force which meant running up the beach, arms waving to escape. During these antics we watched a small pod of Hector dolphins feeding just off the beach, around 10 metres or less out to sea. They are small dolphins with a distinctive rounded dorsal fin who love to surf the waves and play. After putting up with the flies for as long as possible we drove on to the hamlet of Haast where we are camping.    Read more

  • LouisaJamesNew Zealand
    1111
    Day 18

    Alex's Knob (1300m)

    February 24, 2017 in New Zealand ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    We woke to clear skies so decided to go on a long walk to a viewpoint for good views of Franz Joseph glacier. The board said 22km but what we hadn't realised was that it was to go up a mountain to the viewpoint! We ended up walking the equivalent of Ben Nevis from sea level. The majority of the 7 and a half hours was spent going either straight up or staight down over the loose rocks, boulders and tree rooots along the steep path cut out of the side of the hill in dense forest. The overall height gain was similar to walking up Ben Nevis. The view was kept a surprise until we reached one of the three lookout points along the way. The whole day we could hear the buzz of helicopters first overhead then below us as they took people to see/walk on the glacier as you can no longer walk up to it from the car park since it has receded so much. Scones were offered again this evening which were even more greatly received but we didn't leave any for the regular nightly visitor. Possums are a pest here and they are trying to eradicate them but they do look cute though.Read more

  • LouisaJamesNew Zealand
    1121
    Day 19

    Jackson's Bay - Neil's Beach

    February 25, 2017 in New Zealand ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    We visited this beach 12 years ago purely because its name is the same as Louisa's dad. It was very special then because on that day we sat in the sunshine watching Hector dolphins surfing the waves. Although it is 50km down a dead-end track we wanted to return here. We weren't disappointed. In the morning we watched a large number of them feeding along the whole bay for a long time before continuing along to the end of the road. We went for a walk cutting across the headland to where penguins come up in the evening. The whole peninsula is where penguins choose to come and breed, hence the road signs. We visited an explorers cemetery from the late 1800's with wooden crosses and 'headstones' rotting in the undergrowth and saw a Tui (large black bird with a white neck that has an unusual call). On our way back past Neil's Beach we were in for a surprise. The dolphins were in a very playful mood so we spent 2 and a half hours watching them - surfing, jumping and tail slapping. They were coming so close to the shore that we rolled up our trouser legs to stand in the water to be a bit closer. They are both intelligent and playful (much like ourselves!!!) so were keen to investigate us. We felt the same so on a spur of the moment decision, stripped off to underwear and joined them! They swam around us, coming in closer than 1m and surfing past us in the waves - a truly magical experience on a deserted beach all to ourselves. Finished by brewing up a coffee to warm up whilst continuing to watch them. Top day!Read more

  • LouisaJamesNew Zealand
    2111
    Day 20

    LakeWanaka

    February 26, 2017 in New Zealand ⋅ 🌙 14 °C

    Left the campsite we had been staying at for a couple of nights. Yesterday wewe met Lorraine, 84 and Linda,70 who had slept in the rooms at the site. They were both originally from California but Linda has lived most her life in Alaska. As a retired school teacher both herself and her partner are now Ice Road truckers! She had some stories and photos to share.
    Beautiful weather today, perfect for moving slowly through the Haast Pass stopping off along the way at all the viewpoints. Took a short walk to see , Roaring Billy Waterfall, Fantail Waterfall and the Blue Pools. All the rivers around here are fed by waters from glaciers which meant they were really cold but were incredibly clear. Stopped early to spend some time at this beautiful DOC camp spot on the shores of the lake. Less sandflies here than in most places aroubd here although the same policy of either deet spray or completely cover up applies. Not a bad spot to enjoy your evening meal ...    Read more

  • LouisaJamesNew Zealand
    1
    1111
    Day 21

    Athol

    February 27, 2017 in New Zealand ⋅ 🌙 17 °C

    We had a long driving day and with beautiful weather we were able to make the most of the spectacular scenery. We drove from the top of Lake Wanaka through Wanaka and stopping at the town beach for a picnic. This was such a sleepy town previously but now it is the new chic handout with fancy boutique bars and homeware shops... It still has a nice character and feel with a bit more life. We took the pass near Cardrona ski town and looked over Queestown with the interesting flight path between the mountains, that went below us to the airport there. The next part of the road hung to the hillside with mountains reaching far up above us and a lake to the side before the land flattened out and gave way to parched farmland. Where we stayed had a similar feel to the Blair Athol that we know so well.Read more

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