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New Zealand
  • LouisaJames
Feb – Apr 2017

New Zealand

A 55-day adventure by LouisaJames Read more
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  • Trip start
    February 7, 2017
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    Christchurch

    February 7, 2017 in New Zealand ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    After a long journey we finally arrived in a hot New Zealand with temperatures above 30 degrees at 8pm! A quick visit through 'something to declare' so they could check our tent and walking shoes, which were squeaky clean, so didn't need disinfected and we were on our way by bus into the city. A late night by the time we were checked into the hostel so ready for a good nights sleep after 36 hours of travel. With a mixture of jetlag and someone who liked to call out in his sleep, we were not as refreshed as we had hoped, as we had decisions to make on what we are going to do for the next 2 months. We had a wander around the city centre and couldn't believe the huge amount of damage that previous earthquakes had caused. It was quite unrecognisable from when we were last here 12 years ago but talking to people they have a positive attitude and are using it to change the face of their city to suit modern life. We picked up a relocation car that we have to get to Nelson in 2 days and were really excited to be under our own steam for the first time since travelling, rather than rely on public transport. It is amazing scenery and clean air - a wonderful change to the busy cities we've been in recently. Who'd of thought that shopping for food could have been so exciting! Found a quiet camp ground for the night which happened to be called 'Balmoral'!Read more

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    Lewis Pass

    February 8, 2017 in New Zealand ⋅ ⛅ 29 °C

    Woke to a complete weather change - rain, wind and temperatures of about 11 degrees! Had a slow, leisurely drive stopping off at various viewpoints on the way (there are so many) not covering many kilometres at all but just really enjoying it. Did some decision making while using free wifi from a brilliant library in Hamner Springs before driving through Lewis Pass. The sun came out and we had a good camping spot at one of the Department of Conservation sites (think we will use them lots) sheltering the tent from the wind with the car. The site sits right on the Alpine fault line!Read more

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    Nelson

    February 9, 2017 in New Zealand ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

    Woke to great weather so continued on our way. Drove through the most dramatic landscape constantly taking it in turns to drive. On the way saw a sheep auction so stopped off to take a look before a picnic lunch in a lovely small town called Wakefield. It seems to be the norm here for some people to walk around in bare feet regardless of age or activity, very chilled out. After James dropped Louisa off with the luggage at our new car rental place while he went and dropped the relocation car (other than insurance and petrol, it was free and a great way to get from A to B). Had a walk on Nelson beach before checking into a holiday park campsite which meant we could have a shower and charge everything!Read more

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    Marlborough Sound

    February 10, 2017 in New Zealand ⋅ 🌙 14 °C

    Had a look around the town (had to buy a new sleeping mat as Lou's had developed a rather inconvenient lump right in the middle and a car charger). The town had a lovely feel about it with plenty of green space, flowers and independent shops. Took the road towards Picton which had both stunning sea and big hill views. Took a chance stop at a river and it turned out to be the clearest river we have ever seen, so much so that it tempted James in for a swim. Even the sand flies could not put him off. Far too cold for Louisa though. We ended up in another DOC campground right by the bay.Read more

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    Queen Charlotte Sound, Malborough

    February 11, 2017 in New Zealand ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    Decided to stay here a second night so we could drive to Anakiwa on the other side of the sound to do a day walk. Fishing is hugely popular here and while having breakfast the man camping nearby nearly caught this stingray that swam in front of our tent! Anakiwa is a tiny village well set up for walkers as the Queen Charlotte Track, one of the great tramps, starts from here. This meant we could enjoy a shower in the public toilets (very cold though) on our return, as the campsite has a toilet only. Most DOC campsites are very basic with stream water supply and a drop toilet. Generally small, for around 6 spaces but are in amazing places. People talk of strong winds which have been around all summer and like we have heard many times on our trip 'it's not usually like this'! However, the weather today has been wonderfully warm, sunny and calm.Read more

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    Kenepuru Head, Malborough

    February 12, 2017 in New Zealand ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    The weather is on the change for a few days so tge wind is back. However, that didn't change our plans as we continued further into the Marlborough Sounds National Park driving along the edge of Kenepuru Sound on a steep sided road that had the most winds and bends that we have ever driven. Every now and then the foliage gave way to spectacular views. Louisa nanaged to improve her stone skimming and we both had a laugh on the rope swing, you're never too old! We went on another walk today up to a view point where there were 360 degree views of water, hills and trees. We love the fern trees, there seems to ge so many of them and gives a very tropical feel.Read more

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    Nelson Again

    February 13, 2017 in New Zealand ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    The expected rain and wind arrived over night with force - literally! (The same forecast that made us cancel our plans of a 5 days sea kayak trip and hire the car earlier than planned). We pitched our tent so it was well sheltered from the wind coming off the sound which worked well until the wind changed direction and turned into gale force at about 1am and the rain started. Needless to say we didn't get much sleep so once it was light and we had braced the tent a few times in the really big gusts we decided to get up and get packed away before it broke. The wind had pushed the rain onto our ground sheet so had soaked it and our sleeping mats. A quick dash with the tent to a covered shelter and we could pack it away and get some breakfast while watching the weather.
    We then re-traced our steps back to Nelson, through storm debris and a fallen tree, stopping of on the way at Pelorus Bridge to see the river again. We'd had a small concern about the legality of the tread on the hire car so had a chat with a Policeman (strictly off the record in case they weren't legal!) who explained the NZ law to us. He was a very helpful and friendly person who moved here from Edinburgh 8 years ago, so chatted for a while about life in NZ, particularly the bike trails. The tyres were fine too..... Later the lorry directly in front of us shed a portaloo on a corner, bouncing across the lane and onto the verge on the opposite side of the road. Understand the term 'hitting the fan' now, wouldn't want to deal with the aftermath!
    Spoilt ourselves at a camping park with fantastic kitchen/lounge facilities, amazing powerful HOT showers and drinking water straight from the tap - it'll never catch on!    Read more

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    Kaiteriteri

    February 14, 2017 in New Zealand ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

    Weather back to being really hot in the sun with the wind backing off at night... All this meant it was perfect weather to go on the giant trampoline and have a game of crazy golf - it would be rude not to! Moving up the coast we stopped near Rabbit Island and had fish and chips for lunch (they were delicious and we aren't big fish eaters) although we had to ask for vinegar as it must be a British thing. Travelling through fruit growing territory so had to stop off and buy avocados and apples from a roadside stall, both much cheaper than the shop prices. Hope they taste as good as the Sicilian lemons we bought from outside someones house the other day. Stopped off at another beach and had fun building stuff with pebbles and tried to improve the skimming technique further after Tom's advice. School report reads, keep trying!Read more

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    Abel Tasman National Park - FOUND PENGUI

    February 15, 2017 in New Zealand ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

    A quick drive North up the coast from our campsite in Kaiteriteri to Marahau and the start of the Abel Tasman coastal tramp (NZ for walk). The tramp is normally a 5 day trip with basic camping areas dotted along the way, no access for vehicles along the whole path. We chose to do a day walk as the tramp is booked up 5 months in advance, about 15km in total with a collection from Anchorage Bay by the local Aquataxi. Excellent weather gave the best views and the water seemed turquoise in the sunlight. We were meant to sea kayak in this area for 5 days but were scuppered by the stormy weather, so was good to see the sights.
    On one cliff 100ft above the water, we finally FOUND OUR PENGUIN!!!! Tucked away in a burrow and given away only by its moulted feathers, a Little Blue penguin hid away. How it got up there is another question, maybe they can fly after all! The photo may look close but was in fact quite a distance away using a strong zoom, leaving the little chap to moult in peace.
    One highlight was the ride back from the sea to the Aquataxi HQ on the back of a tractor. Still wearing life jackets and driving up the road in the back of the boat was a new experience. Also see photo on how to transport 17 sea kayaks by boat, NZ style.    Read more

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    Kaiteriteri Locality

    February 16, 2017 in New Zealand ⋅ 🌙 16 °C

    Another stunning weather day, spent the day in the surroundings of the campsite doing necessary chores like laundry, planning, eating and feeding the friendly ducks. The campsite covers 100's of acres with most being forest and scrubland. Started with a game of Pétanque (L1:J0) before moving on to 18 holes of NZ outback golf (L0:J1, overall tie). Ended the afternoon with a swim in the sea and a BBQ dinner with a glass of wine. Once it was dark we went out with the head torch to find the trail that takes you to the glow worms. Didn't think we'd see much but how mistaken we were. There were loads of worms in the top soil that were exposed along the muddy bank which glowed green at one end. It was like looking up at the stars there were that many. They are quite clever as they have sticy 'strings' that hang from them to catch their prey once they have been lured by the bright light. Not the most adventurous day, but very enjoyable nevertheless.Read more

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    Collingwood, Golden Bay

    February 17, 2017 in New Zealand ⋅ 🌧 17 °C

    Up early to get the tent down so we could beat the rain. A very cloudy but dry morning at least for a spectacular drive up and over Makaka Hill into the area called Golden Bay on the very North of the South Island. Suddenly realised we had been through here on our previous travels but only fleetingly. Small towns are very unique and quirky with an artistic feel. The afternoon turned into a very wet one which made for a quick pitching of our tent. Thankfully the campsites that we are currently using (although more expensive) not only have hot showers but kitchens and a small lounge that you can use too! This one is situated on a peninsula with a river on one side and the coast on the other.Read more

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    Fairwell Spit

    February 19, 2017 in New Zealand ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C

    A dry start but with heavy rain clouds in the distance we set off with waterproofs packed to walk along the southern side of this huge, long and wide spit before crossing over to the northern side. Black swans were enjoying the mud flats while the tide was out but sinking sand stopped us venturing out to where they were. We also saw a big contraption that they use to move stranded whales. This was put it to use last weekend sadly as more than 400 had beached themselves on the spit. Big rescue efforts over a couple of days and they managed to re-float a few of them. The beach was clear of them today as those that didn't make it have been moved further up the spit to be buried.
    There were heavy rain showers throughout the day which just made the cliffs and rugged landscape seem even more wild. Several seals hauled themselves up onto the beach to escape the waves and find a bit of calm - they weren't bothered we were there. Later a seal in the water followed us along the beach, surfing and diving through the waves as if to keep us amused. Thankfully the bay was deserted so others couldn't see us applauding and encouraging it!! A beautiful calm evening with views over the hills and sea finished the day.    Read more

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    Heading to the West Coast

    February 20, 2017 in New Zealand ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    Long drive from Collingwood high on the Abel Tasman peninsula towards Greymouth on the West Coast. Interesting and varied road, but so many corners and bends to contend with. Broke up a journey by staying overninght in a basic DOC (Department of Conservation) camp ground on the Old Ghost Road - an old route from the now disappeared gold rush town to the processor on the West Coast. The route is now a two day mountain bike ride theough the wild and high mountains. The route back may be a little easier for some as there is a helicopter service to return riders and bikes to the start! Landed in the middle of the campsite with bikes on a special rack attached - now there's an idea for downhilling....
    Next morning headed to Westport on the coast and turned left for the West Coast, heading South. This will be our path for the next week or two. After stopping off at Cape Foulwind in weather that described the location, a quick cliff top walk watching the crashing waves and a run back to the car. Further on at Kaipakati point there is a small seal colony with lots of young pups, many of whom were splashing around in a nursery pool. After setting up the tent in Punakaiki we explored the pancake rocks and blowholes. These are amazing stacked rocks that have been eroded by the sea to create some really interesting stacks and formations. At high tide the sea rushes through the rocks and emerges as plumes of water. Nearby is the Punakaiki caves which you can explore, however without a torch we didn't venture too far. The landscape here is rugged but very tropical with fern trees and lots of very dense foliage.    Read more

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    Lake Ianthe Matahi

    February 21, 2017 in New Zealand ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C

    Had a look at the beach where our campsite was located this morning but there was no way that we were going for a swim as the waves and rip tides were very strong. Speaking to the locals the sea is much colder than it usually is at this time of the year but then it's not surprising when they haven't really had their summer this year with it raining everyday on the west coast for the last 11 weeks. Had a lovely day today though with only a short shower this evening.
    This area is in another National Park and it's not surprising at all as it is beautiful. We think we have found the most stunning part of NZ today while walking on the Pororari River Track that we found by chance, often overlooked by the Pancake Rocks nearby. The track, which we walked along to a swing bridge and back, ran alongside a beautiful shallow river with unique fern trees and tall limestone cliffs.
    We then continued our drive further south stopping off at the beaches on the way including Hokitika where we brewed a coffee and had scones.... Camping by Lake Ianthe Matahi with our hundreds of friends (sandflies) but those aside its very picturesque with a jetty that we sat on to eat tea.    Read more

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    Franz Joseph Glacier

    February 22, 2017 in New Zealand ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

    Rain stopped enough to get the tent packed away, cook some breakfast then take a 'bath' in the surprisingly warm lake (just after seeing 2 large eels swim past - backpacker life! You just have to ignore the other campers while undertaking such necessities). A short drive continuing south to Franz Joseph and glacier country. The rivers have changed colour to that glacial blue / grey colour and are very cold and flat lands suddenly give way to hills rising steaply up, covered in dense forest. We were lucky with the weather while we went for a walk up the glacial moraine towards to end of Franz Joseph glacier. It's unbelievable how much the glacier has retreated in the last 12 years. A recent fracture in the now unsupported rock, since the glacier isn't holding it up, has closed the path towards the end as a huge rock fall is imminent. Had a nice treat of scones given to us by a man with a basket full from a local cafe back at the busy campsite, mmmm. Another example of NZ hospitality.Read more

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    Fox Glacier and the mid west coast

    February 24, 2017 in New Zealand ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

    Left Franz Joseph this morning and headed 30 minutes down the road to the Fox Glacier, the less popular sibling of Franz. Despite not being able to see as much of the glacier, the setting was far superior to Franz. A tall steep sided valley led in a curve towards the snout of the glacier. A drizzly morning gave way to beautiful sunshine. There was a curious sign on the path by the glacier, appearing to warn of being attacked by a seal when swimming .... (pic below). It's amazing how much the glaciers have receded in the last 12 years since we were here last, well over a km in one case.
    Drove further south on a mix of winding mountain roads, coastal tracks and long straight sections where the glacier base would have been. Called into Ship Wreck beach where a boat that sunk off Tasmania floated 2000 miles to NZ and was covered with sand, only being discovered centuries later. The sand flies (think midgies, but larger and nastier) were out in force which meant running up the beach, arms waving to escape. During these antics we watched a small pod of Hector dolphins feeding just off the beach, around 10 metres or less out to sea. They are small dolphins with a distinctive rounded dorsal fin who love to surf the waves and play. After putting up with the flies for as long as possible we drove on to the hamlet of Haast where we are camping.    Read more

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    Alex's Knob (1300m)

    February 24, 2017 in New Zealand ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    We woke to clear skies so decided to go on a long walk to a viewpoint for good views of Franz Joseph glacier. The board said 22km but what we hadn't realised was that it was to go up a mountain to the viewpoint! We ended up walking the equivalent of Ben Nevis from sea level. The majority of the 7 and a half hours was spent going either straight up or staight down over the loose rocks, boulders and tree rooots along the steep path cut out of the side of the hill in dense forest. The overall height gain was similar to walking up Ben Nevis. The view was kept a surprise until we reached one of the three lookout points along the way. The whole day we could hear the buzz of helicopters first overhead then below us as they took people to see/walk on the glacier as you can no longer walk up to it from the car park since it has receded so much. Scones were offered again this evening which were even more greatly received but we didn't leave any for the regular nightly visitor. Possums are a pest here and they are trying to eradicate them but they do look cute though.Read more

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    Jackson's Bay - Neil's Beach

    February 25, 2017 in New Zealand ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    We visited this beach 12 years ago purely because its name is the same as Louisa's dad. It was very special then because on that day we sat in the sunshine watching Hector dolphins surfing the waves. Although it is 50km down a dead-end track we wanted to return here. We weren't disappointed. In the morning we watched a large number of them feeding along the whole bay for a long time before continuing along to the end of the road. We went for a walk cutting across the headland to where penguins come up in the evening. The whole peninsula is where penguins choose to come and breed, hence the road signs. We visited an explorers cemetery from the late 1800's with wooden crosses and 'headstones' rotting in the undergrowth and saw a Tui (large black bird with a white neck that has an unusual call). On our way back past Neil's Beach we were in for a surprise. The dolphins were in a very playful mood so we spent 2 and a half hours watching them - surfing, jumping and tail slapping. They were coming so close to the shore that we rolled up our trouser legs to stand in the water to be a bit closer. They are both intelligent and playful (much like ourselves!!!) so were keen to investigate us. We felt the same so on a spur of the moment decision, stripped off to underwear and joined them! They swam around us, coming in closer than 1m and surfing past us in the waves - a truly magical experience on a deserted beach all to ourselves. Finished by brewing up a coffee to warm up whilst continuing to watch them. Top day!Read more

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    LakeWanaka

    February 26, 2017 in New Zealand ⋅ 🌙 14 °C

    Left the campsite we had been staying at for a couple of nights. Yesterday wewe met Lorraine, 84 and Linda,70 who had slept in the rooms at the site. They were both originally from California but Linda has lived most her life in Alaska. As a retired school teacher both herself and her partner are now Ice Road truckers! She had some stories and photos to share.
    Beautiful weather today, perfect for moving slowly through the Haast Pass stopping off along the way at all the viewpoints. Took a short walk to see , Roaring Billy Waterfall, Fantail Waterfall and the Blue Pools. All the rivers around here are fed by waters from glaciers which meant they were really cold but were incredibly clear. Stopped early to spend some time at this beautiful DOC camp spot on the shores of the lake. Less sandflies here than in most places aroubd here although the same policy of either deet spray or completely cover up applies. Not a bad spot to enjoy your evening meal ...    Read more

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    Athol

    February 27, 2017 in New Zealand ⋅ 🌙 17 °C

    We had a long driving day and with beautiful weather we were able to make the most of the spectacular scenery. We drove from the top of Lake Wanaka through Wanaka and stopping at the town beach for a picnic. This was such a sleepy town previously but now it is the new chic handout with fancy boutique bars and homeware shops... It still has a nice character and feel with a bit more life. We took the pass near Cardrona ski town and looked over Queestown with the interesting flight path between the mountains, that went below us to the airport there. The next part of the road hung to the hillside with mountains reaching far up above us and a lake to the side before the land flattened out and gave way to parched farmland. Where we stayed had a similar feel to the Blair Athol that we know so well.Read more

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    The South (West) coast - Orepuki

    February 28, 2017 in New Zealand ⋅ 🌙 12 °C

    Another long driving day through varied countryside. Went from low level rolling hills to huge rocky outcrops to forest and rugged coastline. Skimmed past the Fjordland area, calling in at Lumsden and Te Anau for old times sake. Sun was out so went for a swim at Frasers beach on lake Manipouri which has stunning mountains as a backdrop. Continued on to Orepuki which has miles of sandy beaches to walk along. Relaxed with a scone and jam on the beach - how civilised!Read more

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    Bluff

    March 1, 2017 in New Zealand ⋅ ⛅ 31 °C

    We continued on our journey along the Southern Scenic Route stopping of to explore coves and 'towns' as we went. Cosy Cove was actually quite wild although once had a Maori community of about 40 huts. Found the old train in a rather quaint town called Riverton (more like a small village). There are very few current railway tracks in NZ and even less since the earthquake and fire have closed two lines. After shopping for a new sleeping mat again for Louisa as her previous one only lasted two weeks before that delaminated also we continued down to Bluff for a walk around Bluff hill (found a great downhill track that's currently closed). We saw plenty more Tui as well as NZ pigeons, terns, shearwaters and albatross playing in the wind. Bluff is the oldest European town in New Zealand, having been settled since 1824. Today was the start of the oyster season, if only we could stomach them!Read more

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    Invercargill and the amazing Ashers camp

    March 2, 2017 in New Zealand ⋅ ⛅ 31 °C

    Spent the morning wandering the Heritage Trail of Invercargill, looking at buildings from the late 1800's to 1930's. A mix of churches and commercial properties. Invercargill is a mixed bag of a city which has clearly seen better days, which is a shame as there is some interesting architechture and certain parts of the city have a good feeling about them.
    Continued East along the coast to the Waituna Wetlands to spot birds and carnivorous plants.
    Stopped for the night at the Lignite pit cafe and secret garden. A converted lignite/coal pit that has been turned into a beautiful garden and lake with various tiered walkways and hidden seating areas. As there was a gale forecast, the owner suggested camping in the secret garden. This turned out to be a concrete floored greenhouse full of plants and shrubs. The fairy lights gave the impression of sleeping under the stars. A bit like sleeping in a garden centre, but the best/random place we've pitched the tent - ever!!    Read more

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    Catlins Coastal Heritage Trail

    March 3, 2017 in New Zealand ⋅ ⛅ 31 °C

    Got away early while it was still calm and sunny to explore this wild, beautiful coastline and learn a bit about the history of this place. Coincidentally our first stop was at a village called Fortrose, named so because of a Scottish drover who claimed it was similar to Fortrose in Scotland. We watched sea lions wrestling with each other at Waipapa Point, where a wooden lighthouse was built after NZ's worst maritime disaster when 131 people died after a ship sank in 1881. Children from the local school raised enough mobey to buy a headstone for the mass grave that they were buried in. Having been to the most northern point of the South Island we visited the southernmost point of mainland NZ, called Slope Point. We were nearer to the South Pole than the Equator. That may be why we were then greeted with howling winds and pouring rain for our visit to Curio Bay! Careful planning so we were there at low tide meant we could see one of the world's finest fossil forests. Petrified stumps, fallen trees and fern imprints from the Jurassic period are 180 million years old. We saw more Hector dolphins (they are meant to be rare) at Porpoise Bay before deciding to get out of the storm and back to the shelter of our secret garden again. Even the seagulls found shelter behind seaweed and the trees grow at funny angles.Read more

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    Nugget Point

    March 4, 2017 in New Zealand ⋅ ☀️ 14 °C

    Time to leave our sheltered campsite this morning although it's continued to be very windy all day. We went to Mclean Falls which were spectacular with a single fall of 22 meters. We tried to go to Cathedral Caves but a 5 meter swell, even at low tide, meant it was unsafe to visit them. Papatowai beach was a great picnic spot and a chance to search the rock pools for fossils whilst watchibg the spray coming off the crest of the waves. Just a little further along another gravel road we went to Jack's Blowhole that was 200 meters inland where the sea came crashing into. Plenty of sea lions at the base of the Nugget Point and lighthouse. It was odd standing on the narrow peninsula with the rough sea on one side and calm sea on the other. A short distance away was Roaring Bay where we saw a rare yellow eyed penguin that had just come back to shore for the evening. Treated ourselves to a 'cabin' for the night (bunkbed, kettle, heater, tv and dvd player) to escape the strong winds and watched a film, luxury!Read more

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