• Days 3 & 4: Roncesvalles-Zubiri-Pamplona

      April 4, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 68 °F

      After the brutal walk to Roncesvalles, yesterday was a nice change. Still some uphill, but not unrelenting as before. But we all know that going down can be just as hard! The rock here is crazy- it literally cuts diagonal, so as you go down, you have to skirt rock edges. That was a tiring end to the longest day I’ve had yet (and the furthest I’ve ever carried a loaded pack- 13.4mi).

      Today was a slightly shorter walk to Pamplona. There was no breakfast or coffee available in Zubiri this morning, so the cafe just over 5 miles in was so welcome! I’m learning to take breaks that last longer than 3 minutes (always pushing to the end without adequate rest along the day is a big struggle for me). I’m still working on slowing down and not feeling like it’s a race with everyone else- this whole walk is about the journey after all! I’ve noticed that my body feels better when I walk a little slower.

      So far only one blister, but it’s making itself a bit of a nuisance. It’s growing, despite my best efforts. Muscles are sore, but not too painful. Finding food is a bit of a pain- I nearly cried when I saw the Greek yogurt and a gluten free section in the grocery store tonight. After eating Spanish food for the last couple weeks, it’s nice to have some variety. Dinner tonight was Burger King- I haven’t had a fast food burger in over a year, and boy did it hit the spot!

      Pamplona is the biggest place I’ve been so far on the Camino. It’s nice to have all of amenities of a city available.

      In an effort to make the walk easier, I mailed a package of some things ahead to pick up at a post office. Hopefully a lighter load tomorrow makes the walk easier. I’d been thinking of staying 2 nights in Pamplona, but the albergue I’m at is full tomorrow.

      I finally felt like being social and have met a lot of people! Tried my little French, kind of had a very basic convo in German. Lots of Aussies, Americans, Germans, Koreans, French, and many others.
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    • Bambam when leaving the hostal this morning
      Leaving ValcarlosBasque hay manEarly in the hike- definitely fewer smiles later on!So steep!View from the top15 miles down, 472 to go

      Valcarlos a Orreaga/Roncesvalles

      April 3, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 59 °F

      I’m glad the Camino started with a good day, because today was a beat down. I got a bit late of a start at just after 9. I knew that it would be a lot of uphill, but I had no idea! I’m not sure the accuracy of this, but I found online that over the course of the 7.5 miles I walked, there was an elevation gain of 3,940 feet with a loss of 2,011 ft. I began using a mantra to keep myself going “poco a poco, paso a paso.” I’d keep my head down, pick a spot a bit up the trail, walk there, stop for a short breather. Repeat ad nauseam. Also, thank God for earbuds and iPhones- I was able to listen to some upbeat music, which helped. And just when I thought the uphill would never end, the trail let out onto a beautiful hilltop (unfortunately, I didn’t stay to enjoy it- nature was calling and it’s not the sort of place to dig a cat hole!)

      Check in to the albergue was easy, though a poor French girl in front of me was denied a bed as she didn’t have her physical passport on her. I bought food tickets for breakfast and dinner, but the assigned restaurant said they couldn’t accommodate celiac. Fortunately the next one I went to said they could, so I got the tickets changed. I’m a little nervous about how well they’ll do, as it’s a small place with probably hundreds of pilgrims. Prayers that they get it right and that my body does ok with the food!

      Only a few pictures today and no video because I was dead. Hoping for a good night’s sleep before a long day tomorrow- less elevation, so it shouldn’t be too bad 🤞
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    • Leaving SJPDP
      Sheep!Feeling goodCrossing into SpainAlmost therePretty place for a snackThanks Juan y Ainara for the chocolateMemorial to the Basques that fought and beat Charlemagne

      First day of Camino: SJPDP to Valcarlos

      April 2, 2024 in Spain ⋅ 🌬 61 °F

      I arrived in St Jean Pied de Port (SJPDP) yesterday with what felt like 100 other pilgrims on a small train. It was a bit overwhelming, but after picking up my credential and getting a spot in a hostel, I was able to get the alone time I needed. Today I walked 8 miles to Valcarlos. It was a tiring and fun day. Many walked an additional 7 miles, so it was an exercise in slowing down for me. The inn host tonight is wonderful, as is her puppy Bambam.Read more

    • Alcazaba in Malaga- built by the MoorsBull ring- only seen from a distanceMezquita in Córdoba. BeatifulDelcioso!The gluten free salad option- tuna wrapped in ham with tomato! Not so good

      Málaga, Córdoba, end of the road trip

      Mar 24–28, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 57 °F

      We stayed in a lovely Airbnb along one of the beaches off Malaga. We explored Málaga, had a day trip to Córdoba, and then road-tripped through Almería and Alicante to Donostia-San Sebastián. Driving in another country isn’t for the faint of heart!Read more

    • Madrid & roadtrippin’

      Mar 22–24, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 73 °F

      We explored Madrid a bit more, rested from travel, and did a tapas cooking class. It was delicious and I’m excited to try the recipes at home! Then we picked up a rental car and drove 5 hours to Málaga, stopping to see the windmills of Don Quixote fame. The Spanish major in me loved it.Read more

    • Last breakfast at home
      Headed to the airport!Wandering the streets of Madrid in a hungry, sleepless dazeTasty breakfast at Naked & Sated. I stumbled upon it while on the way to a different place.First shell sighting! It's on our hotel in MadridDELICIOUS croquetas! Been dreaming of them for the last 18 years.

      KCI-MAD, first day in Spain

      March 22, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 77 °F

      It’s been a whirlwind couple of days. Yesterday morning I was at home about to leave on this adventure. Now I’m climbing into bed after a sleepless overnight plane ride (typical for me), sampling gluten free foods in Madrid, and a little downtime.Read more

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