torres

there might be more errors than usual...sorry about that but I'm on the plane in Bogotá about to take off trying to post this before returning to Toronto

There are so many amazing sites to see in Patagonia, but some of them are very expensive to get to and see. Plus, even taking into account the remoteness of Patagonia, there's definitely some price gouging going on sometimes, and the crowds on one of the hikes was a little much, but I'm still very happy I went becuase it's a very impressive and beautiful part of the planet.

Torres del Paine National Park is a huge park with many sections and trails, and there are various ways to access many of them. One way, which seems like a must for serious hikers, a rite of passage almost, is either the W or the O trek - 5 and 8-day treks respectively - two of the most famous and popular multi-day treks in South America. You can also do more modest 2 or 3 day hikes and access some the more famous trails that way.

Whatever multi day trek you do, you can only camp in certain designated areas along the hike, nowhere else, no wild camping. This means that the platforms where you place your tent on if you have your own gear (by far the cheapest option), tent and gear (sleeping bag, etc.) rentals (super expensive), or have a bed in a refugio (cabins and super duper expensive), book up many months in advance. This was Gi's original plan but the platform spots book are the first to get snatched up and were all gone by the time she went to to book.

So plan B was stay in Puerto Natales which is the closest city to the park entrance and where most people stay if they're not staying in the park itself. It's about almost a two hour bus ride away and while there are a few sites closer you can stay at, there's all super pricey. Puerto Natales is the closest place you can get reasonably priced accommodations. 

Since weather is always a consideration when hiking, we decided to stay in Puerto Natales 5 days because it looked like there would probably be at least 3 good days within the 5 good for hiking. To hike Torres del Paine, there are no one-day passes, except if you go on a tour. Otherwise, it's a 3-day pass which is what we bought, or 3+day pass, which is what all the 5 and 8-day trekkers buy.  

It's funny because it wasn't a slam dunk that we'd even be going to Torres del Paine, and in fact at one point Gi said she'd be OK with skipping it. We had both read and heard how busy some of the more popular trails can get in the summer, especially the most famous one of all, Mirador Base Torres. We'd been pretty spoiled in our trip to date in that there had rarely been a lot of people on any of the trails we'd done, and sometimes we were even alone! So we weren't sure if we wanted to be hiking in lineups, no matter how amazing and beautiful it might be. But we were convinced along the way and I'm glad we were, even though there were some moments where I was losing my shit (almost always internally though, not externally) at how slow the going was. It's a pretty tough hike but because of its iconic stature many people who, shall we say, are not in the best of shape, want to hike it. On the one hand, I applaud and totally support their willingness and adventurousness at attempting something that's obviosuly very difficult for them and outside their comfort zone. On the other hand, they're in my fucking way! Hahahaha, but seriously, I know that we've all paid, we all have the right to climb, and everyone should climb at the pace that's safe and comfortable for them. So the parts that are narrow, where you can't pass (not safely anyway) you have to be patient until there's an opening, an opportunity...and then you pounce! You announce yourself in some way, then you pass, you zig and you zag, you skip and you hop and you bop, and you're free from the masses! ...until the next logjam, but man it feels good for that time when you can go the pace you like. I feel best hiking when I'm doing it at the pace that at that particular place and time feels just right. Sometimes it's chill, but mostly it's not, and sometimes it's a gruelling uphill section but whatever the pace, a flow state can ensue and it's a beautiful thing. I would say I'm a medium to medium fast hiker for the most part, when I'm in good form. Of couse that changes after eating or towards the end of a tough hike and then I might go full tortoise.     

Well, I'm sure I'm omitting tons but I'm on the plane, takeoff is imminent and I want to post asap or it might never get done.

Peace, love and flow,

MikeRead more