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Italy & Switzerland
  • Martha Sleutel
september 2023

Italy & Switzerland

Et 25-dagers eventyr av Martha Les mer
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  • Reisens start
    5. september 2023
    Martha SleutelItaly & SwitzerlandMartha Sleutel
    Varenna and Lake Como
    Enchanting medieval cobblestone steps through archway to the lakeStone steps everywhere! (some dating to 1200s)Stone path through shops, homes and cafes down to lakeAncient cobblestone steps worn down over the agesGarage carved from cliffside rockAnother stone path beckons down to the lakeThere were topless swimmers earlier ....View of Lake Como and sailboat

    Transportation Marathon DFW to Italy

    6. september 2023, Italia ⋅ ☀️ 73 °F

    Our seemingly endless first travel day took us to gorgeous Varenna, Italy, nestled on the shore of Lake Como. We started before dawn to fly from DFW to La Guardia. However, our overnight flight to Milan left from a different NYC airport, JKF, requiring a taxi ride between the two airports AND a 6-hour layover before takeoff.

    Then, surprise in Milan! Italian train workers are on strike! "Plan-ahead" Charlie had already advance-purchased train tickets from the airport to Central Milan, then to Varenna, 75 miles North. It took a few hours (along with everyone else) to take a bus from the airport to a metro stop, then the metro to the Central Train Station.

    The train station was a hub of crowds and chaos, worsened for us because the Italians couldn't always understand our questions. And we couldn't always understand their answers. Bottom line, no trains were going to Varenna, and there was no bus service there either.

    While Charlie investigated rental car options (none), I hung out at the taxi area, listening for anyone speaking English. Luckily, we were able to share a taxi with a lovely Dutch couple and were dropped off right at our apartment. By now, it was 3 PM, and we were exhausted and hungry. Surprise again! The grocery store and cafes close from 2 - 4 PM every day. Siesta time, I guess?

    After getting settled, we got food and walked around the town before hitting the bed. Pictures below are of this stunning village clinging to cliffs before an azure lake.    Les mer

  • Martha SleutelItaly & SwitzerlandMartha Sleutel
    Unidentified flower next to trail
    Stone path went up and up and up to the castle on the hillNear the top - centuries-old water basin and horse trough. Trail on the rightLovely overlook just below castleTown of Varenna below usSleeping eurasian eagle-owlView of lake above the many olive grovesHalfway down - castle tower barely visible at top on right, Varenna below on leftWindow sill cactus at Villa Monastero180 degree view from just below Castello di Vezio

    Hilltop Castle and Villa

    7. september 2023, Italia ⋅ ☀️ 75 °F

    A steep, stony trail leads to Vezio Castle (Castella di Vezio), high on the cliffs, and built on the remains of an ancient Roman fort. Ruins and artifacts date to the 2nd century AD. On the trek up (and down), we enjoyed lake and town vistas, including from the castle tower and trail viewpoints. We did not see the castle falconry show, but did take a picture of their sleeping Eurasian eagle owl.

    Back down in the Varenna, we toured the Villa Monastero, former home and gardens of the di Marchi family. It is one of several 19th century villas facing the lake (where visitors arrived). These are so strictly protected that current residents cannot even change the paint colors!

    On our (fairly challenging) hike to the castle, we were surprised to see about 80% of women wearing dresses or skirts, most of them long (up on the trail). Back in town, about 60% wear dresses, some short, and again, most ankle or floor-length. Tops are in various tank-top styles, including strapless tube tops. My favorite, since I could never wear this, is two pieces of fabric crossed across the woman's chest (for those with enough curves to hold the fabric in place). Since the majority here seem to speak Italian, maybe it is an Italian fashion thing?    Les mer

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  • Martha SleutelItaly & SwitzerlandMartha Sleutel
    View leaving Varenna's harbor
    View of BellagioBellagio's harborfront - Note the blooming oleanders, pruned as treesBellagio's San Giacomo ChurchView of MenaggioMenaggio's Saint Stefano ChurchAt the top of the hill in Menaggio's medieval castle areaGate of private residence in MenaggioReturning to Varenna - Look for castle high on the hill in the centerOne of many ferries and other transportation boats at Lake Como

    Nautical Musical Chairs (Boats)

    8. september 2023, Italia ⋅ ☀️ 72 °F

    Lake Como has many charming villages dotting its mountain shores, all connected by boats and ferries. Today's plan was scenic village-hopping by boat. This turned out to be more complicated than we expected.

    Our first hurdle was that not all boats went to all towns, AND instead of leaving every 20 minutes (as we had expected), the timing varied, with hour-long gaps at mid-day. Charlie had in mind certain points of interest and/or hikes/strolls in different villages. The boat schedule reduced the number of towns to see.

    The 2nd hurdle was not unexpected, since the villages are at the base of mountains. From the boat docks, all paths and trails went up steeply through the towns. Walking up through those towns took longer than expected (Charlie had to wait for me while I plodded slowly uphill, stopping often to catch my breath).

    Our first town was Bellagio. Turns out the famous Las Vegas hotel was named after this town because the resort's designer loved this town. Like Varenna, Bellagio was built below a medieval fortress, and also has villas owned by the ultra-wealthy, including the Rockefellers. We strolled the harborfront, and visited a lovely church (San Giacomo).

    The next (and last town) was Menaggio, where we had a tasty lunch of authentic Italian food, including homeade pasta. We trudged up the steep-stepped lanes to the medieval heart of the town, with its own castle (closed!). We enjoyed the artwork and design of another beautiful medieval church, St. Stefano. Another gorgeous boat ride on the lake and we were back to Varenna.    Les mer

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  • Martha SleutelItaly & SwitzerlandMartha Sleutel
    Long dresses with tube or stapless tops was common
    Men in shorts, women in skirts in Bellagio3The front of the green dress had a slit up the middle to mid-thigh.This was adorable, form-fitted, intricately tailored and probably expensive.The purple dress had a single diagonal strap. Oh, BTW, bras seemed optionalTube top, flowing skirt. It was SO hot that day!Just walking around town.

    Italian fashion

    8. september 2023, Italia ⋅ ☀️ 75 °F

    I mentioned earlier the dresses women wear in the Lake Como towns, including on hikes! Some are loose sun dresses, but many are, well, night-club types, showing ample cleavage and some rather tight. Older women wear long and short dresses also, but usually looser. Often with pearls!!!!! We realized that most of the tourists to that area come from Milan (the fashion capitol). So, maybe these are typical Italian fashions?

    The men either wear TIGHT jeans, or just the usual casual clothes, including shorts.

    Below is a samping, and definitely NOT the best, just the ones where I could sneakily get photos.    Les mer

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  • Martha SleutelItaly & SwitzerlandMartha Sleutel
    At lunch, Charlie discovered that Italian coffee is A LOT stronger than US coffee!
    View of scenic trainMountains and ValleyDistinctive green glacial-fed lake with Charlie's reflectionLake with glacier above in mountainsPicturesque church down the street from our hotelInteresting building across from hotel

    Hello Switzerland!

    9. september 2023, Sveits ⋅ ☀️ 72 °F

    We left Varenna by train, and there was a scheduled diversion by bus around a track repair. While we knew in advance about the diversion, we were surprised that there were no signs or other directions when we debarked the train. After a bit of a scramble, we found the bus (go outside the station, down steps, through a tunnel to the other side of the tracks - while carrying our bags and hurrying so we didn't miss the bus). The bus dropped us off in Tirano, near the border with Italy, where we had another lovely lunch and wandered the train station area.

    Then we boarded our train to Switzerland, got settled, and - PANIC - I noticed my phone was missing. Charlie, my hero, dashed back to the restaurant and found it (THANK HEAVENS!). The train started minutes after he returned! Whew!

    The scenic train had huge windows, and great views of old Swiss towns and massive mountains. Green meadows, lakes, streams and mountains beckoned from our windows. I had not known there was a glacier here, but yep, we skirted around and beneath it. Not many pics, though, due to the reflection in the windows and the sun.

    Arrival in Pontresina was fantastic! The hotel picked us up and tended to our every need. (This is in contrast to our Varenna apartment, which was wonderful, except for a few weird things. When we ran out of toilet paper, they told us we needed to go to the grocery store to buy more. We had been allotted 2 skinny, one-ply rolls for 4 days and 3 nights. (They didn't provide kleenex or paper towels with a full kitchen, so we kinda used up the TP on other things).

    Pictures below are from our Italian lunch, the train views, and from our initial exploration of our neighborhood.    Les mer

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  • Martha SleutelItaly & SwitzerlandMartha Sleutel
    Our funicular is going up, another is going down, and there are wild ponies on the left!!!!
    We started at the town at the bottom. Best way to hike EVER!!!!Video from the top of the funicular - before our hikeView of lakes and towns belowSnowy alps and glacier at upper leftBeautiful alpine plants - purple heather and red autumn colorNature's palette of reds and bluesWe started at the white building, and traversed down to this creekMore heather and alpine plants (including blueberries - YUM)View of trail from the other side of the valley

    Muottas Muragle Panoramic Hike

    10. september 2023, Sveits ⋅ ⛅ 64 °F

    This town (Pontresina) is a hiker's paradise, and even has Switzerland's largest mountaineering school. Unlike Varenna, everyone here dresses in casual or, more commonly, athletic/hiking clothes (shorts with boots), and often carrying their ski poles. Fashionistas begone!

    We started with a funicular up the mountain (Alp Languard) to 8,100 feet (the easy way up). Photos and video show the towns of Pontresina, St. Moritz and lots of valleys, mountains, and streams.

    This panoramic hike is one of several trails at the tops of the mountains, less uphill/downhill and thus, more doable for me. This first half of the hike was above the tree line and very sunny. Some of the red plants in the pictures are blueberries with their autumn foliage!    Les mer

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  • Martha SleutelItaly & SwitzerlandMartha Sleutel
    Lake St. Moritz and its town at center
    Glacier, mountains and St. MoritzGlacier with fireweed in foregroundOur trail has a tunnel under a waterfall!!!!Closer view of glacier at end of trailOur chairlift down to our hotel in Pontresina

    2nd Half of MM Panoramic Hike

    10. september 2023, Sveits ⋅ ⛅ 63 °F

    Great views from the top of Alp Laguard. Signs showed there were mountain goats, so I expected white ones like we have. Nope, these are brown and BIG. One came crashing down the mountain - straight down - at breakneck speed. At first, I thought it was a big reddish-brown deer!

    At the end of this fairly long trail was a scenic chairlift back down to the bottom, a few blocks from our hotel. Where we rested!    Les mer

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  • Martha SleutelItaly & SwitzerlandMartha Sleutel
    Charlie at the top of the mountain
    View of lakes and snow-capped alps from the topView from the top, looking at an arriving cable carView on the way down, with oncoming cable carTunnel view through the front of funicular going downInteresting building in St. MoritzWalk along St. Moritz LakeSt. Moritz with lake in foregroundSailboat on lake with city in backgroundNotice the funicular and cable car route on the mountains behind the city

    Piz Nair (10,000 feet) & St. Moritz

    11. september 2023, Sveits ⋅ ⛅ 61 °F

    We summitted Piz Nair the easy way - by two funiculars and then a cable car! We were well above the tree line, and the mountain top had the look (to me) of a lunar landscape. Rather barren. Bicyclists rode with us in our cable car with their mountain bikes so they could ride down the trails (not for me!).

    After returning back to the valley floor, we walked around the saphire blue lake at the town of St. Moritz. Pics are below.

    If you wondered about the brilliant colors (lake and mountains), these pics are completely unedited. True colors of nature.    Les mer

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  • Martha SleutelItaly & SwitzerlandMartha Sleutel
    Pretty pink flower, unidentified
    Traditional Engadine architecture and ornamentation on walls2Decorative design on house and church tower behind itOld Engadine buildingInteresting barrel roofKath Kirche (Catholic Church) -Neo Romanesque. Bell tower dates to 1505Interior of churchChurch of St. Peter. Romanesque bell tower dates to 11002Kirche Samedan (1682) - Campanile with onion dome erected 1770

    Samedan, with Engadine Architecture

    11. september 2023, Sveits ⋅ ⛅ 61 °F

    After St. Moritz, we took the local bus to the next little town, Samedan. This tiny town has traditional Engadine architecture in their old buildings, dating back to the 1600s or earlier.

    Now that we are leaving tomorrow, I got better oriented and learned a little of the area history. This valley is wedged in the Alps between Italy and Austria. The terraced hillsides lower on the mountains are leftover from Celtic farmers centuries before Christ.

    Our picturesque Upper Engadine Valley, with its 3 towns 10 minutes apart, is like a potpourri for languages. Menus are in Italian, French, and German. Sometimes, in English. There is also an old language still spoken here, called Romansh, evolved from Latin brought here by Roman soldiers. We finally figured out what people were saying to us - Allegra and Bun Di both mean hello or good day (in Romansh).    Les mer

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  • Martha SleutelItaly & SwitzerlandMartha Sleutel
    Local train in mountain (Matterhorn) area
    Area around AndermottRainbow with train brige and road alongside the riverEntering Matterhorn area with mountain viewsMatterhorn and trainIconic Matterhorn and surrounding mountainsMountain view approaching ZermattTrain, river and mountain as we near ZermattVillage scene near Zermatt with Matterhorn above

    Glacier Express Rail to Zermatt

    12. september 2023, Sveits ⋅ ☁️ 79 °F

    This was a long day on several trains. (Yay, Swiss Travel Pass). First, we took the local train from Pontresina to St. Moritz (10 minutes). Then we got on board the Glacier Express (scenic train) to Zermatt. When we stopped in Andermott to change trains, it was raining. It rained a bit off and on the rest of the way, rewarding us with a magnificent double rainbow just as we exited a tunnel (After marvelling at the rainbow for 30 minutes as it dimmed, I found an open window between train cars where I could take a picture without reflections. The pic you see does not show the double rainbow, but it was there - just fading).

    We arrived late at our hotel, having caught glimpses of the Matterhorn and surrounding mountains as night fell.

    Three observations about the trains:

    1. School children ride the local trains to school! Like a school bus, although the children take city buses to school also. Why have school buses when you've got a great transit system?
    2. There were a LOT of people in tour groups on the scenic trains. On the regional trains, it was all individuals, a few of which were intrepid hikers and mountain bikers (with their bikes on the trains). The majority of train riders in the mountain/hiking areas seemed to be seniors, aged 55-75!
    3. Despite claims otherwise, there is no internet on any of the scenic trains so far. Hence, the radio silence from me and no responses to your messages.    Les mer

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  • Martha SleutelItaly & SwitzerlandMartha Sleutel
    Riverbank of Matter Vispa River in center of town
    Traditional mazot with stairs on outside to conserve heated space insideMazot with stone foundationTwo mazots, one with stone foundation set on stiltsAnother example showing stone base and stilts (and amazing flowers!)Me on street with mazotsUncooperative clouds and Matter Vispo RiverGondola cable cars to Matterhorn glacier - empty in the rain!Empty lifts headed to Matterhorn glacier areaAmazing Swiss chocolate creations!

    Zermatt & Matterhorn - NOT!

    13. september 2023, Sveits ⋅ 🌧 52 °F

    Zermatt lies in the shadow of the Matterhorn (at least when there is sun to cast a shadow), at 14, 690 feet. No sun today - all drizzle and gray skies. Therefore, no point in taking one of the 3 different conveyances (lifts, cog train, gondola/cable cars) up to the different glacier and Matterhorn views. Disappointing, but we explored the Swiss mountain Chalet and flower-box town in the rain instead.

    No vehicles or motorcycles are allowed in town. It was AMAZING - so quiet, even with our windows open. Even residents park their cars outside of town, and take a shuttle (little electric van) or ride their bicycles into town.. Everyone also rides e-bikes everywhere, including children, because of the hills/mountain slopes. Like all the other towns we've been to, there is a lot of construction (looks like hotels). I guess their economies must be doing well. For construction, gasoline vehicles are allowed, but otherwise, electric only for trams or delivery vehicles. Clean air, too!

    One area of town is the Hinterdorf Quarter, where narrow lanes are lined with traditional wooden buildings called mazots, built in the 16th-18th centuries. Hand-hewn from trees with foundations of local stacked stones, some buildings were set on stilts to keep rodents out so they could store grain, cheese and meat. (My cat could do that, but whatever!). The wood darkens over time, so the structures are dark brown.

    Of course, after a lovely lunch and further exploring, we HAD to visit a Swiss chocolate shop and indulge ourselves!    Les mer

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  • Martha SleutelItaly & SwitzerlandMartha Sleutel
    Our first view above the clouds as the train chugged uphill above the city
    Leaving the clouds below2Charlie and I in front of the MatterhornSo many glaciers!Closer view of glaciersGlacier flowing into valley - a sea of ice and snowDifferent view of mountains and glaciersDifferent view of flowing glacier with cloud rising from below

    Matterhorn - YES! Part 1

    14. september 2023, Sveits ⋅ ⛅ 39 °F

    We were planning to leave early this morning for Lausanne. We noticed the same gray sky, but no rain, and a few patches of blue. Yet again, no Matterhorn. We decided to take the cog train up to see if the mountains were poking their heads above the low clouds shrouding the city. Up, up, up we went in the cog train. Halfway to the top, as if conjured by magic - the mountains!

    Our final cog train destination was the Gornergrat viewing area at over 10,200 feet. The Matterhorn is nearly 15,000 feet and straddles the Swiss-Italian border. The pyramidal shape has four faces that align with the four compass points.    Les mer

  • Martha SleutelItaly & SwitzerlandMartha Sleutel
    180 degree view of mountains and glaciers
    At least 6 glaciers behind meCharlie in front of the MatterhornClouds are coming in!Me in front of the MatterhornCloser view (before it disappears)Clouds blowing over the top of the mountain and glaciersCloser viewCurtain of clouds shroud the valleyWider view as clouds thicken

    Matterhorn - YES! Part 2

    14. september 2023, Sveits ⋅ ☁️ 41 °F

    The Gornergrat viewing area had several levels, all with stunning views. The sky was brilliant blue and the sun dazzling on the bright snowy vistas. We spent over an hour at various levels, marveling. We could look down on parts of glaciers - breathtaking! We were eye level with other glaciers, and looked up for most.

    (Note: At over 10,000 feet, on the video, you can hear that I am out of breath).

    More and more clouds appeared, first wispy, then more substantial. Our time above the clouds was ending. Time go back to town and to get on the train to Lausanne.    Les mer

  • Martha SleutelItaly & SwitzerlandMartha Sleutel
    Lakeside promenade - swan in front of old hotelsStatue in front of Olympic Museum on shore of Lake Geneva

    Lausanne - Cathedral and City Scenes

    14. september 2023, Sveits ⋅ ⛅ 73 °F

    Our train arrived in Lausanne in the afternoon, leaving time to explore. On the banks of Lake Geneva, the city has hills (a lot of hills!), bridges, stairways, and twisting roads. Huffing and puffing our way up a massive hill to the cathedral, we heard organ music, and went in. It was REALLY loud. We later read that the organ is modern and has 7,000 pipes.

    Also called Notre-Dame Cathedral, it overlooks the city and is in the heart of the old town. Dating back to the 1200s as a catholic church, early protestants removed much of the original statues and decorations. The gothic interior was still beautiful. The church is the largest gothic church in Switzerland.

    On our 2nd afternoon here, we strolled along the tree-lined lakefront promendade and visited the Olympic Museum, celebrating the history of the Olympic games. (A French aristocrat devoted his life and fortune to re-starting the Olympic games in the late 1800s). Tomorrow's train destiination: Murren.    Les mer

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  • Martha SleutelItaly & SwitzerlandMartha Sleutel
    Charlie reading the signs on the outside of the castle
    Natural "moat" due to by rocky island at edge of lakeFirst and main courtyard (of 4 courtyards)1View of lake from one of many windows facing lakeThe Lord's bedroom (master of the castle) Note furnace on right, and washbasin on leftEntrance to another courtyardCellars - built on natural stone and enhanced with gothic arches dating to 11th century1Dining room - 6 century-old wooden ceiling and ginormous fireplaceView from castle window to Lausanne and Lake Geneva2View from castle grounds

    Lausanne - Chillon Castle

    15. september 2023, Sveits ⋅ ☁️ 66 °F

    Built in the 12th century, this medieval castle is on a rocky island at the edge of Lake Geneva (outskirts of Lausanne). It was continuously occupied for 800 years, although by different people and for different purposes.

    Notes about Lausanne and Switzerland:

    1. This is the French part of Switzerland. People often don't speak English, but are fluent in French, Italian and German. Menus can be a challenge. I almost didn't get a salad with "pignon", thinking it was pigeon (it's pine nuts).

    2. Even more than in Zermott, it seems like everyone smokes. We like to eat outside, but outside tables are sometimes overrun with smokers and smoke! Corners outside buildings - and just everywhere - are often heavy with the smell of smoke.

    3. Like everywhere in Switzerland, buses and trains are completely electric (97% powered by hydroelectric). Children as young as 7 ride the city buses by themselves.

    4. The city and country are gorgeous!    Les mer

  • Martha SleutelItaly & SwitzerlandMartha Sleutel
    First views (from hotel) of mountains and glaciers at Murren
    Sun on the mountainsMore sun2Same view as #1, but an hour later with sun!

    Getting to Murren

    16. september 2023, Sveits ⋅ ☁️ 59 °F

    Train travel is so nifty.
    -- Just show up at the train station 5-10 minutes before your train leaves, find your platform, and get on your train.
    -- Luggage is no problem (size, weight, extra cost, etc), except carrying it up or down steps in many train stations. There are elevators in almost all stations.
    -- Seats are wide and comfortable (often lots of empty seats). Convenient tables and plugs. Plenty of room to spread out and wide aisles to walk around in.
    -- Schedules are easy to look up on apps, and trains to different cities are frequent, sometimes every 20 minutes.

    We took multiple trains today. First, from Lausanne to Montreax, then on the Golden Pass scenic train to Interlaken ("between lakes"). Then, it got complicated.

    Today's destination was Murren, a town on a cliff. No main roads go to the town and there are few vehicles (mainly construction or maintenance or a very few 4WDs). To get there - higher in the mountains - we took a mountain train/cog train. Next was a large cable car, and then another cog train to Murren. This whole process, from Interlaken (at the valley floor) to Murren took 30 minutes. Fortunately there are restaurants, hotels and one small grocery store here. Enough for us!

    Many different lifts, cable cars, and other contraptions get people to the tops of the nearby mountains. From our hotel, we can see many glaciers. Tomorrow, we'll explore.    Les mer

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  • Martha SleutelItaly & SwitzerlandMartha Sleutel
    View at the top
    Interlaken 8,000 feet below usGlaciers, mountains and very deep gorge/valleyMe at the observation deckCharlie's view of walkway clinging to cliffsideCharlie's view through metal mesh walkwayMy view of Charlie approaching the swinging suspended part of mesh walkwayHang glider above glacial streamView of mountains near LautenbrunnenClose up of glacier with train tracks (electric) in foreground

    Schilthorn - Charlie's Scary Adventure

    17. september 2023, Sveits ⋅ ☁️ 50 °F

    The Schilthorn is one of the highest peaks in the region (9748 feet) with panoramic views of the Swiss alps. We took two cable cars to the top. There were metal mesh pathways attached to the cliff for those who wanted to be able to view the valley thousands of feet below - right under your feet. I couldn't do it - didn't even try. Or give it a 2nd thought. Hard no.

    Charlie ventured out onto the cliff edge. The photos do not AT ALL capture the depth of the valley below.

    After taking the cable car down the mountain, we went (via cable car) to another town in the valley and walked along a beautiful stream, past waterfalls to Lautenbrunnen.

    The video was taken at dinner next door to our hotel.    Les mer

  • Martha SleutelItaly & SwitzerlandMartha Sleutel
    Funicular ride inside mountain
    Chutes and waterfalls inside mountain1Thundering waterfall inside a caveSpewing through funnels and gorge of granite mountainCave tunnel offers many views of cascading, rushing waterGlacier-melt stream thunders below us - Charlie at the end of the walkwayTop of a chute/fall, looking down. Charlie on lower level (in the rain)Torrents of water surge out and downFinal waterfall spills out into sunlight2Rain clouds lift for a bit, then return later with more rainWaterfall roars down on left and rushes through chasm on right

    Trummelbach Gorge and Waterfall

    18. september 2023, Sveits ⋅ ☁️ 55 °F

    What to do on a rainy day? Go to a subterranean waterfall!

    Trummelbach Falls is a series of 10 glacier-fed waterfalls that thunder down a gorge INSIDE a mountain. Water gushes through a chasm in a mountain, erupting in multiple chutes and falls.

    As with all the sites here, getting there took 2 cable cars, and a short bus ride. Inside the waterfall tunnel, there was a funicular, bringing us halfway up. From there, we climbed multiple levels of steps and hugged the tunnel walls on flat stretches.

    Truly amazing. The most unusual waterfall we've ever seen!    Les mer

  • Martha SleutelItaly & SwitzerlandMartha Sleutel
    View from the scenic train leaving Interlaken area
    2View from scenic train enroute to Luzern2Chapel Bridge with stone water towerChapel Bridge with paintings and Jesuit Church on right2Reuss River dam with pedestrian bridge and Jesuit ChurchOther side of Chapel Bridge1Riverfront with Church of St. Leodegar in backgroundInterior of Church of St. Leodegar, from 1600s2Intricate golden altars1Main altarOrnamentation and paintings on buildings

    Luzern or Lucern

    19. september 2023, Sveits ⋅ ⛅ 68 °F

    Lovely Luzern (Swiss spelling) is nestled on the banks of the Reuss River and Lake Luzern. We arrived by train in the early afternoon, and had time to explore. Luzern has pedestrian bridges and 2 historic covered wooden bridges (Dating from the 14th and 16th centuries). Both bridges are decorated with 17 century paintings. One has a 13th century stone water tower.

    One of several medieval churches is the Church of St. Ledegar. Built in 1633 on the site of a monastery (dating from 735), it is in the Gothic and German Rennaisance architectural style. Its interior has frescoes, statues, a 16th century organ, and gold gilt altars.

    The video is one of many little medieval city squares with beautiful decorations and paintings on the buildings.

    Pics are highlights from today.    Les mer

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  • Martha SleutelItaly & SwitzerlandMartha Sleutel
    Mill Bridge, constructed in 1408. Medieval city wall behind and on right
    Original wood carvings and small chapel on bridgeCharlie and paintings on Mill BridgeMill Bridge with Chateau Gutsch in background (Queen Victoria stayed there)Medieval city wallMe walking on top of the (now restored) city wallsBeautiful ornamentation on a building (similar decorations are everywhere)Murals, paintings and decorations on old buildingsHuge fresco of bible story sceneRiverfront scene - clock tower, pretty buildings, and a swan!Painted Renaissance and medieval murals and fascades in a square with a 15th century fountain

    Luzern Day 2

    20. september 2023, Sveits ⋅ ⛅ 73 °F

    With saphire skies and cool temps, we strolled the riverfront (again), revisited the wooden bridges, and found the medieval city wall. This historic wall was part of the city fortifications. Built around 1400, there are lots of stairs up and down, amazing city views, and 9 towers, including a clock tower.

    At one point on the wall, we crossed paths with a large group of older folks, all Swiss, who seemed to be our age or older. We began talking and they explained that they live here and walk together every week. Today, their walk included the medieval city wall. How great to have a choice of mountains, lakes, rivers, or historical paths to walk!!!

    The Rosengart Art Collection is one block from our hotel, so we ventured over in the afternoon. Charlie had mentioned it having mostly Picassos, so I had no big expectations. Holy moly! What a collection! Two floors of Picasso's work, plus some Monet, Chagall, Renoir, Matisse, Pissarro, Klee, and others.

    I particularly enjoyed a video explaining the origen of this private collection (donated by an art dealer and collector who knew the artists personally. Some of Picasso's sketches/paintings are of her as a young woman).

    This is our last day in Switzerland, so we indulged with more Swiss chocolate (dark with nuts, of course)!

    Views are of Mill Bridge, the city wall, and other city scenes.    Les mer

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  • Martha SleutelItaly & SwitzerlandMartha Sleutel
    The Duomo with gray skies and drizzle
    Charlie amidst the first level of elaborately carved rooftop sculpturesView from lower roof upwardsEach of the 135 spires is topped with a saint, all differentPointed arches, pinnacles, flames, saints - all marbleThese carvings took 600 yearsMe amidst the marble stone statuaryCopies and original statues in museumRoom after room after room of detailed sculpturesMary Magdalene

    Milan Duomo Rooftop

    22. september 2023, Italia ⋅ 🌧 66 °F

    The Duomo di Milan is the 3rd largest church in Europe, started in 1386. Carved from panels of green, pink, and white marble, it is the city's iconic landmark. Ascending several levels of rooftop allowed us into and above a forest of spires, statues, and splendid sculptures. (There are 3,400 statues).

    The roof with all its glorious statues, spires, and gothic architecture is open to the public via narrow stone steps (made for the workers and stone carvers) and a lift. Despite drizzle and some blocked off areas (cleaning the marble), the roof views were dramatic and impressive.

    The Duomo museum (next door) has originals and copies of hundreds of statues, stained glass panels, and room-sized tapestries. Seeing them up close was amazing.    Les mer

  • Martha SleutelItaly & SwitzerlandMartha Sleutel
    1Stained glass and carved statues throughout
    One of several rose windows1Baroque altar. Floor is 3 types of inlaid marble, designed in 16th centuryMore carvings and stained glass1Baroque altar on left. Paintings, pillars, and magnificent stained glassDomed tabernacle at alter - Napolean crowned himself King hereRose window52 carved pillars along 500 foot-long naveHalf circle view videoOne of 5 brass doors constructed in 1582Ancient 8-sided baptistry and floor decorations beneath the Duomo

    Milan Duomo

    22. september 2023, Italia ⋅ 🌧 68 °F

    Milan's historic church is immense with a gothic-style interior of 52 massive pillars to support a pointed arch ceiling.

    Archeological ruins show that this site has been used for sacred purposes for 2000 years. Below the church (open to the public) are foundations of previous churches, including mosaics, and artifacts from AD 313.

    Milan itself is a big, bustling, crowded city. The metro is a highly efficient people mover, even if really crowded. Just as on our arrival, the train/metro station was like an ant mound that someone kicked - packed with busy swarms of people. On to Verona and Venice tommorrow.    Les mer

    Se oversettelse
  • Martha SleutelItaly & SwitzerlandMartha Sleutel
    Ancient Roman arena, pink marble from 1st century
    Another view of arena with tacky signage and barriersCharlie outside of Roman areanRoads and sidewalks are really made from pink marble!!!!Porta Barsari - main entrance to Roman Verona (under construction, of course!). Note marble road.1Piazza Erbe - Roman towers and columns. Market in progress2Street scene with arches and 14th century building114th century gothic tombs of wealthy family. Fence is original!1Romanesque porch with carvings on Duomo building

    Verona

    23. september 2023, Italia ⋅ ☀️ 75 °F

    Verona has lots of Roman ruins, so we stopped there enroute to Venice.

     -- What we expected: Idyllic strolls through historic piazzas and churches, along quaint picturesque streets.

     -- What we got: Throngs of tour groups and crowds of tourists, and a confusinng maze of medieval streets. (And ancient ruins and picturesque streets).

    Leaving the train station, we took a city bus to the old town area. We mistakenly thought that we'd be able to navigate an unfamiliar bus system in another language. Silly us! We got where we wanted just fine, though; and viewed some sites (along with a million other people). I was amazed that many of the streets and most sidewalks in old town were made of pink marble! Marble streets? I can't get over that. The Roman arena is the 3rd largest in Italy, also made of pink marble. All of it!

    Lunch was amazing - traditional Italian food, unhurried atmosphere, linger-worthy. After viewing more sites, we tired of the crowds and needed to take the bus back to the train station to catch our 2:20 train to Venice. Then it got tricky.

    Long story short, we walked part-way back, never seeing a bus. We finally found a main bus area with a lot of bus stops. However, buses either didn't stop or were not headed to the train station. After trying several bus stops, and asking several Italians, we finally found the magic bus stop going to the train station. But not in time for our train. So we left an hour late, and arrived to more crowds in Venice!

    All good, though. We got our vaporetto (water bus) to our apartment and got settled. Whew!    Les mer

  • Martha SleutelItaly & SwitzerlandMartha Sleutel
    Venice Grand Canal with boats and domed cathedral
    Rialto Bridge on Grand Canal with gondola and boatsScene on Grand CanalSmall side canal with small bridgeGondola on Grand CanalRialto BridgeFirst room of Accademia (with Charlie) - the room itself is a masterpieceAnother view of Accademia Art MuseumInterior of church. Extensive detaiiled decorations on ceiling and walls2On the vaporetto together

    Venice, Day 1

    24. september 2023, Italia ⋅ ☀️ 73 °F

    After stocking up on groceries, we traversed the Grand Canal on Venice's mass transportation, the vaporettos (water buses).

    The Accademia is Venice's top art museum, and even the building was impressive! The Accademia features art, mostly religious, from the middle ages to the 1700s. Statues, alterpieces, religious icons, and scenes of medieval Venice - some encompassing entire walls.

    On our way back to our apartment, we popped into a church, and the interior was breathtaking. In both the museum and church, we were struck by the jaw-dropping, decadent wealth of earlier eras. The photos of both really can't capture the opulence, detail, and artistry.

    In the late afternoon, we met Laura and Chad at the bus station, coming from their flight from London. What fun! We wandered the streets and back canals together, then had a lovely dinner. We picked up assorted sweets for sampling, and headed back to the apartment. Great day!    Les mer

  • Martha SleutelItaly & SwitzerlandMartha Sleutel
    1On the train to Padua
    Laura and Chad with Renaissance ceiling of indoor marketBasilica of St. AnthonyBeautiful ceiling, floor, and columns of basilicaVaulted arches, statues, wall carvings and frescos - amazing!1Side chapel1Waiting to go into Scrovegni ChapelLaura and Chad with wall panels at Scrovegni ChapelCharlie admires chapel interior2The Last Judgment - Heaven on left, hell on right (including a Pope in Hell!)

    Venice, Day 2-3

    26. september 2023, Italia ⋅ ☀️ 81 °F

    We've been having fun exploring Venice, and today we took a train to Padua. We walked all over town all day (stopping at bakery and snack shops at intervals).

    First stop - the famous Market Square. The Renaissance building was fun in and of itself, but we really enjoyed getting yummy cheeses and meats (for snacks in our apartment later).

    Next stop was the Basilica of St. Anthony, a gothic and Romanesque church dating from 1231. We loved the gorgeous interior. WOW!

    Last, was the Scrovegni Chapel, built in the 1300s by a son to buy penance to save a father's soul. Stunning frescos recount religious stories, from Jesus' grandparents to Christ's betrayal and the Last Judgment.

    The pics just don't capture the grandeur and scale!    Les mer

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