• Martha Sleutel
Nuværende
  • Martha Sleutel

Spain 2025-2026

A mid-winter trip to iconic landmarks and World Heritage Sites in Barcelona, Granada, Cordoba, Seville, Ronda, and Madrid. Læs mere
  • Sidst set i
    🇪🇸 Toledo, Spain

    Last Day in Toledo

    7. januar, Spanien ⋅ ⛅ 46 °F

    We were not really interested in seeing any more cathedrals UNTIL we read about the Toledo Cathedral. Toledo has one of Europe's most magnificent cathedrals, considered a 13th century High Gothic masterpiece. Built over the site of a mosque, it is unusually wide, with 5 naves (they wanted to cover the entire mosque space). After reading this, we thought, "Well, I guess we should go". The descriptions were not wrong.

    Charlie marveled that the sacristy ceiling was good competition for the Sistene Chapel. The High Altar is 80 feet tall and made of real gold on wood (27 stone carvers, architects, painters and goldsmiths worked on it for 7 years). There are other unique features, like the Transparente, a 2nd baroque altarpiece behind the gold 5 story one. An oculus (a hole cut into the ceiling) allows the sun to shine a beam of light on the alter during the summer solstice. But it isn't ANY hole. It's a tiny bit decorated. See pics for more info.

    After lunch, we caught up on more sites to end our day in Toledo. Tomorrow Madrid.
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  • Toledo

    6. januar, Spanien ⋅ 🌙 34 °F

    We traveled by train to Toledo with a change in Madrid. Traveling on January 6, a national holiday, is like flying out of DFW before Thanksgiving (train station packed). Unknown to us, there were 2 trains headed to Madrid within minutes of each other and on the same track/platform. Naturally, we got on the wrong one! Not a problem, except that both trains were almost completely full and our seats were assigned on a different train. It was a bit of a scramble finding seats, but all went well.

    Upon arrival in Toledo, we marveled at the small train station, built in the early 1900s in the Mudejar style to match the city's landmarks. Colorful, intricate tilework and the Moorish design... Impressive .

    Our trip will be very cold from here on out, according to forecasts. We ventured into the cold to get our bearings and see a few sites before dark. See pics.
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  • Last Day in Cordoba - The Mezquita

    5. januar, Spanien ⋅ 🌧 55 °F

    The Mezquita (mosque in Arabic) is a humongous structure. A mosque in the 8th-12th century, it has a forest of 800 red and blue columns topped with red and white double arches. It was converted to a Catholic cathedral (built inside the square mosque) in 1286. The original mosque was much brighter, but Christians closed the arched entrances to the patio and street. It is larger than 4 football fields!

    Pics are of the Mezquita and a few scenes around Cordoba. Turn the volume up enough to hear my narration in the short videos.

    Side note: There were celebrations and parades in the street earlier today for Reyes (Kings) Day. The 3 kings in the parade toss candy into the crowd. Tonight (I guess like Santa?), they leave presents. Similar to Mardi Gras, there is a King cake with a plastic king inside. Tonight, there are massive crowds (families with kids) headed toward parades. Tomorrow is the official national Reyes holiday and people are off work.
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  • Cordoba

    4. januar, Spanien ⋅ 🌧 55 °F

    We just love European trains! Our high speed train got us from Sevilla to Cordoba in about 40 minutes. Comfortable and easy (even though the train was full).

    Arriving too early to check into our hotel, we spent most of the day roaming the town and getting our bearings. Like the last 5 days (and a few in Barcelona), we had some drizzle and gray skies. We walked to the other side of the river for lunch, and, on our way back, we saw a really large Eurasian river otter and Spain's native gray heron, a huge bird. (The heron seemed to be chasing the otter away from it's fishing area, because the otter immediately dove and swam away as the heron approached).

    Pics show a few of the sights.

    Fun fact - the "C" on a faucet does not mean "Cold". It means Caliente or hot.
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  • Last Day in Sevilla

    3. januar, Spanien ⋅ 🌧 55 °F

    We headed to the Triano waterfront area on other side of Sevilla's scenic river, the Guadalquivir. We strolled through an artesan market, then went to the ceramic museum about the area's tile, ceramic, and pottery production and artistry. We mostly saw colorful, intricately painted tiles, but the only photo I took was of a modern vase (not representative, but a beauty!).

    Walking along the riverfront, we came upon a replica of the Nao Victoria, the first boat to circumnavigate the world. The museum describes the epic journey of Magellan and Elcano, who left this spot in Sevilla in 1519 with 5 ships. Magellan died during the voyage, but Elcano finished the journey with this ship, the smallest and only one to complete the voyage. Thus, it was Elcano who first sailed around the world, and not Magellan, who we all learned about in school. So why have we never heard of him? Poor Elcano died of scurvy on another voyage a few years later. An interesting serendipitous glimpse into history that happened here.

    On to Cordoba via train tomorrow.
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  • Sevilla Cathedral Alcazar (Palace/Fort)

    2. januar, Spanien ⋅ ☁️ 57 °F

    The largest church in Spain and 3rd largest in Europe, the Sevilla Cathedral has Christopher Columbus' tomb. It also has a massive footprint and A LOT of gold. The exterior is square (filling the site of a former mosque). We climbed the tower (36 ramps) to the bell tower (26 bells, which thankfully did not ring while we were there). Why ramps and not steps? It was originally a mosque minaret, and was designed so a donkey could climb the ramps and its rider could give the Muslim call to prayer 5 times a day.

    In the afternoon, we explored the Royal Alcazar, palace for Muslim rulers (10th century), and then the Christian king and Spanish rulers (14th century to current). This place is enormous. As we wandered, we had a heck of a time finding our way out. As if the interior were not labyrinthian enough, the 30 or so gardens are interconnected and immense. Another place to get lost, which we did!
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  • Sevilla

    1. januar, Spanien ⋅ ☁️ 55 °F

    Driving to Sevilla (Seville) and turning in the rental car was a breeze, thankfully.

    After a late lunch, we ventured to the Plaza de Espana, the site of the 1929 World Fair. A grand semi-circular structure blends Moorish, Renaissance, and Baroque styles with 48 mosaic tiled alcoves/benches representing each province. The alcoves are a ceramic encyclopedia with map, coat of arms, history, and art. Two towers flank the central building and there is a canal with bridges. Since the plaza is so large, photos really can't capture it. Charlie and I enjoyed browsing the visual feast of each of the 48 mosaic alcoves.

    We ended our day with a Flaminco Dance show of 2 singers, a guitarist, and 2 dancers. Enchanting. Riveting. Bewitching. Words can't really capture the experience. Each dance alternated provocative slow with fast, all while tapping rhythms with feet, finger snaps, thigh slaps, clapping, and castanedas. Dance movements had slow stalking/walking, and explosive frenetic action. While standing still, dancers could create a beat while their feet seemed still. When the male and female danced together, it was synchonized sensuality. Her castenedas beat a suspenseful rhythm while her wrists, hands, and arms twisted and beckoned. Like a bull and matador, both stalked, retreated, circled, attacked, retreated.

    The singers (to me) sounded like a cross between a Muslim call to prayer and yodeling. Clearly, I can't appreciate the singing, if you could call it that. Meanwhile, the guitarist's fingers blurred with motion for the entire hour with intricate, dynamic, lively Spanish guitar music. No photos or videos were allowed, except for a very short (and not representative) sample demo at the end.
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  • New Year's Eve in Arcos de la Frontera

    31. december 2025, Spanien ⋅ ☁️ 54 °F

    Feliz ano nuevo! (Happy NY!) Felices fiestas! (Happy holidays).

    Since it is NYE, we are staying off the roads and having a relaxing day in this small town. After getting supplies at the local (small) grocery store (1/2 mile down at the bottom of the hill from our hotel), we wandered Old Town at the tippy top of the hillside (1/2 mile uphill from our hotel). Old Town is old, with buildings dating to the 13th - 14th centuries. While these old buildings are picturesque, they are mixed in with some smaller, worn (read unattractive) somewhat dilapidated structures. Thus, few photos. The narrow, twisted cobblestone paths and streets add a dose of quaintness.

    In the 1200's, Arcos was invaded and the Moors evicted. The Church of Santa Maria was built atop a mosque. In the photos, note the chopped off bell tower because the original fell off in an earthquake in 1755. Pictures below show this church and the Church of San Pedro (built on the foundation of a 12 - 14th century Moorish fortress. Of course!).

    Back at our hotel in the afternoon, we found a wonderful NYE present of chocolates and cava (Spanish champagne) from the hotel!

    Turns out there are street parties in Old Town tonight. We ventured out at 6 PM and found streets blocked by lively crowds of young people dressed up, dancing and drinking (see videos). We asked about the drinking age, and were told it is usually 18, but no one will check tonight!

    Tomorrow, we drive to Seville and turn in our rental car.
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  • Pileta Cave and Arco de la Frontera

    30. december 2025, Spanien ⋅ ☁️ 50 °F

    Leaving our cliffside town of Ronda, we drove 12 twisty, winding miles to visit the Pileta Cave. The cave was high up the mountain, so we climbed innumerable uneven stone steps, huffing our way to the top. Inside the cave was more uneven ground (wet) and more steps.

    The group was all Spanish-speaking except us, and the guide offered 2 sentences of heavily accented, rapid fire English for every 300 sentences in Spanish. No matter. We'd read about the cave and much of it was repeating what we'd read. On the walls were cave paintings by prehistoric people up to 30,000 years ago. The majority of the cave (where most of the paintings are) is not open to the public. In addition to some stick figures of animals, there were quite a few calendars (just black lines in groupings), including fertility calendars of 10 lunar months (9 calendar).

    Onward to Arco de la Frontera, where we'll stay 2 nights. Charlie wanted to take the scenic route, which turned out to be over and around mountains and hills; winding, twisting, and driving on perilously narrow roads, mostly 15-20 mph. He decided that the more direct and faster route was actually more scenic because, while it was also through winding hills and mountains, it had wider roads so he could actually look at the scenery!

    Like all the other cliffside towns, Arcos has an old and new town. Also like other cliffside towns, walking is either steeply uphill or steeply downhill on narrow cobblestone streets! We strolled through old town at dusk, noticing that many buildings are dated to the 1500s. More exploring tomorrow.
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  • Another White Hill Town

    29. december 2025, Spanien ⋅ ⛅ 50 °F

    We wandered through Ronda's old Town in the morning, and were impressed with their Arabic baths. They used ingeneous engineering to pump water from the nearby river and heat it and the buildings. There is an Old Bridge (Puente Viejo), still in use, over the river (built 1616). The tall one near our hotel is the new bridge (Puente Nuevo), built in 1759. Apparently, there was an earlier new bridge that collapsed after 7 years. Oopsie.

    Another White Hill town is Setenil De Las Bodegas, at the gorge of the Trejo River, where homes and businesses were built into natural caves in the cliffsides. There is a rich Muslim history, including numerous failed attempts by Catholic monarchs to invade it. The name, Setenil, derives from the 7 most notable invasion attempts (septum nihil, from latin, meaning 7 times 0)

    Back at Ronda, we strolled a bit more before heading back to our room. Tomorrow, enroute to our next stop, Arcos de la Frontera, we see the Pileta Cave paintings, 30,000 years old.
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  • Nerja and Ronda

    28. december 2025, Spanien ⋅ ⛅ 45 °F

    We woke to drenching rain and 40 degrees, making us a bit damp getting to the rental car place. Our mid day destination was the beach town of Nerja, and surprisingly, after crossing the Sierra Nevada mountain range, the clouds lifted. Fifty degrees felt like a heat wave as we walked around. Nerja has old world charm and a beach viewpoint named, "The Balcony of Europe". We had a yummy lunch overlooking the Mediterranean.

    We drove through more mountains to the cliffside town of Ronda, which you might recognize from screensaver images. The town straddles a deep gorge and has a Moorish Old Town. Our hotel perches on the cliff and our balcony overlooks the valley and town. It was a former palace of a 17th century Count. We love the Old World ambiance and the view, but we'd like a few more electrical outlets!
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  • Last day in Granada

    27. december 2025, Spanien ⋅ ☁️ 48 °F

    We explored Old Town a bit, wandering the narrow cobblestone streets. We went to the Granada Cathedral, the 2nd largest in Spain. As is typical with Granada's churches, they destroyed the existing mosque to built this cathedral in the 1500s. The exterior design in front is even based on a triumphal arch!

    In the main plaza, a huge statue shows Queen Isabel with Columbus unfurling his contract to find the East Indies (and be paid). In another plaza, Flaminco dancers entertained (not sure why the singer was so close to her, but whatever....).

    At dusk, we trekked up (and up and up) the winding cobblestone street to a high vantage point to see the Alhambra across the valley. It looked beautiful after dark with the lights on. Tomorrow , we rent a car and drive to our next stop, Ronda, the cliffside city.
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  • Granada, # 2 cont - Alhambra Fort & More

    26.–31. dec. 2025, Spanien ⋅ ☁️ 41 °F

    Alhambra, Part 2. This post has some remaining bits and pieces about the Alhambra complex.

    The Alcazaba (original "red castle" fort) is the oldest and most ruined part of the Alhambra. Napolean (much later) stationed his troops here, thus the ruin. In the 11th - 13th centuries, the fort defended a town of 2000 muslims living within the old city walls.

    The Charles V Palace was designed by a student of Michelangelo, so it is a round arena with quartz columns in a Roman style, inserted within the existing square Moorish building!

    The final pics were quite a novelty! The Alhambra and Alcazaba water supply was from old Roman aqueducts that continue to sustain the pools and gurgling fountains. On the stone stairs leading away from the summer palace, we noticed that the stair banisters are waterways from the aqueduct and supply the fountains on each stair landing! How cool is THAT?
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  • Granada, Day # 2 - Palaces at Alhambra

    26. december 2025, Spanien ⋅ ☁️ 43 °F

    High on a hillside, the Alhambra is a grand and sprawling Moorish Palace, a complex of buildings and one of Europe's top sights. (8000 people a day visit!).

    Fun fact: Christopher Columbus met the King and Queen here in 1492 to get approval and financing for his voyages. The Catholic monarchs had just conquered the area and moved into the palaces of the former Islamic kingdom.

    The ornate, heavily decorated 14th century Palacios Nazaries have royal offices and ceremonial rooms, all adjoined by courtyards and gardens. The elaborate walls and doorways are made of CARVED stone details which are actually arabic script - poetry and religious verses - but carved in stone on the walls!
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  • Granada, day # 1

    25. december 2025, Spanien ⋅ ☀️ 45 °F

    Granada is a charming medieval town with a rich history dating 2000 years. It was a powerhouse Islamic kingdom and the grandest city in Spain in the 11th-13th centuries. In late 1400s, Catholic Monarchs conquered and Christianized it (expelling or executing Muslims and Jews and converting mosques to churches). Granada is famous for magnificent Moorish architecture, especially the famous Alhambra palace/fortress of the Moorish Kingdom.

    Old Town, where we are staying, is a labyrinth of twisting cobblestone streets and innumerable plazas with fountains and statues, nestled in the foothills of the Spanish Sierra Nevadas. Despite being Christmas AND cold (high's in the low 40's), the town is bustling with crowds of people and families (like Barcelona was, especially at night).

    Our hotel is a lovely mediterranean style/adobe complex of rooms, each with a large, private garden patio. We did have a bathroom mystery (What is it? It isn't a bidet. It looks like a toilet bowl with a downward facing spigot and a stopper). We needed counter space, so Charlie solved that problem. In the evening, we wandered Old Town a bit, so below are a few pics. Tomorrow we explore the Alhambra.
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  • Last Day in Barcelona!

    24. december 2025, Spanien ⋅ ☁️ 52 °F

    We explored a lot this sunny, windy, chilly day! We started by walking down the Ramblas to the lovely waterfront. The Columbus monument honors Italian Christopher Columbus, who set sail 4 times from Spain to America, and returned triumphantly to this harbor in 1493.

    From there, we took the Metro to see the Sagrada Familia, Gaudi's unfinished grand masterpiece. Gaudi labored on the Sagrada Familia for 43 years until his death in 1926. Generations of designers, architects, and sculptors continue his vision.

    This massive unfinished church is a modern take on Gothic architecture. Pillars are designed to look like massive tree trunks that blossom into branches and leaves. Light filtering through the stained glass windows splash color throughout the interior. The exterior has giant sculptures depicting Christ's life from birth to resurrection.

    There are 4 tall towers, with more to come, at 400 to 550 feet (will be the World's tallest church). We took the elevator to the top of the tallest to view the city and rooftop of the church. Down? No elevator. A tiny spiral staircase of more than 400 steps.

    Tomorrow, we are off to Granada!
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  • Palace and Barcelona Cathedral

    23. december 2025, Spanien ⋅ 🌧 46 °F

    The Palace of Catalon Music should be called the Palace of Architectural Wonder. Built in 1908, this music hall boasts elaborate stone carvings, more stained glass than most churches, and a kaleidoscope glass dome.

    Despite the cold, dreary, rainy day, walks around town were fairly short and interesting. Visiting the Barcelon Cathedral kept us dry and warm. We found a tapas restaurant favored by locals with very authentic Catalan food. Communication was a challenge since they were not accustomed to tourists. We both speak some Spanish, but menu items, especially in Catalan, are not our forte!

    Last stop was a tour of the Picasso Museum. We liked his portraits and landscapes. Cubism, not so much. Walking around this area revealed old Roman columns, ruins of an aqueduct, and parts of Barcelona's medieval city gates and walls. Stepping back into current times, we browsed a Christmas market before heading back to our hotel.
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  • Famous Gaudi Works

    22. december 2025, Spanien ⋅ ☁️ 46 °F

    Antonio Gaudi is Spain's most famous architect, known for his modernistic style blending elements from nature. We toured 2 of his buildings today, Casa Batlio and Casa Mila. Pics and videos of each are below

    We followed that with a walk to Park Guell, a Gaudi designed complex of structures and gardens overlooking the city. Notice views of Gaudi's most famous structure, the Basilica de Sagrada Familia.
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  • Barcelona

    21. december 2025, Spanien ⋅ ☁️ 57 °F

    Charlie sure picked a treasure with our Barcelona hotel. Perfectly located around the corner from Placa (Plaza) Catalunya, described as the Central park of Barcelona. Cheerful Christmas lights and music, plus the location where the direct airport bus stops! Since our hotel is along the famous Rambles so we braved the cold to explore. The Rambles is lined with interesting old buildings, shops, and restaurants.

    The buildings seem drab, despite interesting 17th and 18th century architecture. The wrought iron balconies remind me of New Orleans, and the carved stonework and columns must be 17th century.

    Despite construction, throngs of locals and tourists amble along this street. Beautiful XM lights illuminate all the streets and we plan to enjoy the many restaurants and bakeries! However, we are noticing crowds of people (perhaps throngs of XM shoppers), massive #s of pigeons, and too many smokers!
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    Start på rejsen
    20. december 2025