Cambodia

november 2024
  • Mary Kieran Gap Year
Een 13-daags avontuur van Mary Kieran Gap Year Meer informatie
  • Mary Kieran Gap Year

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  • Cambodja Cambodja
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Backpacken, Bus, Koopel, Cultuur, Wildernis
  • 634afgelegde kilometers
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  • 10Footprints
  • 13dagen
  • 150foto’s
  • 33Likes
  • Day 302-304: Kampot Sickness

    9 november 2024, Cambodja ⋅ ☁️ 86 °F

    When researching and planning Gap Year, we tried to split up country research to share the burden. For Asia, Mary was most excited for Japan, Korea, Taiwan, Philippines, Vietnam, and Singapore which means Kieran would handle the remaining countries (Cambodia, Laos, Thailand, Indonesia, Australia, US Ski Trip). We would both do New Zealand.

    Of course the problem is that our trip was front loaded with Mary’s countries. This is probably the reason why after arriving to Cambodia, Mary’s body decided to shutdown…

    We started with a 4:30am bus ride for 7 hours to Phnom Penh and then 4 more house to Kampot; we had a small break in between for soup and coffee. Kieran had amazing days planned to include waterfall hopping, kayaking, and partying at a hostel with water slides/diving platforms. We arrive around 9pm and go to bed.

    Kieran woke up to watch a Ravens football game and Mary wasn’t feeling great (body chills, sweating, fever, muscle fatigue, soar throat, no appetite). She got progressively worse as the game went on, with a fever jumping from 100.2 to 101.6 in the second game half. Overthinking (but not really) we considered malaria based on how quickly the symptoms developed and the locations we have been in the last few weeks. Kieran went to get lunch and the hostel owner noted it could be dengu fever and recommended a clinic downtown should we need it.

    Well the fever rapidly hit 102.2 so we tuk tuk’d downtown to Kampot to get tested for dengu, parasites, and malaria. The results which were negative. Grabbed some fever reducer and headed home to watch for new symptoms (blanky time activated). Really bad chills with high fever throughout the night and the fever peaked at 102.6 even with the reducer.

    Luckily the fever broke back down to 101 on Saturday, but she slept all day. Kieran spent his time playing Mario, checking temperature, forcing a non-hungry person to eat something, and hanging out outside.

    It was disappointing to not truly enjoy Kampot, but we were lucky that no one else stayed in our hostel room. More adventure to come the next day anyway 🤒 here are some lack luster pictures of our food and stay lol

    Hostel: Acadia Backpackers Kampot

    Food:
    Tom Yum

    Spots:
    Kampot
    Meer informatie

  • Day 305: Journey to Koh Rong

    10 november 2024, Cambodja ⋅ ☁️ 84 °F

    Day number 3 of the sickness, the fever is gone but Mary still has a very sore throat, headache, eye socket pain, and tired (still no coughing as a symptom). However she’s eating more than before and is able to stay awake. There was no more room at the hostel because 20 people would be arriving and we needed to get to our next destination anyway (2 hour drive and 40 minute boat ride).

    Our next destination is Koh Rong which is the second largest island in Cambodia and apparently several seasons of Survivor have been filmed there. Kieran planned for beaches and paradise, which was probably a good thing in the long run (less people outside, UV rays to kill germs, more rest).

    We go for a crazy drive in a van where the
    vehicle is practically off-roading and the air conditioning is non-existent. We survive and make it to the ferry station where air conditioning is blasting, but large groups of Brits keep opening the door. Luckily they all get on a different boat than the one taking us to Koh Rong. 😷😷

    After arriving, we ride one more tuk tuk and split it with a French couple who were going to the Long Beach island side as well. This tuk tuk ride was insane and we swore it was going to flip over. Attempted to take in the scenery as best as we could while holding on for our lives.

    After arriving to our awesome little hotel (nice work Kieran) we pumped up the A/C to recover. Close to 5:30pm, ate dinner at a spot with beach tables and a nice view of the sunset. The water was nice and warm so we stuck our feet in the sand.

    By the end of the day, there is less of a headache and less fatigue overall. We had a pleasant evening playing video games and watching Ozark until Mary decided to cough up phlegm to see if she can stop her throat from hurting. Well she does…and there’s blood in it! YAY LUNG / THROAT INFECTION 🫁🫁🎉🎉🥳😍🤒

    We make a plan to go to a doctor depending if the symptoms worsen.

    Hotel: Sok San Villa

    Food:
    Squid and shrimp salad
    Squid and shrimp pad Thai

    Spots:
    Sihanoukville
    Koh Rung
    Meer informatie

  • Day 306: Long Beach Paradise

    11 november 2024, Cambodja ⋅ ☁️ 82 °F

    Positive update on health: back to full strength, no more headache, still have a sore throat but substantially less blood in the phlegm.

    We execute our plan to kill the rest of the infection with UV rays and ocean water (don’t worry guys, we don’t believe this actually works). We start with some tea for breakfast and run to the beach to rent umbrellas and chairs for shade. We nabbed a perfect spot away from everyone and spent the day frolicking in the water, hiding in the shade, and re-applying sunscreen as often as possible. We also caught sand dollars.

    The water is so clear and warm and the sand soft and white; the Caribbean has some competition. Visited an Italian pizzeria for lunch where a grand mother and her son moved to Cambodia from Italy and make authentic pizza. It was so weird and funny to us because here we are eating authentic Italian while staring at a perfect white sand beach and listening to jazz Christmas music. There are lots of little puppies, chickens, ducks, and kittens in this village to say hello to as well.

    We continue to relax at our beach spot and run into the water once the sun starts setting so we could swim for 2+ hours without frying. Watching the sunset from the water was mesmerizing; it was a perfect little day after so much sickness and missing real arrives the last four days.

    Food:
    Pizza
    Barracuda
    Curry fish

    Spots:
    Long Beach
    Meer informatie

  • Day 307: More Beach

    12 november 2024, Cambodja ⋅ ☀️ 84 °F

    We had such a good time relaxing and beaching we decided to stay one more night.

    Started our day hiking to a waterfall and rock scrambling around to find beer cans/trash. Was worried about snakes but was surprised when the only animal we ran into was a crab. A crab on a waterfall.

    For the beach, instead of renting two chairs and an umbrella, we set up shop at a restaurant and ordered coffee, drinks, and food for like 4 hours while we swam below; got to swim and frolic during one last sunset.

    Spot:
    Koh Rong
    Meer informatie

  • Day 308: Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum

    13 november 2024, Cambodja ⋅ ☀️ 88 °F

    Another sad military history day, sorry folks. Today we visited the Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum.

    To recap the same old Cold War Story communist domino effect story, Cambodia was under French and then Japanese occupation until WWII ended. The King of Cambodia wanted 100% neutrality in the Cold War, yet he allowed North Vietnamese and Chinese communist troops to use Cambodian land to attack South Vietnam. The US didn’t take too kindly and of course bombed Cambodia, leading to instability.

    In 1970, a US led coup ousted this pro-Soviet/pro-communist government. However, Vietnamese and Cambodian communist rebels began to gain popularity and eventually overthrew the US installed government with a direct request to North Vietnam for help; the communist rebels would become the Khmer Rouge and run the Cambodian government from 1975 - 1978.

    The Khmer Rouge committed horrible acts and genocide against the Cambodian people as well as foreigners. The estimate is 2 million people, mostly ethnic Khmer people as well as professionals like doctors, scientists, and teachers as well as Muslims. This group was so paranoid that they would imprison their own government members and people who participated in torture if they got suspicious. Ironically this government was ousted after Soviet Vietnam invaded Cambodia in 1978.

    Cambodia would not recover until 1991 after several economic sanctions against Vietnam and UN involvement. After all that trouble, they re-instated the same King who worked with North Vietnam back in the 1960s…luckily, many of the Khmer Rouge war criminals were processed and held accountable in tribunals in Cambodia.

    Our visit today focused on Security Prison 21 which was converted into a museum. It’s estimated 18,133 people were killed at the prison or were directly taken to the Killing Fields where 1.3 million Cambodians were killed and buried. Before it was a prison, it was a school and classroom; it was eerie how the black and white floor tiling and building structure mimicked any normal school.

    This day was extremely impactful because this time in Cambodia is fresh in everyone’s mind and the anger is still felt today. Every local we spoke to for an extended time would eventually bring it up and we were 100% uneducated on the subject.

    Some locals we spoke to are upset at the loss of doctors, teachers, and scientists and feel it put Cambodia behind economically. Others talked about how they lost direct family members or how their family would work within the Khmer Rouge to protect themselves. Apparently 95% of Khmer Buddhist temples were also destroyed, which makes Angkor Wat all the more special.

    There was an option to visit the Killing Fields museum, but we had reached our limit because the content was extremely detailed, graphic, and direct. Spent several minutes crying in the memorial park, but also discussing more recent events like the War in Ukraine and Israel’s current genocide in Gaza.

    It’s frustrating that humanity can’t seem to progress forward or that preparing for future wars / invasions takes precedent over stopping current human suffering today and now. How do you even stop a genocidal regime without more killing, invading, or directly bombing those civilian population centers? Japan and Germany committed atrocities in WWII and it did not stop until atrocities / invasion was enacted against them. Sad to say, we left the museum with a darker outlook towards humanity and progress.

    However, will end with a quote that the museum used to close out the audio tour; this quote meant a lot to us. It was spoken by German ambassador Joachim Baron von Marschall at the Inauguration Ceremony of the Memorial in Remembrance of the Victims of the Khmer Rouge Regime. Speaking on the museum, he said:

    “It reminds us to be wary of people and regimes which ignore human dignity. No political goal or ideology, no matter how promising, important or desirable it might appear, can ever justify a political system in which the dignity of the individual is not respected.”

    Food:
    Depression noodles
    Depression dumplings

    Spots:
    Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum
    Meer informatie

  • Day 309: Bon Om Touk Water Festival

    14 november 2024, Cambodja ⋅ ☀️ 90 °F

    Bon Om Touk is a festival celebrated in late October or early November and marks the end of the monsoon season. We accidentally timed our travels to be in Phnom Penh during this festival. It was a blast.

    Started the day walking around the festival set up and watching the vendors prepare their food stands. There were police, military officers, and security everywhere. Drank some craft Cambodian beer and got out of the heat after walking along the Independence Park.

    We moved towards the Royal Palace and Silver Pagoda. As we made our way back to our hotel, we notice several cars with different international flags parking in a row. There are secret service members and machine guns everywhere. Decent size crowd forming and police holding hands to hold the crowd back; there is also a huge amount of police on scooters at the end of one street and an empty street to a viewing platform.

    We realize that someone famous is about to drive through; we decide to get up on a concrete block and pull our phones out. Shit you not, the palace opens up and the KING OF CAMBODIA comes driving through with his police escort and waving to people from his sunroof.

    We repeat again, THE KING OF CAMBODIA drives past and we get a solid video and view of him. After googling, we love this guy because apparently he didn’t want to be king and wanted to teach ballet in Europe as a professor. He became a Buddhist monk and is a bachelor with no wife or kids. He gives a lot of charity and enjoys sitting at home reading or listening to classical music.

    After a mid-evening break, they start a fireworks show for 2 hours and we walk along the river where light up boats cruise up and down. Venturing back to the festival grounds, we see some water wrestling and beautiful traditional Cambodia dances executed by a dance studio and live band.

    Best part is this festival lasts three days, and this was only day number 1.

    Spots:
    Statue of His Majesty Preah Bat Samdech Preah Norodom Sihanouk
    Royal Palace
    Sisowath Riverside Park
    Meer informatie

  • Day 310/311: Rest & RPG Shooting Range

    16 november 2024, Cambodja ⋅ 🌙 84 °F

    After staying up late at the festival, we opted for a Friday rest day and an opportunity to get laundry done / more Gap Year planning.

    Now, for those that don’t know Kieran very well, he’s a really chill and easy going guy. He doesn’t have the strongest opinions and is generally agreeable to suggestions. It should be understood that it’s rare for him to say, “When we visit X, I definitely want to visit ———.” Fair to say that Gap Year has pushed his trip planning skills and made him into a more decisive person when visiting places.

    However, Cambodia is the one place Kieran made a specific request and he almost didn’t go through with it: he really wanted to shoot an RPG 🤣🤣🤣 He did his research and found Visal Buth who offers the opportunity to shoot an RPG as well as other WWII and Cold War guns.

    And of course we are going to do it. When would a military history major and Call of Duty nerd not take up the opportunity?! You essentially visit a Cambodian Army training base and can pick from several weapons. Kieran picked the RPG and Dragunov sniper rifle while Mary picked an RPD Light Machine gun (both are Soviet).

    The ride to the army base was 1.5 hours and we had a lovely time talking to Visal. He served in the army for 4 years and has a wife and three children. He’s working to move to America and talked a lot about dealing with young teenagers. We learn that he runs his business all by himself and wants to create a larger presence on social media, but he doesn’t know how to use a computer.

    He’s been working with a guy from Japan to build out his website and recently worked with a man from Vietnam to create a YouTube account. We learned Visal gave the Vietnamese guy his email password and immediately told him that wasn’t a good idea. We offered to help him change his password and create a Instagram account for him for free. He was so grateful and invited us to coffee at his house after the shooting range.

    We get to the base and drive up to an area with big holes, army men, and a line of guns. Visal provided water and beer. Hanging out with the Cambodian Army guys was cool; they were all dressed in their camo but wore flip flops, which is very southeast Asian. It ends up we couldn’t shoot the Dragunov because they needed it for real army training that day lol

    It was time 🫣 the guy demonstrated to Kieran how to hold the RPG and how it would go. After one practice round, they were ready. The man counts down and immediately on three Kieran shoots it and it was so fucking loud!!! You could feel the boom and vibration on your chest. The rocket went flying and hit a bush; it was so cool.

    We both got a few shots off on the RPD and went with a Soviet SKS rifle as well. Kieran was able to hit a bottle on his first shot 😎 now for the kicker, the army guys offered a discounted price to throw a hand grenade. Mary was scared shitless, but also when are you going to get opportunities like this? Kieran goes for it and once again the guy shows him the process. Kieran is pretty scared too but keeps a level head.

    The pin is pulled out and he throws it into the water. The army officer points into the air and it goes boooomm!!!! Probably the most reckless thing Kieran has done in his life, but will cherish the memories forever.

    We thank the officers and head on to Visal’s house. His wife gives us coffee, a coconut, and lunch! Mary helps Visal create a new second email for his business, helps him reset his email password on his original account, and helps him set up his Pay Pal. She also forces two factor authentication and facial recognition to log in on all these accounts 😂 we say goodbye and his brother drives us home.

    When we get back to the hotel, we end up hanging out with a front desk worker there named Jakie who lives in Phnom Penh. We met him earlier, but couldn’t sync up our schedules to meet at the festival. Instead we chat, eat dinner, and enjoy beer until bed time.

    Such a crazy day.

    Food:
    Dumplings
    Spring rolls
    Fried rice
    Bagels

    Spots:
    Phnom Penh Shooting Range Experience
    Meer informatie

  • Day 312: Siem Reap

    17 november 2024, Cambodja ⋅ ⛅ 90 °F

    Siem Reap is the second largest city and largest tourist attraction destination for Cambodia due to its proximity to Angkor Wat. The city itself is an international haven with food diversity and a cosmopolitan drinking scene. Too bad we are still not 100% healthy yet.

    We had a 6 hour road trip from Phnom Penh and were greeted by a silly dog who wanted our breakfast. The bus had no air conditioning and our seats were in the back so you could feel every bump. Ice cream halfway through kept us strong and motivated.

    We arrived late afternoon with enough time to shower and walk around the city. Because they had also celebrated the water festival, many decorations remained. We visited the Angkor National Museum which included Khmer people artifacts and exhibits on Buddhism, Hinduism, and Brahmanism to prepare for our visit to Angkor Wat.

    Returned home for sleep and caught a cute gecko in our room. Put him outside because he refused to split the room three ways with us.

    Hostel: Mad Monkey Siem Reap

    Food:
    Hand pulled Cambodian noodles
    Cambodian lemongrass dumplings

    Spots:
    Siem Reap
    Royal Independence Gardens
    Wat Preah Prom Rath Buddhist Temple
    Angkor National Museum
    Meer informatie

  • Day 313: Land Mine Museum

    18 november 2024, Cambodja ⋅ ☀️ 91 °F

    Promise this is the last depressing military history post (we swear). Also link to donate: https://www.cambodianselfhelpdemining.org/

    At a very young age, Cambodian boy Aki Ra’s parents were murdered by the Khmer Rouge; he was forced to join the regime as a child soldier. During this time he would lay thousands of mines across Cambodia in addition to mines laid by Soviet Forces, US Forces, and Vietnamese forces. When his unit was captured by Vietnamese forces, he switched sides and laid mines along the Cambodian and Thailand border.

    After Cambodian independence and support from the UN, Aki Ra found employment demining the various land mines and UXOs (unexploded ordinances) across Cambodia. He felt it was his obligation to clear these weapons after laying so many.

    Overtime, as guilt ate away at him, he opened an orphanage for children who were accidentally maimed by unexploded land mines left over from the war. Aki Ra would return to the locations where he personally laid mines and worked with villages/farmers who called him if they found one. He kept all these unexploded mines.

    In 1999, he started charging people to see his collection and opened the Cambodian Land Mine Museum to generate income for his operations, help children and families with injuries associated with landlines, and educate people on the dangers of land mines. He has personally defused 50,000 land mines alone and was selected as a CNN Hero.

    We drove an hour out of Siem Reap to visit the museum and learn about his amazing work. He keeps his collection there and it was extensive. He includes a fake land mine field to show you how hidden these devices are and how thickly they were laid in Cambodian forests.

    Today, he runs an NGO called Cambodian Self Help Demining, which goes after lower priority villages and spots compared to the high priority zones tackled by larger NGOs. He receives grants and donations from US and Australian partners, and we left a link at the top of the post if you are interested in donating. They estimate 4-6 million land mines still need to be defused across Cambodia.

    Food:
    Snake
    Khmer curry
    Spicy beef

    Spots:
    Cambodian Land Mine Museum
    Meer informatie

  • Day 314: Angkor Wat

    19 november 2024, Cambodja ⋅ ☁️ 91 °F

    Today was a big day. After a fierce debate on what times we thought Angkor Wat would be the best to visit to avoid crowds and optimize schedule, heat, money, health, we decided to aim for the late afternoon. Picked up breakfast sandwiches and left our hostel around 11:30.

    Siem Reap is home to many Khmer temples and shrines. Angkor Wat is the most popular and we decided to visit 4 unique locations in addition.

    Started with Ta Prohm and Ta Keo. Ta Prohm is a 12th century Buddhist temple with forest and trees growing directly through the buildings. It was amazing to see the massive trees with their root structures intertwined in the stone. This is famous for being in the movie "Tomb Raider". Next was Ta Keo, known for its steep steps and impressive view. We scrambled up the uneven steps to get to the top, and obtain any amount of breeze we could. Today was a hot day so we took a few minutes at the top to appreciate the shade and fresh air.

    Third was Bayon Temple. As we arrived, we noticed a large group of monkeys that didn't seem afraid of people. We ran over to the monkeys and got some good pictures. Our relaxed guard around them would come back and bite us in the ass later. We walked throughout Bayon Temple and appreciated the Buddhas and monkeys in the temple. When we left, we decided to get some drinks before heading to Angkor Wat. Mary had finished her iced coffee and was holding the plastic cup when one of the monkeys jumped on her, swatting the cup out of her hand. We quickly realized why they were so friendly as we watched him drink the sugary coffee off the ground.

    Last was Angkor Wat, the largest religious complex in the world; it is both a Hindu and Buddhist temple and was built in the 12th century. We arrived right around 3:30pm which turned out to be perfect. We managed to dodge the midday heat and the last surge of crowds coming for sunset. Angkor Wat is so big that it takes 10-15 minutes to walk from the entrance to the main temple. The central, tallest tower of Angkor is accessible to the public and considered a pilgrimage for Buddhist monks. Because we dressed conservatively, we were permitted to climb up and fully enjoy the temple and its surroundings.

    With our large tour of temples finished, we went back to the hostel for some rest and a beer. The pool at our hostel was a welcome treat after such a hot day. Kieran craved Mexican food and our path took us down the famous Pub Street; we got to see the street come alive with the various bars, clubs, and restaurants.

    Food:
    Morning glory

    Spots:
    Angkor Wat
    Bayon Temple
    Ta Prohm
    Ta Keo
    Meer informatie