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Walking the Camino
  • Mary and Simon
  • Mary and Simon

Walking the Camino

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  • Mary and SimonWalking the CaminoReisender

    Day 53 Bilbao to Sestau

    13.–14. Juni 2024 in Spanien ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    The sun was shining as we got up and breakfasted at Andres’s flat. Then on the road once more.
    We wandered through complete urban sprawl on the way out of Bilbao. The nicest sections were along the canal and at 1 point through a kind of country park whee the locals were sunbathing.
    Apart from that we went through blocks of apartments, under and over motorways, big loud building projects and felt quite done in when we arrived in Sestao. It had been a long slog of roads and underpasses.
    The approach into town was very daunting with rubble and broken concrete buildings with lots of graffiti.
    We plodded up and down the Main Street of pinxtos bars, we found one that was serving chips and burgers and settled for lunch.
    Still have big issues with finding food as no where here does a meal before 8.30pm.
    We called into a local greengrocer and bought supplies to cook as we knew we had a kitchen to use.
    We arrived at the apartment we had a room in and the owner was quite flustered as she had been in shower when we rang the bell!
    We were shown our room, the bathroom and kitchen then left to our own devices.
    After showering we slumped, then had to rally to get cooking - our first homemade meal in 2 months.
    We were well underway with this when the phone went.
    Suddenly 2 more guests arrived- so now we are 5 adults in a tiny apartment with one toilet 😫
    Not great!!
    We will avoid this situation in future
    We settled ourselves to eat whilst the other adults wandered about us working out how to use the washing machine- not very relaxing!!
    Anyway onwards and forwards let’s hope we get some sleep and are in a more peaceful setting tomorrow 🤞    Weiterlesen

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  • Mary and SimonWalking the CaminoReisender
    21

    Day 54 - Sestao to Pobena

    14.–15. Juni 2024 in Spanien ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

    We awoke early ready to escape our urban nightmare. We were more chilled and had our planned breakfast of yoghurt, strawberries, coffee and croissants- while keeping an eye on the toilet situation!!
    We escaped before 9 and hit the urban highway.
    We passed over Bilbao’s equivalent of spaghetti junction with a 2km bridge spanning motorways and railways.
    Then we hit a great network of cycle and walking paths with no cars. Initially first 3km along a motorway then we veered off into countryside. So went 15km with no cars to contend with - very impressive.
    We met a cycle class of youngsters out with their teachers - what a great facility to have on your doorstep.
    On the whole the sun was out until we neared the end of the walk in La Arena, then the sun went in and the wind increased.
    We came across the sea at La Arena and stopped for lunch. Simon was very excited to discover egg, bacon and chips on the menu.
    It was like being in Cornwall with the Atlantic rushing in and surfers in the sea, waiting for a ride.
    We headed across long boardwalks over sand and scrublands to the lovely village of Pobeña.
    Here we found our lovely room for the evening which was such a contrast to the last couple of days 💕😇
    The weather closed in and we had heavy showers for a couple of hours with horizon covered in mist.
    As it dried up we ventured out to find some evening food and were entertained by the local basque folk group. A fitting end to a lovely day.    Weiterlesen

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  • Mary and SimonWalking the CaminoReisender

    Day 55 - Pobena to Castro Urdiales

    15.–16. Juni 2024 in Spanien ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C

    After a lovely evening in Pobena we were up and ready to continue walking around the coast. We were sad to leave our lovely room 🥰
    The route started with a steep climb up a long set of stairs! But then evened out to a great walk around the coast with beautiful vistas and a lovely breeze.
    We could see half way around the equivalent of Waterhouses cement factory and at this point we were sadly taken off the path and put onto quite busy roads for the majority of the walk. This went on underpasses and over motorways and at times was quite unnerving.
    We passed through 2 very long tunnels that had been cut through the rocky headlands the walk into today’s town Castro Urdiales was nearly as long as the walk itself.
    It is a lovely buzzy town with a nice feel and a lovely harbour.
    We stopped for a coffee and Simon suddenly went off and came back with huge chunks of chocolate cake 🍰
    We did have use of the kitchen today so alleviated the ongoing problem of when to eat by making a lovely soup. Our host was quite amused and guessed that Simon was a chef as we had barely got our rucksacks off and were chopping away at the veg.
    She is a nice jolly person who has made us very welcome.
    We had a wander around the town for a quick aperitif before heading back for a soup out.
    We are ready to sleep now ready for the next walk tomorrow
    We surpassed 800 km today 🙌👣👣👣
    P.S. who’s watching the Euros? 😂    Weiterlesen

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  • Mary and SimonWalking the CaminoReisender

    Change of route

    15. Juni 2024 in Spanien ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    Just to update you 😊. We are continuing to walk the Camino del Norte for the time it hugs the coast. We have decided to take a step further on this to the town of Foz as the coast is described as beautiful in this part of Spain.
    We have been having issues with booking accommodation moving inland so have taken the decision to bus it around the coast to Ferrol and A Coruña where we will take the Camino Inglis into Santiago de Compostelle.
    This follows the coast a little more and follows the route of the pilgrims from England and Ireland from as far back as the Middle Ages - something we find quite appropriate thinking of our heritage.
    Maps attached 👣👣👣    Weiterlesen

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  • Mary and SimonWalking the CaminoReisender

    Day 56 - Castro Urdiales to Rioseco

    16.–17. Juni 2024 in Spanien ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

    We awoke and breakfasted at Rosa’s our host, I think she enjoyed her bowl of Simon’s soup.
    We then headed out to the information booth at the harbour to a sparkling sunny sea vibe.
    The way was trying to take us more inland so we ignored it and followed the coastal track. Adding a few more km to our journey, but lots more enjoyment.
    This ended abruptly as the path ran out at the cliffs edge where we about turned and headed through the brush country up to the local motorway.
    We then had to hug the busy road on a cinder path by the barrier, we had to run across the road to join another path which did eventually take us back to the coast.
    However before it did this we passed through a strange little village where a group of people were tending to a slaughtered goat hanging from the garage door - slightly unnerving!!
    We were glad to get back on the coastal path. We passed a large campsite which had an open supermarket- unusual for a Sunday - and a restaurant serving lunchtime food - a double win. We settled down to some spaghetti dinners - real food 🙌 and got some food for a Sunday tea.
    We then had to rally ourselves for the final 6km to Rioseco and tonight’s accommodation. The place sounds like it should have a fancy drink combining Rioja with Prosecco!!
    We are in a nice little hacienda type property and met 2 Canadian pilgrims called Pat and Clive who are on their 4th Camino. So stories of the way were exchanged over a glass of wine and our Sunday high tea. It was interrupted at regular intervals by people sticking their head over the gate and requesting to stay the night. Quite awkward as we had to just direct them to the owners phone number. It is amazing how many people are walking and haven’t sorted out that evening’s accommodation.
    So we head for sleep. Wishing all you Father’s out there a Happy Father’s Day 🤗    Weiterlesen

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  • Mary and SimonWalking the CaminoReisender
    2

    Day 57 - Rioseco to Laredo

    17.–18. Juni 2024 in Spanien ⋅ ☁️ 23 °C

    We had a wonderful breakfast in Rioseco then set off confidently on our coastal walk to Laredo. Initially we had to walk back on ourselves towards the coast, then we hit a woodland path towards the sea. We passed a nice beach north of Rioseco. Then came to a marvellous beach half an hour on. We were very tempted to stop and get our feet in, then Simon got anxious about sand on feet with vapour rub gel and the time it would take to regel and sun cream up. Also he vibed a mountainous scene ahead. Then the fun began as we plodded across sand dunes without a camel and the theme tune to Laurence of Arabia struck up. Fairly quickly we hit the rock strata and this was just the beginning of a tortuous 3 hours crossing the headland both ascent and descent. We clambered and climbed and an Italian couple joined us. After 40 mins climb the path ran no out on a cliff we couldn’t get around. Then we caught a new path having doubled back on ourselves and found a mountain pass that alpine goats would have struggled with. The Italians went first and it was quite a precarious situation. It was clawing rock and on our knees at times climbing boulders and ravines in our rucksacks.
    At the top was a marvellous view and a wonderful breeze. We ate a clementine and waited for our thumping blood to alleviate.
    The sun came out stronger. From our position we could spot our target of Laredo shimmering in a haze and it dawned on us that we still had one hell of a mountain to get down through bush, rocks and scrub land to reach this destination.
    We had to trust the goat paths that held many an unexpected shock such as boulders, razor rocks and huge thorny bushes before we reached the sandy gravel path that led torturously slowly. In hospital, only joking, in our hotel the local bedroom had a shower that sorted us out and revived us enough to go in search of food and a launderette.
    We found a cafe that answered Simon’s dream of a plate of rice - mixed with seafood in the form of paella.
    At the launderette we bumped into our Canadian friends Clive and Pat. We exchanged stories and photos of our day as we had all been on different routes.
    We are now relaxing ready for whatever tomorrow throws at us.    Weiterlesen

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  • Mary and SimonWalking the CaminoReisender
    1

    Day 58 - Laredo to Noja

    18.–19. Juni 2024 in Spanien ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    We were up and off to find breakfast in a local bakery before setting off on the long promenade walk to Noja.
    Laredo is like a long spit of sand so the promenade to the end was about 4km. We then had to work out where the ferry went from as we needed to cross the sea to Santona.
    As we hit the beach the rain started- it came down in earnest on the ferry and we had to hide in the only sheltered section.
    So as we got off the boat we had to don our ponchos- yes and guess what 10 minutes later bright sunshine and hot, soupy air!!
    We headed out towards Noja and much to Simon’s horror a mountain loomed!
    He utterly refused to climb it as he is now suffering from man flu and lack of energy 😟
    So we rerouted to the road and despite our way being a further 4km it was better than climbing the mountain!!
    The Plodicus has become the plidicus today with Mary forging ahead leading the way.
    We arrived in Noja and had a chicken and chips lunch to share before finding our accommodation where Simon had space to recover for the afternoon.
    However the rain came back and when it was time for dinner all was shut until 8.30pm 😫
    We booked in at the restaurant in our hotel and entered a ghost ship at 8. Our dinner was uninspiring and our red wine was served chilled. The most entertaining aspect was that they served scallops from the Isle of Man 🇮🇲
    At least we have a lie in in the morning as we have a rest day and a hop along on the bus day to avoid Santander and some of the urban sprawl we experienced in Bilbao.    Weiterlesen

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  • Mary and SimonWalking the CaminoReisender

    Day 59 - Noja to San Vicente de la Barqu

    19.–20. Juni 2024 in Spanien ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    Today was a kind of rest day as we were getting a bus in and out of Santander to avoid any further urban sprawl nightmares!
    So we got up and had a lovely leisurely breakfast at our hotel.
    We didn’t have to check out until 12 so could rest up a little longer.
    The sun has come back and created a beautiful sparkling sea.
    The hotel allowed us to leave our rucksacks in their lobby so we could go exploring rucksack free 🙌.
    The sea was calling so we went paddling- it was very cold 🥶
    We then went walking further around the coast and the colours were beautiful.
    We headed into town for some lunch and found the ‘flowers cafe’ which fed us well.
    Then time to collect bags and head for the bus. It took about an hour to get into Santander - a typical busy city full of shopping boulevards, tunnels and underpasses and a very large port area.
    We swapped buses in an underground bus station. As we got on the bus the driver informed us that the ticket we had was not for his bus. So there were 2 buses going to the same place at the same time 😳🙄. We got off had a quick conflab that probably the other bus had gone by now or would have done by the time we found out where it was! So bit the bullet and had to buy another ticket 😡
    This bus seemed to stop everywhere and took forever to get to San Vicente our destination. And guess what - it was throwing it down as we clambered off the bus- so out came the ponchos!!
    We decided on a supermarket tea as both tired by this point. Only 1 type of sandwich left - crab 🦀 😫
    Then we spotted some sausage roll type things with cheese and ham - but they were more like pain au chocolates but with cheese and ham instead of chocolate- very odd. So not a great tea. We had a clementine for some health.
    So back on the path tomorrow- let’s see what that brings!    Weiterlesen

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  • Mary and SimonWalking the CaminoReisender

    Day 60 - San Vicente de la Barquera to C

    20.–21. Juni 2024 in Spanien ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C

    A nice breakfast was provided by our accommodation then it was off on the road once more.
    We had a nice sunny morning to start off but hit the uphills pretty quickly. Puffing and panting we found our fellow pilgrims on the route.
    Today was more of inland walk with mountain and field vistas. Some motorways were passed over and under.
    We went through some woodland and saw many tall eucalyptus trees but they were minus the koala bears. However we did see information suggesting that bears lived in the vicinity 😳🐻
    We passed over a couple of large rivers that were obviously very popular for canoeing. We met a large amount of school visits pursuing this.
    We are attempting to eat a main meal at lunch time either at the end or towards the end of the walk to stop the late evening failures 🤞
    We came to a town 2 km before our destination and debated lunch but decided to press on - up a hill and the heavens opened- it threw it down so we arrived here very soggy 💦💦
    The first restaurant was a Mexican so we decided to give it a whirl. A success they served us a very grand, tasty lunch.
    Next to us a large group of teenagers having a celebration of some sorts. Mary ended being their photographer 😂
    So we are chilling now in nice accommodation, Simon about to watch England 🏴󠁧󠁢󠁥󠁮󠁧󠁿 in the Euros 🙄
    Before a visit to the supermarket and a good sleep 💤    Weiterlesen

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    2

    Day 61 - Colombres to Puertas de Vidiago

    21.–22. Juni 2024 in Spanien ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    We headed out for breakfast and ended up with the odd Spanish omelette thing which is a thick slice of egg, cheese, onion and potatoes- strange for breakfast!
    Then headed off on the way.
    We had good walking weather, bright, chilly with a breeze, started bold in our T-shirts.
    We passed through La Franca where we will return in a month to meet Lucy and Graham - hopefully for a beach day 🤞
    The track was along road and through more eucalyptus woods.
    We headed off the path to walk along the coast which was beautiful on this bright day - added a further 3km to our journey, but it was worth it.
    We crisscrossed the railway line and motorway. We gazumped a group of pensioners to a bench under cover as we paused to enjoy our orange and lemon cake for our power rush - they looked put out as they had to make do with the alternative bench for their roadside picnic of wine and sandwiches - we were sure there were more scenic places 😂
    We continued on our coastal adventure and came across a couple of fairly secluded beaches and coves.
    The cloud cover increased and grey got greyer - we thought ‘here we go’ and decided to abandon the coastal route for the quicker version- along dual carriageways, roundabouts and the long walk in to Puertas de Vidiago. However it didn’t rain 🙌
    What a very cute Spanish village it turned out to be.
    We had a lovely fish dinner in the local restaurant with walnut cake, vino Bianco and coffee - eating at lunch time is definitely an improvement.
    Our hotel is friendly and a central attraction.
    A large crowd of locals drummed down the hill to watch a Charlie Chaplinesque mime artist on a stage out the back - slightly surreal - we hope for a good sleep and onto day 62!    Weiterlesen

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    1

    Day 62 - Puertas de Vidiago to Llanes

    22.–23. Juni 2024 in Spanien ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    We woke to a grey day and obvious signs it had rained a lot in the night. In fact it was still mizzling 🌧️
    We had a lovely breakfast in our cute hotel and decided to hang about a bit to see if the rain would stop. We only had a short walk planned so to start a little later would be ok!
    About 10 it brightened and the rain did stop so we loaded up and set off.
    We were on the road with high mountains to our left - these were in and out of the cloud.
    Trevor the satnav attempted to send us over damp fields towards the coast but Simon was having non of it and we stuck to the road.
    We passed through a couple of villages but plodded onto our destination- the harbour town of Llanes.
    We arrived and got our credentials stamped then Simon got excited as he spotted roast chicken on the spit - however we ventured on and found a restaurant for lunch offering Asturian bean stew - which Simon decided to go for and it has gummed him up!!
    We then found our pension for the evening, settled in and found the local launderette 🙌
    Once washing was done we explored the town further, walking around the harbour and seeing the local fishing boats.
    There is an amazing piece of art called ‘the Cubes of Memory’ situated all around the port area by the Basque artist Augustin Ibarrola that is quite a sight to behold.
    Llanes is a busy, bustling little harbour town. We are trying to work out if it is the Spanish holidays as everywhere we go it seems to be rammed day and night with people eating and drinking!
    Tomorrow we are hopping along to Ribadesella on the train - so a bit of a rest day.    Weiterlesen

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    1

    Day 63 - Llanes to Ribedesella

    23.–24. Juni 2024 in Spanien ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    After a sleepless night due to party city in Llanes, singing folk at 6 in the morning- long time since we were part of that 😆 we huffed and puffed through the night marvelling at the energy of others! We struggled into the day ready for a fight for the toilet - however all was surprisingly calm.
    We headed out and found a very well organised bakery which provided us with a lovely breakfast.
    We got talking to a couple of American pilgrims who were on their third Camino - they were addicted- and were having an amazing tromp around Europe as well.
    We then packed up to head for the railway station. Our train came in and we boarded only to be told to disembark as the train was returning to Santander. Our actual train arrived 10 mins later, and we all squeezed on. Journey was just over half an hour.
    We headed for our Pension for the evening to discover they didn’t have us on the list 🙄
    As the error was theirs they had to find alternative accommodation for us!!
    This happened to be a 1912 art deco hotel with very nice rooms and a fantastic view across the harbour, marina and misty hills - a win win 🙌
    After settling into our new abode we headed out for our lunch scene. It was a bit of a school dinner scene but we enjoyed it. We got in just in time as within minutes the queue was out the door.
    We enjoyed ‘Granny’s rice pudding’ even though it was a bit sweet.
    We then enjoyed a good promenade along the harbour and breakwater getting good sea air.
    We are now back in our lovely room. Chilling ready for tomorrow’s 20k    Weiterlesen

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    1

    Day 64 - Ribedesella to Colunga

    24.–25. Juni 2024 in Spanien ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    So our beautiful bedroom provided little rest as across the estuary fiestas had set up for the bank holiday. They had a huge bonfire and just as we had dozed off the fireworks exploded- we reckon about 11 ish - then 7 hours of techno music til 6 in the morning 😭
    So we arose feeling jaded and headed down for a lovely breakfast to perk us up.
    After breakfast, we got lunch purchases from the bakery, and we were on the road again. The weather was overcast and quite soupy !
    We did beach promenades initially the up hills into woodland and through fields. These had sticky current bun flies dabbing at your head and some horrible thugs that chewed at your calves if you stopped for so much as a moment.
    We went through some cute little villages and stopped on a cliff top for lunch.
    Then we hit lovely secluded, wide beaches and bays with the big old Atlantic rolling in, cliff top meadows full of gold and purple wild flowers, finally a bit of a road scene as we avoided a very boggy, muddy path to our accommodation.
    Our accommodation for this evening is stunning 🤩 a real family affair where they are all so proud of their setting.
    We have been made to feel so welcome, well fed and really hoping for a jolly good sleep tonight. Beautifully decorated, stunning panoramas, the sun came out and marvellous swishy winds.
    Fantastic gardens with huge pom-poms of hydrangeas and Dalia’s.    Weiterlesen

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    Day 65 - Colunga to Villaviciosa

    25.–26. Juni 2024 in Spanien ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    We awoke to a sunny day in our lovely hotel and were provided with a very nice breakfast.
    Once again on the road, however the breeze from last night had vanished.
    So our walk was a drippy one. We went up and down hills, through fields and woodlands.
    We met a good number of other pilgrims on this route also feeling the heat.
    We passed through a number of apple orchards as it appears that villaviciosa is the cider centre of northern Spain. We passed factories where it is made, then wandered into town.
    We found a friendly cafe for lunch, then onto our accommodation- a lovely, traditional Spanish Casa.
    It has lots of great wooden features and lots of old pieces of wooden furniture.
    We managed a laundry scene much to Simon’s enjoyment then headed out to see the evening scene.
    We happened upon a Celtic concert with local folk players and dancers.
    Now some sleep ready for a bus day tomorrow.    Weiterlesen

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    3

    Day 66 - Villaviciosa to Aviles

    25.–26. Juni 2024 in Spanien ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    After our sunny day we had heavy rainfall last night.
    Today was warm and sunny. We strolled off to find the bus station and once again managed to get on the wrong bus - main mistake- it was too early 😂 he kindly let us stay on and we set off for Gijón- it’s funny to do a full days walk in half an hour!! The coach driver went at quite a lick even around mountain hairpin bends 😳
    Gijon was a large city and we were surprised by the size of it - a bit like a mini Santander. It would have been a long trudge in.
    The bus out was in half an hour so not too long to wait. The bus station was busy with a huge queue for information and tickets. Thank goodness I had bought ours in advance!
    The bus driver was very helpful and told us where we needed to get off. Even after we had got off he jumped off the bus to explain where we needed to go 🥰
    So we headed into Avilés- a town with lots of history, piazzas and parks. We sat in a park while waiting to check in to our hotel.
    Then headed out for lunch. As we were still in cider country decided to try this! I still am not a cider fan ☹️ it was a kind of scrumpy, sold tepid and cloudy!!
    Simon was very happy as his dinner came with jacket potatoes- something he has been craving for a while 🥳
    We fed a whole flock of pigeons with some of our leftover bread.
    So it’s a rest now as we have a few challenging walks ahead of us.
    Adios amigos    Weiterlesen

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    Day 67 - Aviles to Soto del Barco

    27.–28. Juni 2024 in Spanien ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    We woke up and opened the noisy shutters! Then headed for breakfast- the usual coffee, orange juice, croissants and a pinxos
    Then onto today’s walk in a sultry, overcast and close day - with no breeze☹️
    On the whole it was a fairly uninspiring walk, initially through the suburbs of Avilés (all uphill) then into fields and lanes then into woodlands.
    We passed through a couple of towns which were all pavement then on into more woodlands.
    Simon felt we were in the logging centre of Asturias, logging trails and very muddy.
    We got called over a main road by a group of strimming men and had to hand clap our way through the heavy alley of nettles and bracken they were sorting out.
    Trevor disagreed with the route that the shells and yellow arrows were taking us - we showed him who was boss and he re routed to agree with us. We climbed several hills and then descended into heavy clay tracks and a poisonous pond where we decided not to have a swim 😆
    Then on into our destination where we stopped for a very well priced lunch before finding our lodgings for the evening.
    After a shower we headed out for water and light refreshments 😉
    And we were entertained by the local WI who went into a spontaneous singsong.
    On the local screen the Spanish equivalent of ‘the chase’ came on. We attempted to translate and answer the questions 😂
    We both managed to get one right 🙌🙌 Bradley Walsh’s equivalent looked like a young Gary Barlow in Mary’s opinion 😆
    So we prepare to rest for the evening as a challenging 20k tomorrow    Weiterlesen

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    3

    Day 68 - Soto del Barco to Soto del Luin

    28.–29. Juni 2024 in Spanien ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    We had a fab breakfast courtesy of our lovely host at Hotel Rural.
    The day was overcast and mizzly, however we stepped out bold in our t shirts!
    We headed out of town and up the first hill of the day. Then across a giant bridge spanning the estuary.
    The path took us through neat Asturian towns with well manicured villas and bungalows. Hydrangeas are very popular. we also like the old fashioned grain stores on their stone plinths, stopping rats and mice attacking the winter storage.
    Then into lots of woods and forest paths. The last few days have been like walking in a reptile display case, with wet gravel, damp claggy air and fruity vegetation - Simon imagines a giant lizard appearing to gobble us up! 😳
    Through a lot of the walk we were either weaving under and over the railway or the motorway.
    So after 2 hours of dripping we head into the mist and the inevitable rain started 💦
    Ponchos on and off we trotted again, then a wind scurried up - which was quite pleasant.
    Today's walk was without other pilgrims until the last half an hour.
    As we neared the end of the walk we saw the sea loom out of the mist , crashing on the bay. We commented on the lack of fog horns, when suddenly there was a series of explosions - not sure what they were! dynamiting at the local quarry maybe 🤔
    So after a number of further uphill plods we eventually made our destination. A quiet, fairly chilly, very local village.
    We did find a good lunch and they will also do breakfast in the morning.
    Simon is missing our access to a kettle as these are not provided in rooms in Spain! So we hit the bar for a cup of tea 😂🫖
    Tomorrow is also looking damp but we hope it brightens up after that 🤞    Weiterlesen

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    21

    Day 69 - Soto del Luina to Cadavego

    29.–30. Juni 2024 in Spanien ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    We woke to a dull, wet day. We headed up the road to the hotel we visited yesterday for breakfast. They actually offered bacon and eggs which Simon joyfully accepted with a smile. Back to the room to gather our belongings then onto the road again.
    We attempted to start off bold but pretty soon Northern Spain had another idea!! So with the rain on went the ponchos ☹️
    We seemed to be following a different route to the one Trevor planned - after a very long, dark tunnel with a river running through he announced it was no longer 18km but 21 😳👣👣
    We continued following the yellow arrows and he then decided it was 16km.
    However we then hit the mountainous, Forrest tracks that were in fact river beds, full of stones, mud and running water 💦
    On 3 occasions we met an overrunning river that we had to cross with stepping stones. The last one was partially challenging, where it took a while to plot our way across as it was very deep, the water fast flowing with 1 slippery log traversing the crossing. Balancing on a slippy log, carrying a heavy rucksack is tricky!!!
    After realising we had only travelled a further 4 km in an hour and a half we checked out the route more closely and saw that there was a ‘road option’ that added more km but we could make headway. Even the road had quite a number of uphill sections!! We took this route as we had had enough of river beds!!
    So we arrived at our destination having now covered practically 22km 👣👣😵‍💫
    It was a long hard road, looping mountains and valleys.
    We arrived at our destination ready for food after nearly 6 hours.
    Today we surpassed 1000km of walking 🙌🙌
    Our hotel is lovely and located in a beautiful costal spot.
    Of course the sun came out as we arrived ☀️😂
    After showering we wandered down to the headland with stunning views and a lovely little chapel. If we went north on the bay of Biscay we would hit Lands End, Waterford in Ireland, and maybe the Isle of Man.
    We look forward to a good sleep and a fresh start tomorrow on a slightly less 17km 🤞    Weiterlesen

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  • Mary and SimonWalking the CaminoReisender
    1

    Day 70 - Cadavego to Luarca

    29.–30. Juni 2024 in Spanien ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C

    We woke to a dry and bright day. The hotel offered a basic but enjoyable breakfast. Then we were back on the road.
    The weather was much better today as we traversed fields of young corn, growing runner beans and the Asturian orchards.
    The way passed through woods and forests and we encountered streams and mud that haven’t been seen since France.
    Overall the way was a lot more straightforward than yesterday 🙌
    Luarca is a pretty harbour town that could be plonked down anywhere in Devon, Cornwall or the Isle of Man.
    We have met a number of birds - both pigeons and seagulls that have feet or toes missing, what could this mean?
    The Plodicus and Mary are resting their feet tomorrow as we get a bus to the next destination. We did it again - visited the laundry - so we have happy clothes 😂
    Watched the end of the England game so are keeping abreast of the Euros!!    Weiterlesen

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  • Mary and SimonWalking the CaminoReisender
    22

    Day 71 - Luarca to Tapia de Casariego

    1.–2. Juli 2024 in Spanien ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

    We had a good sleep and didn’t come to til practically 8 due to very good windows and noise control. After some searching found an excellent bakery for breakfast.
    Had a couple of hours resting and doing admin - it has been a rest day!
    The sun has been shining - we then headed for the bus station. Our bus eventually turned up and we all piled on.
    This bus had no notifications as to where we were so had to track the journey with Google maps so we didn’t miss our stop.
    The Plodicus had to get off twice to check our bags weren’t being left on the pavement as others dragged their rucksacks off. He found this rather tiresome!!
    We arrived at Tapia de Casariego unloaded and headed into town. We were too early to check in so sat at the sunny harbour and practised selfies 🤣 we’re still pretty rubbish at these!!
    We checked in and quickly relinquished our bags and ran back out to the sunshine.
    We had a very helpful hotel manager who told us lots of useful info about the town.
    We took his advice and headed back into town via the coastal path, reminiscent of the catwalk in Port St Mary.
    The Plodicus was becoming tetchy as his hunger pangs began to bite!! We headed for a nice restaurant and had a successful luncheon 🙌
    We then went walkabout along the harbour to enjoy the sunshine and the views. It was remarkably hot and still!
    After watching the return of the fishing boat we headed back for a couple of beers.
    We spotted large fish in the harbour that we think might be the same as the Manx callig - all opinions welcome!
    Then back to the room to cool off and blob out!
    The Plodicus is on about ice cream 🍦- we shall see !!
    One can only have so much of a good thing 😆    Weiterlesen

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  • Mary and SimonWalking the CaminoReisender

    Day 72 - Tapia de Casariego to Ribadeo

    2.–3. Juli 2024 in Spanien ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    We didn’t sleep so well due to noisy hotel 😵‍💫
    We hopped across the road to the cafe for breakfast and sat next to 4 giggly civil guards!!
    Then time to pack up and set off.
    Simon made a sad discovery that his walking shoes had holes in the top of his shoe 😳
    We hope they will last for the next 3 weeks but decided to buy a cheap replacement just in case. We found there was a large decathlon store in Ribadeo so Trevor was reset to take us there.
    The Plodicus started off moodily and raced off at quite a clip. This is because he’s prehistoric.
    We went around the coast but we’re glad we had got lots of pics yesterday as it was pretty dull and overcast today.
    We passed a school party of teenagers going for a swim on the beach.
    We had to walk over an immense bridge to cross from Asturias into Galicia.
    It was quite scary being that high up over the estuary and looking down.
    We stopped for a drink as we got into Ribadeo, then set off for decathlon. This was in the middle of a retail park.
    As Simon was trying on his new shoes an Irish man came up to chat. He shocked Simon by telling him just to throw the old ones away!!
    Simon said he would not as he is a sentimental person - he will wear them until they fall off 😆
    So we got our purchases and headed back to town for some lunch.
    Then into our room for the night.
    We have an early start tomorrow as we are visiting ‘Cathedral beach’ with all its caves and magnificent rock arches. We have to get there when the tide is low for the best experience.
    We have been happy to find a kettle here so have managed a cup of tea. We can also have a coffee in the morning before our adventures.    Weiterlesen

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  • Mary and SimonWalking the CaminoReisender
    2

    Day 73 - Ribadeo to playa las Catedrales

    3.–4. Juli 2024 in Spanien ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    We had a better sleep but awoke early. We were going to use hotel facilities to make a coffee before our early start as we had been informed that breakfast wasn’t until 8.30.
    However we could hear distinctive breakfast like noises from the cafeteria room. We went to investigate (only 7.30 at this point) and the room was fully set up for breakfast and being demolished by a whole raft of cyclists!! We tucked in had some for ourselves. 😂
    We collected our things and headed off. We were going to visit the unesco site of ‘Cathedral beach’ which needs to be seen at low tide for best experience as the beaches quickly get immersed as the tide comes in.
    Today low tide was at 9.00am so we treated ourselves to a taxi. He dropped us at the beach but we had to get to our hotel to drop bags off - a further 15 mins walk.
    Back to the beach - we had to organise permits in advance to visit as numbers are limited.
    The day started grey and overcast - not best for photo opportunities. Simon couldn’t believe it as just in front of us was the large group of cyclists from our hotel 🙄
    We duly had our permits approved and headed onto the beach.
    The rock formations carved by the sea and the caves were very impressive 🙌
    We had another go at selfies 😵‍💫
    After wandering around, clambering over rocks and admiring the sights we could see the beach starting to disappear- time for a coffee.
    Despite the incoming tide the people kept coming. We kept hearing strains of bag pipes 🤔
    When we looked back over we spotted a piper in full Galician regalia playing to the crowds - we weren’t sure if this was a warning to start clearing the beach due to incoming tide.
    We went on a walk around the headland and spotted our path for tomorrow as it will not be an ‘official’ Camino walk - just us joining up 2 paths.
    Then the sun came out and we hit the beach for a couple of hours. The day turned into a brilliant blue and the beach busied up. We enjoyed paddling in the waves but the water was still chilly.
    We set up camp between 2 rocks until sun stroke threatened and the tide nearly claimed us.
    Time for lunch we decided. We found the local restaurant and were treated to a fish feast.
    Then back to check in officially and find our room and a shower.
    The beautiful weather drew us out again for a final drink and a wander down the boardwalk admiring the wonderful views.
    Now time for bed as we prepare for a 20k walk tomorrow- we are enjoying a lovely lounge with a kettle for a cup of tea and Simon demolishing a packet of peanuts!    Weiterlesen

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  • Mary and SimonWalking the CaminoReisender

    Day 74 - hotel las Catedrales to Foz

    4.–5. Juli 2024 in Spanien ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    We awoke to a very different day full of greyness and mizzle. Breakfast was quite late at 9.00 meaning everyone turned up at the same time!!
    We were on our way by 9.40am. We attempted to start bold but after an hour the mizzle got heavier to a constant fizzing rain that was soaking us - yes the ponchos had to come out. We were following the coastal trail that went past lovely beaches served by a range of ‘surf schools’ offering classes to children- we think it must be Spanish school holidays as these were quite well attended- despite the fog and mizzle.
    For some reason our rucksacks felt heavy today - July 4th was hanging heavy!!
    As the walk progressed and Foz hoved into view it was a malicious trick as Foz jumped from hill to hill with a huge span of smelly marshland that we seemed to circumnavigate for hours!!
    We both plodded into Foz weak with hunger.
    We eventually made our way into the town and hit a querty bar where we had to download the app to order food!!
    After we had eaten we made our way to our room - it was finally 3.00pm and we were allowed in 🙌
    After a shower and a nap we went to investigate Foz further as the Plodicus was hungry again.
    After taking the coastal route into town we had a long search for an open pizza restaurant! We persevered and eventually were successful.
    We are now back in our room overlooking the grey sea and evening with a herring gull across the way looking at our open window with a beady eye 👁️
    Time to rest before our journey tomorrow to Ferrol and the start of the Camino Inglis.
    Happy American Independence Day to our USA 🇺🇸 followers
    Hope all our Brit followers managed their vote !!    Weiterlesen

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  • Mary and SimonWalking the CaminoReisender
    3

    Day 75 - Foz to Ferrol

    5.–6. Juli 2024 in Spanien ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    It’s now been several days since we entered the land of the Galicians. They are on the whole friendly and welcoming despite living in a land of the mizzle.
    We were awoken by the ever present sea gulls!
    Then after a very good breakfast we walked to a very small, rural train station ( literally a platform with a shelter - the time table sellotaped to the inside of the shelter) of course this was in the mizzle.
    The train turns up when it feels like it - today that was 25 mins late! - remind you of anything?
    We were glad there were others waiting 🤪
    The journey took us the remaining section of the north coast and then inland and west to the town of Ferrol - the start of the Camino Inglis.
    We passed coastline and beaches then acres of eucalyptus forests- this seems to be the main tree in Northern Spain. ( just missing the koalas!)
    We arrived in Ferrol in the sunshine. This is another thriving, busy port town, with a naval dock.
    We met some of the naval cadets washing their uniforms at the launderette.
    As usual the bars and restaurants are busy and thriving plus Spain has just beaten Germany so the street outside has turned into a fiesta 😳
    We are hoping for some sleep before an early start and the first section of the Camino Inglis. Let’s hope the locals allow this and our windows cut out some of the celebrations!!
    Simon is hoping for no smelly marshes and sticky bun flies!
    Adios amigoes    Weiterlesen

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  • Mary and SimonWalking the CaminoReisender

    Day 76 - Ferrol to Pontedeume

    6.–7. Juli 2024 in Spanien ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    Awoke for our early start - having managed some sleep, despite the noisy fiesta!! I thank very comfortable pillows 🙏
    We had a basic breakfast then set off on the Camino Inglis. It was nice to be back to well signposted route with our familiar shells and yellow arrows.
    We also have regular posts with the countdown of km to Santiago 👍
    We tracked past major military ground, round the harbour and out of Ferrol.
    We were pleased to find that the first bridge over the estuary/ river had a path for walkers across. The other pilgrims decided to go the longer route as they need to have done at least 100km to get their certificate in Santiago- no worries for us there 😇😂.
    The bridge was long with a lovely breeze. We then had to head through an estate of apartment blocks to get back on track. The town was called Fene and provided a lovely coffee.
    The way led into forests and fields where we had a horse incident!
    So Simon went over to this youngish horse and was patting it and mumbling nonsense when it suddenly started snapping it's teeth at him, so he backed off and it was having non of it and came briskly forwards snapping at him as if he were an apple. We then ran and it came after us, then Simon stumbled and fell! Mary shrieked and the horse sneered and seem to line up for a kick😳 Simon scrabbled up - must have been the adrenaline kicking in - (with rucksack) and we both legged it and we could hear it huffing and trotting after us and it's chain links clacking away, we just made it before it's chain held it. It was a close call and we were both giggling with shock at our escape... That's the end of pony petting unless they're fenced in 🙌🐴
    We recovered our wits, patted ourselves down and felt relieved not to have any major injuries- just muddied up clothes - sad as we went the launderette yesterday- and a sore hip in Simon’s case.
    We carried on into Pontadeume pleased that we could walk and admiring lovely views over the bay.
    As we approached the town we became aware it was exceptionally busy. This was due to a festival happening- this meant an issue with lunch 😢
    It was a problem as our usual option of a meal at this time was unavailable- just snacks and artisan food stalls.
    Sadly after a 20k walk we had to hit the donner kebab house!!
    Then onto our accommodation which was up the busiest street followed by the steepest hill since Deba!!
    We both remained remarkably calm although Mary had to retrieve her hiking poles off Simon as he was getting close to whacking people and cars with them !!
    We are now in our accommodation and Simon is calming with a couple of beers and watching England v Switzerland in the Euros.    Weiterlesen

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