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Walking the Camino
  • Mary and Simon
  • Mary and Simon

Walking the Camino

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  • Mary and SimonWalking the CaminoTraveler

    Day 77 - Pontedeume to Betanzos

    Jul 7–8, 2024 in Spain ⛅ 18 °C

    We awoke early after a reasonable night - breakfast was as expected ‘toast and coffee’ very good coffee 😊
    We set off on day 2 of Camino Inglis with the sun shining and a bit of a breeze 🙌👣👣
    We traversed paths, woodlands, minor roads and met lots of other pilgrims- where we chased each other up many hills, hissing breathless ‘olas’’ in Simon’s case and ‘ buen Camino’ in Mary’s case.
    We went up many hills, and flattened out at a golf course- missed all the balls, then went up more hills.
    We passed through numerous villages- some offered stamps for the credentials, some had honesty stalls of Camino memorabilia.
    Each time we approached a hill more pilgrims appeared to bother Simon , making him believe they were aliens from outer space.
    In the town of Mino we replenished our fruit supplies and saw lovely coastal views.
    However upon leaving the village we were quickly onto more hills to climb.
    We are however walking well and managing about 5km per hour on a good road.
    Today we did 20km in 4 hours and hit town in need of a good lunch. We found a good restaurant, but they took forever to serve us. Then it filled up big time so we gave up the idea of pudding and coffee and got out - even that took 20 mins !!
    We headed up to hotel that allowed us to check in early 🙌🙌
    Room is grand and we chilled and recovered.
    We found that most places are closed on a Sunday and after much google searching found a carrefour express still open 2km away. So sorted ourselves out and are now back in the room hoping for a peaceful sleep.
    Big walk tomorrow!!    Read more

  • Mary and SimonWalking the CaminoTraveler

    Day 78 - Betanzos to O Meson do Vento

    Jul 8–9, 2024 in Spain ☁️ 17 °C

    After a decent breakfast in the anti room where we watched the Pamplona bull run on Spanish breakfast TV, we made our way back onto our own challenges!
    It wasn’t long til we hit a big hill and that set the pattern for the day- challenging and hilly.
    We had managed the equivalent 116 flights of stairs by the end of it.
    You need a good heart to cope with these things which unfortunately the Plodicus doesn’t have towards his fellow pilgrims! Because (in his opinion) they always stop at the bottom of hills and play chase!! He had said at the beginning of the day he wasn’t on for rushing- however this changed as the day progressed!!
    We went up lots of hills, meadows of wild flowers, much asphalt and eucalyptus woods.
    We were able to keep a downward count due to ongoing route markers.
    We are both quite stiff after this walk and got allocated the disabled room today - so no problem when we seize up on the loo- photo to follow 😂
    Very well organised hotel - we had to download app to order lunch but at least it was in English! Our washing got whisked away - then they informed us we had to collect it from behind the bar at 9.30 tonight!! Usually we are in bed by then.
    Simon is praying that all the pilgrims washing didn’t go into one wash and we have a fight to claim our belongings at 9.30 😳 a rugby scrum comes to mind!!
    It made a change from rushing to the launderette but Simon is getting withdrawal symptoms from not watching his washing go around.
    He is also missing his new found love for Pastis - thanks Andy and Colin! He hasn’t found this in Spain and as the brandy is hit and Miss has become whiskey head 🙄
    He now recommends J&B, Cutty Sark and Jamesons.
    Tomorrow is another long walk so we hope to be off by 9 - as long as our laundry scrum goes ok 🤞
    The area we are in is known as the house of wind 💨 when we arrived it was like Wuthering Heights with the wind moaning across the window. Simon is hoping this continues through the night - whoooo 💨    Read more

  • Mary and SimonWalking the CaminoTraveler

    Day 79 - Meson do Ventu to Siguira

    Jul 9–10, 2024 in Spain ☁️ 18 °C

    We awoke to leaden skies, high winds and drizzle. We had a long walk today - 25km so the prospect of ponchos all day didn’t fill us with enthusiasm 🙄
    We were on the road by 8.30am. Despite the weather we made good progress averaging about 5.3km per hour. Fortunately not so many hills today.
    We passed by many fields of corn, market gardens with locals tending their cabbages, eucalyptus forests and much asphalt.
    We met a good range of pilgrims that we mostly overtook!!
    We moved ever closer to Santiago on the way markers with now only 16km away.
    We braved removing our ponchos after at least an hour clear of drizzle, however had to quickly don them again just before reaching our destination as the heavens opened.
    We were able to check into our hostel room for the night, then braved the rain once more to find lunch.
    We found a good 3 course meal with drinks and coffee for €13 each - quite amazing-
    We headed back to shower and rest.
    Katie’s birthday is today so we caught up with her 🎶🎂🙌
    Then headed for the supermarket for some provisions.
    We have just watched France lose to Spain so are praying for no parties! England’s turn tomorrow.
    So we hope for sleep as tomorrow we March into Santiago de Compostella the destination of our pilgrimage.    Read more

  • Mary and SimonWalking the CaminoTraveler
    1

    Day 80 - Siguiara to Santiago de Compste

    Jul 10–11, 2024 in Spain ☁️ 21 °C

    We knew today was a shorter walk so were not in a great rush to get on the Way. We chatted with 2 Czech Republic girls walking the Camino Inglis - one from Prague and one from the Polish border. They had linked up through an environmental movement. - Greta I imagine was some inspiration 🙌
    They set off as we finished breakfast. We packed up and were on our own way by 9.45. 16 km to go.
    The day was very foggy and mizzly so ponchos were the fashion of the day.
    We tracked through the familiar eucalyptus forests, market gardens and asphalt. Hard to judge things due to the poor visibility!!
    After 2 hours or so and Mary’s need for a toilet stop we had a comfort and refreshment break. A weird little hotel playing spooky music in the middle of the wood that sounded like the magic roundabout theme 🎶!!
    So on we went into the enchanted wood 🧚
    Then after several hills we were on our way into Santiago de Compostella in the fog!!
    We measured the way markers in 5 km intervals.
    As we came into the city it was like a ‘death dream’ according to Simon with grey moving figures in the thick fog - all very surreal.
    Our hostel was before the Cathedral of Santiago so we had organised to drop our rucksacks in. When we arrived we were informed that our room was ready 🙌 so soggy and damp we decided to hit the shower 🚿 then move into town.
    Santiago de Compostella was very impressive and we met many fellow pilgrims. I went to look at pilgrim office where they administer the Compostella and it wasn’t too busy so I went and received that as well as my distance travelled certificate.
    We found a nice restaurant for some lunch - rather late. Then headed back to hostel to do washing of clothes. This hostel is amazing it has a whole laundry scene in the basement- I just have to send Simon down there now for a chill out if he’s getting stressed 😂 and an incredible kitchen set up on the 3rd floor that is a bit like a school domestic science department with lots of cooking stations and fridges and very important 1 kettle 🙌
    We had a brief chill before heading back to the Cathedral for the Pilgrims Mass. Then a few drinks before heading back to watch England beat the Netherlands 😳 The large tv was in the kitchen area.
    We are here for a rest day tomorrow before starting the walk to Muxia on the western Atlantic coast on Friday ☺️    Read more

  • Mary and SimonWalking the CaminoTraveler
    1

    Day 81/82 - Santiago to Negreira

    Jul 11–12, 2024 in Spain ☁️ 18 °C

    We had a lovely rest day yesterday. We went to the English Mass in the Chapel in the Pilgrims office in the morning. We had a lovely Filipino priest who had lots of thoughts on moving forward after walking the Camino. Simon was slightly vibed out as we all had to introduce ourselves, where we were from and where we had walked from 😆
    We then went on a long wander to find the bus station which was the other end of town. We were quite surprised at how big Santiago de Compostella really is.
    On the way back we were entertained by a group of singing and dancing young ladies. They were very uplifting 🎶
    We then went for a lovely lunch - in the rain! But found a great restaurant that looked after us very well.
    We went souvenir shopping- little things that are easy to carry 😉
    Then a relaxing evening!
    Today we were up and off. We are travelling to Muxia and then Finisterre on the western Atlantic coast. After some debate we are doing a combination of walking and public transport on this last leap of our travels.
    The Plodicus’s wisdom tooth 🦷 is starting to play up 🤨 it may have been jolted in the horse debacle! He is downing ibuprofen to attack whatever’s happening.
    Today we got the bus to Negreira, had a wander round town only to find it’s a local holiday so all is closed 🙄
    We had lunch at our hotel which was also playing host to a large party of pensioners, and a large party of local walkers. They were literally bussed in and out, all very odd! We just got in before they all marched in and sat down.
    Have had a chilled afternoon researching a potential car for Mary on our return 🚘
    An early night is planned as we are on foot for the next couple of days.    Read more

  • Mary and SimonWalking the CaminoTraveler

    Day 83 - Negreira to Vilaserío

    Jul 13–14, 2024 in Spain ☁️ 15 °C

    Last night there was a fiesta in our hotel due to the local holiday and our room was above the bar - so not a lot of sleep!!
    However today was bright and dry so we were up and breakfasted in good time.
    Quite a short walk today 14km so off we went.
    We were back in a very rural aspect through woody groves and good open fields and landscapes. Passed a few other walkers - most seemed to be British- which was a first. Mary got chatting to a couple one from Finland and one from South Africa.
    We arrived in Vilaserío and had a coffee at the cafe. Then went to investigate the restaurant that we had planned for lunch - closed for the day 🙄
    As today was Mary’s birthday we had booked a cute Spanish Villa to stay in as a treat - but it’s in the middle of nowhere!! We decided to head to the accommodation and rethink plans. When we got there we opened the fridge to find it full of food, wine and beer 🙌🙌 we basically pay for what we use - amazing. 🤩
    So we settled in, showered and Simon prepared a lovely lunch for us both - with a bottle of wine 🍷
    The place is stunning with fantastic views of the local countryside.
    We hope for a great nights sleep - but have heard mozzies 😳
    We shall see.
    Last walk tomorrow, then onto Finisterre on Monday before the slow trek back East.    Read more

  • Mary and SimonWalking the CaminoTraveler

    Day 84 - Vilaserio to Olveiroa

    Jul 14–15, 2024 in Spain ☁️ 17 °C

    This morning we awoke feeling a little ropey🙄 but persevered because we are hardened travellers.
    Things didn’t bode well as Simon looked out of the window to see grey, leaden skies. He was also dismayed to see how many pilgrims were already on the road!
    We had bacon butties with coffee to get us motivated and out of the door.
    We had a 20 km walk in front of us. We started bold with no ponchos but quite quickly could see the mizzle and signs of rain ahead.
    We were on a busy route and Simon got into his usual ‘race the pilgrim’ mentality- I left him to it!
    Here was some good, attractive open countryside with small settlements and farms. Some had a few loose dogs roaming around who seemed quite excitable, this was unnerving as you can’t move too fast or protect yourself with a big rucksack on your back. They turned out to be friendly enough, thank goodness 😅
    There were a lot of handsome jays on route, we also heard the frogs again in a ditch we passed that reminded us of our French walks.
    The mist and rain were upon us about a third of the way in, so we donned our ponchos- we are learning to read the sky well.
    We had quite a few long climbs on the route that led to some good views but also a stiff breeze.
    As we came out of a wood and into another settlement we came across a cafe. We decided to halt the race and stop for a coffee and a slice of chocolate cake as the bacon butties had worn off.
    A lot of other pilgrims joined us.
    The end of the walk had steep climbs and was very windy, however the rain subsided 👍
    We reached our destination- Casa Loncho which is a smart solid stone set of rooms with lovely views over the countryside.
    It has a great restaurant attached which did us a healthy salad, pizza and lasagna.
    We are hunkered in room now awaiting ‘the match’!
    We head for Finisterre tomorrow - the end of our westward journey.    Read more

  • Mary and SimonWalking the CaminoTraveler

    Day 85 - Olveiroa to Finisterre

    Jul 15–16, 2024 in Spain 🌬 17 °C

    So today we went to the end of the earth. Finisterre means the earth is finished. It is the most westerly point of Europe and was thought to be the end of the world before America was discovered. It was an important and sacred site for the ancient Celts.
    We left Olveiroa under heavy leaden skies. It had rained heavily through the night which did quell the fireworks following ‘the game’.
    It rained as we had breakfast. We braved the windy morning without ponchos and headed for the bus stop. There is a bus once a day to Finisterre and we weren’t going to miss it. A group of Spanish people turned up as the bus was due, it ended up being 10 minutes late.
    The journey was just over an hour. We got off the bus, rescued our rucksacks from the hold and headed for our hotel to see if we could leave our bags before walking west. I suddenly realised my poncho had vanished 😳 I rushed back to the bus - which hadn’t left yet but it wasn’t there , checked all around the bus station- no sign 🤷🏻‍♀️
    I had to come to terms with the fact that the gift the Camino had given me many weeks ago in my hour of need had been taken back!! I really hope wherever it dropped someone who needs it finds it 🤞
    As we still have a week to go and the weather is so unpredictable we did find a replacement in the local sports shop 😅
    Well the sun came out and we walked to the Cape de Finisterre - the most westerly point of Spain and for us the end of the Way! From now we head north and East back to Santander and home.
    A beautiful walk, beautiful views, a great end to our amazing adventure.
    Finisterre is a lovely coastal resort and we have been made to feel very welcome. We had a great lunch and a lovely walk around the harbour once we returned to town.
    Simon says it has been a fantastic adventure- but he is not a pilgrim! Just a man with a bag!!
    Tomorrow we head north for A Coruña and hope to visit the Picasso museum.    Read more

  • Mary and SimonWalking the CaminoTraveler

    Day 86 - Finisterre to A Coruna

    Jul 16–17, 2024 in Spain ☁️ 15 °C

    So we awoke to a new journey North and East. Today we awoke to a milky sunrise, had a good breakfast a bit of a chill then headed for the bus to A Coruna. This is a large city and took Simon by surprise with its size. It has the largest promenade in Europe at 8 km long and the longest serving working light house.
    Today we saw its busy streets, the retail quarter, then narrow alleyways with cafes and restaurants.
    We went to our accommodation and had a few worrying moments as they couldn’t find our booking- all got sorted 😅
    Then to find lunch. We found a great location down the alleyways - just in the nick of time as following us the hordes arrived watching and glaring waiting for a table to become free!!
    We were looked after very well until Simon committed the faux pas of walking off with the glass water bottle- we were reprimanded and Simon returned immediately with a big apologetic smile to leave the bottle safely on a table - all was groovy. They were obviously wary of Brits abroad with glass bottles- he did happen to be wearing his bucket hat 😂
    Then onto the next task of getting the washing done. We found a launderette that was being fixed by mechanics and they blew the electrics on some poor woman’s washing machine with her washing in it!! - eventually sorted but held up the process of us getting our washing done🙄
    After this we went to find the long promenade and had a good walk admiring the beach - we couldn’t believe it when we were half way to Ireland 🤣
    The day has been warm and sunny and as Spanish summer holidays are underway the beach busy. It was all clean and litter free 🙌 the Spanish take their litter home.
    After a couple of beers, time to retire to our attic bedroom! We aim to visit Picasso’s museum tomorrow. Then back to Ferrol on our journey East.    Read more

  • Mary and SimonWalking the CaminoTraveler

    Day 87 - A Coruna to Ferrol

    Jul 17–18, 2024 in Spain ☀️ 17 °C

    After a turbulent night in our attic room due to an emotional, maybe drunk, Spanish man, making a complete nuisance of himself which led to several people complaining at his door until finally (about 3am) he got dispatched elsewhere. So as you can see - no sleep was had 😳
    Despite this, today opened with blue skies and sunshine. We found a lovely coffee house for breakfast and kept to our plan of visiting Picasso’s house. Picasso lived in A Coruña for 5 years from the age of 9 to 14.
    They have preserved the house as it would have been. Interesting to see they were one of the first households to have a flushing loo!
    Then onto the bus station for a bus to Ferrol. Nothing like moving on 😉
    The sun continued to shine ☀️ and as this is our week of relaxing and recovering we have a very nice hotel room 😍
    A lovely lunch and stroll by the harbour.
    We have released the trapped hornet 🐝 out of the window!
    Now an early night - hopefully a peaceful night without fiestas, fireworks or drunken, emotional people caterwauling down the corridor, as we have an early train to catch in the morning continuing our eastward journey.    Read more

  • Mary and SimonWalking the CaminoTraveler

    Day 88 - Ferrol to La Caridad

    Jul 18–19, 2024 in Spain ☀️ 17 °C

    After a very nice breakfast in Ferrol we headed for the train station at 8 ready for our 4 hr trip to La Caridad.
    It was a trip down memory lane as we passed through many places we walked and travelled through.
    The weather was bright and sunny ☀️
    We were approaching Ribadeo when the conductor told us we all had to get off the train and wait for the next one! Fortunately not too long a delay
    We arrived in La Caridad and headed for our accommodation to be met by quite a taciturn and brusque man. He seriously took our passport information and then led us up many stairs to another sky attic room!
    We settled in then headed back into the sunshine for lunch. We found a very friendly restaurant who looked after us very well despite speaking no English. The waiter translated the specials for the day on his phone. When he came back we said what we wanted and he looked confused until Simon baaed like a lamb 🐑 it was an amazing shoulder of lamb baked with potatoes and herbs 🙌 it has gone to number one of our Spanish ‘top of the pots’ meals !!
    After lunch it was time for Mary’s treat and we hit a local beach. It was worth the walk a beautiful secluded pebbly beach with crystal clear water.
    Then back to the room for shower and chill before heading out for a relaxing beer.
    Now time for some sleep before a trip further East to Oviedo tomorrow.    Read more

  • Mary and SimonWalking the CaminoTraveler

    Day 89 - La Caridad to Oviedo

    Jul 19–20, 2024 in Spain ☀️ 23 °C

    We were up in good time to seek out a good breakfast in the town and ensure we knew the right place to catch the bus. We had a chill out in the room before final pack up and out for the bus.
    Bus was a trip down memory lane as we retraced our steps through towns and villages.
    The weather was hot!
    We got to Oviedo a new destination around 2.30, set Trevor up and had a hot half hour trek to our accommodation.
    Oviedo is a large city with a mix of old and new. It has an air of solid history and culture. Lovely big, grand buildings, lots of music to be heard, marbled pavements and a feeling of calm satisfaction.
    We feel it would be a good destination for a city break.
    We hit a launderette which made Simon very happy, he called it ʼmy beautiful launderette’!
    Then on for a couple of beers and a very good fish supper.
    We aim for a cultural day tomorrow as long as the group of young lads next door are not too noisy and we survive a night in another high room with no fire escape!
    Onwards to La Franca tomorrow!    Read more

  • Mary and SimonWalking the CaminoTraveler

    Day 90 - Oviedo to La Franca

    July 20, 2024 in Spain ⛅ 22 °C

    We had a lovely morning in Oviedo visiting the art gallery - we saw works by El Greco, Goya, Dali and many other local Spanish artists- so wonderful to appreciate all of these for free🙌🙌
    We wandered around the old quarter of town which was very charming, with its clock towers and spires and marble piazzas.
    Then time to head for the bus station. Trevor thought he would take us on a short cut - to the wrong place 😳 so in 31oc heat we had a half hour hurry to the correct place!!
    The bus journey continued our trip down memory lane traversing many places we had walked on our Camino.
    We swapped the bus for a train in Llanes where a huge party of youngsters also hit the railway station - thank goodness they were heading in the opposite direction 😅
    We headed off on the quiet train to Colombres. The heavens opened and we walked into La Franca in a rain storm.
    This was the opening gambit for the rainstorm that ensued as we met up with Lucy and Graham at the start of their holiday.
    We originally sat outside at a restaurant by their campsite but the staff quickly brought us in as the wind and deluge really got going.
    La Franca beach is a dramatic scene in its own right with a lively sea and a steep headland full of eucalyptus trees.
    It has been a very enjoyable catch up at the end of our adventure with great company, good food and wine.
    We wish Lucy and Graham a wonderful holiday as we head to our voyage home from Santander tomorrow.
    As Cilla said ‘Tarra for now’    Read more

  • Mary and SimonWalking the CaminoTraveler
    1

    Day 91+ - La Franca to Plymouth

    July 22, 2024, Bay of Biscay 🌙 20 °C

    We walked to Colombres station in sticky hot heat, meeting pilgrims who were on their way.
    The train amazingly was on time and very slowly wended its way to Santander. It was a picturesque journey of majestic mountains, fast flowing rivers and blue bays. A car journey takes 45 mins, the train took over 2 hours!! It moved very slowly indeed.
    Once in Santander we found a lunchtime deal of 3 courses for €14.
    Then onto the sea terminal and a 3 hour wait to embark on the ferry home. A nervous 3 hours as we were slightly over our 90 days and we wondered what may happen at passport control 😳🤔.
    We saw the ferry sail in and all the incoming passengers disembark, including a large school party of teenagers who had emotional reunions with their parents after an English residential.
    Eventually it was our turn to embark onto the ferry, rucksacks through the scanner and thankfully us safely through passport control with no arrests 😅.
    To Simon’s delight the ferry ⛴️ was half empty so there was plenty of room and space for everyone on board. We to wait awhile for our cabin to be ready as the staff had a huge job to turn this around from the previous passengers.
    We explored the boat and enjoyed time on the top deck in the sunshine with a couple of sun downers before heading for some food in the restaurant.
    Once the sun was gone we headed to our snug cabin for a good sleep. The thrum of the ships engine, the occasional list were quite soporific.
    Mary got up early to try and catch something of the sunrise, however all the decks were being hosed down 💦 so a quick pic and off again.
    During breakfast we saw Brest sliding by.
    After breakfast we took in a talk on the whales 🐳 and dolphins 🐬 found in that region, we then spent several hours on the lookout 👀.
    Sadly they weren’t coming out to play on this occasion!
    We spotted England coming into view from 1.30pm. Then it was time clear out of the cabin and watch Plymouth come clearly into view.
    We were in at 3.30 and off the boat, through English passport control by 4.
    It was lovely to be met by my brother Frank and his partner’s daughter George. They got a lovely photographic record of our homecoming.
    And so our journey is at an end and this is our final blog. Thank you for sharing our adventures, we have loved your encouragement, comments and interest in our Camino adventures.    Read more

    Trip end
    July 23, 2024