Chivay, Peru

Chivay to Cusco Hotel Ananay Quinta, San Blas . Guide Oscar, Driver Manuel

We were up early this morning for a 6 :00am departure from the lodge by taxi to the nearest the town of Chivay to catch the Mercedes-Benz tour bus to take us to Cusco. Our guide was Oscar and the driver’s name was Manuel.
On the way, Oscar handed out three interesting snacks. One looked like peanuts but was actually roasted corn kernels. The other one was a phenomenally rich dark chocolate bar and the other was like a rice crispy bar.

As we neared the top of the peak, elevation of 14,400 feet the geography flattened out quite a bit and we stopped for a break at same place as we did on the way to the canyon. In the distance we could see Mount Sabancaya.
Tourists had made Apachetas (Inukshuk like) piles of stones all over the hills here. Along the way, we saw many paddocks built out of stone walls to hold Llamas and Alpacas.
Mining is the main industry in Peru, predominantly copper which also contains many other valuable elements in it. The major companies working the mines are Canadian. We left the paved roads and bumped along roads under construction. At one point we saw a very bad truck accident. The truck had rolled over and shortly afterwards we saw an ambulance speed by. As we drove along, we saw many more big herds of Llamas and Alpacas

As we approached Cusco, we were down to about 12,300 feet and there was quite a difference in the vegetation; some yellow flowers or weeds and rich green tufts of native grass that looks a bit like fescue but not as high.
About 40 minutes before our lunch stop, we stopped at Lake Langui, or Little Lake. It was quite pretty, and we took a few pictures. At our lunch stop we had a choice of eating from a buffet or ordering one of several readymade sandwiches. The six of us ordered the sandwich feeling it would be faster, but they were so dry, we could hardly swallow them. Our driver, Manuel was an absolute maniac, taking way too many unnecessary chances at passing. We really feared for our lives.

Along the highway we saw large flocks of sheep, llamas and sometimes cattle being managed by a single shepherd, most of them women dressed in their traditional costume, pleated skirts, colourful top and sweater buttoned tightly in the middle, wide brimmed hat and always the wide, colourful shawl they use to carry things in, including babies on their back. It’s quite something to see them in the field all by themselves very often just standing quietly. It must be a very lonely job. Because the road straightened out and allowed faster driving speeds closer to Cusco, the driver had less need and opportunity to kill us. He must be very frustrated!

As we entered Cusco, we could see what looked like a large number of red brick homes under construction everywhere. It turns out that because lending percentage rates are not very controlled in Peru, the lenders can get up to 100%. Subsequently, people build as much as they can afford without borrowing, leave it for a while and then build a bit more when they can afford to. The result is that there are numerous buildings that look like they are either fully under construction or abandoned.

We entered the heart of the city and were met by a driver and our guide Edouardo, who will take us to Machu Picchu and hike with us up the Inca trail a few days from now. We were dropped off at our hotel which was an old house turned into a hotel. In the centre was a courtyard where we waited until our rooms were assigned. Edouardo stayed with us and talked about what we might expect on the Inca trail and also at Machu Picchu.

We settled into our rooms and then set out to go to a restaurant that Gary had researched called Cicciolina. When we arrived, we found that it would be at least a half hour wait. The manager said that he would take us to his other restaurant called Baco which served Pizza. It turned out to be quite a walk but lovely and the pizza was delicious.
Walking around Cusco in the dark is quite an experience as it is all on a hill with very narrow oneway streets, and alleged sidewalks sometimes only one foot wide. As well, you are either going up or down trying to pass people going in the opposite direction. On the way back to the hotel we were a little confused as to how to get there but finally found the right door. We now know it is a blue door so will be easier to find next time.
Another long day so right to bed.Read more