Reset search
South America Part 2
  • Don and Lee McLoughlin
Oct 2019 – Sep 2025

South America Part 2

South America . For part 2 of our trip, it was just Lee and Don. The highlights of this part were Rio de Janiero, Iguazu Falls, Buenos Aires and the 18 day Chilean Fjord cruise from Buenos Aires, around Cape Horn and back up to Santiago Read more
FollowInsightsCalendarShareShareBucket list
Newest first
  • Don and Lee McLoughlinDon and Lee McLoughlinSouth America Part 2
    On the way to see the Condors.
    Young boys and girls dance during religious rituals during the rainy season.Conception Church. I assume no relationship to previous picture.Sensational views on the way to hopefully see Condors.Gary looking fairly optimistic.Selling pictures.Route map.

    Colca Canyon, Peru

    November 7, 2019 in Peru ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    Driver Gustavo. Guide Marco

    Up at 4:45, breakfast at 5:30 and out to van at 6:30. We are off to hopefully see the Condors. Marco showed us lots of good views. First stop was in Chivay to see the children who are in their last year of Primary school, perform a dance called Wititi (weetitee), a traditional folk dance associated with the beginning of adult life. The girls wear white hats signifying the snowcapped mountains and the boys wear coloured hats that partially covered their faces and skirts of overlapping layers to disguise they are boys and get close to the girls. It is danced with rows of male and female couples performing a variety of steps to the beat of a band. Typically performed by young people during religious festivities celebrated throughout the rainy season. We then went into the Immaculate Conception Church and spent 10 minutes viewing interior.

    Next we drove along to the first stop to view the canyon which was formed by the movement of the Tectonic plate that heaved up the land 130-150 million years ago. At our viewing site it was approximately 1000 metres deep with a dried-up riverbed at this point due to an upstream dam. Marco told us about the condors. They are actually a vulture that lives up to 80 years of age and has a wingspan just over 10 feet. When it is flying it is only spread about 7-8 feet. It’s main source of food is Alpaca that the Puma’s kill and then the vultures clean up. We took a number of pictures in the area and then Marco spotted a Condor coming down the canyon, it flew by us and then after a couple of minutes it came back by us and did this a couple of times more. We were very lucky to get a few pictures as it was hard to follow in flight. Condors like this area because they can just walk to the edge of the cliffs and then drop off to catch the thermal updrafts.

    On our way back up to the van, huffing and puffing, we saw a bright yellow flower on a cactus. When this flower stops blooming a fruit develops which is called Sancayo. This fruit was used for medicinal purposes for the liver among other things but today it is used to produce a refreshing drink and ice cream. It looks a bit like a woolly round cactus. The ladies scrape off the spines and then it looks more like the outside of an avocado. Inside the fruit looks similar to kiwi fruit but is more gelatinous and quite sour. They blend it with sugar syrup and water, and it is very good.

    When we arrived at the actual viewing location it was very busy with tourists and busses. We walked around for a while and the busses thinned out and then the last 15 minutes we heard “Condor” and rushed to take pictures. This was again not easy, and we didn’t have as good luck as we had before. The one we did see was identified on the back with a yellow tag because it had been rehabilitated after an accident and was being watched by the condor care people.
    We drove along further to a stand selling the Sancayo and watched as the lady blended it for us. While we were there Lee talked to a fellow from Santander, Spain and then a couple joined her and they were from Barcelona and were very nice, with good English.

    We then returned to Maca, which we had passed on our way to see the canyon and bought Sancayo Helado (the Spanish for ice cream). We enjoyed it while walking up a slope looking into the souvenir stalls. Just at the end Lee spotted some belts and called Don over to take a look. While he was browsing Lee thought she would buy a holder for her water bottle,but ended up with an embroidered purse which held both her bottle and her iPad as well as the belt Don purchased. We then returned by bus to our hotel. Don and Lee ordered a lunch at the restaurant of a Peruvian chicken Caesar salad and a jug of minted lemonade, we sat out on the porch looking over the valley. We find we are constantly thirsty and sour things seem to help.
    We watched people zip lining across the valley to a spot above and behind us. We went for a hot spring tub, and then to the dining room for another delicious dinner. Early to bed again as we have an early start to Cusco.    Read more

  • Don and Lee McLoughlinDon and Lee McLoughlinSouth America Part 2
    Oscar was somewhat controlling but very entertaining
    Laughing at Oscar's jokes.Mount Sabancaya.More ApacuetasVicunasLlamas.Vicunas

    Chivay, Peru

    November 8, 2019 in Peru ⋅ ⛅ 11 °C

    Chivay to Cusco Hotel Ananay Quinta, San Blas . Guide Oscar, Driver Manuel

    We were up early this morning for a 6 :00am departure from the lodge by taxi to the nearest the town of Chivay to catch the Mercedes-Benz tour bus to take us to Cusco. Our guide was Oscar and the driver’s name was Manuel.
    On the way, Oscar handed out three interesting snacks. One looked like peanuts but was actually roasted corn kernels. The other one was a phenomenally rich dark chocolate bar and the other was like a rice crispy bar.

    As we neared the top of the peak, elevation of 14,400 feet the geography flattened out quite a bit and we stopped for a break at same place as we did on the way to the canyon. In the distance we could see Mount Sabancaya.
    Tourists had made Apachetas (Inukshuk like) piles of stones all over the hills here. Along the way, we saw many paddocks built out of stone walls to hold Llamas and Alpacas.
    Mining is the main industry in Peru, predominantly copper which also contains many other valuable elements in it. The major companies working the mines are Canadian. We left the paved roads and bumped along roads under construction. At one point we saw a very bad truck accident. The truck had rolled over and shortly afterwards we saw an ambulance speed by. As we drove along, we saw many more big herds of Llamas and Alpacas

    As we approached Cusco, we were down to about 12,300 feet and there was quite a difference in the vegetation; some yellow flowers or weeds and rich green tufts of native grass that looks a bit like fescue but not as high.
    About 40 minutes before our lunch stop, we stopped at Lake Langui, or Little Lake. It was quite pretty, and we took a few pictures. At our lunch stop we had a choice of eating from a buffet or ordering one of several readymade sandwiches. The six of us ordered the sandwich feeling it would be faster, but they were so dry, we could hardly swallow them. Our driver, Manuel was an absolute maniac, taking way too many unnecessary chances at passing. We really feared for our lives.

    Along the highway we saw large flocks of sheep, llamas and sometimes cattle being managed by a single shepherd, most of them women dressed in their traditional costume, pleated skirts, colourful top and sweater buttoned tightly in the middle, wide brimmed hat and always the wide, colourful shawl they use to carry things in, including babies on their back. It’s quite something to see them in the field all by themselves very often just standing quietly. It must be a very lonely job. Because the road straightened out and allowed faster driving speeds closer to Cusco, the driver had less need and opportunity to kill us. He must be very frustrated!

    As we entered Cusco, we could see what looked like a large number of red brick homes under construction everywhere. It turns out that because lending percentage rates are not very controlled in Peru, the lenders can get up to 100%. Subsequently, people build as much as they can afford without borrowing, leave it for a while and then build a bit more when they can afford to. The result is that there are numerous buildings that look like they are either fully under construction or abandoned.

    We entered the heart of the city and were met by a driver and our guide Edouardo, who will take us to Machu Picchu and hike with us up the Inca trail a few days from now. We were dropped off at our hotel which was an old house turned into a hotel. In the centre was a courtyard where we waited until our rooms were assigned. Edouardo stayed with us and talked about what we might expect on the Inca trail and also at Machu Picchu.

    We settled into our rooms and then set out to go to a restaurant that Gary had researched called Cicciolina. When we arrived, we found that it would be at least a half hour wait. The manager said that he would take us to his other restaurant called Baco which served Pizza. It turned out to be quite a walk but lovely and the pizza was delicious.
    Walking around Cusco in the dark is quite an experience as it is all on a hill with very narrow oneway streets, and alleged sidewalks sometimes only one foot wide. As well, you are either going up or down trying to pass people going in the opposite direction. On the way back to the hotel we were a little confused as to how to get there but finally found the right door. We now know it is a blue door so will be easier to find next time.
    Another long day so right to bed.    Read more

    See translation
  • Don and Lee McLoughlinDon and Lee McLoughlinSouth America Part 2
    Looks like Gary didn't like the Pizza!
    Part of the Grind up.Mike and Judy slogging it up as well.Incredible intricate and accurate Inca architectureLookout over Cusco.Cusco from Sacsayhuuaman.

    Cusco, Peru

    November 9, 2019 in Peru ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

    Free day in Cusco. Hotel Ananay Quinta San Blas

    We had an unhurried breakfast and then set off for the Plaza des Armas to find the Scotiabank and the Tourist site to buy a ticket that will let us into many different Inca sites and museums over the next 10 days.
    The walk down 3 or 4 blocks involved navigating very narrow streets with cars going down and very narrow sidewalks, made of cobblestones, and steep steps down, as everything is on a hill. We also had to go around ladies with Llamas and Alpacas who want you to take a picture and pay for it. We are in a very different country and loving it.

    Once our transactions were complete, we headed back up to the hotel to drop off our money and pick up our backpacks to go on a hike to test out how we handle the altitude and walking up many steps in preparation for doing the 12 km of the Inca trail. Gary said that if we could handle that, we could probably handle the Inca Trail. Before we left, we decided to eat the leftover pizza from the night before and oranges purchased in Arequipa and then we had a little rain so a change of clothing and finally after fiddling around for at least an hour, we set out for our walking adventure.

    We walked uphill on both cobblestone roads and many steps for about 20 minutes, stopping to catch our breath as we went. Another 20 minutes and we reached the entrance to the site called Sacsayhuaman (many different spellings for this site) Pronounced a bit like Sexywoman, which is the second largest Inca site next to Machu Picchu. It covered 2000 square meters within a 3000 Hectare park. We started hiking up some more grades that Gary and Karina said would be similar to the Trail. Most of these steps in the rock were much higher than the normal step height. It was difficult and we had to keep stopping to get our breath, but we made it to the site. With Gary’s help he asked a taxi driver if he could find an English-speaking guide and he found Amelia who was wonderful, a bit quiet but very knowledgeable.

    Sacsayhuaman is located 2km. from the city. In 1983, together with the city of Cusco, this monumental complex was considered the first of the new seven wonders of the world. The Incas called it the House of the Sun and the Spaniards called it a fortress because of its zigzag shape. The construction, which is made up of three platforms one on top of the other, was one of the most important religious complexes of its time. The enormous boulders that form part of the construction were put together perfectly without using mortar. The heaviest weighs up to 125 tons. Archaeologists are currently excavating and have discovered water fountains, canals and rooms. The site is at an altitude of 3,701 m. It is located on a steep hill that overlooks the city. The fortified complex has a wide view of the valley to the southeast. Archeological studies of surface collections of pottery at Sacsayhuamán indicate that the earliest occupation of the hilltop dates to about 900 CE. According to Inca oral history, Tupac Inca "remembered that his father Pachacuti had called the city of Cuzco, the lion city. He said that the tail was where the two rivers unite which flow through it, that the body was the great square and the houses round it, and that the head was wanting." The Inca decided the "best head would be to make a fortress on a high plateau to the north of the city. However, archeologists have found that Sacsayhuamán area was originally built by the preceding Killke culture. On 13 March 2008, archaeologists discovered additional ruins at the periphery of Sacsayhuamán. They are believed to have been built by the Killke culture, which preceded the Inca. While appearing to be ceremonial in nature, the exact function remains unknown. These structures occupied the site for hundreds of years before the Inca, between 900 and 1200 AD. The Inca expanded on what they found, beginning about the 13th century.

    Francisco Pizarro (Spanish Conquestor) sent men to transport the gold and silver from the Temple of Coricancha to Cajamarca a city in northern Peru and the base of the Spanish encampment. They found the Temple of the Sun "covered with plates of gold", which the Spanish ordered removed. Seven hundred plates were removed and added to two hundred trucks of gold transported back to Cajamarca.

    The best-known zone of Sacsayhuamán includes its great plaza, capable of holding thousands of people, and well designed for ceremonial activities, used during rituals. The stones used in the construction of these terraces are among the largest used in any building in pre-Hispanic America. They display a precision of fitting that is unmatched in the Americas. The stones are so closely spaced that a single piece of paper will not fit between many of the stones. This precision, combined with the rounded corners of the blocks, the variety of their interlocking shapes, and the way the walls lean inward, is thought to have helped the ruins survive devastating earthquakes in Cuzco. The longest of the three walls is about 400 meters. They are about 6 meters tall. The estimated volume of stone is over 6,000 cubic meters. Estimates for the weight of the largest blocks vary from 128 tonnes to almost 200 tonnes.

    The Inca used similar construction techniques in building Sacsayhuamán as they used on all their stonework, albeit on a far more massive scale. The stones were rough-cut to the approximate shape in the quarries using river cobbles. They were dragged by rope to the construction site, a feat that at times required hundreds of men. The stones were shaped into their final form at the building site and then laid in place. The work, while supervised by Inca architects, was largely carried out by groups of individuals fulfilling their labor obligations to the state. In this system of mita or "turn" labor, each village or ethnic group provided a certain number of individuals to participate in such public works projects. Although multiple regions might provide labor for a single, large-scale state project, the ethnic composition of the work-gangs remained intact, as different groups were assigned different tasks.

    Following the siege of Cusco, the Spaniards began to use Sacsayhuamán as a source of stones for building Spanish Cuzco; within a few years, they had taken apart and demolished much of the complex. The site was destroyed block by block to build the new Spanish governmental and religious buildings of the colonial city, as well as the houses of the wealthiest Spaniards. There is not a house in the city that has not been made of this stone, or at least the houses built by the Spaniards. Today, only the stones that were too large to be easily moved remain at the site.

    Among all the fascinating ruins, we came upon rock slides in the area called the Rodadero Hill, a series of smooth rock channels that run down one section of the rock hill. The well-polished slides are a strange, incongruous sight among the straight lines of monumental Inca architecture. Even more inconsistent with Sacsayhuamán’s general vibe of military power and somber ceremony are the kids—and adults—happily sliding their way down the rock chutes. that were supposedly off limits to adventurists.

    After our very informative walk around the site with our guide Amelia, we made our way back down, and on the way, we came upon a funeral being conducted outside a house. We did not feel we should take any pictures, so we just waited until they carried the coffin off to the sounds of music. We stopped and rested and had our bars for a snack at a curve in the road. We were all fairly tired after our climbing and walking around at the 3700 meter elevation.

    We finally returned to our hotel and had a little lie down before heading out for dinner. We tried one restaurant called the Uchu Steakhouse, but it was already booked up, so we went along to another called Inkazuela and it turned out to be great. Their main courses were all meals in a pot like casseroles. We each ordered something different and we all raved about how good our meal was. We walked back up the winding narrow streets back to the hotel and right to sleep.    Read more

  • Don and Lee McLoughlinDon and Lee McLoughlinSouth America Part 2
    Waiting for the parade to begin.
    Military contingent, not sure why the goose step.Mike and Judy 1/4 in from the right.Colourful, but not quite goose stepping.Our guide.Selling corn.And great looking bread.Lee at Inca wall on Hatunrumiyoc.

    Cusco, Peru

    November 10, 2019 in Peru ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    On our way to a free walking tour of Cusco, we went to the Plaza de Armas, the main town square, and saw thousands and thousands of people there with music and marching bands. Every Sunday they have a huge parade and local schools, military personnel, local politicians and bands are invited, on a rotating basis, to participate. The parade lasts at least an hour and a half, and everybody takes it extremely seriously.

    We met our red shirted guide, at 9:20 and started our tour. The original town of Cusco was only about 12 blocks by 8 blocks and had a population of 20,000 people. It is now 400,000. In the early days, ritual offerings consisting of meat, bread and symbols of the important things of their lives would be presented always at sunrise in the Plaza, and always facing the east.

    Our guide commented on the ridiculous price of coffee at coffee shops. He said that you could buy one kilogram of coffee in the local market at 25 SOLES which is just under eight dollars. The price for a cup of coffee at a coffee shop could get as high as, you guessed it, eight dollars!

    The original Inca houses were only one story high. The town walls were much higher. A picture of Lee standing at the corner of one of the many remaining Inca walls shows how big the stones were. They are so huge that it seems almost impossible that they could have been moved. They are also perfectly shaped and notched to fit each other. In every case the walls lean in to minimize wall crumbling or bursting out during earthquakes. Virtually all the walls in Cusco and at the major Inca historical sites in Peru have survived earthquakes as high as 7.8 on the Richter scale. Some of the stones are slightly rough on the surface, the result of the chiselling that they used to form them. Others are remarkably smooth, achieved by sandpaper like abrasion using very fine river stone.

    During the 400 or so years at the height of the Inca influence between 1350 and 1450, there were approximately 10,000 royalty. When one of their sons was born, they would be given a 1/2 acre of property but when they died, they had to give it back to the government. Therefore, there was no private property.

    We visited a courtyard that had both llamas and Alpacas. Llamas are the taller of the two, their ears are laid back and can carry up to 25 kg of cargo. Anything over that they just refuse to move. Alpacas are shorter and are sheared every 2 to 4 years, their ears are short and stand up. They are both of the camelid family. Another member of this family is the Vicuna. They are the slightest of the three, rather like small white tail deer and they are a national treasure protected by law. Their hair is so fine that it commands $3000 for fleece which is sheared every 2-3 years. The babies are so agile that they can walk five minutes after birth. Clothing made of the Vicuna hair is usually the natural brown colour and a scarf costs $1700.00 and up.

    Guinea pig is a Peruvian delicacy. It is called Cuy (Kwee). The reason they are so popular is because they grow particularly well at this altitude, they don’t take up much space and they don’t eat much. We had Guinea pig earlier. He also talked about quinoa which was used like milk 25 years ago and only farmers would eat it. However, after the astronauts took it to space in 2015 because the seeds are rich in protein, dietary fiber, B vitamins, and dietary minerals, it became very popular. It grows easily in unfavourable conditions, is easy to prepare and stores very well. It is extremely popular in third world counties as well as North America and is now a staple of Peru.

    The women on the streets, in the Plaza, and even in the fields, wear colourful clothing consisting of wide brim hats (with a profile not unlike a pilgrim’s hat), pleated skirts and a colourful wide shawl (called Lliklla) that they use across their shoulders to help carry things either in front or behind them. Many of them carry their babies, hammock style, on their back. To get it into position, they put the baby in the shawl in front of them and deftly swing it up and around their head so that they end up carrying the baby on their back. I wonder what the practice sessions were like when they were first learning to do that!

    We saw the remains of a palace where there were eight rooms per block, with an open quadrangle in the middle. It was closed on Sunday but because you could look through the glass walls surrounding it, we could see most of the area. One of the churches in a plaza just a couple of blocks from our hotel was built between the 16th and the 17th century and was called San Blas. It had a lovely wall behind it of cascading water. Every time we went by, there were lots of people on the steps and lots of cars stopped waiting to pick up passengers.

    Our guide talked to us about Cocoa leaves. Chewing them allows the workers to work harder and longer and reduces hunger and thirst. Chewing the leaves was even better than making cocoa tea. Lee and I have had many cups of cocoa tea but have not chewed the leaves.

    The final leg of our walking tour was to climb a set of stairs 105 steps high to an amazing lookout over Cusco with the traditional red clay terra-cotta roofing tiles. Up another few steps and we were at a bar where we were all treated to a small Pisco Sour. The barmaid mixed the Pisco sours for our group from scratch and explained each of the ingredients as she went along. After receiving our drinks, we spent some very comfortable time looking out over the town. We said goodbye to our guide there and tipped him handsomely for his services following which we walked back down the hill to the hotel.

    That evening we were pretty tired and opted to go to a Peruvian type hamburger restaurant that Gary and Karina found. We did indeed order hamburgers with French Fries. They were delicious, tender and flavoured with local spices so that it didn’t taste like a normal hamburger from North America. The restaurant was a very popular place with quite a few people from hostels coming to enjoy a reasonably inexpensive meal.    Read more

  • Don and Lee McLoughlinDon and Lee McLoughlinSouth America Part 2
    Train arriving at Poroy train station.
    Mixed anticipation.Very bright and comfortable on board.Domes helped to see higher views.Gary and Karina, the youth movement.We are committed now. Train departing from our drop off point.Immediate bridge to cross.Ruins of Chachabamaba

    Machu Picchu, Peru

    November 11, 2019 in Peru ⋅ ❄️ -1 °C

    Cusco to Inca trail to Machu Picchu. Guide Eduardo. Hotel El Mapi by Inkaterra

    We had a very early morning pick up by Eduardo at 4:30 am to drive to Poroy Train Station (a 20-minute trip from Cusco. Driving through the dark streets we could see women sitting outside stalls and on street corners with their bundles of goods to sell when the city woke up. The train arrived and we got on the special car that had the special viewing dome. The hotel had packed a very tasty breakfast and the train served hot drinks. The views along the way with the fast-flowing river and steep mountains were very picturesque. After about an hour the train stopped at what is called 104Km and we (Judy, Don, Gary, Karina and Lee) with backpacks and poles in hand, jumped off, literally, as there was no step down from the train. We waved goodbye to Mike who was going on to the hotel in Machu Picchu where we would meet up with him at the end of the day. Eduardo gave us a few minutes to set up our walking poles and then we walked across a suspension bridge to the admission gate.

    The hike was a total of 12 km long and was probably the most challenging thing Judy, Lee and I had ever done. Firstly, because it was seriously rough terrain up and down over 12 km with the elevation changes from 2100 m at start to 2899 m. at Winay Wanya ,our stop for lunch, then down to 2745 m at the Sun Gate and then down to 2445m where the bus took us down to the hotel. Secondly because Judy had a knee replacement only 6 months earlier, Lee, because she is in bad need of a second hip replacement and Don because he has problems with heights and cliff edges. The three of us were very happy with our new hiking boots and the walking poles we had purchased, without which, I think we would still be there. Gary and Karina did not use poles and at half our age were not quite as physically challenged as we were.

    Our first stop was at the site of recently restored Inca ruins of Chachabamba, only about 15 minutes along the way. These ruins, discovered in 1940, are located on the old Inca road that ran along the southern bank of the Urubamba River. The style of buildings and stonework suggest that this used to be an important religious site, as well as having the secondary function as a gate house guarding Machu Picchu above. Chachabamba is set at elevation of 2,150m. Chachabamba, a Quechua word which means valley of trees. From the type of architecture, structures and distribution, probably it was a religious center where the Incas performed ceremonies dedicated to the Mother Nature. In the middle of the construction there is a square that holds an altar carved on natural rock. A few meters from here there are several ceremonial water baths. Probably the place where the Inca pilgrims took purification in order to clean the soul before arriving at Machu Picchu.

    The zone of Chachabamba is in a very fertile valley, a great place to grow tropical and subtropical food and plants, sweet potato, yucca, and medicinal plants.

    At Chachabamba there is a control point for the trekkers; here you have to show the permits for the climb and the entrance to the national park of Machu Picchu. The weather is normally warm and tropical due to the location; it’s surrounded by a pristine forest.

    From there things got more strenuous as we ascended through tropical rain forests with continually fantastic views, most of which Don missed. He has difficulty coping with being on the edge of drop offs which might just lead to a life ending experience, which well describes a lot of the trails we were on. Leaning towards the safety of the mountains, which was usually on our left, not looking down but rather to the safety of the rocks on the left, and Gary’s incessant babble kept him going. We saw lots of orchids and other flowers. It was a constant drizzle all morning until just after our lunch break 3 ½ hours into the trek which helped prevent us from overheating. In addition to our guide Eduardo, we had a young man who served as our porter and, with his very small frame, he remarkably carried our box lunches and a bit of extra water with no effort at all.

    The trail was usually narrow, sometimes only 2-3 feet wide, almost never flat and the ups and downs involved seriously steep steps, often with a rise of 16-20 inches, both going up and down. Missteps, particularly going down would have resulted in tragic results. As a result, part of the fatigue we were feeling was not just because of the altitude, and steepness, but frankly, because it was exhausting just to keep concentrating. At one point, our guide took our poles and told us we had to climb the next “stairs” on our hands and feet. I would guess the length of the stairs was about 100 feet and the rise could have been easily 40 feet. Don took some very unflattering pictures of this ascent. We stopped for a snack break along the way and then after climbing up many terraces we finally broke for lunch.

    The box lunches were quite elaborate, and the energy source was welcome. We were warned in advance that there were no washroom facilities until we got to our lunch break at Winay Wayna at an altitude of 2899 m. Because of the need to keep hydrated, some of us had to stop for a pee break on the side of the mountain pressed tightly into the bank on the “upside”. From here we continued to the peak altitude of 2720 m. to what the literature describes as “a final set of stairs” (misleading in the extreme) to arrive at Inti Punku, (Quechua words for Sun Gate). From here we got our first views of Machu Picchu and it was quite exhilarating even if a bit cloudy. It was quite a celebration; when anyone reached this point, everyone including people from some of the other groups were congratulating everyone for making it this far. Little did we know that the descent down would be a long series of steep ups and downs which made for an exhausting trek. And so it was, that after 9 ½ hours, we finally reached the bottom and even in our tired state, we had to really scurry to catch the last bus down to the village. On one 1/2 of a hip, Lee rushed ahead to make sure the bus did not leave without us. We descended in the bus, on switchbacks, back down to the valley floor and then had a short walk up to our hotel which seemed to be miles away. Mike was in the lobby waiting for us. We had no time to waste as dinner was booked for ½ hour away. Previous to this, because of the altitude, most of us were drinking very little alcohol, if any, but that night Don had a celebratory Martini. We were equally exhausted and exhilarated. Everyone headed to bed right after dinner.
    Lee however decided to go up to the fifth floor and had a sauna and a hot tub. Heaven for her after a very tough day.    Read more

  • Don and Lee McLoughlinDon and Lee McLoughlinSouth America Part 2
    Catching the bus back up to tour Machu Picchu.
    'What do you mean, you've lost your ticket?"Plaque honoring Hiram Bingham.Eduardo explains about Machu Piccchu.While we listed and take a break.Eduardo was so knowledgableLlamas have the right of way!Karina introduces herself.

    Machu Picchu, Peru

    November 12, 2019 in Peru ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C

    Machu Picchu Hotel El Mapi by Inkaterra Guide. Eduardo

    We were up early and down for breakfast, all doing quite well considering the hike we did the day before. Eduardo met us at the hotel and we walked/ran down to board the bus headed to actually tour the Machu Picchu site. Judy in her panic thought she had lost her ticket that Edouardo had just given her, but he said, “I know you have it and we will find it”. Of course, we did, she had just tucked it into a different spot. We boarded the bus to start the trip back up to the entrance to the Main Gates. I didn’t count the switchbacks but there were a lot. When we reached the gates, it was crazy busy and of course we all had to use the washrooms. As well, we had the opportunity to have our passports stamped as having been to Machu Picchu, so that took even more time. Eduardo was so patient with us and we finally were ready to set off. He knew exactly where to take us, and we followed him like sheep through the hordes of people.

    Once we were in a very quiet space, Eduardo had us sit down, catch our breath while he proceeded to tell us his rendition about the mountain from his point of view as an indigenous person.

    Machu Picchu is often referred to as the "Lost City of the Incas", but in fact, it is the most familiar icon of Inca civilization. The Incas built the city around 1450 but abandoned it a century later at the time of the Spanish conquest. The Incas built the city on a mountain ridge, 2430m above sea level. They lived there between 1200 and 1450 AD. Construction appears to date from two great Inca rulers, Pachacuti Inca Yupanqui (1438–1471) and his son, Túpac Inca Yupanqui (1472–1493) There is consensus among archaeologists that Pachacuti ordered the construction of the royal estate for himself, most likely after a successful military campaign. Though Machu Picchu is considered to be a "royal" estate, surprisingly, it would not have been passed down in the line of succession. Rather it was used for 80 years before being abandoned, seemingly because of the Spanish Conquests in other parts of the Inca Empire. It is possible that most of its inhabitants died from smallpox introduced by travelers before the Spanish conquistadors arrived in the area. The Spanish never found Machu Picchu during their occupation.

    Machu Picchu is very difficult to get to because it is so high in the mountains. It has only one way in and a stone wall to protect it. Most people in the world did not know it was there until a Yale graduate named Hiram Bingham III discovered it in 1911. Bingham asked farmer and innkeeper Melchor Arteaga if he knew of any nearby ruins. Arteaga said he knew of excellent ruins on the top of Huayna Picchu. At the top of the mountain, they came across a small hut occupied by a couple of Quechua, Richard and Alvarez, who were farming some of the original Machu Picchu agricultural terraces that they had cleared four years earlier. Alvarez's 11-year-old son, Pablito, led Bingham along the ridge to the main ruins. The ruins were mostly covered with vegetation except for the cleared agricultural terraces and clearings used by the farmers as vegetable gardens. Because of the overgrowth, Bingham was not able to observe the full extent of the site. Bingham returned to Machu Picchu in 1912 under the sponsorship of Yale University and National Geographic and made a deal with the government to take artifacts to the Peabody Museum at Yale University for study. In December 2011 the university gave back thousands of ceramics, jewelry and human bones from the Peabody Museum at Yale to the International Center for the Study of Machu Picchu and Inca Culture.
    The city is a complex of over 200 dwellings, cosisting of houses and temples. There are caves, a park, agricultural terraces, waterways, fountains, and a rock quarry where much of the construction materials were extracted.
    Behind the main parts of the city, there is a high abrupt cliff, which is called Huayna Picchu or Waynapicchu. "Machu Picchu" means "Old Peak", "Huayna Picchu" means "Young Peak".

    The Agricultural Sector
    Located in the southeastern part, it comprises many agricultural terraces, which were also equipped with aqueducts for watering.
    Also, in this sector, there is a Guard Hut, a Cemetery, a Funeral Rock and the City Gate. The agricultural terraces have 120 steps (terraces). The height of the terraces varies. Some of them are up to 4 m high. And some of them are right above the deep Urubamba Valley. The terraces have been constructed rather on the mountain sides than on the top.

    The Guard House/Watchman's Hut (Casa del Vigilante)
    This is the most prominent building, located in a strategically, on high ground from where the Incas could observe the Urban Sector and a large part of the Agricultural Sector.

    The Funeral Rock
    It is right near the Guard House. it's a huge stone. Human remains were found near it, proving that burials were made in the proximity. Some stones found nearby contain grooves, which could mean that they were used in sacrifices. Some specialists say that certain carvings in rocks were made for blood drainage or for placing human or animal bodies in it. Though there is no concrete evidence that the Incas made human sacrifices in Machu Picchu, we know that animal sacrifices were very frequent and considered as requirements by the gods in Inca religion.

    The Urban Sector
    Occupies the biggest part of Machu Picchu and is situated northeast of the agricultural sector.
    It is the part richest in attractions in the whole of Machu Picchu. This is the core of the city.
    The urban part of Machu Picchu is divided into 3 districts. These are the Sacred District or Religious District, the Popular District, and the District of Priests and Nobility (also called Royal District).

    The Popular District/Residential District is not the only residential area of Machu Picchu, but it is named this, because most houses are located here. The lower-class Incas might have had their homes in this district.
    The buildings here are simple houses and storage buildings.

    The construction of the Sacred District was motivated by religion. The Incas always had a special place in their cities for the mystical practices and rituals. This is the location of the famous Intihuatana Stone, the Temple of the Sun, the Temple of the Three Windows. Religious rituals took place on the Sacred Plaza and the surrounding buildings. High level Incas would have attended these rituals. Part of the hill still has rocks standing out of it, naturally and, there are several terraces on the sides as well. Machu Picchu has the only sacred Intihuatana Stone in all of Peru that wasn't destroyed by the Spanish. Unfortunately, on September 08, 2000, during the filming of a beer commercial the Intihuatana stone was irreparably damaged. The southern upper vertex of the stone was damaged when the arm of a crane fell upon it.

    The District of Priests and Nobility/Royal District
    It is located between the Temple of the Sun (in the Sacred District) and the baths, close to the Sacred Plaza. The high-class Incas lived here. The rich, the leaders, the priests and possibly the emperor might have lived here too.
    The houses in this part are located in rows, constructed on a slope. The Residence of Wise Persons or the Residence of Amautas) has distinguishable reddish walls. The zone of the ñustas (sort-of princesses, high-ranked young ladies) has trapezoidal roomed buildings.
    This sector dedicated to the high-level Incas has larger, roomier buildings, when compared to those in the Popular District, where the "normal people" lived. There is a Main Building, probably a temple, with a large stone in its center. The rock might have been a table or altar. Some think that it was used for sacrifices.
    Another building is the Monumental Mausoleum, which is a large stone block with carved walls and vaulted interior.

    The Rock Quarry
    It is located on a high hill in the center of the Urban Sector that was used for extracting the construction materials used for the buildings.
    Scientists are still speculating about how the blocks were extracted and cut.
    The quarry was left there in the middle of the city, more proof that Machu Picchu's construction wasn't finished and that it had been abandoned.

    The Main Temple
    It is located near the Temple of the Three Windows. The building has partly intact walls, which are reclined, the stones moved out of place. The walls have niches in them. The Incas used these niches in which to place huacas, or sacred objects. There is a platform at the bottom of the "black wall". This platform looks like a stone bench or a stone bed and is considered to be the "sacristy" of the Main Temple. The Temple of the Three Windows is a Wayrana-type temple. This means that it only has 3 walls, built with rectangular stones. It has 7 trapezoidal niches in its main wall and 5 on each sidewall. The building lacks a 4th wall. Specialists say that it might not have been finished. It might be a sign of the fact that the population had abandoned city.

    The Sacred Plaza
    It is located on top of a natural hill. On that hill you see the famous Intihuatana Stone.
    Buildings nearby have the finest carved stones and are very carefully put together.
    Religious rituals had taken place on the Sacred Plaza and the surrounding buildings. High level Incas would have attended these rituals. Part of the hill still has rocks standing out of it, naturally and, there are several terraces on the sides as well.

    The Intihuatana (Intiwatana) Stone
    The exact purpose of this stone is not known. It must have been some sort of an astronomical or archaeological object. Some specialists believe that it was used for determining the solstices by tracking the sun rays. When there was no shadow cast, then there was solstice (daytime equaled nighttime and the sun gets right above heads on midday). The Intihuatana site is the only one well-preserved. All others found by the Spaniards in the other Inca cities were partially or completely destroyed. Unfortunately, during the filming of a beer commercial in 2000, a crane fell on the Intihuatana, damaging it. Some tourists think the rock has special powers and will fill them with energy, therefore they put their hands on it. The stone is surrounded by a rope fence and you are not allowed to climb or step on it. However, it is generally allowed to put hands on it.

    The Temple of the Sun/Sun Temple
    Semi-circular building located on the lower part of a hill, near the Ritual Fountains and the Royal Tomb. The temple could have been an astronomical observatory.
    It is believed that high level Incas had their residences in this area.

    The Ritual Fountains
    Fresh water for the population came from these fountains. The water cascades down across several stone constructions.

    The Condor Temple
    According to the specialists, it was a torture chamber. Between the stone-carved "wings of the condor", there is a chamber with grooves. It is believed that the grooves were carved in order to drive the flowing blood of the victim into the pit. To the Incas, the condor was the symbol of cruel justice. Some specialists consider that the Condor Temple was primarily used for animal sacrifices. And, probably it was never used for human sacrifices.

    We walked through and around all of these sites and the marvel of how all this was built will always be with us. It was quite a warm day and by noon hour the crowds were thinning. We stayed until 1:00 and then made our way back down to the bus area to descend the switchback road to the city below.

    Edouardo took us to a lovely restaurant called the Indio Feliz where we had an incredible Peruvian lunch. We asked Edourado about his life and family and he graciously answered all our questions. All too soon we had to leave and return to our hotel and say our sad goodbyes to Edouardo; no words can describe how wonderful he was as a guide and such a gentle but strong person. We spent the rest of the afternoon talking about our wonderful time here and packing our bags for our return to Cusco, via train, the next morning. We wandered around the town and then we had dinner in the hotel again and headed off to bed.    Read more

  • Don and Lee McLoughlinDon and Lee McLoughlinSouth America Part 2
    Lee drops orange, skin and all, into neat juice maker.
    Found emanada stall for todays snacksLee's new colour matched and Machu Picchu logoed hatOn train headed to Cusco.Peruvian Shaman starts fashion show on train.Lee bought this one.Don bought this one.The End.

    Machu Picchu to Cusco, Peru

    November 13, 2019 in Peru ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C

    Train ride From Machu Picchu to Cusco. Private Car to House, Casa Killaunu in the Sacred Valley.

    We had breakfast at the hotel, and they had a rather unique orange juice machine that fascinated Don. After breakfast, Lee, Judy and Don went looking for, and found, some empanadas that we could eat on the train taking us from Machu Picchu to Cusco that morning. Right near the food stall was another stall selling, among other things, wide brimmed hats. Lee bought a lovely mauve one with the Machu Picchu logo on the front.

    The train ride was a great adventure. After serving us some refreshments they put on a remarkable fashion show accompanied by some very lively music and a person dressed up like a Peruvian Shaman. The young lady who had been our server, modeled many different outfits, shawls and sweaters, and Lee bought a poncho sweater that could be changed to give at least 5 different styles. The young man modeled many scarves and sweaters and Don bought one of them. We had arranged to have a driver pick us up at the Cusco railway station and drive us directly to our 4-night house rental “Casa Killaunu” in The Sacred Valley near Ollantaytambo.
    We were met at the train station by our driver and van. When he turned off the main road, he had to constantly stop and ask for directions. The roads were very narrow and rough, making us think that there must be some mistake, but we finally found the house which turned out to be fantastic!

    Adam, the property manager, met us at the gate, let us in and explained the workings of the house. Don and Lee got the large master bedroom upstairs, Judy and Mike and Gary and Karina took the two very spacious double rooms on the main floor. When the trip was being planned, we were offered the services of a cook to come in to do meals for us including dinner the first night. There were 2 girls who came to prepare the food and the cook. The quality and size of the portions were over the top. And the price was exceptional value. Later into our dinner, there was a violent thunder, lightning and rainstorm and the power went out. We made do with our iPhone lights and a few candles. Unfortunately, after we all went to bed, the roof over Gary and Karina’s room leaked badly causing Karina’s bed to be soaked and made for some impromptu reorganizing of sleeping arrangements. Gary just moved the dry bed out of the way of the leak for Karina, and he slept on the couch in the living room. We were oblivious to all of this going on downstairs and only found out the next morning.    Read more

  • Don and Lee McLoughlinDon and Lee McLoughlinSouth America Part 2
    Lee bought bracelets for Lilah and Callie from this little girl
    Skylodge Adventure Suites 5-star hotel. Access by Zip LineOllantaytambo Inca ruins.One of many pictures of Ollantaytambo Inca ruins.Needed a rest.Ceremonial fountains.Souvenirs everywhere.

    Ollantaytabo, Sacred Valley, Peru

    November 14, 2019 in Peru ⋅ ☁️ 9 °C

    Sacred Valley. House: Casa Killaunu Ollantaytambo.

    Today we planned a trip to another Inca archeological site, Ollantaytambo. Our driver, who spoke no English, picked us up in the morning and headed to the site. Along the way we spotted some structures high up on a cliff. The unique “hanging” hotel, which is made up of four transparent pods suspended by cables, 400 metres above the ground. You can only get there after you climb 400 meters up the rock face or hike a challenging trail featuring a zip-line network. Check out Skylodge Adventure Suites Peru. Our driver stopped and we got out to take a closer look. It sure is not for anyone who does not like heights.

    While we were parked a little girl came along and showed us some woven bracelets, of course I had to buy some.
    We arrived at the Ollantaytambo site and while we were checking in several guides came to offer their services. We declined as we were prepared to do this on our own. Mike did not want to climb, and Don wasn’t sure he wanted to go very far up either. Gary and Karina were keen to go so they started, and Judy and I said we would just go a little way at our own speed. As it turned out Judy and I made it to the top and said that was it for us. We took our time coming back down as the steps were very steep and nothing to hang on to. Gary and Karena continued on across the top and came down further over and met us at the site base. We wandered around the market and bought a few Peruvian woven placemats and table runner. I enjoyed bartering and the rest left me to get the price I wanted. From there the four of us took a taxi back down to the town and enjoyed browsing the large market there. Gary and Karina decided to walk back down to the town and really had an adventure but said that they were glad that Judy and I had not gone with them. It was far longer than they anticipated and quite difficult. Once they arrived in the town, we headed straight for a shop selling “helado”, ice cream, and sat out on the sidewalk and heard G and K’s account of their descent.

    A little history about the town: In the middle of the 15th century, Emperor Pachacutec conquered the region, in the Sacred Valley of south Peru, set on the Urubamba River amid snow-capped mountains. He destroyed the existing town and settled there to found Ollantaytambo and incorporate it into the Inca Empire. Pachacutec ordered the construction of the main buildings of the current archaeological site of Ollantaytambo to be his royal estate. These structures were used as astronomic observatories, agricultural, urban and administrative purposes. Major sites within the complex include the huge Sun Temple and the Princess Baths fountain. The fortress was the site of the greatest Inca victory over the Spanish during the wars of conquest. The Manco Inca fled here in 1537 with a contingent of troops after the disastrous loss at Sacsayhuaman and routed the Spanish forces led by Pizarro. The victory was short-lived and Pizzaro regrouped and took over the fortress.

    The village's old town is an Inca-era grid of a walled city block each with one entrance leading to an interior courtyard surrounded by a collection of houses and adobe buildings. A central square and cobblestoned street finish off the very quaint and pleasant town. The village stands very much like it did 500 years ago. Most of the walls are still intact due to the clever building knowledge of the Incas.

    We all wandered around the town, bought some cheese and bread for our hors d’oeuvres, then went separate ways each exploring on our own. Gary bought a hat during his explorations that Don really liked so Don and I headed back up one of the steep side streets, found and bought a hat, much like Gary's. We enjoyed sitting in the town square watching the children playing and the Peruvians going about their daily business as well as the street vendors selling their souvenirs. Our driver arrived to pick us up around 4:00pm and drove us back to our house Casa Killanau. We sat out on the patio and enjoyed a lovely time outdoors, planning what we would do the next day. Our chef and his assistant arrived to create a feast for us of trout and many vegetables including a delicious squash soup, with enough leftovers to have another meal later. We played cards and headed to bed for another well-earned sleep.    Read more

  • Don and Lee McLoughlinDon and Lee McLoughlinSouth America Part 2
    Gary thought we should do this.
    Waiting for Gary and Karina at a very hot market.In search of Helado (ice cream).Success!Adorable children playing on the sidewalk.Special delivery to market.

    Ollantaytambo, Peru

    November 14, 2019 in Peru ⋅ ☁️ 9 °C

    Today we planned a trip to another Inca archeological site, Ollantaytambo. Our driver who spoke no English picked us up in the morning and headed to the site. Along the way we spotted some structures high up on a cliff. The unique “hanging” hotel, which is made up of four transparent pods suspended by cables, 400 metres above the ground. You can only get there after you climb 400 meters up the rock face or hike a challenging trail featuring a zip-line network. Check out Skylodge Adventure Suites Peru. Our driver stopped and we got out to take a closer look. It sure is not for anyone who does not like hikes.

    While we were parked a little girl came along and showed us some woven bracelets, of course I had to buy some.
    We arrived at the Ollantaytambo site and while we were checking in several guides came to offer their services. We declined as we were prepared to do this on our own. Mike did not want to climb, and Don wasn’t sure he wanted to go very far up either. Gary and Karina were keen to go so they started, and Judy and I said we would just go a little way at our own speed. As it turned out Judy and I made it to the top and said that was it for us. We took our time coming back down as the steps were very steep and nothing to hang on to. Gary and Karena continued on across the top and came down further over and met us at the site base. We wandered around the market and bought a few Peruvian woven placemats and table runner. Lee enjoyed bartering and the rest left me to get the price I wanted. From there the four of us took a taxi back down to the town and enjoyed browsing the large market there. Gary and Karina decided to walk back down to the town and really had an adventure but said that they were glad that Judy and I had not gone with them. It was far longer than they anticipated and quite difficult. Once they arrived in the town, we headed straight for a shop selling “helado”, ice cream, and sat out on the sidewalk and heard G and K’s account of their descent.

    A little history about the town: In the middle of the 15th century, Emperor Pachacutec conquered the region, in the Sacred Valley of south Peru, set on the Urubamba River amid snow-capped mountains. He destroyed the existing town and settled there to found Ollantaytambo and incorporate it into the Inca Empire. Pachacutec ordered the construction of the main buildings of the current archaeological site of Ollantaytambo to be his royal estate. These structures were used as astronomic observatories, agricultural, urban and administrative purposes. Major sites within the complex include the huge Sun Temple and the Princess Baths fountain. The fortress was the site of the greatest Inca victory over the Spanish during the wars of conquest. The Manco Inca fled here in 1537 with a contingent of troops after the disastrous loss at Sacsayhuaman and routed the Spanish forces led by Pizarro. The victory was short-lived and Pizzaro regrouped and took over the fortress.

    The village's old town is an Inca-era grid of a walled city block each with one entrance leading to an interior courtyard surrounded by a collection of houses and adobe buildings. A central square and cobblestoned street finish off the very quaint and pleasant town. The village stands very much like it did 500 years later. Most of the walls still intact due to the clever building of them by the Incas.

    We all wandered around the town bought some cheese and bread for our hors d’oeuvres, then went separate ways each exploring on our own. Gary bought a hat, on his exploring that Don really liked so Don and I headed back up one of the steep side streets and Don also bought a hat. We enjoyed sitting in the town square watching the children playing and the Peruvians going about their daily business as well as the street vendors selling their souvenirs. Our driver arrived to pick us up around 4:00 and drove us back to our house, Casa Killanau. We sat out on the patio and enjoyed a lovely time outdoors, planning what we would do the next day. Our chef and his assistant arrived to create a feast for us of trout and many vegetables including a delicious squash soup, with enough leftovers to have another meal later. We played cards and headed to bed for another well-earned sleep.    Read more

  • 2025© FindPenguins
  • Home
  • About us
  • Group Tracking
  • Press
  • Terms
  • Privacy Policy & Cookies
  • Help Center
  • Legal notice