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Going north

May - August 2016
A 79-day adventure by Merry & Merry Read more
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  • Going north
    12
    Day 46

    Day 23: eternal ice and 20m visibility

    June 29, 2016 in Norway ⋅ 🌬 8 °C

    Today I crossed Norway's highest glacier and second highest mountain peak at 2465m. I had heard the view from up there is amazing, but I actually cannot attest to it...

    When I left for the ascent in the morning, the forecast was fine and the weather looked ok with some clouds on the very top. My friends the reindeer accompanied me once more, see picture 1 on the snow :)
    But the higher I got, the thicker the clouds formed, allowing for no more than 20 meters visibility for some of it. It was easy to lose the trail markings, so I had to use map, compass and gps to find my way. I walked through fog, light snow and eventually a minor snow storm, but thanks to the right equipment did not get cold. The secret: layers! The base layer is a thin longsleeve that dries quickly, then the isolation layer (eg fleece, which I skipped because it would have been too warm), then isolation and windstopper (I have a light weight down jacket) and then a wind and rain resistant layer to keep the warmth in and the cold and at out (=rain jacket).

    The hike was pretty exhausting, almost 9 hours in total, mostly scrabbling over rocks and very steep throughout. I'm camping close to a mountain inn, so I got to take a hot shower and sit in the warm by the fire for a bit!! I don't doubt I'll sleep like a rock tonight :)    Read more

  • Going north
    1
    Day 47

    Day 24: amazing glacier adventure

    June 30, 2016 in Norway ⋅ 🌬 5 °C

    Aaaaaaah such a cool day! My plan was to climb the summit of Norway's highest mountain, but the weather looked really bad. Lots of rain (=snow on top), wind and no view from up there. Luckily I bumped into my friends Paula and Ryan from Toronto at breakfast, whom I had met 3 days ago, and together, we signed up for a glacier tour with a guide instead.

    We hiked to the glacier Svellnosbrean, about 2.5 hours away. Then we put on clamp-on spikes, harnesses and roped up in case someone falls into a glacier cleft or sinks into the snow (which can sometimes just sit like a thin bridge over a deep crevice). The clamp-ons are amazing and let you walk up very steep ice! It got pretty cold up on the ice in the rain and wind, but was worth every second! So cool to see it all up close and quite the adventure as well. Not recommended if you're afraid of heights ;)

    We got back around 3pm and after warming up inside, I took off for another 2 hours of hiking, taking advantage of a few hours of sunshine in the late afternoon. Just before the rain came back, I pitched my tent in a wide valley right by a little stream with small waterfalls, the perfect source of fresh water to cook my dinner now.    Read more

  • Going north
    1
    Day 48

    Day 25: water under my feet all day :)

    July 1, 2016 in Norway ⋅ ☀️ 7 °C

    I made some good distance towards Fannaråk glacier today, where I plan to arrive tomorrow. The hike was quite scenic, from one valley to the next over higher and snow-covered grounds. The view was dominated by a rocky cone-shaped mountain and several lakes on the way.

    About a third of my hike was across snow today, which was quite enjoyable. Since it melts from below and the water sinks down towards the ground, the upper layers of the snow are dry, and good to walk on. Except close to large rocks, where you easily sink in a few inches. The other third of the hike I was crossing streams of melting water, rivers or muddy puddles of rain. I stopped counting at about 40 river / creek crossings, jumping from one rock to another (e.g. picture 2). It was very fun and thankfully my backpack is fairly light as my food is running low. Leaves only a third on "solid ground" :)

    After two days of snow, ice, rain and wind in I'm not really feeling on top of my game today. Sleeping early to get some rest and hopefully get rid of my runny nose. Bonne nuit!

    PS: picture 5 is another "search the reindeer" photo ;-)    Read more

  • Going north
    41
    Day 49

    Day 26: back into the clouds

    July 2, 2016 in Norway ⋅ ☀️ 2 °C

    I'm back at over 2000 meters altitude. yes, that means I'm back in the snow also ;-) I had a bit of a deja vu, when after a lovely few hours through the green valley full of creeks and waterfalls, I found myself going very steep up the mountains, mostly on snow, into the clouds, with no visibility. But there was no wind and I was quite comfortable. I made it to Fannaråk hut around 3pm, and by 5 it cleared up and I got to see the amazing view of pictures 4-6.

    This hut (3 small buildings) is quite unique for unlike most other huts, it's on top of the mountain right by a large glacier and there is no way up here but by a 5 to 6 hour hike. So once a year, a helicopter delivers all the supplies for the season and the people who work here stay a few weeks at a time. It's also less luxurious than most huts, without showers or electricity. But all I need is an oven to warm up and dry my socks!! One might say that one visitor's simple living is another hiker's luxury ;-)    Read more

  • Going north
    3
    Day 50

    Day 27: deep snow to roaring waterfalls

    July 3, 2016 in Norway ⋅ ⛅ 10 °C

    After a good breakfast, I left to hike down the 1300 meters I had climbed yesterday. In mostly sunshine, I made my way down the serpentine trail, across the snow fields (now covered with inches of fresh powder) and towards the valley I had camped at on day 25. Once there, I headed towards Vetti Gard, my destination for the day.

    On the way, I briefly stopped in a lovely cabin to eat my packed lunch (picture 2). It was such a nice place, I almost considered staying ;) But I had a few more hours of trail to hit...

    It was a long ways to Vetti Gard though with a long-stretched assent and then a steep descent into a narrow valley, and the weather kept changing from hot and sunny to dark clouds and rain. At one point, I just threw my pack on the moss and didn't want to walk another step (picture 4 ;) ). But just 1.5 hours later, I had made it and seen the impressive Vettifossen waterfall on the way. I'm camping surrounded by high cliffs and waterfalls coming down, singing me a steady roaring lullaby in the background. It's very scenic and I'm glad I made it all the way. Tomorrow is rest day at Årdalsfjorden, my legs and knees will thank me!    Read more

  • Going north
    Day 51

    Day 28: rest (for the legs) day

    July 4, 2016 in Norway ⋅ ☀️ 13 °C

    I spent yet another day in awe of amazing Norway and most of all amazing Norwegians.
    It was supposed to be my rest day, so no hiking, except the 75 minutes to the bus stop in the morning. Here are some of the acts of kindness I experienced: got a ride from a local not just to the bus stop but to my destination to pick up my next resupply at the post office, a local got me a hotel room where he knows the owner with 8am check-in and a prompt free breakfast upon arrival, got a ride from the post office to the hotel which was in another town.

    I'm in Ardalstangen, at a small part of Sognefjord, with beautiful views and a supermarket that had fresh strawberries and vanilla ice cream waiting just for me ;-)

    In the afternoon, I took a beautiful 3 hour kayak tour with Torunn (picture 3). I know it's not exactly resting, but after all my legs needed the rest, not my arms, right!? It was an amazing time on the water, so good that even though the water is only 7°C, I swam the last 100 meters back (in a drysuit).

    Lesson of the day: life is beautiful.    Read more

  • Going north
    12
    Day 52

    Day 29: from sea level back to 1300m :)

    July 5, 2016 in Norway ⋅ ⛅ 7 °C

    Today I made my way from Ardalstangen to Gudvangen across the Sognefjord with 2 ferries and a little bit of hitch hiking. The 3 hour ferry ride was absolutely beautiful and lead through UNESCO world heritage for its narrow fjord with steep cliffs on both sides.

    After a giant hot dog and a chocolate croissant at a small supermarket, I found myself back on the trails, happy to be moving again, and surrounded by nothing but trees, mountains and here and there a sheep, surprised about my unannounced visit :)

    It was so nice and warm all day, I was looking forward to get to three little lakes up in the mountains to set up camp at the shore and jump in to cool off. How could I forget I'm in Norway and at the end of June a 1300m high lake is still covered in ice floating around!? So no ice swimming for me today ;) But I got to cool a beer I carried up here in the ice and am enjoying it right now in the late sunshine    Read more

  • Going north
    1
    Day 53

    Day 30: the good, the bad, the muddy

    July 6, 2016 in Norway ⋅ ☀️ 5 °C

    All in all, the day was a bit rough. I was getting tired fast, as the trail went from snow to swamps to mossy grounds, which means you sink in a bit on each step and eating up kilometers becomes an exhausting exercise. But I enjoyed being outside and getting a new view around each corner

    The highlight was a long downhill stretch on snow that I got to shoe-ski down, really fun! Back on the trail, still steep and wet from the snowmelt, unfortunately and unintentionally, I also got to mud-slide a few feet down the trail. Yes, on my bottom, not the shoes... ;-)

    Feeling dirty and wet, I decided to hike an extra hour to the next cabin to clean and dry up. By now it was raining. I got there around 8pm, only to find it closed for renovations. So I hiked to the next river and flat meadow 15 minutes up the mountain and there finally got to clean up and change into clean, dry clothes. Thank God for a hot dinner and a warm, dry sleeping bag!    Read more

  • Going north
    Day 54

    Day 31: shorts and tshirt day

    July 7, 2016 in Norway ⋅ ☀️ 7 °C

    How happy I was to wake up to sunshine, which lastet till around 5pm! It was beautifully warm, no snow on the way and I was able to wash and dry some clothes, take a bath in a river, and enjoy the bright day.

    There was a beautiful mountain hotel (on the ridge in picture 4) on the way, where I got a smoked salmon and scrambled eggs lunch and two complimentary pieces of pie because the hostess decided I must need the energy after walking for so many days ;-)

    I also bought half a pound of fresh locally made Brunost, Norwegian goat cheese, or in my family known as caramel cheese (a lifelong addiction of mine). It's much to carry, but worth every gram, haha. Luckily, Merten and Elena are joining me in a few days to help finish it!    Read more

  • Going north
    3
    Day 55

    Day 32: hiking for beginners

    July 8, 2016 in Norway ⋅ ☀️ 8 °C

    It was so warm and comfortable at night, I slept extra long and didn't start hiking until 9:30. I had no rush, because the 27km would be fairly quick. My hike lead me along a bike pass all day, so there was no challenging uphill climb, no steep descents and no navigation necessary. I saw about 30 bikers, making their way towards Flåm, looks like a beautiful ride!

    It was sunny all day again, but the absolute highlight was the tiny post office (also the train station) at Finse (a "town" of 5 huts), where I got to pick up my next and last resupply package. It's feels just like Christmas, a large box full of food, my favorite snacks, a few necessaries and licorice :)

    I'm staying at a hiker's cabin (picture 6), as I'm not allowed to camp on this side of the lake. But I'm not complaining, it means shower and drying room so i can wash some clothes. Maybe tomorrow I'll camp over there as I wait for my brother and close friend to join me here on Sunday.    Read more

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