• Misadventures Of Wanda
Jan. – März 2025

Ghost and the Gnu

This is our journey across South Africa from north to south completely on our own. What could go wrong?? Weiterlesen
  • Beginn der Reise
    22. Januar 2025

    Gatwick

    22. Januar in England ⋅ ☁️ 5 °C

    We left home at 1pm and took the 3.5hr trip down to Gatwick airport in the gloomy and misty British weather trying to avoid the Morons that can’t drive on the way. After a couple of near misses including an HGV that thought it was a good idea to pull straight across the front of us we finally made it to our park and ride car park at 4pm.
    Once we checked the car in it was a 25 minute drive by bus to the departures at the south terminal where we had to queue for 45 minutes to check our luggage in. This is the most luggage we have ever brought on a trip. Both our cases were full to there weight of 23kgs each and we hardly had any clothes.
    What we did have was a double gas stove, a single gas stove, an omnia oven, a heavy duty tyre repair kit, 2 boxes of car fuses and electrical testing equipment, 600 tea bags, a small jar of coffee, sugar and hot chocolate, and various tools to help in an emergency. This was not going to be an ordinary trip.
    After making it through security with no problems and then hanging around the departures lounge we boarded our flight on Norse airways at 7:30pm and took off at 8:30pm.
    Destination Cape Town.






    Weiterlesen

  • Cape Town

    23. Januar in Südafrika ⋅ ☁️ 23 °C

    Cape Town
    We landed in Cape Town airport at 9:40am after a gruelling 11.5 hr flight. We both felt like we had been run over by the time we got off the plane and if we survive this trip without getting one of the many coughs that were knocking about on board it would be a miracle.
    Our driver Sasha met us at the airport with one of those name boards you always see people holding when you get to the arrivals section, and it was a 25 minute drive to our hotel the stay easy and we arrived at 11:30am too early to check in.
    We managed to find somewhere in the hotel to leave our bags and then we went for a walk to the shopping mall which is about 100 meters away from the hotel and situated on the Canal Walk of Cape Town. The canal walk is a beautiful paved area running approximately 5kms either side of the river and it has a park a huge shopping mall of over 400 shops and a massive food court. It really resembles the Disney boardwalk in Florida and we were blown away by it’s beauty..
    Our first stop in the mall was the biltong store where we brought 400 grams of honey glazed biltong and now we knew we had arrived in South Africa. Our next stop was breakfast in wimpy which is another South African staple. Then we took a slow walk back to the hotel and checked in at 1pm.
    Our room was cosy, with a double bed, tv, and tea making facilities and the first thing I did was clean my teeth and have a shower. Then we both took an afternoon nap.
    At 3pm we decided to go for a walk and walked the entire canal walk looking at all the sculptures and then we walked 2 stories of the entire mall which worked out about 5 miles in total. Then we walked back to the hotel and chilled out for the rest of the evening.
    Weiterlesen

  • Cape town - Joburg - Pretoria

    24. Januar in Südafrika ⋅ ☀️ 29 °C

    Cape Town - Joburg- Pretoria
    We were up at 6am this morning and we had our bags packed again after opening one of the cases yesterday and we were shrink wrapping it closed by 6:30am.
    We headed downstairs for our complementary breakfast and it was an amazing spread of anything you could ever want for a breakfast including fried food, scrambled eggs or fruit and yogurt.
    We settled for fresh fruit and yogurt and 2 cups of coffee before heading back up to our room to retrieve our bags and meet our taxi at 7:30am. We had the same driver as yesterday and he delivered us back to Cape Town airport for 8am.
    This flight was internal to Johannesburg and we were flying with lift airlines and it took us just 5 minutes to check our bags in and then another 10 minutes to get through security. We now had plenty of time to spare as were flying until 10am so we went to wimpy and had a chai tea and a mega wimpy coffee.
    At 9:30am we boarded our little flight and it took off on time and at 11:40am we arrived in OR Tambo Johannesburg airport and we were relived once we had collected our bags as now all of the camping stuff we had worried about getting here was in place.
    We headed for level 2 having booked an Uber to take us to our final destination of the day and a lovely guy called Tebobo picked us up and drove us the 1 hour to the Bushman’s Rock Country Lodge just outside of Pretoria.
    Weiterlesen

  • The Bushmans Rock

    24. Januar in Südafrika ⋅ ⛅ 32 °C

    We arrived at the Bushman’s Rock just after 1pm and to our delight we had, had a room upgrade for free. It is a beautiful hotel with lovely air conditioned rooms and our room has bi-folding doors that open up onto the pool. All of the rooms have fridges and kettles inside and there is a restaurant on site that does award winning Eisbein.
    Straight away I went for a swim. The temperature is already 32°c and it was nice to cool off. Then we took a walk up the road to the local shop to get some cold water and milk to make teas and coffees later.
    Once we were back at the lodge we both had a lay down for half an hour as we didn’t get any sleep last night as the air con didn’t work and then at 5pm we headed over to the restaurant for dinner where I was expecting the best Eisbein ever and was thoroughly disappointed when my meat turned up uncured and tasteless. I even left some of it.
    Ellie had better luck though, with here deep fried chicken schnitzel and there was so much she had to ask for a box to bring it back to the room. With the meal and a soft drink for Ellie and 3 beers for me it came to £20 which was a bargain even though I hadn’t liked mine.
    At 6:30pm we headed back to our room where we watched a couple of hours of Netflix before crashing out totally exhausted. Tomorrow will be the biggest day of our trip. Our vehicle should arrive and if it doesn’t we’ll know we’ve been conned out of a lot of money and 6 months of planning has gone out of the window not to mention the money. If it does this will be the trip of a lifetime and we’ll be South African car and caravan owners and we’ll be set for years. This whole trip depends on tomorrow.
    Weiterlesen

  • Ghost & The Gnu

    25. Januar in Südafrika ⋅ ☀️ 28 °C

    Ghost & The Gnu
    We didn’t get much sleep last night. I think we were excited, but apprehensive and nervous all at the same time, had we just lost a small fortune.
    At 8am we we got a message from Johan saying he was on schedule and he would be with us at 9am and low and behold, at 9am Johan and his wife turned up with our Ford Ranger and Echo Chobe 4x4 safari trailer. We hadn’t been conned, Johan and his wife actually existed and our truck and trailer were in near new condition and we were so, so grateful.
    After sitting down and having a coffee with Johan and his wife he gave us the paperwork and showed us around the car and then the trailer. Once the handover was complete Johan and his wife left and Ellie and I suddenly felt very nervous. Now we were on our own with a truck and caravan and we have to do everything we have planned.
    Once our nerves had settled we headed out in Ghost our truck, leaving the Gnu back at the hotel and our first stop was the Chinese shop to get as much cheap stuff as we could and this included some extra cooking utensils, cleaning products and spare tools.
    From the Chinese shop we headed to the outdoor warehouse and got camping chairs, a table and some ammo boxes for food storage. Then it was next door to the bedding shop to get pillows and a duvet and then we went to a little cafe on the retail park to get some cold drinks and roosterkoaks, these are basically a grilled Braai roll with fillings.
    After lunch we headed back to the hotel and then we practised putting the trailer up and setting the bed up in the 35°c heat which was roasting.
    Our room now looked like a camping bomb had hit it and gradually we started putting the stuff into the trailer and car until the room looked livable again. Then I jumped in the pool to cool off and had a beer whilst Ellie filmed around the trailer.
    Time had really got the best of us today and before we knew it, it was 6pm and we packed the trailer down making a note of a few things we have to get tomorrow and then we made a salad for dinner. It had been a very draining, nervous but exciting day.
    Weiterlesen

  • Camp 1 - Marloth Park

    26. Januar in Südafrika ⋅ ☀️ 28 °C

    Camp 1 Marloth Park
    I had, had a pretty good nights sleep last night thanks to some sleeping tablets but unfortunately Ellie hadn’t but we got up at 8am and started loading the car.
    I reversed onto the trailer and we hooked up with no problems and just after 9am we left the Bushman’s Rock Country Hotel and our first stop was the hardware store for some gas line and hose clips and some spray oil. Then it was back to the Chinese shop for some ratchet straps and bungees and then it was back to the outdoor warehouse for a few bits we forgot yesterday.
    That took us to 10:35sm and then we left Pretoria for the 4.5 hour trip of 260 miles to head to Marloth Park.
    Being a Sunday the roads were pretty quiet and once we left the Pretoria ring road which is a free for all motorway, we got onto the N4 and it was quieter and duelled most of the way. And it was a straight run. Ghost drove beautifully and pulled the Gnu like it wasn’t there.
    We stopped about 1/3 of the way in at the services called Alko which has an adjoining wildlife park with rhino, ostrich, impala, zebra and s few other animals. It was packed with people but there was loads of parking and a security guard stood watch over our car while we went in for a nature break and something to eat.
    Back on the road we had another 150 miles ahead of us and it was plain sailing right up until the last 30 miles where it turns into single lane carriageway and there’s loads of coal trucks.
    We finally got to Marloth Park campsite at 3:30pm and it felt like we were back home. We know this place intimately now and love it. We levelled the trailer off and within 30 minutes we had the majority of the trailer ready. It’s hard to know how long it really took because we had to move all of our clothes into it and set the awning up which didn’t take long but it was a new process.
    By 5:30pm we were sitting down on our new chairs, drinking beer and watching zebras and waterbok go down to the river to drink and listening to the hippos chuckling in the Kruger national park opposite. We had impala behind us and lots of warthog with there babies mooching around. It was great. We really felt like we had made a dream come true.
    After dinner of Braai rolls we just sat and watched the sun set, it was amazing.
    Weiterlesen

  • A Trip to Neilspruit

    27. Januar in Südafrika ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

    I didn’t have much sleep last night. I had a sore throat, I forgot to put my earplugs in and we left the windows open on the tent so when the sun came up at 5am we were blinded but I was already awake from the dawn chorus. So at 6am I was up and sitting on the chairs looking over the Kruger.
    Our plan for today was to head to Neilspruit for the stuff we were missing. We also needed to swap our duvet out for a much lighter one. So at 9am we left our camp site but our first stop was the gas shop in Marloth park to get a bottle of gas. Here we brought a 3kg bottle and they filled it while we waited, then we headed the 60 miles into Neilspruit. We had been there before to visit the outdoor warehouse and the camping stores but our first stop was a little retail park with a few clothes shops that seemed very, very black so we did 1 circuit and then left and headed straight for the outdoor warehouse. This area isn’t predominantly white but you can tell by the cars in the car park that it’s far more respectable.
    Once we had parked we visited the outdoor warehouse, for some magnets to hang stuff, the it was to the sportsman’s warehouse to get me some trainer socks, then we popped into a hardware store to get a spirit level and some Allen keys to rehang the door on the trailer and make sure we’re level when we park. After that we popped into the spar for 2 more days of food shopping and then it was back home.
    All in all it was a 120 mile trip but we think we have got everything to continue our adventure and when we got home it was 3pm. The day had run away from us again.
    When we had unpacked everything we popped over to the swimming pool to cool off in the 33°c heat. When we swimming there was a cloudburst and everyone else got out, which was weird as they were already wet. Ellie and I just stayed in the pool until it stopped raining.
    We got back to camp at 5pm and Ellie made a salad whilst the warthogs came and laid around our pitch and under the car. There were 2 mums and 8 babies and once the babies had eaten there fill they just laid on there side and passed out. Then they would wake up and jump up and start eating again.
    Once dinner was done we watched the sunset over the Kruger and when it got dark we could hear the lions chuffing. It was super cool.
    Weiterlesen

  • Our first game drive - Lionspruit

    28. Januar in Südafrika ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    I’d hardly slept atall, I had a sore throat and a banging headache that made me feel sick most of the night. So much so that I got up at 4am and took some ibuprofen. That did help but no sooner had I fallen asleep then it was time to wake up.
    I sat in the chair at 6:30am surrounded by warthogs. I did feel like death warmed up but it was still cool.
    By 7:30am we were dressed and after a cold shower I did feel much better, Ellie had a quick breakfast and by 8:30am we were in the car. Today was going to be our first game drive in ghost, and we were going to lionspruit wildlife refuge in Marloth Park.
    It was only a mile away from where camp was and we paid our £6 entry fee for the both of us and the lady opened the gate and we entered.
    Lionspruit isn’t a massive park, it probably only covers 15 square miles but it’s big enough to house 2 leopards, 1 male lion called Monty, 3 white rhino, buffalo, Wilderbeast, Warthog , zebra, giraffe, and thousands of impala.
    We decided to cover the park in a clockwise direction and went to Impala Dam first of all which was void of all wildlife. From there we drove to the gravel pit and found the zebra, on the way out of the gravel pit we encountered a rhino. He came straight out of the bushes and walked straight across the front of the car.
    As we continued we came across giraffe, warthog wallowing in a mud hole, more zebra and and rhino.
    Ghost handled the terrain beautifully and we even had to put it in 4 wheel drive twice to get through some boggy areas.
    We left Lionspruit at 11:30am and after a quick run to the shop we went back to camp for a salad lunch.
    At 1pm we decided to head to the swimming pool to cool down in the 34°c heat. It really was roasting today and it’s set to get hotter. After a 30 minute swim and having cooled down nicely as we were about to get out an old German guy entered the pool and Ellie greeted him. He said hello back and then proceeded to give us his 85 year life story from when he moved to South Africa at the age of 35.
    It was a nightmare. We finally left the pool at 5pm. Neither of us had ever looked so wrinkly and even though it was still 30°c we were now cold.
    We walked back to camp and once dressed I did a couple of my Spanish lessons then we had dinner.
    After that we fed the bushbucks and mongoose that had arrived at camp whilst we watched the sunset.
    Then when it was dark at 7:30pm we headed into the gnu to watch tv for a while before going to sleep. Tomorrow is moving day.
    Weiterlesen

  • Enter the Kruger

    29. Januar in Südafrika ⋅ 🌬 30 °C

    We were up at 6:30am and I made coffee whilst Ellie sorted the bedding out. By 7:30sm we were packing up and by 8:30am we were ready move, and as a first attempt at packing everything away we were pleased with an hour.
    We weren’t leaving yet as we had to get some shopping to do, some diesel to get and Ellie wanted to drive down the crocodile river road.
    Unfortunately Spar didn’t have any of the salad stuff we wanted and when we went to get the diesel the petrol tanker was there. Then we got stuck on a 4x4 road along the edge of the crocodile river but I managed to turn us around and get out of it, but that little escapade cost us nearly an hour. Luckily because it took so long the petrol tanker had gone on the way back and then we got diesel.
    We finally left Marloth Park at 10am and we entered The Kruger National Park at 10:45am. Now it was the long journey of 80 miles to reach Satara Rest Camp. That doesn’t sound far but with a top speed of 30mph that worked out at 3 hours.
    We treated the drive as game drive even though I was travelling faster than spotting speed and it was good to see different animals. Elephants, Buffalo, and Wilderbeast.
    We stopped half way at an outpost and got something to eat and drink before carrying on and once on the move we came across the biggest herd of buffalo we had ever seen. 2 of them were blocking the road and we had to wait 10 minutes for them to move.
    At 2:30pm we finally arrived at Satara and we were exhausted from the drive and the 34°c heat.
    We found a nice little spot with electric just a few meters away from the fence line and it took us 30 minutes to set up. Excluding the time it took me to hammer the pegs in because the ground was like concrete. And as soon as camp was ready we went swimming to cool off.
    Back at camp Ellie cooked dinner in the omnia oven on the gas stove and then as the sun set we went and sat by the fence line to watch for hyenas. We didn’t see any tonight but we did hear the lions roaring and we saw hundreds of fireflies which we had never seen here before.
    Weiterlesen

  • Our final game drive in the Kruger

    31. Januar in Südafrika ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    We were up at 4:45am and after a couple of coffees we left camp just after 5:30am.
    This morning was terrible for sightings and we got all the way to Orpen camp 45km away and hardly saw anything.
    Halfway through the return journey we came across a queue of cars and our initial thoughts were it’s either lion or wild dogs, but we were wrong, it was a leopard up a tree with a kill. Unfortunately it really was a long way away and there was a landrover and safari vehicle hogging the prime spot and they weren’t even taking pictures. The unwritten rule is take your pictures and have your viewing and move on. Not these guys, they were proper camped out and blocking the road and after 15 minutes of waiting we managed to jossle our way into a decent position. We got a couple of shots and moved on.
    By 9am the temperature was already in the 30’s and when we got back to camp at 10am for breakfast it was 34°c in the shade. After breakfast we didn’t really have anything to do so we dozed on our chairs and the sun got hotter and hotter.
    Over at the wash house I had a cold shower and found a brown armoured cricket which was a weird looking creature and then at 2pm I suggested we just go for a drive to have the air con on so that’s what we did and we managed to get through the hottest part of the day in the car. Today it got to 41°c in the shade which was just to hot, and it’s only going to drop to 28°c overnight.
    Back at camp we had dinner and we were joined by Martin the monitor again and some hornbills who decided to use the birdbath we had made.
    At 7:00pm we headed back over to the fence line to watch for hyenas and luckily one walked right by us just the other side of the fence and after 10 minutes he came back.
    We waited another 20 minutes and then decided to call it a night. We were in bed by 8pm.
    Weiterlesen

  • Our first game drive in the Kruger

    31. Januar in Südafrika ⋅ ☀️ 34 °C

    The gates to leave Satara opened at 4:30am but as the sun didn’t come up until 5:30am we decided it was pointless leaving before that, so we got up at 4:45am had a couple of coffees and left at 5:30am after the rush.
    We turned right out of the gate and then turned right again and headed down the Orpen to Satara road heading for Orpen rest camp 50km away.
    All was quite for the first 20km and we hardly saw anything. Just the odd lone animal, then as we crested a small hill we saw a pack of wild dogs running down the road towards us. Then out of the bush on our side jumped a baby impala followed by more wild dogs. They were on the hunt. The impala ran diagonally across the road right in front of and into the bush on the other side of the road and the wild dogs pursued.
    It all happed so fast we didn’t even get any pictures so I spun the car around and we followed there line of travel and a minute later we found the wild dogs down at the edge of the river.
    It looked like the baby impala had made it across the river and the wild dogs weren’t prepared to follow which was good from our point of view. We sat there watching the dogs and as we turned to leave they all came up from the bank and started walking down the road right in front of us. Then they all stopped right next to the car. They were so close we could have touched them.
    We moved on leaving the dogs to it and drove all the way to Orpen and on the way we saw 2 lots of Pygmy Mongoose which are really rare to see.
    Once we were at Orpen camp we turned the car around and started to head back and 20km into the return journey I spotted a lone lioness walking through the long grass towards the road. We quickly stopped and as the lioness got to the edge of the road she looked up and down it checking for any moving vehicles. She gave us the eye but we had stopped moving and as she walked across the road 5 cubs followed her. We couldn’t believe our luck. They could only have been 2 weeks old and they all followed in a line squeaking and meewing. It was a great sight and we felt very privaliged.
    We got back to camp at 10:30am and had breakfast and then went over to the reception area to use their wifi to book our next campsite on 2 days and our next excursion. Then we had ice creams as it was already 30°c and only just gone midday.
    Back at camp we decided we couldn’t have a rest in this heat so we went swimming for 90 minutes. The pool was like bath water and between 2pm and 5pm, the hottest part of the day here it was 36°. We are so fortunate to have the wrap around awning.
    As we were eating dinner at 6pm we were joined by a giant monitor lizard scratching around under the tree next to us for food.
    After dinner we even had to go and get some ice to put in the fridge because it couldn’t cope with the heat.
    Just after 7pm we headed over to the fence line and sat on the benches to wait for the hyena to come around. By 8:30pm when they hadn’t arrived we gave up waiting but all the time we were there we could hear a huge make lion roaring in the near distance.
    Weiterlesen

  • The Kruger to Jessica Hippo

    1. Februar in Südafrika ⋅ ⛅ 31 °C

    Even though we could have had a lie in we were up at 5:30am. I’ve had a cold for days now and now it’s in my chest. I had hardly slept since we got here and an overnight temperature of 30°c didn’t help.
    We had a 2.5 hr journey to our next location but we weren’t booked in until 1:45pm so we had hours to kill. At 7:30am we slowly started taking the tent down but by 8:30am we were ready to leave so we popped to the cattle barón take away and got a coffee each and drank it watching over the watering hole. Then we payed our last visit to the shop getting some more food supplies and water and I even managed to get some Vicks for my chest and some cough medicine. And we finally left at 10:30am.
    We were driving the Satara to Orpen road again and we just trundled along at 30kph in third gear the whole of the 48km treating it as a game drive. Obviously we got held up in an African roadblock. Of Wilderbeast with their babies on the way.
    Once we got to Orpen camp we followed the exit signs a road we had never taken before and a few hundred meters later we checked out of the Kruger.
    We got to our next destination with 45 minutes to kill and it was already 40°c outside and after waiting at the side of a dirt road some brits pulled up next to us and said they were here for the same thing to.
    Just before 1:45pm we crossed over a low lying bridge that had waterfalls all around it and then we pulled up to the gate just as it opened.
    We were here to see Jessica the Hippo. She is a real wild hippo who had been found washed up in the floods with her umbilical cord still attached in the garden of an ex game warden called Tony 25 years ago and she has been there ever since. He hasn’t trained her. She is free to come and go whenever she pleases and she even has access to his house. He bottle fed her from a baby and she has broken 5 beds but never harmed him or any guests. She is world famous because she can go but always chooses to come back, and last year she had a baby called Loki.
    After a brief chat and watching an old news story about Tony, his wife who has since passed away, and Jessica we were introduced to Jessica and Loki.
    The remarkable thing is that Jessica was nowhere to be seen when we arrived and Tony called her in Afrikaans and she chuckled back and came trundling down the river with Loki. Then we fed her sweet potatoes while rubbing her nose and then bottle fed her sweet tea.
    Hippos kill more people in Africa than any other animal so the relationship between Tony and Jessica is amazing and the fact she lets us anywhere near her baby is incredible.
    Weiterlesen

  • Graskop - Camp 3

    1. Februar in Südafrika ⋅ ☁️ 26 °C

    We left Jessica at 2:45pn and had a 2 hour journey to our next camp, which took us along South African panorama route. The scenery had now completely changed. We were into mountains and we climbed for a good 45 minutes with the Blyde River Canyon running along side us. The temperature finally started to drop and we could at last turn the air con off and open the windows. It was a vast contrast to what we had left.
    We arrived at the Panorama Chalet & Camp site at 4:45pm and this is our most expensive camp at £20 per night including electric. It is beautiful and we have a level, grassy, shaded pitch to camp on and the hotel has an infinity pool overlooking the graskop canyon and free WiFi all over. This was a stunning camp that we chose blindly and we are so glad to be out of the heat.
    By 5:15pm we had pitched everything and Ellie was cooking dinner and by 5:45pm we had a cup of tea and I was in the pool cooling down.
    At 7pm as it got dark we just chilled outside listening to the cicadas until we finally got bored and settled in to the tent at 8pm.
    Weiterlesen

  • Pilgrims Rest

    2. Februar in Südafrika ⋅ ☁️ 27 °C

    I had a pretty good nights sleep after going to bed at 7:30pm. I did have a coughing fit and got up for 10 minutes at 2am but apart from that I slept right through at 7am this morning.
    It rained overnight which brought the temperature down even more so sleeping was much easier but when we did get up at 7am it was really foggy out.
    By 9am the fog didn’t look like it was clearing so we decided to make a shopping list and head into Graskop town and get some food shopping. I also managed to pick up some crocs for messing about at camp for £2 and some sandals for wearing out for £2:50. We also managed to get some decent pots and pans for cooking and an electric kettle which will save our gas.
    Once we got back to camp we unloaded everything and then had a light lunch and while we were eating Ellie did a search for places to visit nearby because it was still foggy and she found a little town called Pilgrims Rest so at 1pm we headed for there.
    Pilgrims Rest was founded in 1873 when gold was found in the rivers nearby on the 23rd September. By the end of 1873 news had spread and there were some 1500 diggers forming mines but it was soon realised that the gold they were looking for was actually gold dust so sluces and sieves were put into the rivers to syphon the gold out. It was a slow process and the people that had moved to Pilgrims Rest to strike it big, didn’t unless they were part of a company.
    The town then played a major part in the Boer war housing Militia and then key figures fought in the first and Second World War on behalf of Britain from this town.
    We arrived around 1:30pm and paid £2 each to get into 5 museums showing how life was in the late 1800’s at the information center. Straight away the town has a funny vibe because although it is an old mining town and almost every building on the Main Street is an old shop. People do still live and work here. Even all of the old mining houses are lived in and the old hotel still functions as a hotel and bar.
    It was a fascinating place to look around, to look in the old garage and see a model T ford Pickup and to be able to walk around a house that is now a museum that has everything still in it, as it was when people were living there including family photos was incredible.
    Then we walked to the old church and cemetery and almost all of the graves were numbered and named on a big diagram nearby, and all of the people were buried with there heads facing east towards the rising sun unless you were a robber, then your grave was buried diagonally so you wouldn’t see the sun rise.
    We spent about an hour looking around and on the way home we drove around a spectacular mountain road. There was switchbacks galore and it was so scenic, we both said it looked like New Zealand. It certainly didn’t look like South Africa.
    We got back home about 3:30pm and then went swimming. The fog has finally cleared and we had an amazing view of graskop canyon from the infinity pool.
    Back at camp we were making dinner when we were joined by a German couple who wanted to look around our set up. They too had brought a vehicle but had gone down the root of the rooftop tent. After 20 minutes they left because our dinner was done and they wanted to go swimming. Where were all these friendly Germans when we were in Germany ??
    After dinner we just relaxed in camp until it got dark. It felt nice to have had a relaxing day.
    Weiterlesen

  • The Panorama Route & The Chubby Pig

    3. Februar in Südafrika ⋅ ☀️ 27 °C

    I was up at 5:30am witching a coughing fit thanks to my cold. It had rained heavily overnight and although it wasn’t raining now it was really misty.
    Ellie got up at 6:30 and after coffees we both headed over to the washrooms to get cleaned up. It was still very misty by 8:40am when we got back and I sat done a couple of very quick Spanish lessons and by 9am the mist had lifted and we were under burning sunshine. It really is the most bizarre weather here.
    Our plan today was to cover the whole of the Panorama route starting at the furthest point 40 miles away and working our way back, stopping at the chubby pig restaurant for lunch before finishing the route and coming back to camp.
    We left just after 9am and initially drove past the first scenic turnoffs for the pinnacle rock and gods window before seeing the sign for Lisbon falls and I decided we would do the scenic points going up incase the weather turned again, so our first stop of the day was Lisbon Falls. A beautiful double waterfall with a viewpoint but the viewpoint was quite overgrown and I couldn’t get great pictures.
    After Lisbon Falls we doubled back on ourselves going to Pinacle Rock which cost us £1:50 each to see a singular rock standing on it’s own and then we went to Gods Window which cost us £2:50 each to look down a view of the valley between 2 mountains and then climb 100 steps to visit what was called a rainforest and look at the same view from higher up.
    I was thoroughly disappointed with all of this, I hadn’t been that excited about coming here looking at the pictures online but it is a world famous route and Ellie wanted to do it.
    After Gods window we worked our way up to the next stop, Berlin Falls and had to pay another £2:50 each to view a singular waterfall running into a giant pool. Again we couldn’t get anywhere near it there was just 2 separate viewpoints and it was busy with tourists. Even Ellie was disappointed at the views but more disappointed that we had to pay at every single stop.
    We then took the decision to head to Bourkes Luck Potholes skipping all the other waterfalls en-route as this is something we both wanted to see. So we drove the 10 miles up the panorama route and this time paid £5 each to walk down what was called the lichen trail, which in reality was a rocky path to Bourkes Luck Potholes.
    The potholes are so named because they are part of a tightly formed canyon and as water has run through it has gauged out circular holes as it turned forming craters that collect the water. Pictures online make it seem that these “potholes” are everywhere but as we found out this is not the case.
    Everybody’s £5 entrance fee has gone into building 3 bridges spanning the width of the canyon and although it is a beautiful canyon and walk this is a well publicised place and as such it was heaving with people. Coach loads of people, and as we walked over the rocks and bridges we couldn’t see the potholes that we see online anywhere until we got to the last bridge. There they were, 200 feet below us and compared to pictures they were tiny. I was gutted.
    After the potholes we called it a day and decided not to get ripped off with crappy views anymore and as it was now 12:30pm we decided to head to the chubby pig for lunch.
    The chubby pig is a bizarre restaurant in a field next to a slow flowing river. We had only found it because they have holiday chalets here and we were booked to stay in for 2 nights last year but cancelled 2 days before because some ladies in the swimming pool told us that the panorama route was dangerous.
    We were greeted by a lovely girl who was also the manager and at the time we were the only ones here but it did get busier. She told us we could have a swim in the river if we wanted and although it looked inviting we didn’t have our swimming stuff so we just settled on eating.
    I chose a bacon and Brie burger with fries and onion rings and Ellie chose a chicken, peach, and pea Vestkoek which is a battered roll. Ellie’s looked bizarre and it was unbelievably heavy to eat. It was just so doughy but the Chicken, peach and peas with gravy and mayonnaise actually tasted pretty good. Who would have thought it?
    After the Chubby pig we headed back to camp, Ellie said she was really tired so we got in the tent at 2pm for a nana nap and I got back up at 2:30pm leaving Ellie asleep.
    By 2:50pm I was bored so went swimming on my own for 20 minutes to cool off and Ellie still wasn’t up when I got back.
    She finally got back at 4pm and then said she didn’t feel well. I thought I had given her my cold but around dinner time she started being sick and continued to be sick until 9pm. Then she just flaked out in the bed next to me.
    Weiterlesen

  • Graskop lift and Gorge Company

    4. Februar in Südafrika ⋅ ☀️ 28 °C

    We had both had a pretty bad nights sleep, with my coughing and Ellie being sick so when we got up to a thick mist at 6:30am we just decided to have a chill day and relax.
    Ellie didn’t want to be to far away from a bathroom as she still felt queesy but we did pop out to the local shops to stock up on our food supplies and we managed to get an in-line on/ off valve for the gas bottle.
    We got back home about 11am and then had a light lunch of Gnu toasties and then I fitted the in-line valve so I don’t have to keep getting under the trailer to turn the gas on and off.
    Around 1pm we thought we would brave going into the Graskop gorge next door to the campsite so we drove the 5 minutes to the car park and paid our £5 each to get in.
    It is actually called the Graskop gorge and lift company and to enter the gorge we had to descend 400ft to the base of the gorge below and here there is a real tropical rain forest. From the very top of the gorge a waterfall pours downs into a pool that runs off into little streams feeding the plants and trees.
    As we excited the lift we entered a boardwalk that runs a circular route around the base of the gorge running for about half a mile with information boards telling us about the plants, trees and animals that live in this very diverse rain forest.
    There is also a cliff walk that we were to scared to attempt and even a zip wire, also not our thing.
    We got back to camp around 3pm and there were new campers nearby and they were Scottish and asked to look around our setup. We were pleased that they were impressed and finally we no longer feel like the poor tourists. They stayed looking around for about an hour.
    After showing the neighbours around we spent the rest of the day chilling and just before bedtime we put the awning away so it wasn’t dripping with dew when we got up. We also realised the fridge had been freaking out when it was on the trailer battery because the trailer battery seems quite knackered.
    Weiterlesen

  • Swaziland Day One

    5. Februar in Südafrika ⋅ ☀️ 36 °C

    We got up at 6:20am and we’d had a good nights sleep. Our Scottish neighbours were already up having breakfast and another couple that were camping further away we’re just leaving for a day out. Everyone was keen this morning.
    We managed to pack everything away and get on the road for 8:30am. Our original plan for today was to head to sudwala caves but now we needed a new battery we were going to head back to Neilspruit.
    We reached the battery centre at Neilspruit at 10am. Unfortunately a 100ah batttery wouldn’t fit but we did manage to get a 90ah one. Luckily the guy in the shop fitted it for us and out here they even give you money back for trading in your old battery.
    Two doors down on the retail park was Sonpark Camping and Leisure, I suggested we just take a look in there. We are missing 2 poles for the awning, it doesn’t prevent us from putting it up but it just sags a little and the rain collects there.
    We entered the showroom and started looking around and they had loads of awning poles so we mentioned our dilemma and they guy in the shop unhooked our trailer spun it around and opened the awning and then went to get an older guy from out the back. The older guy came out with a tape measure and looked at the awning and said he didn’t have a pole to fit but he would make us one.
    Okay, how long is that going to take? Obviously we were expecting days.
    No, 30 minutes later the old guy came back and fitted it to the awning. It looks like a brand new awning, no sagging and it only cost us £60 and £25 of that was labour. South Africans just get stuff done.
    At 12pm we left Neilspruit and we could hardly believe our luck getting the pole for the awning. Our next stop was Swaziland and we had to do our first border crossing on our own. The lady at the South African exit was the bitch from hell and she stamped our passports and told us to just drive. But the people entering Eswatini were lovely and the guy at border control new of Norwich from the football.
    This was going to be our first off grid campsite and we arrived at Mbolozi Camp at 3pm. We were greeted by a lovely gentleman in reception and we paid for 2 nights and then he gave us a map and we drove to the camp.
    To say it is rustic is an understatement, the animals are wild, the grass is 4ft tall around camp, there is a wash house for washing up that has 2 toilets attached but the flies have moved in but there are other toilets and showers but they are open air. Luckily for us we’re the only ones here.
    We pitched up by 4pm and then decided to go for a walk. There’s no real predators here except crocodiles so the entire park is walkable and even rideable. Something I’ll be doing tomorrow.
    First we walked down to the river and waterfalls but after encountering hippo footprints we turned around and started walking back the way we had driven in. It felt weird walking along spotting Giraffe, Zebra and Impala.
    At 8pm we set the trap camera on a tree by camp and then went to bed, and that’s when all the fun started.
    Weiterlesen

  • Swaziland Day 2

    6. Februar in Swasiland ⋅ ☁️ 30 °C

    Just after midnight I woke up having a coughing fit I stayed up outside the trailer for 45 mins coughing and then Ellie came out saying she could hear the fridge beeping because of low power.
    We decided just to unplug it and when we got back in the trailer to go to bed I realised the power bank had run out and our fans had stopped working. I then spent 20 mins getting the right leads the right way around so we could run them from the USB on the trailer which was fine until 2:30am when the trailer started beeping telling us it was losing power.
    At 3am I just decided to switch the whole trailer off and we sweated in the 28°c night air until I gave up trying to get to sleep at 5am and just got up.
    I was annoyed the battery hadn’t lasted but the readout on the power panel does tell us that the fridge is pulling 2.5amps per hour. You can only use half of the ampage in a lead acid battery which is what we’ve got and as it’s a 90ah battery we only have 45ah to play with at best.
    At 8am we decided to plug the car back into the trailer and just let it run for an hour. The power panel has a built in DC to DC charger so I should be able to half full the battery in that amount of time.
    So I plugged the car into the trailer and where the panel normally says vehicle it didn’t. I flicked some switches and nothing. I turned the car off, unplugged it, plugged it back in, nothing. Then I checked the fuses. One under the bonnet, one on the power panel in the trailer, 2 around the battery and nothing.
    After 90 minutes I traced the wires from the car all the way back to the power panel, with my new Allen keys I removed the power panel and straight away I could see that the plug to the Dc to Dc charger had snapped off. It looked like whoever had originally put the wires in had forced the plug back into place and broken the 2 connecting pins and yesterday we went over umptine speed humps and then the gravel road to get here and they have shaken loose. Now we can’t charge the trailer whilst driving. This is a problem I don’t think I fix.
    Now we knew what the problem was we knew we had to move campsite to somewhere that had power so we had a shower and then drove the mile and a half back to reception where there was wifi and while Ellie searched for a new camp I hired a mountain bike for an hour and headed out.
    I left the reception at 11:30am, I was going to be an hour and they wouldn’t charge me for rental as they knew we were leaving early. I took a drink, wore a helmet and took off trying to get as much mileage under my belt in an hour.
    I passed Giraffe, followed a couple of warthog, rode past a huge heard of Impala, saw a hippo outside the bird watching area and stopped for a drink next to a huge Monitor lizard. 50 mins in I was just up the road from the reception and I decided to go home down the mountain bike trail. On the map it looked like one trail but as I got into it it split off into different trails that weren’t in the map. I realised later that these were probably wide game trails. As I went flying down a hill I had a pop and the front wheel started going down so I pulled the back brake but it was already to late. The front wheel went from under me and I face planted into the gravel.
    I was ok, I got back in the bike and carried on, I had 5 minutes to get back and I knew I wasn’t far away but when I came out of the trail onto the road there were no numbers on the trails. I turned right and rode very slowly now as the front tyre was almost completely flat and after 5 minutes I was back at the trailhead I had just just gone down. I was riding in circles.
    I turned around and decided to keep riding until u found a track number and I did. Track 13, it didn’t look anything like the map but I needed track 11 so I carried on for 20 minutes downhill and came to track 16. I was going the wrong way and now I was 20 minutes late, I’d run out of drink, my hands and arms were covered in blood and it was 35°c.
    I did think to myself is this really how I die? Lost in the bush in a mountain bike cooking myself to death?
    I turned around and even though it was uphill with a puncture I managed to get back to track 13, I checked the map again and thought I figured out the right way and with no sign of track 12 I finally stumbled on track 11 and the route to reception. I limped the bike back home and told them why I was late. Ellie was waiting she had already told them I’m never late there must be a problem and they were about to send out a search party. They didn’t seem to bothered about the puncture.
    Back at camp we started taking the trailer down. I had a quick semi-cold shower and at 2:30pm we left and drove 4 miles down the road to the Mlozi Nature Reserve. Once we had checked in we had a 2 mile drive through the bush to reach our campsite. We are the only ones in the whole park and even though we are 2 miles away from anywhere this camp has power.
    As we pulled in to the camping area we were greeted by warthog and then we pitched up. It took us 45 minutes including staking down the awning and putting the groundsheet down. We were impressed with ourselves.
    As soon as the tent was up I went for a cold shower but even though the boilers aren’t on the water is still boiling because of how hot it is, luckily when I came back from the shower there was a gentle breeze so u managed to air dry and cook down.
    We have a lovely shady spot that the pigs were enjoying until we got here and it’s very peaceful.
    There are lots of hikes and a cafe at the opposite entrance 5 miles away so we might drive up there tomorrow.
    By 5:30pm we had, had dinner and it was still 30°c outside but threatening rain. We so want it to rain to cool it down.
    Weiterlesen

  • Swaziland Day 3

    7. Februar in Swasiland ⋅ ⛅ 26 °C

    Finally last night we both slept the whole night through which was good because it rained heavens hard all night and after Ellie and I had been watching scary things in the kindle and then having sticks fall on the roof neither of us would have wanted to get up.
    We got up at 6:30am, had a shower and some rusks with our coffee and by 9am we were pretty much ready to roll. Today we were going to the other nature reserve entrance 8.5 miles away. There they had a cafe and WiFi and we were going to ask where the nearest supermarket was.
    We left just after 9:15am and it was dirt roads with some big rocks all the way. The last 2km were unbelievable. There was a sign saying steep hills and tight curves for 1.5km and it really was steep. I would say it was atleast a 30% gradient. I’ve never driven up anything like it and the switchbacks were proper 180° and so steep. At every corner I had to put it in first gear and we were in 4 wheel drive all the way up just to keep traction.
    Once at the top we were rewarded with magnificent views of the whole of Eswatini. Considering it is so flat it looked very hilly.
    We pulled up at the reception area of the second entrance and we greeted by a lovely young lady who told us the cafe was open, we could have whatever we wanted. It was mad. We are the only people in the whole park.
    We had a couple of cold drinks and found out where town was and if it was safe. The reception seemed a little taken back when we asked if it was safe. Swazi people are just generally carefree happy people, the crime rate is unbelievably low and the place is pretty unpopulated.
    We headed out the gates, turned right and then started our 17km journey to town and 5km before we got to town we came to a military checkpoint we had been warned about. We stopped and a very young girl in combat gear asked to search the car so I politely obliged and asked her what she was searching for but she didn’t understand me properly. Then in plain English she said “ can you give me a lift?”
    I thought I had mis heard
    “ you want a lift?” I asked
    “ yes”
    “ well I can give you a lift. We’re just popping to the supermarket to get some shopping but if your going that way I can take you”
    “ Lumbombo?” She asked
    “ I have no idea what the town is called, I’m just going to get some food” I replied
    “Good” she said and then pointed to another girl dressed in civvies sitting on a chair at the checkpoint and said this man will take you.
    This random girl then got in the back of the car without saying anything and the military girl said thank you and waved me in my way so I jumped back in started the car and Ellie was already pissing herself laughing. I turned around and said “ J hope your going where we’re going” to our new passenger and set off towards town.
    The girl in the back kept in saying thank you and obviously we said it’s fine, it’s no bother. And then Ellie “asked are you going to town?”
    “ no” she replied “ I’m going home”
    “ ok, is that near town?” Ellie asked again
    “ no, I live in the royal hilane residencies” she replied
    “ how far is that? “
    “ about 16 kilometres” she replied
    “ can we do that? “ Ellie asked me “ is that far?”
    “ That’s not far “ I answered “ we can take you “
    “ But I can’t pay you, I have no money” she said
    “ Don’t worry it’s fine”
    After a good 20 minutes of driving we had already done 20 miles and 25 km and we came to the airport and started picking up signs for the royal hilane residences. It turned out the girl we had in the back had just finished her shift at the checkpoint as she too was a soldier and she lived in the royal estate of the king. She was a lovely girl and gave us a proper tour if Swaziland for the 48 miles she was in our car and even showed us one of the kings palaces right next to where she lived. The funny thing is, she lived in a concrete shack with a tin roof surrounded by animals and her house overlooked a magnificent grand house with high walls and a fancy garden.
    We pulled up in the girls driveway an hour after we had picked her up. God knows how she would have got home if we hadn’t taken her. She was so grateful that she insisted on paying us even though we said we didn’t want anything and she ran into the house and first came back with a coconut. “ Please take this“ she said insistently and not wanting to offend we took the coconut, “ hang on, u have a present for you “ she said and ran back inside and then came back with a huge silk scarf and a giant wall calendar with a picture of the king and his 16 wives on, then she started looking around for a chicken. Have you seen whatever his name was she asked her neighbour and that’s where I stepped in and said I don’t want a chicken but I would like a photo for my diary and we had a hug and a photo and then we left.
    It took us an hour to get back to the town where we did our shopping and then we headed back to the nature reserve.
    Once again we stopped at the reception and cafe and this time we had lunch as it was now 2pm.
    We finally got back to camp at just before 4pm, we’d had a real random day.
    We spent the rest of the day back at camp exploring as it is massive and we found 2 tortoise and a bushbuck before settling in to the tent at 7:30.
    Weiterlesen

  • Swaziland Back to South Africa

    8. Februar in Südafrika ⋅ ☀️ 30 °C

    We were packed and ready to leave at 8:30am. There was a lady cleaning the bathrooms as we left and Ellie asked when would they next be busy?
    I’m sure it will be busy on Friday she said, but today was already Saturday.
    We drove our past the reception area and then hit tarmac again. We had a long drive ahead of us. It was 130 miles to our next destination of the Boabab Inn and we had to do a border crossing.
    After 3 hours of slow driving and 70 miles we came to the border. This was an easy crossing. The Eswatini’s thanked us for visiting and said goodbye and the South Africans welcomed us back.
    We had another 50 miles of driving to do before we reached our first stop of the day. The Boabab Inn and we were here because it en-route to Pete’s and they did a really good Eisbein. Unfortunately the place was still beautiful but under new management and Eisbein was off the menu. I was gutted, I had been looking forward to this since we left and it was the sole reason we were here.
    I settled for a steak which was good but Ellie’s chicken schnitzels weren’t fresh made like they used to be and she was disappointed.
    After the meal we left and had a decision to make. Do we drive through a private game reserve or around it? Looking at the sat nav it was 10 minutes quicker to drive around Phinda so that’s what we opted for but unbeknown to us this area was hit by 200mm yesterday. We started driving and 5 miles into the drive we left the tarmac and picked up a gravel road heading into Zulu country. Straight away I put it in 4 wheel drive as a precaution and every time the gravel road dropped in elevation it became boggy but ghost just lapped it up dragging the Gnu until we came to a raging river at the lowest point and the road the other side was gone. I had to turn around. The road was only just wide enough for 2 cars so I reversed over to one side and then attempted a 3 point turn. I knew I was going to have to Jackknife the trailer and I put it in such a tight twist I ended up putting the front of the trailer through the back lights of the car. I was very annoyed.
    We managed to turn the car around and it was 20 miles back to where we had come from. I thought we’d just go through Phinda game reserve but when we pulled up at the entrance the security guard told us we couldn’t get all the way through because of flooding.
    We told the guard where we were trying to get to and she gave us alternative directions which took us up to Empilozi and down route 22. 50 miles out of the way.
    This added an extra hour to our journey and now it would take 2.5 hours to get to Pete’s on top of the 3.5 hours we had already done. It was a nightmare. The car was and trailer were now caked in mud and I’d smashed a back light. I really felt done.
    Finally at 4:30pm we arrived at Pete’s and we were all so happy to see each other but to top it off Pete had a mega surprise for us. He had actually managed to restore his old backpackers to it’s former glory and it looked amazing. It had a roof, working kitchen, 2 bathrooms, a library, indoor and outdoor eating area and a huge camping area. We couldn’t believe it, on top of that he also has a partner called Cameron so we are so happy for them. Pete also had 3 other guests staying with him, Steve who is from Durban in South Africa, Marco a paying guest from Sweden and Ludvig, a volunteer from Germany. It turns out that since we were last here Pete and his Volunteers have discovered 2 new species of mushroom in the area and a new species of spider. He also still has Milly the cat and a new dog called come here. That is a true Pete name if ever there was one.
    At 8pm Pete cooked us all Wors on an open fire. His.cooking is still the best.
    Weiterlesen

  • Winterdodgers Day 1

    9. Februar in Südafrika ⋅ ☀️ 29 °C

    We woke up at 6am to an excruciatingly hot sun. Even Pete said it was angry so it must have been bad.
    By 7am we were all up wringing wet with sweat. The heat and humidity was almost unbearable and Pete suggested we had a beach day so at 8:30am we all piled in one of Pete’s many land rovers and we took the sandy 4x4 tracks to 9 mile beach. The road getting there was absolutely insane, with deep sand, boggy puddles and thick bush to push through. Pete is still the best driver I know.
    We spent 2 hours at 9 mile beach with myself and Pete bobbing up and down in the breakers, Ellie sat in a rock pool and Steve, Marco and Ludvig stayed at the clapped out landrover drinking beer before we decided to head back. The landrover we were in had only 2 seats. Pete was driving and Ellie was riding shotgun. It was a 1973 model, older than me and Pete but the kicker was it had a 1957 4.2litre Buick engine in. It sounded like a Spitfire and drove over everything nature could throw at it like a tractor.
    Back at Winterdodgers we had watermelon and pineapple for lunch followed by beer and we spent the rest of the day all together exchanging stories and drinking.
    At 5pm we decided to head out to Sodwana Bay and the get some food at the restaurant called the tree. Pete and I ordered the Eisbein and finally it was edible.
    By the time we got back home it was 8pm and everyone was ready for bed so we all went our seperste ways and as Ellie and I were about to get into the trailer, Come here came running by to say goodnight. He’s a funny thing.
    Weiterlesen

  • Winterdodgers Day 2

    10. Februar in Südafrika ⋅ ☁️ 28 °C

    Ellie and I were up at 6am and we went up to the new house and waited to be joined by everyone else.
    Pete and Cam were next bringing Millie and Come Here with them.
    Pete suggested we take a field walk with a guy Called Beatrice. A local medicine man and he would tell us all about the local plants and what they are used for. I did say I wasn’t bothered and we had to go to the shop and at 10am Ellie and I headed up to Mbozwana to refill the car and check on what food we might get to take with us when we leave.
    We got back at 12pm and we had decided to have a Power Nap when Pete came down and said Beatrice was here to take us in a walk. I was very annoyed but we put on our sensible walking shoes and headed off across the fields to look at plants. Beatrice had 2 very thick books with him about trees and plants and they were heavy as I found out when I was tasked with carrying them.
    We would stop every 5 minutes for Beatrice to tell us about a plant he had seen and what they would use it for. Then he would spend another 5 minutes at least trying to find that plant in one of the 2 books to show us what the fruit looks like.
    We were out for nearly 3 hours and I was bored rigid and I didn’t want to be walking in the fields because last time we did that we got fleas and ticks and Ellie got really ill. To top it off we obviously had to pay for the privilege and it cost us a whopping 300 rand. That’s £25. I was really annoyed but we had fed this guy for a couple of weeks. After the walk we took Hilape back home and she showed us her house. She was so pleased with the front door we had got her 2 years ago. It is fitted and now she even has 2 windows and even a TV. She was very pleased to show us.
    Back at camp we chilled for an hour before everyone headed out for a sunset drive and to steal some bricks from an old lodge that had been dismantled years ago. We took some beers and it was an amazing sunset.
    Back at camp we headed over to Pete’s original house for dinner and then we went back over to the new place for drinks. By 8pm everyone was heading to their beds and it was throwing it down with rain. I had to carry Ellie back to our camp because of the frogs.
    Weiterlesen

  • Winterdodgers Day 3

    11. Februar in Südafrika ⋅ ☁️ 26 °C

    We got up at 6am. It was raining but very warm which made it humid.
    Our plan for today was to go to Tembe Elephant park but it had rained hard all night and the swamp roads would be flooded so we decided the moment we got up that it would be a lazy day.
    When Pete came down at 7am with Come Here, he agreed the weather was to bad and suggested another walk with Beatrice but I would rather have stuck pins in my eyes and we made the excuse of having to go shopping because we were leaving tomorrow.
    After we’d showered and sorted ourselves out we headed up to Mobozwana to get some shopping for the next few days. The 8 miles of sandy tracks were unbelievably boggy and slippery and it was really slow going. We spent 2 hours in town before heading back and Pete asked if I’d had to put it in four wheel drive to get out but I hadn’t.
    For the rest of the day it was just me, Ellie, Pete and Cam and we just sat up at the new house drinking coffee and watching the rain. Some of it was very heavy and it was constant.
    At 4:30pm the beers came out and then Steve the Marlin Fisherman came up to give us more stories of the sea. It doesn’t matter what we were talking about he could always turn it back to sea fishing. Then he said he always knew what the weather would be like for the next 3 days and Jason asked if his bald head was a barometer.
    Pete and Cam cooked a great meal of Pork Chops and vegetables with Pap. Pete even cut the fat off and made crackling. Then we had carrot cake for dinner.
    Once dinner was done at 8pm Pete said he was going to bed and I said the same. I could not listen to another fishing story.


    Weiterlesen

  • Ballito

    12. Februar in Südafrika ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

    We got up at 6am. It had rained all night and the gnu had leaked because we were on the piss, we even had to sleep in the other bed. I made a coffee on the gas stove in the rain and then we went up to the house and Pete was already there and said “ you looked like you were really enjoying yourself making coffee in the rain, so I didn’t offer to make you one”
    Typical Pete.
    We had a couple of coffees and then I went down to undo all the electrics whilst it still rained and then when there was a break in the weather Ellie and I quickly packed up. By 9am we were ready.
    We headed back up to the house and had a coffee and then started our goodbyes, we gave Hilapè a hug and promised to see her next year, marco and Ludwig came up to say goodbye with Jason but we had to head down to the old house to say goodbye to captain Steve and find Millie the cat. Then it was a hug for Cam and Pete walked us out. This would be our last time of seeing Pete for atleast a year. We said we would look forward to seeing how it is next time we come gave him a hug and then we put the car in four wheel drive and left.
    The 8 miles of sandy lanes to get back to Mbozwana were unbelievable. The car did so well to pull us through mud, sand and puddles that came over the windscreen. It was a real driving test to get out.
    We stopped in town for some snacks and then we set the sat nav and left.
    It was 189 miles and 4 hours of driving and most of it was in the N2. We stopped 3/4 of the way in for a nature break and some milkshake’s at some services and then it was duel carriage way the last 70 miles and at 2:30pm we arrived at the Dolphin Resort in Ballito.
    We had been warned off of Ballito by the same number of people that had said go there, so we were slightly apprehensive but getting into the town was easy and our new campsite is beautiful. We were greeted by a lovely lady at reception who said we could walk around and find our pitch first. Once we had found our pitch we had 2 workers who wanted to help pitch our trailer but we said we were fine, and when we were pitching the trailer a lady came over with tea and scones for us.
    Once we were settled in we headed over to the tea terrace and Ellie caught up her social media and I went swimming. I think it was probably more of a decontamination after leaving Pete’s and the wetlands. Both our feet our black.
    At 5:30pm we had salad for dinner and then watched a guy a couple of camps over defend his territory from vervet monkeys. There is something insanely funny about watching a middle aged man fight monkeys.
    As the sun started to set at 7pm, it was still windy and much fresher here and as we settled into the trailer we were hoping for a good nights sleep.
    Weiterlesen

  • Ballito Day 2

    13. Februar in Südafrika ⋅ ☀️ 29 °C

    We were up at 6:30am with the sun and the birds. The windy conditions had dropped almost as soon as we had got in bed and the temperature rose to the mid 20’s overnight. I can’t remember the last time I slept under covers.
    I skipped breakfast because I had plans for a late lunch later but Ellie did have some and then we went for a walk around the site.
    We found a beautiful boardwalk and walked around that which only took around 20 minutes but we saw lots of birds and you wouldn’t have thought that we were in a small city.
    Back at Camp Ellie started looking on Facebook marketplace for a second hand solar panel for the Gnu but as I wasn’t sure when our next city would be I was more interested in finding a backlight for the car to replace the one I smashed jackknifing the trailer on the way to Pete’s.
    Around 10am we headed down to the beach. It was only 100 meters out of the front gate and we got our first real look at Ballito and it was beautiful. For a beach city it’s very up market. The hilly sections look like Beverly Hills with huge houses but overall it looks very much like the beach areas in San Francisco or California.
    We got to the beach and the wind was unbelievably strong. Whipping sideways across the sand. Huge rollers were breaking just off the shoreline and loads of body boarders were riding the waves. I went for a quick dip while Ellie held onto the stuff.
    Heading back to camp we headed into the chequers supermarket opposite and we were delighted to see it was like a more up market spar but the prices were the same so tomorrow will be a shopping day.
    After shopping I found a car spares place just down the road and we drove there and we couldn’t believe our luck when they had the exact light we needed in stock and it was only £50. The same light in England would cost £250. We paid for the light and then brought a small set of star shaped screwdrivers and within 10 minutes we had replaced the light and I felt much better.
    Once the light was done we headed back to camp, had a quick cup of tea and then headed 2 miles down the road to Salt Rock. I had found the Salt Rock Car Wash online and for £5 they would wash the car which was great because it got in a right state leaving Pete’s. They did a great job of washing and drying the car.
    Next door to the car wash was a restaurant. This is the sole reason we came to Ballito. Siggis German Resaurant and there famous Eisbein.
    We had seen this restaurant on a YouTube video from a guy we follow called “like a tourist” and the Eisbein looked amazing. We entered the restaurant. Got a table for 2 and I ordered the Eisbein with Sauerkraut and Wedges and Ellie ordered the Chicken Schnitzel
    When the Eisbein came out it totally filled the plate, it was massive. 1.1kg of rolled pork, cured, cooked then deep fried to produce the best crackling known to man. The Sauerkraut was also the best I had ever had. Ellie’s chicken schnitzel was also freshly made and the meal was amazing. Ellie also loved the mustard and asked if she could buy some and the guy came back with a huge jar but it did cost more than Ellie’s Meal.
    Leaving the restaurant it was now 3:30pm and we were stuffed. We got back to camp, headed over to the chequers supermarket to get some furniture polish and air freshener and then I cleaned the inside of the car. Once that was done we headed over to the tea area and FaceTimed Ben to check in and then it was back to camp where we just chilled out. We wouldn’t be needing dinner tonight.
    Considering we were so apprehensive about Ballito and had,had mix reviews we really like it. It’s felt very safe, the people are lovely and we would definitely come back.
    Weiterlesen