The last Kingdom Roadtrip

February - March 2023
This is our journey from Norfolk to Northumbria to visit Bamburgh Castle and hunt down the costumes and props from The Last Kingdom. Read more
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  • 4days
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  • 814miles
  • Day 1

    The Road to Bebbanburg

    February 28, 2023 in England ⋅ ☁️ 7 °C

    We left home at 12:30pm after a quick trip to Tesco to stock up on supplies. This was a very last minute trip, but with time on our hands and crap weather in Norfolk, we thought we may aswell have crap weather in Wanda.
    This journey will be about some real old fashioned English culture as we head north to Northumberland and Bamburgh Castle, home of Uhtred of Bebbanburgh from The Last Kingdom and to visit a display of costumes in the castle from the TV Series.
    So far we’ve had a good journey, with fairly quiet roads and very few hold ups. We set the cruise control at 60mph and pretty much cruised all the way.
    Our first day has brought us into Yorkshire, Ellie didn’t fancy driving the whole way there non-stop so we’ve checked through park4night and the first spot we found was just outside Selby on the edge of Selby Forest. We stopped here for about 90 minutes which gave us a good chance to take Ella for a quick walk and have some dinner as it was now 5:30pm.
    During dinner we realised how noisy the road was and on top of that we had no phone or internet signal.
    Fortunately I had already found another place nearby so after dinner and washing up we moved 10 miles away to a much quieter spot on the edge of Skipwith Common nature reserve.
    The common is absolutely silent and pitch black except for the sound of owls.
    At 8pm we couldn’t believe it as we were joined by a vanlifer and at 8:30 another one pulled up next to him, now we have the symphony of owls and sliding doors. However we do feel slightly safer having company and this is is far nicer than the woods and so far my worries about wild camping in the UK have been misguided.
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  • Day 2

    The Hunt for Uhtred of Bebbanburg

    March 1, 2023 in England ⋅ ☁️ 6 °C

    We had a pretty goods night sleep and woke up around 7:15am. After coffees we put the bed away and by 8am we were both dressed.
    The car park we had spent the night in had already started getting visitors, mainly dog walkers, but I didn’t want to be unprepared if someone knocked on the door and moved us along and once we were dressed we opened all the blinds and it looked like we could have just arrived.
    First task of the day was to walk Ella and we took a short wander through the low lying heathlands to stretch her legs and let her do her business. Then it was back to Wanda and a 90 mile drive to our next stop. The Angel Of The North.
    It rained most of the way and some of it was torrential and when we got to The Angel it had slowed to a steady drizzle, but the wind was biting.
    We got Ella out and did a quick lap of the Angel and within 10 minutes the rain started to come down again and we headed back to Wanda ready for the next part of our trip.
    It was 45 more miles and an hours drive and when we finally got to Bamburgh the rain had stopped and the sun was trying it’s best to come out and the castle looked magnificent towering over the landscape on it’s rocky outcropping as we drove through the village.
    I had checked on the parking and realised that it would be cheaper to pay the £4 for Bamburgh castle park which was all day rather than the £4:50 for 3 hours at the links road car park so we drove straight there and paid the parking attendant.
    We had brunch in Wanda first as we had both skipped breakfast and it was now 2pm, Magic Wanda Toasties are always good on a cold day.
    Then we headed into the castle.
    It cost us £15 each to get in which stung a little bit as we’re not used to paying to enter historical monuments in Europe but this is a privately owned castle and it has been beautifully restored.
    We entered the building through the old chapel and straight away there were ancient artefacts on display and the start of the history of the castle.
    Built on top of a black crag of volcanic dolerite, and part of the Whin Sill, the location was previously home to a fort of the indigenous Celtic Britons known as Din Guarie.It may have been the capital of the kingdom of Bernicia, the realm of the Gododdin people,from the realm's foundation in c. 420 until 547, the year of the first written reference to the castle. In that year the citadel was captured by the Anglo-Saxon ruler Ida of Bernicia (Beornice) and became Ida's seat.
    The castle was briefly retaken by the Britons from his son Hussa during the war of 590 before being retaken later the same year.In c. 600, Hussa's successor Æthelfrith passed it on to his wife Bebba, from whom the early name Bebbanburh was derived.Vikings destroyed the original fortification in 993.
    The Normans built a new castle on the site, which forms the core of the present one. William II unsuccessfully besieged it in 1095 during a revolt supported by its owner, Robert de Mowbray, Earl of Northumbria. After Robert was captured, his wife continued the defence until coerced to surrender by the king's threat to blind her husband.
    Bamburgh then became the property of the reigning English monarch. Henry II probably built the keep as it was complete by 1164.Following the Siege of Acre in 1191, and as a reward for his service, King Richard I appointed Sir John Forster the first Governor of Bamburgh Castle. Following the defeat of the Scots at the Battle of Neville's Cross in 1346, King David II was held prisoner at Bamburgh Castle.
    During the civil wars at the end of King John's reign, the castle was under the control of Philip of Oldcoates.In 1464 during the Wars of the Roses, it became the first castle in England to be defeated by artillery, at the end of a nine-month siege by Richard Neville, 16th Earl of Warwick, the "Kingmaker", on behalf of the Yorkists.

    Modern history
    The Forster family of Northumberland continued to provide the Crown with successive governors of the castle until the Crown granted ownership (or a lease according to some sources) of the church and the castle to another Sir John Forster in the mid-1500s, after the Dissolution of the Monasteries.The family retained ownership until Sir William Forster (d. 1700) was posthumously declared bankrupt, and his estates, including the castle, were sold to Lord Crew, Bishop of Durham (husband of his sister Dorothy) under an Act of Parliament to settle the debts in 1704.
    Crewe placed the castle in the hands of a board of trustees chaired by Thomas Sharp, the Archdeacon of Northumberland. Following the death of Thomas Sharp, leadership of the board of trustees passed to John Sharp (Thomas Sharp's son) who refurbished the castle keep and court rooms and established a hospital on the site.In 1894, the castle was bought by the Victorian industrialist William Armstrong, who completed the restoration.
    During the Second World War, pillboxes were established in the sand dunes to protect the castle and surrounding area from German invasion, and, in 1944, a Royal Navy corvette was named HMS Bamborough Castle after the castle.The castle still remains in the ownership of the Armstrong family.
    After the War, the castle became a Grade I Listed property.
    The public are allowed to view 14 rooms in total and the grandest of them is the grand hall in which we found the display of props from the last kingdom. Atlast we had found what we came for, Uhtred of Bebbenbug, or atleast 2 of his costumes. Unfortunately the display was tiny, consisting of just 4 costumes, Aylswiths bible, king Alfred’s mock diary of events in England and a few coins. I was a little disappointed and so was Ellie, it was hardly the display I was hoping for but I did want to see inside the castle anyway and this way we got a little bit more for our £30 entrance fee.
    It took us about an hour to view all 14 rooms including a small video show of the history and Ellie sitting on a throne, something she was rather good at funnily enough.
    Then while Ellie went back to Wanda and out of the biting wind and to check on the dog, I took off across the beach to get some photos.
    I didn’t realise it but to get to the best viewpoint was a good 2 mile walk across the beach into the wind. It was absolutely freezing and when I got to the place to take the shot the heavens opened again.
    I walked back to Wanda and it took me 45mins with the rain at my back all the way and by the time I got back I was absolutely soaked through.
    Straight away I stripped off and hung my jumper and trousers in the bathroom and my coat in the wardrobe. Then I lit the fire and put the fire on to dry me and my clothes out whilst Ellie made hot drinks.
    Once I was dry I took a drive up the road to a small car park which actually led to the place I had just walked back from, had I have known that earlier I could have stayed dry.
    Fortunately the rain had now stopped and I managed to get out and get some lovely shots of the castle from harkness rocks, a shot I had wanted for years.
    Then we headed back to the castle and parked up at the bottom in links road car park.
    At the moment they are trialling a park over night scheme so it will cost us £12 to park for the night between the hours of 6pm to 8am.Outside of those hours other charges apply starting at £4:50 for 3 hours.
    So to visit the castle and stay here in our own home has actually cost us £50. UK motorhome life just isn’t practical or financially viable, add to that the bad weather I don’t know why anyone would want to stay here.
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  • Day 3

    Back to Skipworth Common

    March 2, 2023 in England ⋅ ☁️ 8 °C

    Last night was breezy to say the least. The biting wind was so gusty we couldn’t even keep the gas fire alight which is a first for us, and the wind only got up during the night rocking Wanda and sending us to sleep.
    We knew we had to be up and out of the links road car park by 8am and I was up downing coffees at what I thought was 6:45am. Unfortunately the clocks are still on Spanish time and it was actually 5:45am when I got up and 6:40am when I realised I’d made a mistake.
    Several coffees later and at 8am we left Bamburgh. The castle and views had been great but the weather was terrible and it could easily be just the same during a British summer.
    I had intended on driving to Lindisfarne Island this morning but with the wind still howling and the heavy on and off showers we just decided to say we were done and head home.
    The truth is, finding somewhere to park is a nightmare because as a motorhomer we’re just not wanted in this country. Spaces are barely big enough for a family car in this country let alone a motorhome and finding somewhere free to park is even more challenging. We’ve paid £12 to park for the night in a designated area but we have to be out by 8am and the main tourist attraction, which is the castle doesn’t open until 10am so where are we meant to go for 2 hours?
    We decided to head back the way we came and head for Skipworth Common, being forced to leave at 8am put us on the A1M at rush hour which again is something I would never normally do and it took us just over 3 hours to make the 150 mile trek back to Selby.
    We pulled in to exactly the same parking area as we had used on the way up and this time the car park was much busier with around 6 other cars and plenty of dog walkers.
    Then after taking Ella for a quick walk we had a cup of tea and a Wanda Toastie before the 3 of us headed out through the heathland to explore the old RAF Base of RAF Rincorn.
    The trail is a 2 mile walk around the old bomb storage bays with a small memorial at the bays that was erected in 2010. There wasn’t much to see mainly just remnants of brickwork but I did find some old buildings in the woods that looked more interesting but were flooded. Ellies main focus was trying to find the woolly cows and heathland ponies but we didn’t find them either.
    We got back to Wanda around 3pm and then we just chilled and watched Netflix for the rest of the afternoon until it got dark and finally we were left on our own.
    It’s not as dark tonight, even though we are blanketed in cloud the moon is low and bright casting a silvery sheen across the heath and woods giving the silver birch an eerie glow, and tonight it looks like we will be here alone. Just us and the owls.
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  • Day 4

    The Great North Road

    March 3, 2023 in England ⋅ ⛅ 6 °C

    We left Skipworth common just after 9am. We all had a good nights sleep until around 6am when the temperature in Wanda seems to be at it’s coldest. Even Ella got cold and plonked herself inbetween us to get extra body heat.
    We started off on the A19 heading towards the M62 and from there we were heading south to pick up the A1.
    A few junctions before joining the A1 we left the M62 for a small village just outside Blythburgh where we filled up with Diesel before diverting through the back lanes and on the A1 or as it commonly known The Great North Road.
    There is nothing great about the great north road atall. It is a duel carriageway that runs from the south to the north of the country and it wasn’t fit for purpose when they originally built it so to compensate for the flow of heavy traffic they built the A1M which is just as bad if not worse because it goes from 3 lanes down to 2 and back to 3 again at various long stretches along it’s entirety. On both roads if there is accident it pretty much means a road closure and today was no exception.
    No sooner had I joined the great north road when we saw a traffic update on TomTom saying a 2 minute delay that within 30 seconds had jumped to a 6 minute delay then another minute later it jumped to 18 minutes.
    Fortunately TomTom also gave us an alternative route and soon after joining the duel carriageway we left it and headed through the back lanes and country roads running parallel to the A1. We could see the traffic backed up and it must have been atleast a 10 mile tail back and I was glad we had just managed to avoid it.
    12 miles later we rejoined the A1 the other side of the closure and it was eerie experience driving on a duel carriageway in broad daylight with no other traffic and it stayed like that until another 2 junctions and 20 minutes had passed. Then it was traffic as usual.
    We didn’t make any more stops and decided to do the whole 250 mile journey in one hit and luckily there were no more hold ups, but the last hour of driving was murder as we were both very hungry because we had skipped breakfast.
    Just after 2:30pm we arrived home and Ella was super pleased and flopped straight on her bed. She didn’t enjoy motorhome life.
    We emptied Wanda of our belongings and food and parked her back in the drive. It took us over 2 months to get her that dirty when we were in Europe now we’ve been away for a couple of days and she is black.
    I don’t think we will be motorhoming again in the UK anytime soon. The rubbish on the side of all of the motorways disgusted us and makes us ashamed to be British. The roads are also in a state of disrepair in the whole country and you really notice potholes in a motorhome. We didn’t really feel wanted anywhere we went with height restrictions on car parks and time limits at the car parks we could get in and we had no where to fill up with water, empty the toilet or grey waste without paying £25-£30 staying at a campsite. Most of which are closed at this time of the year.
    We will definitely be sticking to Motorhoming Europe where Wanda is welcomed.
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