Joined August 2019 Message
  • Day53

    Are we there yet?

    October 3, 2019 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    We approached Sarria the next morning after San Mamed, and were so happy we chose not to stay there in Sarria. It was a grim town, with lots of flats and busy-ness. We walked quickly through it and out onto the country path once again. We got chatting to a, couple from Mexico well he was english and she was Mexican id heard her drop some words about art and exhibitions and so we spent the day walking with them and their lovely daughter. Discussing art, life and everything in between We said goodbye over a quick lunch at a, bar and headed onto Ferreiros our stop for the night. This is the actual last 100 klms from here to Santiago it was a tiny village with an albergue and a bar and not much else. We had a really nice dinner and Mark finished off with the local arzua ulloa cheese and membrillo (quince paste) the cheese, was delicious creamy and soft with a delicate flavour. Spanish cheese is really very good. There was an amazing sunset that night that had us in awe of where we were and how lucky we were.
    Next morning it seemed to be dark for ages and no coffee in sight. Eventually a place appeared and we had our usual first breakfast of half a slice of potato frittata each and coffees. Then carried on to Portomarin which is a beautiful town on a river. Crossing the bridge over the river into town you are so high above it that we both felt slightly queasy and a bit dizzy. The town itself is pretty too with stone parapets and cobbled streets. We only stopped for an ice cream before we headed on to palais de reí. We booked a private room and the climb up the stairs was so steep we were almost crawling up to our room. We were a bit albergued out by this time and rooms are pretty cheap. A double room(marido or marriage room) costs around 35-50 euros and for 2 bunks in a decent albergue it's about 12-15 euros so for two its not much more to have your own room. Its not the bunk beds that we were fed up with but getting up in the morning and trying to dress and pack up in a room full of strangers, that's the bit we didn't enjoy. We didnt even mind the snoring, in fact we may have contributed to it a little as i had a bit of a cold coming on.
    Now we started to notice the the influx of new pilgrims with very clean clothes and bright sparkly clean shoes. They seemed to travel in packs and nobody said "buen camino" or even a "hola " as they passed by. Greetings which are usually shared liberally as you pass another peregrino. It feels nice and also if anyone is struggling or checking feet for blisters there's always the offer of help with fresh compeed plasters and a kind word. But the new peregrinos havent got that message yet. I began to feel grumpy about it and had a good old whinge to Mark. All day no greetings, no smiles even and it bothered me. We arrived in Melide a biggish town in comparison to where we'd come from we had another cheap private room with an amazing comfy bed and our own bathroom, luxury!
    That night we went in search of Pulpo, the galician speciality of boiled octopus. Mark ordered that and loved it, i tried a bit but it wasn't my cup of tentacle!
    It gets cooked in water then they chop off a, tentacle and add olive oil and paprika. I chickened out and had egg chorizo and chips. Very spicy chorizo it turns out!
    We had a chat about the newbies and i decided i couldn't carry on being such a whinger. I'd change my attitude and try and find a, place of peace in my heart for myself and for them. We also decided to leave a little later once the main crowd had taken off.
    Next day as were walking I got chatting to a, German woman who is walking just this last stretch. She was only about 35 but told me she had had 4 strokes and now also developed rheumatoid arthritis but really wanted to complete the walk to Santiago. She was doing this last part to see how she coped. I felt a bit humbled by her situation and it made me look at the newbies with fresh eyes. A lot of people come and do the last 100klms and then decide to come back and do the whole thing. But really does it matter how far you walk, how fast, whether you carry your pack the whole way or get it transported to your albergue, or even get a taxi now and then, everyday we are, all walking and appreciating the priveledge of being able to do this.
    So I said" hola, buen camino" to everyone and when I needed some space I slowed down let the pack move on, found a, quiet place inside and fell in love with the walk again. It felt to me I was in some hallowed place. We walked through green avenues of overhanging trees and leaf littered paths I was in the church that God (or whoever whatever) made for us not the churches that had been made for him. I felt such a strong sense of connection and reverence as I placed each foot on this beautiful land. Happiness is a, state of mind and we can each find it for ourself if we look for it and allow it to come to us. It seemed to me at that point that it's not a thing you can chase after or grasp it's more a sense of peace and rightness with the world , that develops for me. I felt like I had little bubbles of happiness popping inside my chest.
    Tonight's stop was Arzua the home of the delicious cheeses they also have another local cheese called tetilla which is formed in the shape of a woman's breast, great bit of marketing. We started calling it "titty cheese". It's a bit milder than the Arzua Ulloa.
    Tomorrow is our last overnighter before we begin the walk into Santiago, it seems strange to think we are nearly there. How did that happen!
    The day dawned with an ominous look about it, it was dark till past 9 am and didn't get much lighter. We were headed to Lavacolla, which literally means "bumwash". What a great name for a, town... or not!
    It's called that because it's the place where there's a small river where smelly pilgrims would wash their private bits before hitting the cathedral in Santiago. Can't greet the Saint with a smelly bum!
    Anyway the heavens must have decided we needed a wash as it poured down all day and we arrived in Lavacolla wet and bedraggled but hey we splashed out on a, private room bought some of that yummy local cheese and bread and sat on our wee balcony and ate and it was lovely.
    Next morning we declined to take the peregrino dip in the small river as we passed it by. It looked very very cold. So no thanks.
    Lots of pilgrims today, and I saw 2 buses who dropped off people they got off the nice warm coach and walked the last few kilometres into Santiago in pristine outfits, what's the point really. Apparently they get dropped at each stop to pick up their obligatory 2 stamps in the pilgrim passport and still get a compostela Oh well I think they've missed out on something very special.
    We walked towards the cathedral and could see the spires in the distance. As we walked into the approach to the square I felt a heightened emotion. I hadn't expected to feel overwhelmed like this but it all came back to me. The kilometres we'd walked, the people we'd met, the places we'd seen, how many beds, how many bocadillos, how many potato frittata and café con leche I'd drunk. And how far my feet had carried me. The tears streamed down my cheeks not in awe of any religious moment but in awe of what we'd done.
    We had a big hug and then felt a bit lost so we went and found our hotel and had a rest. It was emotionally overwhelming for me and I was also feeling a bit unwell with the cold I'd acquired so a rest was in order and Mark went and got our washing done, what a guy! . Then we had a little explore. We went to the cathedral which is in a state of repair for the holy year in 2021.
    We climbed the stairs to hug St James whose remains are said to be in the crypt below. We saw his silver coffin too. For me I realised this wasn't my church. I'd spent the last 51 days in the church of my choosing. In nature I felt the closest reverence ever for life and all its wonders than I could in this place of stone and statues of long dead saints and priests.
    The next day we got our compostela although we were a bit ambivelant about that. It's just a piece of paper and it will probably get stuck in a drawer and never see, the light of day again, but Daniel our son had said why not get it, you've done the walk and the thing is free so we did. It just involved a bit of queuing. They spell your name in Latin, so apparently I'm Maryam!
    They couldn't do Mo in Latin or maybe it would have been have been Mo'ium.
    We had a lovely dinner to celebrate our achievement. Mark loved all the seafood choices starting with a plate of Pulpo then a whole sole and I got to have the Spanish lamb. Followed by creme caramel. Can't go to Spain and not try the lamb! (quote from Joost in the movie the way).

    So 800 kilometres and 51 days. It's not easy but it's not hard. You can walk slow or fast you can get a bus or a, taxi in parts, you can get your bag sent on you could walk the last 100 klms only. You get to see so many dilfferent places experience a great camaraderie and live a very simple life. You travel light and you learn to let go of a lot of things. I'm sure I'm changed by the experience but it feels too soon to think about that. We will complete the journey by walking the extra 100 klms to Finisterre (the end of the world) and to Muxia. My legs still have walking left in them so tomorrow we will begin that last part of our journey. It feels fitting for us as Aussies to end at the ocean. I won't be burning my boots though!
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    Fabulous!! Love your writing Mo.


    Beautiful words Mo, shed a tear as I read it.


    Amazing words Mo and Mark and amazing memories


    A pleasure to read. Gives me tummy tingles. Well done Mo and Mark!

  • Day53

    Beautiful Galicia

    October 3, 2019 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    Now we are in Galicia the landscape is totally different. It's a but like England. Wooded forests and valleys. We arrived into Villa franca del bierzo.,a lovely town with a church that was so grand looking. Then feeling super fit we opted for the alternative mountain pass route rather than the road option. The path up was ridiculous it was almost ladder like but we pushed on. I kept thinking this next rise is surely the top. It wasn't for a very long time. Funny thing was we didn't see a single other person, pilgrim or local traversing the path, I wonder why? 🤔
    It was extremely beautiful looking down on the valley below and then to finally reach a forest of horse chestnut trees and the way down. Hmm somewhere along this path we managed to miss the turn downhill to Trabedelo. We ended up in a little village that we shouldn't have ended up in and added another 2klms to our day. The way down was steep, slippy, exhausting and we finally reached our albergue "Casa Susi" at 4.30.i may have been a bit grumpy and exhausted. I don't think we'd ever arrived so late. We just had time for a, shower and rest before a wonderful dinner. Susi is a pilgrim also who has walked many caminos and ended up here to begin her dream of running an albergue, 3 weeks after she opened the door a Spanish chap turned up by the name of Fermin and they fell for each other. Now they are married and run the place together. All the food for dinner comes from thier garden and it was superb. We feasted on vegetable lentil soup followed by pasta with Veggies and poached pears with Greek Yogurt for dessert plus plenty of wine. We met some great people and had a great night.
    The next morning was freezing as left with no brekkie, there'll be a cafe surely!
    There wasn't for ages and by the time we found one we were ravenous. In Ambasmastas a happy smiley lady made us a goat cheese omelette with tomato bread and excellent coffee. Worth the wait.
    The walk was lovely through wooded hill's, little villages and fields with cows who jingled as they ate. They wear bells around their necks I suppose so they are easier to keep track of.
    We arrived in the village of Las Herrairas the last place before the trek up to O Cebreiro, a mountain village which has us a bit scared. There's talk of hills like ladders and some people opt to take a horse ride up instead of walking.
    We were lucky enough to get a double room(matrimonial room they call it) for the price of a bunk and $5 extra for our own bathroom. The only bad thing is you also get a matrimonial pillow, one long biksyer pillow, share my life, share my pillow!
    We had an excellent meal lentil soup which was brought out in a tureen and was enough for a family of four (I did my best)
    Hamburger & chips for main, so, so. Mark had asparagus salad and trout and we both had cheesecake for dessert.
    We waddled with bellies full back to bed to rest before the climb the next day.
    After brekkie the next morning we stepped out into the cool morning air and began. We wanted to walk as far as possible before the horses caught up to us.
    We saw the evidence of the horses previous journey on the path. My thought as I walked was how am I ever going to get these boots back into Australia!
    I think I've trod in every type of farm animal shit there is to tread in.
    The guide book says of this section, to keep walking and think happy thoughts.
    Despite the shite, it was pretty like, fairy elf World, lots of moss and greenery. Up up up we went but it wasn't as bad as the mountain climb of a few days before. We arrived at the last stop Cafe and treated ourselves to a tuna empanada or Galicia pie and an orange juice. Now we thought the next 2 klms is going to be rough but in next to no time we'd reached the top and looked at each other and said "was that it", either we are getting fitter or this portion of the trek was a bit over exaggerated.
    O Cebreiro was sweet if a bit touristy but I guess they've got to make thier money whilst they can.
    We decided not to stay there and trekked on down a little to Linares and cooked ourselves a nice meal at the really good albergue there.
    As I walked out of o cebreiro I realised I'd left my glasses in the bar we stopped at. We'd chatted to an Irish guy and two Danes there. as I was stood on the path realising my loss phil(Irish bloke) appeared and said are you looking for your glasses!
    Anyway turns out the Danes have them and will leave them in a bar at our next stop for me to pick up. This is the way if the Camino. People will help you out and go that extra bit to return things that are lost. All achieved with the help of whatsapp. I received a, photo of the bar where I'd find my sunglasses and sure enough I picked them up the next day. Awesome Danish guy named Erik!
    We scored another private room at Tricastela and another awesome meal. Salmon and I tried the local soup "caldo gallega, there were a lot of unidentified bits in it which I gamely ate but one furry bit I found was left at the bottom of the bowl. Don't think I'll be trying it again. The main course of salmon and salad was much better, followed by what Spaniards call flan but is basically creme caramel, a chocolate one tonight, yum.
    Next stop is San mamed de camino and we got there through a forest once again. A lovely days walk with some amazing ancient trees.
    San mamed was awesome a lovely albergue with a lot of heart it was paloma y León albergue. Grwat vegetarian meal, more lentil soup but a very good one, quiche and potato frittata, fruit,sponge cake and joy of joys they had a kettle so I was able to get a cup of tea.
    Sarria is the next big town and the 100 KLM Mark. It's the place where a lot of fresh pilgrims will join the track as you can walk only the last Hundred k's and still receive a compostela. Let's see what happens I hope it won't be so crowded but it us what it is and as little Eva says you get what you get and you don't get upset.
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  • Day53

    Into Galicia

    October 3, 2019 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    We left El Acebo and picked our way down so carefully into Molinaseca thru a river of rocks Molinseca appeared to be shut as we arrived and there was not much to be had in the way of food or drink so we ploughed on to our destination at Ponferrada. This is the home of the Knights Templar stronghold. The castle is in the old town and we were lucky as it was free to enter on Tuesday which is when we arrived. It's quite a large complex that has been modernised and made accesible but I thought that in doing so it had lost a lot of its charm and had become a bit of a knights templar world. Afterwards We sat and had a, drink, a delicious sangria for me and a tuna empanada in the square it was oh so yummy. Tuna empanadas are a Galician speciality and we are almost out of león province and into Galicia.
    We stayed in a nice albergue with fresh sheets on the bunk beds and a home cooked meal. They had a kettle too so I had 2 cups of tea. Ponferrada is 200 klms from Santiago so only 200 klms to go.
    I can hardly believe we have walked 600 klms. My feet know though! 😲
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    Jo Hickman

    Truly amazing guys!

  • Day46

    A change in the air

    September 26, 2019 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    Suddenly it's cooler as we approach Astorga and the last of the Plains of the Meseta. Thank God that's over, I did not enjoy the Roman roads, the heat, the straight line of the way etc, etc, etc.
    So many people say "ahh but it's good for the mind,".
    I felt like I should like it but I did not. I like curves in the road, hills, ups and downs and the anticipation of what's around the corner. I don't have any major issues I need to go into my head to solve. Give me a hill over a straight flat road any day.
    Astorga was grey and rain threatened as we arrived at Siervas de Maria albergue. We were lucky and got a two bunk room so we could have the window open. We went for a, wander around and ate lunch. I had eggs and bacon and chips which came out with the eggs kind of chopped across the top of the chips and bacon in pieces sprinkled across it. The weirdest serving of a, simple meal I've ever had. The church bells here sounded like someone dropping a, rock in a bucket... Dung, dung, dung(a hint of what was to come in Galicia, the next province after Castilla y León)
    Later we sat on the terrace of the albergue and watched the thunderstorm come in then massive cannon blasts sounded throughout the town for what we do not know but it was very very loud.
    We are both feeling good at this stage no injuries, no blisters and enjoying the walking but we decided to take an easy day's walk to a medieval. Village of Castrillo de Polvazares., the streets are cobbled and it retains its medieval charm. The albergue here is tiny and is and another couple were the only people there. We had dinner at a Flores del. Caminó Pensión where they were also holding an art workshop and we got to meet the teacher and group. It was icon painting which looked very detailed. We found a small bar on the way home and sang an impromptu jam session with the locals which was fun.
    Next stop was Rabanal del camino where we went to hear the local monks sing the psalms in Gregorian chants. All I can say is give if I ever want to praise da lord I'm going to da gospel church not the Gregorian chanting church(totally depressing music), I'd even rather listen to country & Western music than Gregorian chants and that's saying something! I can't imagine God being cheered up or feeling praised by this chanting, I just wanted it to be over as quickly as possible.
    After this was Cruz de Fiero a huge cross where you stand with a stone you brought from home and throw it over your shoulder onto the massive pile that is already there. It was a bit of non place for me I didn't feel that reflective or soulful as I threw my rock. There were three coaches pulled up and lots of people clambering up the pile to get thier photo taken on the pile of rocks. Maybe some find it spiritual and meaningful but for me it was not. We moved on fairly quickly and I didn't even take a picture
    The funny part for me was as I walked the landscape changed and the track became rocky and rubbly as if I was still clambering through all of what I'd left behind with the rock that I'd flung on that pile.
    The road to El Acebo climbed higher into the mountains and there were more rocks that had to be carefully managed. My pace became that of a snail, slow and steady. I sang all the rocky songs I knew. Papa was a rolling stone, rock n roll, I wanna rock with you and so on until I saw the mountain village of El Acebo. Like Clovelly in Devon but in Spain and of course our albergue was right at the bottom. Oh well, great sunset if a bit nippy.
    I'm loving these hills and trees it's green and pretty and almost Swiss mountain like. My heart is happy.
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    Mo Godbeer

    It's getting cooler and wetter, rain on this day so ponchos were on.

    Mo Godbeer

    Storm coming into Astorga but it was lovely and cool and the colours were great.

    Mo Godbeer

    Night in Astorga

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  • Day37

    Rest day in Leon

    September 17, 2019 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    Yesterday we walked 24 klms along the old Roman road instead of along the highway from Sahagún to Mansilla de los Mulas.
    If you know yer Román roads then you know they are made up of layers and layers of rocks. So it made for a bumpy and slow walk. We had to stop a few times when there was shade (hardly any on the way) and give the feet an airing, it helps to prevent blisters forming. Take boots and both sets of socks off.
    We decided to bus 🚍 the last few clicks into León as we knew it was just car dealerships and factories for another 18klms ,no guilt felt whatsoever. There are pilgrims who walk every single kilometre and feel like they have cheated if they don't, that's their choice, I chose the bus and we booked a hotel for a rest day. The bliss of real sheets a double bed, towels and our own shower.🚿
    León seems like a nice city, it has a nice vibe. Today after a nights sleep we are chilling with a late breakfast, watching the people go by and not planning on doing too much except pottering.
    We have now walked 461 k's which I can hardly believe so we are over the halfway stage, we plan to walk to finisterre(the ocean) which is another 100 so that will be 900 if we can do it all. That's like walking to Sydney from Brisbane, wow. 😲
    Things I've noticed are
    Spanish don't do tea, no kettle and teabags in hotels and hardly a kettle anywhere to be found. I miss tea! 🥤
    They eat a Lot of bread, I love bread but I am getting a bit fed up of it. 🥪
    Europeans in general smoke a lot. 🚭
    Older guys go to the local bar for a few drinks and play cards or dominoes with their friends in the afternoon, I thought that seemed like a nice thing. 🍻
    Spanish ladies can be feisty. 🔥
    Spanish ladies dress beautifully on the whole, lovely shoes and outfits. I have often felt a bit underdressed in my Pilgrim attire that I wear everyday.
    Some days I have even had to commit fashion crime and wear socks with sandals to protect my sore blistered feet. 👡
    Yes you can walk on blisters!
    It's amazing how little you actually need to live.
    I have 2 outfits and 2 sets of socks to wear.
    1pr sandals 1 pr boots. 👢
    My whole pack weighs less than 6 kilos now as I've gotten rid of useless items like a swimming costume, evening top and things I've forgotten about.
    Happiness doesn't require stuff 🧐
    So till next time, adiós amigos 👨‍❤️‍👨
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    Mo Godbeer

    Roman road and wheat fields forever

    Mo Godbeer

    New door

    Mo Godbeer

    Dried bushes by the road

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  • Day34

    The long unwindy road and. None nuns

    September 14, 2019 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    Two nights ago we opted to stay at Carrion de los Condes at the monastery/nunnery???
    We were told there were nuns who will have a song song with us. We arrived early and waited outside to be let in with a pile of other tired pilgrims. At 5 30 we were to meet to discuss our Camino experience. We arrived and there was not a nun in sight, none nuns! Bit disappointed to not do a re-enactment of sister act, no Whoopi Goldberg nuns anywhere.
    The volunteers went through everyone's feeling about the Camino. Why are we all here?
    There was also a pilgrims mass where we were each blessed and given a paper 🌟 to light our way to Santiago.
    The next day was a tough one to Calzadilla de la Cueza, a virtual gravel desert with no trees, no shade, no bars, no coffee for 17klms. Well I have to tell you I found it pretty tough. It felt like 30klms of hell and I even had a little cry when I could not see a town each time I got to the top of a little hill.
    "there's not town in sight", I wailed. 😩
    Mark cheered me up with a cuddle and put Queen on loud to get us into a walking rhythm. A small breeze blew up to push us along too.
    Eventually the town(a, clutch of buildings) appeared and we could rest. I celebrated with a large glass of delicious sangria, yummmmm! 😲 🍷
    I realised something special about this experience,
    A few days back I had received a thought for the day in a little tiny church in Hontanas.
    "You can't appreciate the blessings without the struggle"
    Well that was my day that day, a struggle and the next morning(today) a day of joy, feeling blessed to walk in a cooler weather, interesting vistas and a nice breeze which made it easy to arrive to a beautiful albergue in San Nicholas del Real Camino. And I think we had a coffee in every town we went through. 😊
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  • Day30

    A few more pictures to share

    September 10, 2019 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 12 °C

    A few more pics from the last week

    Mo Godbeer

    Lots of amazing doors to be seen

    Mo Godbeer

    Yep up that hill lickety split, morning hike up from Castrojeriz

    Mo Godbeer

    And up at the top. What goes up must come down. Happy hikers 😊

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  • Day27

    Almost half way there

    September 7, 2019 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    We have now entered what is called the meseta, 231 klms of wheat fields, basically the bread basket of Spain, and they eat a lot of bread🥪!, me too atm. I'm developing a very nice carb baby! 😲
    It's mostly flat but we have encountered a few steep hills as we rise up to the meseta from the small towns in between.
    We had our 34th wedding anniversary in Burgos(7sept) and got a cheap hotel to celebrate. It was nice to sleep in a big bed rather than a bunk and to have our own bathroom. It seemed like such a luxury.
    I'm totally fine with the dorm and bunk situation. You make your own little space usually and they are mostly very comfortable mattresses. Lights out at 10pm and up at 6-7am.
    In Burgos we took a tour of the cathedral which was consecrated in 1260. It's huge and full of mind blowing chapels, cloisters, art, plasterwork and gillding. By the end of the tour we were somewhat overwhelmed. The tomb of El Cid is there too. He was a Castillian warlord born near to Burgos in 1043.
    After the cathedral we saw wedding guests from a wedding in the chapel cathedral. All kitted out in gorgeous dresses immaculate and beautiful. I did Feel a bit odd mingling with them in my hiking shorts and socks with sandals(to aid blister healing)
    We had a delicious meal and I tried the local morcilla black pudding, very yummy. Mark had a perfect salmon pastry parcel and vegetables.
    We walked home in the bitter chill wind. 🍃
    Seems like Spain turns off summer on September 1st. That's it, that's yer lot, it's all over red rover.

    The next few mornings were crisp and what you might call fresh. But it does feel like such a privelege to be up and walking as the sun comes up. 🌅
    In the last few days, we upped our klms and did a few 20-22 ishklm days, so today we chose a less taxing day of only 10 with multiple coffee stops, foot airing breaks and well it'd be a crime not to try those chocolate croissants wouldn't it.
    At days end when we arrive at our albergue the first thing we want to do is get our boots off. Release the toes, it's such a pleasure to take off the boots and thank the feet for another day.
    I'm pretty amazed those feet have now walked me 357 klms, we still have a few more to go to make it to the end at Santiago which will be 800 klms and maybe even to finnisterre, the end of the earth🌏
    But I know I can do it now.
    Just put one foot in front of the other and keep going 😁 🚶🚶 🚶
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    Mo Godbeer

    Burgos Cathedral splendour

    Mo Godbeer

    Ceilings in Burgos cathedral

    Mo Godbeer

    Supposed to be El Cids Coffin

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  • Day22

    Getting into the rhythm

    September 2, 2019 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

    It has been a few days since I last posted an update and now I feel we are finding our camino rhythm. Get up,grab a coffee, walk,then stop for brekkie usually a potato frittata another coffee, walk some more. Eventually we reach albergue/hostal. Then first job is a shower 🛀and to wash our clothess then a Náp or rest. Then we go in search of food.🍕 .Bars And cafés offer pilgrim meals around 9-16 euros which are 3 course meals with Bread water wine. Often they can tend to be a very carby offering. They differ in quality and amount. sometimes we buy food and cook ourselves and sometimes we get a pilgrim meal.. Tonight we made egg bacon🍳(for mo)omelette(for mark)and chips.we are in santa domingo de la calzada staying in a cisteine monastery,not the cistine chapel as I first said!
    Luxury tonight as we have our own room for the princely sum of 10 euros. It was 7 for a bunk in the dorm. Its basic but at least we have it to ourselves and no one can hear us snore!💤
    We walked 15 klms to get here it was a beautiful mild day. In fact its a bit cool tonight. The landscape is fields and vineyards with mountains⛰ in the distance.blackberries, fennel,pink thistles and sweet peas Line the path. Today we had a few hills to climb but we are better at those now. Im still slower than others but i dont care,i put some music on my phone put my ear buds in and bop down the road. Im singing away and enjoying it so much. Sometimes i even dance if the song takes me.
    Today we had a discussion about happiness as we walked and what we think it is. A nice little bit of thoughtful introspection.🧠
    Since i last wrote we sampled the delights of tapas in Logroño. Theres a whole street of tapas only bars,each competing to deliver ( i didnt see any liver though,bum bum!)the tastiest morsels. So many yummy things.we got a mushroom fritters,cow cheese with berries and i had pork slice also. It was a buzzing place with familes out on friday Night. Back in our hostal we could hear the partying carrying on till the next morning, only at 6 ish did it cease. Just in time for me to catch an hours kip before we set off for Navarrete. 😪
    The path out of Logroño was through a lovely green expanse of recreation grounds so it was a walk in the park really.😂
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    Mo Godbeer

    Church at Navarrete,just a little bit ott.

    Mo Godbeer


    Mo Godbeer

    Logroño streer art

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