Camino hike

August - October 2019
Excited to share the wonder of this ancient pilgrimage. Read more
  • 18footprints
  • 3countries
  • 77days
  • 137photos
  • 0videos
  • 39.1kkilometers
  • 36.1kkilometers
  • Day 1

    Cairns, Hong Kong, Madrid

    August 12, 2019 in Australia ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

    We left Cairns on monday full of excitement for the beginning of our adventure.
    Arriving in Hong Kong we had heard there may be some problems at the airport. So we stood in a queue that was about a kilometre long until we realised we were able to go through to the departures lounge. We had planned on a, day sightseeing in HK but decided to stay put which turned out to be a good decision in retrospect. A long day of finding the best places to rest. Where the best coffee was sold and how delicious the egg tarts were. We waited and waited finally our late 1am flight was on the departure board with a big red sign saying cancelled. Off to sprint to Cathay Pacific who assured us it was not cancelled. Anyway an hour and a half late at 2.30 we flew out of HK. I do hope that the situation there will be sorted out without anyone being hurt.

    Struck lucky twice with our seat choice. Getting a three seater between us on both long legs. . So once fed we both slept most of the way. Arrived in Madrid, so excited to hear all the Spanish language and trying to decipher it. Still feeling a bit nervous to say too much in my spanglish.
    Now at our hostel safestay in Madrid and feeling proud to have successfully negotiated the metro to get here.
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  • Day 4

    Pamplona, a day of u-turns

    August 15, 2019 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

    Almost went to Málaga today as the train attendant assured us that this was our train so we hopped on only to find someone else in our seat. Lucky that, as we compared tickets and she said you are on the wrong train. Finally we found our correct train and after a nice train trip from Madrid we hopped off in Pamplona. No idea where our albergue was and no phone data. Ahh I know what to do, follow those pilgrims, which we did only to end up on the wrong side of town. Blimey had to walk an extra 15 mins back the way we came. Not on Jan, But once we found our way we discovered a beautiful medieval city, the old Pamplona and our beds for the night. It appears we are staying in a broom cupboard. A room with no windows. Oh well as our grand daughter says you get what you get and you don't get upset. After a shower we ventured into town along narrow alleys full of character and charm. Didn't see any bulls but I ate a bit of one in a delicious beery gravy. We sat in the square and ate a fab meal, a little treat to celebrate marks birthday yesterday when we were too jet-lagged to think straight. So great sitting people watching, sipping our drinkd(water) and eating a, great meal. Wandered around and went in an amazing church with wooden floors and vaulted ceilings. Those Catholics certainly do drama and bling really well. Then back to our cupboard where I imagined I was Harry Potter living under the stairs. Actually the bed was very comfy, who needs fresh air. So to sleep .Read more

  • Day 8

    Reaching higher heights

    August 19, 2019 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 12 °C

    So yesterday I said I was at the top of the Pyrenees. Well turns out I was wrong I was only half way up. We walked 17klms today across and up,up ,up to the top and it was hard but not terrible. The ups seemed ever ending but it was a nice cool day and mist came in and the landscape became Tolkein world .I kept expecting Gandalf to appear around the corner. Is there a Spanish Gandalf?
    When we started our downward descent we could barely see each other. It was magical and ethereal. Then we turned a corner and there was the monastery of Roncesvalleux. Yes, showers,,rest and food in that order. Here's some pics from today.
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  • Day 16

    An early day

    August 27, 2019 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

    Not too far today from Estella to Villamayor ,about 9 klms,its a sweet small town with only 2 albergues. The last stretch to here was a little taxing but not too bad. Uphill is not as bad as downhill. I stopped often and ate some blackberries from the bushes. There is also lots of wild fennel growing along the path so the walk is filled with fragrant smells,occasionally i stop to crush some in my hand and release its beautiful fragrance. Our Room is lovely, great shower and now relaxing with our washing done and on the line.
    Relaxing now and it's nice and cool
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  • Day 22

    Getting into the rhythm

    September 2, 2019 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

    It has been a few days since I last posted an update and now I feel we are finding our camino rhythm. Get up,grab a coffee, walk,then stop for brekkie usually a potato frittata another coffee, walk some more. Eventually we reach albergue/hostal. Then first job is a shower 🛀and to wash our clothess then a Náp or rest. Then we go in search of food.🍕 .Bars And cafés offer pilgrim meals around 9-16 euros which are 3 course meals with Bread water wine. Often they can tend to be a very carby offering. They differ in quality and amount. sometimes we buy food and cook ourselves and sometimes we get a pilgrim meal.. Tonight we made egg bacon🍳(for mo)omelette(for mark)and chips.we are in santa domingo de la calzada staying in a cisteine monastery,not the cistine chapel as I first said!
    Luxury tonight as we have our own room for the princely sum of 10 euros. It was 7 for a bunk in the dorm. Its basic but at least we have it to ourselves and no one can hear us snore!💤
    We walked 15 klms to get here it was a beautiful mild day. In fact its a bit cool tonight. The landscape is fields and vineyards with mountains⛰ in the distance.blackberries, fennel,pink thistles and sweet peas Line the path. Today we had a few hills to climb but we are better at those now. Im still slower than others but i dont care,i put some music on my phone put my ear buds in and bop down the road. Im singing away and enjoying it so much. Sometimes i even dance if the song takes me.
    Today we had a discussion about happiness as we walked and what we think it is. A nice little bit of thoughtful introspection.🧠
    Since i last wrote we sampled the delights of tapas in Logroño. Theres a whole street of tapas only bars,each competing to deliver ( i didnt see any liver though,bum bum!)the tastiest morsels. So many yummy things.we got a mushroom fritters,cow cheese with berries and i had pork slice also. It was a buzzing place with familes out on friday Night. Back in our hostal we could hear the partying carrying on till the next morning, only at 6 ish did it cease. Just in time for me to catch an hours kip before we set off for Navarrete. 😪
    The path out of Logroño was through a lovely green expanse of recreation grounds so it was a walk in the park really.😂
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  • Day 27

    Almost half way there

    September 7, 2019 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    We have now entered what is called the meseta, 231 klms of wheat fields, basically the bread basket of Spain, and they eat a lot of bread🥪!, me too atm. I'm developing a very nice carb baby! 😲
    It's mostly flat but we have encountered a few steep hills as we rise up to the meseta from the small towns in between.
    We had our 34th wedding anniversary in Burgos(7sept) and got a cheap hotel to celebrate. It was nice to sleep in a big bed rather than a bunk and to have our own bathroom. It seemed like such a luxury.
    I'm totally fine with the dorm and bunk situation. You make your own little space usually and they are mostly very comfortable mattresses. Lights out at 10pm and up at 6-7am.
    In Burgos we took a tour of the cathedral which was consecrated in 1260. It's huge and full of mind blowing chapels, cloisters, art, plasterwork and gillding. By the end of the tour we were somewhat overwhelmed. The tomb of El Cid is there too. He was a Castillian warlord born near to Burgos in 1043.
    After the cathedral we saw wedding guests from a wedding in the chapel cathedral. All kitted out in gorgeous dresses immaculate and beautiful. I did Feel a bit odd mingling with them in my hiking shorts and socks with sandals(to aid blister healing)
    We had a delicious meal and I tried the local morcilla black pudding, very yummy. Mark had a perfect salmon pastry parcel and vegetables.
    We walked home in the bitter chill wind. 🍃
    Seems like Spain turns off summer on September 1st. That's it, that's yer lot, it's all over red rover.

    The next few mornings were crisp and what you might call fresh. But it does feel like such a privelege to be up and walking as the sun comes up. 🌅
    In the last few days, we upped our klms and did a few 20-22 ishklm days, so today we chose a less taxing day of only 10 with multiple coffee stops, foot airing breaks and well it'd be a crime not to try those chocolate croissants wouldn't it.
    At days end when we arrive at our albergue the first thing we want to do is get our boots off. Release the toes, it's such a pleasure to take off the boots and thank the feet for another day.
    I'm pretty amazed those feet have now walked me 357 klms, we still have a few more to go to make it to the end at Santiago which will be 800 klms and maybe even to finnisterre, the end of the earth🌏
    But I know I can do it now.
    Just put one foot in front of the other and keep going 😁 🚶🚶 🚶
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