• Molly Hofer
  • Molly Hofer

Asia 2026

An open-ended adventure by Molly Read more
  • Trip start
    January 24, 2026
  • Varanasi part I

    January 26 in India ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

    We’ve got a private room that shares common spaces with a hostel here in Varanasi. It’s a tranquil place relatively close to the city center. So far it’s been mostly resting and recovering and a bit of exploring, rituals on the holy Ganga, a market adventure to get some last minute wedding attire with Shaily and her cousin, and a few short hang outs with Vishy.

    We’re enjoying our chai and of course the best cuisine 😋
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  • Varanasi part II

    January 30 in India ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    Shaily invited us to her dance performance on Friday night, and to say the least, it was very impressive! Kathak is a classical dance form from northern India that is marked by its intricate footwork, rapid spins and storytelling.

    Besides the precision of rhythm of the footwork,the pure stamina it took to dance (and also chant) for over an hour at this pace is beyond me 🫠 I felt a great sense of admiration watching Shaily hold her poise and grace the ENTIRE performance like a boss woman ✨💜

    Also some random pics of food and market shopping hehe 😛
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  • Puja (prayer) Blessings for the upcoming Wedding

    We started in the morning and were finished around 3pm with this ritual- it was beautiful, with a sacred fire, and many chants and prayers. We felt honored to be present and send all our best energy into that circle for the most unforgettable wedding week ever for our dear friend Vishy and also for his lovely family. (Note: most Indians find this part boring 🤣 but i loved it cause it was new and of course rituals make me feel very connected).

    I wore a teal silk Saree that Nani (Vishys relative) gifted me last year. Varanasi is known for its silk and particularly silk sarees :)

    The red paint on the feet is called Aalta- it’s a natural dye from the beetle leaves and sindur.
    It’s a symbol of auspiciousness, fertility, and marital bliss. Primarily used during weddings, festivals (like Durga Puja), and by classical dancers, it represents femininity, heritage, and the welcoming of divinity.

    What a lovely start!
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  • Day 2: Rest for us :)

    February 2 in India ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

    On the second day we could rest- the family, however, was busy planning and organising for the upcoming days.

    We had to move hotels, and were given a very warm welcome by the hotel manager and his staff. It was very sweet and we appreciated it, at the same time we didn’t understand why we were greeted like king&queen when we’re just some little backpackers 😅 although Varanasi has many Hindu/Indian tourists that visit the city, there are not many foreigners so maybe that is why.

    On our day off we explored the market and enjoyed the tiny winding streets of the old city.

    Particularly interesting was trying Malaiyo for the first time! It is a rare, cloud-like, frothy winter sweet dish from Varanasi, available only from November to February. Made by churning milk under the open night sky to absorb dew, it is flavored with saffron, cardamom, and garnished with pistachios, offering a light, melt-in-the-mouth texture. Also known as Nimish or Makhan Malai, it is typically served in clay cups (kulhad) in the early morning.

    It was soooooooo dreamy 😍

    Also featured here is Jalebi, a sweet I really like. Often considered a national delicacy, these crispy, syrupy, orange or yellow coils are made from fermented flour batter and served hot during festivals and celebrations. They are similar to funnel cakes and often paired with milk or yogurt.
    I got them for breakfast hehe 😜
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  • Day 3- Sangeet

    February 3 in India ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

    Sangeet is a fun pre wedding event full of music and dancing (and of course, lots of delicious food 😃). Family members prepare choreographed dance performances and the evening closes with everybody on the dance floor. Basically Sangeet is just for celebration and fun! We enjoyed ourselves very much 🙃Read more

  • Day 4- Tilak

    February 4 in India ⋅ 🌙 20 °C

    The Tilak ceremony is a crucial pre-wedding ritual in Hindu marriages, signifying the formal acceptance of the groom by the bride's family, acting as an engagement or "handshake" of commitment. Held at the groom's house or a temple, the bride's father or brother applies a red vermillion (kumkum) mark on the groom's forehead, accompanied by gifts, sweets, and, in some traditions, a sword or jewelry to symbolize protection and prosperity.

    In Vishy’s case, it was held at his home. There was also a ritual called Choomna, which means “kissing”- in which all the women close to the groom bless the wedding ring by kissing it 5 times. I put all my good energy and love into those
    kisses!!

    Another beautiful day spent with one of my favorite families on earth 💖
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  • Day 5- Haldi & Mehendi

    February 5 in India ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    Mumpi was stuck at home for the day with a worse case of food poisoning than I had… it was the breakfast at the hotel that got us 🫣 Due to the fact that I ate a bit less and also have more “Indian bacteria resistance”, I was still able to participate, albeit with longer breaks sitting with bellyache 😅

    During the Haldi ceremony tumeric paste is applied to the couple's skin before they enter matrimony which is believed to cleanse and bless them.

    There were lots of other smaller rituals built into the day, many of which are only for the married women of the family to participate in.

    It was also the day to apply henna designs to the women’s hands, which came out beautifully 😍
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  • Day 6- WEDDING!

    February 6 in India ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C

    Today was the official
    marriage ceremony, which began with a grand exit of the home and a grand entrance into the venue! We finally got to see Vishy’s bridge Riya in person, and when I tell you she was gorgeous, I mean STUNNING! 🤩
    We met Riya’s friends and family as well, who were all so kind and welcoming.
    The ceremony itself consisted of lots of prayers and gestures, for example, the pair was gifted many rings by family members. There was also the funny tradition “Juta Jurais”, where the brides family tries to steal the grooms shoe(s) in order to bargain for money. It’s all in good fun and can get a bit competitive 😅
    There is one thing I will say I appreciate most about Hindu traditional weddings- the seriousness of the event reflects the seriousness of the commitment about to be made. Based on personal experience watching lots of my peers, marriage is taken way more lightly and that’s at least part of the reason the west provide a stark contrast, where divorce rates are at 50, 60 %.
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  • Day 7- Reception

    February 7 in India ⋅ 🌙 15 °C

    Way to go out with a BANG❗️The open air reception venue was decadently decorated, decked out with the most delicious (ALL vegetarian 😃) buffet, fit for receiving all 700 guests, apparently a very modest number for an Indian reception 🫠.

    After attending all the ceremonial days before, I had gathered quite a few new friends and family members, so it went by soooo quickly chatting and eating the entire night; I couldn’t believe it when my watch said 11:30pm and, feeling like a princess in my classy black blinged out Saree, my coach was about to turn into a pumpkin, so I had to go.

    This was one incredible experience that I will hold in my heart forever. I feel so connected to Vishy and his family, and am so grateful to begin forging a connection with Riya and hers. Oh, and I am so looking forward to the next wedding (Shaily 😍)!!!
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  • Alternative Festival (Koh Ta Kiev)

    Feb 17–25 in Cambodia ⋅ ⛅ 36 °C

    Some of the people that I used to hang out with a lot in Brussels/ at festivals around Europe were supporting a small event on a remote Cambodian Island called the Alternative Festival. Since I was already in Asia, had the tim, and was excited to reconnect with some familiar faces, when the organisers asked me to be on call for Psycare I gladly accepted. I ended up also doing first aid (gotta love baby festivals for their chaos 😛🥰) which was at least 1/3 small foot injuries from people dancing and running around the jungle 🤣 great people, lovely conversations, rewarding work 💖Read more

  • Siem Reap I

    February 27 in Cambodia ⋅ ☁️ 28 °C

    This city reminded me a bit of Chiang Mai. With a cute Center that mixes both traditional mom and pop restaurants, cafes, and street food vendors with a couple fancier “western” cafes sprinkled in here and there, lots of greenery and a big pretty river running through it all…it has a charming atmosphere and generally is a city that I could bare for more than a day 😅Read more

  • Floating Village- Siem Reap II

    March 2 in Cambodia ⋅ ⛅ 35 °C

    From Siem Reap we did a trip to the Floating village, which is currently in dry season so it’s not really “floating” but interesting nonetheless to visit. The sunset on the boat ride home gleamed over one side of the horizon while a big bright full moon simultaneously lit up the other part of the sky.Read more

  • Flooded Forest- Stung Treng

    March 5 in Cambodia ⋅ ⛅ 31 °C

    After a super stressful situation trying to figure out where the hell the bus left from in Siem Reap to Stung Treng (no one seemed to really know 😅) and making it on the bus JUST in time, we arrived and got settled before embarking upon a lovely kayak adventure through the flooded forest the next morning.

    It was quite the experience, as we nearly got on the wrong boat, because again, no one can give straightforward specific directions and finding locations are always a guessing game 🤣 Our “guide” (necessary to have one because this is a protected community) was in a tandem kayak with the man who we booked the tour with (he came along to translate), and was inexperienced in kayaking… so much so that he dumped them both in the river twice, and they had to dive to find the tour operators iPhone 🤣 all in all was a funny silly day with a few hiccups but nothing to stress about 🙂
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  • Don Det, 4000 Islands

    Mar 6–9 in Laos ⋅ ⛅ 31 °C

    What a lovely (but also relatively expensive for SE Asia) little cluster of islands in southern Laos. My days on the Mekong were slow and spent biking, kayaking, and hanging out with dogs 💜

    We took a kayak tour on International Women’s Day with Jack (England), Christina and Leah (mom and daughter from US/Denmark), and Mr. lek, the tour guide.
    The tour itself was great and had down to earth authentic Laos vibes. We started off at a pretty fast pace traversing the Mekong with our tandem kayaks, and I was lucky enough to have one of the puppies on mine 😍 She chose me!!! We docked and walked around 40 minutes through fields, protecting Mekong and River (puppies) from a few locals who apparently kidnap and eat dogs 😳.

    We made a stop at a smaller waterfall to swim and cross a rapid to try our luck at catching fish on the other side with our bare hands (well, at least Mr. lek got some 😅)…

    We walked to a shady spot and made a fire to cook our lunch over it as a team, including making eggs in a bamboo shoot that Mr. lek quickly carved to shape. Mumpi made us chopsticks out of bamboo.

    After we took our time to float along the sunset, and finally ended by cooking dinner together at Mr. Leks shop.

    The tour was great, but the guide was highly problematic. Mr. Lek talked poorly about other people basically the entire tour- the Laos people, Chinese people, Jack’s girlfriend(once he’d left), and his ex wife. He spoke frequently about how his tour is superior to others and bad mouthed all the other companies in town. At best this man is deeply insecure and looks for validation from tourists who awkwardly listen, at worst he is a liability and I suspect may even be violent and unstable.

    My first reaction was to have empathy because maybe today he is not himself or he is going through something really difficult… but the more space you allow for him and listen, the more fucked up it got.

    To put it simply: after dinner he told us that his wife miscarried their baby and blamed her saying „she killed it“… and closed the segment about his ex by bragging about threatening to murder her because she hurt his feelings. This was on international women’s day by the way in front of a group that included 3 women. I was clearly not having it, held a short but mic dropping speech that made his genitalia recoil back into his body as he stared at his shoes in well deserved shame, and then left.
    Wouldn’t be a full experience of Women’s Day without one act of indignance to put a man in his place.
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  • Bolaven Plateau Day 1

    March 10 in Laos

    We got an early morning bus to Pakse, slept one night in a really cheap but super comfy and quiet dorm, and then set off the next morning for the Pakse scooter loop.

    There are a lot of coffee plantations with their own restaurant/ cafés along this first section of the loop, but they kind of seemed like a tourist trap to us; plus, we lived in the coffee region of Colombia (whose coffee is way better by the way, sorry Laos 🙊). Needless to say we sped by them and arrived in the afternoon at our fancy accommodation on Fandee Island.

    This is a magical little island that was created with care and love and attention to detail. There are absolutely no plastic water bottles allowed (they have free filtered water and reusable cups there), and also no toilet paper allowed- water to wash only! So this ecological place is really making a difference, and I was of course so enthusiastic about their policies.

    3 of the island dogs accompanied us on a walk to our first waterfall of our journey, which was only about a 15 minute walk. Young kids were playing and even got some tourists to do some arm wrestling with them and jump off the rocks into the waterfalls. I watched the kids feeling so happy to see them playing while I strummed my ukulele, which they all came over to listen to intermittently between running around. We strolled along the river afterwards until the sun was setting.

    I got the absolute best night of sleep ever. It was so magical being rocked gently on our little dock in the river, the purple curtains drawn around us to provide not only privacy but the feeling of being cozy in our clear little dome, as we gazed up at the (so luckily!!!) very clear night sky and watched the stars as we drifted off into dreamland.
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