Badnjina

The road from Sarajevo to Pluzine in Montenegro steadily grew worse, that is narrower and rougher until it was virtually one at a time. The TIR lorries had to travel at less than 20 kph since they occupied the entire road, especially on hairpin bends. Shades of the Northern Frontier in Pakistan. Along the way I noticed quite a few houses being rebuilt, but little investment in infrastructure. Hard to escape the feeling that Bosnia is the runt of the Balkan litter. And to cap it all, the guard at the border post leaving Bosnia wanted to stop me as he said my Green Card was not valid in BiH. Luckily they let me through without a shakedown but it was a bizarre thing to check, after the event one might say.
But the journey was worth it to see the inspiration for the O'Hara plantation name. Once again it was pouring with rain as I raced along the smooth road to Pluzine, so while Black Mountain loomed ahead in the Durmitor National Park, there was no chance of an awesome photo. The existence of this fractured terrain is what has guaranteed the Montenegran independence.
The Tara gorge is one of the deepest in the world, only 300' less than the Grand Canyon, and a magnet for kayakers and rafters. The mountain ranges are some of the last true wilderness areas left in Europe and many paths cross them for trekkers, who have to carry their own supplies. The Montenegrins seem to be aware of the potential but hopefully will not make the interior more accessible.Read more