Along the Silk Road

Mei - Juni 2019
Petualangan 42-sehari oleh Ngaire Baca selengkapnya
  • 33footprint
  • 4negara
  • 42hari
  • 302foto
  • 9video
  • 8,8kkilometer
  • 4,1kkilometer
  • Hari 33

    Mosques, madrassas & minarets

    17 Juni 2019, Uzbekistan ⋅ ☀️ 32 °C

    It was a relief to finally arrive in the pleasant city of Bukhara- until we stepped off the bus into 35 degrees! Escaping into the cool of our lovely hotel, we were even more delighted to discover fully functional plumbing in our room. After a quick shower it was off to a football match between the local team and the hot favourites from Tashkent. It felt great to be experiencing a slice of life for a short while, instead of visiting yet another tourist destination. The match was pretty one-sided (5-0 to the visitors) but still good entertainment and the indigo blue sky as the sun set was spectacular. Females over the age of 10 were pretty much non-existent, despite there being no restrictions on their attendance. We'd got used to being stared at and photographed a while back.

    At its peak, the ancient city of Bukhara boasted 250 madrassas, 200 minarets and a mosque for everyday of the year. By this stage of our trip, we'd seen our fair share of each of these, as we travelled through the predominantly Muslim countries of Kyrgyzstan and Uzbekistan (as well as Western China). So it wasn't surprising that monument burnout was beginning to set in. However, Bukhara still had a few surprises in store for us.

    The 10th century tomb of Ismail Samani, founder of the cultured Samani dynasty, was one such surprise. Cleverly designed using basket-weave brickwork, it reflects the status of science in society at the time, with its mathematically derived form. There's a legend that if one particular brick was removed, the entire building would collapse. So it's basically a giant Jinga game! Apparently it survived the perils of the Mongols because Ismail instructed his army to cover it with sand. When Genghis Khan arrived, he found only a large mound. Clever!

    The Ark is the heart of ancient Bukhara, around which the city has formed. Fortified, destroyed and rebuilt many times, this complex of buildings became home to the emirs (leaders). From the roadside, with the cars buzzing by, this spectacular structure seemed quite otherworldly.

    A welcome afternoon rest from the oppressive heat, followed by a visit to the Kalon Minaret and Mosque (where I managed to lose my hat). At the time it was built (1127), the minaret was probably the world's tallest building. Apparently Genghis Khan was so awestruck that it was spared from the general Mongol destruction policy. The minaret was nicknamed the "Tower of Death" in the 19th century, when criminals were tied in sacks and hurled over the side.

    Dinner turned into a repeat of at least 3 previous experiences, in which my meal failed to materialize! "We don't have ...." I'm told, once the rest of the party has finished eating. Just as well there's plenty of bread!
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  • Hari 34

    The tour ends but not our adventure

    18 Juni 2019, Uzbekistan ⋅ ☀️ 34 °C

    One thing that Uzbekistan has done well is turn their traditions into thriving businesses. Carpet weaving, metal craft, ceramics, silk work and the like contribute to the economies of small towns and larger cities alike, often geared to the tourist industry. It's easy to be sceptical about the authenticity of goods sold from a city stall, which makes the experience of purchasing from someone actively engaged in producing the goods special. I had the pleasure of purchasing a lovely top from a man sitting at a sewing machine in tiny workroom within a memorial complex we visited in Chor Bakr, a small village out of Bukhara.

    The memorial complex of Chor Bakr was built over the burial place of Anu Bakr Said who died in the year 360 of the Muslim Calendar (970-971 AD). He was one of the four of Abu-Bakrs (Chor-Bakr) who were thought to be descendants of Muhammad. Because of this connection, the Bukharan aristocracy liked to be buried there. It's now become a bit of a pilgrimage site. It was quite pleasing to see something that looked to be largely unrestored (for a change).

    Next stop was the Sitorai Mohi Hosa Palace, which was the summer palace of the last Emir, Alim Khan. Built in 1911, the three-building compound incorporates elements of both Russian and traditional Bukharan architecture. Building actually started in the late 19th century and occurred over a 20 year period, which explains the differences in style. The interior rooms were quite over the top! Particularly impressive was the exterior of the White Hall and the completely separated Harem. The latter is situated some distance from the main buildings, beside a large pool and pavillion. Apparently the women would frolic in the pool and the Emir would stand on the pavilion and toss an apple to the chosen one.

    As well as being the place where the Sufi Order was founded, Gijduvan has gained fame as a centre for glazed ceramic production. This was also the final tourist site of our tour. Our trip notes indicated we'd be having a "masterclass" with ceramic artists. But that was not to be, instead being given a description of the process undertaken (which is impressive), before being shepherded into their showroom. Unfortunately not to our taste but we were treated to a glimpse of Muslim school life as another group visiting were holding a music demonstration for family and friends.

    Back in Bukhara for a free afternoon and morning, which was mostly spent in our hotel room to avoid the heat. A 4 hour train trip back to Tashkent followed by a pleasant farewell dinner. Final farewells to our companions of the last few weeks (and Les and Wendy, our companions of 32 days!). A few hours sleep then off to the airport for our flight to Istanbul for our early morning flight and the final leg of our Silk Road adventure.
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  • Hari 36

    Turkish delight

    20 Juni 2019, Turki ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

    Being independent travellers again was a welcome change after 32 days travelling with others. Tours definitely have benefits, with the opportunity to travel with interesting others being a highlight. But having ones time organised on a daily basis is less appealing. And indeed the tour itself had in fact felt like 3 separate tours, with different guides with their own styles. We had to work hard to retain that sense of being "along the Silk Road" (as opposed to just going to interesting places.

    Istanbul is the magical city where East meets West, with the Asian and European sides clearly demarcated by the Bosphorous, a narrow, natural strait. The cultural influences of the many empires that once ruled here is especially evident in the very compact Old City, which makes seeing the sites very easy.

    After dragging our suitcases along steep and narrow cobbled streets, then up 5 flights of stairs to our AirBNB, we settled in to our home for the next 4 nights, acquainting ourselves with our hosts Sui and Ibriham and their 3 cats. The sweeping views of the Bosphorous from our top floor apartment were breathtaking, with the construction cranes in the foreground only marginally impacting on the quality of the experience.
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