Basque Country ramblings

May 2017

A 17-day adventure by Nuala Read more

List of countries

Spain
France
Ireland
Northern Ireland

Categories

None

3.0kkilometers traveled

Means of transport

Flight2,438kilometers
Walking-kilometers
Hiking-kilometers
Bicycle-kilometers
Motorbike-kilometers
Tuk Tuk-kilometers
Car-kilometers
Train-kilometers
Bus-kilometers
Camper-kilometers
Caravan-kilometers
4x4-kilometers
Swimming-kilometers
Paddling/Rowing-kilometers
Motorboat-kilometers
Sailing-kilometers
Houseboat-kilometers
Ferry-kilometers
Cruise ship-kilometers
Horse-kilometers
Skiing-kilometers
Hitchhiking-kilometers
Cable car-kilometers
Helicopter-kilometers
Barefoot-kilometers

Newest first

Footprints
Photos

Traveler Basque Country ramblings
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- Day 7
- Sunday, May 14, 2017 at 9:59 AM
- ☀️ 19 °C
- Altitude: 92 m
- Spain Marmiz 43.297567, -2.63961343°17’51” N 2°38’23” W
Walking to Gernika
May 14, 2017 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C
A beautiful walk, forests and hills, with the sounds of birdsong and rivers. I was enjoying it so much that I missed the arrows and climbed an extra hill! The views were great, though. The maps on my phone made it very easy to get back on track.Read more
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- Day 8
- Monday, May 15, 2017 at 7:10 AM
- ⛅ 12 °C
- Altitude: 18 m
- Spain Urdaibai 43.319097, -2.67940943°19’9” N 2°40’46” W
Gernika
May 15, 2017 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 12 °C
Gernika, the town bombed by German and Italian fighter jets in 1937, in support of General Franco. It's a modern city today, with a very moving Peace Museum.

My original plan was to stop here for a couple of hours and continue walking to the next place. However, after visiting the museum I decided to check into a hotel and have a long siesta. It's a really hot day and my feet are quite sore. Plus, I'd like to see a little more of this place.

I enjoyed wandering around the city in the evening - it was full of families enjoying the sunshine and older people out for a walk. This is one of the many things that I love about the towns and cities in Northern Spain - evening strolls seem to be the norm for all ages.Read more
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- Day 8
- Monday, May 15, 2017 at 10:10 AM
- ⛅ 22 °C
- Altitude: 17 m
- Spain Arana 43.307192, -2.67791743°18’26” N 2°40’41” W
Gernika-Lumo
May 15, 2017 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C
I was lucky to be able to spend a few more hours in Gernika this morning. I went to the market and managed to buy fruit and cake, using my less than perfect Spanish. I visited the Biscayan Assembly, the Gernika tree (new and old) and the Picasso mural. http://www.euskoguide.com/places-basque-country…

This is a very interesting and friendly city. The lady in the hotel was delighted that I took the time to see the important landmarks and visit the market. She's very passionate about her city - it was lovely to chat to her, even though I could only understand about half of what she said!

I finally decided to do something that I should have done much sooner - buy new trail shoes and post my boots home. I found a great outdoor shop and bought a new pair of Salomons - so it's adios to my boots! They are perfect for the Mournes, but not for summer walking in Spain.Read more
TravelerMarket looks wonderful. Well done on the Spanish!! 🙂
5/16/17Reply
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- Day 8
- Monday, May 15, 2017 at 12:43 PM
- ☀️ 27 °C
- Altitude: 11 m
- Spain Parroquia de Santa Eufemia 43.419704, -2.71998743°25’11” N 2°43’12” W
Bermeo
May 15, 2017 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 27 °C
My blisters aren't healing, so I decided not to continue walking. I'm having a rest day 'of sorts' and making my way to San Juan de Gaztelugatxe on the coast. The first part of this journey involves a very pretty train journey to the even prettier town of Bermeo.Read more
TravelerGood decision! Well done. 🌸
5/16/17Reply
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- Day 8
- Monday, May 15, 2017 at 4:29 PM
- ☀️ 25 °C
- Altitude: 58 m
- Spain Gaztelugatx 43.447311, -2.78492843°26’50” N 2°47’6” W
San Juan de Gaztelugatxe
May 15, 2017 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C
Here's the lowdown on this place:
http://www.euskoguide.com/places-basque-country…

As the guide says: San Juan de Gaztelugatxe is connected to the mainland by a man-made stone bridge. The bridge transitions into a narrow path that contains 241 steps and zigzags its way back and forth. Once there, you will find the church which has a bell situated along the front of its facade. According to legend, after you have completed the climb, you should ring the bell three times and make a wish.

So, I did all of those things - with a full backpack. Not quite a rest day after all! It was great to reach the top, but my favourite part was probably sitting on the rocks at bottom and looking back up at this very unusual structure.

I'm staying in Bilbao tonight, before starting my journey to Bayonne for the Camino del Baztán.Read more
TravelerStunning pics!
5/16/17Reply
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- Day 9
- Tuesday, May 16, 2017 at 9:50 AM
- ⛅ 21 °C
- Altitude: 26 m
- Spain Parque de Doña Casilda de Iturrizar 43.267303, -2.94200643°16’2” N 2°56’31” W
Stopover in Bilbao
May 16, 2017 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C
After San Juan de Gaztelugatxe, I walked to Bakio and took a bus to Bilbao. Baikio was a pretty soulless place - a surf beach and lots of empty holiday apartments. I felt very out of place as a sweaty backpacker.

I'm also feeling a bit out of place in my very fancy hotel in Bilbao. It's a really nice hotel, with great views of the park and in a good location for tomorrow's travels - but it feels like an interruption to my walk through areas of peace and natural beauty.Read more
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- Day 9
- Tuesday, May 16, 2017 at 10:59 AM
- ⛅ 25 °C
- Altitude: 50 m
- Spain San Mames 43.26017, -2.94971343°15’37” N 2°56’59” W
Bilbao
May 16, 2017 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C
I'm on the move again, on a bus to San Sebastián. Today is a 'buffer day' between my week on the Camino del Norte and the Camino del Baztan. It was good to have a later wake-up time this morning and I made the most of the very nice hotel breakfast.

I need to resist the urge to walk today. Yesterday was to be a rest day, but my Fitbit says that I walked 33,662 steps. No surprise that my blisters were screaming at me last night 😊Read more
TravelerSelf-care required!
5/16/17Reply
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- Day 9
- Tuesday, May 16, 2017 at 6:40 PM
- ⛅ 23 °C
- Altitude: 33 m
- Spain Iglesia de Nuestra Señora del Manzano 43.362572, -1.79130543°21’45” N 1°47’29” W
Hondarribia
May 16, 2017 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C
I seem to have inadvertently chosen the prettiest place ever for my final night on this part of the journey. Hondarribia is so beautiful, especially the old part of the town where I'm staying tonight. I'll take the little ferry tomorrow, across the estuary to France. Really looking forward to returning to the Camino del Baztan.Read more
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- Day 10
- Wednesday, May 17, 2017 at 11:31 AM
- ⛅ 19 °C
- Altitude: 11 m
- France Le banc des Berritsu 43.3755, -1.76363343°22’32” N 1°45’49” W
Hondarribia to Hendaye
May 17, 2017 in France ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C
This was a travel day, with a little bit of walking. OK, probably more than a little bit of walking as my fitbit recorded 28,200 steps. 😊

I took the ferry across the estuary from Hondarribia to Hendaye. A very pleasant little jaunt, on a sunny morning. There were just four of us in the boat.

My plan was to walk from Hendaye to Saint Jean de Luz, but after walking along Hendaye Plage, I decided that I didn't really want to do this. I walked back along the beach, through the town and along the estuary to the railway station. The estuary/river walk is part of a GR route and a few people stopped me to ask where I was going! Two Italian men were particularly keen to chat, as they had walked the Camino Francés a few years ago.

I hung around the train station for a while, before taking the train to Bayonne. This was so much faster and more comfortable than the bus.Read more
TravelerGorgeous pics - is that your next car!?
5/18/17Reply
TravelerI always take a photo of a Renault 4! They are getting harder to find, though.
5/19/17Reply
TravelerWeird girl! 😬
5/19/17Reply
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- Day 10
- Wednesday, May 17, 2017 at 10:17 PM
- ⛅ 15 °C
- Altitude: 27 m
- France Nive 43.49622, -1.46950143°29’46” N 1°28’10” W
Bayonne
May 17, 2017 in France ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C
I checked into the little hotel on arrival in Bayonne and did the usual ritual of having a shower, washing my clothes and setting up an improvised laundry line. I then went out for a little ramble around the city.

The other Baztán peregrinas arrived a little later and we chatted as though we were old friends. A great start to the next part of the adventure!Read more
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