Ribadavia - wine & terror

Ribadavia sits at the confluence of the rivers Avia and Miño, is the headquarters of the Ribeiro Denominación de Origen (DO) which produces some of Galicia's best white wines and is surrounded by verdant, rolling hills dotted with vineyards and hilltop villages. What better reasons do you need to visit?

We headed for an aire recommended in our guidebook, on the edge of the old town. It seemed that lots of locals had the same idea as it was very busy when we got there. Not what we were expecting in November. Chatting to an English-speaking motorhome neighbour, we found out why it was so busy. Our visit coincided with the annual 'Noite Meiga' (Night of the Wicked), similar to our Halloween, and, as well as a night of revelry in the old town, there was to be a terror show in the castle that night!

A trip to the excellent Tourist Office provided us with lots of ideas on how to spend our time here with over 100 vineyards, thermal baths and historic buildings to explore. We stopped off at a bar in the town square to sample some of the famous Ribeiro wine where you can enjoy a glass of award-winning wine for just €2 including a tapas.

When we returned to the square a few hours later, it was packed with witches, vampires, lots of Count Draculars, ghosts and even a werewolf - and that was just the adults! A band of drummers began a rhythmic beat as a group of witches performed a spell-binding dance, screams and all. We were mesmerised by it and wandered around with the locals enjoying the atmosphere. We didn't bother with the show at the castle but did hear the fireworks going off as we went to sleep.

Next morning, with the aire slowly emptying of vehicles, we strolled along the river, admiring the rows of vines to our side. Once back in town, the rain started so it seemed a good idea to head into a local hostelry that had caught our eye the night before. Once through the heavy wooden door, it was like being in a medieval tavern; dimmed lighting, a small fire in one corner, thick stone walls and arches. We asked for two red wines and were given a small terracotta bowl each. We were then shown over to two barrels, one of red wine and one of white. It was a case of help yourself and everyone was, so we followed the locals. To go with our wine we had a small meat & pastry tapas to share. When we left, our tapas and 5 bowls of wine cost just €3!!

Our original plan was to be based here for a few days and do some exploring on the bike but the weather forecast for the coming week looks wet, which isn't fun on a bike. So, we shall head south into northern Portugal and return when we can be sure of good weather. From what we have experienced so far, we are looking forward to it.Read more