Osjiek

One of my favorite things about river cruising is waking up right in town, steps from all the sights. We've been to the coast of Croatia, but this is on the opposite border along the Danube.

Osijek’s neo-Gothic cathedral rises out of this little town square and was built with 3.5 million bricks. It was funded by a priest selling local beer rather than tithes. It’s the second-tallest building in Croatia (for now).

Inside, it's full of fascinating stories - windows restored with donations from New York, the only Croatian cigarette company ad tucked into a stained-glass panel, and ceiling figures that look suspiciously like paper dolls. The people were originally painted naked...until someone decided they should probably have clothes (the Sistine Chapel would like a word, haha).

One fresco still shows shrapnel damage from the Yugoslavian wars, but Jesus still ascending. A Slovenian oak cross, carved from a single piece of the same wood Venice rests on is in another nook. A massive rendition of the Last Supper is above the altar. And instead of the usual north-south layout, the church opens to the east, a symbolic gesture to welcome Eastern Christian traditions, requested by the big-hearted founder.

Our guide told us the church’s founder was a twin - his brother died as a baby and, in her grief, their mother couldn’t remember which twin had passed. So at baptism, he was given both names, just in case.

She also told us about Croatian weddings (she was married in this church). A “small” wedding hosts 200–300 guests, spans 2–3 days, and includes booze stations lining the procession route. Guests bring cash gifts in envelopes, read aloud at the reception - so no pressure or anything. The bride must waltz with every single guest. She says it's exhausting as bride or guest!

The little elephant statue on a corner in the square has a bit of a dark legend behind it. "Once upon a time, a circus parade, which had an elephant, was passing through the city. The elephant was old and tired, he couldn't take it anymore, and he collapsed dead on this corner. As it was too big to carry, and there was a butcher shop on the corner, the elephant's body was carried in pieces. In memory of this shocking event for the city, the people of Osijek erected a monument to the poor elephant, which still stands on its corner, and you may hear someone say 'let's meet by the elephant'."Lue lisää