• Amy DB
  • Amy DB

La Dolce Dent

Tracing Roots, Faith, and Family through Italy: This journey combines our family roots, beautiful towns, and slow-paced exploration - honoring the Campoli and Di Pietro heritage while savoring the best of Rome. Leggi altro
  • Inizio del viaggio
    6 aprile 2026
  • Mamma Mia!

    7 aprile, Italia ⋅ ☀️ 66 °F

    We're right near the main piazza in Cisterna di Latina. It's such a nice little town. Big enough to have lots of shops and services but lots of families and people walking around everywhere. Lots of people hanging out and talking in parks. The church is open all day with people coming in and out and praying. People leave their bikes leaning up wherever and not locked up. And cars are left with windows down with everybody's stuff in them.

    We have our windows open to the street right now and we can hear the people in the street chatting. And for the first time ever in Italy I actually heard someone exclaim, "Oh, Mamma Mia!"
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  • Creepy Building (Convento di Sant’Antonio Abate)

    8 aprile, Italia ⋅ ☀️ 66 °F

    One of the most fascinating surprises we stumbled across in Cisterna di Latina wasn’t a famous ruin or a tourist site at all. It was this massive abandoned building sitting quietly in town, looking like something between a monastery, factory, and forgotten fortress. It's rumored to have ghosts, of course.

    After some digging, I finally figured out what it was: the former Convento di Sant’Antonio Abate, and you aren't allowed to go in (I'm guessing local teens do, though). There are legends/local discussions about underground passages connecting it to Palazzo Caetani and the caves beneath the town, and it sits just outside the old Renaissance town walls.

    Originally built in the 1500s as a Franciscan convent by the Caetani family, it was later converted into an industrial mill before eventually being abandoned in the 1970s. That explains the strange mix of Renaissance architecture and industrial additions. Monastery windows beside loading docks. Ancient stone walls beside factory structures.

    Apparently it once contained important frescoes and has long been part of local conversations about restoration and preservation.

    Italy is full of moments like this. You turn a corner expecting an ordinary street and suddenly find a forgotten piece of history hiding in plain sight. I can't imagine it couldn't be a pretty big tourist draw if they decided to do something with it.

    Willow probably would have campaigned to have her senior pics here if we were locals, lol.
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  • Piazza XIX Marzo and Palazzo Caetani

    8 aprile, Italia ⋅ ☀️ 72 °F

    The weather has been absolutely perfect we explored the main square of Cisterna di Latina. Lots of trees in bloom and citrus fruits everywhere.

    "Piazza XIX Marzo in Cisterna di Latina is named to commemorate March 19, 1944, a pivotal and tragic day in local history. On this date, during World War II, Nazi troops ordered the civilian population to evacuate (or "disperse") the city, causing a forced exodus, with many inhabitants fleeing the destruction. "

    There are extensive caves under the Palazzo, and when the Nazis occupied the town over 4000 locals hid in the them for nearly two months. They used to let people tour the caves, but they have been closed for quite some time (never trust Italian websites, haha).
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  • Church of Saint Mary of the Assumption

    8 aprile, Italia ⋅ ☀️ 72 °F

    This is likely the church that my great grandparents, Giulio and Argia, were married in...but with a major caveat. It was originally built in the 16th century, heavily modified in 1793, and reconstructed after WWII bombardments. The only surviving piece in the church today is the statue of Saint Roch (the white statue in the pictures). The church is still the main place of worship for the town.

    We ran into a very nice guy there who spoke enough English for us to ask about records. Records older than the 1940's are stored offsite and he didn't have a key - they were married in 1904.

    He showed us the crucifix still up for easter on the altar - Christ's hands are not nailed to the cross, but opened wide to embrace us.
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  • Tres Tabarnae and Umbrella Pines

    9 aprile, Italia ⋅ ☀️ 63 °F

    We stopped by the location of the Tres Tabarnae. The gate was open, but we were promptly informed that it wasn't open, there were just some of the volunteers there. They let us stay long enough to take pics and turn around in the grass. :)

    The "Three Taverns" are mentioned in Acts 28:15 - "The brothers and sisters there had heard that we were coming, and they traveled as far as the Forum of Appius and the Three Taverns to meet us. At the sight of these people Paul thanked God and was encouraged." So we know that Paul was right here two thousand years ago!

    It was the major stopping point before Rome. It's also where the three roads met - those of you familiar with the classical Trivium will recognize that phrase. So this place has both Biblical and Classical roots, and it was a thrill just to drive past it. Someday I'll go back when it's ready to be opened more to the public!

    Heading out we saw so many of the very classically Italian umbrella pines.
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  • Welcome to Sermoneta!

    9 aprile, Italia ⋅ ☀️ 66 °F

    We had hoped to visit the Tres Tabarnae, but it was closed to the public. We pivoted and decided on a whim to go to a small hill town in the Lepini mountains called Sermoneta. Getting up there was an adventure - I was honking going around the hairpin turns even though the road was supposedly two ways.

    There were hardly any tourists other than us, and it was so peaceful. It's still classically medieval and lots of locals out and about. Lots of twist turny little alleyways and I wanted to explore all of them. Plenty of stairs and steep streets, so we got our exercise!

    Dad was enchanted, and I taught him to say "Molto Bene" to people since he kept saying "Very good" to everyone who didn't speak English.
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  • Il Giardino degli Aranci

    9 aprile, Italia ⋅ ☀️ 66 °F

    Mom noticed a tiny entry way into a garden near a convent, and we stumbled upon the Garden of the Oranges, full of fragrant blossoms and bees. I immediately thought of Yeats' bee-loud glade.

    I could have stayed here all afternoon! I wish we could somehow share the smell that filled the air. I tried to capture the sound of the bees.Leggi altro

  • Going Up Towards the Castle

    9 aprile, Italia ⋅ ☀️ 68 °F

    It feels like its always up, up, up here. Everything is blooming and the cats are very friendly! The one brownish striped one follow us for a long time.

    We ran into an older gentleman carving walking sticks. He didn't speak any English but he and dad seemed to hit it off and he showed us his sticks. He also gave us a sample of his honey - the bees use the orange and lemon blossoms, and maybe jasmine. Delizioso!Leggi altro

  • Lunch in Sermoneta

    9 aprile, Italia ⋅ ☀️ 68 °F

    Stopped for lunch on one of the steep streets. A friendly kitty yelled at us just like Hermione does. :)

    Mom and I had artichoke fettucine (it's artichoke season!) and Dad had walnut gnocci. Delicious!

    A nearby shop lured us in with local treats. They are kind of a little bit almondy, chocolatey, and cinnamony. The smell in the street was amazing!
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  • View from Our Room in Alatri

    9 aprile, Italia ⋅ 🌙 57 °F

    My great-grandfather, Giulio Campoli, was born in Alatri. I messaged the commune before the trip to confirm that it was his birthplace. Turns out that's a very common name, so fortunately I had his parents names (Francisco and Antonia) and they were able to provide confirmation that he was born there!

    It's a hill town in an area full of hill towns - we could see multiple other towns from our deck.
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  • Chiesa di San Francesco

    10 aprile, Italia ⋅ ☀️ 63 °F

    This was the first of the Alatri churches we came to. It contains an unusual fresco called Christ in the Labyrinth in the convent next door, but it wasn't open as everyone was still recovering from a festival the day before. :)

    Built in 1220, this gothic style church purports to have a cloak from St. Francis of Assisi, donated by Francis himself. It's been dated with modern techniques back to the 13th century. It's kept in a climate controlled display near the altar.

    There are also a few pieces of 14th-15th century frescos with John the Baptist in his animal skins and with bare legs.
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  • Santa Maria Maggiore

    10 aprile, Italia ⋅ ☀️ 64 °F

    This church was built in the 5th century over an earlier temple of Venus. The polychrome wooden sculpture completed by a polyptych (13th century) was a treat to take a closer look at!

    The juxtaposition between the centuries old stone lectern and the microphone tickled my funny bone.

    We were often the only ones in these churches - it's a very quiet town.
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  • Alatri's Cyclopean Walls

    10 aprile, Italia ⋅ ☀️ 64 °F

    What are cycolpean walls you ask? Huge walls from pre-Roman times that made of massive multi-ton stones placed perfectly together in such a way that no one exactly sure how they were able to do it. Yes, ancient alien theories come into play.

    They were built somewhere between 6-3 centuries BC, and now form the base of Alatri's acropolis. They use polygonal masonry - irregular, massive limestone boulders that fit together perfectly without cement.

    They are called cyclopean because for a long time it was believed mythical monsters made them. For now, the current theory is that the Henrci people built them...somehow. They are only found here in Alatri, and it's a pretty neat claim to fame.

    The views from the top of the acropolis are fantastic.
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  • Cattedrale di San Paolo

    10 aprile, Italia ⋅ ☀️ 66 °F

    Ok, I'm going to have two warnings for this trip on posts. If you don't want to see a possible dead body, don't look at all of the photos here.

    This church on the top of the acropolis has two very interesting stories.

    First off we have the Beata Maria Raffaella Cimatti. She was a nun during WWII and treated the sick and wounded at great risk to herself - she sounds like she was an woman of heroism and virtue. She even interceded with a Nazi general for the people of Alatri.

    She was beatified (given the title of Blessed) for a miracle of healing she was involved in, and because her body lying in state in the church is said to have not corrupted.

    Secondly, one of Alatri's claims to fame besides the walls is the Eucharistic Miracle of 1228. A young woman was trying to make a young man fall in love with her, and was told by a local conjure woman that she needed the communion wafer as an ingredient for a love potion. I'll let the Pope of the time explain further:

    "(Pope Gregory IX in response to Bishop Giovanni V of Alatri)

    Gregory, Bishop and Servant of the Servants of God, to Venerable Brother Bishop of Alatri, greetings and Apostolic blessing.

    We have received your letter, dearest brother, in which you informed us of a certain young woman misguided by an evil woman, who, after having received from the priest the Most Holy Body of Christ, held the Sacred Host in her mouth until the right moment to conceal the Holy Eucharist in a cloth.

    After three days, she discovered the same Body which she had received in the form of bread transformed into flesh, as everyone has been able to verify with their own eyes.

    Because both women have humbly revealed this to you, you desire our opinion regarding the punishment that should be imposed upon them.

    First, we give thanks with all our strength to Him Who, though He always operates in marvelous ways, in this case repeats miracles and produces new wonders so that He calls to sinners, converts evildoers and confounds heretics while strengthening faith in the truth of the Catholic Church, sustaining hope and reigniting charity.

    Thus, dearest brother, by means of this apostolic letter, we dispose that you inflict a milder punishment on the young woman, whom we hold to have done this more from weakness than malice, especially because it can be believed that she has sufficiently repented in confessing her sin.

    To the instigator, who with her perversion pushed the young woman to commit sacrilege, apply those disciplinary measures that we believe opportune to leave to your judgment. She should also visit the nearest bishop so that she can humbly confess her crime, imploring pardon with devout submission.”

    The Pope interpreted this episode as a sign against the widespread heresies regarding the Real Presence of Jesus in the Eucharist and pardoned the two repentant women. A commemorative medal was coined on the 750th anniversary of the miracle; one side showed the cathedral façade and the reliquary, while the other a bust of Pope Gregory IX with the Papal Bull.
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  • Longhi Castle

    10 aprile, Italia ⋅ ☁️ 66 °F

    We decided on a whim to do a tour and hand to wait a while. It was TOTALLY worth it! This castle is owned by the Longhi family, some of whom still live there today - the first guy that let us in the doors was apparently one of them.

    The castle was prison to Pope Celestine V. He was a simple priest who was elevated to pope as they thought he would be easy to control. There was a schism at the time, and the other pope (the anti-pope) had him overthrown and imprisoned. He lived in a tiny cell for years before dying.

    WARNING: somewhat creepy stuff ahead

    A custom of the time was to create keepsakes from the body parts of various people. There were small boxes and curios with what looks like quilling and various organs and teeth. The close ups are bits of Celestine's heart and a tooth.

    One of the later Longhis had seven daughters and then finally had a son, Francesco. He died at three, and his oldest sister confessed on her death bed that she had poisoned him. The mother, Amelia, never got over it and had tiny versions of him painted into all of her portraits, as well as changing her clothes to mourning black. Oh, and she also preserved his body in wax and kept it displayed with all of his clothes and toys. (FYI, the guide strongly encourage us to take pictures).
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