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India 2022-23India 2022-23
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India 2022-23

December 2022 - January 2023
An Intrepid Travel tour and then safari!
https://www.intrepidtravel.com/uk/india/southern-india-125562?date_start= Read more
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  • TravelerIndia 2022-23
    111
    Day 11

    Mysore to Mammalapurum

    December 30, 2022 in India ⋅ 🌙 25 °C

    The train trundled through the countryside stopping at various stations and eventually at around 11:30 p.m. the other travellers in our area got on, just after I'd managed to fall asleep. They made a right racket sorting themselves out and as a result it was hard to get back to sleep. The air conditioning also seemed to have given me the sniffles.

    After a relatively sleepless night, we arrived on time in Chennai at just after 7:00 a.m.. We negotiated the crowds and found the minibus that would take us straight to our next destination which is Mammalapuram, about 40 km south of Chennai. Fortunately we didn't get stuck in too much traffic in the city and by 8:30 we were at our hotel.

    Unfortunately it wasn't possible to check in this early and so we had some breakfast at the hotel and then Ed and I went out for a wander. It's definitely far more humid where we are now on the east coast of India compared to where we've just come from and it also felt much hotter even though it was early.

    After a relatively short stroll. We came back to the hotel and headed up to the pool area where some of the rest of the group were relaxing. I changed and had a swim and then we sat around chatting until just after midday when our rooms were finally ready and we were able to check in.

    We had a couple of hours before meeting up to explore the town and temples and so a few of us went for a walk to get some food and something to drink.

    At 3.30pm we returned to the hotel to meet our local guide to explore the sights of Mammalapuram. Our first stop, just behind the hotel, was Arjuna's Penance, a bas-relief. Essentially massive natural boulders, some of which have been carved into temples. The local tourists seemed to enjoy using the landscape as a play park, and some of the carvings were very intricate.

    Next we took an auto rickshaw to see Pancha Pandava rathas, a series of carvings which represent the 5 chariots of the Pandavas which date back to the 7th century.

    Finally we took the rickshaw back to the town to the Shore temple. It was only about 2km, but the traffic was very very busy and our driver weaved in and out to try and get through!

    The Shore temple is, apparently, India's most photographed monument. It suits right on the shore and again is over 1,000 years old. Time and tide has taken its toll on the monument and the carvings have eroded from their former glory. Nevertheless, it was really to see how impressive it must have been in its prime.

    There was a dance festival taking place near the temple but as it was now 6pm, we didn't linger and we headed back to the hotel for a shower before meeting for dinner with the group.

    Dinner tonight was at a beach side restaurant overlooking the shore and, as expected, sea food was a major part of the menu. For novelty value, as much as anything else, Ed and I shared a Pomfret first which had been cooked in spices. It was really tasty!

    After a final beer of the evening, at about 9.45pm we walked back to the hotel for another early night.    Read more

  • TravelerIndia 2022-23
    111
    Day 12

    Mammalapuram to Pondicherry (NYE)

    December 31, 2022 in India ⋅ ⛅ 27 °C

    Another day, another journey.

    After breakfast at 7.30 we boarded another minibus for the 2 hour trip to Pondicherry, the French capital of India. It was under French rule for over 200 years, even while India was part of the British empire and only gained independence in 1954, seven years after India became an independent state. It's not part of one of the states and instead is ruled directly from Delhi.

    Before we went into the centre of Pondicherry itself we stopped at an experimental settlement called Auroville, about 10 miles outside the city. The town was set up in the early 70's but an Indian man and French woman and is aimed at people who want to find their inner self and live to a core set of values. We were told that it is not a religion and that it is focussed on the individual. (When we went later to see the burial places of the two founders, I found this hard to understand as there were a number of individuals there who were clearly worshipping!). The town itself had a visitors centre and we walked along to see the large golf ball shaped building (a bit like a gold version of Epcot at Disneyworld) where there is a meditation room along with 12 other rooms around the edge. Once we had seen this we walked back and had food (cheesecake, samosa and ice cream) along with a banana lassi.

    We got back on the minibus and within 30 minutes we had arrived at our hotel. We had a couple of hours to relax before a tour of Pondicherry French quarter so we tried to find a car for a beer as it was now 2pm, but failed!

    At 3.30 we met up with the group again and had rickshaws to the French quarter for a tour with a local guide. She was very knowledgeable although I'm not sure how she expected us to remember the list of dates and facts that she reeled off. We visited the burial place of the founders of Auroville (rather strange) and then wandered around the old part of the city towards the waterfront. The French part of the city does look very different to other parts of India and the buildings were a definite reminder of ones in France.

    Once at the beach front we walked along the promenade. The whole area was bustling and there were a number of parties planned for the evening! The loud music and crowds made it very difficult to hear the guide! The tour finished at just after 5pm and a number of us found a rooftop bar for a drink. (Given the early hour, it was a surprise that they had almost run out of beer)!

    We got a rickshaw back to our hotel for a shower and change before meeting again to go back to the French quarter for dinner at just after 7. The food was mainly French inspired but the beers were cold! After eating we wandered shopping the shore taking in the atmosphere which was now very lively and it was hard to remember that most of the revellers would not have been drinking.

    At 10.30 we tried to find rickshaws to take us back to the hotel and eventually managed to hail enough of them to get us back for 11.15. we went to the hotel bar (more warm beer, and Budweiser at that, and also no tonic water if you wanted gin!).

    We celebrated the New Year as the only people in the bar and after about half an hour, with some of us having a little dance, the bar was closing and so we headed to bed!    Read more

  • TravelerIndia 2022-23
    1
    11
    Day 13

    Pondicherry to Madurai

    January 1, 2023 in India ⋅ ⛅ 30 °C

    Another year, another day travelling!

    We met up with the group at just before 8 (hangover free!!) and boarded the minibus. First stop was a bakery for breakfast. The pain au chocolate was very tasty and the coffee was good too! We also picked up provisions for lunch as we would be on the train.

    Back on the minibus we headed out of Pondicherry to Villapuram in order to catch the train to Madurai. The train was a little late and we ended up leaving the station at about 12pm for the 5 hour journey. The train goes all the way from Chennai to a temple town in Kerala and takes over 20 hours so we were in a sleeper carriage rather than the seats that we'd had on the first train. We spent the time eating some food that we'd bought at the bakery, dozing, reading and watching the world go by.

    We arrived at Madurai at around 5pm and walked the short distance to our hotel. There was a cycle rickshaw arranged and we left immediately for a tour of the city. The men pedalling were ancient! Halfway through the tour we stopped and walked through the banana market.

    After an hour or so, we arrived at the end and had some delicious street food and a coffee/marsala chai. We then went to a shop which sold all sorts of crafts and where you could have clothes made overnight! After a couple of the group had made some purchases we walked back to the hotel and had a chance to freshen up before going to the 7th floor rooftop restaurant for dinner and drinks! The chicken tikka kebabs were delicious! After dinner and some drinks it was time to head to bed!    Read more

  • TravelerIndia 2022-23
    11211
    Day 14

    Madurai to Periyar

    January 2, 2023 in India ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    We were up early for a tour of the Sri Meenakshi Amman temple. Before meeting up with the group we walked a short distance to have a marsala chai as we were skipping breakfast. At 7.45 we met up and walked about 10 minutes to the temple where we met a local guide. We usual, we removed our shoes but also had to leave electronic devices and cameras outside the temple.

    We spent about 45 minutesc waking around the temple although we could not go into the shrines. The stone built temple with 4 main towers and a number of smaller ones, all intricately decorated and painted, was constructed between the 12th and 18th centuries. Inside there were brightly coloured ceilings and also a large central quadrangle almost completely taken up by a pond and fountain. We heard that the temple is usually completely renovated every 12 years.

    We wandered back to our hotel and had a chance to pack and shower before leaving in a minibus to drive to our next stop, Periyar tiger reserve!

    About two hours into the four hour journey we stopped for some food at a local bakery. After another 2 hours we arrived in Thekkady, back in Kerala state, our home for the next two days. Before getting to the hotel we stopped at a soccer plantation and saw some of the spices growing and how they process them. There was the obligatory shop at the end where I did pick up a few packets!

    On to the hotel and we arrived just after 4. The hotel Abadi is a series of lodges with large, albeit dark, rooms in a typical Kerala style. We checked in and then a few of us went to a hotel down the road for a beer before meeting up with the rest of the group for dinner at Grandma's restaurant. We're a bit higher here and so it started to get a bit chilly. By the time we had food and wandered back it was time for bed!    Read more

  • TravelerIndia 2022-23
    Day 15

    Periyar

    January 3, 2023 in India ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    Early start this morning at 7am to do a jungle walk in the tiger reserve. It was a beautiful bright morning and we spent 2 hours walking though the jungle with a forest guide. We were given protective socks against leeches! We didn't see any tigers but we did see all of the animals below!

    White cheeked barbitt
    Family of Indian Gaur
    Wild chickens
    Minor bird
    Scarlet minuet bird
    Orange minute bird
    Hoopy bird - very rare
    Racket trail drongo bird
    Serpent eagle
    Treepie
    Black monkey
    Brahamy kite
    Giant malibar squirrel
    Macaque

    After the walk finished we went into the town and had breakfast of omelette, toast, watermelon juice and masala chai. We then went back to the hotel to shower and change. We'd booked a massage with kizhi which meant that after the massage they used a small bag with rice, oils and sand to pummel the body. It was finished off with 15 minutes in an individual steam chamber!

    We returned to the hotel and after a short time spent organising photos, we went for a walk back into town and then stopped at the place we'd been the previous day for a beer and club sandwich. Back at the hotel, after a quick shower, we meet up with the group again at 5.30 to walk the short distance to the place where we'd be seeing a martial arts demo. The performance lasted one hour and included the use of knives, sticks, some gymnastic routines and disarming someone with a knife using nothing more than a strip of cloth. The final part of the performance used burning sticks swirled at speed and then one of the performers jumping through progressively smaller hoops!

    After this we went to a restaurant for food and on the way back to the hotel some of us stopped for one drink. The massage had clearly made us very relaxed and sleepy as we were in bed and asleep just after 9.30!    Read more

  • TravelerIndia 2022-23
    1
    Day 16

    Periyar to the Kerala backwaters

    January 4, 2023 in India ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C

    We had an early start today and were on the minibus for 7am for a 4-5 hour drive to the Kerala backwaters. The first part of the journey took us through some beautiful scenery with views across the hills of the Western Ghats, although the road was very windy!

    As we descended the landscape changed from tea plantations, to pineapple and rubber farms and finally rice fields. As we started to approach the area where we were going, the houses on the side of the road grew grander and more well maintained.

    At just before midday we arrived at Alleppey, our boarding point for a trip on a houseboat. There were many of these boats moored up along the river bank, often with up to half a dozen tethered to each other. The one that we had hired was the fourth deep and we crossed through three other boats to get to it, navigating the small gap using a plank of wood!

    Our boat was very pretty with a downstairs sitting area, two bedrooms and another upstairs sitting area. We set off along with many other boats on the river and cruised along at a state pace watching the world go by and seeing the houses built along the river bank. After a short while the river emptied out into a large lake which we cruised through.

    Lunch was served which consisted of fat (rose) rice, chicken curry, pearl fish and a Dahl along with some poppadoms. For dessert there was fresh pineapple.

    We continued the journey and headed up another river. The backwaters are named because they are partly tidal and the water backs up on high tide.

    At 4pm we arrived at our final destination and the homestay which would be our accommodation for the evening. The house is a traditional Kerela style and had all rooms had a private bathroom.

    After checking in our host took us on a walk along the river bank and through the village, describing as we went how the land has originally been reclaimed and pointing out some of the plants that grow there, the rice fields and describing how life had been (with a very rigid caste system) and how it is now, including the community farm system where costs of large scale maintenance and machinery are shared.

    After about 90 minutes we climbed aboard a traditional open canoe, belonging to our hosts, which is operated by a man with a very long pole, a bit like the gondolas in Venice. He guided us back upstream, as the sun was setting, to our accommodation.

    We sat around for a while watching as the sky and river changed colour as the dusk settled in the setting was idyllic and peaceful with some occasional boats passing by and the view across the water to the opposite bank.

    We had a shower before meeting in the dining area for dinner. The food consisted of more traditional curries, chapattis and a delicious beetroot dish made with yoghurt and spices.

    After dinner we spent the rest of the evening with the group having a few drinks, playing a game and chatting. Tired, we turned in at 10.30.    Read more

  • TravelerIndia 2022-23
    111111111
    Day 17

    Kerela backwaters to Kochi

    January 5, 2023 in India ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    After a shower I went out onto the terrace to just sit and look at the river. Does were still and there's some lovely reflections of the houses and trees opposite. Breakfast was served sitting overlooking the river and was rice cakes with samba washed down with a coffee. Personally, I'm not convinced with having curry for breakfast, but the setting was just amazing whatever I thought of food.

    After breakfast we took a water taxi for an hour or so to Allapuzha where we caught a local bus back to Kochi. The local bus was manic and fortunately for us Eve had to take a taxi instead as she wasn't feeling well, although unfortunate for Eve! The bus was crammed with locals travelling the 2 hour journey and every time the bus stopped, which seemed frequently, the doors slammed open.

    We arrived safely in Kochi at just before 1pm and hauled rickshaws back to our original hotel where we checked in. Ed and I then took a walk to the TMK warehouse where another part of the art exhibition was taking place, this time with a Welsh connection!

    By now it was time for a beer and so we walked up to the Ginger hotel where we'd been before, for a drink and snack overlooking the water. From there we took a rickshaw back to Fort Cochin for a final wander around before returning to the hotel for a shower.

    At 7 we met up with our group, minus Eve who was still unwell, for a final meal at a restaurant in Fort Cochin. From there we went to a rooftop bar for a farewell drink before returning to the hotel by 10.30 to get packed ready for our early start on Friday for the second part of our Indian trip!    Read more

  • TravelerIndia 2022-23
    11
    Day 18

    Kochi to Tadoba national park

    January 6, 2023 in India ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

    The alarm woke us at 5am, before even the Muezzin had started his call to prayer and we met up with Richard and Julie to share a taxi to the airport. The journey this time was quicker than on the way in as the roads were very quiet. We arrived at the airport at 6.30 and checked in for our two flights, first to Bangalore and then onward to Nagpur.

    The first flight was late but it didn't really matter as we had plenty of time to connect in Bangalore. When we arrived at Nagpur our driver to take us to our accommodation was waiting for us. For the next three nights we're staying at the Waghoba eco lodge which was a two and a half hour journey from Nagpur.

    https://www.waghobaecolodge.com//

    The first half of the journey was on well made roads which were quite quiet and then we turned on to some narrower roads where there were lots of animals being moved including cows and goats.

    The final part of the journey was even more bumpy but soon the accommodation came into view. On first site from afar I have to say that I was a little bit disappointed. However, on arrival I was really pleasantly surprised!. The lodge was only built a couple of years ago and so far exceeds expectations. A room has a very tall ceiling with large picture windows looking out onto the wilderness and there's a separate WC and shower area.

    After a lovely shower we headed to the bar and had a drink on the balcony overlooking the wilderness. At 7.30 we moved inside to watch a tiger documentary during which canapes we're served. Next it was time for dinner...a three course Indian meal. The chef came out and explained that all of the food, including the spices, is made on site by him and his team. Washed down with a glass of Indian red wine. We headed for our room just after 10 as we knew that the next day would be an early start for a morning safari! 🐯    Read more

  • TravelerIndia 2022-23
    1
    Day 19

    Tadoba Andhari national park

    January 7, 2023 in India ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    We had a very early start with an alarm call at 5.15am! By 5:45, we were having a coffee in the reception area and met up with our naturalist guide for the day. The little Jeep arrived at 6:00 a.m. and we set off for the park.

    Our lodge is situated just outside the buffer zone of the park and so it took us about 15 minutes to drive to the entrance through the buffer zone. The buffer zone has people living in it, whereas the central park doesn't have any people who live there now as they've all been moved over the years into the buffer zone.

    It was still dark when we entered the park at 6:30 a.m. and almost immediately our guide spotted some fresh pug marks in the dirt track that we were driving on. Thankfully, we had blankets provided by the lodge as the sun didn't really get above the trees until after 9:00 a.m. and so it was chilly until then.

    We spent the next 3 1/2 hours trying to track or find a tiger and in doing so we saw a whole range of flora and fauna including:

    Nightjar
    Jungle fowl
    Samba
    Peacocks
    Rufus pie tail bird
    Indian Gaur
    Spotted deer
    Monkeys
    Cattle egrets
    A ghost tree
    And crocodile skin tree.

    Sadly the closest we got to a tiger was spending about 15 minutes listening to it eat a kill, and hearing the crunching bones.

    At around 10:00 a.m. we write back at an inner gate and stopped to have some breakfast consisting of boiled egg some homemade pastries,a type of Indian pancake and coffee for me. It was now time to head back to the accommodation as the park closes over the lunchtime period.

    When we arrived back the staff were waiting with a warm towel and a lemongrass tea served in a goblet which was just what we needed. We had a couple of hours to kill before our afternoon safari and so we came back to the room and had a fresh coffee sitting on the veranda.

    All freshened up We headed for our lunch which was a regional thali dish, and a beer to wash it down with.

    At 1:30 p.m. We met up with our guide again and went off Tiger hunting to the same region. Once again the tiger proved elusive but at least by now it was warm and sunny. We spotted some similar animals to the morning including some more samba deer And we also were shown the axle tree and the tamarind tree. We also spotted some mugger crocodiles basking in the sun by the lake.

    By the time we left the park at around 5:45 it was getting chilly again and we spent the ride home wrapped in a blanket. Once again, when we arrived back the staff were waiting with a hot towel and a warm drink.

    After a shower and change we had a sundowner beer whilst watching a documentary about Tadoba national park and then it was time for dinner. By 9.30 we were shattered and headed for an early night in readiness for another early start.    Read more

  • TravelerIndia 2022-23
    11
    Day 20

    Tadoba Andhari national park

    January 8, 2023 in India ⋅ ☀️ 9 °C

    Another early start with a 5.30am alarm call.

    After coffee or masala tea in reception, we then climb the board our jeep for the drive to the park gates. It was definitely colder this morning and so in addition to the blanket I was glad that I put an extra layer on.

    We spent the morning drive in the park seeing if we could spot the elusive tiger. We started off with a stop near a water hole where we heard a tiger in the undergrowth roaring. However, that was about as close as we got to a tiger and despite seeing other animals including deer, jungle owlets, langur monkey, blackwinged kite and a spotted owlet we left the park disappointed.

    We're right back at the lodge at about 11:00 a.m. and showered and sat on the veranda having a coffee. At around 12:30 we went for a drink and as we were having a beer, the manager came across and said that there was an opportunity to have an extra Safari in the afternoon if we wanted to. It didn't really take much thinking about to get another chance to spot tigers and so we agreed.

    So we had a quick lunch and then met our guide again who drove us in a pickup this time to a different gate where we met a jungle driver and jungle guide. We spent the afternoon in the same part of the park and returned to the place we'd be in the day before where we heard a tiger eating its kill. There must have been about 20 other jeeps there as the tiger could be seen in the undergrowth. Sadly though we think that the noise of some of the other tourists disturbed it and it wandered off.

    It's time to return to the gate and so disappointedly, we commence the drive back. Just as we were approaching the inner gate, we saw a works vehicle up ahead who motioned to us to come quickly and our driver sped up. There in a fire break around 100 m away was a young juvenile tiger marking it's territory. We only had a couple of minutes before she wandered off into the undergrowth but we agreed the extra Safari had been worthwhile.

    We kept our eyes peeled on the way back but didn't see anything else. Our guide drove us the 45 minutes back to the lodge and we were greeted with warm towels and more lemongrass tea.

    After a quick shower we headed to the bar at 7.30 for another nature documentary before having dinner in the restaurant. Another early night, tired but happy with the sights today!    Read more

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