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- Dag 1
- tisdag 20 december 2022 12:09
- ⛅ 9 °C
- Höjd över havet: 72 ft
EnglandHeathrow Terminal 551°28’12” N 0°29’18” W
Travel day. Home to Kochi

I'm including this day only because it bookends the whole trip itself but nothing very exciting happened.
We left home at 9am with a taxi to Stroud railway station for the train to Paddington and then the Heathrow express to the airport. We checked in and went through to the lounge. There was a short delay to our boarding and we eventually left just after 2:30 p.m..
I had a couple of gin zings as an aperitif and then what turned out to be quite a nice meal. The flight took around 9 1/2 hours and we landed on time just after 5:30 a.m. in the morning in Chennai.
We didn't have much time and after immigration collected our bags and checked in at the domestic terminal for our short flight to Kochi. Pretty impressed with the efficiency of the airline itself and less than an hour after taking off we were landing at our destination.
Our bags came through quickly and we left the airport and booked a taxi to our hotel. The driving in India wasn't as bad as I remember it, although it wasn't like anything you'd see in the UK and the trip itself took about 90 minutes. Fortunately we were able to check in to our hotel after a short wait despite it being only 11: 30am and after that we settle down to try and get some sleep.Läs mer
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- Dag 2
- onsdag 21 december 2022 17:55
- ⛅ 28 °C
- Höjd över havet: 39 ft
IndienRāmanturuttu9°58’2” N 76°15’8” E
Kochi

Having had a couple of hours sleep and a shower. We felt refreshed enough to head out into the town for a wander. The weather was warm and the sights and sounds (and smells) of India came flooding back.
We're staying at the hotel Fragrant Nature (https://www.fragrantnature.com/mobile/kochi.html) which is right at the North of the island and is a bit of luxury before or tour starts.
We walked from the hotel and through the streets around it heading for the coast. The roads are all quite narrow and bustling with auto rickshaws bikes, motorcycles, cars, people, goats and other animals. Our aim was to walk to the place where the Chinese fishing nets are and this was about 15 minutes walk away. But we had to walk along a canal which is really rather smelly and then down some side streets before we ended up on the coast and saw the fishing nets.
Quite a few locals said hello and one pair were even keen to have a selfie with us.
Having seen the fishing nets and walked along the shore for a bit, we headed back through the town and to our hotel. Now it was around 4:00 p.m. and definitely time for a refreshing beer on the rooftop.
We returned to the room and whilst Ed had a rest, I went back up to the rooftop for a swim in the pool. It was lovely to be able to swim whilst overlooking the rooftops and onto the water with the sun setting.
After a quick shower and a phone call where I spoke to the group leader for our upcoming tour who suggested some things we could do before the tour starts on Friday, we went downstairs for a drink and some food. Full and tired we headed back to the room for an early night.Läs mer
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- Dag 3
- torsdag 22 december 2022 18:00
- ⛅ 28 °C
- Höjd över havet: 33 ft
IndienChinese Fishing Nets9°58’24” N 76°14’36” E
Kochi

Despite being woken up before dawn by the Muezzin calling people to prayer I slept well and late!
After breakfast in the hotel..a mixed bag(!), we headed out to explore. We walked back to the coast near Fort Kochi, across the very smelly canal, and through the residential areas to the ferry landing. We bought a ticket for the ferry to take us across the busy straight to Vypin. The ferry was relatively modern but very chaotic but for 3 rupees (3p) we were about to travel with other pedestrians, mopeds, cars and lorries across the water. The journey itself took about 10 minutes!
Once in the other side we disembarked and walked along the coast past some more fishermen using elaborate nets. This time we saw them in operation and could see that they were counterweighted with rocks held on with rope.
We reached as far as we could go and do turned around and headed back to the ferry for the return trip.
Once on the other side it was almost 12 and so with the sun almost past the yardarm we agreed that it was time for a beer in a nearby bar.
Refreshed we negotiated an auto rickshaw ride to Matta cherry palace, an old Dutch palace with impressive murals. Having spent some time looking around it was by now very warm and so we wandered through the Jewish area (with lots of persistent shop keepers) before finding another sanctuary of a bar by the water for some refreshments.
Sated, we did a bit more sightseeing in the Jewish area, including seeing the outside of the oldest synagogue in the commonwealth although we didn't go in. After this we decided that it was time to head back for a rest so we hailed an auto rickshaw to take us back to the hotel.
After a break we had a beer in the hotel and a snack... Some spiced chicken. Later, we walked back to the port area for another drink and some food. This time we ate at the Brunton Boatyard, a smart hotel near the water. The good tasted good, although it was a little bony (!) And we also had a lovely bottle of Indian red wine, at least it was lovely once it has warmed up from fridge temperature.
By now it was almost 10pm and so we tried to hail an auto rickshaw, without success. So we ended up walking the mile or so back to our hotel... Through residential alleyways... Despite the darkness, it didn't feel at all unsafe (unless you count having to continually avoid mopeds weaving through the narrow alleyways.
Back at the hotel, it was definitely time to call it a day.... Tomorrow we meet our fellow travellers on the tour!Läs mer
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- Dag 4
- fredag 23 december 2022 22:02
- ⛅ 25 °C
- Höjd över havet: 33 ft
IndienChinese Fishing Nets9°58’0” N 76°14’36” E
Kochi

Another late start: think I'm catching up with missed sleep. After breakfast we packed and checked out, although we left our bags in the hotel while we went to explore.
We walked back towards the fort area and we're looking for the biennial arts festival that was opening today. It was based in the Aspinwall building and we timed our arrival for 11:00 a.m.. After a shortish queue we purchased our tickets and headed on in.
It's fair to say that I probably don't appreciate art that much, but there were some interesting exhibits and the setting was what made it special. In typical Indian style the exhibition was late opening by a few days and yet when we went in, the things were not finished and there was still work going on! Nevertheless, it was good to see. There were also some great views out over the bay from the back of the building.
After having our fill we decided to take a break and had a beer and a snack. We then walked back to our hotel and collected our bags before getting an auto rickshaw to the hotel, Hotel Abad, (https://www.abadhotels.com/m/fort-chullicakal-k…) where we would be starting our tour about 3km South.
We checked in and then had another wander back up to the hotel Ginger where we'd had a drink the previous day. By now it was time to get an auto rickshaw back to the hotel for a shower before the welcome meeting at 6!
After meeting 5 of the other 6 travellers on our tour, asking with the tour leader, Pooja, most of us went out for a meal. The journey was made in two tuk-tuks and was back up near the Chinese fishing nets. Not a cheap meal by Indian standards but the food was excellent and I ended up with a seafood platter.
It was then a tuk-tuk ride back to our hotel to settle in for the night .. An earlier start awaits tomorrow!Läs mer
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- Dag 5
- lördag 24 december 2022 10:52
- ⛅ 29 °C
- Höjd över havet: 43 ft
IndienChinese Fishing Nets9°57’54” N 76°14’36” E
Kochi (Christmas Eve!)

There is something slightly incongruous about being somewhere with Christmas trees (artificial), Christmas lights and 30 degrees heat. Can't work out yet whether it's a good thing it not although I'm definitely enjoying the break.
We had an earlier start today with breakfast at 8 and then a guided tour which started at 9am. We went by tuk-tuk to the Dutch palace where we walked around the upper floor (yes we'd been here before) and had an explanation of some of the 300+ year old murals on the wall.
Next we walked along the Jewish shopping street to the oldest synagogue in the Commonwealth. We couldn't go on because it's Saturday.
Walking back down the shopping street we then had tuk-tuks to the Fort Cochin area and walked around seeing the old Catholic church and also the oldest church in Kerala, originally built in the 16th century. The Catholic church was decked out in Christmas lights (which we saw later all lit up). The oldest church, At Francis, used to be the burial place of the Portuguese explorer, Vasco de Gama. (his body was moved soon after back to Lisbon for re-burial) Finally, for the walking tour, we went back to the Chinese fishing nets.
Tour complete, we all headed to a local coffee shop where I had a fish burger and pineapple Lassi. It was now early afternoon and the group went their separate ways with Ed and me going for a refreshing beer! After a couple of drinks we caught an auto rickshaw back to her hotel for a shower and change grit the evenings activities.
We met the group, including our final member, at 5.15 for a quick summary of tomorrow (Christmas day) before getting yet another tuk-tuk to a Kathacali performance. When we arrived the actors were having their make-up done on stage. Once complete the narrator gave an explanation of what we would see and the fact that the acting would all be by gesture and facial expression.
The performance was impressive (if not a little too long) with two drummers and a narrator who sang! The whole thing took about 1.5 hours!
From here we walked to a restaurant for dinner. (Kerala roast chicken for me) before a ride back home to the hotel for 10 pm. (Don't think Father Christmas is coming here, but you never know!) 😉🎅🌲Läs mer
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- Dag 6
- söndag 25 december 2022 08:16
- ☁️ 17 °C
- Höjd över havet: 4 314 ft
IndienTiger Hill Reserved Forest11°20’1” N 76°48’45” E
Kochi to Coonar (Christmas day)

After a reasonable night's sleep we had breakfast at 7.30am and then had a trio of auto rickshaws for the 20 minute journey from our hotel to the station. Today our destination is Ooty, a hill town in the southern part of the Western Ghats - the mountain range that runs along the west coast of India from North to South.
On arriving at the station, Pooja located the right platform and then found the carriage that we were travelling in. The train itself must have been at least 20 carriages long and we were booked into second class a/c!
We boarded the train and found our seats with the train leaving on time at 9.10. the journey to our stop was scheduled to be about 3.5 hours and the train initially meandered it's way through the suburbs of Kochi, passing the airport after about 40 minutes. We made steady progress towards our destination, passing through a few towns and fields of rice, along with some palm trees, and eventually arrived at the station in Coimbatore at around 1.10pm. We'd now travelled Interstate to Tamilnadu. Here we meet up with a driver and boarded a minibus for the next stage of our trip to Ooty.
After a short while we stopped at a local restaurant for some food...Puri Masala (a potato curry) for our Christmas lunch, washed down with fruit juice and a filter coffee. Not bad for the equivalent of £2.50 each!
We boarded the minibus again to continue our journey. As with the train, the first part was getting out of the suburbs and from then on we drove through farmland. After about an hour, we reached the foothills and stopped for a quick comfort break and for some of the group to buy water bottles as plastic is supposed to be prohibited in the area that we are travelling to.
From here the road got narrower and we started to climb through forest landscapes. We continued on up and up, seeing rhesus macaques on the side of the road. The roads continued to climb on a very windy route with the temperature starting to drop.
Eventually, after an hour and a half, we arrived at Coonar and our accommodation, Tiger Hill Cottage. We're now at around 2,600m and high in the hills with tea plantations all around. The place we're staying is a guest house which we have to ourselves.
After checking in to our spacious, if not basic rooms, we had a walk through the tea plantation with the rest of our group. The mist lifted and we had a great panorama of the hillside and land beyond.
By now it was 6.30 and so after a quick change we met back up in the living area and sat down for a Christmas dinner... Indian style. The curries were finished off with an Indian style black forest gateuax.
After this we were planning on having a bonfire but because it was raining we ended up staying in and playing a game of yahtzee with the group. We spent the rest of the evening chatting before eventually turning in at just before midnight. Indian Christmas ✔️Läs mer
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- Dag 7
- måndag 26 december 2022 10:29
- ☁️ 18 °C
- Höjd över havet: 6 135 ft
IndienSim’s Park Number One Reserved Forest11°21’42” N 76°48’6” E
Tea, trains and Ooty

After breakfast at 8, which included pancakes, omelette, banana, papaya, watermelon juice and coffee we set off a day of sightseeing.
First to was a tea plantation. This area is in the Nilgiri hills and was identified during the colonial times as a good place for tea growing. Having seen the plants, viewed the processing factory and tasted a few varieties of tea, we got back in the bus to go to Conoor where we would be catching the train to Ooty.
Tickets purchased we waited for the train to arrive. This line is narrow gauge and the steepest in India and runs for 45km. We boarded the train when it arrived and set off at 12.35pm. the track climbs pretty much continuously, pushed by a powerful diesel engine. The views were incredible and we also passed through forestry areas.
We arrived at Ooty (nicknamed Snooty) just before 2pm and met up with our driver again to take us first for some lunch at a restaurant where I managed to spill half of my fruit lassi over me and then on to a biological garden in Ooty. We spent an hour or so wandering around and the rain stopped and the sun tried to come out. There were loads of locals in the gardens and it all felt very Indian, with some of the plants a bit rough around the edges and needing dead-heading.
At 4.30pm we met up again with our driver for the hour long drive back to our accommodation.
After time for a quick (and dribbly) shower we all met up again downstairs for dinner. Tonight this consisted of peppered chicken curry, dhal, chickpea curry, Gobi 65 (deep fried cauliflower in spices) and some Indian bread), washed down with some more local beer!
We spent a great evening then with the group playing games, listening to music and chatting over beers before turning in at about midnight.Läs mer
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- Dag 8
- tisdag 27 december 2022 13:23
- ⛅ 28 °C
- Höjd över havet: 2 979 ft
IndienMoguvinhalli11°41’42” N 76°38’6” E
Conoor to Bandipur National park

An earlier start this morning, with breakfast at 7.30 and bags needing to be packed ready to leave. In the end we left a little late and drove for about an hour before stopping for a toilet break in Ooty. The weather this morning was wet, misty and a little chilly.
After Ooty, we didn't about two hours winding our way down from the hills until we reached a town just before the entry to Mudulmai national park. This park is linked to our final destination of Bandipur national park. After a quick stop we continued for about an hour driving through the park. About half way we crossed the border into Karnataka state. We continued through the park spotting some Langur monkeys and spotted deer as we went. Eventually, just after 1pm we reached the edge of the park and our accommodation for the evening is located just the other side of the park edge.
We checked in to our lodge accommodation and then went for a buffet style lunch of curries, Dahl and chapattis, finished off with some ice cream.
At 3pm we met up to be taken to the start point for a safari about 10 minutes away. We climbed in to a large safari vehicle asking with an Indian family who are also staying at our accommodation.
During the almost 3 hour Safari we were lucky enough to spot quite a few different animals although sadly no tigers!
Spotted deer
Elephants
Langue monkeys
Rhesus macaque
Barking deer (heard)
Crested hawk eagle - catching and eating a lizard
Indian Gaur (bison)
Peacock
Leopard
Samba deer
Sloth bear
The safari vehicle dropped us off back at our accommodation just before 6.15 and we were served masala chai. Dinner was a buffet arrangement again after which we sat around outside chatting and having a beer before an early night at 10!Läs mer
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- Dag 9
- onsdag 28 december 2022 11:27
- ⛅ 25 °C
- Höjd över havet: 3 317 ft
IndienChāmundi12°16’24” N 76°40’18” E
Bandipur to Mysore

After breakfast we left our accommodation at 9am to travel to Mysore. The journey was on much less windy roads and dropped us further into the plain in the foothill.
We drove for about 90 minutes before arriving the outskirts of Mysore where we visited the Sri Chamundeshwari temple. This is an active temple you the god Vishnu and sits high on the hill above the city.
There were hundreds of other people at the temple and we queued for a while to get in. Unlike most temples, non-Hindus are allowed to go inside. After about 45 minute we eventually got to the front of the queue and had about 10 seconds in front of the statue before we were ushered on.
At around midday, we returned to the minibus for the 20 minute journey to our hotel, Sandesh the Prince, where we were able to check in.
After a chance to freshen up with a warm shower and some food, we met the group again at 2.45pm to visit the Mysore Palace. We walked for about 20 minutes before arriving at the palace and met up with a local guide. After removing our shoes (because of the floor tiles and not fit any religious reasons, we went inside. The guide was interesting and explained that the palace is the second just visited place in India, after the Taj Mahal and also that it was rebuilt in the early 20th century after a fire destroyed the old wooden palace. The architecture is a mix of Christian, Muslim and Hindu styles to reflect the fact that the Hindu King recognised all religions.
Much of the structure seemed to have been imported with iron columns from Scotland, ornate gates from Austria and bronze statues from England. Unfortunately, it appeared that half of the population of India was also visiting at the same time and it was very very busy and noisy, not helped by the guards visually blowing whistles. Definitely good to experience and see although it made it difficult to hear the guide!
At night, once a week, and all over the Christmas and New Year period the palace is it up with 97,000 bulbs. We only saw it from a distance but our guide who went out for the evening sent us a picture of what it looks like!
It was almost 6 by the time we returned to the hotel and we had a beer with the group before you've to freshen up. Most of the group then went out for food to a hotel with a rooftop restaurant. I went for a more western mean as a change from the three times a day curry that we've been having and we then had another early night.Läs mer
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- Dag 10
- torsdag 29 december 2022 09:25
- ⛅ 23 °C
- Höjd över havet: 2 146 ft
IndienSomnāthpur12°16’30” N 76°52’54” E
Mysore

We opted for an early start at 7.30am this morning to beat the crowds to visit a disused temple about 45 minute drive from Mysore. The drive took us through small towns and lots of countryside with paddy fields on both sides of the road. On arriving we had a marsala chai whilst we waited for the temple to open.
The Keshava temple at Somonathapura was built over 65 years in the 13th century and was beautifully ornate. The guide explained about the various carvings, made of soapstone and the reason why the temple is no longer used for pooja (worship) which is because it was damaged during attacks by Muslim invaders. When the images of the gods are damaged then worship can no longer be undertaken there. We spent about an hour looking around.
It was certainly worth the early start as by the time we left, hoards it school children were arriving! We boarded the minibus for the journey back to Mysore.
After arriving back at the hotel we had a shower and then packed our cases so that they could be moved to a day room that we'd be using until later. We took an auto rickshaw to a coffee shop about 15 minutes away where we had a great coffee and some food.
Next we took another auto rickshaw to the market area and meandered through the market looking at the various sections, including flowers, spices, perfumes, fruit and veg.
On leaving the market we took another auto rickshaw to St Philomena's church which is modelled on the cathedral in Cologne. It looked strange to see the architecture in an Indian setting! After taking some photos we grabbed one final rickshaw back to our hotel. By now it was around 2.30pm and so we went to the poolside for a beer!
At 4pm some of us had said that we'd do a yoga class and the teacher arrived poolside where we laid out some mats and were put through our paces. It was good but I think that I'll regret it in the morning! (I'm not sure that it helped having an audience!) After the class there was just time for a beer for refreshment before it was time to leave.
It first stop was at the home of a local family where we were served huge portions of biryani. The husband used to be a tour guide but had now started a business and also hosts Intrepid tours.
After eating, it was time to head to the station to catch it overnight train to Chennai. Despite it being 8.30, the station was bustling. We found our train, the Kavari express, and located our berths. The train left on time and we chatted for a while before deciding that it was time to get some sleep. (The train is due to arrive in Chennai at 6.45am and at the tube of writing, we're yet to meet our fellow travellers who will be sharing our part of the train!)Läs mer
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- Dag 11
- fredag 30 december 2022 19:55
- 🌙 25 °C
- Höjd över havet: 20 ft
IndienMahabalipuram12°37’12” N 80°11’54” E
Mysore to Mammalapurum

The train trundled through the countryside stopping at various stations and eventually at around 11:30 p.m. the other travellers in our area got on, just after I'd managed to fall asleep. They made a right racket sorting themselves out and as a result it was hard to get back to sleep. The air conditioning also seemed to have given me the sniffles.
After a relatively sleepless night, we arrived on time in Chennai at just after 7:00 a.m.. We negotiated the crowds and found the minibus that would take us straight to our next destination which is Mammalapuram, about 40 km south of Chennai. Fortunately we didn't get stuck in too much traffic in the city and by 8:30 we were at our hotel.
Unfortunately it wasn't possible to check in this early and so we had some breakfast at the hotel and then Ed and I went out for a wander. It's definitely far more humid where we are now on the east coast of India compared to where we've just come from and it also felt much hotter even though it was early.
After a relatively short stroll. We came back to the hotel and headed up to the pool area where some of the rest of the group were relaxing. I changed and had a swim and then we sat around chatting until just after midday when our rooms were finally ready and we were able to check in.
We had a couple of hours before meeting up to explore the town and temples and so a few of us went for a walk to get some food and something to drink.
At 3.30pm we returned to the hotel to meet our local guide to explore the sights of Mammalapuram. Our first stop, just behind the hotel, was Arjuna's Penance, a bas-relief. Essentially massive natural boulders, some of which have been carved into temples. The local tourists seemed to enjoy using the landscape as a play park, and some of the carvings were very intricate.
Next we took an auto rickshaw to see Pancha Pandava rathas, a series of carvings which represent the 5 chariots of the Pandavas which date back to the 7th century.
Finally we took the rickshaw back to the town to the Shore temple. It was only about 2km, but the traffic was very very busy and our driver weaved in and out to try and get through!
The Shore temple is, apparently, India's most photographed monument. It suits right on the shore and again is over 1,000 years old. Time and tide has taken its toll on the monument and the carvings have eroded from their former glory. Nevertheless, it was really to see how impressive it must have been in its prime.
There was a dance festival taking place near the temple but as it was now 6pm, we didn't linger and we headed back to the hotel for a shower before meeting for dinner with the group.
Dinner tonight was at a beach side restaurant overlooking the shore and, as expected, sea food was a major part of the menu. For novelty value, as much as anything else, Ed and I shared a Pomfret first which had been cooked in spices. It was really tasty!
After a final beer of the evening, at about 9.45pm we walked back to the hotel for another early night.Läs mer
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- Dag 12
- lördag 31 december 2022 16:56
- ⛅ 27 °C
- Höjd över havet: Havsnivå
IndienPuducherry11°55’60” N 79°50’12” E
Mammalapuram to Pondicherry (NYE)

Another day, another journey.
After breakfast at 7.30 we boarded another minibus for the 2 hour trip to Pondicherry, the French capital of India. It was under French rule for over 200 years, even while India was part of the British empire and only gained independence in 1954, seven years after India became an independent state. It's not part of one of the states and instead is ruled directly from Delhi.
Before we went into the centre of Pondicherry itself we stopped at an experimental settlement called Auroville, about 10 miles outside the city. The town was set up in the early 70's but an Indian man and French woman and is aimed at people who want to find their inner self and live to a core set of values. We were told that it is not a religion and that it is focussed on the individual. (When we went later to see the burial places of the two founders, I found this hard to understand as there were a number of individuals there who were clearly worshipping!). The town itself had a visitors centre and we walked along to see the large golf ball shaped building (a bit like a gold version of Epcot at Disneyworld) where there is a meditation room along with 12 other rooms around the edge. Once we had seen this we walked back and had food (cheesecake, samosa and ice cream) along with a banana lassi.
We got back on the minibus and within 30 minutes we had arrived at our hotel. We had a couple of hours to relax before a tour of Pondicherry French quarter so we tried to find a car for a beer as it was now 2pm, but failed!
At 3.30 we met up with the group again and had rickshaws to the French quarter for a tour with a local guide. She was very knowledgeable although I'm not sure how she expected us to remember the list of dates and facts that she reeled off. We visited the burial place of the founders of Auroville (rather strange) and then wandered around the old part of the city towards the waterfront. The French part of the city does look very different to other parts of India and the buildings were a definite reminder of ones in France.
Once at the beach front we walked along the promenade. The whole area was bustling and there were a number of parties planned for the evening! The loud music and crowds made it very difficult to hear the guide! The tour finished at just after 5pm and a number of us found a rooftop bar for a drink. (Given the early hour, it was a surprise that they had almost run out of beer)!
We got a rickshaw back to our hotel for a shower and change before meeting again to go back to the French quarter for dinner at just after 7. The food was mainly French inspired but the beers were cold! After eating we wandered shopping the shore taking in the atmosphere which was now very lively and it was hard to remember that most of the revellers would not have been drinking.
At 10.30 we tried to find rickshaws to take us back to the hotel and eventually managed to hail enough of them to get us back for 11.15. we went to the hotel bar (more warm beer, and Budweiser at that, and also no tonic water if you wanted gin!).
We celebrated the New Year as the only people in the bar and after about half an hour, with some of us having a little dance, the bar was closing and so we headed to bed!Läs mer
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- Dag 13
- söndag 1 januari 2023 16:55
- ⛅ 30 °C
- Höjd över havet: 472 ft
IndienMadurai9°55’18” N 78°6’42” E
Pondicherry to Madurai

Another year, another day travelling!
We met up with the group at just before 8 (hangover free!!) and boarded the minibus. First stop was a bakery for breakfast. The pain au chocolate was very tasty and the coffee was good too! We also picked up provisions for lunch as we would be on the train.
Back on the minibus we headed out of Pondicherry to Villapuram in order to catch the train to Madurai. The train was a little late and we ended up leaving the station at about 12pm for the 5 hour journey. The train goes all the way from Chennai to a temple town in Kerala and takes over 20 hours so we were in a sleeper carriage rather than the seats that we'd had on the first train. We spent the time eating some food that we'd bought at the bakery, dozing, reading and watching the world go by.
We arrived at Madurai at around 5pm and walked the short distance to our hotel. There was a cycle rickshaw arranged and we left immediately for a tour of the city. The men pedalling were ancient! Halfway through the tour we stopped and walked through the banana market.
After an hour or so, we arrived at the end and had some delicious street food and a coffee/marsala chai. We then went to a shop which sold all sorts of crafts and where you could have clothes made overnight! After a couple of the group had made some purchases we walked back to the hotel and had a chance to freshen up before going to the 7th floor rooftop restaurant for dinner and drinks! The chicken tikka kebabs were delicious! After dinner and some drinks it was time to head to bed!Läs mer
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- Dag 14
- måndag 2 januari 2023 08:03
- ⛅ 22 °C
- Höjd över havet: 440 ft
IndienMinākshi Kovil9°55’12” N 78°7’6” E
Madurai to Periyar

We were up early for a tour of the Sri Meenakshi Amman temple. Before meeting up with the group we walked a short distance to have a marsala chai as we were skipping breakfast. At 7.45 we met up and walked about 10 minutes to the temple where we met a local guide. We usual, we removed our shoes but also had to leave electronic devices and cameras outside the temple.
We spent about 45 minutesc waking around the temple although we could not go into the shrines. The stone built temple with 4 main towers and a number of smaller ones, all intricately decorated and painted, was constructed between the 12th and 18th centuries. Inside there were brightly coloured ceilings and also a large central quadrangle almost completely taken up by a pond and fountain. We heard that the temple is usually completely renovated every 12 years.
We wandered back to our hotel and had a chance to pack and shower before leaving in a minibus to drive to our next stop, Periyar tiger reserve!
About two hours into the four hour journey we stopped for some food at a local bakery. After another 2 hours we arrived in Thekkady, back in Kerala state, our home for the next two days. Before getting to the hotel we stopped at a soccer plantation and saw some of the spices growing and how they process them. There was the obligatory shop at the end where I did pick up a few packets!
On to the hotel and we arrived just after 4. The hotel Abadi is a series of lodges with large, albeit dark, rooms in a typical Kerala style. We checked in and then a few of us went to a hotel down the road for a beer before meeting up with the rest of the group for dinner at Grandma's restaurant. We're a bit higher here and so it started to get a bit chilly. By the time we had food and wandered back it was time for bed!Läs mer
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- Dag 15
- tisdag 3 januari 2023 09:22
- ☀️ 21 °C
- Höjd över havet: 2 854 ft
IndienThekkady9°36’0” N 77°10’0” E
Periyar

Early start this morning at 7am to do a jungle walk in the tiger reserve. It was a beautiful bright morning and we spent 2 hours walking though the jungle with a forest guide. We were given protective socks against leeches! We didn't see any tigers but we did see all of the animals below!
White cheeked barbitt
Family of Indian Gaur
Wild chickens
Minor bird
Scarlet minuet bird
Orange minute bird
Hoopy bird - very rare
Racket trail drongo bird
Serpent eagle
Treepie
Black monkey
Brahamy kite
Giant malibar squirrel
Macaque
After the walk finished we went into the town and had breakfast of omelette, toast, watermelon juice and masala chai. We then went back to the hotel to shower and change. We'd booked a massage with kizhi which meant that after the massage they used a small bag with rice, oils and sand to pummel the body. It was finished off with 15 minutes in an individual steam chamber!
We returned to the hotel and after a short time spent organising photos, we went for a walk back into town and then stopped at the place we'd been the previous day for a beer and club sandwich. Back at the hotel, after a quick shower, we meet up with the group again at 5.30 to walk the short distance to the place where we'd be seeing a martial arts demo. The performance lasted one hour and included the use of knives, sticks, some gymnastic routines and disarming someone with a knife using nothing more than a strip of cloth. The final part of the performance used burning sticks swirled at speed and then one of the performers jumping through progressively smaller hoops!
After this we went to a restaurant for food and on the way back to the hotel some of us stopped for one drink. The massage had clearly made us very relaxed and sleepy as we were in bed and asleep just after 9.30!Läs mer
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- Dag 16
- onsdag 4 januari 2023 07:31
- ☀️ 17 °C
- Höjd över havet: 3 291 ft
IndienKamadigudi Malai9°34’14” N 77°3’48” E
Periyar to the Kerala backwaters

We had an early start today and were on the minibus for 7am for a 4-5 hour drive to the Kerala backwaters. The first part of the journey took us through some beautiful scenery with views across the hills of the Western Ghats, although the road was very windy!
As we descended the landscape changed from tea plantations, to pineapple and rubber farms and finally rice fields. As we started to approach the area where we were going, the houses on the side of the road grew grander and more well maintained.
At just before midday we arrived at Alleppey, our boarding point for a trip on a houseboat. There were many of these boats moored up along the river bank, often with up to half a dozen tethered to each other. The one that we had hired was the fourth deep and we crossed through three other boats to get to it, navigating the small gap using a plank of wood!
Our boat was very pretty with a downstairs sitting area, two bedrooms and another upstairs sitting area. We set off along with many other boats on the river and cruised along at a state pace watching the world go by and seeing the houses built along the river bank. After a short while the river emptied out into a large lake which we cruised through.
Lunch was served which consisted of fat (rose) rice, chicken curry, pearl fish and a Dahl along with some poppadoms. For dessert there was fresh pineapple.
We continued the journey and headed up another river. The backwaters are named because they are partly tidal and the water backs up on high tide.
At 4pm we arrived at our final destination and the homestay which would be our accommodation for the evening. The house is a traditional Kerela style and had all rooms had a private bathroom.
After checking in our host took us on a walk along the river bank and through the village, describing as we went how the land has originally been reclaimed and pointing out some of the plants that grow there, the rice fields and describing how life had been (with a very rigid caste system) and how it is now, including the community farm system where costs of large scale maintenance and machinery are shared.
After about 90 minutes we climbed aboard a traditional open canoe, belonging to our hosts, which is operated by a man with a very long pole, a bit like the gondolas in Venice. He guided us back upstream, as the sun was setting, to our accommodation.
We sat around for a while watching as the sky and river changed colour as the dusk settled in the setting was idyllic and peaceful with some occasional boats passing by and the view across the water to the opposite bank.
We had a shower before meeting in the dining area for dinner. The food consisted of more traditional curries, chapattis and a delicious beetroot dish made with yoghurt and spices.
After dinner we spent the rest of the evening with the group having a few drinks, playing a game and chatting. Tired, we turned in at 10.30.Läs mer
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- Dag 17
- torsdag 5 januari 2023 07:54
- ☀️ 23 °C
- Höjd över havet: 33 ft
IndienVaisampākkal9°23’54” N 76°23’12” E
Kerela backwaters to Kochi

After a shower I went out onto the terrace to just sit and look at the river. Does were still and there's some lovely reflections of the houses and trees opposite. Breakfast was served sitting overlooking the river and was rice cakes with samba washed down with a coffee. Personally, I'm not convinced with having curry for breakfast, but the setting was just amazing whatever I thought of food.
After breakfast we took a water taxi for an hour or so to Allapuzha where we caught a local bus back to Kochi. The local bus was manic and fortunately for us Eve had to take a taxi instead as she wasn't feeling well, although unfortunate for Eve! The bus was crammed with locals travelling the 2 hour journey and every time the bus stopped, which seemed frequently, the doors slammed open.
We arrived safely in Kochi at just before 1pm and hauled rickshaws back to our original hotel where we checked in. Ed and I then took a walk to the TMK warehouse where another part of the art exhibition was taking place, this time with a Welsh connection!
By now it was time for a beer and so we walked up to the Ginger hotel where we'd been before, for a drink and snack overlooking the water. From there we took a rickshaw back to Fort Cochin for a final wander around before returning to the hotel for a shower.
At 7 we met up with our group, minus Eve who was still unwell, for a final meal at a restaurant in Fort Cochin. From there we went to a rooftop bar for a farewell drink before returning to the hotel by 10.30 to get packed ready for our early start on Friday for the second part of our Indian trip!Läs mer
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- Dag 18
- fredag 6 januari 2023 08:53
- ☀️ 26 °C
- Höjd över havet: 36 ft
IndienCochin International Airport10°9’17” N 76°23’28” E
Kochi to Tadoba national park

The alarm woke us at 5am, before even the Muezzin had started his call to prayer and we met up with Richard and Julie to share a taxi to the airport. The journey this time was quicker than on the way in as the roads were very quiet. We arrived at the airport at 6.30 and checked in for our two flights, first to Bangalore and then onward to Nagpur.
The first flight was late but it didn't really matter as we had plenty of time to connect in Bangalore. When we arrived at Nagpur our driver to take us to our accommodation was waiting for us. For the next three nights we're staying at the Waghoba eco lodge which was a two and a half hour journey from Nagpur.
https://www.waghobaecolodge.com//
The first half of the journey was on well made roads which were quite quiet and then we turned on to some narrower roads where there were lots of animals being moved including cows and goats.
The final part of the journey was even more bumpy but soon the accommodation came into view. On first site from afar I have to say that I was a little bit disappointed. However, on arrival I was really pleasantly surprised!. The lodge was only built a couple of years ago and so far exceeds expectations. A room has a very tall ceiling with large picture windows looking out onto the wilderness and there's a separate WC and shower area.
After a lovely shower we headed to the bar and had a drink on the balcony overlooking the wilderness. At 7.30 we moved inside to watch a tiger documentary during which canapes we're served. Next it was time for dinner...a three course Indian meal. The chef came out and explained that all of the food, including the spices, is made on site by him and his team. Washed down with a glass of Indian red wine. We headed for our room just after 10 as we knew that the next day would be an early start for a morning safari! 🐯Läs mer
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- Dag 19
- lördag 7 januari 2023 11:51
- ☀️ 23 °C
- Höjd över havet: 735 ft
IndienWadāla Tukm20°17’38” N 79°15’29” E
Tadoba Andhari national park

We had a very early start with an alarm call at 5.15am! By 5:45, we were having a coffee in the reception area and met up with our naturalist guide for the day. The little Jeep arrived at 6:00 a.m. and we set off for the park.
Our lodge is situated just outside the buffer zone of the park and so it took us about 15 minutes to drive to the entrance through the buffer zone. The buffer zone has people living in it, whereas the central park doesn't have any people who live there now as they've all been moved over the years into the buffer zone.
It was still dark when we entered the park at 6:30 a.m. and almost immediately our guide spotted some fresh pug marks in the dirt track that we were driving on. Thankfully, we had blankets provided by the lodge as the sun didn't really get above the trees until after 9:00 a.m. and so it was chilly until then.
We spent the next 3 1/2 hours trying to track or find a tiger and in doing so we saw a whole range of flora and fauna including:
Nightjar
Jungle fowl
Samba
Peacocks
Rufus pie tail bird
Indian Gaur
Spotted deer
Monkeys
Cattle egrets
A ghost tree
And crocodile skin tree.
Sadly the closest we got to a tiger was spending about 15 minutes listening to it eat a kill, and hearing the crunching bones.
At around 10:00 a.m. we write back at an inner gate and stopped to have some breakfast consisting of boiled egg some homemade pastries,a type of Indian pancake and coffee for me. It was now time to head back to the accommodation as the park closes over the lunchtime period.
When we arrived back the staff were waiting with a warm towel and a lemongrass tea served in a goblet which was just what we needed. We had a couple of hours to kill before our afternoon safari and so we came back to the room and had a fresh coffee sitting on the veranda.
All freshened up We headed for our lunch which was a regional thali dish, and a beer to wash it down with.
At 1:30 p.m. We met up with our guide again and went off Tiger hunting to the same region. Once again the tiger proved elusive but at least by now it was warm and sunny. We spotted some similar animals to the morning including some more samba deer And we also were shown the axle tree and the tamarind tree. We also spotted some mugger crocodiles basking in the sun by the lake.
By the time we left the park at around 5:45 it was getting chilly again and we spent the ride home wrapped in a blanket. Once again, when we arrived back the staff were waiting with a hot towel and a warm drink.
After a shower and change we had a sundowner beer whilst watching a documentary about Tadoba national park and then it was time for dinner. By 9.30 we were shattered and headed for an early night in readiness for another early start.Läs mer
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- Dag 20
- söndag 8 januari 2023 07:00
- ☀️ 9 °C
- Höjd över havet: 735 ft
IndienWadāla Tukm20°17’38” N 79°15’29” E
Tadoba Andhari national park

Another early start with a 5.30am alarm call.
After coffee or masala tea in reception, we then climb the board our jeep for the drive to the park gates. It was definitely colder this morning and so in addition to the blanket I was glad that I put an extra layer on.
We spent the morning drive in the park seeing if we could spot the elusive tiger. We started off with a stop near a water hole where we heard a tiger in the undergrowth roaring. However, that was about as close as we got to a tiger and despite seeing other animals including deer, jungle owlets, langur monkey, blackwinged kite and a spotted owlet we left the park disappointed.
We're right back at the lodge at about 11:00 a.m. and showered and sat on the veranda having a coffee. At around 12:30 we went for a drink and as we were having a beer, the manager came across and said that there was an opportunity to have an extra Safari in the afternoon if we wanted to. It didn't really take much thinking about to get another chance to spot tigers and so we agreed.
So we had a quick lunch and then met our guide again who drove us in a pickup this time to a different gate where we met a jungle driver and jungle guide. We spent the afternoon in the same part of the park and returned to the place we'd be in the day before where we heard a tiger eating its kill. There must have been about 20 other jeeps there as the tiger could be seen in the undergrowth. Sadly though we think that the noise of some of the other tourists disturbed it and it wandered off.
It's time to return to the gate and so disappointedly, we commence the drive back. Just as we were approaching the inner gate, we saw a works vehicle up ahead who motioned to us to come quickly and our driver sped up. There in a fire break around 100 m away was a young juvenile tiger marking it's territory. We only had a couple of minutes before she wandered off into the undergrowth but we agreed the extra Safari had been worthwhile.
We kept our eyes peeled on the way back but didn't see anything else. Our guide drove us the 45 minutes back to the lodge and we were greeted with warm towels and more lemongrass tea.
After a quick shower we headed to the bar at 7.30 for another nature documentary before having dinner in the restaurant. Another early night, tired but happy with the sights today!Läs mer
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- Dag 21
- måndag 9 januari 2023 08:41
- ☀️ 15 °C
- Höjd över havet: 1 870 ft
IndienTevni21°52’60” N 79°22’42” E
Tadoba Andhari NP to Pench NP

A leisurely start this morning with breakfast at 8 having already packed.
The journey was a distance of 180 miles and was due to take around 5 hours. We retraced our steps from Waghoba to Nagpur and then circuited the city and continued to head north. The landscape started to charge and we began climbing the hills with Pench national park on our left. After about 30 minutes of a windy dual carriageway we turned off the road for a final 30 minutes on more local roads and arrived at the lodge at around 1.30pm.
The lodge is set into 40 acres of land and the accommodation is well spread out and discretely built. We have a tree house with a lovely balcony in the forest canopy. The whole thing moves slightly when you move around but it's got all mod cons including air conditioning (which we don't need) and hot water!
There was nothing planned for the afternoon and so we spent it relaxing in the bar area and eating.... first lunch and then dinner after watching a BBC documentary filmed in Pench. We headed back to the room at about 10 to find the staff had been in again and left the heater on (it's much cooler here at night) and hot water bottles in the bed! Another early start tomorrow.Läs mer
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- Dag 22
- tisdag 10 januari 2023 12:28
- ☀️ 26 °C
- Höjd över havet: 1 890 ft
IndienTevni21°53’5” N 79°22’47” E
Pench national park

After a 5.30am alarm call be met our guide, Shiv, at reception at 6am for coffee before leaving to drive the 20 minutes to the park gate. It was still dark, although the almost full moon gave lots of light, and very very cold. Fortunately here, along with blankets, they also gave us hot water bottles for the journey!
The park opens at 6.45am and we were at the gate ready to go in at that time.
We drove into the park and were soon on the trail of a tiger. First we saw some fresh pug marks and then Shiv also spotted a fresh scent mark on a tree that the tiger had left. We got our hopes up and after some tooing and froing we spotted a female tiger crossing the road. We kept on her trail and managed to spot her again some time later and watch her for about 5 minutes as she walked through the undergrowth and then crossed another track.
Time flies when you're having fun and so we then headed to a spot for breakfast where we could get off the vehicle. The breakfast was spread out on a table that folded out from the bonnet and was delicious. Thankfully it had now started to warm up!
During the drive we also saw xxxxxxx.
After breakfast we drove the long road back to the park gate and then back to the hotel.
We went back to her room and had a coffee on the balcony before heading over to the restaurant at 1:00 p.m. for lunch which has usual was an Indian selection of various dishes including chicken, salad, dahl, etc
Our afternoon safari started at 2:30 and we drove the 20 minutes to the gate and spent the afternoon trying to find the elusive, tigers and leopards sadly without success on this occasion. However, we did see a number of new birds, a crocodile and a golden jackal.
It was getting dark when we arrived back at the lodge and after a coffee we headed to the room to get clean and changed ready for dinner.
We watched the last part of the documentary on the tigers of Pench national park before dinner tonight and then headed for dinner, inside tonight thankfully! After another massive meal we headed back to the room and promptly fell asleep!Läs mer
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- Dag 23
- onsdag 11 januari 2023 16:44
- ☀️ 26 °C
- Höjd över havet: 2 060 ft
IndienPiparia22°2’24” N 79°15’24” E
Pench national park, day 2

Another 5.30 am alarm call and by 6.15 we were wrapped in layers of clothes and a blanket along with a hot water bottle for the ride to the park gates. Sitting high in an open vehicle may be good for wildlife spotting but it doesn't half make it cold when driving!
After showing our passports as usual at the park gates we were one of the first vehicles into the park when it opened at 6.45am. we spent the next few hours tracking tigers and managed to see some fresh pug marks and hear alarm calls but this time were unsuccessful in spotting any of the elusive creatures! However we did see an Indian Gaur, plenty of deer and monkeys and also spent a lovely time at a lakeside which has some beautiful views and loads of birds. The water was so still and the reflections were really pretty.
At around 9am we stopped for breakfast before resuming it quest but at 11 we had to call it a day and we headed back out of the park and back to our accommodation.
After a coffee on the balcony, we showered and changed, packing up our dusty safari gear, and then went to lunch. We spent the afternoon relaxing and starting to relook at some of our holiday pictures. We also had a walk around the paths within the grounds, mindful of the fact that last November a female tiger had spent three days within the grounds devouring a kill that she had made.
We watched the sunset from the balcony above the restaurant and then after watching another tiger documentary on the library area we went downstairs for dinner, outside but warmed by an open fire pit.
Another early night after all of the excitement of the day and being full of food!Läs mer
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- Dag 24
- torsdag 12 januari 2023 07:59
- ☀️ 13 °C
- Höjd över havet: 1 880 ft
IndienTevni21°53’6” N 79°22’48” E
Pench to Chennai

A day of travelling today as we start our long journey home. After breakfast we were picked up for the 3 hour drive to Nagpur airport. No issues en route and we were at the airport in good time for our 3pm flight to Hyderabad. From there we took another flight to Chennai and were met for a 30 minute taxi transfer to the final hotel of our trip.Läs mer
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- Dag 25
- fredag 13 januari 2023 10:54
- ⛅ 27 °C
- Höjd över havet: 102 ft
IndienRaja Annamalaipuram13°1’46” N 80°14’60” E
Chennai to home

Our earliest start yet with a 4.30 alarm call to get us up and moving to the airport. The flight to London was on time and after landing at 1pm we caught the train back to Stroud and ass taxi back home!Läs mer
Resenärlook forward to being part of the adventure 🧑🎄🎉💖