Off to Spain to meet Michaela for the last leg of the caminho Português! Les mer
  • Paul H

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    3. mai 2024, England ⋅ ☁️ 9 °C

    Off to a crazy early start @ 2:30am (was it worth sleeping?) and off I go to Spain to meet Michaela to start the week long walk!

    Weird to think that I’ll be walking for a week straight, and I’m not sure how it’ll go, but I know I’ll be with cool and awesome company and beautiful scenery (and companion!).

    Very much looking forward to the adventure!
    Les mer

  • The night before: Vigo

    3. mai 2024, Spania ⋅ 🌧 15 °C

    Well, I’m finally here! The Vueling flight was brilliant (well done IAG!) and La Coruña airport tiny by LGW or LHR standards, but means you can speed through and get to see your loved ones quicker!

    We are now ready to start the last 100km of the Camino Português! Michaela confidently tells me that as long as you do the last 100km, it counts (and you get a certificate), and I’ll take that!

    Vigo itself has turned out to be an absolutely delightful ‘small’ city in Spain, with lots amazing sights and food.

    No so many photos as we slept a lot today, but tomorrow will see the back of the rain (we hope!), and the start of the walk!
    Les mer

  • Day 1: Vigo to Redondela

    4. mai 2024, Spania ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    Made it through Day 1 of walking! The rain was utterly relentless today.. but we were prepared .. a visit to Decathlon yesterday meant we had ponchos to make our day very much protected from the rain, and we were so thankful for them!

    It turns out rain in Spain doesn’t always fall on the plain!

    The walk itself was fabulous, a real mix of town, road and wilderness - always something to look at!

    We covered around 20k total distance through woods and up some very steep hills, but the kilometres and miles just fell away.

    An amazingly well timed coffee stop saved any ‘wildflower surveys’ and served some well needed empanadas!
    Les mer

  • Day 2: Redondela to Pontevedra

    5. mai 2024, Spania ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    Rain. Rain. Rain. Rain. Rain. Rain. Rain. Rain. Rain.

    Second day walking and we cracked out more than 20km today, passing the beautiful medieval town of ‘Arcade’ (no 80’s driving machines or pinball tables; sorry!) and on to Pontevedra.

    It’s a strange observation that the caminho way seems to bring you utterly horrible ways into towns with the industrial and medium density housing on the edge of the town being underwhelming. However, the centre of town is historic, beautiful and for my post arrival wander around town also … sunny! (We shan’t mention it too loudly, but it would be nice if it stayed!!).

    Michaela has booked us into a hostel tonight, and it’s a dorm with 22 people in it tonight for us! It’s kinda lovely sharing camaraderie with follow walkers, and we’ve met some really cool people.. but the queue for the machines is kinda annoying!

    So far I’m very impressed though, it’s clean, relatively quiet and very modern!

    A longer day tomorrow onwards to Caldas de Reis, which is a spa town, and we have various activities booked to keep spirits high!

    Ciao!
    Les mer

  • Day 3: Pontevedra to Caldas de Reis

    6. mai 2024, Spania ⋅ 🌙 13 °C

    Sun! Sun! Sun! Glorious Sun! Praise the sun!

    Yes, finally the weather broke and we saw the sky, and more importantly the sun again! It was glorious after multiple days of rain, more rain and rain.

    A trifling 22km today, which was a decent trek through the Galician countryside. Lots of vineyards and beautiful small towns. In fact, it was so glorious we totally didn’t register our only hill of the day (300m ascent) because we were enjoying the sunshine (and the company!) so much :)

    We stopped briefly at a prophetic sign ‘no complaints’ and kept that in mind as we ploughed on our way to Cladas de Reis.

    The hotel for tonight has the most amazing garden (complete with robot grass cutter).

    As a bit of a treat we had a very hot spa pool (it felt like 45deg) and a lovely massage - perfect for many days on the road :). A strange thing though - the spa was an old 40’s (or older) building and felt like it would have been an excellent setting for a horror film!

    The staff were all decked in white suits and the building had loads of long corridors with old wooden fixtures and, frankly, some ceramic things I couldn’t tell you what to do with! Alas, for you dear reader, we didn’t get committed, or electrocuted..

    Tomorrow we end up at Padrón (famous for the peppers) and within spitting distance of Santiago de Compostela (a mere 44km away now!).

    Michaela’s shin is giving her some jip, but we are in no rush, and it seems to be healing quickly, especially after the hot spa!

    Beijinhos, meus amigos!
    Les mer

  • Day 4: Caldas de Reis to Padrón(ish)

    7. mai 2024, Spania ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    A slight cheat with us grabbing a well deserved ‘rest’ day which sees us grab a bus to Vilagarcía and another on to Vilanova to catch a boat right back past where we started and nearly all the way to Padrón.

    Today was a good reminder that google doesn’t know where you are or how to get places 100% of the time with it getting bus times absolutely right but the actual bus stops completely wrong…. Some slight panic as we found out we were in the wrong place in Vilagarcia and that the bus stop was back where we’d just come from! Still … it all worked out (even if the bus drivers can ‘skip’ stops if they are late - how does that work in practice??)!

    Then on to an amazing boat ride up the river from the estuary, past mussel farms, cockle patches and a lot of religious crosses; until we get within 2km of Padrón. It might feel like cheating, but pilgrims used the boats a lot and it’s in the official guide as a suitable route so it COUNTS!

    Padrón is very small, very quaint and has no peppers until the summer - a big blow!

    Tomorrow is probably the hardest physical day for me, at 25km ( at least) to Santiago, all uphill and in some warm temperatures (27C). However I am very excited to reach the end of this adventure, and to be there with Michaela as she finishes nearly three solid weeks of walking, over 280km in total. I am very much in awe.

    I continue to be overwhelmed with the sense of camaraderie between fellow walkers; there are small kindnesses and obvious smiles everywhere you look, none more so than here in Padrón where the finish is in sight. It’s a beautiful thing, and maybe that’s what these pilgrimages are really all about, after all. Challenging yourself but also being aware of, and engaged with, the people around you whether you know them or otherwise.

    Besos y Buen Camiño a mis amigos!
    Les mer

  • Day 5: Santiago de Compostela

    8. mai 2024, Spania ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

    A very early start this morning to beat the heat - 6am! However we left just as the sun was coming up, and we are greeted with a beautiful pink sky!

    Even at that time in the morning there are plenty of peregrinos (pilgrims) on the road already, but it’s at least a little cooler and the trails less busy.

    The day was marked by watching the Camino waypoint markers’ km displays go down and down, with much excitement as we hit single figures then 5km and before we knew it - we’d done it!

    An amazingly organised system for collecting our certificates of distance (101km for me and 290km total for Michaela) and we are done with the walk!

    It was strangely emotional sitting in the plaza with all the hubbub and noise that you’d expect with so many people around, but yet you felt sort of ‘cocooned’ from the whole thing with a small moment of solace and a huge helping of gratitude. Hard to explain in words but it’s the closest I’ve come to feeling spiritual.

    Now for some well deserved r&r in Santiago before we head back to Porto to catch our flights home.

    Oh and wordle had a little reminder that this is a pilgrimage with today’s word on Wordle … pious!
    Les mer

  • Penultimate day

    10. mai 2024, Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    Leaving from Santiago back to Porto today so we are starting to realise that the walk is done and home is calling. 4 hours on the bus seemed like a drop in the ocean, and it was a little strange to see the places we’d walked past pop up so quickly on the bus route..

    It’s been a brilliant trip, with legs made from steel and walking very firmly planted in our future.

    Before we left Santiago de Compostela we managed to grab some early pics outside the cathedral when no one was around - amazing! We met a German lady, Heike, who had done the Camino 17 times! Crazy, but who knows maybe we’ll be that person taking photos for someone else, and sharing our own Camino stories…

    Once we leave Santiago, we have one last night in Porto to see the sunset and have a few glasses of Super Bock.

    We are also passing on our walking poles to someone else who’s attempting the Camino tomorrow - as they say - ‘the Camino provides’. I hope those poles go on to have a long and fruitful life up and down the coast.

    Beijinhos!
    Les mer

  • And we are heading home!

    11. mai 2024, Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    That’s it! All done! Weare on the plane now, heading back to the UK, courtesy of TAP.

    Enforced time offline is a good time to reflect on the trip as a whole and think over what I learnt, how I grew (as a person) and how I have challenged myself.

    So what did I learn? That I can walk multiple days without injury and even the minor niggles are totally manageable. That I enjoy doing very long walks, although I suspect having a certificate at the end to celebrate is, undeniably, a factor!

    Realising that things, especially on the continent, aren’t always what they seem on the surface. So many places we stayed or ate at had such disheveled outsides but incredible interiors, and that growing sense of ‘oh no’ can be dispelled until you’ve really experienced it!

    That I need to listen to my body - I really do get ‘hangry’ and when tired can be very irritable (and irritating) and to acknowledge that and actively addressing it when it happens.

    That Michaela and I can have amazing moments working as a team; those are moments to cherish and hold on to.

    Challenges; oh so many! Keeping a positive mindset even when you have 25km to walk in the driving rain. Pushing the feet one foot in front of another despite the body really wanting a long rest.

    Not a learning point, but this trip has been good confirmation that I still really love Portugal, the people are helpful, funny, enthusiastic and generally so very effervescent. It’s a place that I’ve grown very fond of and I’ll take more effort to learn (and use) the language - thanks for bearing with me Portugal!

    Anyway it’s for now I sign off and say ‘Adeus’, but maybe it would be more appropriate to say ‘Até já’ (see you soon!)

    Beijinhos meus amigos!
    Xxx
    Les mer